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I think the close up's are darker because of bellows greater extension that require either longer exposure or opening the stop. In my experience exposing the bleached paper too long to light will darken the image.

I'm very new to the darkroom so it was so nice to see your honest failures in the first part (it's not just me)... forgetting to change the f.stop ... I had worse... exposing a nearly full box of paper.... (omg!). I particlarly found the differences in grain between scan and print of great interest .... I'll be taking note of that. Thanks very much for the videos you upload and your excellent and very practical presentation. In fact some of your videos helped me decide to experiment with pinhole photography which I have come to love. Speaking of which... I have some rolls of Lomography Berlin 400 and Potsdam 100 but can find no information regarding reciprocity failure (neither for Ferrania P30 nor P33)... any advice on that would be more than welcome. Thanks again.

Everytime you talk to the camera down by the dock it makes my teeth itch you didn't shoot that weirdly symetrical kiosk thing behind you.

Thank you for the nice review😊 I love my Fujucas GL690, GM670 and GS645pro😊 small, light and amazing rendering... Also, if you can find GL690/GM670 lens barrel without optics, you can adapt Mamiya Press lenses to the GL690/GM670 system, especially famous Press 100mm f2.8😊

I'm curious since doing the reverse on a negative causes a backward image could you expose the paper from the back side to give a proper orientation of the image. This would of course require a longer exposure. I think a single weight paper would work well for that.

Answered my question about red filters in portrait photography! Thanks!

Nice video. Thank you RS. Canada

More volume!! I built my own pinhole from found parts, it cost me less than 7 dollars! I use coke cans drilled to 40 thousands and epoxied to steel washers and held in place with magnets! I get sharp images with an asa of 100 at 4 inches on 4x5 film or paper negatives. I've enlarged several negatives to 20x24 with excellent results

Very interesting. Beautifully done images by Guy!

MEK is very dangerous to breathe.

So I was sitting here trying to check my M645 was still working but having problems with the wind locking and the shutter button locking. Now I hear it needs a battery or it won't work! Hope you are right. Ordered a new one.

I have a k&f cpl + nd filter nano x pro series. And it the goat

Great video. Thank you

My recollection (caveats apply) is that a polarizer imposes a couple of stops reduction in incoming light. So, a 3ND reduction makes sense for the VND combination. I run a 1/8 black diffusion filter on my X100V all the time. It makes the resulting images look quite a bit more "filmic" with a little bloom around bright areas. I like it. Fun stuff!

I have been using the Maven magnetic system and it is very well made. Just wish they would do a yellow, orange and red analogue filter set.

Around 18:18 I thought the dominant effect of the pro mist was on the shadows, unless I was seeing effects of camera side reflection. Not enough specularity to show it's thing until back in the studio.

great video!! Do you know where the GX680 can be serviced or repaired? Im in the US.

19th century you'd have been a gentleman experimenter. Top hat and cravat

What iso is the paper?

What surprised me was the green filter. It darkened the trees and grass meanwhile yellow filter increased their brightness,which made me wonder, whether the leaf green is made up more of yellow than green itsel. Can Anyone help me to understand better?

Would be nice to have access to these pictures, as the green landscape looked good to me

Thanks super clear explanation

Bought an entire collection of several lens, a body, and backs for less than $300. Was an awesome camera with some quirks that needed learning. Sad to have sold it because there were few issues for the price.

How do u take the film out after pictures? Or do u have to take it out in a special dark room

What I don‘t like is the relatively dark viewfinder compared to my other slrs and the missing split-image focusing. Focusing is not easy with this camera.

hey, maybe at 9:01 thats why most plate holders are different, aka like a picture frame, loaded from the back, secured with a pressure plate, and the darkslide works on a separate plane to the plate, so nothing can catch the slide on the way in\out.

My experience with the Harmon direct positive paper was that it is sensitive to UV light, so I would shoot at ISO 2 at mid-afternoon, but ISO 3 or 4 late in the day. If this is true, then the effects of clouds and fog or general atmospheric vapor must affect the amount of UV, which isn't measured by our light meters. As such, it's a guessing game mostly that you must play intuitively. Add in filters and water and the dice are loaded. One trick borrowed from printing paper in the darkroom you can try is to do multiple exposure times on the same paper by using your darkslide. Mark the darkslide into thirds using a permanent marker. Set up a shot that has a two second exposure target. Pull the darkslide to the first mark, and do a two second exposure. Now pull the darkslide to the second mark and expose for one second. Pull the darkslide out altogether and do another one second exposure. Now the paper has three exposures: one second, two seconds and four seconds. If your target was two seconds, your paper shows one exposure at stop, one under a stop and one over a stop (in the order (-1, 0, +1)). This can help you locate the correct ISO and exposure to use more quickly, and eliminates some of the variables while testing.

120ist the reason they are called 'wet plate', is the fact the collodion is a replacement for albumen in the process, aka egg white, so everything up to the fixing and staining in the darkroom has to be done while the collodion is loose and wet, once this 'base' is dry nothing will stick, aka stains, like lacquering a piece of wood, nothing sticks. Dry plates where the next innovation/invention, to make the process a lot slower so one can do things with more thought, and not having to have the "ice-cream truck" with you to develop the tin or glass plates; as the time was so short; rather, you can shoot and go home to develop at your own pace (relatively speaking), it hadn't got to the speed of todays acetate backed 135 120 and 4x5" sheet film stocks, that came later, in the 1950's or so, when Kodak designed it.

Certainly not as much fun, but Harmon has a direct positive paper that uses ordinary paper developer (e.g., Dektol), with no bleach, to get a positive print. It's a high contrast look that is very sensitive to exposure levels, and so is difficult to shoot. The Bellini process probably has better mid-tones and the flash procedure has some perks, so both processes have their pros and cons. The Harmon process can be done in the same tank I use to develop 4x5 negatives, so is more convenient but is more expensive. By the Bellini process description, similar to C41, I would guess that the second development should be to completion, assuming the bleach has done its job. Control comes from the camera exposure and first development timing. Pull the paper from the first developer when it looks right, bleach, clarify, and then develop to completion. Developing to completion on the second developer should give you deep blacks and good highlights.

Very interesting video! I’m curious to know how Pliobond 25 would work out. It is available on Amazon. I use it to apply new seals and bumpers on my vintage SLRs’.

It don’t show the sprocket. The kit has blocks that.😊

A great camera. I have one and the 35 mm kit and the wide and tel lenses

I've recently purchased an RB67 Pro S with a matte focussing screen and I do wonder how accurate I will be when focussing. I'm tempted to get a split ring focussing screen from brightscreen. I've got one on order for my Bronnie ETRSi so I'll give that one a go first. I've just checked my film back and it doesn't suffer from the problems yours has (phew!). I had already noticed that the mounting of the film back in the shell is simply not good enough for a 'pro' body and I can see how they would get damaged when used in a professional environment (it's fine for a 'once in a blue moon' level of use).

Very helpful! Just curious, what brand of caliper are you using?

Pleased for you with your last shot.

Sitting here wondering why yellow has such a big difference on contrast for grey stones, grey sky, muddy field. 🤷

Great demonstration, plus funny at the end !!

hi! where did you get your light meter? I love the design.

Cut off the lens hood and put your filters on with a rangefinder hood with slots screwed into filter threads.

Could you put an aperture mask over the lens to slow down the shutter time ? Though figuring out the maths for this ?

I liked the results in some of them, they had a sort of nostalgic feel too them. As if the were shot in a vintage camera from the early 1900's!

I would say NO SUPERGLUE near a camera!!!! Looks like E6000 is the winner. My uncle used to use UHU a lot, this was a good video as I was considering this but I like the E6000 results better.

I have a 'Rolleicord II' and the very strong advice I was originally given was to use a dedicated 'square' 'Rolleicord' Lens Hood and...yes....it really makes a difference. Not saying that is the solution to your problem but it is most certainly worth a thought and perhaps a second try ?

Great video. Looks like loads of fun with that setup. Interestingly you always need to account for 'bellows correction' if you ever shoot macro people talk about effective F numbers - which are the same thing. However, when you shoot portraits on 135 the reproduction ratio is like 1:15 whereas on 4x5 it's like 1:3. It's just because on LF you shoot everything close up because the film size is so large.

28:02 I find it amusing that you're basically making an ultra large format polariod big shot, haha. Just found your channel. This is great, thanks for sharing these projects. Those images are great.

EDIT: worked but it needs a lof of light. A ton of light

Wow! The second lens' bokeh/ background blur makes it look like a beautiful church mosaic or oil painting while the main subject (you) are perfectly in focus!

Just picked one up from Facebook for £250 :D

Any experience repairing a faulty pc sync port on the S2A?

Perfect and super useful video! I love the red filter, thanks again!