Thanks for showing my green screen room!! It's a complete cyclorama wall with 1/8 thick flexible board framed out and floating. It's a complete stage. I didn't start with the wall, I started with the room, which is why it's green (technically a darker green) then later added that cyclorama wall. Also all wiring is cable managed under the desk as it's a standing/sitting desk.
Makes me think about the one Tarkov TH-camr's intros that incorporate him into the game space to talk about the game, would be neat to see that in other game spaces like for example Half Life Alyx for instance.
Thanks, Jay! Glad you like the direction my retro TRS-80 project is going! I actually have active cooling added with 4 NF-F12s, 2 at the bottom for intake and 1 at the top for exhaust for a positive pressure setup - those fans came in after I took the pics. Nothing is in final assembly yet - I just took a few photos while fit testing and testing temps, etc. The display was challenging. Had to find an LCD that was about a 12" 4:3, large enough to fill the space, but small enough to fit the case while keeping some of the original black bezel look since the factory bezel is shaped to a CRT.
@@jasonmollett5308 Looks like a great start in a confined space. First mod attempt for me too and I still have a lot of work to do on it - I was just lucky to have so much volume to work in with the Model 4. I didn't have an original keyboard to re-engineer back into the system either but I looked into finding one and trying. Just ended up going with a new mechanical keyboard and going to build a new platform panel around it to make it flush. We'll learn from them and make them better / make future mods even cleaner. Awesome job!
The acoustic panels @ 5:40 look like some sort of hybrid between sound absorption panels and sound diffusion panels. Sometimes you want to absorb particular frequencies or dampen reflections to minimize standing waves, but diffusion also helps keep a space feeling "alive" and not dull and dead and "0 reverb" by redirecting reflections with uneven surfaces. This is a very well-done home recording/small studio setup.
*TO ADDRESS "the difference between the soundclouds on the right and left versus the one in the center" (@ **5:19**)* - The fabric-covered "blocks" to the sides of center above listening position are conventional absorbers; i.e., they're basically fabric-covered Owens Corning 703 (or 704) used to attenuate low-to-high midrange reflection. The panel directly above (and on the side walls) is a *diffusor* or, more specifically, a Binary Amplitude Diffusor. Conventional diffusors used different depths and thicknesses of wood blocks and take up a lot more of the room due to their thickness; BADs use a specific hole pattern over a semi-absorbent material instead. Either way, diffusors "scatter" room reflections, which cuts down on splatter reflection without making the room too dead or dry. (In fact, diffusors can often make the room seem "bigger" and "less boxy"). BTW, the pitched walls (and ceiling) were probably done deliberately; (I'm guessing the room was purpose-built). When constructing a mix room, you want to avoid parallel walls (or floor and ceiling) to the greatest extent possible. This is also why the desk is away from the front wall; barring some exceptions (such as bass reflex monitors designed to be placed near a wall) you want your monitor speakers as far as practical from the floor, ceiling, and all walls.
Thank you for featuring my setup, Jay! I really appreciated your take on it. So much time, money, and effort went into finally getting the setup to where I really wanted it and it felt good to finally reach that level. Rock on, man! Also fyi, the EVGA build lives with my channel partner (and close friend) Wayne so that's why you didn't see it.
@@MrRyudragon aww yissssss! This video had great setups all around too! Would love to see Jay do remote radiator "dumb experiment" vid. Though its a legit thing so wouldn't actually be dumb, but either way I'd watch.
2:49 Column height is only a factor when you are trying to raise water into a tank (open ended tube). In a loop, as long as it's already filled you're only recirculating. Height would play no role here, however you are adding inertia and the constant friction of the liquid inside tubes. I'm more worried about increased overall pressure within his system, and the possibility of catastrophic leaks.
The negative head of the return pipe will cancel out the head of the pressure pipe. So like a counterweight in a pully system. So there will be no head loss other than that of the radiator as long as the pressure drop is not low enough to cause cavitation
Almost. It will cause problems for priming and airbubble clearance. And at this height there is no problem but at 30-40 ft you need to make sure you don't boil the water due to low pressure. To make it better, I would duct cold air from the floor. I've always wanted to see if I could make a fanless system with a chimney with a similar setup. And with this much height change, he could go thermosyphen with phase change.
Steamfitter here. This is correct. The total static head is equal in both risers. What goes up, must come down. The total friction losses in the system probably wouldn't be too great because the flow rate isn't that fast. The pump only needs to create enough fluid head to overcome the resistance to flow. And water generates 1 PSI of pressure for every 2.31 feet of height. This is how domestic water towers in towns and cities work. A pump fills the tower as needed, and gravity provides the water pressure to all the homes and businesses that use it.
DTX, I believe you nailed it. The longer tubes would reduce flow somewhat. There is more pressure on the components at the case level than the equipment is likely designed for. It does seem to be working however. I'd love to do something like that to blow warm air on my feet during winter gaming.
Jay, there will be pressure loss due to the length of tube but that water high above is also being pulled back down by gravity. You should do an experiment with a long coolant loop fully filled with fluid and run it horizontally and then run it vertically and measure the "head loss" in each setup. I think you'll be surprised at the results.
I thought the same thing, but I think what Jay was mentioning is the static pressure at the pump outlet. While having a pump at the bottom of a loop is the most efficient location, it also means the pump is constantly exposed to higher pressures, potentially increasing the wear and tear on the pump (but effectively, it would only be marginally).
@GamerBoyPS360 Basically, the effort the pump needs to push the water up the pipe (against gravity) is cancelled out by the water falling back down the other pipe (with gravity). So once the loop is full, the pump won't have any issues.
Wouldn't the top of the loop have a lower absolute pressure as a result? Its that tallest height of a straw problem, except offset slightly by a little pump. A Funny question of how high you could raise it before you end up boiling water inside the radiator when the system is under load.
Hi Jay... I just want to say thank you. Two years ago. I found your channel and it reignited the pc enthusiast lost to the humdrum day to day work that must be endured. Thanks to your channel I found my knowledge in pc building up to speed and have now built three pc's in my home. One for Myself, my wife ( who loved learning how to build a pc), and my son ( yes he helped build his as well.) Thank you so much for your awesome content. Im currently looking into building my own pc case to get the design i desire with water cooling incorporated. Thank you again.
I love that studio build. Jay, the panels you weren't sure about are used to break up the sound energy as well as absorbing the energy. Gives the room a little character so it doesn't sound "dead" while also stopping echos.
2:35 most of the problematic load for such a height is on the lower parts of the piping. For the pump itself is not much of a problem, since it's a closed circuit, the pressure from water going down would help compensate for the pressure required to pump the water up. The pumping loss (thus pump pressure difference) would be in the friction of the circulating liquid itself.
12:54 The RadioShack TRS-80 Model 4, with a whopping 4MB of RAM and two 5.25" floppy drives (where the holes are in the front of this wonderful mod. The one that started my IT life. "Yes, I'm old" as well. It was featured in the first Tron Movie (1983) as the computer used to program Tron himself. Lots of great memories.
Model 4 was my first computer so I had to do something interesting with this rough old case I was able to get. Still a work in progress with much left to do, but I'm trying to not modify the case itself - only clean/repair and fab parts to fit modern internals! Interior assembly/QC markings in sharpie show a date of June 1983. To Jay's point, positive pressure active cooling with bottom intake and top exaust using existing vents was already added to this just after photos were taken.
i just finished my first build and its working great. 7000d full tower, asus z690 hero, 12900k, 3090fe, 64gb 5200 ddr5, 2 - 2tb 980 nvme, and 2 LG 27GP950s. Seeing builds like these really inspired me and I'm absolutely loving the performance while gaming.
The sound panels with holes scatter sound, sometimes a tuned diaphragm is also used in scatter panels , just depends how far down the rabbit hole the acoustic tuning went….
The panels that look like cork board is a partial-reflective absorber. Reflects high frequencies while absorbing bass, put simply. The "shapes" are scattering diffusion. The shape is required for the physics to work. And the pitched roof isn't pitched; that front top corner is filled for bass trapping, same as the vertical corners. Very nice home studio room.
The sound panels with the holes in them are specifically cut to direct certain frequencies where they need to go. I've seen a few high end venues with the same thing all along the walls. Sounds amazing!
Jay I just wanted to say thanks for these kind of videos showing off all these awesome setups. I've been running a FX 8320 and evga 970 that's served me well for about 8 years now and I finally got my hands on a evga 3070ti at micro center while on vacation and I've been wanting to build a new pc for years now and hopefully someday soon I'll get to show off what I built on here someday
Absolutely spot-on Jay regarding some people (like myself) being severly negatively affected by clutter, mess or an unorganised workspace or similar areas. I just can't focus on a task at hand and get really stressed, and feel really hampered by an unorganised/messy/untidy environment. However, my 19-year old daughter and I are very similar in many aspects of our personalities, but when it comes to working hard and producing well, we're polar opposites - she functions best and is completely unfazed by her workspace being in a complete mess - that is "comfortable" for her and she doesn't find it unorganised etc. Best! /M
As for the external radiator, I remember maybe 15 or so years ago on a long gone Sim Racing forum somebody from one of the Scandinavian countries talking about how their PC is water cooled with the radiator down in the exposed crawlspace under their house. Kept the heat out of the house in the summer but still stayed cool because it doesn't really get too hot in the summer there.
Dres2Cents about radiators mounted high above the pump: the pump head pressure has not much to do with the height difference in your loop once it is filled. If you fill the loop from the highest point, you should be fine in any case. Only if you fill you loop with e.g. the pump/res at the bottom the pump has to overcome the highest point in the loop. Once 'the water goes down', this pressure evens out and the pump only has to work against all obstructions in the loop such as radiators and cooling blocks.
The absolute best thing anyone can do to keep their room, shop or any type of space clean and looking fantastic is to allocate 2 hours or so every Friday afternoon before you end the day and use that time to clean, organize and plan how your place wants to look. When I got my autoshop I made it a rule that two hours before closing we all clean the place from top to bottom no matter if it needed it or not! I might have OCD or something about stuff like that, hell I even clean and polish my tools, but It's such a satisfying feeling when you see everything is in its place, clean and in working order. It's the little things that make a difference and no matter if it's your house or a place of business, keeping things neat and tidy makes things so much easier and above all else, safer. I hate running around looking for stuff when there's a much easier way, and it doesn't take a lot of energy to put your tools back after you use them, no matter if you clean them or not that day. The funny thing is, my two employees are total scatterbrains when it comes to keeping things where it should be, and if any of us find tools where they don't belong, the "offender" have to put a donation into the blue monster as we call it (a cookie jar) and at the end of each month we usually use that money for something. Last month we donated it to the Red Cross! 😛
For a full closed loop, the elevation doesn't matter. The distance up is the same as the distance down. Once the system is full, the pump can hardly tell it's pumping up hill, since the downhill side is creating negative pressure equal to the pressure caused by working against gravity. Fittings, radiators and blocks are the biggest losses in a closed loop. Just wanted to chime in.
2:20 Top of a room is warmer than the bottom, have it at windows base or just below would allow more cold air pass over it i would assume? 23:00 100%, A clean and organized space can make a huge difference to ones mental health
Pump head pressure is not an issue in the first system as like you said the liquid moving down puts the same pressure on the system as the water going up. The main pressure would be from trying to move the volume of fluid in the system and the amount of friction from fittings and corners. If the level of the water when turned off is an inch below the top of the system the pump is working to push the water over that inch no matter whether it's inside the case or 12 feet above it. I believe the "head height" would be the difference between the top of the loop and the water level on the outlet pipe at the time water starts to flow over the top.
In the sound guys setup, the Panels with holes and the triangular back board are for diffusion. Trying to defuse sound waves by scattering the reflections rather than pure absurbtion. This still allows sound reflections to occur for a pleasant/balance reverb sound while trying to avoid phasing or peaks & Nulls in the frequencies.
2:53 I disagree about the head pressure. It's a loop, so while there is a common mode pressure between the radiator and the pump with the inlet and outlet lines, the pump only needs to produce a differential pressure across those lines for cooling. The head pressure sums to zero in a closed loop after you go up one line, then back down the other. The CM head pressure is maintained simply by the loop being sealed and the water not being able to push out of the system. Of course if you have a net displacement of water upward, in that case you would be correct, with one example being a well pump. Net displacement is zero here. That said, the pressure differential with respect to outside is greater, so there would be a greater pressure differential on all lower seals measured against the atmosphere. And I wrote that and someone already said it all basically. Posting anyway!
Spot on, I'm in the industrial pumping industry and this system is the same as a closed heating or cooling loop in buildings. Once the system is filled and sealed the only pressure the pumps see's is the friction of the fluid moving throughout the loop. The straw is only accurate for an open ended system.
@@benperkins7434 h * g * q = p. which means, the greater the hight the greater the pressure in fluids. its one of pascals many discovery's as a physicist. so jay is 100% correct in his judgment of the pressure in the loop, tho he do not explain it very well.
@@alexhjertsson Still, that applies to an open loop. Closed yes, its under pressure, but because you have water going down as well as up it cancels out
Regarding the music guy, the desk is not against the wall because you need to be in the ideal listening position of the room, which often means you have to move everything out a bit. You can also move absorbers an inch or so off the wall which will help them absorb longer wavelengths (i.e. lower frequencies) 🙂
Note on the first one, because it's a closed loop the pump isn't working any harder to push water up there because gravity is also equally helping pull it back down much like a sciphon works. If anything it's only harder because of the tube length.
2:24 I think the last step that could be done to the radiator is cutting a hole in a wall the size of the radiator, put some sort of rails, put radiator on them and slide it outside, so the hot air will completely leave the house. When it's time for the cleaning, just roll the radiator back to the house disassemble it.
Some really inspirational spaces here. Nice work to everyone featured. I really like these videos. Makes me want to work on my space, even if it's just cleaning it up!
8:30 haha, I did the electrical tape trick around the USB2, HD audio and front panel headers of my case as they used a fairly big amount of coloured cables there. It's hidden behind a GPU sag bracket, but at least it doesn't attract attention :) (My PSU has basic plain black cables)
I had an external rad for awhile with a fairly small PC in a cubby with a cabinet fan pulling hot air out of the cubby, and the tubes taking the majority of the heat through a wall to the external rad. I used a 5v relay that turned on the external fans when the PC power was on using an old USB cable, and the option in the bios that only turns on the USB when power is on. Thus the radiator and pumps that were in it only ran when the PC was turned on. It was kind of perfect, it cooled better than radiators inside the case that were getting hot air from the PC (for exhaust) and putting more hot air in the case (for intake), and it was quiet despite running the fans pretty close to full bore, because they were in a different room behind an insulated wall.
Jay no, what he needs is a mini monitor for displaying stats for each hole, like a task manager/discord screen up top and system temps/fan control at the bottom. Ventilation can be done via other spaces on the case since he has the whole back. @13:55
Music production setup: The Panels in the front (foam) only dampen high frequencies, the acoustic panels with the fabric are broadband absorbers and the panels with the woodc are kind of a hybrid between braodband absorber and sound diffuser. If you want good sound you will generally want to go for a mix of broadband absorbers and bass traps (here, this seems to be kind of emulated by the 2 panels in the corner that have air behind them) - if you just want to "deaden" the room, so you have no or very little reverb you can use foam only, but that will also take away a lot of the "brialliance" of the sound and still keep the booming of the low end. Chers
The front white panels behind the TV are there just for the looks. Maybe they diffusing the reflections a little but I just did them for aesthetic. You're on point with the hybrid ones! :D
Cork with holes are helmholtz resonators which are able to cut very specific frequencies vs. broad based absorption of panels. Pyramids scatter vs absorb. Cool set-up.
The music setup is HEAVENLY!!!!! I also really like the hexagon/Lego room. Obviously another very detail oriented person to make such a clean and professional looking FIRST setup!!!! You COULD do a desk build......you have beastly cars and drive on racetracks.....surely you know about lexan race car windows.....or maybe a sheet of bullet proof glass?!? 😉😉😉
I have to mention something about the first setup you have have shown. He has a germen nickname and is prpably from germany. Here in Germany windows open mostly from the top. Thats most likely the reason why he placed his external radiator right above it. In this case there would be acually a significant cooling affect when opened. At least in autumn, winter and spring.
In an open cold water tank in the roof of your house, yeh you need to push all the water up to the tank and water head pressure tells you how far you can do that. In a sealed radiator loop the water that drops down after the rad offsets the weight of the water being pushed up to it, e.g. elevator couter balance reduces motor needs to just 'getting it moving' rather than overcoming gravity, or when you syphon gas you don't have to push the water UP once there's water the other side of the hill pulling the liquid though (and an airtight seal to mean the only thing that can fill the space vacated by the falling fluid is the source liquid you want to rise). As long as the sides of the loop are the same hight (unavoidable if it's a loop, right?) the liquid is already in balance and the only load a pump faces when circulating is fighting the resistance of the fluid against the walls/fluid viscosity/smaller and faster flow appetures like in the heat exchanger/water block/radiator etc. Consider the sides of a wheel on a good bearing, the work to lift side of the wheel is offset by the energy released from lowering the other, the force required is just to overcome inertia and 'start it moving'. I think if you had an open res at the top of the loop and the system was no longer sealed (like your house's water headder tanks/cistern things) that the same situation would apply though, as the liquid falling down to the PC wound't then be able to get a 'good suck' on the water needing to be raised (air can get into the open res if there's negative pressure on the liquid) and the work of raising the liqud then falls soully on the pump/water utility head pressure. I.e. the water is being 'pushed' to the top of the loop, there is no 'pull' from the falling water because the space can be filled with air rather than only the source water. The length of the piping will add to resitance somewhat and there's more of a consideration for bleeding the loop with the high spot up there (more liable to get airlocked too?). At some point the pressue would be so low as to cause the water to boil, but far before then the liquid would further off gas (probably not the correct word) and any disolved gases be encouraged to bubble off, so presume having a very tall loop would increase the propensity for that to happen at the top. If it got too tall flexible pipe would start to pinch too, so yeh there's a limit to how far you can go, but the pressure caused by the weight of liquid in 1.5m or so of tubing is proably not the most problematic thing in this setup :D wow that's a lot of rambley text: TL;DR because top of loop looks to be sleaed in the 'ceiling rad' build, there's no additional head pressure required from the pump to get the liquid up there, only a bit more resistance due to extra piping
Elevators have counterweights. The pump in the first will be fine as long as the system is a closed loop without air in it. Theoretically (not physically obviously) you could put the cooler all the way up into space with the same pump. If you have the same amount of water pulling down as you want to push up it's just a balanced seesaw, very little force is needed to tip it over and it wouldn't matter how much weight was on each side as long as it's equal.
@ 3:35 That reminds me of my old Corsair Hydrocool 200 ex I has back in 2004-2005 on my pentium 4. I made a shelf for it to hang out the window in the winter time. gave me good temps!
for a while back in 2005 my radiator consisted of two 1m lengths of aluminium extrusion mounted outside my bedroom on the windowsill, worked really good in winter because Scotland, but not great when the sun was on them in summer. I sometimes used to get negative temps on start-up :)
Damn that glow up at the end, I have a tiny space from the town home where I have to basically have my desk & rig at the corner of our living room at my town home (house prices in my state are a complete mess right now) and I can't hang or change much and seeing awesome setups that utilize small spaces like that are always awesome. One day I'll get to actually fix up a space dedicated just to my build, for now I gotta make due haha
I have a Husky Work Table as a Stand Up Gaming Desk. The Tower is attached under the desk surface with a bracket. (just bragging but the desk has 35+ minutes of battery backup) I also have a Logitech Sub-Bass monster that is Bottom Firing. The bass is flipped upside down and bungee corded to the underside of the desk so the bass travels through the entire surface. Most of the wiring is pinned to the underside of the desk and I will probably conceal the wire in conduit. The desk is getting heavy and I will soon add some air struts for hatchbacks so I can essentially 'remove' around 50kg of perceived weight from the desk.
The first setup would be better with the external rad near the floor, cold air sinks, so it would theoretically get a cooler supply through the fans / rad
I just ended modding my desk into a bigger top and more shelves for more space, finally after 2 years wanting to do, so i spent nearly 2 days doing all the cable management on the back. Its so many cables but i think ive done what i wanted which was putting them managed individually for the reason you mentioned in the video xD
The hydrostatic pressure for a 1 meter / 3.28 foot column of water - regardless of the diameter of the column, is 1.42 psi. So, if that rad mounted at the roof in the first PC build is 3.28 feet - or roughly 40 inches - above the level of the pump, then it only needs to generate an extra 1.42 psi above what it would have to generate if it was mounted at the same level as the reservoir / cooling block. I don't think that's going to cause a pump failure or a flow deficiency.
Here's a tip for people trying to manage desktops with no backing to hide the cables behind... get some zip tie mounts that can be screwed into the to bottom of the desktop. Screw the power strip to the bottom and wall warts can be mounted with 3M Command strips.... and, of course, a shit ton of zip ties. Maybe not the best solution if you're always changing stuff out, but it's the cleanest way I've found to deal with tops with no space to manage cables.
First System: I would put the radiator not where the warm air ends up, but where the cool air lays. So put it to the ground. The warm air will raise to the ceiling and the radiator will push new cold air through. My five cents :D
Jay - on the table build thing. There is glass solid enough that it will handle just about anything, so if you get like glass used for a jewelers display case you will be fine.
Since I am from Germany, I was very entertained when Jay tried to read out the username of the first Guy. In Englisch the Username would have meant someting like "rudely honest". An American trying to read german words, my day is safed. Thank zu for all the inspiration all the time.
I'm definitely a clutter and chaos person. I need my space to look like it just got hit by and EF4. I've tried clean and neat and it just sets off my obsessive tendencies. I end up spending the majority of my focus obsessively on what ever temporary new elements I'm introducing into the space and how it disrupts the uniformity instead of being in the creative or logistical headspace I need to be in to get things done. When everything is chaos it frees my mind to drop any notion of upkeep or adjustment outside of what I need to be tuned into.
for the hight, use a good pump, no d5 crap, a aquastream can reach hights up to 3 meters with ease. my aqustream ultra is meanwhile 10 years old and pumps the water up 2 meters for about 5 years now because my mora3 coolers are installed in a AC tunnel. first i was worried the pump would die soon so i installed a backup pump next to it. so if the pump fails, the other one jumps in.
I upgraded my system a couple months ago from my $650 budget build (I5-2400 (4c), 16gb ddr3 @1333, and a gtx 1050ti) to a new build that came in just shy of $3,000 I was going to just do like a I5-5600k or something but decided if i was going to upgrade at all I better at least get an I7. So I went for an I7-10700k (8c/16t), 32gb ddr4 @3600, and a 3070. I also went from a Sata ssd at like 500 mb/s to a m.2 at 7000mb/s (
pumps are rated in lift. 12,000gpm pumps with 700hp turbo diesel cat motors that i designed at my last job had a max of 10' of lift below the pump level.
You are forgetting that head pressure/height can be offset by gravity siphoning effect. Remember, as the pump pushes some water up, there is water returning on the other side with gravity helping it down. If there are no leaks, that helps pull water behind it back up, easing load on the pump. The pump may have problems filling the system in the first place, but once it’s primed, it shouldn’t be an issue.
Kedmiri is doing acoustics right, different types of panel = absorption at different frequencies (Best way to get good RT-60). Shapes are for diffusion as opposed to asbsorbtion. Don't like the shapes? suck it up, they serve a purpose. That room must sound pretty good.
Thank you! Actually the panels behind the TV are for pure aesthetic. Maybe they're diffusing the sound reflections a little but I did them just for the looks. :D
The only issue i see with that first setup is displacing the thermal layering somewhat by running fans up there, pushing air up into the ceiling and down the walls. But it will keep the heat away from the pc at least. Frankly, you're not gonna disturb it enough one way or the other to really make a difference. I love the view though. And thanks Jay, always love seeing these vids and looking for inspiration when i finally have the room to do a proper setup.
I built my first computer in over 2 decades, which apparently, a lot had changed from that time. I spent 15K on mine as in 15 THOUSAND DOLLARS US; TR4 3990x, PNY 3090, 256GB HyperX 3200 RAM, Zenith II Xtreme Alpha MoBo, ThermalTake 1500W Titanium PSU, 9 Noctua industrial 3000RPM fans (1 140MM Exhaust Rear IO, 4 120MM Top Exhaust and 4 120MM Front IO), ANIDEES Crystal XL case (apparently a Fractal Design knock off), 4TB Gen4 BOOT from Sabrant, 2x 8TB Gen3 storage QLC from Sabrant, and Noctua Tower CPU with two fans (bought two new ones in CHROMAX Black, pull-through config) in a very ANTI-RGB build. I initially installed Armory Crate but the case was pulling 70-80dB, got rid of that and BIOS control the fans, dropped the noise to 40-50dB. Also, ran Furry, Cinebench and all the major tests in OC mode, max out at 55C in an 80F room. WAS NOT going to RISK ANYTHING getting wet with an AIO or Custom Loop build for what was essentially my first build. Especially at that price. Was worried at first since I didn't know RAM was CPU specific nowadays, just bought the HyperX since it was low profile and without RGB, with the speeds I liked and CL values as well. Though at first in the BIOS it would only allow me to get 2600 out of it, but after some updates and bios changes, I'm getting the rated 3200, it is XMP memory but not sure what that means, so don't know if 3200 was the XMP value. WHO KNOWS. It is disgustingly over-kill for a podcast machine. I don't really game. NOT 3D anyways. Elden Ring is my current obsession and I found my 2070 Super NUC i9 Extreme (Version 1) is way more than enough power to MAX that game out.
13:45 I would 3D print faux 5.25 floppy drive faces (you could even rig up some red LEDs) and install fans behind them. You could have slits cut all around the faux faceplate for air intake, you could even rig up some dust filters. That would keep it looking period correct and running cool!!
On the sound one J, Looks like diffusers and absorbers. Need both for a good acoustical experience. Those rear panels that you don't like are sound diffusers, to break up the back waves
I can assure you. After smashing a razer death adder into pieces on my old glass desk after an overwatch match... the Death Adder was destroyed but the table didn't have a mark.
JAY, head pressure? No. No head pressure. Its a closed circuit! The syphon effect of the water coming back DOWN negates any pressure requirement to get water UP there. If he was just pumping water up there and it was leaving the equation then there would be head pressure for the pump to overcome. But its not leaving the equation, its acting like a counterweight for an elevator
Love your channel Jay. I'm a retired former US Marine. So I have a limited income and have to budget carefully. Recently my 10 year old HP PC was showing it's age and it was time to upgrade. My HP was not Windows 11 compatible, and trying to prepare for new technologies coming out, I wanted to "future proof" my build as much as I could. After doing some extensive research here is what I ended up with. I can honestly say there is a Guardian Angel watching over me because I have none of the issues (DDR5) that you have been posting on. My build is as follows: MSI Z690 MPG Carbon WiFi, i9-12900K, 64GB DDR5 Trident Z5 RGB (6000 Mhz), RTX 3080 Ti, CPU cooling- DEEPCOOL CASTLE 360EX 360MM RGB, 6X -140MM yellow LED fans, 1200W Platinum power supply, Blue uni-sleeved upgraded harness, Soundblaster AE-5 plus RGB soundcard. SSD = 2X m.2 (gen4) WD Black NVMe 1 TB drives. 1TB Samsung SSD boot drive. Windows 11 Pro, All in a Edge Dark tower. Also received a Roccat Vulcan Pro keyboard and a Razer Basilisk V3 mouse. I am still amazed at how awesome this PC performs. A dream became a reality. Semper Fi
@@panscrank No mate, lest not ye judge. A wonderful group of friends organized a Go fund me and raised money to help. Hence Guardian Angel. Such negativity is unhealthy for you.
1:50 That external radiator up near the ceiling is counter intuitive considering that ambient temperature is higher there than nearer to the ground. He's basically cooling the rad with the hottest air in the room.
So since You mentioned the head capability of the pump, and in the fluid pumping game we talk about NPSH available to the pump, and yes the downcomer basically negates the head of the cooler. Please do a video and test how high You can actually mount a cooler above the pump and how many elbows and fitting, which are all pressure drops or efficiency losses, You can put in a system before it has a actually effect.
With the first setup I think the logic is (as that appears to be a European style window) he can kip/tilt the window back and that allows direct fresh air from the outside to flow through. Especially important on hot days when, if this is in Europe somewhere, there's probably no AC. Although I imagine the radiator and fans would get fairly dirty quick from pollen and what not. That's my assumption at least
Hey Jay, your pump doesn't care about height in a closed loop. System pressure will be higher at the pump, but it doesn't restrict anymore than having the same distance and fittings going horizontally. You aren't pumping water up and out of an open loop. Your pulling from one side and pushing on the other at the same time, the pump creates differential pressure and height is irrelevant.
First and foremost, yes, I'm jealous of his setup. That PC is beautiful, those parts are awesome. Said that, independently of whether or not head pressure matters, that independent radiator remaining in the same room is absolutely pointless.
Having the radiator away from the other components can be helpful. The key is you want cool air coming into the radiator. Yes, I know, if the whole room heats up, it doesn't really matter. But many rooms are going to still have a significantly cooler ambient temp than inside the case, next to all the other heat sources. My concern was actually with the rad being so close to the ceiling, where all the hot air is going to collect. It looks like they may be getting fresh cool air to it by opening the window directly under the radiator. It would probably still be better to have the radiator under the window, where it can pull in the low (cool) air, and immediately exhaust out of the room through the window. That's just asking to get kicked, bumped, whatever, so there are really practical reasons for keeping it where it is.
Heat builds up at ceiling as it rises cold air stays low so would be best to have at floor level then ceiling as that will be the hottest place always , in special if you have lights that generate alot of heat, the ceiling wil be toasty
I think I remember you saying you had an Amiga? Maybe a C64? You could do a tower Amiga A1200 build for a retro build... I have a modded Amiga A600 with 8MB RAM (max was 1MB at the time the computer came out), and VGA output that I convert externally to HDMI.
Okay, that retro build from Chris is legitimately super fucking inspiring. I love the pic with all the modern RBG crap, it takes me back to those Bladerunner/Snow Crash, OG cyber punk days! Damn, I really wanna do a proper retro build now - lol
Hey, thanks! TRS-80 Model 4 was my first computer so I'm trying to do something interesting with the old case. Still a work in progress with a lot to do. To Jay's point, positive pressure active cooling with bottom intake and top exaust using existing vents was already added to this just after photos were taken. The retro build has been a lot of fun - you should go for it!
Possible placement outside the chassis due to clearance issues in his space. Look where the rig sits, a good portion of the rad exhaust is blocked. This does solve that issue :)
Something i learn in my plumbing prof if water is going up you should reduce the diameter of the pipe to prevent losing the pressure and maybe this willl help reduce the strain in the pump
Thanks for showing my green screen room!! It's a complete cyclorama wall with 1/8 thick flexible board framed out and floating. It's a complete stage. I didn't start with the wall, I started with the room, which is why it's green (technically a darker green) then later added that cyclorama wall.
Also all wiring is cable managed under the desk as it's a standing/sitting desk.
That is a sick setup, man!
We need an origin story for your username.
@@anonamouse5917 i think its pretty obvious, he went to taco bell one day and just started fisting them
Makes me think about the one Tarkov TH-camr's intros that incorporate him into the game space to talk about the game, would be neat to see that in other game spaces like for example Half Life Alyx for instance.
MAKE MORE VIDEOS WE NEED MORE VR VIDEOS😢
Thanks, Jay! Glad you like the direction my retro TRS-80 project is going! I actually have active cooling added with 4 NF-F12s, 2 at the bottom for intake and 1 at the top for exhaust for a positive pressure setup - those fans came in after I took the pics. Nothing is in final assembly yet - I just took a few photos while fit testing and testing temps, etc. The display was challenging. Had to find an LCD that was about a 12" 4:3, large enough to fill the space, but small enough to fit the case while keeping some of the original black bezel look since the factory bezel is shaped to a CRT.
Yours is way better executed. This was my first modding attempt, and I learned a lot.
@@jasonmollett5308 Looks like a great start in a confined space. First mod attempt for me too and I still have a lot of work to do on it - I was just lucky to have so much volume to work in with the Model 4. I didn't have an original keyboard to re-engineer back into the system either but I looked into finding one and trying. Just ended up going with a new mechanical keyboard and going to build a new platform panel around it to make it flush. We'll learn from them and make them better / make future mods even cleaner. Awesome job!
The acoustic panels @ 5:40 look like some sort of hybrid between sound absorption panels and sound diffusion panels. Sometimes you want to absorb particular frequencies or dampen reflections to minimize standing waves, but diffusion also helps keep a space feeling "alive" and not dull and dead and "0 reverb" by redirecting reflections with uneven surfaces.
This is a very well-done home recording/small studio setup.
Thanks so much for good words! On point :))
*TO ADDRESS "the difference between the soundclouds on the right and left versus the one in the center" (@ **5:19**)* - The fabric-covered "blocks" to the sides of center above listening position are conventional absorbers; i.e., they're basically fabric-covered Owens Corning 703 (or 704) used to attenuate low-to-high midrange reflection. The panel directly above (and on the side walls) is a *diffusor* or, more specifically, a Binary Amplitude Diffusor. Conventional diffusors used different depths and thicknesses of wood blocks and take up a lot more of the room due to their thickness; BADs use a specific hole pattern over a semi-absorbent material instead. Either way, diffusors "scatter" room reflections, which cuts down on splatter reflection without making the room too dead or dry. (In fact, diffusors can often make the room seem "bigger" and "less boxy").
BTW, the pitched walls (and ceiling) were probably done deliberately; (I'm guessing the room was purpose-built). When constructing a mix room, you want to avoid parallel walls (or floor and ceiling) to the greatest extent possible. This is also why the desk is away from the front wall; barring some exceptions (such as bass reflex monitors designed to be placed near a wall) you want your monitor speakers as far as practical from the floor, ceiling, and all walls.
Thank you for featuring my setup, Jay! I really appreciated your take on it. So much time, money, and effort went into finally getting the setup to where I really wanted it and it felt good to finally reach that level. Rock on, man! Also fyi, the EVGA build lives with my channel partner (and close friend) Wayne so that's why you didn't see it.
🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯 ur setup got featured bro LETS GOOOOOOO!!!!!!!
@@MrRyudragon aww yissssss! This video had great setups all around too! Would love to see Jay do remote radiator "dumb experiment" vid. Though its a legit thing so wouldn't actually be dumb, but either way I'd watch.
Hey, amazing setup!
@@howtheturntables1600 Thank you!
Before an after is just amazing. Congrats man
2:49 Column height is only a factor when you are trying to raise water into a tank (open ended tube). In a loop, as long as it's already filled you're only recirculating. Height would play no role here, however you are adding inertia and the constant friction of the liquid inside tubes. I'm more worried about increased overall pressure within his system, and the possibility of catastrophic leaks.
It's only about 1 mt high. So about 0.1bar/1.5psi
The negative head of the return pipe will cancel out the head of the pressure pipe. So like a counterweight in a pully system. So there will be no head loss other than that of the radiator as long as the pressure drop is not low enough to cause cavitation
Almost. It will cause problems for priming and airbubble clearance. And at this height there is no problem but at 30-40 ft you need to make sure you don't boil the water due to low pressure. To make it better, I would duct cold air from the floor. I've always wanted to see if I could make a fanless system with a chimney with a similar setup. And with this much height change, he could go thermosyphen with phase change.
Steamfitter here. This is correct. The total static head is equal in both risers. What goes up, must come down. The total friction losses in the system probably wouldn't be too great because the flow rate isn't that fast. The pump only needs to create enough fluid head to overcome the resistance to flow. And water generates 1 PSI of pressure for every 2.31 feet of height. This is how domestic water towers in towns and cities work. A pump fills the tower as needed, and gravity provides the water pressure to all the homes and businesses that use it.
DTX, I believe you nailed it. The longer tubes would reduce flow somewhat. There is more pressure on the components at the case level than the equipment is likely designed for. It does seem to be working however. I'd love to do something like that to blow warm air on my feet during winter gaming.
Jay, there will be pressure loss due to the length of tube but that water high above is also being pulled back down by gravity. You should do an experiment with a long coolant loop fully filled with fluid and run it horizontally and then run it vertically and measure the "head loss" in each setup. I think you'll be surprised at the results.
I thought the same thing, but I think what Jay was mentioning is the static pressure at the pump outlet. While having a pump at the bottom of a loop is the most efficient location, it also means the pump is constantly exposed to higher pressures, potentially increasing the wear and tear on the pump (but effectively, it would only be marginally).
@GamerBoyPS360 Basically, the effort the pump needs to push the water up the pipe (against gravity) is cancelled out by the water falling back down the other pipe (with gravity). So once the loop is full, the pump won't have any issues.
@@rstidman these were puke worthy, any pc that looks like it takes more than 20 seconds to move is objectively dogshit
@@MrSwiftResponse yup.. That is why even commercially pumps is put at the highest point they can..
Wouldn't the top of the loop have a lower absolute pressure as a result? Its that tallest height of a straw problem, except offset slightly by a little pump. A Funny question of how high you could raise it before you end up boiling water inside the radiator when the system is under load.
Hi Jay... I just want to say thank you. Two years ago. I found your channel and it reignited the pc enthusiast lost to the humdrum day to day work that must be endured. Thanks to your channel I found my knowledge in pc building up to speed and have now built three pc's in my home. One for Myself, my wife ( who loved learning how to build a pc), and my son ( yes he helped build his as well.) Thank you so much for your awesome content. Im currently looking into building my own pc case to get the design i desire with water cooling incorporated. Thank you again.
I love that studio build. Jay, the panels you weren't sure about are used to break up the sound energy as well as absorbing the energy. Gives the room a little character so it doesn't sound "dead" while also stopping echos.
2:35 most of the problematic load for such a height is on the lower parts of the piping. For the pump itself is not much of a problem, since it's a closed circuit, the pressure from water going down would help compensate for the pressure required to pump the water up. The pumping loss (thus pump pressure difference) would be in the friction of the circulating liquid itself.
The TRS-80 was my first computer! So awesome to see it like this!
12:54 The RadioShack TRS-80 Model 4, with a whopping 4MB of RAM and two 5.25" floppy drives (where the holes are in the front of this wonderful mod. The one that started my IT life. "Yes, I'm old" as well. It was featured in the first Tron Movie (1983) as the computer used to program Tron himself. Lots of great memories.
Model 4 was my first computer so I had to do something interesting with this rough old case I was able to get. Still a work in progress with much left to do, but I'm trying to not modify the case itself - only clean/repair and fab parts to fit modern internals! Interior assembly/QC markings in sharpie show a date of June 1983. To Jay's point, positive pressure active cooling with bottom intake and top exaust using existing vents was already added to this just after photos were taken.
i just finished my first build and its working great.
7000d full tower, asus z690 hero, 12900k, 3090fe, 64gb 5200 ddr5, 2 - 2tb 980 nvme, and 2 LG 27GP950s.
Seeing builds like these really inspired me and I'm absolutely loving the performance while gaming.
The sound panels with holes scatter sound, sometimes a tuned diaphragm is also used in scatter panels , just depends how far down the rabbit hole the acoustic tuning went….
I'm going back through all Jayz video's for the last 2 years ,, finding EVERY product he HATED so I can build something VERY special for him :)
The panels that look like cork board is a partial-reflective absorber. Reflects high frequencies while absorbing bass, put simply. The "shapes" are scattering diffusion. The shape is required for the physics to work. And the pitched roof isn't pitched; that front top corner is filled for bass trapping, same as the vertical corners.
Very nice home studio room.
The sound panels with the holes in them are specifically cut to direct certain frequencies where they need to go. I've seen a few high end venues with the same thing all along the walls. Sounds amazing!
Jay I just wanted to say thanks for these kind of videos showing off all these awesome setups. I've been running a FX 8320 and evga 970 that's served me well for about 8 years now and I finally got my hands on a evga 3070ti at micro center while on vacation and I've been wanting to build a new pc for years now and hopefully someday soon I'll get to show off what I built on here someday
Absolutely spot-on Jay regarding some people (like myself) being severly negatively affected by clutter, mess or an unorganised workspace or similar areas. I just can't focus on a task at hand and get really stressed, and feel really hampered by an unorganised/messy/untidy environment.
However, my 19-year old daughter and I are very similar in many aspects of our personalities, but when it comes to working hard and producing well, we're polar opposites - she functions best and is completely unfazed by her workspace being in a complete mess - that is "comfortable" for her and she doesn't find it unorganised etc.
Best!
/M
I lost my father recently and your videos have brought some light to my days, thank you for being you jay
As for the external radiator, I remember maybe 15 or so years ago on a long gone Sim Racing forum somebody from one of the Scandinavian countries talking about how their PC is water cooled with the radiator down in the exposed crawlspace under their house. Kept the heat out of the house in the summer but still stayed cool because it doesn't really get too hot in the summer there.
Dres2Cents about radiators mounted high above the pump: the pump head pressure has not much to do with the height difference in your loop once it is filled. If you fill the loop from the highest point, you should be fine in any case. Only if you fill you loop with e.g. the pump/res at the bottom the pump has to overcome the highest point in the loop. Once 'the water goes down', this pressure evens out and the pump only has to work against all obstructions in the loop such as radiators and cooling blocks.
The absolute best thing anyone can do to keep their room, shop or any type of space clean and looking fantastic is to allocate 2 hours or so every Friday afternoon before you end the day and use that time to clean, organize and plan how your place wants to look.
When I got my autoshop I made it a rule that two hours before closing we all clean the place from top to bottom no matter if it needed it or not! I might have OCD or something about stuff like that, hell I even clean and polish my tools, but It's such a satisfying feeling when you see everything is in its place, clean and in working order. It's the little things that make a difference and no matter if it's your house or a place of business, keeping things neat and tidy makes things so much easier and above all else, safer.
I hate running around looking for stuff when there's a much easier way, and it doesn't take a lot of energy to put your tools back after you use them, no matter if you clean them or not that day. The funny thing is, my two employees are total scatterbrains when it comes to keeping things where it should be, and if any of us find tools where they don't belong, the "offender" have to put a donation into the blue monster as we call it (a cookie jar) and at the end of each month we usually use that money for something. Last month we donated it to the Red Cross! 😛
For a full closed loop, the elevation doesn't matter. The distance up is the same as the distance down. Once the system is full, the pump can hardly tell it's pumping up hill, since the downhill side is creating negative pressure equal to the pressure caused by working against gravity. Fittings, radiators and blocks are the biggest losses in a closed loop. Just wanted to chime in.
2:20 Top of a room is warmer than the bottom, have it at windows base or just below would allow more cold air pass over it i would assume?
23:00 100%, A clean and organized space can make a huge difference to ones mental health
For sure!
Pump head pressure is not an issue in the first system as like you said the liquid moving down puts the same pressure on the system as the water going up. The main pressure would be from trying to move the volume of fluid in the system and the amount of friction from fittings and corners.
If the level of the water when turned off is an inch below the top of the system the pump is working to push the water over that inch no matter whether it's inside the case or 12 feet above it.
I believe the "head height" would be the difference between the top of the loop and the water level on the outlet pipe at the time water starts to flow over the top.
Good show today guys. Thank you submitters I enjoyed the builds
In the sound guys setup, the Panels with holes and the triangular back board are for diffusion. Trying to defuse sound waves by scattering the reflections rather than pure absurbtion.
This still allows sound reflections to occur for a pleasant/balance reverb sound while trying to avoid phasing or peaks & Nulls in the frequencies.
2:53 I disagree about the head pressure. It's a loop, so while there is a common mode pressure between the radiator and the pump with the inlet and outlet lines, the pump only needs to produce a differential pressure across those lines for cooling. The head pressure sums to zero in a closed loop after you go up one line, then back down the other. The CM head pressure is maintained simply by the loop being sealed and the water not being able to push out of the system. Of course if you have a net displacement of water upward, in that case you would be correct, with one example being a well pump. Net displacement is zero here.
That said, the pressure differential with respect to outside is greater, so there would be a greater pressure differential on all lower seals measured against the atmosphere.
And I wrote that and someone already said it all basically. Posting anyway!
Spot on, I'm in the industrial pumping industry and this system is the same as a closed heating or cooling loop in buildings. Once the system is filled and sealed the only pressure the pumps see's is the friction of the fluid moving throughout the loop. The straw is only accurate for an open ended system.
@@benperkins7434 h * g * q = p. which means, the greater the hight the greater the pressure in fluids. its one of pascals many discovery's as a physicist. so jay is 100% correct in his judgment of the pressure in the loop, tho he do not explain it very well.
@@alexhjertsson Still, that applies to an open loop. Closed yes, its under pressure, but because you have water going down as well as up it cancels out
@@alexhjertsson Nope,.. it’s a closed loop. It’s all about friction… the loop goes up and down which equals each other out gravity wise.
What about te friction though from the longer tubing?
man that second music setup looks sick
Regarding the music guy, the desk is not against the wall because you need to be in the ideal listening position of the room, which often means you have to move everything out a bit. You can also move absorbers an inch or so off the wall which will help them absorb longer wavelengths (i.e. lower frequencies) 🙂
You're right! That was the main case. But also now it's easy to clean and manage the stuff behind the desk, I see only advantages ;) Thank you!
Note on the first one, because it's a closed loop the pump isn't working any harder to push water up there because gravity is also equally helping pull it back down much like a sciphon works. If anything it's only harder because of the tube length.
2:24
I think the last step that could be done to the radiator is cutting a hole in a wall the size of the radiator, put some sort of rails, put radiator on them and slide it outside, so the hot air will completely leave the house. When it's time for the cleaning, just roll the radiator back to the house disassemble it.
The o11 XL is just a lovely case. Looks good and is super easy to work with. Just built my system with one last month and couldn't be more pleased.
Some really inspirational spaces here. Nice work to everyone featured. I really like these videos. Makes me want to work on my space, even if it's just cleaning it up!
8:30 haha, I did the electrical tape trick around the USB2, HD audio and front panel headers of my case as they used a fairly big amount of coloured cables there. It's hidden behind a GPU sag bracket, but at least it doesn't attract attention :) (My PSU has basic plain black cables)
I had an external rad for awhile with a fairly small PC in a cubby with a cabinet fan pulling hot air out of the cubby, and the tubes taking the majority of the heat through a wall to the external rad. I used a 5v relay that turned on the external fans when the PC power was on using an old USB cable, and the option in the bios that only turns on the USB when power is on. Thus the radiator and pumps that were in it only ran when the PC was turned on. It was kind of perfect, it cooled better than radiators inside the case that were getting hot air from the PC (for exhaust) and putting more hot air in the case (for intake), and it was quiet despite running the fans pretty close to full bore, because they were in a different room behind an insulated wall.
Jay no, what he needs is a mini monitor for displaying stats for each hole, like a task manager/discord screen up top and system temps/fan control at the bottom. Ventilation can be done via other spaces on the case since he has the whole back. @13:55
Music production setup: The Panels in the front (foam) only dampen high frequencies, the acoustic panels with the fabric are broadband absorbers and the panels with the woodc are kind of a hybrid between braodband absorber and sound diffuser. If you want good sound you will generally want to go for a mix of broadband absorbers and bass traps (here, this seems to be kind of emulated by the 2 panels in the corner that have air behind them) - if you just want to "deaden" the room, so you have no or very little reverb you can use foam only, but that will also take away a lot of the "brialliance" of the sound and still keep the booming of the low end. Chers
The front white panels behind the TV are there just for the looks. Maybe they diffusing the reflections a little but I just did them for aesthetic. You're on point with the hybrid ones! :D
@@Kedmiri ah ok! I thought they were also foam absorbers. Anyway: sick setup, dude.
@@saberreiter8569 Thanks a lot!!
Cork with holes are helmholtz resonators which are able to cut very specific frequencies vs. broad based absorption of panels. Pyramids scatter vs absorb. Cool set-up.
Jay, in Kedmiri's room, the wall isn't pitched, he just has another bass trap on the corner of the wall and the ceiling
Thanks jay! I love some of the wallpapers, and usually have to hunt down the tweets myself. Glad you include them. Nice touch!
The music setup is HEAVENLY!!!!! I also really like the hexagon/Lego room. Obviously another very detail oriented person to make such a clean and professional looking FIRST setup!!!!
You COULD do a desk build......you have beastly cars and drive on racetracks.....surely you know about lexan race car windows.....or maybe a sheet of bullet proof glass?!? 😉😉😉
for anyone wondering, thats an Alesis V61 keyboard at 6:53 . really good for the price, would reccomend
That's right! :) Don't need anything more at the moment.
@@Kedmiri was that your setup? If so very very nice💪
@@FutureKLX300SMowner yeah man! I'm sitting here right now. Thank you! 🥰
@@Kedmiri hell yeah, big up’s mate🔥
The last setup with the DFI Lanparty board on the wall though!
aw yissss
I have to mention something about the first setup you have have shown. He has a germen nickname and is prpably from germany. Here in Germany windows open mostly from the top. Thats most likely the reason why he placed his external radiator right above it. In this case there would be acually a significant cooling affect when opened. At least in autumn, winter and spring.
Hi there, that is correct!
Regards, Michael
In an open cold water tank in the roof of your house, yeh you need to push all the water up to the tank and water head pressure tells you how far you can do that. In a sealed radiator loop the water that drops down after the rad offsets the weight of the water being pushed up to it, e.g. elevator couter balance reduces motor needs to just 'getting it moving' rather than overcoming gravity, or when you syphon gas you don't have to push the water UP once there's water the other side of the hill pulling the liquid though (and an airtight seal to mean the only thing that can fill the space vacated by the falling fluid is the source liquid you want to rise). As long as the sides of the loop are the same hight (unavoidable if it's a loop, right?) the liquid is already in balance and the only load a pump faces when circulating is fighting the resistance of the fluid against the walls/fluid viscosity/smaller and faster flow appetures like in the heat exchanger/water block/radiator etc.
Consider the sides of a wheel on a good bearing, the work to lift side of the wheel is offset by the energy released from lowering the other, the force required is just to overcome inertia and 'start it moving'. I think if you had an open res at the top of the loop and the system was no longer sealed (like your house's water headder tanks/cistern things) that the same situation would apply though, as the liquid falling down to the PC wound't then be able to get a 'good suck' on the water needing to be raised (air can get into the open res if there's negative pressure on the liquid) and the work of raising the liqud then falls soully on the pump/water utility head pressure. I.e. the water is being 'pushed' to the top of the loop, there is no 'pull' from the falling water because the space can be filled with air rather than only the source water.
The length of the piping will add to resitance somewhat and there's more of a consideration for bleeding the loop with the high spot up there (more liable to get airlocked too?). At some point the pressue would be so low as to cause the water to boil, but far before then the liquid would further off gas (probably not the correct word) and any disolved gases be encouraged to bubble off, so presume having a very tall loop would increase the propensity for that to happen at the top. If it got too tall flexible pipe would start to pinch too, so yeh there's a limit to how far you can go, but the pressure caused by the weight of liquid in 1.5m or so of tubing is proably not the most problematic thing in this setup :D
wow that's a lot of rambley text:
TL;DR because top of loop looks to be sleaed in the 'ceiling rad' build, there's no additional head pressure required from the pump to get the liquid up there, only a bit more resistance due to extra piping
Been thinking of doing a Star Wars themed dual loop system for my first time water cool build. Now I have the inspiration of how to pull it off.
Elevators have counterweights. The pump in the first will be fine as long as the system is a closed loop without air in it. Theoretically (not physically obviously) you could put the cooler all the way up into space with the same pump. If you have the same amount of water pulling down as you want to push up it's just a balanced seesaw, very little force is needed to tip it over and it wouldn't matter how much weight was on each side as long as it's equal.
@ 3:35 That reminds me of my old Corsair Hydrocool 200 ex I has back in 2004-2005 on my pentium 4. I made a shelf for it to hang out the window in the winter time. gave me good temps!
for a while back in 2005 my radiator consisted of two 1m lengths of aluminium extrusion mounted outside my bedroom on the windowsill, worked really good in winter because Scotland, but not great when the sun was on them in summer. I sometimes used to get negative temps on start-up :)
Damn that glow up at the end, I have a tiny space from the town home where I have to basically have my desk & rig at the corner of our living room at my town home (house prices in my state are a complete mess right now) and I can't hang or change much and seeing awesome setups that utilize small spaces like that are always awesome. One day I'll get to actually fix up a space dedicated just to my build, for now I gotta make due haha
I have a Husky Work Table as a Stand Up Gaming Desk. The Tower is attached under the desk surface with a bracket. (just bragging but the desk has 35+ minutes of battery backup)
I also have a Logitech Sub-Bass monster that is Bottom Firing. The bass is flipped upside down and bungee corded to the underside of the desk so the bass travels through the entire surface. Most of the wiring is pinned to the underside of the desk and I will probably conceal the wire in conduit. The desk is getting heavy and I will soon add some air struts for hatchbacks so I can essentially 'remove' around 50kg of perceived weight from the desk.
The first setup would be better with the external rad near the floor, cold air sinks, so it would theoretically get a cooler supply through the fans / rad
Hi there, i built the Thing. Put it up there nbecause most of the time my window is tilted so the rad gets fresh cool Air.
Regards, Michael
I just ended modding my desk into a bigger top and more shelves for more space, finally after 2 years wanting to do, so i spent nearly 2 days doing all the cable management on the back. Its so many cables but i think ive done what i wanted which was putting them managed individually for the reason you mentioned in the video xD
I've been building a desk PC past 3 months cant wait to post it 😊
The hydrostatic pressure for a 1 meter / 3.28 foot column of water - regardless of the diameter of the column, is 1.42 psi. So, if that rad mounted at the roof in the first PC build is 3.28 feet - or roughly 40 inches - above the level of the pump, then it only needs to generate an extra 1.42 psi above what it would have to generate if it was mounted at the same level as the reservoir / cooling block.
I don't think that's going to cause a pump failure or a flow deficiency.
Here's a tip for people trying to manage desktops with no backing to hide the cables behind... get some zip tie mounts that can be screwed into the to bottom of the desktop. Screw the power strip to the bottom and wall warts can be mounted with 3M Command strips.... and, of course, a shit ton of zip ties. Maybe not the best solution if you're always changing stuff out, but it's the cleanest way I've found to deal with tops with no space to manage cables.
Lol I dig the Illenium stealth plug in that nice tower pic.
i love watching these, i’m new to the pcmr so it inspires me how to change mine
beware the telegram scammers. do not fall for it
Dude that second one,, INSANE. OCD level is right. wish i could achieve that level. Thats true dedication
First System: I would put the radiator not where the warm air ends up, but where the cool air lays. So put it to the ground. The warm air will raise to the ceiling and the radiator will push new cold air through. My five cents :D
Jay - on the table build thing. There is glass solid enough that it will handle just about anything, so if you get like glass used for a jewelers display case you will be fine.
Since I am from Germany, I was very entertained when Jay tried to read out the username of the first Guy. In Englisch the Username would have meant someting like "rudely honest". An American trying to read german words, my day is safed. Thank zu for all the inspiration all the time.
I'm definitely a clutter and chaos person. I need my space to look like it just got hit by and EF4. I've tried clean and neat and it just sets off my obsessive tendencies. I end up spending the majority of my focus obsessively on what ever temporary new elements I'm introducing into the space and how it disrupts the uniformity instead of being in the creative or logistical headspace I need to be in to get things done. When everything is chaos it frees my mind to drop any notion of upkeep or adjustment outside of what I need to be tuned into.
for the hight, use a good pump, no d5 crap, a aquastream can reach hights up to 3 meters with ease. my aqustream ultra is meanwhile 10 years old and pumps the water up 2 meters for about 5 years now because my mora3 coolers are installed in a AC tunnel. first i was worried the pump would die soon so i installed a backup pump next to it. so if the pump fails, the other one jumps in.
With the Tandy build, Jay clearly cannot read the twitter post.
I upgraded my system a couple months ago from my $650 budget build (I5-2400 (4c), 16gb ddr3 @1333, and a gtx 1050ti) to a new build that came in just shy of $3,000
I was going to just do like a I5-5600k or something but decided if i was going to upgrade at all I better at least get an I7. So I went for an I7-10700k (8c/16t), 32gb ddr4 @3600, and a 3070. I also went from a Sata ssd at like 500 mb/s to a m.2 at 7000mb/s (
Jay please do a retro build like that Tandy one! Can do 3D printed shell based on one of the old school machine!
pumps are rated in lift. 12,000gpm pumps with 700hp turbo diesel cat motors that i designed at my last job had a max of 10' of lift below the pump level.
You are forgetting that head pressure/height can be offset by gravity siphoning effect. Remember, as the pump pushes some water up, there is water returning on the other side with gravity helping it down. If there are no leaks, that helps pull water behind it back up, easing load on the pump. The pump may have problems filling the system in the first place, but once it’s primed, it shouldn’t be an issue.
LOL, I still have a Tandy 100ex laying around here somewhere, with a paper floppy drive!
11:23 I like how you were reading the offset of the keys like a sheet of music.
Kedmiri is doing acoustics right, different types of panel = absorption at different frequencies (Best way to get good RT-60). Shapes are for diffusion as opposed to asbsorbtion. Don't like the shapes? suck it up, they serve a purpose. That room must sound pretty good.
Thank you! Actually the panels behind the TV are for pure aesthetic. Maybe they're diffusing the sound reflections a little but I did them just for the looks. :D
@@Kedmiri Haha! Fair play to you. But Jay doesn't like them so better change them quick :D
The triangular, rigid panel is meant to diffuse sound rather than absorb it. It is actually perfectly placed in this setup.
The only issue i see with that first setup is displacing the thermal layering somewhat by running fans up there, pushing air up into the ceiling and down the walls. But it will keep the heat away from the pc at least. Frankly, you're not gonna disturb it enough one way or the other to really make a difference. I love the view though.
And thanks Jay, always love seeing these vids and looking for inspiration when i finally have the room to do a proper setup.
I built my first computer in over 2 decades, which apparently, a lot had changed from that time. I spent 15K on mine as in 15 THOUSAND DOLLARS US; TR4 3990x, PNY 3090, 256GB HyperX 3200 RAM, Zenith II Xtreme Alpha MoBo, ThermalTake 1500W Titanium PSU, 9 Noctua industrial 3000RPM fans (1 140MM Exhaust Rear IO, 4 120MM Top Exhaust and 4 120MM Front IO), ANIDEES Crystal XL case (apparently a Fractal Design knock off), 4TB Gen4 BOOT from Sabrant, 2x 8TB Gen3 storage QLC from Sabrant, and Noctua Tower CPU with two fans (bought two new ones in CHROMAX Black, pull-through config) in a very ANTI-RGB build. I initially installed Armory Crate but the case was pulling 70-80dB, got rid of that and BIOS control the fans, dropped the noise to 40-50dB. Also, ran Furry, Cinebench and all the major tests in OC mode, max out at 55C in an 80F room. WAS NOT going to RISK ANYTHING getting wet with an AIO or Custom Loop build for what was essentially my first build. Especially at that price. Was worried at first since I didn't know RAM was CPU specific nowadays, just bought the HyperX since it was low profile and without RGB, with the speeds I liked and CL values as well. Though at first in the BIOS it would only allow me to get 2600 out of it, but after some updates and bios changes, I'm getting the rated 3200, it is XMP memory but not sure what that means, so don't know if 3200 was the XMP value. WHO KNOWS. It is disgustingly over-kill for a podcast machine. I don't really game. NOT 3D anyways. Elden Ring is my current obsession and I found my 2070 Super NUC i9 Extreme (Version 1) is way more than enough power to MAX that game out.
Hey thanks for showing these kinda things off. Its nice to see these in one place to give me ideas for my new spaces! Nice builds!
13:45
I would 3D print faux 5.25 floppy drive faces (you could even rig up some red LEDs) and install fans behind them.
You could have slits cut all around the faux faceplate for air intake, you could even rig up some dust filters.
That would keep it looking period correct and running cool!!
On the sound one J, Looks like diffusers and absorbers. Need both for a good acoustical experience. Those rear panels that you don't like are sound diffusers, to break up the back waves
This has given me a few ideas for my new setup thank you :)
A kinder, gentler Jay. Love it ☮️🙂
I can assure you. After smashing a razer death adder into pieces on my old glass desk after an overwatch match... the Death Adder was destroyed but the table didn't have a mark.
JAY, head pressure? No. No head pressure. Its a closed circuit! The syphon effect of the water coming back DOWN negates any pressure requirement to get water UP there.
If he was just pumping water up there and it was leaving the equation then there would be head pressure for the pump to overcome. But its not leaving the equation, its acting like a counterweight for an elevator
As a audiophile that studio setup was gorgeous!
Love your channel Jay. I'm a retired former US Marine. So I have a limited income and have to budget carefully. Recently my 10 year old HP PC was showing it's age and it was time to upgrade. My HP was not Windows 11 compatible, and trying to prepare for new technologies coming out, I wanted to "future proof" my build as much as I could. After doing some extensive research here is what I ended up with. I can honestly say there is a Guardian Angel watching over me because I have none of the issues (DDR5) that you have been posting on. My build is as follows: MSI Z690 MPG Carbon WiFi, i9-12900K, 64GB DDR5 Trident Z5 RGB (6000 Mhz), RTX 3080 Ti, CPU cooling- DEEPCOOL CASTLE 360EX 360MM RGB, 6X -140MM yellow LED fans, 1200W Platinum power supply, Blue uni-sleeved upgraded harness, Soundblaster AE-5 plus RGB soundcard. SSD = 2X m.2 (gen4) WD Black NVMe 1 TB drives. 1TB Samsung SSD boot drive. Windows 11 Pro, All in a Edge Dark tower. Also received a Roccat Vulcan Pro keyboard and a Razer Basilisk V3 mouse. I am still amazed at how awesome this PC performs. A dream became a reality. Semper Fi
@@panscrank No mate, lest not ye judge. A wonderful group of friends organized a Go fund me and raised money to help. Hence Guardian Angel. Such negativity is unhealthy for you.
@@panscrank It is posted kid, on Jayz twitter. You're an immature troll, grow up.
1:50 That external radiator up near the ceiling is counter intuitive considering that ambient temperature is higher there than nearer to the ground. He's basically cooling the rad with the hottest air in the room.
Hi there, i built that System. I put it up there because it can get fresh Air from the mostly tilted Window.
Regards, Michael
@@Michael-vf4rg Are you talking about when you open your window and you let fresh/cooler outside air into the room?
So since You mentioned the head capability of the pump, and in the fluid pumping game we talk about NPSH available to the pump, and yes the downcomer basically negates the head of the cooler. Please do a video and test how high You can actually mount a cooler above the pump and how many elbows and fitting, which are all pressure drops or efficiency losses, You can put in a system before it has a actually effect.
TRS80 model III was the first computer I touched. It had 8" floppy drives and a monochrome green CRT screen. I love the retro installs!
First one was thinking out of the box. I would do it different, like low in the room for cooler air to pass through the radiator, but I like the idea.
Hi there, i built that System. I put it up there because it can get fresh Air from the mostly tilted Window.
Regards, Michael
With the first setup I think the logic is (as that appears to be a European style window) he can kip/tilt the window back and that allows direct fresh air from the outside to flow through. Especially important on hot days when, if this is in Europe somewhere, there's probably no AC. Although I imagine the radiator and fans would get fairly dirty quick from pollen and what not. That's my assumption at least
I like these videos. They provide a nice break from the more analytical videos
Hey Jay, your pump doesn't care about height in a closed loop. System pressure will be higher at the pump, but it doesn't restrict anymore than having the same distance and fittings going horizontally.
You aren't pumping water up and out of an open loop. Your pulling from one side and pushing on the other at the same time, the pump creates differential pressure and height is irrelevant.
First and foremost, yes, I'm jealous of his setup. That PC is beautiful, those parts are awesome.
Said that, independently of whether or not head pressure matters, that independent radiator remaining in the same room is absolutely pointless.
Having the radiator away from the other components can be helpful. The key is you want cool air coming into the radiator. Yes, I know, if the whole room heats up, it doesn't really matter. But many rooms are going to still have a significantly cooler ambient temp than inside the case, next to all the other heat sources.
My concern was actually with the rad being so close to the ceiling, where all the hot air is going to collect. It looks like they may be getting fresh cool air to it by opening the window directly under the radiator. It would probably still be better to have the radiator under the window, where it can pull in the low (cool) air, and immediately exhaust out of the room through the window. That's just asking to get kicked, bumped, whatever, so there are really practical reasons for keeping it where it is.
@@1da1a172 This was also my thinking.
it looks interesting if nothing else.
@Gareth Tucker We do get that one warm day called 'summer', though. But then the midges attack and you have to close the windows again!
Heat builds up at ceiling as it rises cold air stays low so would be best to have at floor level then ceiling as that will be the hottest place always , in special if you have lights that generate alot of heat, the ceiling wil be toasty
I think I remember you saying you had an Amiga? Maybe a C64? You could do a tower Amiga A1200 build for a retro build... I have a modded Amiga A600 with 8MB RAM (max was 1MB at the time the computer came out), and VGA output that I convert externally to HDMI.
Okay, that retro build from Chris is legitimately super fucking inspiring. I love the pic with all the modern RBG crap, it takes me back to those Bladerunner/Snow Crash, OG cyber punk days! Damn, I really wanna do a proper retro build now - lol
Hey, thanks! TRS-80 Model 4 was my first computer so I'm trying to do something interesting with the old case. Still a work in progress with a lot to do. To Jay's point, positive pressure active cooling with bottom intake and top exaust using existing vents was already added to this just after photos were taken. The retro build has been a lot of fun - you should go for it!
Possible placement outside the chassis due to clearance issues in his space. Look where the rig sits, a good portion of the rad exhaust is blocked. This does solve that issue :)
@20:30 Heavy amethyst geode vibes and I'm here for it. Much better than actual rocks glued to the case *cough* Luke at LTT *cough*
Something i learn in my plumbing prof if water is going up you should reduce the diameter of the pipe to prevent losing the pressure and maybe this willl help reduce the strain in the pump
Those panels are sound diffusers not so much to hide cables but to treat the acoustics of the room