Great video - nice to see someone using the proper tools and taking their time to do the job properly. For what it's worth I've found paraffin to be excellent at removing bar tape residue (and as a general degreaser). I'm very envous of your workshop!
Very informative video but i almost physically jumped when you grabbed the bolt after using the cutoff wheel. I hope some cooldown time was edited out lol
please make a video on mechanical to hydraulic brakes in mtb.request the mtb should have a shimano brake intregated shifter before installing the hydraulic brake
This type doesn’t require an inline adjuster, it’s built into the derailleur itself. After it’s cleaned, turning the small silver screw adds tension (and you do this from top trick position until the 2 white lines line up)
Funny... I've recently "downgraded" from Shimano hydraulic to Growtac Equal mechanical disc brakes after 7 years. Got so sick of bleeding and sticky pistons!
This is such an expensive upgrade - you're not just replacing a couple of brakes, you're replacing the brakes, a $200+ pair of shifters, all of the brake cabling, and likely your gear cabling too, unless you have nearly-new gear cables already. I feel you do this only when you have broken or damaged brifters and need to replace them anyway, otherwise just upgrade to cable-actuated hydraulic calipers like the TRP HyRd, or just switch to dual-piston mechanicals like Spyres and use soft-compound pads to get more braking power if that's your reason for wanting a brake upgrade.
I am the customer (yes that's my Kona!) and it was well worth it! I tried to use my old parts from a previous bike and that lasted about a year...upgrade was necessary and worth every penny.
Clear, concise and to the point - never change! Subscribed and sent to all my friends.
Thanks so much! 😊
Great video - nice to see someone using the proper tools and taking their time to do the job properly.
For what it's worth I've found paraffin to be excellent at removing bar tape residue (and as a general degreaser).
I'm very envous of your workshop!
Thanks, and thanks for the tip! Will check it out 👍
Covered all the details. Good visuals.
😊🙏
Thank you! There's a lot of small steps that I feel like I would've missed without this video (like brake pad spacers!)
Glad you enjoyed! It’s a bit longer then my other videos, and I tried to include more little details like that 👍
this must be one of the hardest and most complicated upgrades to do.
Defiantly not a beginner level job!
Pull a string through the frame with the old cable. Then use the string to pull through the brake hose
Good tip!
Why not to use the old cables as guide?
Also a good idea!
I’ve done this too, 5 bikes.
😮💪
Very informative video but i almost physically jumped when you grabbed the bolt after using the cutoff wheel. I hope some cooldown time was edited out lol
Oh haha, ya I waited till it was cooled down, but thanks for noting that! The video was around 2.5hrs of footage edited down to 10min
please make a video on mechanical to hydraulic brakes in mtb.request the mtb should have a shimano brake intregated shifter before installing the hydraulic brake
Will see what I can do! If it helps, the process is very similar to what’s shown here, just slightly different shapes
With this type of front derailleur does it need to have a in line barrel adjuster? As im upgrading to 105 with a similar style de railleur
This type doesn’t require an inline adjuster, it’s built into the derailleur itself. After it’s cleaned, turning the small silver screw adds tension (and you do this from top trick position until the 2 white lines line up)
Thank you for your reply ill get on with the bike build now 👌
Excessively long brake hoses can cause poorer modulation even with SRAM Mavens .
Good tip, thanks to adding 👍
I've done it too. 4 bikes
Nice! It’s a pretty big job, good wrenching 👍
Funny... I've recently "downgraded" from Shimano hydraulic to Growtac Equal mechanical disc brakes after 7 years. Got so sick of bleeding and sticky pistons!
Definitely a lot more maintenance involved with a hydraulic system, mechanical is so much easier to maintain and adjust!
This is such an expensive upgrade - you're not just replacing a couple of brakes, you're replacing the brakes, a $200+ pair of shifters, all of the brake cabling, and likely your gear cabling too, unless you have nearly-new gear cables already.
I feel you do this only when you have broken or damaged brifters and need to replace them anyway, otherwise just upgrade to cable-actuated hydraulic calipers like the TRP HyRd, or just switch to dual-piston mechanicals like Spyres and use soft-compound pads to get more braking power if that's your reason for wanting a brake upgrade.
Ya, expensive parts + a lot of labour. I outlined a few different options (cheaper) to customer, this is what they wanted despite cost!
I am the customer (yes that's my Kona!) and it was well worth it! I tried to use my old parts from a previous bike and that lasted about a year...upgrade was necessary and worth every penny.