I'm so happy that TH-cam exists to be an archive of the brains of master technicians like this. This guy sounded like an expert 15 seconds into this video.
You know what's crazy, I've built maybe 500 axles for rock bouncers and mud trucks and I never heard of bearing brilling. Even when you think you know everything, there's always something to learn!
Thank you for warning about bearing brinelling. My mom's car has had one particular bearing replaced multiple times and I couldn't figure out why. It was because of the mechanic using an impact on the spindle nut.
Thank you so much for this video. I was searching through my grandfathers tool collection and found one of these. Your video was the first that came up in the search and I’m glad it was. You explain things perfectly and simply for people like me. With that being said, in your opinion, with that 10%-20% loss in there, what would someone do to counteract it? I know it seems simple at first, just add to your input, but is it that simple? Or does it really depend on the application? Just curious about that one aspect. Thanks again for the video!!
I would have loved to see a demo of that tool. Other torque multipliers have a “foot” that creates torque from pushing on a reaction point. Does this version not require a reaction point? Or are you expected to be able to hold 1,000 ft-lbs with your hand?
@@WeberAuto Come on, man! For a university professor, you ought to know basic physics and force balancing. To apply 1000 ft-lbs, you supply 250 ft-lbs with the handheld ratchet and rest the torque multiplier bar against the ground or frame of the car where it will generate 750 ft-lbs more. It won't work if you just have the torque multiplier floating.
Great for torque angle spec like on a crank bolt! Just remember to support the head and to not over tighten! YOU WILL SNAP VERY LARGE BOLTS AND FASTNERS VERY EASILY!
Would something like this work with a battery drill/impact tool? I'm looking for some gear reduction to operate a jack up and down (instead of using a hand crank) since I don't think a drill would be enough itself directly on this particular jack... wondering if the head of this torque multiplier supports it. Much cheaper alternative than having to wire or plumb in electric/hyd motors on a piece of equipment.
For large fasteners that's not an issue. Most precise torque application is for "torque matching" patterns of fasteners as on cylinder heads, aircraft gear box flanges (I'm also a jet mech) etc. If in doubt torque to the middle of the specified torque range. Heavy equipment mechanics are major torque multiplier users but I love them for Harley compensator nuts because they offer control no other method does and do not do rude things to crankshaft bearings or crankpins when breaking torque for removal.
@@Comm0ut This, I'm a forklift mechanic I use one fairly frequently. When you get into torquing big fasteners on heavy equipment the specifications in the manual are a fairly wide spread. A lug nut for example will be have torque spec with a range of say 350-450 ft/ibs which is hardly precise. So much more convenient using a small 18" 1/2 torque wrench and a multipier than a great big 6ft long 3/4" drive torque wrench.
The guts look kind of like the end of a splined rod, the locking comes from an arm that fits into the splines, then skips over the splines when you swing it the other way.
I like those torque multipliers, but some of them are very pricey. Right now, all I use is a good sized 3/4 breaker bar with some of my weight behind it.
I'm just a school bus tire changer but I would think you guys would have a full blown air or cordless torque multiplier, but if that actually works for you then that's fine, I'll just think twice about buying a used one on eBay.
What do you do then? Just brace it against another part of the vehicle? What if there isn’t a convenient point to brace against? Could one theoretically use a very long, strong cheater pipe?
@@Fixitvincent81 Yes I would think you’d have to hold all of it. Since making this comment I purchased one and I don’t see how you could possibly hold the reaction arm. The whole principle of operation is that it uses some rigid part of the structure to push against. If you could hold enough torque with your arm, you could simply turn the nut conventionally.
I wish I could answer this question, I was lucky enough to take a little tour of a multiplier distributor near me and they had shelves of specialty reaction arms, most costing as much as this tool shown,and they all had one thing in common, they needed something to lean aganst, a nut,a hole, a long arm to clamp or weld something to. (exception of a special toothed washer)(HYTORC)
@5:07. You mention 400 ft lbs - 80 ft lbs for the 20% loss but that math is incorrect. The correct way would to do 400 / 1.2 (which is 20%) you would get 333 ft lbs.
If you're not strong enough to tighten it without the multiplier, you're not strong enough to hold the multiplier while you ratchet it... They are made to brace against something stationary; a frame rail, the ground, I've even seen guys drill a hole in the end of the handle for a clevis and chain to hold them down. Keep studying bud, and you'll be a real mechanic one day!
Actually they are quite easy to use with proper training. Even a weak old wanna-be mechanic in a wheelchair can use one to crush a pinion crush sleeve at over 350 ft-lbs (without an impact gun). No chain needed. see th-cam.com/video/0DQPJpJ7xvU/w-d-xo.htmlh36m12s
I just took a look at the video you linked^ above. I'm finishing my first Diff rebuild Dana model 35. It took 4 crush sleeves it calls for 10-13 in-lbs pinion preload. I got it at 12 in-lbs on the 4th try. Thank you very much for taking the time to make these videos
Carbon FWB the multiplier is the same as using a pair of ratchets that are 3x (or whatever ratio) longer, so if you couldn't tighten it with the longer virtual ratchets then you can't use the multiplier.
Carbon FWB. Maybe you need to understand how a planetary gear set works before you go and try to make yourself sound like you know everything. Since you already know how to use TH-cam from the looks of it, just go to the search bar and type "planetary gear" and I'm sure you'll figure it out from there.... FYI before being a smartass, make sure you know what you're talking about or you just look like a dumbass...
I'm so happy that TH-cam exists to be an archive of the brains of master technicians like this. This guy sounded like an expert 15 seconds into this video.
He is an expert and he also sounds sick and tired of dealing with seized fasteners.
I use those to loosen center lock wheels on the porsche GT3!!! It makes it easy and less chance of scratching the 300k+ car with a breaker bar!!!
You know what's crazy, I've built maybe 500 axles for rock bouncers and mud trucks and I never heard of bearing brilling. Even when you think you know everything, there's always something to learn!
Thank you for this instruction it cleared up some questions I had.
Or for the loss you could work on the basis of it being 3.2 to 1 when determining input torque.
Thank you for warning about bearing brinelling. My mom's car has had one particular bearing replaced multiple times and I couldn't figure out why. It was because of the mechanic using an impact on the spindle nut.
That will do it! Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback, it is a critical measurement and setting if you want a long lasting axle.
I just learned something, thanks!
Every Harley mechanic should have one!. I can remove compensator nuts slathered in red Loctite using one hand with perfect control.
Didn't know what brinelling was and now I learned something today so for that I thank you
i hate to imagine how much snapon would charge for that tool...
Your first born :lol:
i own that same exact tool and got it on ebay for $600 and use it almost every day
Probably less than a ruined differential...torcUP, Norbar, ALKITRONIC, Proto, protorqe tool, RAD...Harbor Freight..you have few choices.
Thank you so much for this video. I was searching through my grandfathers tool collection and found one of these. Your video was the first that came up in the search and I’m glad it was. You explain things perfectly and simply for people like me. With that being said, in your opinion, with that 10%-20% loss in there, what would someone do to counteract it? I know it seems simple at first, just add to your input, but is it that simple? Or does it really depend on the application? Just curious about that one aspect. Thanks again for the video!!
Great video!! keep up the good stuff man.
Appreciate it!
I would have loved to see a demo of that tool. Other torque multipliers have a “foot” that creates torque from pushing on a reaction point. Does this version not require a reaction point? Or are you expected to be able to hold 1,000 ft-lbs with your hand?
You only have to hold up to 250 ft-lbs with your hand. The same torque you are applying, There is actually a tool to hold it too. Thanks for watching
@@WeberAuto Come on, man! For a university professor, you ought to know basic physics and force balancing. To apply 1000 ft-lbs, you supply 250 ft-lbs with the handheld ratchet and rest the torque multiplier bar against the ground or frame of the car where it will generate 750 ft-lbs more. It won't work if you just have the torque multiplier floating.
@@charvakkarpe Thanks for confirming this. It wasn't making sense to me if the torque multiplier bar had to be held.
Superb.
Thank you
Excellent explanation. Thank you.
Thanks for watching
Great for torque angle spec like on a crank bolt! Just remember to support the head and to not over tighten! YOU WILL SNAP VERY LARGE BOLTS AND FASTNERS VERY EASILY!
Wouldn't the full torque be transferred to the main bar of the torque multiplier?
Can you make a video about brinelling and impact guns? I couldnt find anything about this online.
my question is what should I do to unlock my automatic transmission from my Subaru Frontier
Wonderful QUIET !
Great job Sir, love your vise in video,
Would something like this work with a battery drill/impact tool? I'm looking for some gear reduction to operate a jack up and down (instead of using a hand crank) since I don't think a drill would be enough itself directly on this particular jack... wondering if the head of this torque multiplier supports it. Much cheaper alternative than having to wire or plumb in electric/hyd motors on a piece of equipment.
Curious also. I imagine the impact will damage internals as the gears are not designed to handle such harsh impacts. Drill I'd have thought is okay.
I'm a total novice but this was so clear THANKS 😁
We’ve come a longways Dr
Look at the Ratchet helper, it is 1/2" in and out and low cost too.
The torque multiplier is 1/2" in and 3/4" out. I guess I do not understand what you are saying.
@@WeberAuto I realize this is an old video but this is what he referred to: www.amazon.com/Ratchet-Helper-Multiplier-Reversible-Included/dp/B01CZ23MNC
Fantastic video, very well made.
Where do you get it how much
This one is Snap-On, but I am pretty sure there are other sources
@@WeberAuto i found one northern tool with a ratchet 212 its for someone else's project so I haven't rushed to buy it for them
it makes sense intuitively that you can't do it completely within one bar and head, but also I don't know why.
With the 10-20% loss how do you check for accuracy? Seems like you really would have no way of knowing what you torqued to.
For large fasteners that's not an issue. Most precise torque application is for "torque matching" patterns of fasteners as on cylinder heads, aircraft gear box flanges (I'm also a jet mech) etc. If in doubt torque to the middle of the specified torque range. Heavy equipment mechanics are major torque multiplier users but I love them for Harley compensator nuts because they offer control no other method does and do not do rude things to crankshaft bearings or crankpins when breaking torque for removal.
@@Comm0ut This, I'm a forklift mechanic I use one fairly frequently. When you get into torquing big fasteners on heavy equipment the specifications in the manual are a fairly wide spread.
A lug nut for example will be have torque spec with a range of say 350-450 ft/ibs which is hardly precise.
So much more convenient using a small 18" 1/2 torque wrench and a multipier than a great big 6ft long 3/4" drive torque wrench.
What is the mechanism inside a ratcheting socket wrench ?
I do not know
It's a planetary gear set. The guy said it three times, at least.
The guts look kind of like the end of a splined rod, the locking comes from an arm that fits into the splines, then skips over the splines when you swing it the other way.
But, what tool to buy?
I like those torque multipliers, but some of them are very pricey. Right now, all I use is a good sized 3/4 breaker bar with some of my weight behind it.
That's a big one!
lol we use these with 1” guns at work for excavator counterweights
I'm just a school bus tire changer but I would think you guys would have a full blown air or cordless torque multiplier, but if that actually works for you then that's fine, I'll just think twice about buying a used one on eBay.
with that torque multiplier let the ground get in the way if possible.
you know your stuff, thank you ...
Thank you!
Manual states torques @ 3.4 times
Thank you, yes, I state that at 4:14 when talking about the warning label. Up to a 20% loss from the 4.0:1 ratio
Never hold onto the reaction arm of the torque multiplier.
What do you do then? Just brace it against another part of the vehicle? What if there isn’t a convenient point to brace against? Could one theoretically use a very long, strong cheater pipe?
When you hold the reaction arm yourselves, then you still have to deliver a fair amount of the output torque right?
@@Fixitvincent81 Yes I would think you’d have to hold all of it. Since making this comment I purchased one and I don’t see how you could possibly hold the reaction arm. The whole principle of operation is that it uses some rigid part of the structure to push against. If you could hold enough torque with your arm, you could simply turn the nut conventionally.
I wish I could answer this question, I was lucky enough to take a little tour of a multiplier distributor near me and they had shelves of specialty reaction arms, most costing as much as this tool shown,and they all had one thing in common, they needed something to lean aganst, a nut,a hole, a long arm to clamp or weld something to. (exception of a special toothed washer)(HYTORC)
LOL. i used 1/2 inch breaker bar with a jack and basically locked the pinion and weight of vehicle would crush the sleeve.
ok ok im done he said that handle is 4 ft i cant watch this anymore. That handle is 2 ft. leaving this video
that 3 foot long ratchet is only 18 inches
I just tried explaining to my girlfriend what a torque multiplier is for and she didn't get it and started crying.
Is that save to use torque multiplier with air impact?
No it will mess it up
I was wondering what happened to this dude after being shot by Tuco Salamanca
Just use a scaffold bar! :P
Perhaps, if you measure it and do the math.
Get yourself a Swench.
i want my time back
@5:07. You mention 400 ft lbs - 80 ft lbs for the 20% loss but that math is incorrect. The correct way would to do 400 / 1.2 (which is 20%) you would get 333 ft lbs.
socratic.org/questions/20-of-400-is-what-number
20% = .2 x 400 = 320.
@@Ihavetruth22 No: The equation is: 400 - (.20 x 400) = 320
If you're not strong enough to tighten it without the multiplier, you're not strong enough to hold the multiplier while you ratchet it...
They are made to brace against something stationary; a frame rail, the ground, I've even seen guys drill a hole in the end of the handle for a clevis and chain to hold them down.
Keep studying bud, and you'll be a real mechanic one day!
Actually they are quite easy to use with proper training. Even a weak old wanna-be mechanic in a wheelchair can use one to crush a pinion crush sleeve at over 350 ft-lbs (without an impact gun). No chain needed. see th-cam.com/video/0DQPJpJ7xvU/w-d-xo.htmlh36m12s
I just took a look at the video you linked^ above. I'm finishing my first Diff rebuild Dana model 35.
It took 4 crush sleeves it calls for 10-13 in-lbs pinion preload. I got it at 12 in-lbs on the 4th try.
Thank you very much for taking the time to make these videos
WeberAuto
Damn, like whoa.
Carbon FWB the multiplier is the same as using a pair of ratchets that are 3x (or whatever ratio) longer, so if you couldn't tighten it with the longer virtual ratchets then you can't use the multiplier.
Carbon FWB. Maybe you need to understand how a planetary gear set works before you go and try to make yourself sound like you know everything.
Since you already know how to use TH-cam from the looks of it, just go to the search bar and type "planetary gear" and I'm sure you'll figure it out from there....
FYI before being a smartass, make sure you know what you're talking about or you just look like a dumbass...