Actually the lamp has a capacitive source, which does not introduce interference. The led board is made for 12W and is consuming much less, so it will last for years. It is much better than the others.
That bigger bulb is extremely dangerous, it is mains referenced and can kill you if you touch the cob (my heart skipped when you almost touched it cause of that cap falling). The other bulbs have tiny auto transformers which are much safer as they are stepping the voltage down, they probably have chokes to cap the current aswell were as the big one just uses resistors.
>chokes to cap the current aswell were as the big one just uses resistors. The purpose of a choke is to eliminate RF from the circuit, it does not limit the current in a circuit. The large fake rating LED bulb uses a capacitor dropper to limit the current, where a capacitor does the current limiting through reactance. Properly designed LED bulbs are no less dangerous internally. The LEDs are going to be arranged in a series string to improve efficiency, which means you'll easily see 50+ volts across them. Even if the bulb uses a transformer to isolate the high voltage DC side from the mains, doesn't mean you can't get a lethal shock from it.
Looked to me by the design of that bulb that the series string operates on a little more than 60vdc... and when one LED burns out, the whole string goes out... thus the 2 year life
Philips is using high frequency SMPS - huge generator of RFI in the LW/MW/SW radio spectrum. Trisonic is only capacitive / resistive dropper / rectifier, running at 60 Hz.
Exactly, I was wondering why a comparisons were being made about RFI against a switched mode power supply and a capacitive dropper. Even very high end LED lights that use a SMPS are not going to employ common mode filters and full class Y filtering !
Those Philips led bulbs are great utility bulbs. I've put a bunch in continuous service and they're working well years later. For a while you could get a 4 pack for $6 in VA.
Heh, I love dollar store light bulbs! Honestly, I have more fun with discovering what is really going on with these cheap led bulbs than good ones! I always enjoy these videos.
I have followed you since about 2012. I don't know why but I get excited about new record player and light bulb videos. Keep up the good work. You're providing the masses with education and nostalgic joy.
You and I are so much alike with our workbenches, old computers, old audio stuff, and free Harbor Freight tools! I'm glad I'm not alone! Love your videos!
The low power factor was a clear indication the bulb used a plain boring capacitive dropper circuit to convert the 110v ac to some lower value. Most likely you have two strings of leds, I'm guessing since I count 40 leds in total, you have two strands of 20 leds on each, so the capacitive dropper takes down your voltage to around 60v DC and each led is driven at around 4.8w / 40 = 0.12w per led, at 3v forward voltage that's around 40mA of current...reasonable value.
In distressed, shaky voice, he mumbled. _"Tranquility is beauty, equanimity is joy... tranquility is beauty, equanimity is joy...."_ "What's wrong?" I asked. *_"SOY SOY SOY"_* he screamed. I backed off in fear and called for help.
It's never a good sign when something falls apart straight out the packaging, pleasant surprise how little interference it generates though if nothing else.
If these where cheaper they would be okay if you put some more glue on the components to keep them together, and then installed someplace high like garage or work shop where a kid normally would not get too them.
10:14 *375J* Capacitor *37* - the value *5* - the multiplier = *x 10^5* pF *J* - the tolerance code = *+/-5%* The value is 370nF, which is not even an E24 value.
Several years ago, PSNH (the only power supplier in NH until very recently) offered a rebate program with Batteries Plus where any NH household could buy up to ten LED bulbs for $4/ea (an absolute bargain in 2012 or so). The bulbs they were offering were a new product from a startup company called "Switch Lighting." These bulbs were unlike anything on the market at the time; they had a shape very similar to traditional incandescents, featured frosted plastic globes, and were filled with liquid silicone for better cooling. I bought my entire allotment and installed them in all my fixtures (replacing all of my CFLs). These bulbs were unusually heavy, but looked great and produce a light closer to an incandescent bulb (a soft, warm, bright light). I absolutely LOVE these bulbs, and when I went to buy more, I was saddened to learn the company went bankrupt shortly after my purchase. As far as I know, some early units were prone to leakage, but mine have all been 100% trouble-free for the five years I've owned them, and one is installed in my front porch where it has never been shut off in five years.
There are "SWITCH Lighting" LED bulbs still available on Amazon: www.amazon.com/SWITCH-Lighting/b/ref=w_bl_hsx_s_hi_web_7935341011?ie=UTF8&node=7935341011
I love your videos... Have been a subscriber for many years. You make the most mundane subjects very interesting and your videos have a nice.relaxing effect on me. You along with LGR, the 8 bit guy uxwbill and techmoan are the channels I can't gen enough of. Just wanted you to know!!!
its an old design, and using cheap knock off chinese leds, some old factory stock, that still might be producing low end cheap crap. and it cant be 480 lumens at its current draw either, as its not 100 lumens per watt , so im gonna say its about 250 lumens, the real issue why its 3.99 is the seller, they bought a boat load either 10 years ago when a 3.99 price was closer to its cost, or if they got them anytime recently they are making a huge markup
Jusb1066 the trisonic looks much bright and comsume only 5w also I'm not happy with the interference on the other I hope you know don't affect only AM kill red cells from your body and can give you leukemia or cancer (I can explain exactly why you get cancer from LED but will a long coment )
Diagram seems simple enough, if anyone is interested that 375/3.7uF capacitor works as capacitive dropper, the 334/330k resistor is for bypassing any stored charge in it. The LEDs are probably on series and the two 330/33R resistors are in parallel to get 16.5R in series with those LEDs to limit the current. Other capacitor is across the LED string to make the lamp less flickery. That's also why it doesn't interfere with AM.
The 375 code indicates the capacitance, which is 3.7uF The "J" means its a Tantalum capacitor. Also, since this is a very simple circuit (just a capacitor voltage reducer), it produces little to no noise (just AC noise) the other LED has a much more complex "switching regulator", which is much higher frequency than standard AC Another thing, be careful while opening the bulb! The red capacitor may still be holding some charge and can *really* shock you!
Anyone who has not realised - the reel to reel intro is a nod to the old Techmoan intro. In a previous video, someone referred to VWestlife as being a "ghetto Techmoan", so this was his perfect response!
Had one of these cheap Chinese LED bulbs give me a shock before, it was one of the ones with the exposed heatsink and when it died I put my hand on it to swap it out and got zapped off 240V mains. You forget how badly 240v hurts until it happens again.
I have been replacing the bulbs where I live with the dollar tree LED lights. Some are 2+ years old and are still working fine. The color temperature is nice too.
I think Sylvania actually built an American LED factory this year. They'd probably be the first and only company to do so. I've seen others that say "assembled in USA", but don't recall if they were also Sylvania
Yeah, "swa" is how it's pronounced, while "soi" is how it's spelled. English is funny like that. ;) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ghoti knowyourmeme.com/memes/roflcopter
The Sylvania bulb most likely contains a switch mode power supply, which runs the LED modules at frequencies in excess of 100KHz and produces quite a lot of RF interference in the process. Given the lack of banding, it would appear to have plenty of input filtering. The Trisonic bulb contains a capacitive dropper (SMD diodes form the bridge rectifier) with inadequate input filtering, which results in a significant amount of AC ripple on the output. This is what produces the banding effect. Incidentally, inadequate input filtering is also quite a common characteristic of cheap electronically ballasted fluorescent lamps and is why many people find them to be rather headache inducing.
I love the reel to reel intro of this video, much better quality than the trisonical light bulb! You should upload the contents of the tape if you can.
Ha! - I called this site the ghetto Techmoan last time, so he added the reel to reel shot at the end with the ghetto Akai deck missing some parts - This guy has a great sense of humor! - awesome!
I kinda like the no radio interference feature and the fact it uses half the advertised energy usage! A suggested jingle, "You get less for your money with Trisonic!"
Planned obsolescence begin with lightbulbs and its now caught up with LEDs (btw, Philips was the company that created planned obsolescence in the first place). I bought a bunch three years ago, only had one go bad. New ones probably won't last a year.
I have a Trisonic 16 foot Tape Measure that I also purchased at a Dollar Store 😀. I bought it in Jersey City 😀. It doesn't seem to have any defects. At least not yet. I guess Trisonic sells it's products to Dollar Stores 😀. Interesting videos as always 😀.
I recommend you review the Cree brand LED's I bought mine when Cree first started releasing them to the market a few years ago. Mine are first generation Cree LED's and are heavy cast aluminum with large heat sink cast into them. They use actual glass bulbs with a rubber membrane over the glass to diffuse the light. 3+ years later they are going strong. One of them has been hanging exposed in a broken outdoor light fixture and is unphased by weather exposure or even cold. They were quite expensive when I bought mine and I'm not sure what they cost now but I know they are much cheaper now. I would be interested to know if the build quality is still as good as the first generation Cree LED. The light output is also fantastic can't tell any difference from incandescent at all
With those open vents I hope nobody uses these bulbs outdoors. I bet that bulb was for stored for years and the cheap glue gun glue that held it all together has dried out.
One thing about the color temperature of light is that the higher the number means that the light is less bright in terms of the amount of cool white (aka daylight type white) light it outputs. 5000K will be brighter than 6000K, and the higher the number the light appears more with a blueish to a purplish tent to it.
I have a few incandescent bulbs kicking around. I have some CFL and LED bulbs installed. Some LED fixtures that have lights built-in and can't even take a bulb have terrible 60hz flicker and I hate that. LEDs and AC power do not get along.
LED bulbs can work really great if they actually add in a smoothing capacitor to the full bridge rectifier. Then you'll get a great smooth look at low energy costs. Saves on those electricity bills!
How would these compare to the Cree LEDs? I know I've been brought up by their TV commercials, and I have a lot of bulbs in this condo replaced with Cree LEDs, and I've had a couple that almost burned out right out of the box. Most of them DID work, however, and very strongly, too.
10:14 375 means 37 and then 5 zeroes on the end (in pF) - so 3.7uF. Rating is ofc 400V. So it seems like a simple capacitive dropper circuit with no mains isolation. 334 resistors are 33 and then 4 zeroes = 330k Ohms. Since there are two of them it looks like they are the discharge resistors across those two caps. The 330 resistors (33 and 0 zeroes = 33 ohms) are more than likely to do with the LEDs.
yes they do more than a cap dropper and rectify, so interference is going to happen, but for normal useage it wont affect anything, unless you listen to am 1ft away from a lightbulb
Actually, if you calculate the 'real usage' with the power-factor you get about 12 Wattsssss... about 3 times about 4 = 12 (invert the power-factor). So it will be 'using' 12 Watts and if you put some of them parallel on for example an inverter you will notice that in the spikes they use. Actually it can be fun to use these kind of lights on a cheap inverter because the average voltage will be pretty high on the LED's and probably will stop them working in a few hours. (effect of not real sinus). Like with a lot of chineese stuff: if the hotglue is not working anymore, just add some more to re-attach. Nice review.
Wow those red caps are hot now on the audiophile market. People paying 800-1000 dollars for those Trisonics to grab those unique run of capacitors. They are hard to find now.
the reason for the bulb to run at 60 hz is because the dropper circuit usually is a capacitor/resistor instead of a full switching power supply. the led bulbs are usually made up of several led chips wired in series so they can run from 50 volts dc and sometimes there are 2 or 3 parallel strings of led chips at 4 watts that is very good power usage for an led. the fact that the dome comes off so easy is not safe. you should only use the trisonic bulb in a place where it is out of reach of children and even adults so you dont come in contact with the exposed connections
There are one dollar Sunbeam (which isn't an unknown or even really obscure brand) LEDs at Dollar Tree. I'd be really interested to hear your opinions on those.
I have become very picky when it comes to LED bulbs. There are some SMD LEDs that are really good but i prefer these filament LEDs even more because of their 360° illumination range, just like their incandescent originals. However they often seem to flicker a lot in the lower Watt replacement range, like for 40 watts. While the higher ones like 60 Watt replacement are totally fine and flicker free. Pulse-width Modulation LEDs are the worst when it comes to flickering.
375J would be 3.7uF, looks like the typical capacitor dropper circuit I've seen so many times (mainly in Big Clive's videos). You have to remember they're comparing to what would be a 100w bulb in Chinese watts, witch are a lot smaller than normal watts! I thought I was accidentally watching one of my videos at the start as I have a Reel to Reel a lot like that. Bet THAT didn't come from the dollar store!
Hi Westlife, a big fan of your videos. I just have one question. The other day I was cleaning up my dad's room and came across the same Akai reel to reel you show on this video. I powered it up and it seems to work fine although I do not have any tape to go in there. However, when I found this unit, the PLAY was engaged and due to the time it has been stopped in the play more, there is a small grove caved into the rubber pinch roller from the capstan stick. Due to that, when I hit the play, its spinning with that grove makes the pinch roller jump up and down making it not an even play back. Is there a place where I can buy that pinch roller wheel? I would like to fix this up and get some tapes to go with it. I've always wanted to own a reel to reel even though it was not my era when growing up. Can you help me out to get a new rubber roller or any ideas to fix it? Look forward to your reply. Thank you so much for great informative videos, I really enjoy them.
I love Sylvania led bulbs I own 4 2 in living room in 2 lamps one in my bathroom one my bedroom the one in my bathroom I bought frist 2nd one I bought for my bedroom and brought 2 pack for my living room yesterday
That’s ridiculous for them to claim 480 lumens is the light of a 100-watt standard light bulb-a 100-watt incandescent light bulb produces about 1600 lumens.
I like IKEA's TRÅDFRI series. Means I can have daylight when I need it, 'normal' light and a very warm light when I wan that. And the price is not terrible. Oh and now you can get them with multicolor options, "almost" a replacement for Phillips Hue.
That trisonic should be a 40 watt equivalent. Daylight bulb, plus every 40 watt equivalent led bulb I have seen seems brighter than a 40 watt incandescent. Plastic base with air vents for cooling instead of a metal heatsink base probably also will cause lower life of the bulb. Truthfully I kinda want one of those trisonic, just to compare to other led bulbs in my table lamp, and maybe use it there just to see how long it actually lasts. The first cfl bulb I bought, before many people even knew about them, was only rated for 3 years I believe at 4 hours a day, but I got 4 years out of it at many more hours a day usage. Maybe the easily removable dome on the trisonic is so it can run and let heat escape and thus increasing it's life.
Yeah, that's a great idea! We currently have a ton of CFL's and some incandescents knocking around that we'll probably replace with LED's when the time comes.
VWestlife, I have a request for a video. Would you be interested in doing one on turntable cartridges and styli? For instance, can an expensive stylus make a cheap turntable sound better, gains and losses with different types, and is it actually worth spending the money to upgrade.
The orange capacitor is used as current limiter ; the value should be about 1 uF, 400 Volt. The AC 120 volt goes thru it, then to the diode bridge and finally the electrolytic capacitor reduce is regulating the DC to decrease flickering. All the LED are connected in series ; 3 volt each adding to 90 volt if there is 30 LED. One resistor is probably in parallel to the electrolytic capacitor and is there to discharge it when the lamp is powered off. Simple circuit, inefficient but creating no EMF on the AM radio. Still no as bad as if a resistor would have been used as current limiting. The capacitor can return to the grid part on the energy instead of total waste as heat like resistors do. Since most loads in a typical house are inductive, this lamp may counter balance such load and end-up improving the poor power factor.
Don't be such a downer on Trisonic, their tool-less teardown system is state of the art!
Actually the lamp has a capacitive source, which does not introduce interference. The led board is made for 12W and is consuming much less, so it will last for years. It is much better than the others.
Which dollar store is he referring to? Is it still available, will I be able to find this bulb since this is an older video somewhat??
Ｔｒａｎｑｕｉｌｉｔｙ ｉｓ ｂｅａｕｔｙ．
Ｅｑｕａｎｉｍｉｔｙ ｉｓ ｊｏｙ．
Soisoisoi
ａｌｌ ａｂｏａｒｄ ｔｅｈ ｒｏｆｌｃｏｐｔｅｒ.
soisoisoisoisoisoisoisoisoisoisoi
"Don't try this at home, or at a friends house" I'll just try it at work then.
Henry Bellin well, chances are they will have a first aid station there, as opposed to home XD
You should send this to Big Clive. Would be fun to see him do a bit more analysis on it.
Trisonic sounds like some super badass synthesizer you'd buy in the 80s.
Or a cheap VHS tape brand
Or a cool album
In the 80s, those cheapo blank audio cassettes used to have names like Kingsonic, Bonsonic and Melsonic. One thing was for sure - they were all cack!
Not making this up, But I think that "brand" WAS used on cheap VHS tapes. I also think I was batteries with this "brand".
@@Fluteboy "Bonsonic" I've seen!, Also "Bansonic" (In the 1970's - an obvious riff on Panasonic!)
I've seen Pensonic
Supersonic, electronik!
"soisoisoi" omfg I was not ready for that
Microsoft Sam still trolling us
That bigger bulb is extremely dangerous, it is mains referenced and can kill you if you touch the cob (my heart skipped when you almost touched it cause of that cap falling). The other bulbs have tiny auto transformers which are much safer as they are stepping the voltage down, they probably have chokes to cap the current aswell were as the big one just uses resistors.
Luckily 120-volt American power is not as deadly as a UK 30+ amp ring main at 240 to 250 volts.
>chokes to cap the current aswell were as the big one just uses resistors.
The purpose of a choke is to eliminate RF from the circuit, it does not limit the current in a circuit. The large fake rating LED bulb uses a capacitor dropper to limit the current, where a capacitor does the current limiting through reactance.
Properly designed LED bulbs are no less dangerous internally. The LEDs are going to be arranged in a series string to improve efficiency, which means you'll easily see 50+ volts across them. Even if the bulb uses a transformer to isolate the high voltage DC side from the mains, doesn't mean you can't get a lethal shock from it.
why? snuff afraid upload. who would have uploaded it to his acc.
The larger bulb uses a capacitive dropper circuit while the Sylvania and Philips probably use a switching supply which may generate lots of noise.
Looked to me by the design of that bulb that the series string operates on a little more than 60vdc... and when one LED burns out, the whole string goes out... thus the 2 year life
@@KlodFather or the opened led will break down and short so restoring the string, i've seen that occur ...
Philips is using high frequency SMPS - huge generator of RFI in the LW/MW/SW radio spectrum. Trisonic is only capacitive / resistive dropper / rectifier, running at 60 Hz.
Exactly, I was wondering why a comparisons were being made about RFI against a switched mode power supply and a capacitive dropper. Even very high end LED lights that use a SMPS are not going to employ common mode filters and full class Y filtering !
Could that interfere with those radio clocks that set themselves? The station is on 60Hz.
@@rasoirwolf The 'atomic clock' signal is at 60 kHz. North America residential and industrial power supply is 60 Hz.
I love the fact that this man is able to consistently make interesting videos about lightbulbs
Based on the title and thumbnail I thought I was going to be watching a Bigclivedotcom video ;-)
0:24 oh my god lmaoooo
video We can make a meme out of that...
Like that weird face "succ" meme
Those Philips led bulbs are great utility bulbs. I've put a bunch in continuous service and they're working well years later. For a while you could get a 4 pack for $6 in VA.
I never did understand why 'soy' came out of TTS Sam as a heavy guttural throat clearing sound but it always cracked me the hell up.
Heh, I love dollar store light bulbs! Honestly, I have more fun with discovering what is really going on with these cheap led bulbs than good ones! I always enjoy these videos.
until one of them kills you of course
soi soi soi!
8:28 You nearly shocked yourself. Your hand was just millimeters from the live wiring.
I have followed you since about 2012. I don't know why but I get excited about new record player and light bulb videos. Keep up the good work. You're providing the masses with education and nostalgic joy.
You and I are so much alike with our workbenches, old computers, old audio stuff, and free Harbor Freight tools! I'm glad I'm not alone! Love your videos!
I sure like your consumer product videos. Your video about 'solar' calculators was the historic first one that I viewed.
The low power factor was a clear indication the bulb used a plain boring capacitive dropper circuit to convert the 110v ac to some lower value.
Most likely you have two strings of leds, I'm guessing since I count 40 leds in total, you have two strands of 20 leds on each, so the capacitive dropper takes down your voltage to around 60v DC and each led is driven at around 4.8w / 40 = 0.12w per led, at 3v forward voltage that's around 40mA of current...reasonable value.
In distressed, shaky voice, he mumbled.
_"Tranquility is beauty, equanimity is joy... tranquility is beauty, equanimity is joy...."_
"What's wrong?" I asked.
*_"SOY SOY SOY"_* he screamed.
I backed off in fear and called for help.
It's never a good sign when something falls apart straight out the packaging, pleasant surprise how little interference it generates though if nothing else.
If these where cheaper they would be okay if you put some more glue on the components to keep them together, and then installed someplace high like garage or work shop where a kid normally would not get too them.
10:14 *375J* Capacitor
*37* - the value
*5* - the multiplier = *x 10^5* pF
*J* - the tolerance code = *+/-5%*
The value is 370nF, which is not even an E24 value.
Several years ago, PSNH (the only power supplier in NH until very recently) offered a rebate program with Batteries Plus where any NH household could buy up to ten LED bulbs for $4/ea (an absolute bargain in 2012 or so). The bulbs they were offering were a new product from a startup company called "Switch Lighting." These bulbs were unlike anything on the market at the time; they had a shape very similar to traditional incandescents, featured frosted plastic globes, and were filled with liquid silicone for better cooling. I bought my entire allotment and installed them in all my fixtures (replacing all of my CFLs). These bulbs were unusually heavy, but looked great and produce a light closer to an incandescent bulb (a soft, warm, bright light). I absolutely LOVE these bulbs, and when I went to buy more, I was saddened to learn the company went bankrupt shortly after my purchase. As far as I know, some early units were prone to leakage, but mine have all been 100% trouble-free for the five years I've owned them, and one is installed in my front porch where it has never been shut off in five years.
There are "SWITCH Lighting" LED bulbs still available on Amazon: www.amazon.com/SWITCH-Lighting/b/ref=w_bl_hsx_s_hi_web_7935341011?ie=UTF8&node=7935341011
I love your videos... Have been a subscriber for many years. You make the most mundane subjects very interesting and your videos have a nice.relaxing effect on me. You along with LGR, the 8 bit guy uxwbill and techmoan are the channels I can't gen enough of. Just wanted you to know!!!
I wanted to add that your videos are very educational too. I have learned a lot of things from you.
its an old design, and using cheap knock off chinese leds, some old factory stock, that still might be producing low end cheap crap. and it cant be 480 lumens at its current draw either, as its not 100 lumens per watt , so im gonna say its about 250 lumens, the real issue why its 3.99 is the seller, they bought a boat load either 10 years ago when a 3.99 price was closer to its cost, or if they got them anytime recently they are making a huge markup
Jusb1066 the trisonic looks much bright and comsume only 5w also I'm not happy with the interference on the other I hope you know don't affect only AM kill red cells from your body and can give you leukemia or cancer (I can explain exactly why you get cancer from LED but will a long coment )
Diagram seems simple enough, if anyone is interested that 375/3.7uF capacitor works as capacitive dropper, the 334/330k resistor is for bypassing any stored charge in it. The LEDs are probably on series and the two 330/33R resistors are in parallel to get 16.5R in series with those LEDs to limit the current. Other capacitor is across the LED string to make the lamp less flickery. That's also why it doesn't interfere with AM.
The 375 code indicates the capacitance, which is 3.7uF
The "J" means its a Tantalum capacitor.
Also, since this is a very simple circuit (just a capacitor voltage reducer), it produces little to no noise (just AC noise)
the other LED has a much more complex "switching regulator", which is much higher frequency than standard AC
Another thing, be careful while opening the bulb! The red capacitor may still be holding some charge and can *really* shock you!
Anyone who has not realised - the reel to reel intro is a nod to the old Techmoan intro. In a previous video, someone referred to VWestlife as being a "ghetto Techmoan", so this was his perfect response!
Had one of these cheap Chinese LED bulbs give me a shock before, it was one of the ones with the exposed heatsink and when it died I put my hand on it to swap it out and got zapped off 240V mains. You forget how badly 240v hurts until it happens again.
Ouch, that's not fun at all. I also know how it feels, it really does hurt.
Pain is good... It provides clarity to the mind and soul...
And reminds us all that we are dumbasses LOL
Um, no. Just, no. Pain is not good, especially when it's caused by electrocution that could lead to death.
@@Lachlant1984 You mean electric shock. Electrocution by definition is already death.
Really hertz.
I still have no idea what your channel is about but I like it
Love your vids man ☺
I have been replacing the bulbs where I live with the dollar tree LED lights. Some are 2+ years old and are still working fine. The color temperature is nice too.
I think Sylvania actually built an American LED factory this year. They'd probably be the first and only company to do so. I've seen others that say "assembled in USA", but don't recall if they were also Sylvania
Tranquility is beauty. Equanimity is joy. *SWA SWA SWAAAA!* (soi soi soi)
*SOI SOI SOI
Pocket sand!
"Swa swa swa" is what my ears picked up.. XD
Yeah, "swa" is how it's pronounced, while "soi" is how it's spelled. English is funny like that. ;) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ghoti knowyourmeme.com/memes/roflcopter
ahhhhh.. now I know, thanks for enlightenment.
The Sylvania bulb most likely contains a switch mode power supply, which runs the LED modules at frequencies in excess of 100KHz and produces quite a lot of RF interference in the process. Given the lack of banding, it would appear to have plenty of input filtering.
The Trisonic bulb contains a capacitive dropper (SMD diodes form the bridge rectifier) with inadequate input filtering, which results in a significant amount of AC ripple on the output. This is what produces the banding effect. Incidentally, inadequate input filtering is also quite a common characteristic of cheap electronically ballasted fluorescent lamps and is why many people find them to be rather headache inducing.
I love the reel to reel intro of this video, much better quality than the trisonical light bulb! You should upload the contents of the tape if you can.
After it burns out, you can play badminton with it! 😃😩
Ha! - I called this site the ghetto Techmoan last time, so he added the reel to reel shot at the end with the ghetto Akai deck missing some parts - This guy has a great sense of humor! - awesome!
I kinda like the no radio interference feature and the fact it uses half the advertised energy usage! A suggested jingle, "You get less for your money with Trisonic!"
Its interesting how 60Hz LED bulbs shot by a rolling shutter creates an effect very similar to how 60Hz AC hum manifests in analog NTSC signals
Planned obsolescence begin with lightbulbs and its now caught up with LEDs (btw, Philips was the company that created planned obsolescence in the first place). I bought a bunch three years ago, only had one go bad. New ones probably won't last a year.
He who pays the piper calls the tune. Anarchy is the answer.
LEDs are supposed to last years and years ffs
Yoda Gates: may Microsoft Sam be with you.~
I have a Trisonic 16 foot Tape Measure that I also purchased at a Dollar Store 😀. I bought it in Jersey City 😀. It doesn't seem to have any defects. At least not yet. I guess Trisonic sells it's products to Dollar Stores 😀. Interesting videos as always 😀.
LOL, there's a reason that was sitting in a Dollar or thrift Store... But I love your videos! Keep it going!
"Tranquility is beauty. Equanimity is joy. Soi soi soi." I need to start quoting that.
I recommend you review the Cree brand LED's I bought mine when Cree first started releasing them to the market a few years ago. Mine are first generation Cree LED's and are heavy cast aluminum with large heat sink cast into them. They use actual glass bulbs with a rubber membrane over the glass to diffuse the light. 3+ years later they are going strong. One of them has been hanging exposed in a broken outdoor light fixture and is unphased by weather exposure or even cold. They were quite expensive when I bought mine and I'm not sure what they cost now but I know they are much cheaper now. I would be interested to know if the build quality is still as good as the first generation Cree LED. The light output is also fantastic can't tell any difference from incandescent at all
Love this video, love everything about it :))
Vent holes = no conical heatsink = rubbish. Just one look and you know. Only the poorest quality LEDs have vent holes.
Cool to hear Natural Sam. I'm a bit of a TTS geek.
The 375J marking is probably 3.7uF. That's an unusual value.
my god, the soisoisoi broke me
Nothing good comes in blister packing.
Everything good comes in blister packing SOI SOI SOI
With those open vents I hope nobody uses these bulbs outdoors. I bet that bulb was for stored for years and the cheap glue gun glue that held it all together has dried out.
The Bulb is made for crawl spaces where the holes on the case of the bulb point up to vent the heat,what such design :-D
I heard KMOX at 7:18 love your AM SCAN
8:28 OMG, that was so close, please be careful 🙏
Thanks for the content
And i thought the days of erotic messages on product packagings are over...wow😂
One thing about the color temperature of light is that the higher the number means that the light is less bright in terms of the amount of cool white (aka daylight type white) light it outputs. 5000K will be brighter than 6000K, and the higher the number the light appears more with a blueish to a purplish tent to it.
When he goes to the dollar store, you know something magical is going to happen
Equanimity is joy.
Soi soi soi
That Trisonic doesn't have a heatsinc on the LED's either. 2 years is a little generous...!
Big aluminium plate ... works like a heatsinc. Try to solder on these boards ... :-(
Interesting video
I have a few incandescent bulbs kicking around. I have some CFL and LED bulbs installed. Some LED fixtures that have lights built-in and can't even take a bulb have terrible 60hz flicker and I hate that. LEDs and AC power do not get along.
Get better LEDs that arent just doing half wave rectification. You should try LED filaments bulbs too.
LED bulbs can work really great if they actually add in a smoothing capacitor to the full bridge rectifier. Then you'll get a great smooth look at low energy costs. Saves on those electricity bills!
Michael O I have a vintage looking LED filament bulb and rhe flicker is horrible. The LEDs are hooked up in series with the mains.
Why in the heck does their "contains" chart look like a nutrition label!!??😂😂😂
How would these compare to the Cree LEDs? I know I've been brought up by their TV commercials, and I have a lot of bulbs in this condo replaced with Cree LEDs, and I've had a couple that almost burned out right out of the box. Most of them DID work, however, and very strongly, too.
10:14 375 means 37 and then 5 zeroes on the end (in pF) - so 3.7uF. Rating is ofc 400V.
So it seems like a simple capacitive dropper circuit with no mains isolation.
334 resistors are 33 and then 4 zeroes = 330k Ohms. Since there are two of them it looks like they are the discharge resistors across those two caps. The 330 resistors (33 and 0 zeroes = 33 ohms) are more than likely to do with the LEDs.
I think the circuitry to prevent flickering inside more expensive bulbs is what creates radio interference
yes they do more than a cap dropper and rectify, so interference is going to happen, but for normal useage it wont affect anything, unless you listen to am 1ft away from a lightbulb
Well done. There is some dangerous stuff at the dollar store. "swooof swoof swoof!"
Actually, if you calculate the 'real usage' with the power-factor you get about 12 Wattsssss... about 3 times about 4 = 12 (invert the power-factor). So it will be 'using' 12 Watts and if you put some of them parallel on for example an inverter you will notice that in the spikes they use. Actually it can be fun to use these kind of lights on a cheap inverter because the average voltage will be pretty high on the LED's and probably will stop them working in a few hours. (effect of not real sinus).
Like with a lot of chineese stuff: if the hotglue is not working anymore, just add some more to re-attach.
Nice review.
10:09 375J is 3.7 micro Farad. The third digit is a multiplier. On 375J, five means five zeros and the value is 3700000 pico Farad.
Wow those red caps are hot now on the audiophile market. People paying 800-1000 dollars for those Trisonics to grab those unique run of capacitors. They are hard to find now.
the reason for the bulb to run at 60 hz is because the dropper circuit usually is a capacitor/resistor instead of a full switching power supply.
the led bulbs are usually made up of several led chips wired in series so they can run from 50 volts dc and sometimes there are 2 or 3 parallel strings of led chips
at 4 watts that is very good power usage for an led.
the fact that the dome comes off so easy is not safe.
you should only use the trisonic bulb in a place where it is out of reach of children and even adults so you dont come in contact with the exposed connections
There are one dollar Sunbeam (which isn't an unknown or even really obscure brand) LEDs at Dollar Tree. I'd be really interested to hear your opinions on those.
Perhaps you should have tried the meter in VA mode; given the power factor, it might have read close to 12VA.
I have become very picky when it comes to LED bulbs. There are some SMD LEDs that are really good but i prefer these filament LEDs even more because of their 360° illumination range, just like their incandescent originals. However they often seem to flicker a lot in the lower Watt replacement range, like for 40 watts. While the higher ones like 60 Watt replacement are totally fine and flicker free. Pulse-width Modulation LEDs are the worst when it comes to flickering.
I wonder if the 12W version is a 240 volt bulb built using the same PC board?
375J would be 3.7uF, looks like the typical capacitor dropper circuit I've seen so many times (mainly in Big Clive's videos). You have to remember they're comparing to what would be a 100w bulb in Chinese watts, witch are a lot smaller than normal watts! I thought I was accidentally watching one of my videos at the start as I have a Reel to Reel a lot like that. Bet THAT didn't come from the dollar store!
My roflcopter goes soisoisoisoisoisoisoisoisoisoisoisoi
Good old Microsoft Sam lives on! He's even appeared on the Oddity Archive too: th-cam.com/video/-7XzCvOtEJU/w-d-xo.htmlm56s
0:28
i think the interference is the "higher than 60Hz" thing. the sylvania one runs at some frequency that interferes with the radio.
Cool I have the same scissors at home.
same 4 of them ;]
Hi Westlife, a big fan of your videos. I just have one question. The other day I was cleaning up my dad's room and came across the same Akai reel to reel you show on this video. I powered it up and it seems to work fine although I do not have any tape to go in there. However, when I found this unit, the PLAY was engaged and due to the time it has been stopped in the play more, there is a small grove caved into the rubber pinch roller from the capstan stick. Due to that, when I hit the play, its spinning with that grove makes the pinch roller jump up and down making it not an even play back. Is there a place where I can buy that pinch roller wheel? I would like to fix this up and get some tapes to go with it. I've always wanted to own a reel to reel even though it was not my era when growing up. Can you help me out to get a new rubber roller or any ideas to fix it? Look forward to your reply. Thank you so much for great informative videos, I really enjoy them.
See this video: th-cam.com/video/zXwFp4BYloY/w-d-xo.html
I love Sylvania led bulbs I own 4 2 in living room in 2 lamps one in my bathroom one my bedroom the one in my bathroom I bought frist 2nd one I bought for my bedroom and brought 2 pack for my living room yesterday
That’s ridiculous for them to claim 480 lumens is the light of a 100-watt standard light bulb-a 100-watt incandescent light bulb produces about 1600 lumens.
I like IKEA's TRÅDFRI series. Means I can have daylight when I need it, 'normal' light and a very warm light when I wan that. And the price is not terrible. Oh and now you can get them with multicolor options, "almost" a replacement for Phillips Hue.
Thanks great vid :) it's a grow-light at 6400k bro :)
Interesting. Thanks!! I need to get me a watt meter.
That trisonic should be a 40 watt equivalent. Daylight bulb, plus every 40 watt equivalent led bulb I have seen seems brighter than a 40 watt incandescent. Plastic base with air vents for cooling instead of a metal heatsink base probably also will cause lower life of the bulb. Truthfully I kinda want one of those trisonic, just to compare to other led bulbs in my table lamp, and maybe use it there just to see how long it actually lasts. The first cfl bulb I bought, before many people even knew about them, was only rated for 3 years I believe at 4 hours a day, but I got 4 years out of it at many more hours a day usage. Maybe the easily removable dome on the trisonic is so it can run and let heat escape and thus increasing it's life.
75% of the bulbs in my house are incandescent. We just replace with LED when the incandescent bulbs die
CompuTech yah my dad does the same thing
1 of the incandescent bulbs are lasting forever is like 5 year's old and it just won't die
I have a heavily used fluourecent bulb from 1992, in a mount on my wall, still working
Seems reasonable.
Yeah, that's a great idea! We currently have a ton of CFL's and some incandescents knocking around that we'll probably replace with LED's when the time comes.
VWestlife, I have a request for a video. Would you be interested in doing one on turntable cartridges and styli? For instance, can an expensive stylus make a cheap turntable sound better, gains and losses with different types, and is it actually worth spending the money to upgrade.
wow that track the beginning
The Trisonic package says on the back "contains" mercury. I thought LED bulbs did not contain mercury.
What model of R2R recorder is that? I don't think I've ever seen one with Dolby NR!
Akai 4000DB.
If i remember correctly the rating on 10:13 is 3.7UF its 37 and five 0 so it would be 3700000 pico farad which equals 3.7 UF or MFD
How many incandescent bulbs do you have stocked up?
The orange capacitor is used as current limiter ; the value should be about 1 uF, 400 Volt. The AC 120 volt goes thru it, then to the diode bridge and finally the electrolytic capacitor reduce is regulating the DC to decrease flickering. All the LED are connected in series ; 3 volt each adding to 90 volt if there is 30 LED. One resistor is probably in parallel to the electrolytic capacitor and is there to discharge it when the lamp is powered off.
Simple circuit, inefficient but creating no EMF on the AM radio. Still no as bad as if a resistor would have been used as current limiting. The capacitor can return to the grid part on the energy instead of total waste as heat like resistors do. Since most loads in a typical house are inductive, this lamp may counter balance such load and end-up improving the poor power factor.
soisoisoisoi
This should be titled “don’t buy dollar store lightbulbs”
Also not many people keep their radio right next to the light.