THANK YOU so much for this. My son's blaster was trigger-jammed and he was super sad. I'm not a very skillful person with this but following your video and reassembling it after greasing some plastic parts just worked fine. My son's happy again! You're awesome dude! Thanks again.
This series is the absolute best thing in my opinion because it gives you a “safety net” if you will. No matter how many parts you knock out, you have cap’s reassembly videos to back you up. I can’t thank you enough!
Aha! The mystery is solved! I've got an original orange Stryfe, and was wondering what its boggle was - it's the blasted empty-magazine lock! Thank you, Captain. That's been flummoxing me for a while.
Great video cap! I know I'm going to sound like a liar, but I wanted to do this series taking apart a blaster and putting it back together, but I just didn't have the time to do so, so I approve of this series sir!
Thanks for doing these Captain! I hope to get a Stryfe in the future and this guide will definitely help with whatever shenanigans I decide to pop into it. I can almost always disassemble something perfectly. It's the whole putting it back together I screw up.
No matter how many tutorials I watch, yours are the best But I also have a question: what type of crush flywheel cage do I need with honey badgers and flywheels (stock or out of darts' insutantos because both are exceptionally light) If I want to have a really fancy stryfe that doesn't make as much noise as it did in a stock cage and wheels that uses honey badgers? (this will just be used in events with little kids, not ultrastock events, thanks in advance)
If you want reasonably low FPS then the least crush you can get. Honey Badgers are not terribly high torque so they do not work all that well at high crush anyway.
Please do a Strongarm reassembly video. I wasn't expecting to have trouble getting mine back together, but the catch spring is defeating me. What's the trick to it? I have to do a bunch of Strongarms with my grandkids and I only have so much hair left to pull out in frustration. Thanks. Btw, yours is the best channel in nerfdom when it comes to mod guides. You actually take the time to do everything on camera instead of saying what you're about to do and then cutting to show the result. I dig Drac, but he's really guilty of that. I learn much more from you.
I also didn't disassemble the switches, desolder all the components off the various green boards, or remove the battery contacts from the battery housing. If you are going to be an annoying Pedantic Avenger at least try to be thorough.
Do you have any idea why my stryfe won't work? If I activate all the switches and then run power directly from the battery positive to the motors, it works. However, if I open the jam door lock which running power to the motors it stops which I guess makes sense because it is sending negative to the motors like you said. However, if I am not running power straight to the motors and I activate all the switches including the jam door one it still doesn't work. So I suspect it has something to do with the jam door lock but I don't know what. If I just removed the jam door switch, removed the green wire entirely and then attached the orange wire to the red one directly instead of going through the switch, do you think that would work? I guess that would remove the motor braking wouldn't it?
@@CaptainXavier I figured it out, the Rev switch was bad. I thought I had checked it before but I removed every other switch and it still wasn't working. So now I have a slightly better stryfe so that's cool. I plan to do a full rewire eventually.
No idea what kind of performance you will get. You are looking at over 40% below the optimal rpm. A great deal of testing and experimentation went into determining 35k rpm was optimal. The other question is going to be torque. RPM is only one element. Torque determines spin up time and recovery time between shots. Most motors used in the hobby were specifically designed for the hobby. There is a reason we use them.
@@CaptainXavier I was referring to the fact it says the video was posted on Jan 12, today, not Monday. I guess the joke wasn't worded quite right. Oh well, can't win 'em all.
@@thunderb.dreadnought1363 no no, I get what you are saying. But that "joke" gets made everytime I am unable to get a Monday Mod tips video out on Monday and it has long since stopped being funny, it is just annoyingly pedantic. I had to completely refilm the video and I have really slow internet so while I finished filming and editing it on Monday it did not finish uploading until early Tuesday morning. Just a little grumpy is all, don't mind me.
![[Mod] How to remove locks on a stryfe | No rewiring needed](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KlLnTvZF9Dw/mqdefault.jpg)
THANK YOU so much for this. My son's blaster was trigger-jammed and he was super sad. I'm not a very skillful person with this but following your video and reassembling it after greasing some plastic parts just worked fine. My son's happy again! You're awesome dude! Thanks again.
This series is the absolute best thing in my opinion because it gives you a “safety net” if you will. No matter how many parts you knock out, you have cap’s reassembly videos to back you up. I can’t thank you enough!
I’m a complete noob and this helped me to sort out my jamming issues on a thrift stryfe I bought. Cheers
Aha! The mystery is solved! I've got an original orange Stryfe, and was wondering what its boggle was - it's the blasted empty-magazine lock!
Thank you, Captain. That's been flummoxing me for a while.
I have a blue one that had it
I like to keep the jamdoor lock, it’s good for having a form of “safety”
The safety is technically the rev trigger
Perfect! This by far will be the most helpful of all the reassemblies!
Great video cap! I know I'm going to sound like a liar, but I wanted to do this series taking apart a blaster and putting it back together, but I just didn't have the time to do so, so I approve of this series sir!
Seriously, as always, these highly detailed videos are AMAZING and helpful.
Excellent guide, captain. Keep up the good work. Bangarang!
Thanks for doing these Captain! I hope to get a Stryfe in the future and this guide will definitely help with whatever shenanigans I decide to pop into it. I can almost always disassemble something perfectly. It's the whole putting it back together I screw up.
Same goes for most of us, that’s why it’s great the captain is here for us :D
No matter how many tutorials I watch, yours are the best
But I also have a question: what type of crush flywheel cage do I need with honey badgers and flywheels (stock or out of darts' insutantos because both are exceptionally light) If I want to have a really fancy stryfe that doesn't make as much noise as it did in a stock cage and wheels that uses honey badgers? (this will just be used in events with little kids, not ultrastock events, thanks in advance)
If you want reasonably low FPS then the least crush you can get. Honey Badgers are not terribly high torque so they do not work all that well at high crush anyway.
still love the discussion about all the locks, how they work and why they might be needed (or not). Thank you sir for doing such fine work.
This will be very helpful thanks for the video loved it.
Thank you for uploading this video it helped me a lot!!
Surprised how long it took for the stryfe to come,however still a great video
Please do a Strongarm reassembly video. I wasn't expecting to have trouble getting mine back together, but the catch spring is defeating me. What's the trick to it? I have to do a bunch of Strongarms with my grandkids and I only have so much hair left to pull out in frustration. Thanks. Btw, yours is the best channel in nerfdom when it comes to mod guides. You actually take the time to do everything on camera instead of saying what you're about to do and then cutting to show the result. I dig Drac, but he's really guilty of that. I learn much more from you.
you are correct that they tap the thread with the screw itself
Thanks for making this video! If only it had come out like a year ago, I wouldn’t have ruined my stryfe
Thank you sir! Bangarang!
Thanks a million bro ❤ that helped me sooooo much ❤❤❤
my grey trigger stryfe doesnt have that lock where you cant pull the trigger completely unless there is darts in the mag.
Yeah, none of them have it anymore.
@@CaptainXavier yeah coz I got my Stryfe only a month ago in stores
But you did not disasemble the motors +(
I also didn't disassemble the switches, desolder all the components off the various green boards, or remove the battery contacts from the battery housing. If you are going to be an annoying Pedantic Avenger at least try to be thorough.
POV: your early and your trying to write something funny
Pov: the comments on the comment is empty and you need a witty comeback
Pov: all comments help and interacting with viewers helps increase comments so you need to reply to the comment
POV: you tried to type “pov” and autocorrect typed “Pog”
@@kav9533 ayyy
Keep going
Fixing smart phones, I used to lose screws smaller then grains of sand. You think I'm afraid of losing a spring!?
...is this a rhetorical question or do you really want an answer?
Do you have any idea why my stryfe won't work? If I activate all the switches and then run power directly from the battery positive to the motors, it works. However, if I open the jam door lock which running power to the motors it stops which I guess makes sense because it is sending negative to the motors like you said. However, if I am not running power straight to the motors and I activate all the switches including the jam door one it still doesn't work. So I suspect it has something to do with the jam door lock but I don't know what.
If I just removed the jam door switch, removed the green wire entirely and then attached the orange wire to the red one directly instead of going through the switch, do you think that would work? I guess that would remove the motor braking wouldn't it?
It sounds like you have a bad switch or a broken wire somewhere. You will need to trace it back from the motors.
@@CaptainXavier I figured it out, the Rev switch was bad. I thought I had checked it before but I removed every other switch and it still wasn't working.
So now I have a slightly better stryfe so that's cool. I plan to do a full rewire eventually.
@Captian Xavier what is thermistel board and my stryfe's broken would u mind helping me
my stryfe automatically starts revving whenever i put a magazine in... Can I fix this without taking the blaster apart?
@knoxlatremouille2024 probably not. Did it always do this, or is this a recent development? My just is a bad or jammed Rev switch.
Excuse me Captain Xavier, but do you mind telling me what steadycam arm you used for the smartgun?
It is a steady cam arm. I got it used on Ebay. You now know as much as I do.
@@CaptainXavier 😊
I could probably figure out the brand...galaxy something I think.
You saved my nerf
Make a crossbolt one. I wanna mod my friends crossbolt but it's full of locks and got confused
Did you vote for it?
@@CaptainXavierlol Im dum. I will
Lol, he said Whisker Biscuit. That's how I thought they worked. I've always had to remove the rubber ones, they tend to sag and drag.
Hey cap, great vid! Could your next re-assembly guide be one of a strongarm?
I cover this in this video at 28:45
@@CaptainXavier Ok, I will. At the time I didn't see the link in the description, so I just commented it.
Yeeeeeah...I forgot to put the link in. Just added because of your comment so...thanks! :D
I'm somewhat early 😅😅 and I can't wait for one of these on the demolisher.
Is it the smar for every stryfe
..."smar"?
How much improvement will I get if I change only the motors to 20k rpm 5A and the buttons
Does 35k rpm really matter that much?
No idea what kind of performance you will get. You are looking at over 40% below the optimal rpm. A great deal of testing and experimentation went into determining 35k rpm was optimal.
The other question is going to be torque. RPM is only one element. Torque determines spin up time and recovery time between shots. Most motors used in the hobby were specifically designed for the hobby. There is a reason we use them.
OK, I found a Worker kit, is Worker aluminum wheels are better than normal wheels
@@hhnvuokjr634 they are certainly better than the stock wheels.
@@CaptainXavier
And what about the POM compared to the aluminum because I heard that the aluminum is not caught well and is very noisy
@@hhnvuokjr634 POM?
Am I in a time loop? I thought yesterday was monday! 😁
Same, but I think he may have filmed it on Monday.
Not a time loop...that is how linear time works. People who watch this video tomorrow will be in Wednesday...and so forth...
@@CaptainXavier I was referring to the fact it says the video was posted on Jan 12, today, not Monday. I guess the joke wasn't worded quite right. Oh well, can't win 'em all.
@@thunderb.dreadnought1363 no no, I get what you are saying. But that "joke" gets made everytime I am unable to get a Monday Mod tips video out on Monday and it has long since stopped being funny, it is just annoyingly pedantic. I had to completely refilm the video and I have really slow internet so while I finished filming and editing it on Monday it did not finish uploading until early Tuesday morning. Just a little grumpy is all, don't mind me.
@@CaptainXavier Got it, sorry. I guess I never noticed that you were ever late before.
I dare you to k26 a deploy
First of all: you "dare" me? Do I look like a middleschooler to you?
Secondly: I already tried. It cannot.
@@CaptainXavier dang
Hello everyone
hi
@@CaptainXavier My god!
COMMENT!!!
hey i have a integration idea . a rapid strike with a ultra 2 on the under rail
POV: your trying to write a funny pov
Yeah...this joke has already been done...
@@CaptainXavier oof
This is why Commenting Etiquette 101 includes "read the comments before commenting." ;P