Seriously -- I do love watching experienced mechanics work their magic. Fortunately we can pause and review these videos when it takes us 15 minutes to remove something they removed in 30 seconds haha
Love these vids, highly informative! Btw... would it be possible for you to make a vid about removal/replacing a headliner for Model S? Thinking about switching my beige one, to black. Have no clue how to go about it...
The Tesla service procedure says power down car, remove negative terminal clamp and then disconnect first responder loop. It kinda didn't make sense to me but I followed those instructions and I did get a fair bit of sparks when reconnecting the battery. So I was curious of how much sparking you got before reconnecting the first responder loop and it seems a lot less. Bit puzzled about that.
Dude over the last few years I can’t tell you how many of those I have had to have Tesla replace...they say it is because we supercharge so much... I learned more in 10 minutes than I ever did from the Lake Destiny Tesla Garage! You da bomb!
When the 12 volt fail message/light comes on or when your car doors, trunk and frunk won’t open or respond. That’s a whole other video on how to get into a dead battery (12V) Tesla. I’m sure Chris and Chad will make that video for us.
So that's tough one, no not all MS are the same, the Dual motor is easy, the rear wheel drive is hard, I have a video on that one also, the older MS requires a battery with bolt on terminals on it where the DM just needs posts, its not an easy find due to the terminals being on the opposite side of what the MS requires. evtuning.com/ has 12v available online.
@@ElectrifiedGarage Thanks for the info, my 12v battery has no issues yet with about 120,000 miles , 2018 M-S100D. I have an appointment Jan 12 with Tesla Service Center about my MCU, hope they will replace under the email warranty issue. Thanks again. Please open up a shop in Port St Luice, FL. Thanks again Dale .
Awesome video, guys if you own a Tesla and live close please support these guys, we need more choices out there. I just paid $1500 for two upper control arms on my P85+
It may have been done faster, but never as sexy. I am curious, does the Tesla inform the driver the 12V needs to be replaced or is it pedestrian, like all others, and one morning it just is dead?
Not always. My 12V battery died in the middle of a software update (as the DCDC would not top it up during the update) bricking the car. After replacing the battery it woke up but was not drivable or chargeable. Luckily Tesla service was able to fix it over the air by uploading another software update. An indication that the 12V was on its way out was a slightly higher drop in SOC when the car was parked for a few days.
@@TJC450 Much harder in the older Model S when it was (in the wheel well?). Honestly, removing and replacing the 12V battery is part of how I picked a body shop after my car got hit while parked in a garage. The first estimate included 4 hours to open up the frunk, open the wheel well, remove and store the battery, condition it, reinstall it, put the wheel well back together, replace the frunk liner, etc. The second estimate didn't include removing the battery. It wasn't necessary, the procedure was for a battery in the wrong place and the labor hours were ridiculously inflated no matter where the battery was. I wasn't paying anything over a $500 deductible, but I don't trust a shop that pads its bills like that. Punchline: The repair cost my insurer 2$7-28,000 for very little visible damage.
I prefer penitrox, it's a line of products made for professional electricians to use on electrical connections that are dissimilar metals, it's a grease with specific metals suspended in it.
Cake compared to the Operation game of the first generation battery placement. Have you tested which 12v battery configuration file works best for the new design battery?
If you are in Europe you can order the same battery online from Wales here: www.tayna.co.uk/motorcycle-batteries/full-throttle/ft438-u1r/ However, if your Model S is an RWD pre-3/2016 you need an adapter post for the positive terminal. You can add this as an option when you order here: evtuning.com/collections/model-s-facelift-electrical/products/model-s-replacement-12v-battery?variant=31667739820094 Quote: "Important fitment information** 2012-3/2016 RWD Cars require adapter post which we include. (See video for installation with post adapter) 2016+ RWD and 2014+ Dual Motor car do not require adapter post"
How/why does this make any difference? This isn't the traction battery, so what does it actually do? Make the radio a little louder and the brake lights a little brighter?! I'm lost why you'd bother?
If your 12V battery dies and leaves you on the side of the road and since local auto parts stores don't stock a replacement battery what do you do? Is there a way to get the car moving without the 12V battery in place? Can you rig a battery in the frunk and make it home? I drive a Model Y.
The car as a DC-DC converter and uses the main traction battery to charge this as/when it is needed. The DC-DC converter is 1500W-2500W depending on year and model.
The only configuration is the cell type of the battery, the latest is carbon nano config, black bottom, red top battery. That is the same configuration as what is going in it which is basically maintenance free led acid battery. No calibrations.
![เปิดบ้าน พี่ตูน Bodyslam หลังใหม่คนแรก ที่ภูเก็ต l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/flFwcmyDQSk/mqdefault.jpg)
Great job! Can't wait for more complicated repairs!
Made this look way too easy. Would probably take me 2 hours LOL
Seriously -- I do love watching experienced mechanics work their magic. Fortunately we can pause and review these videos when it takes us 15 minutes to remove something they removed in 30 seconds haha
This guy knows how to make a how to video. No bullshit.
Neat little trick at the end to seat the rubber. I probably would have clutched my drill just to be safe though so the screws weren't over torked..
Shouldn't you clean the battery tray before putting the new battery in - I'm just saying.
Must not be his car
Now I see the + positive and - negative of changing the battery. LoL
Love these vids, highly informative! Btw... would it be possible for you to make a vid about removal/replacing a headliner for Model S? Thinking about switching my beige one, to black. Have no clue how to go about it...
The Tesla service procedure says power down car, remove negative terminal clamp and then disconnect first responder loop. It kinda didn't make sense to me but I followed those instructions and I did get a fair bit of sparks when reconnecting the battery. So I was curious of how much sparking you got before reconnecting the first responder loop and it seems a lot less. Bit puzzled about that.
Great work!
Dude over the last few years I can’t tell you how many of those I have had to have Tesla replace...they say it is because we supercharge so much... I learned more in 10 minutes than I ever did from the Lake Destiny Tesla Garage! You da bomb!
Excellent. Thanks.
Best video ever
simplest and most straightforward video of this i have found. thx..
Almost as awesome as watching an F1 pit-stop! Great Stuff!
When should the 12V be replaced? Ive got a 2015 with 43k.
When the 12 volt fail message/light comes on or when your car doors, trunk and frunk won’t open or respond. That’s a whole other video on how to get into a dead battery (12V) Tesla. I’m sure Chris and Chad will make that video for us.
I did not get any warning and it was super inconvenient when the 12V died. I would just replace it every 5 years as a precaution now.
best vid for 12V replacement
how did you disconnect firemans loop..?
There is a red pull clip in the black housing connector, if you use a small flat head screwdriver to pull outwards, it will release the loop.
Thanks
Nice.... is that battery you put in available online or in a automotive store? What is the cost of the battery.
not avail in auto stores. but i purchased the same from EVTUNING ant a fair price. the next better one would be from OHM that cost $416
Smooth like buttah.
Can you get the 12v from auto store - if so what is the model number or name to ask for ?
and is all the Model S the same as this one?
Thanks
.
So that's tough one, no not all MS are the same, the Dual motor is easy, the rear wheel drive is hard, I have a video on that one also, the older MS requires a battery with bolt on terminals on it where the DM just needs posts, its not an easy find due to the terminals being on the opposite side of what the MS requires. evtuning.com/ has 12v available online.
@@ElectrifiedGarage Thanks for the info, my 12v battery has no issues yet with about 120,000 miles , 2018 M-S100D.
I have an appointment Jan 12 with Tesla Service Center about my MCU, hope they will replace under the email warranty issue. Thanks again. Please open up a shop in Port St Luice, FL.
Thanks again
Dale
.
Awesome video, guys if you own a Tesla and live close please support these guys, we need more choices out there. I just paid $1500 for two upper control arms on my P85+
Easy peesy, lemon squeesy. Is there a LFP battery replacement for the 12v you recommend?
How do you change the configuration if you get a different battery model?
It may have been done faster, but never as sexy. I am curious, does the Tesla inform the driver the 12V needs to be replaced or is it pedestrian, like all others, and one morning it just is dead?
@@droidmranderson Thank you!
Not always. My 12V battery died in the middle of a software update (as the DCDC would not top it up during the update) bricking the car. After replacing the battery it woke up but was not drivable or chargeable. Luckily Tesla service was able to fix it over the air by uploading another software update. An indication that the 12V was on its way out was a slightly higher drop in SOC when the car was parked for a few days.
How in the hell did you get the fireman clip off so easily? Mine is refusing to budge
Great video - but dang, that's a faff just to replace the 12v :(
$200 for a replacement 12 volt battery that does nothing but excite the electronics so you can drive down the road on the traction battery.
What a performance, just to change a battery. Why did Tesla employ Land Rover engineers?
Much easier in the new 3/Y.
@@TJC450 Much harder in the older Model S when it was (in the wheel well?). Honestly, removing and replacing the 12V battery is part of how I picked a body shop after my car got hit while parked in a garage. The first estimate included 4 hours to open up the frunk, open the wheel well, remove and store the battery, condition it, reinstall it, put the wheel well back together, replace the frunk liner, etc. The second estimate didn't include removing the battery. It wasn't necessary, the procedure was for a battery in the wrong place and the labor hours were ridiculously inflated no matter where the battery was. I wasn't paying anything over a $500 deductible, but I don't trust a shop that pads its bills like that. Punchline: The repair cost my insurer 2$7-28,000 for very little visible damage.
@@domenicoperrella3501 That’s ridiculous. Glad they moved the location.
@@TJC450 The battery was located behind the right front wheel well to lower CG of the car.
A video showing back seat removal to get to the ECU and harness for the Continental TPMS on the newer model S cars.
neat trick, using the power driver to seat the seal
Awesome!
clean connectors & posts - apply very light coat petroleum jelly - even engine oil - or grease to keep corrosion down.
(very light coat)
I prefer penitrox, it's a line of products made for professional electricians to use on electrical connections that are dissimilar metals, it's a grease with specific metals suspended in it.
Not really needed with sealed AGM batteries with quality posts. I have 11 year old Odysseys with zero corrosion.
@@kingrpriddick Penetrox is the correct name.
Cake compared to the Operation game of the first generation battery placement.
Have you tested which 12v battery configuration file works best for the new design battery?
If you are in Europe you can order the same battery online from Wales here: www.tayna.co.uk/motorcycle-batteries/full-throttle/ft438-u1r/
However, if your Model S is an RWD pre-3/2016 you need an adapter post for the positive terminal. You can add this as an option when you order here:
evtuning.com/collections/model-s-facelift-electrical/products/model-s-replacement-12v-battery?variant=31667739820094
Quote: "Important fitment information**
2012-3/2016 RWD Cars require adapter post which we include. (See video for installation with post adapter)
2016+ RWD and 2014+ Dual Motor car do not require adapter post"
You swapped a DC battery with an SLI battery?
Thank you for your help ! Useful and professional advice
Battery description please
Is there any new videos in the works for the newer Model S?
How/why does this make any difference? This isn't the traction battery, so what does it actually do? Make the radio a little louder and the brake lights a little brighter?! I'm lost why you'd bother?
Its run the lights and other things like in a normal car
@@Renedue1967 yeah, I know that. But why does having a higher power, lithium one make any difference? Other than my door locks will be faster?
What is the purpose of the 12v battery if is has the larger battery pack?
Most electronics inside still run off 12v. The main battery pack is for propulsion.
The 12 volt runs the electronics that turn on the 400 volt.
It's required by law in many places so the car can always flash hazard lights if in an emergency situation.
Awesome thx. Break clean up video next pls...
If your 12V battery dies and leaves you on the side of the road and since local auto parts stores don't stock a replacement battery what do you do? Is there a way to get the car moving without the 12V battery in place? Can you rig a battery in the frunk and make it home? I drive a Model Y.
Used a ride-on mower battery on my older Model S and it worked. No it will not work without a 12V battery in place.
No b.s ,straightforward.
please tell me you are in or near sacramento?
great filming great knowledge thank you
Does the 12v battery get recharged from the lithium battery when being recharged or is the 12-volt battery recharged with regenerative braking?
The car as a DC-DC converter and uses the main traction battery to charge this as/when it is needed. The DC-DC converter is 1500W-2500W depending on year and model.
The battery should be configured to the car. It works without doing it but it won't last as long as it could if it was calibrated.
The only configuration is the cell type of the battery, the latest is carbon nano config, black bottom, red top battery. That is the same configuration as what is going in it which is basically maintenance free led acid battery. No calibrations.
Is that Milwaukee unit drill?
Why not a 12 volt lithium
Link doesn’t work
Great video, thanks for sharing this!
Great job!!
Where did "the reason being is" come from? I hear it all the time. Curious.
I think it's just a phrase common in their area.
And I thought my 2018 Odyssey had vents & plastic covers in the way! Tesla wins by 100 lengths.
Awesome! Love the videos!