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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- An in depth review of the Yashica 635 TLR, running through the camera itself, how it works, the good things and the bad things about it, and then I take it out for a shoot and show you the results!
Thanks to Nic Phelps at @bleedinirisphotog for letting me use one of his sprocket-hole 35mm photos to demonstrate what they look like. He takes some awesome photos, go check him out on Instagram!
Details about the Yashica 635 - it was first introduced in 1958 and was manufactured through to 1972. My version has an 80mm f3.5 lens with Copal MXV shutter mechanism, although I think there are other lens options, from memory. Correct me if I'm wrong!
It's a dual-format camera, shooting either 6x6 frames on 120 film, or 35mm roll film, but you need an adapter kit to shoot 35mm.
Enjoy!
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I just picked up a 635 with 35mm adaptor. It masks the film so that you DO NOT expose the sprocket holes. Properly installed with all the parts the adaptor will hold the film in the exact same film plane as the 120; therefore the 35 should be as sharp as you can get with 120. One could use only the parts for the 35 take up reel and cassette adaptor for a "Lomography" approach. I have improvised 35 mm use with Rolleis for some fun experiments - after I figured out how to advance the film the correct distance. You get a very tall image when shooting without a mask, and distortion from the film curling inwards a bit.
Interesting information, thank you! I didn't know that. Despite keeping a look out for a long time, I still haven't seen a 35mm adapter kit come up for sale. I've seen a few 635's with the adapter kit included, but nothing with the adapter kit on its own.
One day I'll find one and will post a new, more accurate video!
Love your straight up, no bull delivery. Refreshing to view someone just having a chat and telling it like it is with the chosen camera. I love TLR cameras, and have quite a few myself. They're like taking photos with a brick. Nothing fancy, just do the job. Nice video. Enjoyed the chat. I'm just a little late in finding your channel, but enjoying binge watching all the videos. Cheers from Canada.
Glad you're enjoying the videos! My Yashica has been sitting on my shelf next to me for a few months now... it's caught my eye a few times! Think I'll be getting that one out again soon, I kinda miss the brick! I've been pretty much only taking photos with the large format and my Bronica so far this year. Just looking at it is making me want to load a film and take it out!
The shutter sound is typical of leaf shutter, very quiet and no mirror slap causing image shake. I have to say I like TLR to take my time to shoot.
Yes, I have a few leaf shutter lenses/cameras. As you say, got for slow exposures... but I just love a camera that goes off with a thundering clang like my Bronica S2A! I think maybe I'm just a noisy person!
I have Yashica 635
They're great cameras aren't they?
I have a doubt. Picture in black and white or colorfull depends of film or camera? Yashica 635 takes pics in color?
Any camera will shoot colour, if you put a colour film in it! Yashica 635 will shoot colour or black and white, no problem.
Yours is the 3rd video I've watched where there is something about 1cm from the bottom on the right hand side... Any idea what causes it? I imagine something loose inside but seen it on 3 camera reviews now... Just curious
It don’t show the sprocket. The kit has blocks that.😊
Yeah I got that wrong, for sure!
A great camera. I have one and the 35 mm kit and the wide and tel lenses
It really is a great camera. I don't have it any more, I sold it to a film newbie and last i heard he was still getting great pictures from it. I'll likely pick up another one, one day, for nostalgia purposes! But I had a bad falling out with TLRs a few years back, and the bug hasn't hit me again yet!
Just got one, it is my very first film camera, and this is the very first video i’ve watched about film. Still learning a lot before I shoot my first roll. This video helped a lot more than the 65 year old instructions! Thank you!
Glad you found the video helpful! And congratulations on your new camera. The 635 was one of the first 120 cameras I owned, and I actually found it great to get started on. Pretty forgiving, easy enough to get decent images from. But you know you've started a journey now right? There will be many more film cameras in your future!
You can do great portraits with it. I have used mine over the years and never had any problems.
I'm sure you can, and I've shot some nice portraits with it. I do wish I could get closer though! I love this camera, it's my go-to!
I have it
I bought a 635 years ago. I came with the 35mm conversion kit, all in a boxy leather case to keep all of the bits together. This camera was made in the late 1959s, when Rolleiflex was selling a few models with this same 35mm idea, so the 635 was little more than a "me too" from the marketing department. In practical use, the whole 35mm idea is silly and overly complex. Biggest problem is that the 80mm lens forces a semi-telephoto effect. The other problem is the lens itself. Most 635 mount a 3-element triplet, a design left over from the 1930s which can be decent if used carefully, but is mainly used because it is very cheap to make. I used my 635 on one trip. After trying to enlarge some of the negative to make a 11x14 inch print, I first thought that I had mis-focussed the camera, as nothing was sharp. In the end, the problem was the lens I resold the camera. Some late made 635 have the same 4 element Tessar copy as used in the later TLRs to the end, 124G. As a Tessar copy, it's the poorest lens I've ever tested, but it can make sharp prints if used sensibly.
Hey Randall, did you find the problems only when shooting 35mm, or when shooting 120 as well? I've been getting satisfactory results shooting 120 in the 635... definitely on a par with my other medium format cameras. I don't find it the most forgiving lens, maybe that's what you're saying about using it carefully. You don't have to be far off focus to end up with a really bad image. But I like that it forces me to be precise!
@@the120ist I used my 635 with 120 roll film. I never bothered trying to shoot 35mm because the 120 resolution was poor. Being a triplet lens does not necessarily condemn a camera, but it is basically unusable at apertures much wider than f 8.0, even when enlarging from the 6x6cm format. Some triplets are quite good at modest apertures, such as the Zeiss Novar. Frankly, Yashica always made a second rate quality camera in its TLR models. and they used relatively poor lenses, including the 4-elemment Tessar copy, their Yashinon. Being a TLR freak at one time, I had occasion to do "on film" resolution and contrast tests on a half dozen major models one time while shopping for my "one and only". The "new in the box" 124G belonging to a friend tested as the worst lens (Tessar copy) I've ever found on a TLR, by a significant margin over the next best. (This included a Rolleiflex with Tessar, Rolleicord with Xenar, Ricoh Diacord - a much underappreciated camera. Best of bunch was a Minolta Autocord.) The idea of paying $400 - 600 for a 124G in the current used market is a cruel YT joke driven by pure hype and ignorance.
This was my first medium format camera. I bought it almost exactly 50 years ago and it helped me earn the money to study at Photography college. I found that the lens worked best close and over about 5 metres. At medium distances it seemed less crisp. After about 6 months I traded up to Mamiya C220 with a couple of interchangeable lenses and then to Hassleblad which was my main medium format camera for about 30 years until I transitioned to digital. BTW my Hassleblad cameras and lenses operated almost without fault over the decades and shot thousands of rolls in a very busy studio. Also BTW, you can produce excellent portraits with an 80 mm lens as long as you keep to a 3/4 shot and not a CU. I also used Pentax 6x7 and Linhoff rangefinder medium format cameras.
I also started MF properly with this camera. I had a couple of folders before that, but this was the first camera I was getting consistent and enjoyable results from. And I was very happy with it for a good couple of years. As you say, it's perfectly functional and capable, provided you work within its means - ie as you point out, portraits at 3/4 not CU. The reason I fell out of love with it was because it wasn't great at the things I wanted it to be great at. I want to shoot portraits super close up! But it is a great camera and I still recommend it to people.
See other vids for my thoughts on Hassleblads!! I actually would really love a Hasselblad, but they're so expensive, and they have that Hasselblad following, very similar to Leicas, of people who never actually used them for their original purpose, as a professional work horse, they've only recently acquired one. And those same people now criticise anyone who doesn't wrap them in cotton wool and have a room dedicated as a shrine to them.
To compare camera ownership to car ownership - the modern Hasselblad owners are the guys who go to car shows with their Jaguar E-Type and spend way more time polishing the hood than driving the car. I would much rather own a vintage Land Rover, get covered in grease keeping it running, but use it to explore the world and stick 100k miles on it.
Each to their own I suppose!
@@the120ist I just remembered, the first medium format reflex camera was the very interesting , and quite rare, Norita. It was a bit like a square format Pentax 6x7. The best thing about it was the 80mm f2 (!) lens which had that lovely not soft but not quite sharp look when wide open which was lovely for portraits in natural light. It also meant, using Tri X or similar , that you could shoot in very low light. Because it was a big heavy thing you could squeeze off a shot at 1/8 at F2. The lens was quite sharp stopped down. It also had an excellent 200 mm. Unfortunately I traded it but over the years I’ve really missed that 80mm.
I'm a bit late for the party, but I got a 635 and the 35mm kit and it doesn't expose the sprocket holes. It includes a 35mm filmguide plate you've got to insert and it covers the holes (it als got the winding sprockets that grab into the sprocket holes). The screen is indeed not very bright, but it's brighter than my Rolleicord IV tlr.
Which film will be suitable for this camera?
Hey, you can use any 120 film in this camera. If you check out my videos you'll find one all about 120 film, what it is, how to use it etc. Hope that helps!
@@the120ist Thanks for your reply , also want to know what's 100 means in it ? Like 100mm because on camera's backcase , it mentions that 100 or 35mm film so that's why I am confused that which one should I go for and also heard that if we want to use 35mm directly so it requires some sort of conversion kit 🤔
I don't know if anyone would use it, but it also has a "Sports-finder Frame" that's opened by pressing down on the Y logo in the hood. The 35mm conversion kit includes a frame that's mounted using those two little pegs on it, so it can be used on both "modes".
I knew the sports finder was there, but to be honest I've tried it and I'm not sure how you're supposed to use it with any accuracy! I think at best it sort of gives you a bit of a guide to which way you're pointing, but there's a good chance I'm not doing it right!
Didn't know that the 35mm kit came with a guide frame though, that's interesting. Thanks for the info!
Because TLR or any waist level finder reverse the image the sports finder is good for following action (sports) after setting focus to a hyperfocal distance.
I recently picked up a Yashica Mat-124 with a stuck shutter but cosmetically was in fantastic shape. I sent it off to Mark Hama for a little TLC and just got it back. When I picked it up it came with a full set of colored filters, lens hood, and close focusing (+1) set. I can't wait to put some film through. I was looking for a 635, but saw the Mat-124 with all the chrome goodness and fell in love. lol Another great review.
The 124s are sooo nice! I have camera envy. I do love my 635, and it works for me so I won't be changing it any time soon... but if it ever broke, well I'd be looking hard at a 124! Enjoy!
Fab vid. I've just the last week bought a Yashica LM and its absolutely stunning. The photos/negs are stunning, sharp with a lovely softness. It took me a while to get one after spending quite a few years with a Lubitel. This though and the LM (and all the quality TLR) are simply exceptional. Again, fabulous video. Thanx and greetings from East London :-)
Thank you! They're really great cameras, I'm a big Yashica fan! After using that lubitel you should find this a big step up in quality and ease of use! Good luck with it, enjoy!
This is hands down the best review on this camera i've seen to date.. He answered everything about this camera instantly... Very intimate setting. I felt like he was across the room explaining it to me personally.. And that's in my opinion how a review should be. .
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it and found it useful. The 635 is a great little camera, robust and good quality. Definitely a good one to try!
I have a 1957 Yashica Mat with a 75mm 3.5 Lumaxar lens which is very sharp. I bought it from a friend.
I ran a Wedding and press phototography business in the 1960s using two Yashica Mats, one bought secondhand and the other one was new. Great cameras that never let me down.
They’re rock solid aren’t they? I get excited about other cameras, and can sometimes go a bit off the 635, but then whatever the other camera is lets me down and I come running back!!
I have only two cameras that I trust completely, the Canon AE-1 in 35mm, and this Yashica in MF. Tank of a camera, I’ll never let this one go!
@@the120ist I have a recent find from a charity shop, a Yashica fxd quartz with a 50mm f2 lens. I replaced the perished body covering with a £11 pre cut kit on eBay. Its now my favourite 35mm slr. I like it more than my Nikon FE and my Pentax Spotmatic.
Hey :) I just got one and cannot figure how to change the ASA
Hey, congratulations on the new camera! You're going to love it.
No ISO/ASA settings on this one because it is a fully manual camera. There's only an ISO setting on cameras with meters or some sort of auto function, so that the auto function knows how to adjust the exposure.
This camera won't be adjusting any exposure for you, you'll do that in your light meter, or in your head etc. Then you'll dial in those settings to your shutter speed and aperture on the camera.
Make sense?
@@the120ist wow i just learned something new :) thank you!
I use the iPhone Light meter pro app for exposures.
There is a wide and tel kit
I have the kit it works great.
hi! where did you get your light meter? I love the design.
Maybe someone already said this (somewhere here), but the minimum focusing distance is 1 meter, so as you said, not a close up macro camera indeed.
Totally, not great for macro in it's off the shelf form. You can get useful bayonet mount add on lenses though, which do allow macro. But if macro is your thing, it's probably not the right camera to go for!!
The first camera I used professionally lovely old thing. Just bought another 44 years later with the 35 mm kit . Looking forward to useing it ..
I loved this camera, good solid shooter. I never had the 35mm kit though, I'd be interested to know how you get on with it, and if it becomes something you use regularly, or maybe it's just a bit of a gimmick?? Who knows!
Not a gimmick a proper work hourse I did dozens of weddings with this camera it made me money.
Then changed for a mamiya 220 then 330 then bronica sqa then hasselblad after digital which I never enjoyed. There is some thing magical about film photography a skill that is a joy..
We can't see the minimum focusing distance because the camera and your monitor are not in the same shot, and you didn't tell us how close that is. Just what is the minimum focusing distance.
I'm sorry! My monitor was just off screen to the right, minimum focus distance is about 3 foot 3 inches, or 1 metre. Doesn't sound too bad when you state it like that, but I find myself struggling to get close enough for portraits really quite often.
@@the120ist Thanks for following up. Most cameras have a closeup adapter (a two-element lens) which adds on to the taking lens, and allows you to focus closer.
I have a close-up filter kit for the 635, but I think I have a number 2 close up filter, and it's kind of restrictive the other way - your range of focus is limited to something like 8 inches - 18 inches. I believe there is a number 1kit which is less aggressive, but the filters I have are pretty narrow in what they let you do!
I enjoy mine. The self timer was broken and the shutter stuck. I watched some videos and took out the mechanism. Now it works great. I also had to clean all the glass. Now it's nice and bright.
They're great cameras aren't they? I love mine. When I got it it was working just fine though, and still is, so I'm reluctant to take it apart while it's working ok! But it really really needs a clean... if it gets any more dust inside it I won't be able to see anything though the viewfinder! It's probably time I gave it a clean!!
@@the120ist I tore the leather front cover and had to buy another on Ebay.
Ah that sucks! The leatherette covers are fragile on yashicas. I’m about to strip my Bronica and re-skin it because the leatherette has peeled away all over, but it’s so much tougher than my yashica, it’s like rhino hide!
@@the120ist yeah it was so brittle. The cover was about 12USD if I remember. I goober'd it up a little but that's ok. I don't plan on selling it.
Congratulations! I've watch many videos about this camera, but your video was most complete. Thanks a lot!
Thank you, I'm so glad you found it useful.
Thank you. Your comments are so clear and concise. I was given a Yashica-635 two years ago. I now plan to try it out. I want to get that waste level feel framing.
It's a wonderful camera, for sure. I really enjoyed mine for quite a few years. The WLF does take a little getting used to... I still get myself in a tangle with WLFs now!
@@the120istUnfortunately, mine has the 35mm adapter kit. But that kit seems to be missing a piece (a shaft) in the film cassette compartment. Do you know if that kit can be removed?
I have just bought one of these cameras so i enjoyed watching your review. What happens at the end when you wind the film onto the take up spool, does that get sent of to the developer and fo you get it back?
Hey Henry, congrats on the new camera! I hope you have many happy years shooting with it.
I think you're asking about the spool itself, right? I had the same question when I first shot a roll of 120.
The take up spool that likely came with your camera is not a part of the camera, it's just an old film spool. They are all old film spools. The spool your film arrives on and the spool it rolls on to are exactly the same. Some designs differ, but they all do exactly the same thing, there's no difference between a take-up spool and a film spool.
If the 635 you bought came with a spool already in it, then that was just the spool from a previous film. A responsible seller should always leave an empty spool in the camera... although you may have found it in the wrong place (ie at the bottom).
So, you take the exposed film out on the take up spool, seal it with the tape that is part of the end of the 120 film, and then treat if carefully and try to keep it in darkness or in a box, because 120 films aren't as light-tight as a 35mm canister. If it's loosely wound light can creep into the edges.
Send that exposed film off to the developers, spool and all, and move the empty spool that your film started on from the bottom to the top, and that becomes your new take-up spool for the next film you put in. Make sense?
If you start developing at home then you'll keep a couple of those spools, just to have spares, but I have never needed a spare, and I now bin them. You can also buy empty spools on eBay if you want some spares. But rest assured, they are all the same!
@@the120ist thankyou, and yes there is an empty spool in the camera. Another question, and i see you don't have the 35mm adapter which i have. I presume that the 35mm winder on the side would be used to wind your film back into the spool the film came in, and would the counter work above the short 120 film eg count up to 36 exp?
Well... now here's something I don't know the answer to! I have opened up my 635 and tried to work out how it would turn the counter, but I can't work it out.
I assume that a 35mm film must wind the opposite way to 120, top to bottom, so the left hand side rewind knob would then allow you to wind it all back into the canister. So maybe the film counter has more numbers in the opposite direction??
I confess, I don't know. And now you've made me want to go get a 35mm adapter kit to find out.
There also seems to very little info out there on the internet about the 35mm kit and how it works. So I may well get one and do a video on it.
Sorry I can't be of more help. Best advice is get a cheap 35mm film that you don't mind losing, and just got ahead and try things out!
Got one at a house clearance auction tonight, really looking forward to exploring it.
Ahh congratulations! Great purchase, you're going to love it. The 635 was one of the first medium format cameras I got and it's still one of my favourites. Many cameras have come and gone, but this one is still on my shelf. Enjoy your camera!
Hi how do you get the film out an see picks ? ive got one but not sure if it works
I'm not sure I understand the question! Do you mean how do you get the film out to get it developed? With the camera facing away from you (as if you're taking a picture) there's a silver knob top left which pulls out to allow you to take the film out. Is that what you mean?
To nie prawda. 635 nie zaswietla calej kliszy razem z dziurkami. Kiedy uzywa sie zestawu do filmu 135 jest tam maska zakrywajaca dziurki. I negatyw wychodzi poprostu panoramiczny z niezaswietlonymi brzegami.
Dzięki za wytłumaczenie! Słyszałem to odkąd nakręciłem wideo. Źle to zrozumiałem. Czy nie ma sposobu, w jaki można go używać bez maski? Aby odsłonić dziury?
@@the120ist tak można tez bez maski, jednak wtedy może nie być docisku odpowiedniego tylnej ścianki do filmu
You can get a bright replacement ground glass for it.
I bet, I have replaced the ground glass on the WLFs on my Bronicas and my Rolleicord, but haven't got around to doing this one. I think the first thing I need to do is clean it!! Thing is though, because it works perfectly, I'm kinda hesitant to take it apart. But I should. And I will! Add it to the list...
Cracking camera never used a TLR yet I saw a bloke in town at the weekend using a lubitel tried to buy it off him he basically told me to bugger off cause he loves it
I quite like shooting with TLRs... maybe not over an SLR, but they're fun and trying to frame with the image reversed takes a bit of getting used to! I would say you definitely need to try it!
@@the120ist if you say so mate then I Deffo will 📷❤️📷
@@paultaylorphotography9499 Sent you a message on Instagram
@@the120ist mate I came off Insta ages ago I got sick of posting what I work hard to shoot only to get 20 likes so what’s the point saying that I still plug away regardless on the YT channel for next to bugger all views but end of the day I actually enjoy the YT thing
Totally with you on that one. I keep the insta going just so that maybe a few people might find me on there and follow the link to here. So who did I just send a message to on insta?? Looks like you! If you still have access to it go have a read. If you don’t I’ll try another way!
Great info for a newbie as I am. I noticed a little switch on the side of the aperture dial. You’ve got yours set on the up position, but what is it for?
It's to do with the flash sync... there's a bit of conflicting information out there on the internet, so I'm not 100% on this, but in theory if you're using a modern flash hooked up via the PC port which is just above this lever, you should have the lever in the X position. The M position is for older flash bulbs which fire in a different timing with the shutter.
In the X position the sync speed is 1/60 and in the M position it syncs at any speed. No idea why this would be, anyone out there want to enlighten us??
I'm also told that if you try to use the self-timer (the lever with the red dot situated below the taking lens) then the flash sync lever must be in the X position. If you try to use the self timer with that lever in the M position, it can cause your shutter to jam, potentially unrecoverable!
I've never tried to use the self timer or the flash sync port, so I only know what I've read on the internet!
@@the120ist don't try to use the timer with the flash selector set to " M " it might jam up
Nice review👍
Hey, thanks for watching!
Hello, do you know how to adjust the ASA on this camera?
Hey Taylour... what you mean by adjust the ASA? It’s a fully manual camera, so the ASA is the speed of the film you put in it. There’s no setting you can change for it. Does that make sense?
@@the120ist Hello, thank you for your response.
But what if I am putting in a different speed film (100 vs 400)? There is no way to adjust the camera for what film speed you are using? I noticed there are different ASA labeled on the knob to advance the film.
Hey Taylour, as it's fully manual the camera doesn't need to know what ASA the film is. You will need to input your ASA into your light meter in order to get the correct aperture and shutter speed, but as the camera isn't changing anything automatically, it doesn't need to know.
In a camera with an on board light meter, and some auto functionality, you need to change the ASA setting so that the camera can calculate its automation based on the film speed.
Some fully manual cameras have an ASA dial, but only as a reminder to you of what speed film you put in it, so you don't forget and can't find out without opening the camera. And that's exactly what the ASA markings are on the film advance knob, just a reminder to you of what film you put in so that you can put that setting into your light meter.
You'll find that the ASA/DIN markings have two pins on opposite sides of the wheel. The ASA/DIN part moves independently of the film advance knob, with a little gentle persuasion. Your film advance knob should also have a red dot on it somewhere, although mine has worn off! Get your nails behind those little pins and spin the numbers until your film speed lines up with the red dot, and there is your reminder!
It has no function other than as a reminder to you though. It's not a setting, just a marker. Peronsally I don't use it, I stick a piece of masking tape on the back and write on what film's in the camera!
Hope that helps. Happy shooting.
How disappointing name of the camera, i thought is shoots 6x3.5 format🤣
Ahhh, alas no, dual format 6x6 and 35mm! I don't know if I've heard of a 6x3.5!
6 by 6 isn't 6cm by 6cm ;)
Thanks for the vid !
Errrr isn’t it???
Right...it's 60mm X 60mm. 😁
I have it
It’s a great camera isn’t it? Hope you’re enjoying yours!
Yes it is. I want to sell it. Do you know how much it's worth
Prices are going up and down at the moment, they peaked last year when 635s were selling for £150+ on eBay, but they seem to have settled a little, and going for £80-£120 here in the UK!
I am from Morocco and I want to sell it
@@yousraabatouy6584 Best of luck! I hope you find a buyer
Saya juga ada untuk dijual
semoga berjaya dengan penjualan!