Take the crank to someone if you arent sure they could definitely see if its out of spec. I just rebuilt my 2004 dr 200.. but as i was tearing it down i did notice it was a little hard to crank it over when i installed a new piston and cylinder.. but not the bottom end. And for the oil it could be bad valve seals. I didnt even mess with the head on mine i just bought a whole new one.. all the parts i used all came from ali express.. i bought a new connecting rod, pin and bearing. Cylinder, piston, rings and head from a chinese seller called ahl. And so far its been running for over a year and hasnt even smoked once. I also didnt use any of the gaskets that they had with it i used oem gaskets. I also used a bottle of lucas thickener and coated everything in it before i assembled it. And loaded the crank full of the engine oil it called for so it woudnt be dry when it ran. the valve cover i used a tube of Honda bond and i also drive it very hard..
After a lot of swearing and searching around I realized what happened.... when I took the valve cover off I had moved the c ring that secures the cam and somehow it has fallen in and become wedged between the crank and the case which is why everything looks scorched as if heated up. Now I'm trying to figure out a way to get it out without removing the engine and splitting the case but not so sure I can. The other thing I thought about doing was just connecting my drill with a socket to the flywheel and giving her s*** until it either pops out or wears down but then I could end up with a little metal in the engine however if I flush it a few times with some oil I should be able to get that out by removing the screen at the bottom. Do you have any advice on how I can get this out of there? It is a tight fit which you can't really get any tools in but I can just see the clip spinning around with the crank
@@My_Little_Hobby do you have discord? Or something i have pictures of the inside.. im not sure if doing that would be a good idea as the lower part of the engine where the screen is might not help on getting that piece out. I know it seems like alot of work and it is.. but you would be better of taking the engine out.. bearings are cheap and if they are old.. it would be a good idea to throw new ones in it. I also have the rebuild manual if that would help
This will be a fun project. Gonna split the bottom open so I can get the crank out. fish for that c ring, lol. Maybe replacing the bottom end would easier. Will have to find a puller to split the case , a bit nervous but im sure it will be fine. Love that u created these videos, saves me a tone of time figuring things out. Would u know if this shares the same bottom end with an 85-87' or later years? Thanks Mike!
Yes I believe it does but the c ring hasn't given me any problems and I actually forgot all about it. Essentially it welded itself to the crank or flywheel or whatever it is and and it seems to have been fine since but I suppose if you are willing to put the time into pulling it apart it probably would be better to take it out though you could just use it this Summer and do that over winter. I talked to a guy at a motorcycle repair shop in Stoney Creek but said it would probably just fall and sit in the bottom end so it is possible it has done that could still just be welded but can't really say for sure.
@@My_Little_Hobby Thats good to know, I probably will throw one of those heavy duty magnets on the bottom in that case. See if i can flush out any bits.. :) Did u say it idle high because of the air fuel mixture... can't remember which video u said that in.
@@lucidbounce yeah probably from the air fuel mixture as I don't really know how to set a carb that well, but also could be the float not sitting perfectly as well.
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
hey man this is going to help me so much thank you im 15 and this is my first top end rebuild so this really is helpful
Spent 10 minutes looking around the garage for my ratchet, and its dangling right here!! that had me doubled up!!😂😂😂😂😂
The copper washer seal the oil passage to the head. The reason for the capped nut.
Take the crank to someone if you arent sure they could definitely see if its out of spec. I just rebuilt my 2004 dr 200.. but as i was tearing it down i did notice it was a little hard to crank it over when i installed a new piston and cylinder.. but not the bottom end. And for the oil it could be bad valve seals. I didnt even mess with the head on mine i just bought a whole new one.. all the parts i used all came from ali express.. i bought a new connecting rod, pin and bearing. Cylinder, piston, rings and head from a chinese seller called ahl. And so far its been running for over a year and hasnt even smoked once. I also didnt use any of the gaskets that they had with it i used oem gaskets. I also used a bottle of lucas thickener and coated everything in it before i assembled it. And loaded the crank full of the engine oil it called for so it woudnt be dry when it ran. the valve cover i used a tube of Honda bond and i also drive it very hard..
After a lot of swearing and searching around I realized what happened.... when I took the valve cover off I had moved the c ring that secures the cam and somehow it has fallen in and become wedged between the crank and the case which is why everything looks scorched as if heated up. Now I'm trying to figure out a way to get it out without removing the engine and splitting the case but not so sure I can. The other thing I thought about doing was just connecting my drill with a socket to the flywheel and giving her s*** until it either pops out or wears down but then I could end up with a little metal in the engine however if I flush it a few times with some oil I should be able to get that out by removing the screen at the bottom. Do you have any advice on how I can get this out of there? It is a tight fit which you can't really get any tools in but I can just see the clip spinning around with the crank
@@My_Little_Hobby do you have discord? Or something i have pictures of the inside.. im not sure if doing that would be a good idea as the lower part of the engine where the screen is might not help on getting that piece out. I know it seems like alot of work and it is.. but you would be better of taking the engine out.. bearings are cheap and if they are old.. it would be a good idea to throw new ones in it. I also have the rebuild manual if that would help
This will be a fun project. Gonna split the bottom open so I can get the crank out. fish for that c ring, lol. Maybe replacing the bottom end would easier. Will have to find a puller to split the case , a bit nervous but im sure it will be fine. Love that u created these videos, saves me a tone of time figuring things out. Would u know if this shares the same bottom end with an 85-87' or later years?
Thanks Mike!
Yes I believe it does but the c ring hasn't given me any problems and I actually forgot all about it. Essentially it welded itself to the crank or flywheel or whatever it is and and it seems to have been fine since but I suppose if you are willing to put the time into pulling it apart it probably would be better to take it out though you could just use it this Summer and do that over winter. I talked to a guy at a motorcycle repair shop in Stoney Creek but said it would probably just fall and sit in the bottom end so it is possible it has done that could still just be welded but can't really say for sure.
@@My_Little_Hobby Thats good to know, I probably will throw one of those heavy duty magnets on the bottom in that case. See if i can flush out any bits.. :) Did u say it idle high because of the air fuel mixture... can't remember which video u said that in.
@@lucidbounce yeah probably from the air fuel mixture as I don't really know how to set a carb that well, but also could be the float not sitting perfectly as well.
@@My_Little_Hobby I see thanks! I'm gonna have a look at it. Easiest place to start, maybe put in a new Mikuni Thxs
Timing chain didn't move
Can't wait till u do some wheelies
You should definitely split the case and replace the bearings in the case itself