Thank you, I have just had to watch my own video to remind myself of which bit you meant, but as soon as I saw it I knew and yes, LEAVE SOME METAL!!!!! I hate seeing it disappear in sparks.
@@MicallefMade I stumbled onto your site, and I liked what you were doing. I am kind of jealous as well as I want to do the same thing. But here in Oz, the defender is not that common 2nd hand. Cheers
Top work 👍I’m impressed ,the rear crossmember is indeed a mud shelf ,they came from the production line already rusting🥴. Enjoying your content immensely.
Loving this build more and more ! Original chassis, original dash ! My last project car was a VW New Beetle that I did concours with and I am so over pristine bodywork ! The odd little knock or dent just adds character. You don't need 20" wheels and mile deep paintwork to have fun. I have far more fun driving my old Landie than I ever did in my sump scraping, garage queen VW ! Love that new crossmember too !
Hi @club86, unfortunately it is a home made thing. I bought a pair of rams for another project and they didn't suit because they were too powerful, but they worked well for lifting the bonnet with wheel. If you want any close up pictures or details send me a message and I will send them over to you. I might even be able to find the second ram.
@tbruce-sawsandsplitting thank you. Yes, I got a bit of box section and capped the ends off, and then I sleeved the holes where the tow hitch bolts go so that no moisture can get inside the box and rot it out from the inside.
@@tbruce-sawsandsplitting I bought my welder and steel for less than it was the buy a quarter chassis and cross member. And if I may say so, it is built to a much higher standard
One can't fault the workmanship but one has to question the rationale behind putting a X member fabricated from 6mm plate onto a frame fabricated from 2mm plate.
@defendermodsandtravels I completely understand what you mean. The main two reasons are, firstly, it adds a bit more protection should I bump into something or someone bump into me, pushing down the length of the 2mm chassis is stronger than pushing the corner if I caught it on something. Secondly and mainly, because it was free steel 😂
@@MicallefMade If it was a freebie that's a different matter. I wouldn't worry about little bumps - Edna will win most arguments. I have just replaced the bottom flange on the LH rear corner of my Defender and used a bit of steel cut from the old battery box which is just under 2mm thick. Because one can't keep the mud out I have made holes underneath where I can flush out with a hose. This approach has worked well and I have very little rust on a 33 year old vehicle.
@@defendermodsandtravels Haha, I hope she doesn't have to win many arguments. After watching your video I have just removed my battery box and I am waiting for it to arrive and refit. You were right that it is a sod without taking the seat box out. Rust and ally rot, the two worst nightmares.
Thanks for part 2 ;)
I am glad you like it
at last someone who knows what they are talking about with grinding back the weld, ive always thought this u need to go that bit deeper on a weld,
Thank you, I have just had to watch my own video to remind myself of which bit you meant, but as soon as I saw it I knew and yes, LEAVE SOME METAL!!!!! I hate seeing it disappear in sparks.
Thank you, really enjoyed the part 2, Cheers
That's great, I will endeavour to get another video done in the next couple of months.
@@MicallefMade I stumbled onto your site, and I liked what you were doing. I am kind of jealous as well as I want to do the same thing. But here in Oz, the defender is not that common 2nd hand. Cheers
Top work 👍I’m impressed ,the rear crossmember is indeed a mud shelf ,they came from the production line already rusting🥴.
Enjoying your content immensely.
@@V8guy3500 Thank you very much, I really appreciate the comment.
Loving this build more and more ! Original chassis, original dash ! My last project car was a VW New Beetle that I did concours with and I am so over pristine bodywork ! The odd little knock or dent just adds character. You don't need 20" wheels and mile deep paintwork to have fun. I have far more fun driving my old Landie than I ever did in my sump scraping, garage queen VW !
Love that new crossmember too !
That's so good to hear, enjoy the old girl and its quirks. And thank you very much
Satisfying to watch my friend..love the way you made that rear cross member..looks strong and heavy duty..
Thank you very much.
Well, this is fun to watch. The old girl is coming along nicely now. Good welding there, looks solid on that cross member. 👍🏼
Thank you, I will keep making the videos when I can. Sharing the story is almost as fun as the work it's self
@@MicallefMade I’m glad to hear you say that. Keep up the good work.
Looking forward to part 3.
Thank you, I am hoping to have another one done in 6 weeks or so
Great work looks a good, strong job.
Thank you very much.
brilliant series on the rebuild bro
Thank you very much. Hopefully the next video will be in the next month or so.
@@MicallefMade ill sub u bro seen pt1
Hi mate, doing something very similar with my grandfather's 110 Hi-cap. Have you got a link to that underbonnet gas strut at all? Thanks!
Hi @club86, unfortunately it is a home made thing. I bought a pair of rams for another project and they didn't suit because they were too powerful, but they worked well for lifting the bonnet with wheel. If you want any close up pictures or details send me a message and I will send them over to you. I might even be able to find the second ram.
Waooooo lovely proje5
Thank you very much
That rear cross member looks solid as a rock, need that on mine!
Did you get it as box section and cut the ends?
@tbruce-sawsandsplitting thank you. Yes, I got a bit of box section and capped the ends off, and then I sleeved the holes where the tow hitch bolts go so that no moisture can get inside the box and rot it out from the inside.
@ bomb proof! Very glad I came across your channel mate, I was gonna buy a cheapo of eBay but won’t be doing that anymore!!
@@tbruce-sawsandsplitting I bought my welder and steel for less than it was the buy a quarter chassis and cross member. And if I may say so, it is built to a much higher standard
@@MicallefMade certainly looks a lot better than the ones I’ve looked!
One can't fault the workmanship but one has to question the rationale behind putting a X member fabricated from 6mm plate onto a frame fabricated from 2mm plate.
@defendermodsandtravels I completely understand what you mean. The main two reasons are, firstly, it adds a bit more protection should I bump into something or someone bump into me, pushing down the length of the 2mm chassis is stronger than pushing the corner if I caught it on something. Secondly and mainly, because it was free steel 😂
@@MicallefMade If it was a freebie that's a different matter. I wouldn't worry about little bumps - Edna will win most arguments.
I have just replaced the bottom flange on the LH rear corner of my Defender and used a bit of steel cut from the old battery box which is just under 2mm thick. Because one can't keep the mud out I have made holes underneath where I can flush out with a hose. This approach has worked well and I have very little rust on a 33 year old vehicle.
@@defendermodsandtravels Haha, I hope she doesn't have to win many arguments. After watching your video I have just removed my battery box and I am waiting for it to arrive and refit. You were right that it is a sod without taking the seat box out. Rust and ally rot, the two worst nightmares.