Thanks Franklin - yes, I was working nearly double time over summer, hard to finish projects, but got a lot more coming now. Finish the Corsair, and I've got another U-boat underway, plus my Tank Girl. All coming very soon...cheers Chris
Thanks Stephen, yep the best way to weather these aircraft is multiple layers of paint and effects. One coat of paint makes it look like a toy....cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Tuesday, 1 October, 2024) Oh, I look forward to that, Chris! As for me, I would start with Tamiya’s 1:32nd-scale kits of the Chance Vought F4U Corsair USN/USMC Fighter series and the North American Aviation P-51 Mustang USAAF fighter series. My first of each aircraft in the build, representing arrivals fresh from the factory, would have rather less wear, if any at all. In my later displays of newer variants, however, I would set alongside each a rather more weathered, battle-scarred iteration of their predecessors, to highlight the difference, to show the rigours of war. For example, bedside a model of a war-weary F4U-1 in the Navy Blue Grey over White paint scheme of the early war undergoing repair from the wounds sustained it its last sortie, I would place a replica of a tri-colour F4U-1A in pristine condition. Wear and weathering in gradients marking time's passage . . . .
Hi DLY, I used the 0.2 needle in my Harder and Steenbeck to do this, a 0.3 would work fine as well, although 1/32 is easier but takes longer....cheers, Chris
Where did you find the reference images? I am wanting to do something similar to my tamiya 1/32 F4u1D corsair and I have found some decent reference images, but nothing of the underside of a beaten up aircraft. I know the 1D variant only came out in 1944, but they were used on the end of a very long supply line on carriers, so they would have been beat to hell anyway from the salt spray and high operational tempo.
I tried a hairspray chipping technique recently but sprayed the hairspray from the aerosol can. This proved to be a failure as there was way to much hairspray covering the model. Do you use your airbush for application and if so, what do you use to clean it so it doesn't get all gummed up? Windex perhaps?
My preferred method is to spray the hairspray into a separate cup, leave it sit for 5-10 minutes so it gasses off, then pour that into the airbrush and spray at around 15-20psi in very light coats. It will dry very quickly that way. I use Isoproypl alcholol to clean it up - and you must do it straight away, including pulling the needle out. I recently used this method on my Tank Girl vignette - took minutes to dry instead of hours using the Mig/AK stuff and very very controllable. I have used hairspray straight from a can - its perfect for large things like a U-boat (see my video on that one), that you want to heavily weather, but I'd still prefer to use the airbrush to control the flow. cheers, Chris
Indeed there is! I forgot that line in my voiceover - after you seal in the previous layer with a matt coat, you then apply another 2-3 coats of hairspray, let dry, then apply more paint. cheers Chris
No the dullcoat seals in all of the chipping and "turns off" the hairspray, so you can do another layer again - I didn't really make that clear in the video sorry!
It just takes some time and patience Mark, anyone could do this, just think of it as layers. Look at Will Pattison, a far better modeller and painter than me, he has very limited use of his hands due to a spine injury, but he can do it!
Glad to be seeing your post again, great content 👏
Thanks Franklin - yes, I was working nearly double time over summer, hard to finish projects, but got a lot more coming now. Finish the Corsair, and I've got another U-boat underway, plus my Tank Girl. All coming very soon...cheers Chris
I’ve looked at a few ideas and yours is streets ahead . This is the go-to reference for me now 👍🏻
Thanks for that - I'm tempting even myself to have another go with a 1/32 Corsair...
Very nice. I like that you've layered the effects. Much more realistic.
Thanks Stephen, yep the best way to weather these aircraft is multiple layers of paint and effects. One coat of paint makes it look like a toy....cheers Chris
I really enjoyed your video 👍🤩. Very interesting masking and spray technique. 👍🤔Thanks for showing and best wishes from jolly old England 👍😎Pete 🤓
Thanks Pete!
Looks great! Lots of paint! 😎
Thanks Peter!
That's a really cool way of weathering. Thanks for the info.
You're welcome - thanks for watching. Next (and final) video is out soon! Cheers Chris
Just bought this kit can’t wait to start my first 1/48 scale kit, just about had enough of the micro 1/72 scales lol.
Good choice! 1/72 has its place, but 1/48 is a great coverall for almost anything these days and the kits keep getting better! Cheers, Chris
Jesus....follow that. Thanks Chris.
You're welcome - can't wait to get back to these in 1/32 scale!
@@beckersmodels
David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Tuesday, 1 October, 2024)
Oh, I look forward to that, Chris!
As for me, I would start with Tamiya’s 1:32nd-scale kits of the Chance Vought F4U Corsair USN/USMC Fighter series and the North American Aviation P-51 Mustang USAAF fighter series. My first of each aircraft in the build, representing arrivals fresh from the factory, would have rather less wear, if any at all. In my later displays of newer variants, however, I would set alongside each a rather more weathered, battle-scarred iteration of their predecessors, to highlight the difference, to show the rigours of war. For example, bedside a model of a war-weary F4U-1 in the Navy Blue Grey over White paint scheme of the early war undergoing repair from the wounds sustained it its last sortie, I would place a replica of a tri-colour F4U-1A in pristine condition.
Wear and weathering in gradients marking time's passage . . . .
Who makes the painting masks you are using?
Nice job👍
Thanks Keith!
Hi there 👍🏻 what's the best size needle for this technique for the airbrush....? Also love you're videos, very useful.
Hi DLY, I used the 0.2 needle in my Harder and Steenbeck to do this, a 0.3 would work fine as well, although 1/32 is easier but takes longer....cheers, Chris
Thanks mate, that's very helpful 👍🏻
Where did you find the reference images? I am wanting to do something similar to my tamiya 1/32 F4u1D corsair and I have found some decent reference images, but nothing of the underside of a beaten up aircraft. I know the 1D variant only came out in 1944, but they were used on the end of a very long supply line on carriers, so they would have been beat to hell anyway from the salt spray and high operational tempo.
I tried a hairspray chipping technique recently but sprayed the hairspray from the aerosol can. This proved to be a failure as there was way to much hairspray covering the model. Do you use your airbush for application and if so, what do you use to clean it so it doesn't get all gummed up? Windex perhaps?
My preferred method is to spray the hairspray into a separate cup, leave it sit for 5-10 minutes so it gasses off, then pour that into the airbrush and spray at around 15-20psi in very light coats. It will dry very quickly that way. I use Isoproypl alcholol to clean it up - and you must do it straight away, including pulling the needle out.
I recently used this method on my Tank Girl vignette - took minutes to dry instead of hours using the Mig/AK stuff and very very controllable.
I have used hairspray straight from a can - its perfect for large things like a U-boat (see my video on that one), that you want to heavily weather, but I'd still prefer to use the airbrush to control the flow. cheers, Chris
@@beckersmodels Thank you!
Yes, chippy _is_ a word but usually used in different context. Like when someone has a chip on their shoulder: "Don't get _chippy_ with me!" 😅
Chippy here is a carpenter!
@@beckersmodels sounds a bit like what electricians are called here, a "sparky".
@@beckersmodels same in the UK. Also a Fish and Chip Shop. Great vid btw.
Shouldn't there be another hairspray coat before the blue layers?
I was about to ask the same question. The video shows adding dull coat. I would think there would be another layer of chipping fluid there.
Indeed there is! I forgot that line in my voiceover - after you seal in the previous layer with a matt coat, you then apply another 2-3 coats of hairspray, let dry, then apply more paint. cheers Chris
So the hairspray can still be activated through the DULLCOAT? Is there a time limiit where it may no longer be activated?
No the dullcoat seals in all of the chipping and "turns off" the hairspray, so you can do another layer again - I didn't really make that clear in the video sorry!
So after the dullcoat the first layer before paint is another hairspray/chipping fluid layer I guess right?
Very nice👌
Excuse me sir how easy would this be for a disabled man
It just takes some time and patience Mark, anyone could do this, just think of it as layers. Look at Will Pattison, a far better modeller and painter than me, he has very limited use of his hands due to a spine injury, but he can do it!
Супер вышло
Thanks!
Just a comment
for the algorithm
Thanks Robert, always appreciated!