We found the axle movement was caused by the bearing nut had backed off. It supports the splined end of the shaft and the inner Timken bearing. We adjusted the bearing nut by 3/4 turn and backed off two notches, then installed the seal deeper to keep the bearing retainer lock into the notch and the seal will now keep the bearing nut from loosening up. Rotation of the differential is going to back the nut off if the retainer is not held in the notch by the seal. Once we did this, no radial play in the axle, and the ring gear carrier is supported properly.
@@stianolson5578 No, the Timken bearing adjuster is right behind the seal. There is a metal tab that fit into the notches in the nut to keep it from rotating. The tab is on the front side of the housing. It sits loosely in a hole and lifting it out of the notch allows the nut to be adjusted. Then drive the seal back father than flush will keep the tab in the notch and the bearing nut can't rotate.
Support the truck from the center cross member and let the A frame drop down, move the axle forward then there is no need to remove anything but the axle flange bolts. The inner axle will pass by the CV joint and come out without taking all that stuff apart.
We found the axle movement was caused by the bearing nut had backed off. It supports the splined end of the shaft and the inner Timken bearing. We adjusted the bearing nut by 3/4 turn and backed off two notches, then installed the seal deeper to keep the bearing retainer lock into the notch and the seal will now keep the bearing nut from loosening up. Rotation of the differential is going to back the nut off if the retainer is not held in the notch by the seal. Once we did this, no radial play in the axle, and the ring gear carrier is supported properly.
Got a groaning like a wheel bearing on the front of my 2004 Tahoe 4wd. Seems to start around 20mph and gets louder as I go up in speed. Thing is whirring at highway speeds. My CV axles are torn up after 180k miles, and the passenger side is clicking and vibrating now, so both CV axles and wheel bearings up front are being replaced Saturday. This'll be my first time DIYing something like this. May as well change the diff fluid while I'm in there as I'm not sure it's been done, well, ever. Hoping this resolves the issue for me, but we'll see!
I was hoping this video would be helpful. I seen so many how to videos on replacing this bearing but non of them show it fixing the problem. I just wanted to make sure anyone attempting to do this repair knows there is a good chance it wont fix anything.
@@enriquesanchez7747 please let me know how it worked out and if it did list the parts used in your comment so I can order some myself as well as anyone else having this issue
@@PostalRedneck brother I was hoping you had a solution 😭😭😭 I’m tired of this I hate the feeling of being the guy who leaks fluid on driveways I can’t figure it out for the life of me
Hey I had the exact problem so what I did was I checked the rear differential and sure enough, it was shredded up. I couldn't believe the noise came from there cause I could also feel it on my left foot while driving and it sounded like front drivers side. After I put a used rear axle under the back that was still in good condition, problem was solved
Its funny how harmonics in a vehicle can send vibrations around making the noise sound like it coming from a different spot than where the problem is. I have been driving around for 3 years now and it hasnt gotten any worse but thats not to say the rear axle is not going out. I guess Ill find out as I bought a Denali and I plan to put this rear axle under it in the next few months so if it has the same problem the ill assume that it was the rear axle after all.
you don't need to remove the ball joint nuts or the spindle and brake assembly. Just remove the 6 bolts on the axle flange and the CV shaft will drop out of the way.
Your c ring has to be at 12 o’clock. Im not a mechanic but this happen to me on a 1997 silverado. I had to research the hell out of it. I found the tip on a mech that was repairing a Honda. I checked the adjuster on the differential on my chevy but that was solid. I found my seal was set in flush with the diff so i set it back more as much as i could before it hit the safety clip to the adjuster. I couldn’t reach the c ring clamp with my fingers so i used a long magnet to turn it to 12 o’clock so the tapered end of the shaft didn’t bind up when i reinstall it. That’s what the mech said it was doing if it wasn’t at 12 o’clock. Once i did, the shaft clicked right in. I gave it a lil tap with the hammer and it was all good. Don’t ask me why. I don’t know. I did so much research on it , i don’t remember what vid it was i seen it on. But i hope this works for whomever needs it. It worked for me.
Not sure what C ring you are talking about. Only one I can think of would be the one that holds the axle in and that can freely move so moving it to 12 oclock would not matter at all.
I think the spider gears are just worn out and creating all the slop in the front diff. I ran the truck for 3 years like theat and it never got worse but it would be nice if someone found a fix for it as I have talked to several people who have the same issue.
At 9:40 in the video you make the point of installing the needle bearing with the text facing inward. Is that per bearing manufactures install instruction or is there some rule when installing a bearing in a similar application?
I honestly cant remember how different both the text side and non text side looked but I do remember there being a slight difference and the factory one I pulled out had the text inward. If I had to guess the side with the text had a shallower wall to allow oil to get to the needle bearings.
So about a truck it needed wheel bearings then I didn't have the money to do them right away. The left hand CV axle rip the boot that went so I replaced the wheel bearings and that one axle but it's still has a little bit of noise. Almost like a axle noise. Sometimes it's full maneuvers and then when you're on throttle it's like a rattling noise. I don't know if the front end just worn out or maybe it's the bearings. There's definitely a lot of play and a lot of leak on both sides but the noises on the left I'm pretty sure... Also, is stupid all-wheel drive... Anyway, I have vibration and it's not at 70 so most likely it's a whole front diff right?... Since it's old, it might just be better to just throw a used one in there and replace the seals and bearings on the new used one. I don't know. Or maybe it's something else
The Tahoe and Yukon have a actuator that unlocks the front diff when not in 4x4. All wheel drives definitely get more wear and tare on them due to always moving so its a good chance you have a worn out front diff.
Im working on some of the same things i also had a bad shake/grinding noise coming out of the front and also had the front driver side differential seal leaking im sure but not 100% positive that my cv axle and my front hub is bad causeing my issues anyways seemed that way when i was checking it all out/takeing it all apart haven't got the truck back together yet as the hole front end is all and i mean all torn apart lmao im completely rebuilding the front end but my front driver side axle has more play then i would like it to and leaking also i was woundering from checking it out if where the axle splines slides into the spider gears on the inside seems to me that the spider gears ⚙️ might have to much play on the inside of that carrier on the short shaft axle causeing alot of slopp im going to be installing new outer bearings on both sides also i got new updated 2 pice seals im going to be installing so hopefully that takes care of some of my slop and my leak will just have to see how it goes i guess if im still haveing problems with it leaking ill rebuild the front differential if i have to as well its like whats one more thing when your rebuilding the hole damn truck lmao putting more money in this thing then what its worth but you just get tired of fixing one thing after another im a mechanic i do this for a living lmao last thing im trying to do is come home every weekend and turn wrenches on my own shit 😂 but you know how it goes maybe this will be of some help to you as your video was of some help to me
I never did end up finding a solution to the problem I was having with it. Never got any worse so I just let it be but im sure it has something to do with the spider gears possibly being worn out or something. Hope you got your truck back together and moving again.
All the teeth looked good but I never did check to see how they looked on the spider gears. It seems like all the play is on the bearing side of things though. When I move the axle around its moving around on the bearing.
O by the way I had my cv axle go bad from that bad bearing and still have not solved the vibration from many different tries. Next will be a whole new front differential.
Its crazy how many people are running into this problem and yet not one video on how to fix it. I have a front diff I think im going to try to take apart and figure out what the deal is with these things.
So brand new front differential and I’ve got a new vibration starting seems to be getting worse I’m really thinking about taking the cv axles out and front drive shaft and have a 2 wheel drive what would be your recommendation for that?
@@un_pinned on this style truck the CV axles actually hold the front wheel bearings together. You would have to replace your wheel bearings with two-wheel drive wheel bearings or GMT 900 bearings. I would try to do a tire rotation to see if that helps any
Hmm I’ll probably scratch that idea I’ve rotated the tires actually with no luck I’d really like to solve this issue is there anyway you can put a completely different front differential in or anyway I can get rid of that vibration it’s forsure coming out of the differential drivers side the one thing I haven’t tried is that wider bearing the 2010 number I believe have you tried that bearing?
Sadly about 2 weeks after installing the new bearing and seal it was already leaking again. I gave up and have been driving it like that ever sense with no real issue. I know a few other people local who have the same problem but no solution. Let me know if you find any as it would be nice to have a fix for this.
Never did end up fixing the problem and have been driving it now since then with no real issues other than it leaks and at around 80 mph I get a vibration coming from the left front. The fact that all four of my Tahoes and all three of my buddies Suburbans have the same problem I don't know what the fix would be. I wonder if the spider gears and the shaft splines after so many miles become so worn out that the shaft no longer holds true.
@@PostalRedneck I have a vibration pretty much at all speeds. No noise, just vibration. I'll probably just leave it alone. Otherwise it will be a total diff rebuild
@MOPEDMAN28 did you end up figuring it out? My poor 89 s10 has the same problem and its getting worse. I ordered seals and bearing at work thinking thatd fix it after i found the sloppy driver side inner axle. But now im second guessing myself
This is what everyone on a GMT800 forum is saying but I have yet to see a video proof of this to being true. Did you do this to your truck and did it fix it. If you have a link or something that would prove it I would work I would love to see it. Everyone keeps saying this is the fix but I think that notched ring is for preloading the carrier bearings.
I don’t have a video of us doing it. It is as I said in my first response, the center carrier bearing adjustment. So by taking up the slack you correct the timken bearing being loose and the axle support. It did fix it. The seal does not leak.
Well I may have to do another video on how to correct the issue. I currently have the axle out of the truck as the frame broke and I scarped it. I wanted to make sure this was the fix for the problem before I take apart a good spare. Thanks for letting me know hopefully ill have time some time this summer to do a video on it as im sure a bunch of people are having this same problem and no one has a fix for it.
We found the axle movement was caused by the bearing nut had backed off. It supports the splined end of the shaft and the inner Timken bearing. We adjusted the bearing nut by 3/4 turn and backed off two notches, then installed the seal deeper to keep the bearing retainer lock into the notch and the seal will now keep the bearing nut from loosening up. Rotation of the differential is going to back the nut off if the retainer is not held in the notch by the seal. Once we did this, no radial play in the axle, and the ring gear carrier is supported properly.
What do you mean by bearing nut? Do you have to split the diff to tighten it?
Im interested as well. I'll have to see if I can find a break down of the front diff to see if there is anything in there that they are referring too.
@@stianolson5578 No, the Timken bearing adjuster is right behind the seal. There is a metal tab that fit into the notches in the nut to keep it from rotating. The tab is on the front side of the housing. It sits loosely in a hole and lifting it out of the notch allows the nut to be adjusted. Then drive the seal back father than flush will keep the tab in the notch and the bearing nut can't rotate.
Support the truck from the center cross member and let the A frame drop down, move the axle forward then there is no need to remove anything but the axle flange bolts. The inner axle will pass by the CV joint and come out without taking all that stuff apart.
@@bradgustafson2805thank you!Do you think it’s worth while to replace the bearing still, or will just tightening it probably solve my problem?
exactly what i was looking for. thanks for the excellent video. 🤠
We found the axle movement was caused by the bearing nut had backed off. It supports the splined end of the shaft and the inner Timken bearing. We adjusted the bearing nut by 3/4 turn and backed off two notches, then installed the seal deeper to keep the bearing retainer lock into the notch and the seal will now keep the bearing nut from loosening up. Rotation of the differential is going to back the nut off if the retainer is not held in the notch by the seal. Once we did this, no radial play in the axle, and the ring gear carrier is supported properly.
Glad it helped!
Got a groaning like a wheel bearing on the front of my 2004 Tahoe 4wd. Seems to start around 20mph and gets louder as I go up in speed. Thing is whirring at highway speeds. My CV axles are torn up after 180k miles, and the passenger side is clicking and vibrating now, so both CV axles and wheel bearings up front are being replaced Saturday. This'll be my first time DIYing something like this. May as well change the diff fluid while I'm in there as I'm not sure it's been done, well, ever.
Hoping this resolves the issue for me, but we'll see!
Nice video hopefully it helps someone with the same issue.
Thanks. I hope so too.
I feel sorry for you dealing with all that rust. Most of the time that half shaft will pop right out.
@@MarkTorgusen I live in the Rust Belt so I'm kind of used to it at this point. Definitely not fun working around all that rust though that's for sure
Same gig 2016 silverottteno. Thanks for the video
Great even the next gens have the same issue.
Exactly the same thing for me I am glad I seen this video my deal is leaking and it seems like the same thing.
I was hoping this video would be helpful. I seen so many how to videos on replacing this bearing but non of them show it fixing the problem. I just wanted to make sure anyone attempting to do this repair knows there is a good chance it wont fix anything.
I’m having this same issue I’m fed up. I’m trying to change it again it doesn’t seem to gave much play with this new GM oem bearing but wish me luck
@@enriquesanchez7747 please let me know how it worked out and if it did list the parts used in your comment so I can order some myself as well as anyone else having this issue
@@PostalRedneck brother I was hoping you had a solution 😭😭😭 I’m tired of this I hate the feeling of being the guy who leaks fluid on driveways I can’t figure it out for the life of me
Hey I had the exact problem so what I did was I checked the rear differential and sure enough, it was shredded up. I couldn't believe the noise came from there cause I could also feel it on my left foot while driving and it sounded like front drivers side. After I put a used rear axle under the back that was still in good condition, problem was solved
Its funny how harmonics in a vehicle can send vibrations around making the noise sound like it coming from a different spot than where the problem is. I have been driving around for 3 years now and it hasnt gotten any worse but thats not to say the rear axle is not going out. I guess Ill find out as I bought a Denali and I plan to put this rear axle under it in the next few months so if it has the same problem the ill assume that it was the rear axle after all.
@@PostalRedneck did the bearing replacement fix the axle shaft wobble? Found my inner axle bearings waster hope it’s all it is..
you don't need to remove the ball joint nuts or the spindle and brake assembly. Just remove the 6 bolts on the axle flange and the CV shaft will drop out of the way.
You could be right. It would be awful difficult to slide hammer anything out with all the suspension still in the way but I'm sure it can be done.
just send it through the axle hole @@PostalRedneck
Your c ring has to be at 12 o’clock. Im not a mechanic but this happen to me on a 1997 silverado. I had to research the hell out of it. I found the tip on a mech that was repairing a Honda. I checked the adjuster on the differential on my chevy but that was solid. I found my seal was set in flush with the diff so i set it back more as much as i could before it hit the safety clip to the adjuster. I couldn’t reach the c ring clamp with my fingers so i used a long magnet to turn it to 12 o’clock so the tapered end of the shaft didn’t bind up when i reinstall it. That’s what the mech said it was doing if it wasn’t at 12 o’clock. Once i did, the shaft clicked right in. I gave it a lil tap with the hammer and it was all good. Don’t ask me why. I don’t know. I did so much research on it , i don’t remember what vid it was i seen it on. But i hope this works for whomever needs it. It worked for me.
Not sure what C ring you are talking about. Only one I can think of would be the one that holds the axle in and that can freely move so moving it to 12 oclock would not matter at all.
Awesome info thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
check the short driveshaft yoke, the differential unit
may have to come out from car, bearings inside & outside may be best to replace too
I think the spider gears are just worn out and creating all the slop in the front diff. I ran the truck for 3 years like theat and it never got worse but it would be nice if someone found a fix for it as I have talked to several people who have the same issue.
At 9:40 in the video you make the point of installing the needle bearing with the text facing inward. Is that per bearing manufactures install instruction or is there some rule when installing a bearing in a similar application?
I honestly cant remember how different both the text side and non text side looked but I do remember there being a slight difference and the factory one I pulled out had the text inward. If I had to guess the side with the text had a shallower wall to allow oil to get to the needle bearings.
@@PostalRedneck Following how the factory install was makes good sense.
The factory service manuals say install text side in for these Torrington bearings
So about a truck it needed wheel bearings then I didn't have the money to do them right away. The left hand CV axle rip the boot that went so I replaced the wheel bearings and that one axle but it's still has a little bit of noise. Almost like a axle noise. Sometimes it's full maneuvers and then when you're on throttle it's like a rattling noise. I don't know if the front end just worn out or maybe it's the bearings. There's definitely a lot of play and a lot of leak on both sides but the noises on the left I'm pretty sure... Also, is stupid all-wheel drive... Anyway, I have vibration and it's not at 70 so most likely it's a whole front diff right?... Since it's old, it might just be better to just throw a used one in there and replace the seals and bearings on the new used one. I don't know. Or maybe it's something else
The Tahoe and Yukon have a actuator that unlocks the front diff when not in 4x4. All wheel drives definitely get more wear and tare on them due to always moving so its a good chance you have a worn out front diff.
I'm having a hard time understanding where the bearing nut that backed off is located, is it behind the bearing you replaced?
There is no nut that holds the axle inside the diff it uses a spring clip.
Hey, Bolt! 🥰
His first video outside the one I introduced him in.
Im working on some of the same things i also had a bad shake/grinding noise coming out of the front and also had the front driver side differential seal leaking im sure but not 100% positive that my cv axle and my front hub is bad causeing my issues anyways seemed that way when i was checking it all out/takeing it all apart haven't got the truck back together yet as the hole front end is all and i mean all torn apart lmao im completely rebuilding the front end but my front driver side axle has more play then i would like it to and leaking also i was woundering from checking it out if where the axle splines slides into the spider gears on the inside seems to me that the spider gears ⚙️ might have to much play on the inside of that carrier on the short shaft axle causeing alot of slopp im going to be installing new outer bearings on both sides also i got new updated 2 pice seals im going to be installing so hopefully that takes care of some of my slop and my leak will just have to see how it goes i guess if im still haveing problems with it leaking ill rebuild the front differential if i have to as well its like whats one more thing when your rebuilding the hole damn truck lmao putting more money in this thing then what its worth but you just get tired of fixing one thing after another im a mechanic i do this for a living lmao last thing im trying to do is come home every weekend and turn wrenches on my own shit 😂 but you know how it goes maybe this will be of some help to you as your video was of some help to me
I never did end up finding a solution to the problem I was having with it. Never got any worse so I just let it be but im sure it has something to do with the spider gears possibly being worn out or something. Hope you got your truck back together and moving again.
Same issue here. Maybe we just need a used/rebuilt diff?
Very annoying
I've seen so many GMT 800s with this problem I would love to hear if anyone's ever actually fixed it.
Have you checked your to see if we're the teeth for your inner shaft if it was wore out then check your spider gears
All the teeth looked good but I never did check to see how they looked on the spider gears. It seems like all the play is on the bearing side of things though. When I move the axle around its moving around on the bearing.
Could you tell me how to release the lock for the timken inner axle bearing the one with all the notches thanks
No clue sorry.
Are the bearings the same for both sides?
O by the way I had my cv axle go bad from that bad bearing and still have not solved the vibration from many different tries. Next will be a whole new front differential.
Its crazy how many people are running into this problem and yet not one video on how to fix it. I have a front diff I think im going to try to take apart and figure out what the deal is with these things.
Yeah it’s definitely frustrating I’d like to watch that video and hope you solve the issue!
So brand new front differential and I’ve got a new vibration starting seems to be getting worse I’m really thinking about taking the cv axles out and front drive shaft and have a 2 wheel drive what would be your recommendation for that?
@@un_pinned on this style truck the CV axles actually hold the front wheel bearings together. You would have to replace your wheel bearings with two-wheel drive wheel bearings or GMT 900 bearings. I would try to do a tire rotation to see if that helps any
Hmm I’ll probably scratch that idea I’ve rotated the tires actually with no luck I’d really like to solve this issue is there anyway you can put a completely different front differential in or anyway I can get rid of that vibration it’s forsure coming out of the differential drivers side the one thing I haven’t tried is that wider bearing the 2010 number I believe have you tried that bearing?
I have same issue with my truck.. haven't replaced the bearing yet, have you tried anything else since?
Sadly about 2 weeks after installing the new bearing and seal it was already leaking again. I gave up and have been driving it like that ever sense with no real issue. I know a few other people local who have the same problem but no solution. Let me know if you find any as it would be nice to have a fix for this.
Did you ever come to a different conclusion? I was about to do my seal and bearing. But now im thinking i need to go deeper into the deferential.
Never did end up fixing the problem and have been driving it now since then with no real issues other than it leaks and at around 80 mph I get a vibration coming from the left front. The fact that all four of my Tahoes and all three of my buddies Suburbans have the same problem I don't know what the fix would be. I wonder if the spider gears and the shaft splines after so many miles become so worn out that the shaft no longer holds true.
@@PostalRedneck I have a vibration pretty much at all speeds. No noise, just vibration. I'll probably just leave it alone. Otherwise it will be a total diff rebuild
Try a new stub shaft maybe
3 days ago mine developed a vibration. It's rapidly getting more frequent at a wider range of speeds. :(
@MOPEDMAN28 did you end up figuring it out? My poor 89 s10 has the same problem and its getting worse. I ordered seals and bearing at work thinking thatd fix it after i found the sloppy driver side inner axle. But now im second guessing myself
Front inner carrier bearing
You would think with how lose it is that it would make noise if it was the carrier bearing.
Did your stub shaft clip stay inside the axle and reengage on installation?
Yes. Unlike front wheel drive cars where the retaining ring is located on the axle the GMT800 front retaining ring stays inside the diff.
It is the notched ring around the bearing that was replaced in this video
This is what everyone on a GMT800 forum is saying but I have yet to see a video proof of this to being true. Did you do this to your truck and did it fix it. If you have a link or something that would prove it I would work I would love to see it. Everyone keeps saying this is the fix but I think that notched ring is for preloading the carrier bearings.
I don’t have a video of us doing it. It is as I said in my first response, the center carrier bearing adjustment. So by taking up the slack you correct the timken bearing being loose and the axle support. It did fix it. The seal does not leak.
Well I may have to do another video on how to correct the issue. I currently have the axle out of the truck as the frame broke and I scarped it. I wanted to make sure this was the fix for the problem before I take apart a good spare. Thanks for letting me know hopefully ill have time some time this summer to do a video on it as im sure a bunch of people are having this same problem and no one has a fix for it.