Holy Sh#t that is a light frame! The HMX Scott Scale is around 850g with HMF carbon version around 1100g. Not sure I would go near any drops on that thing.
Hope 180mm comes in at 159g each not 160g for the pair, the wheelset also comes in 350g heavier than you have stated, this is a 7kg plus bike, still light but you can see that he never actually lifts the front wheel of the bike off the floor to give the true weight.
I actually was riding my bike in Austria a few weeks ago up a gravel climb to around 1900 meters above sea level and met a guy who had such a mountainbike. It was the brand of a former mtb world champ who now builds these fancy ass bikes. With pedals and bottle cage it weighed just 6.8 kg, absolute madness
@@nicholasvillanueva7469 i dont remember😂 but it looked absolutely sick, the mfer outclimbed me with that shit, i would have needed 40 watts more for the weight difference😂😂
I don't think it's great for the stem bolts to tighten one first then the other, should they not be evenly tightened? Same goes with the handlebar clamp and rotor bolts with the power drill! Then the cassette, not even making sure the lockring was straight before cranking it down. Very hard to watch I must say from a bike mechanic point of view.
this video is for entertainment purposes, who knows what was cut when, we don't even know if that bike was to be used in that configuration... but yeah, there are a few bolt tightening procedures to be followed in assembling mechanical stuffs.
Here I am with this dilemma - should I pay a metric fuckton of money for a bike that's 10 kg lighter than mine... or keep riding my heavy bike until I take more than 10kg of weight off myself for free achieving pretty much the same result. Decisions, decisions....
@@mikek9297 Doesn't work that way. 10kg lighter bike is like night and day difference. Where as 10kg on yourself is only just noticeable. It's significantly more difficult to try and bunny hop a 25kg ebike than it with a 16kg mountainibike. But 80 to 90kg bodyweight not a lot of difference.
@@rawmancemtb I'm working with 115kg of my own weight and a bike that's somewhere between 15-16kg without extra equipment... a hardtail, entry-level XC back from 2009. Can't bunny hop it, can't do a proper wheelie. I'm thinking I better start with me and see if I can get somewhere before I start pumping coin into the bike.
@@mikek9297 same man,bought myself an mtb alloy frame (quite heavy) and with bodyweight same like yours. usually ride ride the bike like a roadbike on the road lol
These are almost road tires though if you base on continental's site claimed scores based on terrains. I reckon it's closer to 7kg if you put on proper XC tires. But this is still very impressive.
@@tomaszosipiak3589 2.2 is old school by today's standard, but the real crime here is the lack of tread on those tires. That thing will slip like crazy on anything other that pure, clean sandstone or tarmac. Get on some loose dirt, and this bike becomes really scary to ride. Not to mention the lack of puncture protection.
It is just shimano XTR with some Hope rotors if I were to guess. And is it really that hard to find carbon wheels? Or seatposts? Or handlebars? These questions are pretty funny.
Guys, he's not using an impact driver. He's using a clutched drill which is set to a very low number, so it's barely putting through any torque once the bolts are in. He also has what looks like a star bit on there so cam-outs are extremely low chance and he isn't going to strip any threads with the clutch set so low. He probably torqued it manually and then went back and fourth with the drill adjusting the clutch until it put fourth a good amount to get the bolt in there but not fully tightened. I do the same thing with my RC car - I know that a 5 on my Makita cordless will get my wheel nuts as snug as I would do with a wrench.
That's what I do. Great for speed. Set the drill clutch to 2 so it doesn't over tighten. Use the drill to send all the bolts in quickly then torque them up, simples...
I like how you attach one disc rotor carefully to torque and the other one just winging it with the clutched screwdriver :) Also, I didn't see you put in any hydraulic fluid, so either that wasn't filmed because it's boring or you didn't do it yet in which case add another 200g to that weight total.
If they are factory bled and you are careful you don't need to bleed after removing/cutting/refitting the hose. You may just need to do a small top up if anything.
I don't often say this and don't want to be condescending, but with components like these please use your torque wrench carefully! You're not holding it right (your forearm should be perpendicular to the wrench to get an accurate torque reading) and you're fully torqueing the first bolt before you even tighten the others! Instead, you should gradually tighten each bolt (say 2Nm, then 3Nm, then the final torque), otherwise you may put a pressure point on the bars (which can fracture the carbon) and leave it undertightened once the others are done (if you try tightening it again the first bolt won't click the wrench, when the 4th will). Don't get me wrong this is a beautiful bike build, I'm just saying this before you learn the hard way as I have before! Edit: not to mention the cordless drill!!! Have fun stripping the hub threads and bolt heads
And "double checking" the torque!! Just one click please. I was picking holed in his technique throughout the vid. Too much grease in some places and no grease in others!
@@franciss2529 but not the double click method. By all means come back to it for a check but click then click again has been proven to way over torque bolts. I have colleagues who have done studies.
I have a 7kg road bike, and I get scared I'm gonna break something every time I cross railroad tracks. Not sure I'd be willing to ride this in the woods.
Bicicleta de carretera año 94 fibra carbono y titanio , campagnolo record más de 160km y aún no se ha roto!! Pero me fiaría de las de hoy ??????? No lo sé!!
A lot of this bike is closer to a road build than a machine for the trails, but those tires are ridiculous. There has to be a point where you stop worrying about weight and build something fit for purpose. I don’t see this as a mountain bike, just related, as it has a suspension fork.
Not to be that guy but: 0:42 - Aluminum seatpost? Could have saved weight. 1:38 - 180mm rotor is just not necessary for an ultralight XC race bike, save the weight of the rotor and the adapter. 1:47 - Bolt is NOT long enough, you can see it only engages 3-4 threads. 2:24 - SO much grease. Not a problem just kinda gross. 3:53 - I know some stems require a spacer above, but 10mm? No thank you. 6:32 - The first of a few things that really should have been torque wrenched. 6:42 - For the sake of your shifter, I hope you put the cap back on the cable access hole. 7:00 - I know this is partially the fault of the frame, but routing the shift cable on the drive side will almost always cause the cable to wear down the frame in front of the cable entry port. Could have used frame protection tape or rubber protector on the cable. 7:17 - Again, of all the things NOT to use a torque wrench on. 7:38 - Grease ALL OVER the spindle, when it's only really needed on the bearing races. 8:31 - I hope you properly set the preload of the crankset off camera... 9:00 - He's not actually gonna put that cable in there without a ferrule is he? 9:04 - Oh god he did. 9:32 - Might just be me, but I'll only cut the cable once I have the shifting indexed. Makes it much easier to move it around and not have to rely on the barrel adjuster. 11:14 - 6mm spacer under the disc brake rotor tells me that you're using a wheelset with a non-boost 142mm hub, with different endcaps to fit 148mm. I hope you've dished the wheel correctly to account for that, but also why not just use a proper boost wheelset? 12:05 - Of all the things not to grease, the thru axle is the most annoying. 12:16 - This is one of the more dangerous things not to use a torque wrench on. 13:14 - I'm perfectly fine driving in rotor bolts with power tools, but to set the clutch THAT low and not torque check them like you did on the rear ones? Ouch. 13:30 - Again, 'tight enough' is not a torque spec on a race bike's thru axle. 14:16 - I know this is more of a glamour video instead of an educational one, but to show all these steps and not show properly setting the derailleur limits, that's a bit weird. Also, turn the clutch on. 14:48 - Please put bar end plugs? Don't want to get core sampled. 15:34 - Purely cosmetic, but holy crap all that effort on the build just to put the sticker on crooked. 16:02 - Weighs ridiculously expensive bike on the cheapest, lowest precision luggage scale I've ever seen. 16:15 - Forgot the compression nut cover on the brake lever, I think it's sitting down where the brake hose enters the frame.
Cassette bolt got striped by not running a few treads by hand first. Grease is always good, specially for the next guy to service it. But the cassette bolt part is mind boggling on such a project.
I’ve one Aora and is an awesome bike, the best bike I’ve ever ride. Made and handcrafted in Spain, only 50 bikes per year, per model, the best components and the best engineer
It can be lighter. Replace all bolts for titanium and aluminium. Replace cables from 1.2mm to 1mm. Cut cables, remove paint and coat, drill some parts of groupset, maybe will be better to use sram groupset. You can use their x-dome technology cassette. Xd hubnut lighter. So I think its possible to remove 500 grams from bike. Its very presumptuously call this bike lightest.
I had the passion of building a light MTB about 3 years ago and I achieved an 8kg bike, pedals included. Weighting a bike without pedals is bullshit, just like the manufacturer's declared weights of many bike parts. This clip would be really useful if it would list each part and it's weight and price
Lol! It's like in the motorcycle manufacturer data sheets, so called "dry weight" to impress the buyers that they build an adventure bike close to 200kg margin, 'cos we want them to be light as possible. :D
read my comment above. He weighed it without getting the front wheel completely offthe ground. The wheel rolled but didnt lift up. slow mo the frames and stop them several times and you'll se what Im talking about.
This double torque wrench clicking drives me insane 😀 The torque only "clicks" correctly when reaching it from a constant tightening motion, not from standstill
Go watch dangerholm. if you don't really know him than don't write any comments. He even made a downhillbike🤦 And cross country both hardtail and fullsuspension. His gravel bike is just his newest project
@@noaberton3141 dangerholm makes one-off bikes, not production like unno even if its just 50 units. And take in mind the parts used in this build and in dangerholm build also affect the weight
Now that is one pretty bike. LOL, 20 years ago I would have given a body part to own that beautiful machine. And now at 40 suspension and comfort are a little more important.. But still that is a work of art. Great video man. 👍👍👍
@@Haytabike I am still an avid biker. I just an probably over the weight limit on that one. I am just around 300 lbs (145 kg approx) these days. So I would Love to take that beauty for a gentle and fast ride, but out of respect keeping those wheels on the ground.. Don’t need to be breaking what ever that is worth. I got an Older Norco Enduro type bike that around LOL.. yup 20 Kilos, so over twice your bike. Haha, but at least I can’t break it easily. You have a great weekend. Everyone else looking forward to summer, I know I am.
Essentially a gravel bike. Especially with those tires. Now that Rockshox introduced front forks specifically designed for gravel bikes I feel like this bike and modern gravel bikes are becoming one. The big difference of course being the drop bars. This bike is made for those light XC trails.
Could've saved at least 20 grams more with going easier on the grease, cutting down the fork, removing the topcap after tightening stem bolts, stripping the paint off the lowers and a couple of other things
Hello to every1! Just wanted to add my bit. Finally, a guy who wears gloves when putting together one of the most beautiful inventions to ever grace the world.
Easy to do 6.5 with pedals. I love that Aora frame, it has many details. But the rotor discs ... Ai2 cheap and light, the crank set, the brakes i would chage for the lightest disc brakes: TR¡CKSTUFF piccola. Tires ... that are not for XC use. Fork ... I like it because works fine so for me it is OK as the wheel set. Screws in Ti or alu. and some more details like Darimo or Gemini stem, handlebar and seat post. That will give enough room for pedals, better tires and it would be 6.5 again or even less.
Or integrated cockpit, a lightweight casette like the Garbaruk 10-48 12 speed one, not to mention the 32 spoke wheels, even over 15 years ago there were 24 spoke ones in lightweight MTBs...
Yea, tires aren't the place to be saving weight. Saving 300g by using the lightest tires imaginable might gain you 30 seconds over a 2 hour race from a power/weight perspective, but you'll be slipping on technical climbs, and going slow on downhills. This is why I run light trail tires on my XC bike. Also, not having pedals on the bike when weighing it is cheating.
Because that's not the purpose of the build. It's built to be light, not tough. It's most likely just done for the video but will have its parts actually swapped out for actual use. Or maybe it was never intended to be used. Who knows. Those are all irrelevant. It's a video about a bike being built light. Title didn't lie. But I'm also certain it'll do fine, I've seen bikes in worse conditions to take on anything...yet it's there. Doing things.
@@paddor Thats what you get buying cheap chinese knock off carbon parts, these TUNE parts are def up for the task - these will not break, but then they are quite expensive as well.
It also needs plastic (or metal) caps on the ends of the housing to prevent corrosion and damage from the cable pulling unevenly. But that's the least of this build's problems.
You mean you dont enjoy watching his trained thumb action that could be done without thumb 10x faster? Cmon, its a show, doesnt matter he does basic error while screwing on stem, deraileur line is a scrap metal before the bike is even built, and drivechain sounds like it was sitting on floor of the lake for a year, as long as the parts are new, shiny and light.
The incorrect use of the torque wrench makes me crazy. Why use one in the first place, if you re-tighten every bolt after tightening it with the correct torque?
A fox 32 stepcast would also have saved an additional 300 grams, going with a slightly heavier tire and tubules would have been better, sram xx1 axs would have saved a couple, trickstuf picolo would have saved a couple, add titanium pedals and a carbon bottle cage and the total could be around 6kg
Valla tr de unno göreceğimi düşünmezdim companentlerde tune olunca tadından yenmiyor. Xtr sette candır. Sram setleride çok severim ama derdi çok bakımı zor anlayan adam bulmak zor kronik sorunları var. Ama shimano öylemi candır can. Bir sram level tl fren setim vardı, dot yağından dolayı süreki sıcak havalarda piston şişiriyor çok uğraştırıcıydı. Shimano deore xt set aldım gençleştim resmen bu kadar mı farkeder :D
As a guy that has built..... naah, not much, maybe 10 bikes, I appreciate how well the video is made (reading some of the comments - the bike itself isn't necesserily very "well" made or built, or built with a high level of "attention to detail" - these are all just standard procedures required to make your bike last, and make your bike easy and reasonable to take apart once required, except for torque-wrenching everything, which is purely theatrical). That said, I've never been a weight weenie, and hold the belief that sometimes weight-weenying can be your enemy, esp. in MTB/XC - but if this bike goes on the youtube as the "superlight MTB" - and if someone goes the extra mile to make the bike extremely light, more weight shedding (even up to 200-300 grams) could be done, without reducing the functionality/capability. Here there's focus on light, expensive TUNE parts, very light CF frame, comparatively light SID fork, reasonably light XTR disc brakes - all new, off-the shelf parts. However, on one of my bikes I've been using XTR v-brakes for abt. 10 years, and there are absolutely no problems with them, also if compared with good disc brakes. They would make this set-up lighter, along with a straight (not tapered) older SID fork (abt. 1200 grams), along with QR, not thru-axle. The frame set-up itself isn't the lightest, using lots of excessive cable tubing inside the frame, instead of cable-stops throughout the bike, leaving the tubing to a minimum. Also, the tapered, oversized head tube is bigger than straight one, ie - heavier. Also - threading in steel screws in aluminium hub for the front DB with a powered tool is wrong in my opinion (high risk of cross-threading/damage). Apart from all that, a well-made video, keep up the work and greetings from Latvia.
Something feels fishy hear. There is no way that is 6.5 kg bike. Without pedals it must have at least 200-300g more, perhaps even as much as 7kg (depending on the tolerances).🤔
@@saribrahim1058 seri üretim değil sınırlı sayıda üretim yapıyorlar, butik bi marka. güvenilmeyecek bir şey yok ortada abi. istersen biraz arat internette markayı
@@richardlocke3375 What Ive done with my road bikes with a carbon steerer is machine a pulley section 1.0 - 1.5 mm wall with about 5 degree of taper going into the middle rib, a central boss tapped to take the tension screw. Then as each one was machined to the Dia of the steerer ID and length was a bit shorter than the stem height I bonded it in with epoxy. Its strong enough to tension the head bearings and a good enough fit to prevent steerer tube collapse of damage.
Честно говоря сложно поверить что байк даже главный может весить 6.5 учитывая что у шоссейных велосипедов но нормам UCI минимальный вес у шоссейного велосипеда не должен быть менее 6.2кг . Да и там тоже все карбон и покрышки лёгкие и спереди нет тяжёлой вилки. Выглядит на какой то обмен, но если это и вправду так то моё уважение.
9:00 You didnt put a shifter cable endcap. The steel wires inside the housing cable will not seat correctly, its not sealed from dirt and shifting performance will be shite quite soon.
When he weighted the bike the front wheel stayed on the ground.I just weighed my full suspension the same way and it weighs 3kg with huge mud grip tyres on it.
руль хлипкий сразу под замену , седло тоже не удобное без анатомического отверстия, грипсы тоже фуфло менять . Колеса и рама нормального райдера под 100 кг не выдержат . вел для велосипедистов в весе пера. )) В общем макет какой то
Go easy on the grease buddy, your gonna make that bike weigh an extra half gram.
He really didn’t put a lot of grease..
@@0ShortsKing0 I know was just being sarcastic.
he didnt put grease on the spline core, and also the rear brake caliper use extensor so there you could scrap some grams
same with stickers
@@agarcia-a and use non floating rotors
No pedals - no medals ! :)
Industry standard practice.
@@SecwetGwiwer standard practice which they usually "forget" to mention.
u're wrong, I don't remamber what year it was but someone won the downhill competiion with broken chain. so as we see no pedals can bring gold too
@@TheOutlander82 Aaron Gwin at Leogang in 2015
Complete bikes weights are always without pedals.
I did not believe at first, and then listed. I am impressed.
Frame Unno aora = 690g
Fork Sid = 1315g
Seatpost Tune = 200g
Stem Tune = 120g
Saddle Tune = 105g
Handlbar ~ 120g
Wheelset ~ 1000g
Tire Continental pair ~ 910g
Crank E13= 345g
Chain ring ~ 60g
Brake rotor Hope pair = 160g
Brake xtr pair = 395g
Shifter Xtr = 117g
Rear derailleurr Xtr = 222g
Casette Xtr = 363g
Chain Xtr = 242g
Botombraket and headset and other ~ 150g
Grips @esi ~ 50g
Total = 6564g+tube+bolt+rear axel
🙏
Holy Sh#t that is a light frame! The HMX Scott Scale is around 850g with HMF carbon version around 1100g. Not sure I would go near any drops on that thing.
Hope 180mm comes in at 159g each not 160g for the pair, the wheelset also comes in 350g heavier than you have stated, this is a 7kg plus bike, still light but you can see that he never actually lifts the front wheel of the bike off the floor to give the true weight.
pedal?handlebar grip?
It's not the lightest
I actually was riding my bike in Austria a few weeks ago up a gravel climb to around 1900 meters above sea level and met a guy who had such a mountainbike. It was the brand of a former mtb world champ who now builds these fancy ass bikes. With pedals and bottle cage it weighed just 6.8 kg, absolute madness
U mean dangerholm ?
@@fjokke i was a hardtail, just looked at dangerholm bikes, but i think the guy said it was from an austrian world champ if i remember correctly
Atherton?
@@nicholasvillanueva7469 i dont remember😂 but it looked absolutely sick, the mfer outclimbed me with that shit, i would have needed 40 watts more for the weight difference😂😂
yes. but would you ride it ?
I for sure no, imagine that thing landing on rocks at 30 mph, it would turn straight into pieces :))))))
I don't think it's great for the stem bolts to tighten one first then the other, should they not be evenly tightened? Same goes with the handlebar clamp and rotor bolts with the power drill! Then the cassette, not even making sure the lockring was straight before cranking it down. Very hard to watch I must say from a bike mechanic point of view.
I agree. I am WAY moe careful when I mount my bikes
i don't understand why he uses a torque wrench on the rear disc and then is like "ah fk it" for the front and uses the drill.
this video is for entertainment purposes, who knows what was cut when, we don't even know if that bike was to be used in that configuration... but yeah, there are a few bolt tightening procedures to be followed in assembling mechanical stuffs.
Was looking for this comment.@@kieron88ward
Here I am riding my 23kg dh bike everyday. I think if I rode a bike this light I'd fly away like E.T.!
Here I am with this dilemma - should I pay a metric fuckton of money for a bike that's 10 kg lighter than mine... or keep riding my heavy bike until I take more than 10kg of weight off myself for free achieving pretty much the same result. Decisions, decisions....
@@mikek9297 Doesn't work that way. 10kg lighter bike is like night and day difference. Where as 10kg on yourself is only just noticeable. It's significantly more difficult to try and bunny hop a 25kg ebike than it with a 16kg mountainibike. But 80 to 90kg bodyweight not a lot of difference.
@@rawmancemtb I'm working with 115kg of my own weight and a bike that's somewhere between 15-16kg without extra equipment... a hardtail, entry-level XC back from 2009. Can't bunny hop it, can't do a proper wheelie. I'm thinking I better start with me and see if I can get somewhere before I start pumping coin into the bike.
@@mikek9297 same man,bought myself an mtb alloy frame (quite heavy) and with bodyweight same like yours. usually ride ride the bike like a roadbike on the road lol
Same here with my 16kg hardtail
These are almost road tires though if you base on continental's site claimed scores based on terrains. I reckon it's closer to 7kg if you put on proper XC tires. But this is still very impressive.
2.2 inch tires are completely fine for XC
@@tomaszosipiak3589 they are talking about the tread pattern I believe
@@tomaszosipiak3589 2.2 is old school by today's standard, but the real crime here is the lack of tread on those tires. That thing will slip like crazy on anything other that pure, clean sandstone or tarmac. Get on some loose dirt, and this bike becomes really scary to ride. Not to mention the lack of puncture protection.
And pedals
You're looking at an extra 60-70g each for Race Kings, which are definitely real XC tyres.
Please can you include a parts list breakdown for this build, I’d like to create something like this myself one day.
Exactly what I was thinking!
Frame is one of unno bikes frame. RockShox SID for suspension fork. The other things idk.
yes i plan to win the lottery aswell
It is just shimano XTR with some Hope rotors if I were to guess. And is it really that hard to find carbon wheels? Or seatposts? Or handlebars? These questions are pretty funny.
Life becoming easy for bike thief’s 😌
@@Timo.U Thieves.
If you're gonna correct someone, be sure you're not wrong.
Yesterday they steal my bike ;(
@@marcalvarez4890 Rexom Stormtv leave chat
@@diegotaiman5953 thats not good
@@baulmitfahrrad ya
Would you add component list to the description? Thanks!
All components in this video are made out of pure money.
I hope this helps.
One could say the frame is made out of gold. But no, you are not helping :)
Guys, he's not using an impact driver. He's using a clutched drill which is set to a very low number, so it's barely putting through any torque once the bolts are in. He also has what looks like a star bit on there so cam-outs are extremely low chance and he isn't going to strip any threads with the clutch set so low. He probably torqued it manually and then went back and fourth with the drill adjusting the clutch until it put fourth a good amount to get the bolt in there but not fully tightened.
I do the same thing with my RC car - I know that a 5 on my Makita cordless will get my wheel nuts as snug as I would do with a wrench.
why he doesn't use the same torque wrench on the front though? he's just showing off his tools 🤣
That's what I do. Great for speed. Set the drill clutch to 2 so it doesn't over tighten. Use the drill to send all the bolts in quickly then torque them up, simples...
I’ve used an old Bosch drill for years for putting on rotor bolts. Put them on using the 8 setting and take them off using 10.
I like how you attach one disc rotor carefully to torque and the other one just winging it with the clutched screwdriver :) Also, I didn't see you put in any hydraulic fluid, so either that wasn't filmed because it's boring or you didn't do it yet in which case add another 200g to that weight total.
Don't most brakes come factory-bled?
No way there's 200ml of that oil in the brake lines.
If they are factory bled and you are careful you don't need to bleed after removing/cutting/refitting the hose. You may just need to do a small top up if anything.
@@sabakvavilashvili8239 He pumps the forks down against the applied front brake around 15:40 there must be fluid in the front brake at least :)
I don't often say this and don't want to be condescending, but with components like these please use your torque wrench carefully! You're not holding it right (your forearm should be perpendicular to the wrench to get an accurate torque reading) and you're fully torqueing the first bolt before you even tighten the others! Instead, you should gradually tighten each bolt (say 2Nm, then 3Nm, then the final torque), otherwise you may put a pressure point on the bars (which can fracture the carbon) and leave it undertightened once the others are done (if you try tightening it again the first bolt won't click the wrench, when the 4th will). Don't get me wrong this is a beautiful bike build, I'm just saying this before you learn the hard way as I have before!
Edit: not to mention the cordless drill!!! Have fun stripping the hub threads and bolt heads
Yeah when he tightened the stem bolts to full torque and the other with nothing I immediately went to the comments.
And "double checking" the torque!! Just one click please. I was picking holed in his technique throughout the vid. Too much grease in some places and no grease in others!
@@markgambrill I think double checking the torque on the stem bolts is important, I find I can triple check before I don't see the bolt move anymore
@@markgambrill yep, always essential once you've tightened them all as it can fluctuate a bit
@@franciss2529 but not the double click method. By all means come back to it for a check but click then click again has been proven to way over torque bolts. I have colleagues who have done studies.
лучшее видео по сборке ещё и с таким прекрасным музыкальным сопровождением
I have a 7kg road bike, and I get scared I'm gonna break something every time I cross railroad tracks. Not sure I'd be willing to ride this in the woods.
Если весишь 150 кг !😂
Bicicleta de carretera año 94 fibra carbono y titanio , campagnolo record más de 160km y aún no se ha roto!!
Pero me fiaría de las de hoy ??????? No lo sé!!
A lot of this bike is closer to a road build than a machine for the trails, but those tires are ridiculous. There has to be a point where you stop worrying about weight and build something fit for purpose. I don’t see this as a mountain bike, just related, as it has a suspension fork.
5:49 copper grease on aluminum thread.
9:03 eyeliner in XTR switch without end cap.
17:23 Is this a professional mechanic for sure?
Not to be that guy but:
0:42 - Aluminum seatpost? Could have saved weight.
1:38 - 180mm rotor is just not necessary for an ultralight XC race bike, save the weight of the rotor and the adapter.
1:47 - Bolt is NOT long enough, you can see it only engages 3-4 threads.
2:24 - SO much grease. Not a problem just kinda gross.
3:53 - I know some stems require a spacer above, but 10mm? No thank you.
6:32 - The first of a few things that really should have been torque wrenched.
6:42 - For the sake of your shifter, I hope you put the cap back on the cable access hole.
7:00 - I know this is partially the fault of the frame, but routing the shift cable on the drive side will almost always cause the cable to wear down the frame in front of the cable entry port. Could have used frame protection tape or rubber protector on the cable.
7:17 - Again, of all the things NOT to use a torque wrench on.
7:38 - Grease ALL OVER the spindle, when it's only really needed on the bearing races.
8:31 - I hope you properly set the preload of the crankset off camera...
9:00 - He's not actually gonna put that cable in there without a ferrule is he?
9:04 - Oh god he did.
9:32 - Might just be me, but I'll only cut the cable once I have the shifting indexed. Makes it much easier to move it around and not have to rely on the barrel adjuster.
11:14 - 6mm spacer under the disc brake rotor tells me that you're using a wheelset with a non-boost 142mm hub, with different endcaps to fit 148mm. I hope you've dished the wheel correctly to account for that, but also why not just use a proper boost wheelset?
12:05 - Of all the things not to grease, the thru axle is the most annoying.
12:16 - This is one of the more dangerous things not to use a torque wrench on.
13:14 - I'm perfectly fine driving in rotor bolts with power tools, but to set the clutch THAT low and not torque check them like you did on the rear ones? Ouch.
13:30 - Again, 'tight enough' is not a torque spec on a race bike's thru axle.
14:16 - I know this is more of a glamour video instead of an educational one, but to show all these steps and not show properly setting the derailleur limits, that's a bit weird. Also, turn the clutch on.
14:48 - Please put bar end plugs? Don't want to get core sampled.
15:34 - Purely cosmetic, but holy crap all that effort on the build just to put the sticker on crooked.
16:02 - Weighs ridiculously expensive bike on the cheapest, lowest precision luggage scale I've ever seen.
16:15 - Forgot the compression nut cover on the brake lever, I think it's sitting down where the brake hose enters the frame.
Cassette bolt got striped by not running a few treads by hand first.
Grease is always good, specially for the next guy to service it. But the cassette bolt part is mind boggling on such a project.
It looked sketchy, but i think it came good. He started a bunch of bolts with a driver only, made me cringe.
(Cassette lock ring) shoulda started by hand yeah but it's not cross threaded; it's fine.
I’ve one Aora and is an awesome bike, the best bike I’ve ever ride. Made and handcrafted in Spain, only 50 bikes per year, per model, the best components and the best engineer
Otra opcion es la mondraker podium RR. Mucho más barata
@@albertomiragil850 o desempolvar la de la comunión
@@agarcia-a que tonterias dices? , que tiene que ver el cuadro mas ligero del mercado con una baratija de hace 20 años
ainsss, ese chaval habla de la Aora por que el cuadro del video es un Unno Aora
tu das una respuesta de mierda que no aporta nada pues yo te doy otra
@@agarcia-a de mierda no,.estoy dando otra opción al montaje de cuadro más caro.
En la misma categoría de tipo ,peso y uso
It can be lighter. Replace all bolts for titanium and aluminium. Replace cables from 1.2mm to 1mm. Cut cables, remove paint and coat, drill some parts of groupset, maybe will be better to use sram groupset. You can use their x-dome technology cassette. Xd hubnut lighter. So I think its possible to remove 500 grams from bike. Its very presumptuously call this bike lightest.
Frrr
I had the passion of building a light MTB about 3 years ago and I achieved an 8kg bike, pedals included. Weighting a bike without pedals is bullshit, just like the manufacturer's declared weights of many bike parts. This clip would be really useful if it would list each part and it's weight and price
Lol! It's like in the motorcycle manufacturer data sheets, so called "dry weight" to impress the buyers that they build an adventure bike close to 200kg margin, 'cos we want them to be light as possible. :D
read my comment above. He weighed it without getting the front wheel completely offthe ground. The wheel rolled but didnt lift up. slow mo the frames and stop them several times and you'll se what Im talking about.
Nice video. Also good, that you exposed yourself to new ideas in these comments.
This double torque wrench clicking drives me insane 😀 The torque only "clicks" correctly when reaching it from a constant tightening motion, not from standstill
In case it's not lite enough already, titanium cranks and fox step-cut Factory team issue fork would make it even lighter.
İyi ki varsın Caner ❤️
EKipmanlar ve ürünler müthiş. Tabii işçilik de :)👌👌🏼
Them: we have the lightest mtb only 6,5 kg
Dangerholm : 6,25kg
dangerholm is gravel not mtb
Go watch dangerholm. if you don't really know him than don't write any comments. He even made a downhillbike🤦 And cross country both hardtail and fullsuspension. His gravel bike is just his newest project
@@noaberton3141 dangerholm makes one-off bikes, not production like unno even if its just 50 units. And take in mind the parts used in this build and in dangerholm build also affect the weight
@@tiagoreis2906 I know but then this is not the "lightest MTB " like the title says.
@@noaberton3141 of course is clickbait to get more views
Wow 😯! Thanks for the Mtb video, i saw it for the first time.
:))
You can use trickstuff piccola brakes and ashima ai2 rotors, garbaruk cassette
but he have to paid them, if the brands o shops sponsor him....
@@joseculebrasarenas7372 what do you even try to say by that?
@@jurekgadzinowski2895 that the video is sponsorized
Now that is one pretty bike. LOL, 20 years ago I would have given a body part to own that beautiful machine.
And now at 40 suspension and comfort are a little more important.. But still that is a work of art. Great video man. 👍👍👍
Thank You :)
@@Haytabike I am still an avid biker. I just an probably over the weight limit on that one. I am just around 300 lbs (145 kg approx) these days. So I would Love to take that beauty for a gentle and fast ride, but out of respect keeping those wheels on the ground.. Don’t need to be breaking what ever that is worth. I got an Older Norco Enduro type bike that around LOL.. yup 20 Kilos, so over twice your bike.
Haha, but at least I can’t break it easily.
You have a great weekend.
Everyone else looking forward to summer, I know I am.
Essentially a gravel bike. Especially with those tires. Now that Rockshox introduced front forks specifically designed for gravel bikes I feel like this bike and modern gravel bikes are becoming one. The big difference of course being the drop bars. This bike is made for those light XC trails.
I’d send it down some rocky downhill too, seeing as it has a suspension fork. Good all rounder
@@loc9588 i dont know where you ride but its definitly not an allrounder around here
Wi-fi pedals? 😂
Great job bro 👍🏽👏🏽
Could've saved at least 20 grams more with going easier on the grease, cutting down the fork, removing the topcap after tightening stem bolts, stripping the paint off the lowers and a couple of other things
😂
Hello to every1! Just wanted to add my bit. Finally, a guy who wears gloves when putting together one of the most beautiful inventions to ever grace the world.
Dk 45 oyuncu değişlikliği 🤗
Perfect ASMR video: Heavy dude assembles lightweight bike
Koşun koşun millet Ömer hayta Mtb topluyor..!!!
Ömer hayta mi 😳
@@canersagcan6482 suç ortağı da Caner sağcan
Very cute emporium of cycle land. A best quality cycle master technology of cycle universe...
No one is riding actual MTB trails on this. Especially with the tires. This is just a gravel bike with an air fork, and flat bars.
that is called a hardtail and its typical for xc kinda stuff
@@Windows350 I know what a hardtail is. But you don’t often see tires that smooth on xc bikes or xc trails. That’s why I said “gravel bike”
@@shiftlove yeah ok
I rode years trails on those racekings. Summer and winter.
@@Windows350 you mean "no mtb"?
super! ...that means a real mountain bike - congratulations!
Nice build but the tyre lettering not being aligned with the rim lettering is sending my OCD haywire!
Ahh thanks for pointing that out, now it’s a bugging me lol!
Incredible... And there's still a few weight savings to be made.
Nice bike but I think I’ll stick with full suspension, pedals and a dropper seat for just under 10kg
Easy to do 6.5 with pedals. I love that Aora frame, it has many details. But the rotor discs ... Ai2 cheap and light, the crank set, the brakes i would chage for the lightest disc brakes: TR¡CKSTUFF piccola. Tires ... that are not for XC use. Fork ... I like it because works fine so for me it is OK as the wheel set. Screws in Ti or alu. and some more details like Darimo or Gemini stem, handlebar and seat post. That will give enough room for pedals, better tires and it would be 6.5 again or even less.
Or integrated cockpit, a lightweight casette like the Garbaruk 10-48 12 speed one, not to mention the 32 spoke wheels, even over 15 years ago there were 24 spoke ones in lightweight MTBs...
Nice bike. With those tires and not being tubeless, I’d stick to the gravel roads, ;)
I want a single speed rim brake 26” version, with pedals.
Also those tires are just good rim protectors.
Them tires can’t do anymore than ride light dirt and no pedals or bottle cage :/ so it would be more like 7.5-8 KG but very nice build
Yea, tires aren't the place to be saving weight. Saving 300g by using the lightest tires imaginable might gain you 30 seconds over a 2 hour race from a power/weight perspective, but you'll be slipping on technical climbs, and going slow on downhills. This is why I run light trail tires on my XC bike. Also, not having pedals on the bike when weighing it is cheating.
7:47 best part
Now drop into any trail other than a gravel road and watch it explode on the first decent.
Because that's not the purpose of the build. It's built to be light, not tough. It's most likely just done for the video but will have its parts actually swapped out for actual use. Or maybe it was never intended to be used. Who knows. Those are all irrelevant. It's a video about a bike being built light. Title didn't lie.
But I'm also certain it'll do fine, I've seen bikes in worse conditions to take on anything...yet it's there. Doing things.
@@paddor Thats what you get buying cheap chinese knock off carbon parts, these TUNE parts are def up for the task - these will not break, but then they are quite expensive as well.
oooo caner beylerde burdaymış naysooo
Hoşgeldiniz hoşgeldiniz buyrun ön masalara alalım
7:40 that slap had me rollin
💀
It would be better if you did an in depth details of the parts used and their weight and specs.
I thought the cable for the M9100 needs a u-turn in order to tighten it.
It does.
It also needs plastic (or metal) caps on the ends of the housing to prevent corrosion and damage from the cable pulling unevenly. But that's the least of this build's problems.
Congrats for 1 million wievs
I’ve made my bike lighter by making it airtight and filling it full of helium. It now weighs 4kg
Million dollar idea of the future🤪
Wait, for real?
me too.. i just swap my alloy frame to plastick bubblewrap
Wow really ?
You should try Hydrogen , lighter still... just don’t crash!
Dream job Hayta. :)
Bike build vids on TH-cam are like Tarantino movies. They’d be twice as good if they were half as long.
You mean you dont enjoy watching his trained thumb action that could be done without thumb 10x faster? Cmon, its a show, doesnt matter he does basic error while screwing on stem, deraileur line is a scrap metal before the bike is even built, and drivechain sounds like it was sitting on floor of the lake for a year, as long as the parts are new, shiny and light.
You can speed up twice:)
This video was extremely calming and satisfying! beautiful bike and video!
Ficou linda essa bicicleta, deu vontade de pedalar, uma bicicleta com esses componentes aqui no Brasil custa mais caro que um carro, pode acreditar.
No mínimo do mínimo uns 60 mil
Na Aliexpress dá pra montar uma de menos de 10Kg gastando bem menos. Agora 6,5Kg é sinistro.
@@ssenssel Só meu quadro pesa 15kg kkkk
With a dropper post and more aggressive tread it’s the perfect trail hardtail
Not really, Stem is still longer than balls and the bars are flat as anything, plus the reach won’t be the same.
This guy: Say “torque to spec”
Me “UGGIE DUGGIES!!!”
The incorrect use of the torque wrench makes me crazy. Why use one in the first place, if you re-tighten every bolt after tightening it with the correct torque?
Going 1x11 with a e13 9-46t cassette and smaller front chain ring would shave even More weight, while saving money as well 🤷🏻♂️
Are these reliable?
@@10Filip yes
A fox 32 stepcast would also have saved an additional 300 grams, going with a slightly heavier tire and tubules would have been better, sram xx1 axs would have saved a couple, trickstuf picolo would have saved a couple, add titanium pedals and a carbon bottle cage and the total could be around 6kg
Valla tr de unno göreceğimi düşünmezdim companentlerde tune olunca tadından yenmiyor. Xtr sette candır. Sram setleride çok severim ama derdi çok bakımı zor anlayan adam bulmak zor kronik sorunları var. Ama shimano öylemi candır can. Bir sram level tl fren setim vardı, dot yağından dolayı süreki sıcak havalarda piston şişiriyor çok uğraştırıcıydı. Shimano deore xt set aldım gençleştim resmen bu kadar mı farkeder :D
Lighter than my fixed gear 😍😍
Deleting this comment soon, my new fxdgr weighs around 6.6kg rn hehehehe
How much the price
As a guy that has built..... naah, not much, maybe 10 bikes, I appreciate how well the video is made (reading some of the comments - the bike itself isn't necesserily very "well" made or built, or built with a high level of "attention to detail" - these are all just standard procedures required to make your bike last, and make your bike easy and reasonable to take apart once required, except for torque-wrenching everything, which is purely theatrical). That said, I've never been a weight weenie, and hold the belief that sometimes weight-weenying can be your enemy, esp. in MTB/XC - but if this bike goes on the youtube as the "superlight MTB" - and if someone goes the extra mile to make the bike extremely light, more weight shedding (even up to 200-300 grams) could be done, without reducing the functionality/capability. Here there's focus on light, expensive TUNE parts, very light CF frame, comparatively light SID fork, reasonably light XTR disc brakes - all new, off-the shelf parts. However, on one of my bikes I've been using XTR v-brakes for abt. 10 years, and there are absolutely no problems with them, also if compared with good disc brakes. They would make this set-up lighter, along with a straight (not tapered) older SID fork (abt. 1200 grams), along with QR, not thru-axle. The frame set-up itself isn't the lightest, using lots of excessive cable tubing inside the frame, instead of cable-stops throughout the bike, leaving the tubing to a minimum. Also, the tapered, oversized head tube is bigger than straight one, ie - heavier. Also - threading in steel screws in aluminium hub for the front DB with a powered tool is wrong in my opinion (high risk of cross-threading/damage). Apart from all that, a well-made video, keep up the work and greetings from Latvia.
Something feels fishy hear. There is no way that is 6.5 kg bike. Without pedals it must have at least 200-300g more, perhaps even as much as 7kg (depending on the tolerances).🤔
I agree this! With the drivetrain, that fork and nothing I see is ultra light weight. Need to list out the items.
He did not lift the bike from ground. The front wheel is not in the air
Very nice, I’ll take two please!!! Unfortunately I’ll break it the first time I take it out mountain bike riding.
bottlecage and pedals are overrated anyway
True haha
Valve caps? Nobody needs em anyways
@@weplaywax haha
He also forgot the bar end plugs
@@weplaywax Frame can go too. All you need to do is grabbing onto the axles with your bare hands and feet. Should work like wonder.
It is recommended to apply with a brush when applying grease.
Hayatabike: we have the lightest bike @6.5kg
me with a 15kg hardtail: 👁👄👁
15kg? i got 13kg..
Bisiklet güzel şarkı güzel adam güzel video güzel hafiflik güzel tek yanlış bizde niye yok? 😁
Unno'nun kadroları HA Rİ KA allah sahibine bağışlasın ne diyelim
Kullandınız mı ?
@@saribrahim1058 hayır, ama markayı uzun süredir biliyorum
@@korayyilmazarsivi pek bilinmeyen bir marka güvenemedim dostum nedense 😁
@@saribrahim1058 seri üretim değil sınırlı sayıda üretim yapıyorlar, butik bi marka. güvenilmeyecek bir şey yok ortada abi. istersen biraz arat internette markayı
6.5 kg
+ 0.17 pedals
+ 0.35 normal tyres
+ 0.20 Sram AXS
= 7.22 kg (about 500-600gr. havier than my bike with lighting))))
Elinize sağlık çok iyi bisiklet iyi iş👍👍👍
What a beauty! And she weighs less than my road bike!!!!
Wow!!! but only in my dream🤩
Light and nimble bike! Pure ride!
The lightest MTB would have a fork cut to size without the extra spacer.
It’s required to prevent clamping at the end of the steerer.
Nahhh it would have solid forks like mine .........
@@richardlocke3375 What Ive done with my road bikes with a carbon steerer is machine a pulley section 1.0 - 1.5 mm wall with about 5 degree of taper going into the middle rib, a central boss tapped to
take the tension screw. Then as each one was machined to the Dia
of the steerer ID and length was a bit shorter than the stem height I
bonded it in with epoxy. Its strong enough to tension the head bearings
and a good enough fit to prevent steerer tube collapse of damage.
@@richardlocke3375 Use a compression plug, problem solved.
for what? to gain 0.3 of a gram?
you know what works really well for spreading an even layer of grease... a small paint brush.
This is where DH riders cry
haha no
balanced weight contributes to better traction there is reason why some riders prefer sturdier aluminium DHs over carbon
Ride this baby down a legit downhill course at speed a few times first, then we'll talk about crying
theres a 13kg dh bikes
Честно говоря сложно поверить что байк даже главный может весить 6.5 учитывая что у шоссейных велосипедов но нормам UCI минимальный вес у шоссейного велосипеда не должен быть менее 6.2кг . Да и там тоже все карбон и покрышки лёгкие и спереди нет тяжёлой вилки. Выглядит на какой то обмен, но если это и вправду так то моё уважение.
Max rider weight: 65KG
9:00 You didnt put a shifter cable endcap. The steel wires inside the housing cable will not seat correctly, its not sealed from dirt and shifting performance will be shite quite soon.
Did one rotor by hand… then said FTS and grabbed the drill for the other.
When he weighted the bike the front wheel stayed on the ground.I just weighed my full suspension the same way and it weighs 3kg with huge mud grip tyres on it.
Should have at least installed some bar end caps, very dangerous.
Nice ASMR. Hasn't been my experience with wrenching bikes but hey 😂
Lightest MTB? No. Gustav Gullholm made a Scale RC 900 SL hardtail mountain bike - 6.22kg
With 11v, and " smokepaper" tyres
Nice build bro, awesome 👍
Amazing 👍👏
Eccellente risultato 🏆
Everyone saw in many places that you could have saved weight - the chain was too long anyway.
I really like the stealth bike with the loud fork.
Это прям какая-то медитация!
руль хлипкий сразу под замену , седло тоже не удобное без анатомического отверстия, грипсы тоже фуфло менять . Колеса и рама нормального райдера под 100 кг не выдержат . вел для велосипедистов в весе пера. )) В общем макет какой то
0:47 First mistake, the seat tube clamp is better with the clamping bolt on the front side
10 parmağında 128 marifet var kardeşimin :) Sahne de Caner Sağcan ...
oyuncu değişikliği güzel olmuş☺️
What kind of tube is that transparent..like a plastic.
Durex?
What a nice MTB paps👍🏻