not viable if I may say. It´ll get way to top heavy and unstable, Only option if he really wants the solar above the hull to get shade is to make the boat a mini Tri-catamaran like extensions. Feel free to elaborate and correct me.
@@Patnik86wrong. That boat is plenty big. A small Boston whaler. The actual concern may be wind. But either way using the panels for shade is a great idea.
Man, I was telling my Dad the other day about one of your videos, and then was trying to explain the channel in general and it cracked me up. It was like "he mainly does autonomous RC stuff, but he restored a Boston Whaler boat, made this crazy printed cyclone separator, made a super powerful underwater LED, made an electric land canoe, etc etc" This has definitely become one of my favorite channels, and I really haven't even messed with anything RC since I was a teenager. Please keep doing weird interesting stuff.
hey love your videos. for next time, instead of spending ages sanding and smoothing the props, you might want to look into ABS vapour smoothing. By printing a part in ABS and suspending it above some high purity acetone, you can get a part thats as smooth as one cast in resin with very little effort. idk how strong the finished parts are, and ABS is kind of a pain to print in, but it might still be worth looking into
Might be a gamble with ABS. The PETG that Daniel used is a lot tougher, which I think is pretty important in an application such as this. Would kinda suck to crack a prop by getting too close to shore.
Daniel, FYI, I have a 12" boat with a hull much like the Whaler's. It takes close to 8hp to get that on plane with a total weight of 300kgs. That is the same as 6KW and 660lbs.
@@Hoffmanpack nothings wrong with only using one stronger motor, but he has two less powerful motors, nothings wrong with that either. You quite often see multiple engines on boats with separate propellers, especially on smaller boats. Using one or two motors doesn't change the amount of power or battery capacities he needs or the amount of solar panels he needs. Also there is no need for the propeller to be metal if a lighter material is good enough. The forces on it probably aren't all that large and plastic can handle it. There is a reason small planes don't use metal propellers, wood or carbon fibre are good enough. From what we can see in the videos there isn't anything wrong with using plastic propellers.
I designed my own wind turbine props and to get the strongest 3D printed setup. I had the props fit into the hub, through male/female slots. That way, I only changed the prop blades instead of the whole prop, and could adjust the pitch angle to find the optimal. Also, I was able to lay the blade prints down on its length, to get the strongest layer direction. .
in washington state most people on boats wave at each other, doesn’t matter if you’re in a tiny 15 footer or a big 50’ boat people are just friendly its kinda fun
Why not an overhead solar canopy? (14:30) For camping/cruising an overhead canopy (solar roof) would offer shade, and keep you dry if rains. Would offer at least 50% more solar area. Some used 60-cell solar panels could provide more power and voltage. Another alternative is vertical solar panel that could also double as a wing-sail.
I have the same problem on my underwater motor setup for windsurf board, my current limit is 30A (due to smaller motors) but it also pulls much less from the battery, VESC showed low RPM and high current, but low phase voltage so by reducing load on motors (fewer blades, less pitch props) I hope it will spin up faster and produce more power (also have higher phase voltage) for the same phase current. Will test it in a few days.
Since you have the 3D files it would be cool to send them to a manufacturer like PCBway to have them metal 3D printed, they would still need some sanding and balancing but you could make some pretty durable custom propellers!
From the picture off the VESC tool, you have only 42% duty cycle/ about 20 volts going to the motors. Your propeller is way to big. If you get the duty up to 95% 48V ( max) and still push 100A phase amps you will have 2.2x the power. Is the Amps that generates heat. So if you motors can handle 100 phase amps eatch motor at 46V will make 3740W!.
instead of just a single pushrod, you should do 2 pushrods, one on each side of the pivot. Then, there is always one under tension, and you don't have to worry about the compression forces at all. You could even use steel cable instead of threaded rods at that point.
Motors are limited by Amos not watts. If you are pulling 100amps at less than max power, you need smaller props to get up to full rpm and hence full volts.
The Makerbase 75200's are the best price I've found so far. I had the same problem with the flipsky 75100 overheating in my EZTR. @45A they can run continuous, 75A they will overheat. Also added heatsinks. Had to add fans as well.
Usually for BLDC motor the phase current is higher than battery current, especially at low RPM, as it's acting as BUCK converter. If the prop is too big or stip, you are loading the motor, requesting high current, hitiing the ESC treshold sooner. Also by keeping the same pitch on the prop and same diameter you will push the same amount of water at the same RPM, even with two fins.
What do you do with a Boston Whaler What do you do with a Boston Whaler What do you do with a Boston Whaler Early in the morning Print up some props with epoxy on them Print up some props with epoxy on them Print up some props with epoxy on them Early in the morning Power the props with a tote of LiPos Power the props with a tote of LiPos Power the props with a tote of LiPos Early in the morning Send up the drone to take some Dronies Send up the drone to take some Dronies Send up the drone to take some Dronies If you do not vomit Forget the footage then find it later Forget the footage then find it later Forget the footage then find it later Upload it to TH-cam
for the props lifting out of the water issue, I used to drive a small boat like this as a kid, I had the same problem but even sitting at the back. We ended up putting extra weight at the back. Your batteries would probably do fine but I think we used our gas tanks and some heavy chains at the time. The boat doesn't really care, it's incredible really how much weight you can carry on the water.
Hey Dan, just a point on motor voltages. Motors are not rated for a voltage. They are rated against heat buildup, which is caused by the resistive loss, I^2.R. Higher voltage does mean higher current for the same prop, but the voltage is not the issue. You could use the motors on 30S provided the prop was reduced to a smaller size.
Current draw is directly proportional to torque. If you want to increase the voltage without increasing the current, you’ll need to change the prop to spin faster / with lower torque. There’s going to be a balance between prop size and pitch to strike.
Phase current is, battery current not. Battery current represents watts as the voltage doesn't change, and watts represent work being done, just like HP does.
@@Robbedoes2 it’s pretty hard to change battery current without changing phase current. The total phase current should equal the battery current. The fixed voltage of the battery implies a maximum no-load speed for the battery-motor system, as it counters the back-emf of the spinning rotor. Doubling the battery voltage will approximately double the no-load speed, and expand the torque-speed-current curve. If a prop-motor-voltage system was designed such that the motor was operating in a region of high power output or high efficiency, increasing the voltage will shift it out of that region.
Why does water get into closed containers? This is because there is a heating element inside the container. When it cools down, the inside of the container becomes negative pressure and absorbs water.
Much like the rest of the people in this comment section, this is easily my favorite youtube channel. This was on of my favorite videos, I found the little side remarks really funny and cute (houses with boat garage, incoming seaplane, construction workers, college students, etc.). Love how this channel is technical, inspiring, humorous, and just has good vibes in general. Keep on it!
Cruising around on an autonomous boat with a drone and a submarine in a place with decent weather sounds so nice. Could you mod your submarine to be autonomous, and build some kind of launching dock for it into your boat?
Adjust your duty cycle in vesc throttle settings. It's only reaching 50% by the looks of it. Also check motor current limit and battery current limit settings to get Max RPM. I have played with the throttle curve in natural setting seems to work best with 100% top end offset
1. You need to use really thick cables and, at least, xt90 connector for 100 amps. Thinner cables limit amperage. 2. Try water-cooling ESCs. Or to use water-cooled out-of-the-box ESCs.
If you're having issues with the Flipsky 75100 overheating, consider changing from the ebike, to the aluminium shelled one, the cooling is much better. They also sell a water cooled version that would probably work pretty well for a boat.
Waving at fellow boaters is just a common thing. It's not limited to Boston Whalers. :) Gotta be friendly out on the water, because you never know when you'll need help. When someone needs help on the water, you do what you can no matter what, so I think the waving is just an extension of that. On the water, we're all friends? I've been on the first boat to show up to a sinking boat twice in all my years on the water, and you just do what you can until more help shows up.
In my experience, its generally safe to go a little beyond the "max voltage rating" of the motors. So 24cell is probably OK, if that means you can just throw 2 12cell packs in series instead of a custom 20 cell pack. Also make sure your ESCs can handle that voltage too. But, its always a risk to go outside of spec. That also means you will likely have less loss due to resistance through wires.
It’d be interesting to see how well you could get a position hold working. Digital anchor. With reversible thrust and differential thrust I’d imagine it’d be pretty good. At least within the GPS accuracy limitations.
I was watching a superfastmatt video about speed week at the Bonneville salt flats, and one of the EV teams there was running a 98s2p battery. I think you should give that a shot
I get the feeling there might be a bit of crossover between the 2 channels, different categories but similar approaches. Who knows maybe one day we will get a crossover?
Try some car base filler spray. I was able to polish it to almost like molded plastic finish. Just using sandpaper and some water and going up in the grit (the next grit is always times two).
Hey, if you ever get bored which almost surely is unlikely I have an idea for a video you could consider. I've been flying RC planes since 1978 when planes were self assembled from kits and covered in Monocote, but I more or less quit around 2011 when FVP and programable flight controllers were at their infancy. Recently I got the RC bug again and would like to try out programmed missions, but I am very behind the eight ball on what aside from motor, speed controller, servos, and receiver is at minimum needed to bring about programmed flight. So, in the event of overwheming boredom a nice little tutorial for antique flyers such as myself to give us a good hint on how to start out with the kit needed beyond what simply flys the plane would be most welcome.
It would be possible to further improve your installation by adding floats under the outer end of the solar panels, which would improve the stability of your boat and avoid putting too much force on the fixings, moreover it would allow to have a navigation a bit more energetic in the event of an emergency maneuver.
Waving is pretty common to do between boaters in various regions. The part of Massachusetts I'm from, everyone does it regardless of the boat. Other areas I've been, no one does it.
You can design your propeller to suit your motor, boat and desired speed with the Bserie propeller generator. Did you test a the prop before and after the sanding? I am wondering how much is the impact
@rctestflight I was so happy to see the OPDS ship @ 5:24 - that is the USN MSC OPDS Ship "K.R Wheeler" If I'm not mistaken, at least the last time I saw that shark face amphib, thats the ship it was on! I last saw it in Buson, SK back when I was in the Navy! Awesome ship, and those big wheels carry hoses for moving fuel from ship to shore :)
To reduse the cavitation from the props, put a cavitationplate over the props. That will "kill" the circulation cavitation from the props. That way you'll get a little more speed aswell.
Those VESC 75100s have issues with performance. Apparently there may be an issue with the regulator chips in them which causes them to heat up rapidly. My friend tested 8W draw from the STM chip. An aggressive cooling solution or an electric reverse engineering solution may do the job. Most people I've known to try them cap at 2kW, any higher blows them out. Old video, I know. Kelly Motor Controllers, or other VESCs besides the 75/100 are pretty good options for better performing motor controllers. In the 2-12kW range, I think Kelly is pretty solid. Above 12kW Sabvotron, BAC, and Votol have been pretty well represented. There are some people who make low-production high-performance motor controllers, but they're typically for electric motorcycles.
Idea for cooling. What about a raw water cooling system where you use the water avalible where you float to cool down the controllers, as a outboard will do? This can archive with a small fishtank water pump or even using the movement of the boat to circulate water? Its actually simpler than it sounds, my small rc toy speed boat has a similar cooling system that doesn't have a pump and it works amazingly well and yet simple. It has a ventury nozzle on the bottom the hull to suck the water. Another very inspiring video on your channel
You spend a lot of time reinventing the wheel, everyday. Mercury Kiekhaefer is a good starting point for efficient legs and props. It is great to watch you mature from models and toys, to usable machines. Painfully slow, best to check in every 6 months or so. The Whaler is a nice little inland waters cruiser. Not much use as a fishing boat or in 15 knot winds. Waiting for you to keep going, scaling your system up?
13:30 you wont be able to get more power by just increasing the Input voltage. This way you only gonna end up with the same 100A Phase current but with like around 25% duty Cycle. If you want to maximize the Power output you gotta decrease the load on the props by a smaller diameter and/or smaller pitch so that they meet 100A at the highest possible duty Cycle, like 90-95%. And my guess is that you would need around 15 kW to get this thing to plane 😄 ps you can Control the vescs over adc with a normal ebike throttle or just a simple poti. Great work!
The boat wave is a thing. No idea why or what the history is but everyone waves to everyone else. Can be quite funny transiting through high traffic areas where you will get tons of waves
the water maybe from the electrical cable running from your motor the the controller. the magnetic field is pulling the water(minerals in the water) thru the conduct.
All of a sudden I find myself wishing I was an embedded systems engineer. Actually, I've always wanted to do embedded systems, but I got a software engineering degree and have been doing pure software ever since. I hope you find your guy and I look forward to seeing the epic things you design and fabricate in the future.
@@Hoffmanpack In the current job market, I think it would be hard to find a job which would pay anything close to what I'm currently making, especially when you factor in that I don't have any meaningful embedded systems experience.
If you're looking for a mineral oil that's intended to go into a sealed system with o-rings, get some Shimano or Tektro mineral oil for bicycle hydraulic brakes. Don't get SRAM or Hope brake fluid as this is DOT and will most definitely destroy the o-rings.
information 2:58 it can be seen that in this sort of application, the inrunner bldc is loaded via mechanical DIS-advantage; over the load that occurs across the swept radius/diameter of the prop. the force produced by a motor is 'created' at the (internal) Radius, where magnets and coils move past one another. the use of an inrunner motor is, therefore, problematic where the load occurs at a radius that is greater-than the radius of the motor's rotor. d
I'm wondering what the relation is between engine power and propeller surface. There is a sweet spot somewhere where the drag and pushing force are optimal
funny suggestion for some sort of a challenge: get a somewhat larger boat. how long can you stay on your boat? (short trips to the land are either allowed or forbidden). at least 1 3D-printer on the boat for quick repairs. supplies to the boat need to be flown in with a self-made quadcopter, extra points if you don't need a person on shore but you can order supplies to a pier, where the delivery person just sticks them into the quadcopter and have a little airfare for the last leg of the transport. just saying, could be fun.
What if you made a heat sink fin that just stuck right into the water? That way you could get some cooling without as much parasitic loss as a mechanical pump.
If you top out your motors to 100Amps, spinning it for higher RPM will require more Amps, increasing voltage will not help. You may want reduce propeller pitch, or size, or both to let motor to rev it higher, and then you 'll hit your 100Amps current at some higher voltage, with higher power. But keep in mind, that going too far away from 0.7..1.4 diameter to pitch ratio will decrease efficiency, so hawing it consume more power does not necessarily mean you will have more speed.
If you're maxing out the phase current, that means you need to increase the RPM, because the back-EMF generated by the motor is proportional to the RPM, and that directly affects the maximum voltage you can feed the motor. By increasing the RPM, you increase the motor voltage, and since you've got a fixed motor current, increasing the voltage is the only way to increase the wattage. "But I'm using a battery of X volts," you may cry. "Isn't that the motor voltage?" Excellent question, no it is not! The ESC acts as a DC-DC converter, taking higher voltage and lower current from the battery, and converting it to lower voltage, higher current to feed the motor. The voltage and current it feeds to the motor changes dynamically according to your settings and the load applied to the motor. High load at low RPM (high torque) requires a high current, but a low voltage, causing you to hit the current limit well before you hit your power limit. Raising the RPM will allow the motor voltage to be higher, thus allowing higher power. "Wait" you say, "DC-DC converters need an inductor to work, and these ESCs have none!" Well, you're right, but the motor itself acts as the inductor. Switching to a prop of a lower pitch, or smaller diameter, or fewer blades, or some combo thereof, should help, although a higher prop speed may reduce your hydrodynamic efficiency.
it would be awesome to tie a scale around a tree and to your boat in the water and test the different propellers you made and see a graph that shows watt consumption and the pounds thrust they produce to know what one produces the most pounds thrust per watt. and to see how the thrust of each one differs at different rpm.
That's a very good idea - I think a wrist strap is the usual method for surfers, jet skis etc.. but that's inconvenient when you're moving around on the boat doing stuff. A bluetooth wristwatch kind of solution could work if the BT watch signal is lost then the motor stops, or turns around to find you.
It's wild seeing someone print a prop and not immediately jump into the toroidal prop thing. Although if you're burning up those motors now the extra torque probably won't help.
As you start to increase the combined battery voltage above 50Vdc, please promise us you will start to take more measures to protect yourself from electrocution!
If you rebuild the solar array on this thing you should really give yourself some shade with those panels.
not viable if I may say. It´ll get way to top heavy and unstable, Only option if he really wants the solar above the hull to get shade is to make the boat a mini Tri-catamaran like extensions.
Feel free to elaborate and correct me.
@@Patnik86wrong. That boat is plenty big. A small Boston whaler. The actual concern may be wind. But either way using the panels for shade is a great idea.
@@thebarkingmousehigh center of mass is a problem for any boat.
@@davidaugustofc2574these whaler hulls are heavy as hell. I've seen them running with a full size roof.
@@Patnik86they literally have a factory top option😂. Wouldn’t be hard to place them on top. Also this is a tri hull. It’s extremely stable.
Man, I was telling my Dad the other day about one of your videos, and then was trying to explain the channel in general and it cracked me up. It was like "he mainly does autonomous RC stuff, but he restored a Boston Whaler boat, made this crazy printed cyclone separator, made a super powerful underwater LED, made an electric land canoe, etc etc"
This has definitely become one of my favorite channels, and I really haven't even messed with anything RC since I was a teenager. Please keep doing weird interesting stuff.
Same I used to build drones like 5 years ago. Now I'm into boats lol
Totally agree, I love this channel!
It's extremely difficult to explain to people why this is one of the best channels on TH-cam... *But it just is!*
So agreed. I'm always excited to see a new upload here, usually a lot more so than any "flashier" or more "mainstream" channel.
@@lexvelarde3199same here, i always go nuts when a video releases. especially when it’s a boat video
@@boogiehasfun Planes... you mean plane videos right? Right?
@@carveroutdoors nope, boats. i do enjoy both though.
I think it's the endurance thing he does, he's an awsome guy but there is somthing so fascinating about machines testing and endurance
hey love your videos. for next time, instead of spending ages sanding and smoothing the props, you might want to look into ABS vapour smoothing. By printing a part in ABS and suspending it above some high purity acetone, you can get a part thats as smooth as one cast in resin with very little effort. idk how strong the finished parts are, and ABS is kind of a pain to print in, but it might still be worth looking into
Might be a gamble with ABS. The PETG that Daniel used is a lot tougher, which I think is pretty important in an application such as this. Would kinda suck to crack a prop by getting too close to shore.
@@KnowledgePerformance7 ABS is pretty impact resistant so it could be an option. Maybe ASA would be better?
Daniel, FYI, I have a 12" boat with a hull much like the Whaler's. It takes close to 8hp to get that on plane with a total weight of 300kgs. That is the same as 6KW and 660lbs.
Both motors running at 3700 W is a total of 7400 W. The weight may be an issue though with all those batteries.
12" - a real Spinal Tap Stonehenge comment😉
@@conorstewart2214 yea whats wrong with one motor and a real propeller made of metal?
@@Hoffmanpack nothings wrong with only using one stronger motor, but he has two less powerful motors, nothings wrong with that either. You quite often see multiple engines on boats with separate propellers, especially on smaller boats.
Using one or two motors doesn't change the amount of power or battery capacities he needs or the amount of solar panels he needs.
Also there is no need for the propeller to be metal if a lighter material is good enough. The forces on it probably aren't all that large and plastic can handle it. There is a reason small planes don't use metal propellers, wood or carbon fibre are good enough. From what we can see in the videos there isn't anything wrong with using plastic propellers.
Been using a 3d printed propeller on my diy petrol to 3KW electric converted outboard motor for a while now and works great!
I designed my own wind turbine props and to get the strongest 3D printed setup. I had the props fit into the hub, through male/female slots.
That way, I only changed the prop blades instead of the whole prop, and could adjust the pitch angle to find the optimal.
Also, I was able to lay the blade prints down on its length, to get the strongest layer direction. .
in washington state most people on boats wave at each other, doesn’t matter if you’re in a tiny 15 footer or a big 50’ boat people are just friendly its kinda fun
Why not an overhead solar canopy? (14:30)
For camping/cruising an overhead canopy (solar roof) would offer shade, and keep you dry if rains. Would offer at least 50% more solar area. Some used 60-cell solar panels could provide more power and voltage.
Another alternative is vertical solar panel that could also double as a wing-sail.
I have the same problem on my underwater motor setup for windsurf board, my current limit is 30A (due to smaller motors) but it also pulls much less from the battery, VESC showed low RPM and high current, but low phase voltage so by reducing load on motors (fewer blades, less pitch props) I hope it will spin up faster and produce more power (also have higher phase voltage) for the same phase current. Will test it in a few days.
Since you have the 3D files it would be cool to send them to a manufacturer like PCBway to have them metal 3D printed, they would still need some sanding and balancing but you could make some pretty durable custom propellers!
For your safety, is it a wise idea to implement a killswitch, like they are implemented on an outboard (for when you fall overboard)?
Isn’t that what the deadman switch is all about, which you can see in the beginning. I mean the sound the Remote makes for him to move it.
You’re making going overboard sound inevitable… you’re right.
and to start wearing a life jacket already
@@ImDelphoxat least like a small comfy one
@@BillyElliot1998yeah but if you have to wait till that inactivity switch activates then you could already be dead
You're really great at being clear and deliberate with how you present the things you're doing, keep it up!
6:58 - could be more clear on which magic parameter was tuned.. 🤓
Thanks for posting this video! Have been looking forward to it and wondered if it had been ditched 😄
From the picture off the VESC tool, you have only 42% duty cycle/ about 20 volts going to the motors. Your propeller is way to big. If you get the duty up to 95% 48V ( max) and still push 100A phase amps you will have 2.2x the power. Is the Amps that generates heat. So if you motors can handle 100 phase amps eatch motor at 46V will make 3740W!.
This info is pure gold for Vesc users! I learned that the tedious way setting up my 4x vesc hub skateboard.
instead of just a single pushrod, you should do 2 pushrods, one on each side of the pivot. Then, there is always one under tension, and you don't have to worry about the compression forces at all. You could even use steel cable instead of threaded rods at that point.
Motors are limited by Amos not watts.
If you are pulling 100amps at less than max power, you need smaller props to get up to full rpm and hence full volts.
weird way to say it, could barely comprehend, but yes
The Makerbase 75200's are the best price I've found so far. I had the same problem with the flipsky 75100 overheating in my EZTR. @45A they can run continuous, 75A they will overheat. Also added heatsinks. Had to add fans as well.
Usually for BLDC motor the phase current is higher than battery current, especially at low RPM, as it's acting as BUCK converter. If the prop is too big or stip, you are loading the motor, requesting high current, hitiing the ESC treshold sooner. Also by keeping the same pitch on the prop and same diameter you will push the same amount of water at the same RPM, even with two fins.
What do you do with a Boston Whaler
What do you do with a Boston Whaler
What do you do with a Boston Whaler
Early in the morning
Print up some props with epoxy on them
Print up some props with epoxy on them
Print up some props with epoxy on them
Early in the morning
Power the props with a tote of LiPos
Power the props with a tote of LiPos
Power the props with a tote of LiPos
Early in the morning
Send up the drone to take some Dronies
Send up the drone to take some Dronies
Send up the drone to take some Dronies
If you do not vomit
Forget the footage then find it later
Forget the footage then find it later
Forget the footage then find it later
Upload it to TH-cam
for the props lifting out of the water issue, I used to drive a small boat like this as a kid, I had the same problem but even sitting at the back.
We ended up putting extra weight at the back. Your batteries would probably do fine but I think we used our gas tanks and some heavy chains at the time.
The boat doesn't really care, it's incredible really how much weight you can carry on the water.
Hey Dan, just a point on motor voltages. Motors are not rated for a voltage. They are rated against heat buildup, which is caused by the resistive loss, I^2.R. Higher voltage does mean higher current for the same prop, but the voltage is not the issue. You could use the motors on 30S provided the prop was reduced to a smaller size.
Current draw is directly proportional to torque. If you want to increase the voltage without increasing the current, you’ll need to change the prop to spin faster / with lower torque. There’s going to be a balance between prop size and pitch to strike.
Phase current is, battery current not. Battery current represents watts as the voltage doesn't change, and watts represent work being done, just like HP does.
@@Robbedoes2 it’s pretty hard to change battery current without changing phase current. The total phase current should equal the battery current. The fixed voltage of the battery implies a maximum no-load speed for the battery-motor system, as it counters the back-emf of the spinning rotor. Doubling the battery voltage will approximately double the no-load speed, and expand the torque-speed-current curve. If a prop-motor-voltage system was designed such that the motor was operating in a region of high power output or high efficiency, increasing the voltage will shift it out of that region.
Why does water get into closed containers?
This is because there is a heating element inside the container.
When it cools down, the inside of the container becomes negative pressure and absorbs water.
Having a drone is like having Minecraft Freecam in real life :D What great shots!
use a concentric interface pattern for the supports on the prop and you won't have to do nearly as much post processing
Much like the rest of the people in this comment section, this is easily my favorite youtube channel. This was on of my favorite videos, I found the little side remarks really funny and cute (houses with boat garage, incoming seaplane, construction workers, college students, etc.). Love how this channel is technical, inspiring, humorous, and just has good vibes in general. Keep on it!
I really wish he would wear a life jacket. Trouble happens fast and when you least expect it and trouble on the water can be deadly.
Cruising around on an autonomous boat with a drone and a submarine in a place with decent weather sounds so nice.
Could you mod your submarine to be autonomous, and build some kind of launching dock for it into your boat?
Adjust your duty cycle in vesc throttle settings. It's only reaching 50% by the looks of it. Also check motor current limit and battery current limit settings to get Max RPM. I have played with the throttle curve in natural setting seems to work best with 100% top end offset
1. You need to use really thick cables and, at least, xt90 connector for 100 amps. Thinner cables limit amperage.
2. Try water-cooling ESCs. Or to use water-cooled out-of-the-box ESCs.
"for you hardcore rctestflight fans" yeah I can totally relate, thanks for posting the video
Always looking forward to the next videos, super interesting series and I can’t wait for the next one!
Maybe try adding an aerodynamic nosecone to the front so the so the boat can cut through the water easier
If you're having issues with the Flipsky 75100 overheating, consider changing from the ebike, to the aluminium shelled one, the cooling is much better. They also sell a water cooled version that would probably work pretty well for a boat.
and just seen that that is exactly what you did!
Waving at fellow boaters is just a common thing. It's not limited to Boston Whalers. :) Gotta be friendly out on the water, because you never know when you'll need help. When someone needs help on the water, you do what you can no matter what, so I think the waving is just an extension of that. On the water, we're all friends? I've been on the first boat to show up to a sinking boat twice in all my years on the water, and you just do what you can until more help shows up.
In my experience, its generally safe to go a little beyond the "max voltage rating" of the motors. So 24cell is probably OK, if that means you can just throw 2 12cell packs in series instead of a custom 20 cell pack. Also make sure your ESCs can handle that voltage too. But, its always a risk to go outside of spec.
That also means you will likely have less loss due to resistance through wires.
It’d be interesting to see how well you could get a position hold working. Digital anchor. With reversible thrust and differential thrust I’d imagine it’d be pretty good. At least within the GPS accuracy limitations.
ardupilot boat has some decent position hold mode now, like one designed to keep place in a flowing river so yeah it should be doable today
I was watching a superfastmatt video about speed week at the Bonneville salt flats, and one of the EV teams there was running a 98s2p battery. I think you should give that a shot
I get the feeling there might be a bit of crossover between the 2 channels, different categories but similar approaches.
Who knows maybe one day we will get a crossover?
400v yikes. More volts = less wiring mass but I wonder if that's too much voltage to use around water/humidity?
@@confuseatronicacommercially available EV boats definitely use voltages that high. You seal the batteries, cables, etc of course
Thanks for the sneak peek at your long range journey in this rediscovered vid, looking forward to that one.
Great video. Thanks for deciding to share it.
try casein graphene plastic, diy, heated milk vinegar mix in blender with graphite into graphene plastic, dry out, melt at 350C press cast
I absolutely love how the boat looks with wires and batteries and sh*t everywhere, this isn't an insult or anything, I really love it
Try some car base filler spray. I was able to polish it to almost like molded plastic finish. Just using sandpaper and some water and going up in the grit (the next grit is always times two).
"I used fairing compound!" is going to end up being your "micromesh with its own grit system" isn't it
Hey, if you ever get bored which almost surely is unlikely I have an idea for a video you could consider.
I've been flying RC planes since 1978 when planes were self assembled from kits and covered in Monocote, but I more or less quit around 2011 when FVP and programable flight controllers were at their infancy.
Recently I got the RC bug again and would like to try out programmed missions, but I am very behind the eight ball on what aside from motor, speed controller, servos, and receiver is at minimum needed to bring about programmed flight.
So, in the event of overwheming boredom a nice little tutorial for antique flyers such as myself to give us a good hint on how to start out with the kit needed beyond what simply flys the plane would be most welcome.
It would be possible to further improve your installation by adding floats under the outer end of the solar panels, which would improve the stability of your boat and avoid putting too much force on the fixings, moreover it would allow to have a navigation a bit more energetic in the event of an emergency maneuver.
Waving is pretty common to do between boaters in various regions. The part of Massachusetts I'm from, everyone does it regardless of the boat. Other areas I've been, no one does it.
You can design your propeller to suit your motor, boat and desired speed with the Bserie propeller generator. Did you test a the prop before and after the sanding? I am wondering how much is the impact
After the smoothing/sanding the props, maybe make a silicon mold and cast them in resin. You can really knock them out that way.
@rctestflight I was so happy to see the OPDS ship @ 5:24 - that is the USN MSC OPDS Ship "K.R Wheeler" If I'm not mistaken, at least the last time I saw that shark face amphib, thats the ship it was on! I last saw it in Buson, SK back when I was in the Navy! Awesome ship, and those big wheels carry hoses for moving fuel from ship to shore :)
Nice, for next set of props, you can use uv curing epoxy ( like the one you 3d print with ) to add the weight evenly and balance your props!
To reduse the cavitation from the props, put a cavitationplate over the props. That will "kill" the circulation cavitation from the props. That way you'll get a little more speed aswell.
How about upping the wire size. They may help with the voltage sag. Like even the conductors from the vesc to the motor bullet plugs.
I agree with the one guy, you should give yourself some shade. Some pvc pipes and a tarp or something
Those VESC 75100s have issues with performance. Apparently there may be an issue with the regulator chips in them which causes them to heat up rapidly. My friend tested 8W draw from the STM chip. An aggressive cooling solution or an electric reverse engineering solution may do the job. Most people I've known to try them cap at 2kW, any higher blows them out. Old video, I know.
Kelly Motor Controllers, or other VESCs besides the 75/100 are pretty good options for better performing motor controllers. In the 2-12kW range, I think Kelly is pretty solid. Above 12kW Sabvotron, BAC, and Votol have been pretty well represented. There are some people who make low-production high-performance motor controllers, but they're typically for electric motorcycles.
you need a gantry to connect your brackets overhead, then you dont have to delicately lower your panels. if you slip it's game over
What about water cooling the FETs using a pump to force water through holes drilled through the heatsinks?
Idea for cooling. What about a raw water cooling system where you use the water avalible where you float to cool down the controllers, as a outboard will do?
This can archive with a small fishtank water pump or even using the movement of the boat to circulate water? Its actually simpler than it sounds, my small rc toy speed boat has a similar cooling system that doesn't have a pump and it works amazingly well and yet simple. It has a ventury nozzle on the bottom the hull to suck the water.
Another very inspiring video on your channel
Where can I buy the sour cream epoxy used in this video?
You spend a lot of time reinventing the wheel, everyday. Mercury Kiekhaefer is a good starting point for efficient legs and props. It is great to watch you mature from models and toys, to usable machines. Painfully slow, best to check in every 6 months or so. The Whaler is a nice little inland waters cruiser. Not much use as a fishing boat or in 15 knot winds. Waiting for you to keep going, scaling your system up?
13:30 you wont be able to get more power by just increasing the Input voltage. This way you only gonna end up with the same 100A Phase current but with like around 25% duty Cycle. If you want to maximize the Power output you gotta decrease the load on the props by a smaller diameter and/or smaller pitch so that they meet 100A at the highest possible duty Cycle, like 90-95%. And my guess is that you would need around 15 kW to get this thing to plane 😄 ps you can Control the vescs over adc with a normal ebike throttle or just a simple poti. Great work!
Hmmm...
...in such applications i would give a shot to high hardness TPU as it has way better layer adhesion, and stands up better to repeated stress.
The boat wave is a thing. No idea why or what the history is but everyone waves to everyone else. Can be quite funny transiting through high traffic areas where you will get tons of waves
"Hopefully the fragrance doesn't dissolve the o-rings in the motor. We'll see!" -- That about sums up why I love this channel.
the water maybe from the electrical cable running from your motor the the controller. the magnetic field is pulling the water(minerals in the water) thru the conduct.
See if you can throw on or model a torqueedo prop, they are super efficient, but want a lower rpm to avoid any cavitation.
"For you hard-core rctestflight fans" I've never felt so acknowledged
You should get one of those laptop mounts they have for desks.
Have you ever considered a solar panel T top or bimini? Would give you some shade and keep your panels further from the water.
Sounds like a challenge! Getting it on plane with printed props and batteries.
All of a sudden I find myself wishing I was an embedded systems engineer. Actually, I've always wanted to do embedded systems, but I got a software engineering degree and have been doing pure software ever since.
I hope you find your guy and I look forward to seeing the epic things you design and fabricate in the future.
why would it be too difficult for you to port over?
@@Hoffmanpack In the current job market, I think it would be hard to find a job which would pay anything close to what I'm currently making, especially when you factor in that I don't have any meaningful embedded systems experience.
wonder if you could use the lake water to cool things by like scooping it up with like a pump and some tubing
You are such a Legend, daniel!
If you're looking for a mineral oil that's intended to go into a sealed system with o-rings, get some Shimano or Tektro mineral oil for bicycle hydraulic brakes. Don't get SRAM or Hope brake fluid as this is DOT and will most definitely destroy the o-rings.
information 2:58 it can be seen that in this sort of application, the inrunner bldc is loaded via mechanical DIS-advantage; over the load that occurs across the swept radius/diameter of the prop. the force produced by a motor is 'created' at the (internal) Radius, where magnets and coils move past one another. the use of an inrunner motor is, therefore, problematic where the load occurs at a radius that is greater-than the radius of the motor's rotor. d
hardcore rctestflight fan here, thanks for the video!
Love your content. I even watch your commercials and outdated, unfinished episodes. Cheers!
I'm wondering what the relation is between engine power and propeller surface. There is a sweet spot somewhere where the drag and pushing force are optimal
Can you make some sort of simple water cooled heat exchanger to keep your motors cooler ?
Best series ever
Always waiting for ur videos
You can also use a voltage multiplir
Hello Daniel. So was the mineral oil in the electric motor a good idea after all ? no problem with the sealing or something else with time ?
Thank you. This are the kind of videos I like you to post 😀
funny suggestion for some sort of a challenge: get a somewhat larger boat. how long can you stay on your boat? (short trips to the land are either allowed or forbidden).
at least 1 3D-printer on the boat for quick repairs.
supplies to the boat need to be flown in with a self-made quadcopter, extra points if you don't need a person on shore but you can order supplies to a pier, where the delivery person just sticks them into the quadcopter and have a little airfare for the last leg of the transport.
just saying, could be fun.
Interested in helping ya. I do understand the "electromagnetic stuff" you mentioned, and also embedded systems.
Editing on final cut like a real man.. respect
If they are in the water should it be seahorse power?
You should get yourself a radio-controlled airplane prop balancer for balancing your props
Dose it work under water?
He did an experiment with air and water props. An air prop vibrated badly under water, but was fine out of the water.
@@ionstorm66 you balance your props in the air not in the water balancing a prop is the same for an airplane or a boat
@@robertheinkel6225 you can use the same mechanism to balance a propeller for a boat the same as an airplane
@@jamesturncliff5960 nope you have to hydro test water props. Air balance is entirely different.
Water cooled heatsinks for the motors?? Or even just dip the fins in water :)
What if you made a heat sink fin that just stuck right into the water? That way you could get some cooling without as much parasitic loss as a mechanical pump.
If you top out your motors to 100Amps, spinning it for higher RPM will require more Amps, increasing voltage will not help. You may want reduce propeller pitch, or size, or both to let motor to rev it higher, and then you 'll hit your 100Amps current at some higher voltage, with higher power. But keep in mind, that going too far away from 0.7..1.4 diameter to pitch ratio will decrease efficiency, so hawing it consume more power does not necessarily mean you will have more speed.
They usually sell unscented baby oil right next to the scented baby oil. Or you could just go buy a big ass thing of mineral oil from any pharmacy.
I always thought there was a missing video from the boat build and here it is!
If you're maxing out the phase current, that means you need to increase the RPM, because the back-EMF generated by the motor is proportional to the RPM, and that directly affects the maximum voltage you can feed the motor.
By increasing the RPM, you increase the motor voltage, and since you've got a fixed motor current, increasing the voltage is the only way to increase the wattage.
"But I'm using a battery of X volts," you may cry. "Isn't that the motor voltage?"
Excellent question, no it is not! The ESC acts as a DC-DC converter, taking higher voltage and lower current from the battery, and converting it to lower voltage, higher current to feed the motor. The voltage and current it feeds to the motor changes dynamically according to your settings and the load applied to the motor. High load at low RPM (high torque) requires a high current, but a low voltage, causing you to hit the current limit well before you hit your power limit. Raising the RPM will allow the motor voltage to be higher, thus allowing higher power.
"Wait" you say, "DC-DC converters need an inductor to work, and these ESCs have none!"
Well, you're right, but the motor itself acts as the inductor.
Switching to a prop of a lower pitch, or smaller diameter, or fewer blades, or some combo thereof, should help, although a higher prop speed may reduce your hydrodynamic efficiency.
it would be awesome to tie a scale around a tree and to your boat in the water and test the different propellers you made and see a graph that shows watt consumption and the pounds thrust they produce to know what one produces the most pounds thrust per watt. and to see how the thrust of each one differs at different rpm.
If you need mineral oil in bulk head over to your local farm store and get some horse laxative. Much cheaper, and you can get it by the gallon.
Just a thought Daniel: Do you have any sort of "Dead Man's Pedal" in case you fall overboard while you're in autonomous mode?
That's a very good idea - I think a wrist strap is the usual method for surfers, jet skis etc.. but that's inconvenient when you're moving around on the boat doing stuff.
A bluetooth wristwatch kind of solution could work if the BT watch signal is lost then the motor stops, or turns around to find you.
@@ahaveland 17 seconds in
It's wild seeing someone print a prop and not immediately jump into the toroidal prop thing. Although if you're burning up those motors now the extra torque probably won't help.
As you start to increase the combined battery voltage above 50Vdc, please promise us you will start to take more measures to protect yourself from electrocution!