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I wish TH-camrs would do more research on the sponsors they choose. Wargaming is one of the worst companies with tons or PR problems. TH-camrs who were part of the CC (Community Contributor program) did a massive walk out in 2021 but seems like the internet forgot. I cannot support someone who supports companies like this, you are part of the problem.
Stop, rclifeon and him will team up and make a ground-effect hydrofoil solar powered boat and crash the shipping industry with high speed infinite range 3D printed dinghies.
Your evolution as an engineer, video editor, and project story teller, from early days of flying planes around your parents yard to electric boat admiral, never fail to amaze me.
The narrating sounds like he went with the first take on everything, and forgot what part was coming next Otherwise love the videos, engineering is killer, great hands on skill
The boat looks fantastic, I wonder if there’s interactions with water turbulence or if the pitch is too high for the current speed of the boat causing a little bit of vibrations. Maybe try adding those small outboard hydrofoil/anti cavitation plates?
Thanks! Turbulence coming from the hull seems likely. Maybe I need a wing/cavitation plate to separate the flow. Definitely going to try lower pitch prop too
Just a tip on set screws on shafts is putting a dimple on the shaft with a drill bit , tighten the set screw and then run another set screw on top of the first ! It’s done in the heavy equipment industry all the time and never fails !!!
Your youtube journey has been phenomenal, Daniel. That's a lot of hard work, but great to see you enjoying the fruits of your labour's. I can only imagine what the typical, "how much range does it have?" Bystander would say about a 3d printed drive train with autopilot. You crack me up. I love your boat too.
Sorry tried to click the read more tab but stupid touch screens had me thumbsing down which i didn't want so i undid many times to retry to read comment and left an thumbs up just in case for algorithm of comments:)
Nice project. Maybe if you are worried about vibrations damaging servo, you could think of some tpu damper between servo horn and linkages, so it isnt stiffly coupled. Looks like it wouldnt affect precision of steering in any measurable way, but could dampen those vibrations.
Love your nautical adventures, Daniel! I absolutely love that you get in over your head on projects but always power through -- that boat project looked like a nightmare and you made it happen. I bet it feels good to be in it!
I've been following you since you were flying crappy foam planes out of your parents upstairs window. Your journey continues to amaze me and I can't wait to see how this project evolves. Amazing work sir 🤘
That rubber piece in the prop is called a hub. Should you kit a rock, it breaks from the splined shaft to save the lower unit (gear case) Also, you should crimp the battery cables lug.
So was I lol. I use volunteer with the axillary coast guard. On a rescue in 30 mph we sheared 1 of the hubs on 1 of 150hp Johnson outboards. It made us a liability instead of being the help.
Your videos have totally inspired me to do the same thing. I bought a big ass LiFePO battery and a trolling motor and built a frame to mount it on my inflatable canoe. Spent the summer cruising the waterways in my country every few weekends. My build was much less DIY, I just shilled out the money for ready made parts, since I don't need autopilot or stuff like that. Cruising around the waterways is the most calming, satisfying thing ever, highly recommend. Thanks for putting out these videos, they're always a joy to watch!
So glad to see you went this direction. The magic of TH-cam for me is watching someone else work through very similar ideas to what I am working on. I can attest to the resilience of PETG (mine connects the motors to the boat’s helm). It is not underwater, but has been in all the elements over the past three seasons.
Dude, I’m so impressed with the quality of work and engineering you used to build your boat. It’s unparalleled on TH-cam thus far. I will say, you might want to consider simplifying the mechanisms and linkages to make it easily repairable on the go. I’d also recommend a PWM between your battery and motors as it will reduce the amp draw on your battery over time, since motors generally use higher amps than they convert to power at lower speeds, and the remainder of the energy is converted into thermal energy. A PWM will mitigate that issue considerably, increasing effective range by about 20%. The other thing I’d recommend is having a couple small Amazon kayak sails for $20 (the kind that looks like a circle). They only work downwind, but in the event of a motor failure, you’ll have a way to get back to the boat ramp without breaking too much of a sweat. You could also install some dual purpose oar-locks for rowing the boat, or use them to hold fishing poles or GoPro mounts. You did great in designing redundancy into the systems! Definitely get a waterproof laptop for the next voyages! I was terrified for your Dell watching this video. Especially if you have any important data and calibration software for the boat that might make it unusable without it. You have to name it! Name idea: Arr Sea 🌊
I'm absolutely in envy of the gorgeous area of Washington you're in and the time/ability to work on so many projects. Thanks for sharing your work with us. I'll live vicariously through these until I can finally move out west
I am in awe of your motivation. Thanks also for showing the fails along with the wins. I’ve got six months of a few hours a week working on a large 3D Printed Project. I’ve hit the Meh stage. Your videos are helping to restore my motivation.
What an awesome project dude! I can’t believe how fast you model and produce parts for that thing. You say it’s the 3D printing that is the magic behind the rapid prototyping, but I think the magic is how insanely skilled you are at coming up with a design in your head, adapting it to use the parts you have on hand, and then putting it all together into a creative solution. Well done sir! 👏
I work a lot with pixhawk flight controllers, it's best to do your gyro/compass calibrations away from large concrete and metal structures, and it might also help to place the here2 gps puck on a small mast somewhere away from other electronics/ sources of EMI. Awesome project, waiting for the next video in the series!
I grew up in Seattle on lake Washington, swinging on that exact rope all summer long. I always dreamed of building a powered boat to launch around Fremont, never really happened. But i can live vicariously through you, watching these videos makes me very happy. Thanks man!
This boat and your overall effort are impressive in so many ways. Old mariners like myself believe there is only one right way to build and repair boats. And that is usually true. Things like galvonic corrosion and wind can easily be overlooked by newbies. That being said you did a good job applying new tech to old school boat. I really hope you give those motors a chance at recommended voltage and 2X the recommended amperage available. I know...expensive controllers and batteries! I actually love the batteries you have, you just need more of them. Once you have all that power you truly appreciate the motors you have. Tiny props spinning like mad, low amps at any speed, and a displacement hull flying on the props. Sounds like fun to me. I have faith in you. I'll check back later.
Hey there! I see you have two of the same props on there. Turning the same way. This might increase the propeller walk (also known as propeller effect, wheeling effect, paddle wheel effect, asymmetric thrust, asymmetric blade effect, transverse thrust, prop walk). You won’t notice this much when going forward. But when going backwards this might become an issue. If you have 2 props. You need them both turning different ways to counter this effect. I love the project so far! :) it’s amazing what you do. Keep it up!
Love it! I decided on differential thrust so no extra moving parts are required, but a 1 motor out situation is pretty likely, so ya got me thinkin I should be able to manually offset the angle of either to get close to straight thrust, and steer with an emergency paddle
I don't have a ton of powerboat experience but I would attribute the vibration you observed to cavitation. Cavitation is inherently chaotic and will cause differential thrusts and vibration. It's hard to see if that is actually the issue, but I know it's an issue on every RIB I have driven
Just an FYI, you can find those chunky servos in overstock at princess auto if you are lucky. Built many RC projects by harvesting motors and gearboxes from the overstock parts bin for like $7 a pop.
We live in the UK but have relatives in Shoreline, the slipway you launched from was the one the Duck Tours used to get into the lake. Happy memories of Seattle watching your RC escapades!
I would see if you can find some counter rotation props for it. Also an adjustable jackplate could help tune the height of the props in the water. Awesome project!
For props try using 8" (or so) RC Airplane "APC" brand pusher propellers. They work extremely well and are much more efficient than a typical boat prop at these speeds due to their long aspect ratio.
I expected your channel to have a bit of a lull over the winter, esp. the Boston whaler series. Here you are again fueling my procrastination and keeping me up late. I just cant help but watch every time, its so damn interesting. Cheers from the olympic peninsula, keep crushing it Daniel. Oh look! Stuff Made Here has a new vid too...
in aviation, there is a thing called prop sync, used in reciprocating and also turboprop planes; syncs one engine to the exact rpm of the other. if youre interested i could get some more information, im working at an airport where the one of the biggest producers of props and those sync electronics are based. would also be interesting if it only vibrates if both motors run on full thrust or at all time. For the servo i also had an idea; you could use a big rubber grommet or rubber bearing on the driven shafts. would decimate your wear and tear on the 3d printed parts i think. best wishes
Thoroughly enjoying your 3D printing here of big bulky parts, it's a world away from my tiny designs which work with the 'grain' of printing for strength, efficiency & printing speed. My "Hoopin TPU Cable Tie" is perhaps the strongest cable tie design on Thingiverse, which was created by accident, I photo'd my Prusa hanging from a normal size print to show its strength.
Nice job! This is what it’s all about, taking a project boat, your imagination, tools and skill set, and challenging yourself to make something that can be used and enjoyed for exploring. Once you go with differential thrust steering it’s hard to go back to babysitting a tiller or wheel. Really enjoyed the scenery as you cruised about in these videos. Looking forward to solar integration and bigger motor controllers to see what those E-foil motors can do pushing that hull.
Great video, as always. Maybe try a little K.I.S.S. Rigidly mount the motors to the boat (and use differential steering if required). Add a tradition rudder/tiller (with a linear actuator for automated control) for manual/backup steering. You could make a linear actuator using 3D printing, threaded rod and a nut - or CNC it all in aluminium for strength/precision. Stay safe out there.
This project is the thing that got my attention to your channel, but your engineering is what made me subscribe. Tying the motors together with tie rods and ball joints is the answer I was looking for for a minicat project that I am planning. I have been considering different ways to have a dual motor setup, using the motors for steering. Great work on this project, can't wait to see the next part.
I would love if you started doing more with bigger boats, this project was incredible to watch start to finish, that boat looks fantastic! I'd love to see you make something this size with some power in it.
The rubber part in the props is the hub. It’s made to absorb pressure, light impacts and dampens harmonics. The gap between the prop and motor is what is causing your vibrations.
Congratulations - brilliant project and video as always. 'Wobbly path' on auto missions is going to be a big hurdle, so I'm really keen to see how you tackle that issue. Well done again.
just pointing this out, for printing solid parts, its usually better for you to have a few walls and solid infill rather than all walls, it will print faster, be just as strong, and wont have any gaps where there isnt enough space for a wall(wont make a difference for really big parts but its waaayyyy better for smaller parts).
This is amazing! You could static balance the prop just like an airplane prop. Would make a cool 1 minute segment. Also skim coat all the wood with resin, it’ll keep in in great shape for a longgggg time. Or soak in wood sealer for a few days. Always looking forward to your videos!!
The rubber between the shaft housing and the propeller it's used like a damper to preserve the motor. It absorbs the torsional force during fast acceleration and reduce vibration caused by cavitation. It's not made for self balancing. Probably the wobbliness that you experienced came from the two rudders becose of cavitation effects an karman trails. Try to make a slicker design and you will see that the water can stay attached more to che surface reducing vibration. Grate video!
Welcome to boating on hard mode. My grandfather was building rc sailboats back in the 60s, using tiny canvas sails and strings wrapped around servos. I, notably, have not taken up the same challenge lol. You do need to know the local wind direction and speed, which can be accomplished low tech with a nylon string (something heavy that won't kink) attached to the top of the mast. Like a wind sock it tells you direction and speed.
Love this project. I'd recommend staying away from structurally loaded PLA parts. Stick with PETG or other higher temperature plastics. I've had PLA parts warp when left in direct sunlight outside. PETG gives you around 20C higher temperature tolerance from softening than PLA
Wonderful video. Amazing boat. Now for a custom Transmitter with about 4-6 channel. That is waterproof, floats and has some lights to find it. And just for throttle steering, and maybe turn on/off differential steering and autopilot.
Just a tip the best way to epoxy something like that is to use a spreader, wet through the back of your cloth then use the spreader to apply it to a wetted surface. Another tip, you can use nail polish on your electronics for protection then pot then in epoxy with the wires connected. That rubber piece is designed to shear after it gets a high speed jam, like a line around the propeller. It breaks instead of the crankshaft
I've been watching your videos for years. And it's interesting to watch how you projects, engineering skills and your knowledge has expanded. Going frm small projects to bigger projects. Wel done and keep up the good work.
Am heavily into rc aeromodeling to the point of flying my first turbine for a little over a year now having been in the hobby for a bit over 42 years. LOVE the way you did this latest project and you most certainly have a lot more knowledge on how to do things than me!! (Although google and you tube are pretty good friends!!) Look forward to the next video from you.
First, nice work!! Enjoyed your video a lot. Just a few thoughts from an old sea captain: 1 The rubber rings in the props are not for centering or balancing. They can slip if you accidently hit like a log, rock or something else and protect the motors. 2 I think your props are for high(er) speed (bigger pitch) , and your boat is a displacement boat and you will never hit the designed high speeds for the props. This would explain overheating of your motors. You need props would need less pitch...
Plus for steering, and 100% perfect maneuvering you would need independent rudders on both engines, I'm not sure if that would be easy to program into a autopilot.
Adding a Cooling Fan to your Electrical Box wouldn't be a bad idea to keep everything cool. Along with a Rubber Seal to minimize moisture build up within... SWEET WHALER! Can't wait to see what you do for an Operator Station on this with a Windscreen, Steering Wheel and an Emergency Radio for that "Pooh-Pooh Happens" moment...
A primitive water cooling system might be good to have for the electronics (tiny water pump, copper tubing in contact with electronic's heat sink surfaces)
The rubber things inside the propellers are there to protect the motors against the prop blades hitting things underwater. It happens far too regularly! Much nicer than shear pins.
The rubber bushing is not a self centering feature - it's to protect your lower unit gear/engine from breaking when you hit a rock. Idea being that the prop starts freewheeling on the bushing. Before the rubber bushing, you would have shear pins.
For your steering servo and vibration -- you probably don't need your system so rigid. You could use a more flexible horn, or a pulley arrangement with rope. On my boat, I have rope-driven wind vane self steering that has taken me across seas, and the connection is quite compliant. The key there is that there is negative feedback from the wind direction to compensate for any flex.
Very cool! Reminds me of my own hydrofoil project with the same motors. Back then I wished I had just used a bigger diameter motor out of the water for more torque.
Since water is right there, could you do something with heatpipes adhered to the sides and into the water for a DIYcooling solution to prevent further thermal issues?
for the interested: the rubber in the prop hubs' main job is to reduce wear in the gearbox on regular outboards. when you shift, you are smashing two flat pieces of steel together in the gearbox (driveshaft and propshaft get connected through the clutch dog), where the driveshaft is at 7-800rpm (or more), and the propshaft is standing still. getting the propeller up to that speed in an instant is not so great for the clutch dog, so the prop hub is isolated from the prop with rubber to dampen the blow. it also takes out some vibrations at low rpm, and help a little bit if you hit something, though they are not meant as shear pins. your prop will still break off all the blades and bend your propshaft if you hit something big. you don't really need those rubber inserts here, as the power delivery from an electric motor is smooth, unlike in gas powered outboards, and you don't have a shifting gearcase.
I worked at a marina in michigan for 4 years the rubber piece in the prop is a shear hub it a protective device for the prop incase it hit something hard the plastic sleave will shear on the inside and keep the porp from chipping/breakinging. Awesome job tho I think your projects are awesome.
This might be a bit late to the party, but a typical vibratory exciter on ships is the blade passing frequency. When one of the blades moves past the outboard body it loses some off its thrust. In your case the frequency is prolblably 3x the motor rpm because 3 blades. Be aware having 2 props spinning not in sync gives this output twice. The solution would be optimising the hydrodynamics to dampen the flow disturbance somewhat or increase blade count to smooth pressure spikes.
rubber in between drive and propulsion, like inside a propeller or inside the rear wheel of a motorcycle, is usually called a kush drive. it allows smoother operation! On my motorcycles it keeps the motor from 'thumping' the rear wheel.
the rubber bushings are for impacts, it allows the prop to slip on the shaft when the prop hits some obstruction. This keeps the shaft and gears from shearing....
It would be really cool to see you try to recreate something like the yamaha joystick docking system but that would mean adding independent steering on the motors.
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couple things, maybe add a steering damper, surron 72v batteries would be a good idea maybe chi batteries would hook it up
make it a paddlewheel
I wish TH-camrs would do more research on the sponsors they choose. Wargaming is one of the worst companies with tons or PR problems. TH-camrs who were part of the CC (Community Contributor program) did a massive walk out in 2021 but seems like the internet forgot. I cannot support someone who supports companies like this, you are part of the problem.
@@1islam1 Do you like pork sandwiches? I like pork sandwiches.
Lol nah I’m good. Sold your sole to this game? Jk just making money on your vids. No worries
Honestly at this point I wouldn't be surprised if the Solar Wings will double as partial ground effect surfaces.
Don't tempt him
Yes
Stop, rclifeon and him will team up and make a ground-effect hydrofoil solar powered boat and crash the shipping industry with high speed infinite range 3D printed dinghies.
@@KingFate20 You wanted to say original CLD - Craigs List‘s Dhinghies, of course.
@@TeeBar420
oh yes please tempt him
Your evolution as an engineer, video editor, and project story teller, from early days of flying planes around your parents yard to electric boat admiral, never fail to amaze me.
"Electric Admiral" would be a good name for a band.
@@Ithirahad I like how you think. Electric Admiral may have to be my next gamer name. :)
This is the comment
Came here to say the same thing, lovely to see the evolution.
The narrating sounds like he went with the first take on everything, and forgot what part was coming next
Otherwise love the videos, engineering is killer, great hands on skill
The boat looks fantastic, I wonder if there’s interactions with water turbulence or if the pitch is too high for the current speed of the boat causing a little bit of vibrations. Maybe try adding those small outboard hydrofoil/anti cavitation plates?
i found you
Then you'd expect vibrations when accelerating hard... doesnt make sense.
Thanks! Turbulence coming from the hull seems likely. Maybe I need a wing/cavitation plate to separate the flow. Definitely going to try lower pitch prop too
One electric boat innovator helping another, I love it.
The most ambitious crossover of the century. @rctestflight @PeterSripol make it happen.
Just a tip on set screws on shafts is putting a dimple on the shaft with a drill bit , tighten the set screw and then run another set screw on top of the first ! It’s done in the heavy equipment industry all the time and never fails !!!
Your youtube journey has been phenomenal, Daniel. That's a lot of hard work, but great to see you enjoying the fruits of your labour's.
I can only imagine what the typical, "how much range does it have?" Bystander would say about a 3d printed drive train with autopilot.
You crack me up. I love your boat too.
my kerbal instinct says more booste... i mean solar cells :D
Sorry tried to click the read more tab but stupid touch screens had me thumbsing down which i didn't want so i undid many times to retry to read comment and left an thumbs up just in case for algorithm of comments:)
Once he puts the solar panels on it: All the range. It has all of it. 😅
Nice project. Maybe if you are worried about vibrations damaging servo, you could think of some tpu damper between servo horn and linkages, so it isnt stiffly coupled. Looks like it wouldnt affect precision of steering in any measurable way, but could dampen those vibrations.
Thats a great idea I think!
That would just lead to resonance and more severe vibrations.
Them rubber rings are usually impact protection. It's also there for harmonic Ballance on the motor shaft.
Loved that ending! “All in the same boat” is some of the best work featured by Pat Riley on this channel.
Not gonna lie,i was hoping for some sea shanty, but that was great too
Love your nautical adventures, Daniel! I absolutely love that you get in over your head on projects but always power through -- that boat project looked like a nightmare and you made it happen. I bet it feels good to be in it!
I've been following you since you were flying crappy foam planes out of your parents upstairs window. Your journey continues to amaze me and I can't wait to see how this project evolves. Amazing work sir 🤘
That rubber piece in the prop is called a hub.
Should you kit a rock, it breaks from the splined shaft to save the lower unit (gear case)
Also, you should crimp the battery cables lug.
Came here to say this
So was I lol. I use volunteer with the axillary coast guard. On a rescue in 30 mph we sheared 1 of the hubs on 1 of 150hp Johnson outboards. It made us a liability instead of being the help.
Shear pins do that also right?
@@twt000 The shear pin was the pin that turned the blade as well as break if it hit something. My dad used to use 4 inch nails to make more pins.
@@flyercan Aren't sheer pins a more brittle material than nails?
Your videos have totally inspired me to do the same thing. I bought a big ass LiFePO battery and a trolling motor and built a frame to mount it on my inflatable canoe. Spent the summer cruising the waterways in my country every few weekends. My build was much less DIY, I just shilled out the money for ready made parts, since I don't need autopilot or stuff like that. Cruising around the waterways is the most calming, satisfying thing ever, highly recommend. Thanks for putting out these videos, they're always a joy to watch!
The rubber in the prop is a safety point that can flex if you have a prop strike. Pretty standard on boat props.
So glad to see you went this direction. The magic of TH-cam for me is watching someone else work through very similar ideas to what I am working on.
I can attest to the resilience of PETG (mine connects the motors to the boat’s helm). It is not underwater, but has been in all the elements over the past three seasons.
Dude, I’m so impressed with the quality of work and engineering you used to build your boat. It’s unparalleled on TH-cam thus far.
I will say, you might want to consider simplifying the mechanisms and linkages to make it easily repairable on the go. I’d also recommend a PWM between your battery and motors as it will reduce the amp draw on your battery over time, since motors generally use higher amps than they convert to power at lower speeds, and the remainder of the energy is converted into thermal energy.
A PWM will mitigate that issue considerably, increasing effective range by about 20%.
The other thing I’d recommend is having a couple small Amazon kayak sails for $20 (the kind that looks like a circle). They only work downwind, but in the event of a motor failure, you’ll have a way to get back to the boat ramp without breaking too much of a sweat. You could also install some dual purpose oar-locks for rowing the boat, or use them to hold fishing poles or GoPro mounts.
You did great in designing redundancy into the systems! Definitely get a waterproof laptop for the next voyages! I was terrified for your Dell watching this video. Especially if you have any important data and calibration software for the boat that might make it unusable without it.
You have to name it!
Name idea: Arr Sea 🌊
I'm absolutely in envy of the gorgeous area of Washington you're in and the time/ability to work on so many projects. Thanks for sharing your work with us. I'll live vicariously through these until I can finally move out west
I am in awe of your motivation. Thanks also for showing the fails along with the wins. I’ve got six months of a few hours a week working on a large 3D Printed Project. I’ve hit the Meh stage. Your videos are helping to restore my motivation.
Love how you have original music in your videos. Its always one of my favorite parts.
What an awesome project dude! I can’t believe how fast you model and produce parts for that thing. You say it’s the 3D printing that is the magic behind the rapid prototyping, but I think the magic is how insanely skilled you are at coming up with a design in your head, adapting it to use the parts you have on hand, and then putting it all together into a creative solution. Well done sir! 👏
I work a lot with pixhawk flight controllers, it's best to do your gyro/compass calibrations away from large concrete and metal structures, and it might also help to place the here2 gps puck on a small mast somewhere away from other electronics/ sources of EMI. Awesome project, waiting for the next video in the series!
I love your 3D engineering. It all looks a bit over built but it works. Happy sailing.
3d printed parts can never be too strong. Better to be on the safe side.
I guess for a boat weight isn't as much as a consideration as it is on his RC planes.
I grew up in Seattle on lake Washington, swinging on that exact rope all summer long. I always dreamed of building a powered boat to launch around Fremont, never really happened. But i can live vicariously through you, watching these videos makes me very happy. Thanks man!
next project: Autonomous Airsoft Close In Weapon System or A.A.C.I.W.S. with Airsoft minigun
YES!
OMG! Yes, a CIWS or a sentry gun built around a raspberry pi? Do it! 😊
@@wearemany73and mount the ciws on his new boat
Also, an Autonomous Airsoft Artillery System (AA-AS)
@@isaacm1929 or autonomous shooting system (or A.S.S.)(pun intended)
This boat and your overall effort are impressive in so many ways. Old mariners like myself believe there is only one right way to build and repair boats. And that is usually true. Things like galvonic corrosion and wind can easily be overlooked by newbies.
That being said you did a good job applying new tech to old school boat.
I really hope you give those motors a chance at recommended voltage and 2X the recommended amperage available.
I know...expensive controllers and batteries!
I actually love the batteries you have, you just need more of them.
Once you have all that power you truly appreciate the motors you have. Tiny props spinning like mad, low amps at any speed, and a displacement hull flying on the props. Sounds like fun to me.
I have faith in you. I'll check back later.
Hey there! I see you have two of the same props on there. Turning the same way. This might increase the propeller walk (also known as propeller effect, wheeling effect, paddle wheel effect, asymmetric thrust, asymmetric blade effect, transverse thrust, prop walk). You won’t notice this much when going forward. But when going backwards this might become an issue. If you have 2 props. You need them both turning different ways to counter this effect.
I love the project so far! :) it’s amazing what you do. Keep it up!
This is so cool to see because I have the exact same boat, but with a 8 HP Yamaha two-stroke engine, and it's cool to see the potential of "my boat"
Awesome project. Get some lifejackets dude.
Love it! I decided on differential thrust so no extra moving parts are required, but a 1 motor out situation is pretty likely, so ya got me thinkin I should be able to manually offset the angle of either to get close to straight thrust, and steer with an emergency paddle
I don't have a ton of powerboat experience but I would attribute the vibration you observed to cavitation. Cavitation is inherently chaotic and will cause differential thrusts and vibration. It's hard to see if that is actually the issue, but I know it's an issue on every RIB I have driven
He's doing 4 knots - I somehow doubt those props are spinning fast enough to cavitate
This is my favorite channel. All these brilliant R&D creations near my old home
I’m so hyped for more of this, I love seeing all the tidbits of how it performs and the problem solving! You pack into a video in such a nice way too!
Just an FYI, you can find those chunky servos in overstock at princess auto if you are lucky. Built many RC projects by harvesting motors and gearboxes from the overstock parts bin for like $7 a pop.
That looked like a lot fun in the sun 😎 All the days and days of hard work finally paying off. Congrats 👍
And now the song is stuck in my head. Glad we are all in the same boat. Thanks for the great content!
You need the rubber grommets on the servo, not the props. This is awesome. Next, a full on EV speedboat.
We live in the UK but have relatives in Shoreline, the slipway you launched from was the one the Duck Tours used to get into the lake. Happy memories of Seattle watching your RC escapades!
Seattle duck tours are closed after they killed all those people on the aurora bridge 😕
I would see if you can find some counter rotation props for it. Also an adjustable jackplate could help tune the height of the props in the water. Awesome project!
For props try using 8" (or so) RC Airplane "APC" brand pusher propellers. They work extremely well and are much more efficient than a typical boat prop at these speeds due to their long aspect ratio.
I expected your channel to have a bit of a lull over the winter, esp. the Boston whaler series. Here you are again fueling my procrastination and keeping me up late. I just cant help but watch every time, its so damn interesting. Cheers from the olympic peninsula, keep crushing it Daniel. Oh look! Stuff Made Here has a new vid too...
in aviation, there is a thing called prop sync, used in reciprocating and also turboprop planes; syncs one engine to the exact rpm of the other. if youre interested i could get some more information, im working at an airport where the one of the biggest producers of props and those sync electronics are based. would also be interesting if it only vibrates if both motors run on full thrust or at all time. For the servo i also had an idea; you could use a big rubber grommet or rubber bearing on the driven shafts. would decimate your wear and tear on the 3d printed parts i think. best wishes
Thoroughly enjoying your 3D printing here of big bulky parts, it's a world away from my tiny designs which work with the 'grain' of printing for strength, efficiency & printing speed.
My "Hoopin TPU Cable Tie" is perhaps the strongest cable tie design on Thingiverse, which was created by accident, I photo'd my Prusa hanging from a normal size print to show its strength.
His usage and mastery of gears alone is quite impressive.
Nice job! This is what it’s all about, taking a project boat, your imagination, tools and skill set, and challenging yourself to make something that can be used and enjoyed for exploring. Once you go with differential thrust steering it’s hard to go back to babysitting a tiller or wheel. Really enjoyed the scenery as you cruised about in these videos. Looking forward to solar integration and bigger motor controllers to see what those E-foil motors can do pushing that hull.
Great video, as always. Maybe try a little K.I.S.S. Rigidly mount the motors to the boat (and use differential steering if required). Add a tradition rudder/tiller (with a linear actuator for automated control) for manual/backup steering. You could make a linear actuator using 3D printing, threaded rod and a nut - or CNC it all in aluminium for strength/precision. Stay safe out there.
Need counter rotation props.
This project is the thing that got my attention to your channel, but your engineering is what made me subscribe. Tying the motors together with tie rods and ball joints is the answer I was looking for for a minicat project that I am planning. I have been considering different ways to have a dual motor setup, using the motors for steering. Great work on this project, can't wait to see the next part.
Hey man, just as a friendly chunk of life changing advice… get an impact driver, absolute game changer
You might have to watch the video again or you might miss him using his impact
@@Moonsauc3 time stamp ?
@@Moonsauc3 when did he use an impact?
@@Moonsauc3 did you find that impact driver yet?
I would love if you started doing more with bigger boats, this project was incredible to watch start to finish, that boat looks fantastic! I'd love to see you make something this size with some power in it.
Don't eat bat soup guys
OK? wasn't planning on it....
The rubber part in the props is the hub. It’s made to absorb pressure, light impacts and dampens harmonics. The gap between the prop and motor is what is causing your vibrations.
Congratulations - brilliant project and video as always. 'Wobbly path' on auto missions is going to be a big hurdle, so I'm really keen to see how you tackle that issue. Well done again.
Make sure you have your 1 pfd per person on board + fire extinguisher, coast guard don't play... I'd have a throwable too, but
5:11 Daniel in his purest form, shorts with angle grinder
The coolest man alive
just pointing this out, for printing solid parts, its usually better for you to have a few walls and solid infill rather than all walls, it will print faster, be just as strong, and wont have any gaps where there isnt enough space for a wall(wont make a difference for really big parts but its waaayyyy better for smaller parts).
This is amazing! You could static balance the prop just like an airplane prop. Would make a cool 1 minute segment. Also skim coat all the wood with resin, it’ll keep in in great shape for a longgggg time. Or soak in wood sealer for a few days. Always looking forward to your videos!!
The rubber between the shaft housing and the propeller it's used like a damper to preserve the motor. It absorbs the torsional force during fast acceleration and reduce vibration caused by cavitation. It's not made for self balancing.
Probably the wobbliness that you experienced came from the two rudders becose of cavitation effects an karman trails. Try to make a slicker design and you will see that the water can stay attached more to che surface reducing vibration.
Grate video!
Welcome to boating on hard mode. My grandfather was building rc sailboats back in the 60s, using tiny canvas sails and strings wrapped around servos. I, notably, have not taken up the same challenge lol. You do need to know the local wind direction and speed, which can be accomplished low tech with a nylon string (something heavy that won't kink) attached to the top of the mast. Like a wind sock it tells you direction and speed.
Love this project. I'd recommend staying away from structurally loaded PLA parts. Stick with PETG or other higher temperature plastics. I've had PLA parts warp when left in direct sunlight outside. PETG gives you around 20C higher temperature tolerance from softening than PLA
Finally a good song! Awesome project!
That was fun, thanks for giving me a ride in the same boat. You've inspired me to continue converting my gas powered boat to electric.
Wonderful video. Amazing boat.
Now for a custom Transmitter with about 4-6 channel.
That is waterproof, floats and has some lights to find it.
And just for throttle steering, and maybe turn on/off differential steering and autopilot.
It is a great looking boat I'd give you a high five. You did a fantastic job on fixing that boat up and making it fully functional.
Dude, the smile on your face as you pulled away from the dock, lol. So much work went into this. What a journey.
After watching your videos, I feel like anything is possible. I started the day feeling lousy, and now it’s all good! Bless you.
Just a tip the best way to epoxy something like that is to use a spreader, wet through the back of your cloth then use the spreader to apply it to a wetted surface. Another tip, you can use nail polish on your electronics for protection then pot then in epoxy with the wires connected. That rubber piece is designed to shear after it gets a high speed jam, like a line around the propeller. It breaks instead of the crankshaft
I've been watching your videos for years. And it's interesting to watch how you projects, engineering skills and your knowledge has expanded. Going frm small projects to bigger projects. Wel done and keep up the good work.
I'm surprised that servo didn't come with a keyed shaft, would've held up far far better than a grub screw! Great video as usual!
Am heavily into rc aeromodeling to the point of flying my first turbine for a little over a year now having been in the hobby for a bit over 42 years. LOVE the way you did this latest project and you most certainly have a lot more knowledge on how to do things than me!! (Although google and you tube are pretty good friends!!) Look forward to the next video from you.
It's great watching Daniel enjoy the rest of the Summer now that it's December.
Thank you! I am trying to make my 24 ft. pontoon boat all solar / electric. You have given me a lot of great suggestions.
It is quite a nice boat! I always print with 100% infill for all parts made for underwater, so that the water doesn't soak in & trap inside.
Since you have 2 motors you could do azipod steering that big ships use. You can go sideways, turn inside your length, etc.
I love your boat, too. And your videos. Thank you for a very enjoyable half hour!!!
First, nice work!! Enjoyed your video a lot. Just a few thoughts from an old sea captain:
1 The rubber rings in the props are not for centering or balancing. They can slip if you accidently hit like a log, rock or something else and protect the motors.
2 I think your props are for high(er) speed (bigger pitch) , and your boat is a displacement boat and you will never hit the designed high speeds for the props. This would explain overheating of your motors. You need props would need less pitch...
Plus for steering, and 100% perfect maneuvering you would need independent rudders on both engines, I'm not sure if that would be easy to program into a autopilot.
Can't wait for the homebuilt props video!
Can't wait for him to make it fly.
Really nice closing segment. All in the same boat.
That's awesome. I used to live in that marina right next to where you launched. It was great to see the old home waters, thanks a bunch.
Adding a Cooling Fan to your Electrical Box wouldn't be a bad idea to keep everything cool.
Along with a Rubber Seal to minimize moisture build up within...
SWEET WHALER!
Can't wait to see what you do for an Operator Station on this with a Windscreen, Steering Wheel and an Emergency Radio for that "Pooh-Pooh Happens" moment...
The level of knowledge you possess literally blows my mind. Keep it up. Love the content
A primitive water cooling system might be good to have for the electronics (tiny water pump, copper tubing in contact with electronic's heat sink surfaces)
The rubber things inside the propellers are there to protect the motors against the prop blades hitting things underwater. It happens far too regularly!
Much nicer than shear pins.
This is a great mixture of ingenuity and music.
Big grin inducing
Thank you for your efforts / Ed
Really top quality fabrication in this project! Very well thought through and designed.
The rubber bushing is not a self centering feature - it's to protect your lower unit gear/engine from breaking when you hit a rock. Idea being that the prop starts freewheeling on the bushing. Before the rubber bushing, you would have shear pins.
For your steering servo and vibration -- you probably don't need your system so rigid. You could use a more flexible horn, or a pulley arrangement with rope. On my boat, I have rope-driven wind vane self steering that has taken me across seas, and the connection is quite compliant. The key there is that there is negative feedback from the wind direction to compensate for any flex.
The rubber is meant to shear if you strike or wrap the prop.
What a lovely person you are and how lovely are your songs! Thank you! ❤
Very cool! Reminds me of my own hydrofoil project with the same motors. Back then I wished I had just used a bigger diameter motor out of the water for more torque.
Since water is right there, could you do something with heatpipes adhered to the sides and into the water for a DIYcooling solution to prevent further thermal issues?
Most underrated YT channel! Amazing work.
for the interested: the rubber in the prop hubs' main job is to reduce wear in the gearbox on regular outboards. when you shift, you are smashing two flat pieces of steel together in the gearbox (driveshaft and propshaft get connected through the clutch dog), where the driveshaft is at 7-800rpm (or more), and the propshaft is standing still. getting the propeller up to that speed in an instant is not so great for the clutch dog, so the prop hub is isolated from the prop with rubber to dampen the blow. it also takes out some vibrations at low rpm, and help a little bit if you hit something, though they are not meant as shear pins. your prop will still break off all the blades and bend your propshaft if you hit something big. you don't really need those rubber inserts here, as the power delivery from an electric motor is smooth, unlike in gas powered outboards, and you don't have a shifting gearcase.
I worked at a marina in michigan for 4 years the rubber piece in the prop is a shear hub it a protective device for the prop incase it hit something hard the plastic sleave will shear on the inside and keep the porp from chipping/breakinging. Awesome job tho I think your projects are awesome.
Too much fun to watch your process. You are a gift.
This might be a bit late to the party, but a typical vibratory exciter on ships is the blade passing frequency. When one of the blades moves past the outboard body it loses some off its thrust. In your case the frequency is prolblably 3x the motor rpm because 3 blades. Be aware having 2 props spinning not in sync gives this output twice. The solution would be optimising the hydrodynamics to dampen the flow disturbance somewhat or increase blade count to smooth pressure spikes.
Great choice on those AO LiFePO4 batteries. Solid battery for your application.
I could listen to Daniel commenting on random boat all day
rubber in between drive and propulsion, like inside a propeller or inside the rear wheel of a motorcycle, is usually called a kush drive. it allows smoother operation! On my motorcycles it keeps the motor from 'thumping' the rear wheel.
and also if you strike the bottom the rubber will rip and hopefully save your shaft
the rubber bushings are for impacts, it allows the prop to slip on the shaft when the prop hits some obstruction. This keeps the shaft and gears from shearing....
all in the same boatasauruas
It would be really cool to see you try to recreate something like the yamaha joystick docking system but that would mean adding independent steering on the motors.