That's about 10 years later now. Good job. Just did on my LTZ 2006 both left and right seals. After watching some videos for the right side axle seal, I found that mine is different. My right shaft tube does not have any electrical connections to unplug. It is a simple straight tube and the axle with the O - ring inside. This axle just longer than left side one. The removal is the same. Bang, bang and it comes out. No spring or washers to watch out for like the shaft tube with electrical sensor connection. Perhaps my electrical sensor connection is somewhere and not on this shaft tube. Just feeling good that I was able to do it. Thank you to all who take their time to post these DIY videos.
to remove the drivers side axle, I used a plastic tree felling wedge. Available at most hardware stores in the chainsaw area for about 5 dollars. I just put the wedge between the axle flange and the transaxle housing. Just a couple taps with a 2 pound hammer and it popped loose.
I used this method and it worked great. I had to trim my wedge about a 1/4" because the angle wasn't steep enough, but just like described, couple of taps and it popped free.
This is one of the best and clearest videos I've seen on this subject, thank you very much, I wish more people would follow your example. Thank you very much!
Thank You for this video. I replaced the Left Axle Seal this past weekend with the aid of this video! A couple of tips that worked for me. I used 2 tree felling wedges (as suggested in the comments section) and worked like a charm. I also put the new axle seal in the freezer overnight. Not sure if the freezing was the reason why, but the seal install was much less painful than my past experiences. thx again
This video was extremely helpful for me. Very professionally done. You provided all the information I needed and more to perform this job with ease. Thanks for the Torque specs as well.
I went ahead and tried it. Got the shaft out fine. I did have to remove both the stabilizer bar and tie rod to get the drive shaft out of the way. In doing all that, I tore the dust boot on the upper ball joint, so that's the next item to tackle. My seal looks a little different than yours, but I did get it installed and the shaft back in the case. Everything turns like it should. Thanks for your help, keep making great videos!
Thank you for a most complete video including the torque specifications and the minute observations. Since my local parts store has a tool loaner program I decided to go the slide hammer approach (I couldn't find my steel wedge I usually have for things like this). I welded two 5/8-18 nuts to a 1/2-13 coupler. The slide hammer had 5/8-18 male. I then used a 24" piece of 1/2-13 threaded rod to pass through the wheel hub and attach to the puller bracket. With the truck on stands I used the jack to raise the wheel hub to be nearly concentric with the differential. With a couple of slide actions the output flange stub came out. My local shop quoted me $450 for this job.
I just did my seal on my 98 k2500. I removed the sway bay link, ( both need replacing anyway) removed the axel, then tried prying with a pry bar. I didn't like prying on the aluminum housing, so I used a hammer and a small piece of wood and hammered on the axel flange while turning the flange. It took a little time, but it came out. The c clip was still on the axel, but looked good. Replaced the seal, being very careful tapping in the new seal, and all went back together well. I have good ground clearance, so I didn't even jack up the truck. Took about 3 hours. Now I am off for an inspection sticker. Thanks for the good video and info!!
Brad Davies read your comment on changing you axle seal. You said the c clip stayed on the axle, was is still "tough" tapping it out? Also, how is it doing? Any leaking, is it still good?
It took a little work, but it did come out. I did notice the seal was still leaking about a month later, witch tells me that the axel itself had worn a grove where the seal makes contact with the axel. I have since traded the truck in, as a lifter was sticking and I didn't want to remove the intake manifold to replace the lifter. Good luck with your project.
i was in the waiting room at the chevrolet dealer when another customer was being quoted the estimate to change both seals. I don't remember the number but it was attention getting. On my 2002 I was surprised to discover that the steering column does not lock ( at 9:00 or so you mention turning the key to allow the steering wheel to turn) maybe that is a difference between canadian and us models. Keep up the good work, I really enjoy the content and the production quality of your videos.
Thank you my friend!. My lifted 99 tahoe with plow actually snapped the flange off the shaft. That was interesting trying to get the axle out without something to tap or pry against. Anyway, my c clip stayed in the diff as well and spun like it was in a groove so I wasn't sure if I had to try to get it out or not. Your video gave me peace of mind to leave it and tap it back together. Thanks again... Danner
Oh James, I'm honored to have you visit my humble channel. I watch your feed all the time, you've got an excellent, practical channel full of good teaching advice.
I wondered if that would work. When I did the axle seal on the right side, shown in another video, the way you describe is the way I did it. On this side I followed the dealers manual guide, which suggests doing it this way. The reason I chose a longer method was because I knew the C-clip would be a problem and I wanted plenty of room to work with. But it's nice to hear from somebody who was able to get it done a quicker way. Thanks!
Your demonstration was excellent. You were very helpful in your explanations and easy to follow. It looks like a fairly reasonable job to do for an average ability mechanic to do. A huge thank you for your willing to share your knowledge.
Excellent posting! My '06 2500HD looks to be needing this seal. I know it's a different diff, but I can see that the procedure is the same. It'll be MUCH easier when I get down to it. Thank you!
Very good video . You explained every move in detail . It will make my job of changing out the left side seal on my Envoy much easier ! Thank you for such an informative video .
smooth camera work, transitions, editing in general. i enjoy workin on my truck and watching others work on similar Chevy truck models, even if i know i wouldn't be able to do the same repair/service.
Nice job Dave! Yeah, those c-clips can be a PITA. I sure am glad to see you use some grease on the splines of your axle before you slid it in. There are so many of these videos out there where guys will just slide them in dry. I had one axle where the splines were totally rusted together. That joker took me about seven hours of penetrating oil, puller, impact wrench, etc. just to get the splines to separate. Not a bit of grease on there. Keep up the good work!
as for the RTV Blue...I did the same thing on a rear axle seal for the same reason. First go around I didn't use it and the next week I was back in it. For such a small scratch it still leaked. After a thin coat of RTV, 156k hard miles later....still no leak. Let them say what they want. It works. I did polish it a little with emory cloth as well prior to application.
Two thumbs WAY up!!! I rented a sliding hammer to pull my inner axle but it was too long to work. I watched your video and when you demonstrated tapping the axle flange adapter for the sliding hammer (the base part of the slide, not the axle itself) I tried it and it came off in 4 easy taps. Piece of cake!! Thank you so much for your video :D
I cant thank you enough for this video. You saved me a couple hundred dollars. I too did this without removing the CV from the hub. Yeah it woulda allowed more room but it saved me a trip to the dreaded dealership.
Great video; super helpful. Job is less complicated than I thought. I have the factory shop manual for 89 3500K but this video completes all the information I have. Thanks
Thanks for the video you just inspired me to do mine. Long over due and getting sick of adding fluid and cleaning up drip marks from the driveway. Thanks and keep them coming.
Kenric The whole time I'm thinking, "Sounds like Jordan B. Petersen doing a how-to on drivetrain, two of my 3 favorite world's meet!" Haha your comment made my day!
I rarely subscribe to anyone but your vids are so well done. No nonsense and simple without leaving out details. I love videos that say "today we will rebuild our small block. Disconnect the battery cables. Pull engine. Rebuild. Replace engine. Reconnect cables. ". Well thanks for details? Lol! I have a 97 blazer and I was hesitant to get into this one until I saw your video. I know anything involving axles can be problematic and usually requires tools borrowed from NASA. Seeing your videos makes me feel way better about this one. I have no doubt I can handle this. Thanks for the great video! Keep it up. P.s. Do u have any videos on how to keep a woman happy?
Ha ha, very funny. My wife keeps telling me I should post a vid of how I dye her hair in the garage (grin). Not happening. Thanks for the vote of confidence, and good luck with your project! One of the problems with DIY auto repair is the unexpected complication, like a stripped screw head, a broken or crossthreaded bolt, or a broken plastic part. When things go well, repairs can look deceptively easy. I wish I could reassure people it won't happen to them....
Awesome video mate, thanks a lot! It definitely helped me to identify the tasks and buy the right tools. Now all I have to do is wait until the bearings and seals arrive. Oh yes I also may have to replace the bearings...I already feel freeplay on both axle shafts. Cheers! P.S. the torque specs you mentioned were a nice touch!
Thanks for the video. My son just wobbled my 98 z71 home. The driver's side wheel is at almost a 45 degree angle. Not sure how he even got it home. The cv boot at the wheel has grease all over the place and you can see separation at the back plate. Probably a good chance I will have to replace the wheel/hub assembly as well. It's ugly. I've never replaced a CV axle before but your video makes it look very straight forward. Thanks!
Awesome Job!!! You've found your calling, thanks for the great info. It's one thing to be mechanically inclined and another to have have experience. Couldn't have the latter without good people like yourself!!!
Thank you. It's at the age now where things are going wrong, making it fertile ground for lots of repair videos (grin). Why would anybody want a new car when you can have so much more fun with older vehicles....
Thanks for the video, very helpful. You must be a nurse or Paramedic. I've never heard a mechanic use the word patent describing a unobstructed breather. "Clear" is the word most commonly used but I knew what you were saying.
very very good video thank you I get to do that to one of my buddies trucks here in a couple of weeks now I know how to do it thank you again and I feel for you laying on the ground doing that
Finished the seal replacement. There is an "improved" seal the dealership sold me that looks a lot more robust than the old one. Job went smooth. Thanks Again!!!
Great, thanks for the followup. Interestingly, one viewer mentioned that his parts supplier was selling a seal that needed to be installed 'backwards' compared to the OEM seal. His seal was labelled that way. I used a NAPA seal that looked identical to the original and it went in the same way as the original.
Enjoy your videos. Keep em coming as it saves time and money when I can do the work myself and at my leisure. Would love to see front differential replacement on a 2500hd in the future as I may have to replace mine soon. Thanks again
Good job man, your Video was just what I needed. The Chiltons manual says to pry it off with a large screwdriver or two. We all know that it's not good to get crazy a pullin & a pryin against an aluminum housing of any kind. And it sure doesn't come out as easy as the book makes it sound. Great Vid! Thanks!
As you know you are planning a much more extensive repair, one that would be popular here on youtube if you take the time to film it. Thanks for your comments here, they improve the depth of the thread. Good luck!
This is the best video by far on this. I'm changing the bearing behind that seal while I'm there though - I picked up that info from other video's... I had to buy the hammer/bearing puller like yours for the bearing and probably have to take a couple more things apart to enable the straight pull. Doing this myself will more than pay for my new puller :{ ) Thanks for posting - Was very helpful
@@spelunkerd You might not want to see it, as I'm currently limbering up the courage with a couple Rum & Cokes (not a sponsor) lol. I'll be getting at it right away though, and will share any Highlights if warranted - I'm pretty sure you nailed it though , and won't need to add. Cheers & Enjoy Your Weekend bud !!!
@@spelunkerd Ran into problem with my stabilizer bolt not able to be removed unless I wanted to cut it or take apart ball joints.Mine were different with bolt from top and nut on bottom with no clearance to remove. I changed the seal by just taking out six bolts. I tarp strapped out of the way and / like you gently tapped with a hammer - not kidding real easy and just a couple light taps as I turned it. pried seal out - bearing seemed ok after all so just left it in the end... Leak fixed after a good test drive A OK
Worked on 98 gmc suburban slt had to grind the frame down a little to slide the axle coming for the dif straight out and I didn’t have the socket for the axle in the hub so I didn’t take that off
mark bryant I use dexron and I've had no problem with it. Others on the 'net complain that it sometimes gums up, causing lots of issues. I think many of those problems are a consequence of overheating, and I wonder if dexron is particularly susceptible to formation of residue when overheated. However there are antioxidant properties that advertisers say is an advantage. If you do switch over, drain everything first to avoid incompatibility issues.
I have a 2001 Suburban 1500 and will be replacing the tube bearings and seal on the same side( there is significant play at the diff as well as lateral movement) so this video has been great in prepping for that job. Im toying with the idea of removing the entire front diff assembly from the truck and replacing both seals and bearings on the bench but I fear Ill lose my leverage advantage with it not being on the truck...
At 6:16 you get a good look at the vent tube, centered in a large plastic cap with a central 24mm hexagonal nut at the base. Some versions of the Chev diff are prone to leaking around the threads of that cap, and if yours is leaking then now would be a good time to remove the cap to seal those threads. It is often hard to tell if leaking oil is coming from the vent cover or the axle seal. I show how to reseal the vent cover in an updated video, here: th-cam.com/video/KvSysO3zQos/w-d-xo.html The cap needs to spin off to allow a peek at the diff gears when adjusting backlash and when painting gear patterns. So, any sealant applied to the plastic threads needs to be nondrying so you'll be able to get it off in the future. Never-drying silicone paste or teflon tape would be reasonable choices, but probably not silicone caulk.
Thanks very much for this video spelunkerd! I used it today as a reference while changing the seal on my 98 K1500. I also noticed that the snap ring remained inside the housing, so I assume that it's normal. I would just like to add that I had a lot of trouble pounding the shaft out. I found that tapping the shaft into the housing first freed up a bind in the snap ring and then it just popped right out. Thanks again!
I had the left front seal changed on my '99 yukon and within 4000 kilometers it is leaking worse than before. The dealer isn't responding to my concerns but after watching your video i will check the vent before pursuing any further with the dealer. Having work done at the dealers seems to be a shit show lately. I've had to return for three jobs not done properly on this vehicle.
If it leaks again within about 6 months I'd complain. I doubt most would warranty beyond a year. Check to be sure it is not overfilled, I'd have to check the service data for the exact fill level. Removing and sealing that vent plug is probably within the wheelhouse for most backyard mechanics.
Thanks Eric. I felt the same way when I first came to youtube! The guys who did those vids helped me a lot, and it was the driving force behind my effort to pass that on. What a huge difference a few years make, the knowledge base is huge now... What a great feeling, to be part of something that is larger than any one person.
Just wanted to say thx for making this video, u gave me the inspiration to change out both of my leaky seal on my 99 z-71. Although i will say im a lil scared of that cclip on the half shaft just bc i dont understand how it aligns to pull out half shaft.
I have to do this to my 08 Silverado. One video I saw to remove the Differential Case then place it on a bench to knock out the shaft. You did luck out on the C clip. Wish me luck.
Great video. I'm certainly going to give it a try. Looks a lot simpler than the RT side. And good to note that I should get the slide puller before attempting.
I'm glad you liked it. The repair is pretty easy if you have the right tools and safely take your time. I did the passenger side intermediate shaft seal on this vehicle, shown on my channel. The two sides are not identical but the principles are similar.
Thanks, I'm glad it helped. Many people have added remarks in this comments section, and some of those comments are worth scrolling through, too. Good luck!
great video! Thank you for adding all the info on the TSB's as well. I read those often and its great you include all those helpful hints that I guarantee would drive me crazy as I was doing this. I just hope I can keep as calm as you! haha.
@Dave FYI the axle ratios are the same (they have to be) front and rear but if you have a limited slip rear you must use full synthetic for the limited slip clutches to work per GM. Mine takes 75W90 full synthetic in the rear (I have 373 limited slip) and 80W90 reg gear oil in the front of my 2001 Suburban.
A few viewers have noted that they were able to remove the axle seal without removing the CV axle or the wheel. If it works you'll save time, though it may be a little harder to maneuver with the axle in the way. The way I did it is the way the dealers manual explains how to do the job. However it wouldn't be the first time that techs found a time-saving short cut not mentioned in the manual.
Probably, I'm not sure. I use Alldata, but whether you use Mitchells, Alldata, or an ebay copy of your dealers manual, it would be wise to check that out first. Have a close look at the CV joints as well. Sloppy movement of those joints could cause your seal to leak. Good luck!
Yeah, I know what you mean. I thought about installing a lift in my garage but I would have had to lift the roof to do it. Not worth it. Thanks for watching!
Very nicely done, I would have liked to know if you put anti-seize on thew flange bolts or locktite. I just did mine and used anti-sieze. Thank you for the clear instructions. Good job!
+Jon Bradley Yeah, those are good thoughts. I don't remember if I used antiseize or locktite there, probably didn't bother. As I recall, there was surprisingly little corrosion after so many years. I still drive the vehicle today, having just crossed the 350,000 km mark.
Definitely a great vid. God thing you don't have a 2500/3500, those inner left axles more often than not get stuck, then break off and you have to take the diff off and split the case to push the rest of the shaft out.
If the offset shaft retaining pin stayed in and is tangled can fish it out and put the new on the shaft and put it or does the ring have to be in the transfer case already
You can't do that because the diameter of the steel plate that bolts to the CV axle is too large to slip the seal over it. If you want to avoid having to remove the hub, I would take the vent cover off and seal that first, to see if the leak goes away. I show how to remove the plastic vent cover in the followup video linked in the video description.
6 years later, your video is still helping people like me fix their 13 year old trucks! (both axle seals are leaking in my '06 Avalanche)
That's about 10 years later now. Good job. Just did on my LTZ 2006 both left and right seals. After watching some videos for the right side axle seal, I found that mine is different. My right shaft tube does not have any electrical connections to unplug. It is a simple straight tube and the axle with the O - ring inside. This axle just longer than left side one. The removal is the same. Bang, bang and it comes out. No spring or washers to watch out for like the shaft tube with electrical sensor connection. Perhaps my electrical sensor connection is somewhere and not on this shaft tube. Just feeling good that I was able to do it. Thank you to all who take their time to post these DIY videos.
to remove the drivers side axle, I used a plastic tree felling wedge. Available at most hardware stores in the chainsaw area for about 5 dollars. I just put the wedge between the axle flange and the transaxle housing. Just a couple taps with a 2 pound hammer and it popped loose.
I used this method and it worked great. I had to trim my wedge about a 1/4" because the angle wasn't steep enough, but just like described, couple of taps and it popped free.
Glad to hear it, thanks for the followup.
burpton that's BRILLIANT! THANK YOU! Now for an easy blind bearing removal!
Thanks for the info
Excellent tip!
This is one of the best and clearest videos I've seen on this subject, thank you very much, I wish more people would follow your example. Thank you very much!
Thank You for this video. I replaced the Left Axle Seal this past weekend with the aid of this video! A couple of tips that worked for me. I used 2 tree felling wedges (as suggested in the comments section) and worked like a charm. I also put the new axle seal in the freezer overnight. Not sure if the freezing was the reason why, but the seal install was much less painful than my past experiences. thx again
TH-cam at its very best. Excellent instructional, thank you sir.
Thanks!
This video was extremely helpful for me. Very professionally done. You provided all the information I needed and more to perform this job with ease. Thanks for the Torque specs as well.
Thanks for the video! Will be swapping axles and hubs soon... it's good to know I've identified all the parts down there correctly!
I went ahead and tried it. Got the shaft out fine. I did have to remove both the stabilizer bar and tie rod to get the drive shaft out of the way. In doing all that, I tore the dust boot on the upper ball joint, so that's the next item to tackle. My seal looks a little different than yours, but I did get it installed and the shaft back in the case. Everything turns like it should.
Thanks for your help, keep making great videos!
Thank you for a most complete video including the torque specifications and the minute observations. Since my local parts store has a tool loaner program I decided to go the slide hammer approach (I couldn't find my steel wedge I usually have for things like this). I welded two 5/8-18 nuts to a 1/2-13 coupler. The slide hammer had 5/8-18 male. I then used a 24" piece of 1/2-13 threaded rod to pass through the wheel hub and attach to the puller bracket. With the truck on stands I used the jack to raise the wheel hub to be nearly concentric with the differential. With a couple of slide actions the output flange stub came out. My local shop quoted me $450 for this job.
I just did my seal on my 98 k2500. I removed the sway bay link, ( both need replacing anyway) removed the axel, then tried prying with a pry bar. I didn't like prying on the aluminum housing, so I used a hammer and a small piece of wood and hammered on the axel flange while turning the flange. It took a little time, but it came out. The c clip was still on the axel, but looked good. Replaced the seal, being very careful tapping in the new seal, and all went back together well. I have good ground clearance, so I didn't even jack up the truck. Took about 3 hours. Now I am off for an inspection sticker. Thanks for the good video and info!!
Brad Davies read your comment on changing you axle seal. You said the c clip stayed on the axle, was is still "tough" tapping it out? Also, how is it doing? Any leaking, is it still good?
It took a little work, but it did come out. I did notice the seal was still leaking about a month later, witch tells me that the axel itself had worn a grove where the seal makes contact with the axel. I have since traded the truck in, as a lifter was sticking and I didn't want to remove the intake manifold to replace the lifter. Good luck with your project.
i was in the waiting room at the chevrolet dealer when another customer was being quoted the estimate to change both seals. I don't remember the number but it was attention getting. On my 2002 I was surprised to discover that the steering column does not lock ( at 9:00 or so you mention turning the key to allow the steering wheel to turn) maybe that is a difference between canadian and us models. Keep up the good work, I really enjoy the content and the production quality of your videos.
Thank you my friend!. My lifted 99 tahoe with plow actually snapped the flange off the shaft. That was interesting trying to get the axle out without something to tap or pry against. Anyway, my c clip stayed in the diff as well and spun like it was in a groove so I wasn't sure if I had to try to get it out or not. Your video gave me peace of mind to leave it and tap it back together. Thanks again... Danner
Oh James, I'm honored to have you visit my humble channel. I watch your feed all the time, you've got an excellent, practical channel full of good teaching advice.
I wondered if that would work. When I did the axle seal on the right side, shown in another video, the way you describe is the way I did it. On this side I followed the dealers manual guide, which suggests doing it this way. The reason I chose a longer method was because I knew the C-clip would be a problem and I wanted plenty of room to work with. But it's nice to hear from somebody who was able to get it done a quicker way. Thanks!
Noticed mine is leaking today while changing my engine oil. Thanks for posting this video-it is now on my "to do" list.
Let us know how it turns out, thanks for the reply.
Your demonstration was excellent. You were very helpful in your explanations and easy to follow. It looks like a fairly reasonable job to do for an average ability mechanic to do. A huge thank you for your willing to share your knowledge.
Thank you.
Thank you for an excellent and detailed video! Replacing my CV shaft and seal in a few days, this was very helpful!
My little brother just paid 325.00 to repair his passenger side. well worth the price. Thanks for the knowledge.
Excellent posting! My '06 2500HD looks to be needing this seal. I know it's a different diff, but I can see that the procedure is the same. It'll be MUCH easier when I get down to it. Thank you!
Very good video . You explained every move in detail . It will make my job of changing out the left side seal on my Envoy much easier ! Thank you for such an informative video .
Perfect instructional video. I appreciated you giving a tour of the front end while under there. Thank you so much
smooth camera work, transitions, editing in general. i enjoy workin on my truck and watching others work on similar Chevy truck models, even if i know i wouldn't be able to do the same repair/service.
Thank you, Terry. Last week I watched Briansmobile1 do an axle that would NOT come free of the knuckle. What a pain.
Nice job Dave! Yeah, those c-clips can be a PITA. I sure am glad to see you use some grease on the splines of your axle before you slid it in. There are so many of these videos out there where guys will just slide them in dry. I had one axle where the splines were totally rusted together. That joker took me about seven hours of penetrating oil, puller, impact wrench, etc. just to get the splines to separate. Not a bit of grease on there. Keep up the good work!
Just noticed tonite I have a left front seal leaking on my 06 Sierra, which is why I was looking here. Great video - thanks for the help!
Thanks, let us know how it works out.
My 2000 went bad last week. Thanks for the preview of my near future! Well done, i might add.
as for the RTV Blue...I did the same thing on a rear axle seal for the same reason. First go around I didn't use it and the next week I was back in it. For such a small scratch it still leaked. After a thin coat of RTV, 156k hard miles later....still no leak. Let them say what they want. It works. I did polish it a little with emory cloth as well prior to application.
My little brother just paid 325.00 to repair his passenger side. well worth the price. Thanks for the knowledge..
Two thumbs WAY up!!! I rented a sliding hammer to pull my inner axle but it was too long to work. I watched your video and when you demonstrated tapping the axle flange adapter for the sliding hammer (the base part of the slide, not the axle itself) I tried it and it came off in 4 easy taps. Piece of cake!! Thank you so much for your video :D
What a kind remark, thank you.
Very well filmed & narrated video thank you very much!
Excellent vid, proper lighting, shows all relevant info and sequence, give approx torque. Everything most of the other vids didn't have.
Thanks, man.
I cant thank you enough for this video. You saved me a couple hundred dollars. I too did this without removing the CV from the hub. Yeah it woulda allowed more room but it saved me a trip to the dreaded dealership.
Great video; super helpful. Job is less complicated than I thought. I have the factory shop manual for 89 3500K but this video completes all the information I have. Thanks
Thanks for the video you just inspired me to do mine. Long over due and getting sick of adding fluid and cleaning up drip marks from the driveway.
Thanks and keep them coming.
Kevin Frost Thanks, man!
had to remove both stablizer links to create enough room for the cv shaft removal on my 2010 silverado ....very good video thx
Thanks for the video , great vocabulary also !
It's a rarity to find big words and greasy hands in the same person :)
Thanks.
Kenric The whole time I'm thinking, "Sounds like Jordan B. Petersen doing a how-to on drivetrain, two of my 3 favorite world's meet!" Haha your comment made my day!
I rarely subscribe to anyone but your vids are so well done. No nonsense and simple without leaving out details. I love videos that say "today we will rebuild our small block. Disconnect the battery cables. Pull engine. Rebuild. Replace engine. Reconnect cables. ".
Well thanks for details? Lol!
I have a 97 blazer and I was hesitant to get into this one until I saw your video. I know anything involving axles can be problematic and usually requires tools borrowed from NASA.
Seeing your videos makes me feel way better about this one. I have no doubt I can handle this.
Thanks for the great video! Keep it up.
P.s. Do u have any videos on how to keep a woman happy?
Ha ha, very funny. My wife keeps telling me I should post a vid of how I dye her hair in the garage (grin). Not happening.
Thanks for the vote of confidence, and good luck with your project! One of the problems with DIY auto repair is the unexpected complication, like a stripped screw head, a broken or crossthreaded bolt, or a broken plastic part. When things go well, repairs can look deceptively easy. I wish I could reassure people it won't happen to them....
Awesome video mate, thanks a lot! It definitely helped me to identify the tasks and buy the right tools. Now all I have to do is wait until the bearings and seals arrive. Oh yes I also may have to replace the bearings...I already feel freeplay on both axle shafts. Cheers! P.S. the torque specs you mentioned were a nice touch!
Thanks for the video. My son just wobbled my 98 z71 home. The driver's side wheel is at almost a 45 degree angle. Not sure how he even got it home. The cv boot at the wheel has grease all over the place and you can see separation at the back plate. Probably a good chance I will have to replace the wheel/hub assembly as well. It's ugly. I've never replaced a CV axle before but your video makes it look very straight forward. Thanks!
Great video and no annoying background music for a change. Two thumbs up!
Yes, I know what you mean, Thank you.
Great work. Doing something like that, especially if there are complications, leads to wisdom that is hard to measure. Thanks for the update.
Awesome Job!!! You've found your calling, thanks for the great info. It's one thing to be mechanically inclined and another to have have experience. Couldn't have the latter without good people like yourself!!!
Thanks, You just saved me a ton of work. My passenger side is leaking plus I need to replace the half shaft as well on my 2003 Silverado.
Thank you. It's at the age now where things are going wrong, making it fertile ground for lots of repair videos (grin). Why would anybody want a new car when you can have so much more fun with older vehicles....
This is a great video. Well done. Not only did it help me, but it was enjoyable to watch.
Thanks, man!
Thanks for the video, very helpful. You must be a nurse or Paramedic. I've never heard a mechanic use the word patent describing a unobstructed breather. "Clear" is the word most commonly used but I knew what you were saying.
very very good video thank you I get to do that to one of my buddies trucks here in a couple of weeks now I know how to do it thank you again and I feel for you laying on the ground doing that
thank you you saved my friend alot of money me and him got it done quick cause we didnt have to go through trial and error process
I'm glad it helped, thanks for the feedback.
It's great to have feedback that the faster option works here. Thanks for your contribution to the thread.
Thanks for the vid. I was going to take mine to a garage, but I can handle the job after seeing your video. Thanks !!!!!
I'm glad it helped. Good luck!
Finished the seal replacement. There is an "improved" seal the dealership sold me that looks a lot more robust than the old one. Job went smooth. Thanks Again!!!
Great, thanks for the followup. Interestingly, one viewer mentioned that his parts supplier was selling a seal that needed to be installed 'backwards' compared to the OEM seal. His seal was labelled that way. I used a NAPA seal that looked identical to the original and it went in the same way as the original.
Thanks for adding that, it helps others and improves the thread. I'm looking forward to watching (grin).
Enjoy your videos. Keep em coming as it saves time and money when I can do the work myself and at my leisure. Would love to see front differential replacement on a 2500hd in the future as I may have to replace mine soon. Thanks again
Thanks. Unfortunately my front diff is working fine (grin). You should turn on the video camera when you do yours, ha ha.
great video, I'm doing this job on my 2011 truck in a day or so, thanks
Good job man, your Video was just what I needed. The Chiltons manual says to pry it off with a large screwdriver or two. We all know that it's not good to get crazy a pullin & a pryin against an aluminum housing of any kind. And it sure doesn't come out as easy as the book makes it sound. Great Vid! Thanks!
You can use a 2x4 and place it against the flange and tap it out with a hammer. Same concept that he illustrated in the video, just different tools.
As you know you are planning a much more extensive repair, one that would be popular here on youtube if you take the time to film it. Thanks for your comments here, they improve the depth of the thread. Good luck!
This is the best video by far on this. I'm changing the bearing behind that seal while I'm there though - I picked up that info from other video's... I had to buy the hammer/bearing puller like yours for the bearing and probably have to take a couple more things apart to enable the straight pull. Doing this myself will more than pay for my new puller :{ ) Thanks for posting - Was very helpful
Great! Pay it forward and video your effort, it is rewarding to contribute to the general knowledge base. You never know where this can lead, ha ha.
@@spelunkerd You might not want to see it, as I'm currently limbering up the courage with a couple Rum & Cokes (not a sponsor) lol. I'll be getting at it right away though, and will share any Highlights if warranted - I'm pretty sure you nailed it though , and won't need to add. Cheers & Enjoy Your Weekend bud !!!
@@spelunkerd Ran into problem with my stabilizer bolt not able to be removed unless I wanted to cut it or take apart ball joints.Mine were different with bolt from top and nut on bottom with no clearance to remove. I changed the seal by just taking out six bolts. I tarp strapped out of the way and / like you gently tapped with a hammer - not kidding real easy and just a couple light taps as I turned it. pried seal out - bearing seemed ok after all so just left it in the end... Leak fixed after a good test drive A OK
very well done.. the video.. you narrated it very well. i have a'89 chev silverado, and im thinking about doing an axle re/re myself.
KyleCarrington Thanks, man. The tricky part is the snap ring inside the diff. Hopefully it slides out for you, without difficulty.
Worked on 98 gmc suburban slt had to grind the frame down a little to slide the axle coming for the dif straight out and I didn’t have the socket for the axle in the hub so I didn’t take that off
yer video is done very well is to fallow with clear explanation of changing the seal.. thanks much ..
I have a 96 suburban everyone told me to use dexron for my fluid.good video.
mark bryant I use dexron and I've had no problem with it. Others on the 'net complain that it sometimes gums up, causing lots of issues. I think many of those problems are a consequence of overheating, and I wonder if dexron is particularly susceptible to formation of residue when overheated. However there are antioxidant properties that advertisers say is an advantage. If you do switch over, drain everything first to avoid incompatibility issues.
Thank you so much for this upload of information.
Great video! Thank you so much for taking the time to make it and help people.
I have a 2001 Suburban 1500 and will be replacing the tube bearings and seal on the same side( there is significant play at the diff as well as lateral movement) so this video has been great in prepping for that job. Im toying with the idea of removing the entire front diff assembly from the truck and replacing both seals and bearings on the bench but I fear Ill lose my leverage advantage with it not being on the truck...
Great instructional video. I’ll be doing mine this week
At 6:16 you get a good look at the vent tube, centered in a large plastic cap with a central 24mm hexagonal nut at the base. Some versions of the Chev diff are prone to leaking around the threads of that cap, and if yours is leaking then now would be a good time to remove the cap to seal those threads. It is often hard to tell if leaking oil is coming from the vent cover or the axle seal. I show how to reseal the vent cover in an updated video, here: th-cam.com/video/KvSysO3zQos/w-d-xo.html The cap needs to spin off to allow a peek at the diff gears when adjusting backlash and when painting gear patterns. So, any sealant applied to the plastic threads needs to be nondrying so you'll be able to get it off in the future. Never-drying silicone paste or teflon tape would be reasonable choices, but probably not silicone caulk.
Thanks very much for this video spelunkerd! I used it today as a reference while changing the seal on my 98 K1500. I also noticed that the snap ring remained inside the housing, so I assume that it's normal. I would just like to add that I had a lot of trouble pounding the shaft out. I found that tapping the shaft into the housing first freed up a bind in the snap ring and then it just popped right out. Thanks again!
Good point!
I had the left front seal changed on my '99 yukon and within 4000 kilometers it is leaking worse than before. The dealer isn't responding to my concerns but after watching your video i will check the vent before pursuing any further with the dealer. Having work done at the dealers seems to be a shit show lately. I've had to return for three jobs not done properly on this vehicle.
If it leaks again within about 6 months I'd complain. I doubt most would warranty beyond a year. Check to be sure it is not overfilled, I'd have to check the service data for the exact fill level. Removing and sealing that vent plug is probably within the wheelhouse for most backyard mechanics.
Very helpful! Thank you so much for publishing this, great tips!
Awesome video! I really appreciate all your vids. Guys like you are empowering people like never before. Thanks for what you do!
Thanks Eric. I felt the same way when I first came to youtube! The guys who did those vids helped me a lot, and it was the driving force behind my effort to pass that on. What a huge difference a few years make, the knowledge base is huge now... What a great feeling, to be part of something that is larger than any one person.
Amazing. Thank you, very much for this well articulated instruction.
So helpful! Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I have to do the outer bearings on an 03 very soon.
Thank you for the feedback, Jordan.
Just wanted to say thx for making this video, u gave me the inspiration to change out both of my leaky seal on my 99 z-71. Although i will say im a lil scared of that cclip on the half shaft just bc i dont understand how it aligns to pull out half shaft.
I have to do this to my 08 Silverado. One video I saw to remove the Differential Case then place it on a bench to knock out the shaft. You did luck out on the C clip. Wish me luck.
Great video. I'm certainly going to give it a try. Looks a lot simpler than the RT side. And good to note that I should get the slide puller before attempting.
You explained it very well and you did a great job on your video, thanks.... Keep up with the videos because they are very helpful to us all.
Thank u for such a detailed video your help was greatly appreciate it
Great video. My passenger side CV boot just blew on me. This video is a great help.
I'm glad you liked it. The repair is pretty easy if you have the right tools and safely take your time. I did the passenger side intermediate shaft seal on this vehicle, shown on my channel. The two sides are not identical but the principles are similar.
thanks for this video... It helped to know what the mechanics will be replacing (seal). God bless.
You're welcome, thanks for the feedback.
Fantastic video - super helpful and precise....Great Job !
Awesome video. Thanks for taking the time to make it since it answered my questions and concerns.
+Dan R I'm glad it helped, thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for updating the thread here, and thanks for watching my humble videos.
Great job. I have this exact job needed on my truck and this was clear as to procedure and tips.
Thanks, I'm glad it helped. Many people have added remarks in this comments section, and some of those comments are worth scrolling through, too. Good luck!
appreciate the video, very informative and exactly the info I was looking for. have to say one of the better vids I seen
Thanks, man!
great video! Thank you for adding all the info on the TSB's as well. I read those often and its great you include all those helpful hints that I guarantee would drive me crazy as I was doing this. I just hope I can keep as calm as you! haha.
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@Dave FYI the axle ratios are the same (they have to be) front and rear but if you have a limited slip rear you must use full synthetic for the limited slip clutches to work per GM. Mine takes 75W90 full synthetic in the rear (I have 373 limited slip) and 80W90 reg gear oil in the front of my 2001 Suburban.
Yeah, it's a pretty simple repair. Have a look at the vent tube to be sure it is on securely and not blocked.
You did a fantastic job, very educational!!!! Well done👍
Thank you.
A few viewers have noted that they were able to remove the axle seal without removing the CV axle or the wheel. If it works you'll save time, though it may be a little harder to maneuver with the axle in the way. The way I did it is the way the dealers manual explains how to do the job. However it wouldn't be the first time that techs found a time-saving short cut not mentioned in the manual.
Great video. Planning on doing the seals on my 2010. I would imagine it's the same concept.
Probably, I'm not sure. I use Alldata, but whether you use Mitchells, Alldata, or an ebay copy of your dealers manual, it would be wise to check that out first. Have a close look at the CV joints as well. Sloppy movement of those joints could cause your seal to leak. Good luck!
Excellent videography. Thanks for taking the time to do it so well!!
Good vid I am sooo glad I have a 2 post lift don't miss working on the ground
Yeah, I know what you mean. I thought about installing a lift in my garage but I would have had to lift the roof to do it. Not worth it. Thanks for watching!
Thank you that was very informative I'm going to have to change out my seal also, lots of good points
Thanks very much for the time you took to do a great video.
Thanks. Aside from the C clip it was pretty straight forward. Thanks for watching, as always.
What do you do if the c clip doesn’t come out with it?
@@guyuntouchable4525 It didn't, watch from 5:50 to see what I did.
Very nicely done, I would have liked to know if you put anti-seize on thew flange bolts or locktite. I just did mine and used anti-sieze. Thank you for the clear instructions. Good job!
+Jon Bradley Yeah, those are good thoughts. I don't remember if I used antiseize or locktite there, probably didn't bother. As I recall, there was surprisingly little corrosion after so many years. I still drive the vehicle today, having just crossed the 350,000 km mark.
Thank you for the personal response. It's a very wonderful adventure after all. Please continue!
The exact video I wanted to see and the first that popped up on my search. Thank you very much.
Stephen, edm. Ab.
Definitely a great vid. God thing you don't have a 2500/3500, those inner left axles more often than not get stuck, then break off and you have to take the diff off and split the case to push the rest of the shaft out.
I'd be asking you what to do (grin). Nothing worse than getting part way into a job and realizing that you are over your head.
If the offset shaft retaining pin stayed in and is tangled can fish it out and put the new on the shaft and put it or does the ring have to be in the transfer case already
i am wondering if i can do this by just disconnecting the axel and not pulling it from the hub, to do just the seal
You can't do that because the diameter of the steel plate that bolts to the CV axle is too large to slip the seal over it. If you want to avoid having to remove the hub, I would take the vent cover off and seal that first, to see if the leak goes away. I show how to remove the plastic vent cover in the followup video linked in the video description.
Very well demonstrated, Thank you!
Thanks for the followup.
Thanks a lot. Probably saved me a couple hundred $.