If you end up tackling a huge project consider joining as a member. I have an app that you can use to call me direct for help and I guarantee to answer questions posted by our members. Cheers! Just hit the join button or check the description of the video for the link
Awesome DIY! I am in the middle of a home reno nightmare. Own HVAC company so plumbing and electrical no problem but have questions on structural stuff. Your videos are great!
Wow nearly 3/4 million subscribers and you still read every comment. I’ve been binge watching your videos and I can’t believe how much knowledge you have I am in awe. Your videos are fun enough that I can watch the 1.5 - 2.5 hour ones in one sitting no problem. Learning so much!
Geoff. I Loved this video. For me, I found this video to be a "real life" video. You didn't have it all planned and edited to be perfect first time. It was real time conversion. Having the structural engineer there with his own thoughts not scripted was brilliant. It's just how jobs go in real life. Loved this and looking forward to next video. Thanks for sharing
I found this video and did the ceiling in my bedroom. Hired an engineer and did it all myself. I had to raise the floor to the level of the rest of the house because I was having moisture wick up through the ground. The ceilings were way low so I did it almost exactly the way you did this one. I had to add in all types of support like lateral braces and another top plate along with supports where the gable vent used to be as well as collar ties of course. This video gave me the motivation so I am glad I found it. Thanks
Funny- I’m about to do both the floor lift and the ceiling, too. Any chance you’re also a youTuber and made a video about raising your floor? cuz I could really use that 😹
I bought one of these balloon frames houses an hour east of Ottawa. 3 years, 6 20 ton Jack's, lally columns, cases of construction adhesive, and a few cases of nails, I leveled the foundation, replaced the sill plate, sistered the bottom 2 feet of the wall studs, replaced and levelled all floor joists on both floors and attic trusses, replaced main and upper floor beams, made the main floor open floor plan. Relocated and replaced stairs, windows, subfloor and flooring. It was the most brutal and frustrating project I've undertaken, but the ROI was really good.
Thank god for you Jeff. I googled "how to vault a ceiling" and a video with some random lady popped up. She pretty much just told me to talk to an engineer (which i was obviously already going to do) and showed the end result. This video was recommended and ive watched many of your videos in the past. You have a how to for everything, you are doing a great service!
Roof vent baffles was supposed to be installed between each rafter before the insulation and plastic so the roof can breath from the eaves to the ridge cap Or it is not necessary???? Im not a builder but i have heard its necessary for air circulation under the roof deck to eliminate Roof overheat / prevent mold build up/helps ice melt down /roof shingles lasts even more But you are the expert sir Just a question !
LOVE! This video is so helpful with our VERY early planning to finish the attic space in our "new" 1940 house. I now feel more comfortable when we eventually have the engineer come out to discuss our options.
Just bought my first house built in 1893...This video was immensely useful! Most of what i have watched on this channel was all new construction, and while also helpful doesnt allow the chance to show tricks like this. Thank you! and please keep more of these coming with the old stuff, Ive got a LONG road ahead of me:)
I'm a structural engineer too. Just a quick comment about collar ties. I know this video was in Canada, so I apologize for any discrepancies in terminology. By definition (see APA's Wood Frame Construction Manual or the Canadian equivalent), a collar tie is a structural framing member located in the upper third of the attic space that ties rafters together to resist roof suction loads at the ridge. That's why most building codes allow strapping over the ridge instead of collar ties. In many old houses, the collar ties function as tension members that keep the ridge from sagging merely because there were no ceiling joists installed. However, the higher the collar tie, the greater the tension force it has to resist to keep the ridge from sagging. As a result, the additional point load created on the rafter at its connection with the collar tie could cause the rafter to fail. That's why the engineer's first choice was to install a ridge beam and columns. It's the easiest way (on paper) to accommodate the gravity loads on the roof. The other side of the coin was ease of construction. Since the ridge beam was difficult to accomplish in the field, the engineer had to make sure there was enough strength in the rafters and collar ties to accommodate the gravity loads they would encounter at the installed height.
(Aspiring engineer here.) Does the engineer have to measure and count every piece of framing within the existing structure to later draw up his plans in the office?
My house is 100 years old and does not have collar ties. It just has joists/studs in a triangle shape. Nothing else; wide open in the attic. Is this ok?
The structural engineer can analyze various suggested solutions and then identify the details of each, which can then used to estimate costs and other impacts. I was a structural engineer, recently retired. Designing houses was always fun since we like architects and their unusual and creative building configurations.
Do you ever take on side work and can you stamp only in one state or several. I need an engineer for a small house I recently purchased. Its a basic rectangle with a 4/12 roof and I want to raise about 1/3 of the roof up to 12 feet with clerestory windows and a flat roof (slightly sloped for drainage). I also do CAD and 3D modeling so I can easily submit renderings and DXF or DWG files.
I really love this video. I'm currently remodeling an 80 year old house doing the same thing. I really like the style here and how you talk through each problem. Having worked on several very old homes I completely agree with your advice to stick with the original technology. The conversation with the structural engineer was really helpful. Thanks for the great work!
Hey Jeff, I would like to thank you for your amazing channel. I started last year watching it and getting ready to renovate my basement. We (me and my wife) started in March, and in between work, kids and graduation, today we called it DONE!!! From demolition to new drywall, taping, mudding, sanding, and painting, we have a new basement. This including your techniques and materials suggestions. Once again, thank you!!! Now, we will get ready for the porch in the backyard next summer. And, if we are comfortable, we will renovate our washroom.
Would have been 1000 times easier if he put a screw left out an inch in the old rafter and used a flat bar to raise the new 2x4 even with the old one. The way he did it he only got x2 leverage, my method gets x10 leverage.
@@jeremycash1990 Wouldn't it be more in line with the old rafter if you were to leverage off of the floor below you? Also shouldn't he have jacked up that new rafter a little higher for the 2nd nail, looks like that would be a reason for the 2x4 to warp
Love this video. My great grandpa built a cabin in the 50s that has the same style roof. He upcycled wood from a job he demolished so the wood is over 100 years old. This video is so helpful and answered many questions I had about the same issues.
I just have to say, I absolutely love watching your videos. I don't always learn something I'm going to use, but so many people call me now to ask for advice or to flat out do little projects for them. I'm constantly telling people I don't really know what I'm doing, but so far I haven't bitten off more than I could chew. I'm about 90% self-taught from books and TH-cam; thanks for the great content!
I’ve had to straighten a 2 story house that the homeowner removed all the collar ties for headroom in his attic , also balloon framed , the exterior walls on 2nd floor had kicked out about 5” @ 6’ , I had to cut the nails and pull studs in with cables while jacking the ridge beam up all from the attic , most people don’t realize you need the extra support before removing those ties !
@4:50: Seems like you could put a metal-cutting blade in your reciprocating saw, slip the blade between the stud and other structures, and just cut the nails.
@Michael Fresh Not necessarily, i use the saw and can cut the nails without cutting the wood siding. You need to know how to angle and also use the right length blade. You just don't have enough experience with a sawsall if you don't think it can be done.
@@Bansheekilr My thoughts exactly. He couldn't even move it with his "big tool" demolition hammer. That wood may look ugly, but that old growth seasoned wood is skookum as frig. Just make sure the leak is fixed, patch it up, sister in a few new pieces and keep it dry and happy for the next 80 years. It will outlive you for damn sure.
Why not leave the old collar ties in place while you install the new ones to ensure that you don't cause any extra bow in the roof due to lack of support?
And you could leave the horizontal 2x4 support on one side, and still placed the ties up, imo. And I wouldn't use electrical boxes that are that shallow, I'd use deeper boxes fastened to the sides of the ties. But that's just me
Just went through this on a 1870 home. We did put in a lam beam, metal plates, hurricane clips, and ties under the beam to tie it all together. Major overkill but it will never move even with snow load. Some areas we ignored level because it made it look awful. The drywall process was a nightmare but final product looks pretty straight. Fun stuff!
raising the collar tie will increase the tension on it, but the weak point will be the rafter. the rafter would snap at the connection from the bending moment before a tie would break from tension. More bolts in the rafter just makes the rafter weaker where it needs to be strongest.
The engineer did increase the collar tie to 2x8 so that increases the tension resistance. For the rafter, he probably has engineered and determined that the existing rafter would hold under bending moment. I would have sistered those rafters though and would not rely on those existing 70 yr old rafters to hold for another 50 yrs.
I wish you would have had some before and after shots of this space. I love your videos, they are very informative and by watching a lot of your videos you helped me remodel my bathroom and kitchen. I did them myself and I was able to save a lot of money in contractor costs. I kept looking at the wall paper thinking, that wall paper is all over the studs and outside wall was there no insulation ??
I gotta say, I LOVE that you said to yourself "I could have 6 extra inches, but... " And made the practical decision! So many people just HAVE to have the MOST. Bravo. Bravo. Bravo!
You’ve made my project so much easier! I’m popping the ceiling on a 1930’s shot gun house. The structure is very similar! Not going full vault will save so much time and material!!
@@cuttheknot4781 as someone with EDS, yes, I needed to recover because it's different for me than others. Troll somewhere else, your hatefulness is just a waste of time. KAG 2020
I had all 4 pulled at once. It does take time to recover. There was no TH-cam in those days. I read 2 entire books in one day. Because you can't jostle around or your sockets bleed!!! I'm old now and just love watching these videos. I have an old house, and wish I was young enough to do all the stuff he does.
Jeff, I am a P.E. that loves architecture, just finished making room over garages in condos by laminating trusses, and eliminating the cross webs. We moved all the HVAC units and water tanks, adding them over the garage and adding storage. This made room for office or bedroom adding value to the patio homes. This is great video to demonstrate fixing the weak structure.(may I suggest you use a house jack before you have a heart attack? :-)
This is great info. Doing this kind of work to an old dog kennel building from the 1940s! And in the midwest US, you know time hasnt been kind to the wood structure!
11:25 it is cool figuring out all the little tricks of using different types and combinations of leverage to get things done much easier. Pry bars, vice grips and even a humble piece of scrap wood are great tools.
I noticed the same thing! Didn’t ‘burn’ them in either. Curious if one of those screw-prep methods is still recommended or for some reason it isn’t required for this application?
There is something magical about the solution to a challenging problem being to just throw more wood at it. Never really thought about that. Usually I'm watching new construction videos and everything is so meticulous, and materials are used minimally. Glad I found this channel about reno'ing an old ass house, because I just bought myself an old ass house that needs some reno.
I had an image of Jeff falling through the floor when he finished demonstrating the strength of the new collar tie and dropped to the floor haha great content as always!
It is surprising that the house is a s solid as it is considering how old it is. Wet wood that can dry in a decent amount of time will always hold up well. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Especially that old growth lumber, it is tough stuff! I break lag bolts in it if I don't pre-drill and I can hear my drill bits crying when I pre-drill too. New lumber is like playdoh in comparison.
Collar ties are the simplest and cheapest way to brace your roof structure. My entire house roof does not have collar ties or a ridge beam, and NO columns. My attic is totally open. The roof rafters are laterally supported by the floor joists of the attic. So the roof structure is just a bigger triangle with larger rafters than if collar ties were used. Also, all the roof dead weight and snow live load on the roof is supported by the side walls of the house, which is about double the load when compared to using a ridge beam with posts. House structural design is kinda fun.
MJS, What you explained is actually how it should be done. The ceiling joists form the bottom leg of the triangle . The larger triangle is far stronger than the smaller triangle installed in the video. In the video, the rafter is free to deflect just below the collar tie down to the top plate. Placing a 2x6 in place of a 2x4 does not benefit you. The loads on the collar tie are in tension. The tie is not seeing a downward load along its length so deflection is not the concern. Tensile loads are the concern. Additionally, when attaching a collar tie, increasing the fastener size does not equate to a stronger connection. It’s typically better to use more nails to distribute the load. Mending plates use this principle. Lots of spikes. The magazine, Journal of Light Construction, has excellent articles on just this topic. And local building codes also spec out the number and size of fasteners for a collar tie connection.
Finally first one to comment, Man GREAT video as always. Any person can tell you were born to do this, and man is it a delight to see your face light up, its like a kid in a candy store. Keep it up
Home Reno is the everyman's Risinger Build Show. It's hilarious to see Matt Risinger go from a overbloated rebuild to a COMPLETE TEAR DOWN for his house lmao! Where as what we see here is muchhhh more realistic and climate/budget friendly. Love the channel, best content for builders.
I’m a pretty decent tiler, tiling in old properties is a pain in the neck for exactly the same reason. Nothing square, nothing level, nothing flat. Small tiles allow you to compensate a little, big tiles are something else.
@@davegordon6943 much faster but harder to lay well if the walls are all over the shop. Seen some horrific work, barely bonded. One bathroom I did a few years ago, which had been skimmed by a cowboy, was about 2 1/2 inches further out at the top than the bottom, bowed in the middle and had wavering angles. Needed to be replastered again, but the client didn’t have the budget 😏
I've been a full time home inspector for 22 years and when I have clients who ask for DIY tips I often refer Jeff's videos. Unbeknownst to me that Jeff is local from right here in Ottawa! I just found out now when he mentioned Merivale Road in a siding video... Now that's a small world! Eric Parent, Ottawahomeinspector.ca
Please don't in future. He is referring to stud wall columns as beams, rafter ties as collar ties and insulating a roof to r-20 when the current Ontario building code calls for r-60...
I feel like I hit the lottery by finding your videos. I also have an older home (late 1800s) that is in a colder climate and requires a lot of work- undoing some bad DIY, uncovering the beauty of the original home, modernizing and doing everything well enough to give it another 100 years of life. Its daunting. Im actually tackling a project that is eerily similar to the one you are doing here. The only difference is that I have rafter ties and not the collar ties. The way you talk to your engineer is exactly what I would sound like... "This is the main thing...ok and this is something we are doing over here, is that cool?... ok now I have a dream of adding this in the future, what I can I do now to prep for that?" I want to add a skylight in the room we are tackling now, but I think in a few years we may be replacing the roof and it will be easier to add the skylights and dormers then.
I love the video, it reflects the real world, at least is I have experienced it in 34 years of construction. Having said that, because of the ability of lumber to split as it dries, nails in a piece of lumber do not substitute for compressive strength of lumber. To properly meet code, the center stud should have been stacked directly above a clean cut on the existing stud, and then held in place with two by fours on either side going at least 24 in over the existing and the new stud(could be longer, you would have to look up the current code). In any event, you can't transfer a load using nails, the weight of which goes down the grain of the wood. There are no exceptions to this rule. If the grain is horizontal, then it's fine. But if the grain is vertical nails are useless with respect to load. At the building code, whether we like it or not. Fortunately, in the case of this structure you actually only need to scissor in the one stud in the middle, because the others are not carrying a load.
You're reading the level wrong on your "temporary brace." One has to keep the level either horizontal or vertical, not at the angle it was being used. I'd suggest using some mason string and a line level. The string isn't perfect in horizontal situations because of gravity, especially in long runs, but you could've corrected the roof-line sag, strengthened the structure, provided depth for more r-value insulation, and a nice level ceiling surface. Those long strips added to the rafters for depth just added more weight to the sag. One would have to do the math to see what depth would be needed for the r-value required, including the air space between the insulation and roof sheathing to determine whether 2x8's or another size would suffice sistered to the old rafters but that's the way I would've gone. At least you're trying but it appears you have thousands of people following and probably also doing it wrong. Admittedly...it's easy to be a critic. Sorry.
And the no predrill for the lags, with no backing washer (Exactly why structural screws exist). Or the incorrectly used pan box with an open knockout right up against wood. Or not understanding that all the nails he put into the kneewall are in shear with the grain of the wood which is useless. Or the hilariously bad framing on it in the first place. Or the ice damming and condensation issues that will come from the incorrectly insulated roof. Or the laminated 2x4 on the kneewall that is doing nothing, but he thinks somehow strengthened it. Or... This is a perfect representation of DIY guys pretending to be contractors.
@@lousassol3 I thought he addressed that just before adding the nails - in consideration for movement/flexibility and what is the existing structure and material -> don't go creating a super perfect and inflexible addition to a building that isn't perfect and inflexible. "on budget" is never a contractor-friendly expression. Present a contractor with a 15-year-old car that has a dent and they say, "oh we need to gut the inside and redo everything" so it can run like a BMW. The advice and work done here no doubt comes from years of experience working on old beaters, which is what most of us are dealing with at home. Having said that, always go with what the structural engineer has to say - that's the message I learned today.
My God. No break or lap on the double top plates that are joined at a half rotten plate. Eyeball guess at the heel of the rafter reinforcement. Why not just take your carpenter pencil and scribe a fit to the top plate. WTF you could have done that in the time you took explaining why you did not need to. Why in the heck you don't use a rotating laser to at least give you a chance at a level collar tie line is beyond me. Ridiculous
Yeah ... HACKS. I know my handle is misleading here, but I'm a journeyman carpenter, a journeyman plumber, hold a third year electrical apprenticeship, and a second year HVAC apprenticeship. I got all of that so I could ACTUALLY do complete renovations, safely, properly. I've done Reno's for over 30 years and there is NO WAY IN HELL I would leave compromised framing members in a wall and just scab on a few feet of 2x4 (AND constantly refer to them as 2x2s). Also, I don't think I've seen anyone on a job site wear their aprons in the front in 20 years. I know I haven't since I was 17. Gets in the way when framing, roofing, even siding if you're bending. I'll give him kudos for siding and tile work, though, except when he through the trash he cut out his mirror opening into the wall cavity. That's exactly what I want a contractor doing.
I appreciate the video and the knowledge I’ve taken from it, but I’ve gotta say, the way he pushed the engineer into questions and answers is the precise reason that they can’t be fully honest with us.
Not sure your correct on the lag bolts “drive it until you can’t drive it anymore “. Crushed wood fibers weaken the structure; at least in sheeting it does. If your doing it for clamping use washers.
One your best vids yet. Novice (and likely a very stupid question): you used nails and screws on this project - when should you use a screw and when should you use a nail; and why?
You are the one that is Awesome!! ha did you just raise your roof with one hand.. lol leverage.. it's a good thing.. love your channel.. thanks for all the great videos !!
I totally want to borrow, "It offends the mind." Thank you for another video that is not only educational but fun. Keep up the good work! Quick question: We just learned that the valve/mixer that we bought for the shower is a 3 way, even though I was certain we had picked up the 2 way valve. Is it possible to cap it and still use it? Also it is all copper and we wanted to use PEX is there a copper to PEX adapter that we can use? Thank you!
8:49. Your going above and beyond. This laminated design is far superior to what was there before. Other than the fact that your using a low grain count pine compared to the existing structure. I would definitely give this my stamp.
Maybe I've been given bad info about levels that it has to be held plumb for the bubble vial to be accurate. At about 27:50 the way you are holding your level flat against the rafters will give a bad bubble. Also I was always taught that levels only read correctly with the vial at the top as there is a very slight camber built into the vial. Maybe I'm wrong though. Love all your videos!
Spray foam needs poly barrier a company did it at the temple and their well known. It is much more warmer but if you sit close to thr wall underneath the wall and carpet you can feel a breeze.
I use to build new houses and will recomended to use long 2x6 from the pick of the roof to sit it on the pony wall..if you use pieces ,with the years will star to failing down
This was good information. My house was built in 1947 with rough sawn 2x8 rafters but rough sawn 2x4 collar ties every other rafter. I'm doing some work up in the attic so I think I'll just add in some collar ties on the rafters missing them after seeing how important they are to the engineer and how much he wanted you to do just to move them up a few feet. I had always been taught that as long as it was in the upper 1/3 and your joists below ran parallel to the rafters that the height of placement wasn't an issue but I have since changed my mind.
You're right. Code is no higher than 2/3 of the verticle rise of the rafter. Nailing schedule is important. Ask your building official or get a code book
I have my degree in structural engineering but don't work as one. I'm a carpenter of 30+ years. If I was an engineer I probably would have used glued and nailed plywood and amended the rafters to make them into scissor trusses. The plywood would be oversized gussets. Could have kept the vaulted ceiling but would have lowered the slope of the internal ceiling just a little bit. Carpentry would be 3-4 man days.
You should do a vaulted ceiling for a garage so you can use an 9 ft car lift that would be phenomenal because most people want a lift in their garage that do mechanic work LOL
Vaulted ceilings in cold climates should be atleast R-30-R38. Should have sistered 2x8s or 2x10s to rafters for strength, straightness and proper insulation and ventilation space.
Awesome!!! Thanks for posting structural engineering topics! Would love to hear about the topic of how to underpin in a crawlspace to basement conversation. My husband and I are contemplating such an endeavor, family is growing and we feel we need the space.
Unless you are willing to shell out some serious $$$$, looking for a home that fits what you need might be a better idea and way less of a headache. I am a structural engineer, and although I have personally never designed a conversion from a crawlspace to a basement, I can tell you that anytime you deal with the foundation, the smallest mistake can cost tens of thousands of dollars in damage. I have designed several foundation repairs and I can tell you right now, they are always a nightmare for the homeowner and they usually require engineering and permits to get done.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY We live in rural North Georgia, beautiful homestead on 5 acres. Don't want to sell bc It's kind of a dream home, we can do without a full basement, but at minimum need some sort of cellar, (I can't eat commercial food due to bad food allergies) storm shelter would be nice. Would love to move the water heater by moving it underneath. Tankless makes sense if you have propane, but not if you don't kill o watt wise. Not really a good location to dig a root cellar due to powerline easement, septic tank and pasture locations.
Of course, now that I think about it... It seems too grandiose rather than practical. We could really use a garage and that would alleviate some storage issues like gardening supplies. We have yard space for that. It would be cool though to have a video on foundations in general, how they are supposed to be built, what can go wrong and why, stories on the topic whether successful or unsuccessful. I just love learning and love your videos! Plus I love Canadians bc I lived in Ontario for a few years in the 90's. ❤️
We are thinking about raising the ceiling in our master. It's all very valuable, but possibly the best, smartest and time/money efficient information/instruction, is conveyed in this video beginning at 23:36 Bravo!
I haven't finished watching but I would've done a few things differently like cutting the nails between the corner board and the sheathing. I also would've built up the top plate to match the thickness of the original plate and lapped it with the existing top plate rather than cutting it square. A taut string-line, wedging a temporary board to straighten the rafters, and sister a board to both keep it straight and add depth for insulation is what I've done before. A knee wall could beef-up the structure as well.
I came across a bunch of your videos and I always said if he didn't talk too much it would have been more fun to watch your videos but the problem here is that for not listening to you I made the biggest mistake in a renovation which it took me to go back to some of your videos where you were talking to much and get all that information I needed it thank you so much you got amazing videos God bless you and your family
Nice job showing how to tie into old stuff instead of shoving down our throat that we need to completely tear down everything and install this brand new MAke it Left approved engineered whatever. Only thing is I would personally not be comfortable with leaving damaged/rot old wood patched up in there.
absolutly, all the people i know would scrap the thing. my dad and i repair and when it's finish, it's probably more solid because we replace what is rotten but we keep old 2-by or 3by (true, not nominal) or even solid square log that were use in the beginning of the 19th... so we do with a fraction of the cost, no pro builder would do it cause when you give them a contract, they give you the price of the material, + the time + profit. What you don't know is that because of volume, they have a better price for material than what they sell you (your bill is often what the company charge you and NOT what they paid). So they do the money twice, with the profit that you negotiate AND with the material. This is why, when something is rotten, you heard : «boss, i found some money»... With the «problem» usually the plan is to demolish and put new... material (then you pay the engineer, the architect, all the expert)... People don'T know that you can fix a house with hydrolic, concrete bag, 6x6 post, and 2x 10 ... to repairs beam... when your beam are OK, than you can do what you want, as long as you understand the code...
I'm looking to tackle a similar project! My 70 yr old house has ceiling joists and roof rafters... we are wanting to demo the the joists and replace them with collar ties. Doing so will (on paper) kill 2 birds with one stone. It'll allow us to demo a wall that is currently supporting the joists, and it'll open up the space with a much taller ceiling! Seeing your progress gets me excited to start!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I laughed when you mentioned you were asking a lot of that old wood. I couldn't concentrate on what you were saying the first half of the video because I kept scanning the wall behind you thinking "for goodness sake please rip that wood out of there!!" :)
First person to say no to an extra 6 inches xD. Great video, We build a bit differently in South Africa, but I'm going to try and see what i can do with your knowledge sharing.
I would have laminated to the side of each rafter then you could adjust height and a strait plane would have cost more in lumber would have been a better build
![HIWWHEE | OHM [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OJJLtTLqLag/mqdefault.jpg)
If you end up tackling a huge project consider joining as a member. I have an app that you can use to call me direct for help and I guarantee to answer questions posted by our members. Cheers! Just hit the join button or check the description of the video for the link
Membership is so worth it! I recommend that anyone who is tackling a DIY renovation project subscribe to the membership.
Awesome DIY! I am in the middle of a home reno nightmare. Own HVAC company so plumbing and electrical no problem but have questions on structural stuff. Your videos are great!
super video, my dad and i are not rich, but we build new cabin and renovate old appartment, your tips are super usefull
seriously best videos on youtube when it comes it renos amazing that you offer a way to get a hold of you!
Home RenoVision DIY I need a good small contractor like you! I wish you were in nyc :-(
Wow nearly 3/4 million subscribers and you still read every comment. I’ve been binge watching your videos and I can’t believe how much knowledge you have I am in awe. Your videos are fun enough that I can watch the 1.5 - 2.5 hour ones in one sitting no problem. Learning so much!
Cheers Shawn, Happy to help!
Geoff. I Loved this video. For me, I found this video to be a "real life" video. You didn't have it all planned and edited to be perfect first time. It was real time conversion. Having the structural engineer there with his own thoughts not scripted was brilliant. It's just how jobs go in real life.
Loved this and looking forward to next video.
Thanks for sharing
LOL, we never scripty anything. But I agree the interaction was great to have. perhaps more trade pros in the future. Cheers!
100% agree
Plain talk.
I found this video and did the ceiling in my bedroom. Hired an engineer and did it all myself. I had to raise the floor to the level of the rest of the house because I was having moisture wick up through the ground. The ceilings were way low so I did it almost exactly the way you did this one. I had to add in all types of support like lateral braces and another top plate along with supports where the gable vent used to be as well as collar ties of course. This video gave me the motivation so I am glad I found it. Thanks
Hey how would you evict a racoon, serious question.
Funny- I’m about to do both the floor lift and the ceiling, too.
Any chance you’re also a youTuber and made a video about raising your floor?
cuz I could really use that 😹
@@Thegbiggamerz put some apples in a trap
@@Thegbiggamerz strobe light
That's great!
I bought one of these balloon frames houses an hour east of Ottawa. 3 years, 6 20 ton Jack's, lally columns, cases of construction adhesive, and a few cases of nails, I leveled the foundation, replaced the sill plate, sistered the bottom 2 feet of the wall studs, replaced and levelled all floor joists on both floors and attic trusses, replaced main and upper floor beams, made the main floor open floor plan. Relocated and replaced stairs, windows, subfloor and flooring. It was the most brutal and frustrating project I've undertaken, but the ROI was really good.
Thank god for you Jeff. I googled "how to vault a ceiling" and a video with some random lady popped up. She pretty much just told me to talk to an engineer (which i was obviously already going to do) and showed the end result. This video was recommended and ive watched many of your videos in the past. You have a how to for everything, you are doing a great service!
Roof vent baffles was supposed to be installed between each rafter before the insulation and plastic so the roof can breath from the eaves to the ridge cap
Or it is not necessary????
Im not a builder but i have heard its necessary for air circulation under the roof deck to eliminate
Roof overheat / prevent mold build up/helps ice melt down /roof shingles lasts even more
But you are the expert sir
Just a question !
LOVE! This video is so helpful with our VERY early planning to finish the attic space in our "new" 1940 house. I now feel more comfortable when we eventually have the engineer come out to discuss our options.
Just bought my first house built in 1893...This video was immensely useful! Most of what i have watched on this channel was all new construction, and while also helpful doesnt allow the chance to show tricks like this. Thank you! and please keep more of these coming with the old stuff, Ive got a LONG road ahead of me:)
Hi Eric, we just finished shooting video of insulation and vapor barrier on this old beast. I am sure it will come in handy. Cheers!
I'm a structural engineer too. Just a quick comment about collar ties. I know this video was in Canada, so I apologize for any discrepancies in terminology.
By definition (see APA's Wood Frame Construction Manual or the Canadian equivalent), a collar tie is a structural framing member located in the upper third of the attic space that ties rafters together to resist roof suction loads at the ridge. That's why most building codes allow strapping over the ridge instead of collar ties. In many old houses, the collar ties function as tension members that keep the ridge from sagging merely because there were no ceiling joists installed. However, the higher the collar tie, the greater the tension force it has to resist to keep the ridge from sagging. As a result, the additional point load created on the rafter at its connection with the collar tie could cause the rafter to fail.
That's why the engineer's first choice was to install a ridge beam and columns. It's the easiest way (on paper) to accommodate the gravity loads on the roof. The other side of the coin was ease of construction. Since the ridge beam was difficult to accomplish in the field, the engineer had to make sure there was enough strength in the rafters and collar ties to accommodate the gravity loads they would encounter at the installed height.
(Aspiring engineer here.) Does the engineer have to measure and count every piece of framing within the existing structure to later draw up his plans in the office?
My house is 100 years old and does not have collar ties. It just has joists/studs in a triangle shape. Nothing else; wide open in the attic. Is this ok?
The structural engineer can analyze various suggested solutions and then identify the details of each, which can then used to estimate costs and other impacts. I was a structural engineer, recently retired. Designing houses was always fun since we like architects and their unusual and creative building configurations.
Do you ever take on side work and can you stamp only in one state or several. I need an engineer for a small house I recently purchased. Its a basic rectangle with a 4/12 roof and I want to raise about 1/3 of the roof up to 12 feet with clerestory windows and a flat roof (slightly sloped for drainage). I also do CAD and 3D modeling so I can easily submit renderings and DXF or DWG files.
I really love this video. I'm currently remodeling an 80 year old house doing the same thing. I really like the style here and how you talk through each problem. Having worked on several very old homes I completely agree with your advice to stick with the original technology. The conversation with the structural engineer was really helpful. Thanks for the great work!
Hey Jeff, I would like to thank you for your amazing channel. I started last year watching it and getting ready to renovate my basement. We (me and my wife) started in March, and in between work, kids and graduation, today we called it DONE!!! From demolition to new drywall, taping, mudding, sanding, and painting, we have a new basement. This including your techniques and materials suggestions. Once again, thank you!!!
Now, we will get ready for the porch in the backyard next summer. And, if we are comfortable, we will renovate our washroom.
That sounds like a solid plan. Congratulations. Cheers!
A priceless conversation with the engineer. Thank you for sharing!
11:45 Introducing the one-handed human roof jack, with optional mega-thrust off hand power nailing! That move was unreal.
paleeez!
Would have been 1000 times easier if he put a screw left out an inch in the old rafter and used a flat bar to raise the new 2x4 even with the old one. The way he did it he only got x2 leverage, my method gets x10 leverage.
@@jeremycash1990 Wouldn't it be more in line with the old rafter if you were to leverage off of the floor below you? Also shouldn't he have jacked up that new rafter a little higher for the 2nd nail, looks like that would be a reason for the 2x4 to warp
I need more content like this, remodeling old houses, and the methods employed to do so.
we have a series on our kitchen renovation done in this house coming soon. Cheers!
I couldn't agree more. This was excellent.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Awesome! You all are doing great work here.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY hey need some advice on my porch its a two storie family struggling
Love this video. My great grandpa built a cabin in the 50s that has the same style roof. He upcycled wood from a job he demolished so the wood is over 100 years old. This video is so helpful and answered many questions I had about the same issues.
I just have to say, I absolutely love watching your videos. I don't always learn something I'm going to use, but so many people call me now to ask for advice or to flat out do little projects for them. I'm constantly telling people I don't really know what I'm doing, but so far I haven't bitten off more than I could chew. I'm about 90% self-taught from books and TH-cam; thanks for the great content!
Cheers Ty! Nice to be Handy!
I’ve had to straighten a 2 story house that the homeowner removed all the collar ties for headroom in his attic , also balloon framed , the exterior walls on 2nd floor had kicked out about 5” @ 6’ , I had to cut the nails and pull studs in with cables while jacking the ridge beam up all from the attic , most people don’t realize you need the extra support before removing those ties !
Is it possible to straighten brick walls though?
@@impactodelsurenterprise2440 I would think so , it’s nothing I would attempt
Watching you helps motivate me on my renovation. I am renovating a gutted 1937 Foursquare by myself and have been running out of steam.
I mean, never built anything in my life and you are making me interested into changing career...
This business is 30% training and 120||% integrity! Cheers|!
@4:50: Seems like you could put a metal-cutting blade in your reciprocating saw, slip the blade between the stud and other structures, and just cut the nails.
@Michael Fresh Not necessarily, i use the saw and can cut the nails without cutting the wood siding. You need to know how to angle and also use the right length blade. You just don't have enough experience with a sawsall if you don't think it can be done.
14:08 "Depends on the engineer. Depends on where you live. And sometimes just depends on on how the sun was shining that day!"" GREAT LINE!
Also depends on if he had a fight with his wife last night.
“You should not be able to rip apart your house with your bare hands folks”
He sounded like Red Green 😂😂
I thought the same thing. “Remember, if women don’t find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.”
“You should not be able to rip your house apart with your bare hands”
Struggles and doesn’t actually rip off the piece.
@@Bansheekilr My thoughts exactly. He couldn't even move it with his "big tool" demolition hammer. That wood may look ugly, but that old growth seasoned wood is skookum as frig. Just make sure the leak is fixed, patch it up, sister in a few new pieces and keep it dry and happy for the next 80 years. It will outlive you for damn sure.
Why not leave the old collar ties in place while you install the new ones to ensure that you don't cause any extra bow in the roof due to lack of support?
Big point
That’s what I was thinking
And you could leave the horizontal 2x4 support on one side, and still placed the ties up, imo. And I wouldn't use electrical boxes that are that shallow, I'd use deeper boxes fastened to the sides of the ties. But that's just me
I always thumb's up your video's before I even watch them just because I know you know what you're doing and talking about. :)
You are a hard working man - who's an excellent teacher - thanks!
Cheers!
Just went through this on a 1870 home. We did put in a lam beam, metal plates, hurricane clips, and ties under the beam to tie it all together. Major overkill but it will never move even with snow load. Some areas we ignored level because it made it look awful. The drywall process was a nightmare but final product looks pretty straight. Fun stuff!
This old Canadian House, S1 episode 1.
LOL, I love it! Cheers!
We're gonna do this from the ooootside lol
Eh?
raising the collar tie will increase the tension on it, but the weak point will be the rafter. the rafter would snap at the connection from the bending moment before a tie would break from tension. More bolts in the rafter just makes the rafter weaker where it needs to be strongest.
The engineer did increase the collar tie to 2x8 so that increases the tension resistance. For the rafter, he probably has engineered and determined that the existing rafter would hold under bending moment. I would have sistered those rafters though and would not rely on those existing 70 yr old rafters to hold for another 50 yrs.
I wish you would have had some before and after shots of this space. I love your videos, they are very informative and by watching a lot of your videos you helped me remodel my bathroom and kitchen. I did them myself and I was able to save a lot of money in contractor costs.
I kept looking at the wall paper thinking, that wall paper is all over the studs and outside wall was there no insulation ??
I gotta say, I LOVE that you said to yourself "I could have 6 extra inches, but... " And made the practical decision!
So many people just HAVE to have the MOST.
Bravo. Bravo. Bravo!
Are you supposed to pre-drill holes for lag bolts (screws)?
This is why I love GRK fasteners.
Great work Jeff!
You’ve made my project so much easier! I’m popping the ceiling on a 1930’s shot gun house. The structure is very similar! Not going full vault will save so much time and material!!
As a Canadian, I appreciate this video.
As an American, I like this video!
Interesting eh?
So thankful for all the new videos to watch while I'm recovering from wisdom teeth removal. Keeps my mind active and I love learning new things!
Cheers Windy, I hope you have a speedy recovery without any complications. Take care!
Who has to "recover" from having wisdom teeth removed? Are you a Loony liberal? You know; a precious snowflake...give me a break.
@@cuttheknot4781 as someone with EDS, yes, I needed to recover because it's different for me than others. Troll somewhere else, your hatefulness is just a waste of time. KAG 2020
I had all 4 pulled at once. It does take time to recover. There was no TH-cam in those days. I read 2 entire books in one day. Because you can't jostle around or your sockets bleed!!! I'm old now and just love watching these videos. I have an old house, and wish I was young enough to do all the stuff he does.
My OCD kicked in and I can't focus on anything other than all that deteriorating wood that should be replaced...
Thats what im thinking.. but i guess this isnt anywhere near ny and they prob have diff standards
I do the back of the hammer trick. if a swing takes out a chunk, she has to go. if she leaves a dent and isnt moldy, good! lol
Jeff, I am a P.E. that loves architecture, just finished making room over garages in condos by laminating trusses, and eliminating the cross webs. We moved all the HVAC units and water tanks, adding them over the garage and adding storage. This made room for office or bedroom adding value to the patio homes. This is great video to demonstrate fixing the weak structure.(may I suggest you use a house jack before you have a heart attack? :-)
Great video. Really enjoyed watching all of the problem solving you had to go through to get you to the end result!
Can't wait for the next video!
Cheers , we thought folks might enjoy seeing some of the creative process we are going through.
I agree. Structural engineers are awesome. Couldn't live without 'em!
This is great info. Doing this kind of work to an old dog kennel building from the 1940s! And in the midwest US, you know time hasnt been kind to the wood structure!
As long as we can keep these old things dry they will last a long time. cheers!
You wouldn't happen to be in Michigan? I've been watching a new business renovated all old pet store building.
@@neitzelm1 nope sorry! Milwaukee
11:25 it is cool figuring out all the little tricks of using different types and combinations of leverage to get things done much easier. Pry bars, vice grips and even a humble piece of scrap wood are great tools.
I noticed you didn't pre drill holes for the lag bolts. Doesn't that risk splitting the wood?
I noticed the same thing! Didn’t ‘burn’ them in either. Curious if one of those screw-prep methods is still recommended or for some reason it isn’t required for this application?
this video is one of the most satisfying videos on TH-cam...breaking rotten lumber and nailing in new fresh ones..
This guy reminds me so much of Red Green... His mannerisms and his choice of words.
It's the Canadian way
100%, love him
Lol. Minus the duct tape
There is something magical about the solution to a challenging problem being to just throw more wood at it. Never really thought about that. Usually I'm watching new construction videos and everything is so meticulous, and materials are used minimally. Glad I found this channel about reno'ing an old ass house, because I just bought myself an old ass house that needs some reno.
Welcome to the club. Cheers!
I had an image of Jeff falling through the floor when he finished demonstrating the strength of the new collar tie and dropped to the floor haha great content as always!
It is surprising that the house is a s solid as it is considering how old it is. Wet wood that can dry in a decent amount of time will always hold up well. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Especially that old growth lumber, it is tough stuff! I break lag bolts in it if I don't pre-drill and I can hear my drill bits crying when I pre-drill too. New lumber is like playdoh in comparison.
Plumb,level,straight,flush...NOTHIN'! HA HA HA! Got a big bow to it.
Collar ties are the simplest and cheapest way to brace your roof structure. My entire house roof does not have collar ties or a ridge beam, and NO columns. My attic is totally open. The roof rafters are laterally supported by the floor joists of the attic. So the roof structure is just a bigger triangle with larger rafters than if collar ties were used. Also, all the roof dead weight and snow live load on the roof is supported by the side walls of the house, which is about double the load when compared to using a ridge beam with posts. House structural design is kinda fun.
MJS, What you explained is actually how it should be done. The ceiling joists form the bottom leg of the triangle . The larger triangle is far stronger than the smaller triangle installed in the video. In the video, the rafter is free to deflect just below the collar tie down to the top plate. Placing a 2x6 in place of a 2x4 does not benefit you. The loads on the collar tie are in tension. The tie is not seeing a downward load along its length so deflection is not the concern. Tensile loads are the concern. Additionally, when attaching a collar tie, increasing the fastener size does not equate to a stronger connection. It’s typically better to use more nails to distribute the load. Mending plates use this principle. Lots of spikes. The magazine, Journal of Light Construction, has excellent articles on just this topic. And local building codes also spec out the number and size of fasteners for a collar tie connection.
Great video! My home is 135 years old and this provided a lot of needed information for my attic area!
Finally first one to comment, Man GREAT video as always. Any person can tell you were born to do this, and man is it a delight to see your face light up, its like a kid in a candy store. Keep it up
Thank you, I do love what I do!
Home Reno is the everyman's Risinger Build Show. It's hilarious to see Matt Risinger go from a overbloated rebuild to a COMPLETE TEAR DOWN for his house lmao!
Where as what we see here is muchhhh more realistic and climate/budget friendly.
Love the channel, best content for builders.
11:53 dude almost went super sayan
😂😂😂 I repeatedly hit your time marker. Wow that was funny.
KAME HAME HAAAA
*Grows full head of golden, spiky hair, while the air rushes all around making a whoosh whoosh whoosh whoosh noise*
😂😂😂😂😂
im dead with this comment hahaha
This nerd has a very big brain, our whole western World was built thanks to men like him.
That's a high ceiling.. gonna be a sight to see
Just got the new windows in and it looks awesome.Cheers!
U taught me a thing or two!! Thank u!Got a 80 plus yr old house I’m working on with 2*4 rafters that are busted.. I got a great how to now!
I’m a pretty decent tiler, tiling in old properties is a pain in the neck for exactly the same reason. Nothing square, nothing level, nothing flat. Small tiles allow you to compensate a little, big tiles are something else.
@@davegordon6943 much faster but harder to lay well if the walls are all over the shop. Seen some horrific work, barely bonded. One bathroom I did a few years ago, which had been skimmed by a cowboy, was about 2 1/2 inches further out at the top than the bottom, bowed in the middle and had wavering angles. Needed to be replastered again, but the client didn’t have the budget 😏
I've been a full time home inspector for 22 years and when I have clients who ask for DIY tips I often refer Jeff's videos. Unbeknownst to me that Jeff is local from right here in Ottawa! I just found out now when he mentioned Merivale Road in a siding video... Now that's a small world! Eric Parent, Ottawahomeinspector.ca
Please don't in future. He is referring to stud wall columns as beams, rafter ties as collar ties and insulating a roof to r-20 when the current Ontario building code calls for r-60...
"...it offends the mind." - Best line ever.
I feel like I hit the lottery by finding your videos. I also have an older home (late 1800s) that is in a colder climate and requires a lot of work- undoing some bad DIY, uncovering the beauty of the original home, modernizing and doing everything well enough to give it another 100 years of life. Its daunting. Im actually tackling a project that is eerily similar to the one you are doing here. The only difference is that I have rafter ties and not the collar ties. The way you talk to your engineer is exactly what I would sound like... "This is the main thing...ok and this is something we are doing over here, is that cool?... ok now I have a dream of adding this in the future, what I can I do now to prep for that?" I want to add a skylight in the room we are tackling now, but I think in a few years we may be replacing the roof and it will be easier to add the skylights and dormers then.
I love the video, it reflects the real world, at least is I have experienced it in 34 years of construction. Having said that, because of the ability of lumber to split as it dries, nails in a piece of lumber do not substitute for compressive strength of lumber. To properly meet code, the center stud should have been stacked directly above a clean cut on the existing stud, and then held in place with two by fours on either side going at least 24 in over the existing and the new stud(could be longer, you would have to look up the current code). In any event, you can't transfer a load using nails, the weight of which goes down the grain of the wood. There are no exceptions to this rule. If the grain is horizontal, then it's fine. But if the grain is vertical nails are useless with respect to load. At the building code, whether we like it or not. Fortunately, in the case of this structure you actually only need to scissor in the one stud in the middle, because the others are not carrying a load.
I needed this 3 years ago when redoing my kitchen or 2 months doing any room. Still working on it and my redo it, the right way! Thanks!!
Glad it was helpful!
You're reading the level wrong on your "temporary brace." One has to keep the level either horizontal or vertical, not at the angle it was being used. I'd suggest using some mason string and a line level. The string isn't perfect in horizontal situations because of gravity, especially in long runs, but you could've corrected the roof-line sag, strengthened the structure, provided depth for more r-value insulation, and a nice level ceiling surface. Those long strips added to the rafters for depth just added more weight to the sag. One would have to do the math to see what depth would be needed for the r-value required, including the air space between the insulation and roof sheathing to determine whether 2x8's or another size would suffice sistered to the old rafters but that's the way I would've gone. At least you're trying but it appears you have thousands of people following and probably also doing it wrong. Admittedly...it's easy to be a critic. Sorry.
And the no predrill for the lags, with no backing washer (Exactly why structural screws exist). Or the incorrectly used pan box with an open knockout right up against wood. Or not understanding that all the nails he put into the kneewall are in shear with the grain of the wood which is useless. Or the hilariously bad framing on it in the first place. Or the ice damming and condensation issues that will come from the incorrectly insulated roof. Or the laminated 2x4 on the kneewall that is doing nothing, but he thinks somehow strengthened it. Or...
This is a perfect representation of DIY guys pretending to be contractors.
@@lousassol3 I thought he addressed that just before adding the nails - in consideration for movement/flexibility and what is the existing structure and material -> don't go creating a super perfect and inflexible addition to a building that isn't perfect and inflexible.
"on budget" is never a contractor-friendly expression.
Present a contractor with a 15-year-old car that has a dent and they say, "oh we need to gut the inside and redo everything" so it can run like a BMW.
The advice and work done here no doubt comes from years of experience working on old beaters, which is what most of us are dealing with at home.
Having said that, always go with what the structural engineer has to say - that's the message I learned today.
My God. No break or lap on the double top plates that are joined at a half rotten plate. Eyeball guess at the heel of the rafter reinforcement. Why not just take your carpenter pencil and scribe a fit to the top plate. WTF you could have done that in the time you took explaining why you did not need to.
Why in the heck you don't use a rotating laser to at least give you a chance at a level collar tie line is beyond me. Ridiculous
I like how you explained the WHY of the decisions and options. I like the hacks of re-aligning the compromised roof.
Yeah ... HACKS. I know my handle is misleading here, but I'm a journeyman carpenter, a journeyman plumber, hold a third year electrical apprenticeship, and a second year HVAC apprenticeship. I got all of that so I could ACTUALLY do complete renovations, safely, properly. I've done Reno's for over 30 years and there is NO WAY IN HELL I would leave compromised framing members in a wall and just scab on a few feet of 2x4 (AND constantly refer to them as 2x2s). Also, I don't think I've seen anyone on a job site wear their aprons in the front in 20 years. I know I haven't since I was 17. Gets in the way when framing, roofing, even siding if you're bending.
I'll give him kudos for siding and tile work, though, except when he through the trash he cut out his mirror opening into the wall cavity. That's exactly what I want a contractor doing.
I would just fir out the rafters and leave the origional collar ties exposed, which would avoid any major structural elements...
I appreciate the video and the knowledge I’ve taken from it, but I’ve gotta say, the way he pushed the engineer into questions and answers is the precise reason that they can’t be fully honest with us.
I think I saw your head do a full 360 when your level in the rafter registered. Blew your mind. Lol
It happens more than you think. Cheers Wendy!
The best building show on TH-cam. I always learn something new.
An in this Episode. We learn how to Cover up a ROTTED OUT Exterior wall!! That should have been torn DOWN!!!! and Fix correctly! LMAO.
This is the most valuable channel on TH-cam
Always enjoy watching your videos from Muscle Shoals, Alabama USA.
Thanks mark, cheers to Alabama!
Not sure your correct on the lag bolts “drive it until you can’t drive it anymore “. Crushed wood fibers weaken the structure; at least in sheeting it does. If your doing it for clamping use washers.
One your best vids yet. Novice (and likely a very stupid question): you used nails and screws on this project - when should you use a screw and when should you use a nail; and why?
nails for shear strength if carrying load, screws for convenience and allows you to make modifications later much easier. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Don't forget, screws have better tensile strength than nails. Different tools for different jobs.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Got it. Thanks!!
I never saw lag bolts just screwed right in like that! I always see them fixed with a nut. A lot easier the way you did it.
Lag bolts have a screw thread. carriage bolts have a machine nut threaded end. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Duh! Thanks for the kind reply!
You are the one that is Awesome!! ha did you just raise your roof with one hand.. lol leverage.. it's a good thing.. love your channel.. thanks for all the great videos !!
I don't own a house nor I ever did handy work, but you make it so interesting!
Cheers!
I totally want to borrow, "It offends the mind." Thank you for another video that is not only educational but fun. Keep up the good work!
Quick question: We just learned that the valve/mixer that we bought for the shower is a 3 way, even though I was certain we had picked up the 2 way valve. Is it possible to cap it and still use it? Also it is all copper and we wanted to use PEX is there a copper to PEX adapter that we can use? Thank you!
Yes you can solder on a female copper to 1/22 inch pex. Cheers to ChocolateRx!!!!
8:49.
Your going above and beyond.
This laminated design is far superior to what was there before.
Other than the fact that your using a low grain count pine compared to the existing structure.
I would definitely give this my stamp.
Great job as always. I wish we could have seen an "introduction" with you of the house and roof...???
Maybe I've been given bad info about levels that it has to be held plumb for the bubble vial to be accurate. At about 27:50 the way you are holding your level flat against the rafters will give a bad bubble. Also I was always taught that levels only read correctly with the vial at the top as there is a very slight camber built into the vial. Maybe I'm wrong though.
Love all your videos!
just curious why not use spray foam insulation great r-value, and also so would tighten up everything on an old building.
Spray foam needs poly barrier a company did it at the temple and their well known. It is much more warmer but if you sit close to thr wall underneath the wall and carpet you can feel a breeze.
I use to build new houses and will recomended to use long 2x6 from the pick of the roof to sit it on the pony wall..if you use pieces ,with the years will star to failing down
that works on new houses, but this is and old balloon framed house. totally different technology here. Cheers!
This was good information. My house was built in 1947 with rough sawn 2x8 rafters but rough sawn 2x4 collar ties every other rafter. I'm doing some work up in the attic so I think I'll just add in some collar ties on the rafters missing them after seeing how important they are to the engineer and how much he wanted you to do just to move them up a few feet. I had always been taught that as long as it was in the upper 1/3 and your joists below ran parallel to the rafters that the height of placement wasn't an issue but I have since changed my mind.
never hurts to double up when it is that cheap. Cheers!
You're right. Code is no higher than 2/3 of the verticle rise of the rafter. Nailing schedule is important. Ask your building official or get a code book
I have my degree in structural engineering but don't work as one. I'm a carpenter of 30+ years. If I was an engineer I probably would have used glued and nailed plywood and amended the rafters to make them into scissor trusses. The plywood would be oversized gussets. Could have kept the vaulted ceiling but would have lowered the slope of the internal ceiling just a little bit. Carpentry would be 3-4 man days.
You should do a vaulted ceiling for a garage so you can use an 9 ft car lift that would be phenomenal because most people want a lift in their garage that do mechanic work LOL
Vaulted ceilings in cold climates should be atleast R-30-R38. Should have sistered 2x8s or 2x10s to rafters for strength, straightness and proper insulation and ventilation space.
Awesome!!! Thanks for posting structural engineering topics! Would love to hear about the topic of how to underpin in a crawlspace to basement conversation. My husband and I are contemplating such an endeavor, family is growing and we feel we need the space.
Unless you are willing to shell out some serious $$$$, looking for a home that fits what you need might be a better idea and way less of a headache. I am a structural engineer, and although I have personally never designed a conversion from a crawlspace to a basement, I can tell you that anytime you deal with the foundation, the smallest mistake can cost tens of thousands of dollars in damage. I have designed several foundation repairs and I can tell you right now, they are always a nightmare for the homeowner and they usually require engineering and permits to get done.
I think that type of endeavor requires living in a house that can support the investment it takes to do such a thing. Where do you live?
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY We live in rural North Georgia, beautiful homestead on 5 acres. Don't want to sell bc It's kind of a dream home, we can do without a full basement, but at minimum need some sort of cellar, (I can't eat commercial food due to bad food allergies) storm shelter would be nice. Would love to move the water heater by moving it underneath. Tankless makes sense if you have propane, but not if you don't kill o watt wise. Not really a good location to dig a root cellar due to powerline easement, septic tank and pasture locations.
Of course, now that I think about it... It seems too grandiose rather than practical. We could really use a garage and that would alleviate some storage issues like gardening supplies. We have yard space for that. It would be cool though to have a video on foundations in general, how they are supposed to be built, what can go wrong and why, stories on the topic whether successful or unsuccessful. I just love learning and love your videos! Plus I love Canadians bc I lived in Ontario for a few years in the 90's. ❤️
We are thinking about raising the ceiling in our master. It's all very valuable, but possibly the best, smartest and time/money efficient information/instruction, is conveyed in this video beginning at 23:36 Bravo!
Here in Tn, we do r-30 in the ceilings.
49 in MT unless you have exterior continuous.
I haven't finished watching but I would've done a few things differently like cutting the nails between the corner board and the sheathing. I also would've built up the top plate to match the thickness of the original plate and lapped it with the existing top plate rather than cutting it square. A taut string-line, wedging a temporary board to straighten the rafters, and sister a board to both keep it straight and add depth for insulation is what I've done before. A knee wall could beef-up the structure as well.
at 7:15 watch the nail go through the electrical box
Mitchell Sohm good thing he left a service loop on the Romex !
You are awesome sir! This stuff helps many who can’t afford a new home
i have seen this engineer before. has he been on other youtubers videos?
E: nevermind. he was on your older video.
Cheers, !
I came across a bunch of your videos and I always said if he didn't talk too much it would have been more fun to watch your videos but the problem here is that for not listening to you I made the biggest mistake in a renovation which it took me to go back to some of your videos where you were talking to much and get all that information I needed it thank you so much you got amazing videos God bless you and your family
That's why he's doing this as an educator. Most people are going to need both audible and visual modes of learning
Nice job showing how to tie into old stuff instead of shoving down our throat that we need to completely tear down everything and install this brand new MAke it Left approved engineered whatever. Only thing is I would personally not be comfortable with leaving damaged/rot old wood patched up in there.
the exterior boards will be changed out when we redo the siding on that wall next spring. cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Ahh, excellent, must've missed that detail.
absolutly, all the people i know would scrap the thing. my dad and i repair and when it's finish, it's probably more solid because we replace what is rotten but we keep old 2-by or 3by (true, not nominal) or even solid square log that were use in the beginning of the 19th... so we do with a fraction of the cost, no pro builder would do it cause when you give them a contract, they give you the price of the material, + the time + profit. What you don't know is that because of volume, they have a better price for material than what they sell you (your bill is often what the company charge you and NOT what they paid). So they do the money twice, with the profit that you negotiate AND with the material. This is why, when something is rotten, you heard : «boss, i found some money»... With the «problem» usually the plan is to demolish and put new... material (then you pay the engineer, the architect, all the expert)... People don'T know that you can fix a house with hydrolic, concrete bag, 6x6 post, and 2x 10 ... to repairs beam... when your beam are OK, than you can do what you want, as long as you understand the code...
I'm looking to tackle a similar project! My 70 yr old house has ceiling joists and roof rafters... we are wanting to demo the the joists and replace them with collar ties. Doing so will (on paper) kill 2 birds with one stone. It'll allow us to demo a wall that is currently supporting the joists, and it'll open up the space with a much taller ceiling! Seeing your progress gets me excited to start!
I hope you had professional advice beforte tackling that. Cheers!
engineer looks nervous looking at that ceiling LOL
just the presence of a camera around. cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I laughed when you mentioned you were asking a lot of that old wood. I couldn't concentrate on what you were saying the first half of the video because I kept scanning the wall behind you thinking "for goodness sake please rip that wood out of there!!" :)
First person to say no to an extra 6 inches xD.
Great video, We build a bit differently in South Africa, but I'm going to try and see what i can do with your knowledge sharing.
I would have laminated to the side of each rafter then you could adjust height and a strait plane would have cost more in lumber would have been a better build
There is always a better way. I am just not interested in best practices on a 140 year old house that can't retain the ROI. Cheers!
This video - has been super helpful. The chuckling is working for me. It seems a helpful attitude to have while doing your best with what you've got.