It happened to me a couple times. You didn't mention it but the diameter of the tubing should be thin enough to go through the starting clamp. On Amazon I found 1/4" type but it's too big. UPDATE: Just found it!
Albert, Aloha, firstly, I would like to compliment you on all the tutorials you put together! The clarity and simplicity of your methods of explaining how to properly apply the standards of racquet stringing is unparalleled to any other stuff on the net!!! Secondly, using the nylon tubing on the bridging clamp is a most useful and ulterior way to just get the job done without having anything go wrong while holding a string under tension before being clamped off! I use a drop weight stringing machine and you know what happens when your bridging clamp fails while tensioning a string! I use flying/floating clamps with my drop weight stringing machine. I, for some time now, have adopted the Yusuki method with an offset tube and a starting clamp to start my mains. I start my horizontal strings using an offset tube and a starting clamp. I pre-weave the first 2 or 3 or 4, depending on the racquet, top horizontal strings and always tension the second cross string as to allow me to clamp with a flying clamp. I continue to tension and clamp the 3rd horizontal string and then I go back and then go back and tension and tie off the first cross. I actually enjoy using floating clamps and have come up with methods to accomplish ATW techniques. I do have an interesting and controversial question though regarding one piece stringing and the manufacture’s suggestion on how to do it on their racquet: On a Pro Staff and other models Wilson suggest stringing from the bottom up!!! What are your thoughts on that?
Aloha Dario, Thank you for your kind words. I love sharing my knowledge and passion for stringing, but comments like yours motivate me to keep producing content! 🙏 It is common knowledge that you should never install the cross strings from the bottom up. This method places a lot of stress on the top of the hoop and can cause distortion, or even worse cracking. The only time I've used this method was at a professional tournament and the player specifically asked me to string it that way. If you want to string a racquet 1-piece (when the main string tie-offs are at the throat), using the ATW method would be the best way to go. In fact, I developed my own ATW technique and I posted it on the IART website. If you're a Premium Member, you can check it out here - gssalliance.com/iart-member-content/around-the-world-with-a-twist/
When I go to the Wilson site, the one piece stringing diagram shows to start at the throat for the RF 97. Why would they do that? I saw your tutorial video about your ATW method for when the mains finish in the throat. It was very helpful and it solves the issue to have equal tension on the mains and the crosses. Nicely done!! Have that video saved! Thanks
Nice video! I 3d printed a block to offset the starting clamp, with a slot that is deep enough so it hangs on the string slot down instead of using a tube to offset the starting clamp. This way the string doesn't have to be threaded through a tube, and then unthreaded. A deep enough saw cut in a plastic or wood block would do as well. On the starting clamps the grip on the string changes with the depth into the clamp since it is a leverage issue. I ordered the Babolat clamps from the UK, most places don't seem to stock them.
@@ChrisL326 My STL files are on Printables. Search for Tennis Stringing Tools. Also a tool rack for the Gamma 9900, and some accessories for the QM--1 camera fence mount.
Aloha, Here's a video where I featured the Offset Tube. Check out the video description where you can purchase one. th-cam.com/video/OXF-zSA07_Y/w-d-xo.html
Aloha Jason, I notice that most machines have a certain degree of drawback and recovery. In my opinion, the main thing to pay attention to is the amount of recovery that occurs on each pull. I wrote an article for IART covering this topic. Here are the videos that illustrate drawback and recovery. * Drawback - th-cam.com/video/CzCn7eH78hk/w-d-xo.html * Recovery - th-cam.com/video/85WoGmNobpw/w-d-xo.html
Aloha, Just curious, what brand is your starting clamp? Babolat would be my first choice, but I'm not sure where you can order it by itself (not with the tool kit). I did a quick Google search and it sells for about $59-$85 but is out of stock at both places. The Alpha brand works well. I've ordered some for other stringers before. It looks and feels like the red and black ones featured in this video. You can get it from New Tech Tennis for $36 - newtechtennis.com/alpha-starting-clamp-asc-tennis-accessories-clamps.html.
Yeah I tried looking for the babolat starting clamp that was my first choice too. I have a pros pro starting clamp that is very stiff and seems to crush softer strings so I ordered another cheap unknown brand from eBay that they said works well. It did work well for a while but it just slips on thinner gages of string. I'm not sure if it's build up from to much usage and I tried cleaning them with alcohol. But thanks for your advice I'll order an alpha to try. Thank you again aloha from SF.
@@gtowsweet Thanks for letting me know about the Pros Pros starting clamp. I noticed it has 3 springs in the handle. What if you try taking out one spring and see if that helps alleviate the crushing issue? I heard of another stringer that did that with one of his starting clamps for that reason. 1) Try removing the middle spring first and see if that helps. 2) If not, then you could remove the inner or outer spring and see if that makes a difference. But then again, you risk the chance that it might slip on you. Let me know if you decide to make the call and if it works!
Prince loyalist. You are single handily keeping the brand alive
Aloha Richard, Funny 😄 I'm just trying to do my part!
Cool tricks, truly on the safer side of using clamps 😊
Aloha Vincent, Thanks, maybe I should have titled this video "Tricks of the Trade!"😀
It happened to me a couple times. You didn't mention it but the diameter of the tubing should be thin enough to go through the starting clamp. On Amazon I found 1/4" type but it's too big.
UPDATE: Just found it!
Albert, Aloha, firstly, I would like to compliment you on all the tutorials you put together! The clarity and simplicity of your methods of explaining how to properly apply the standards of racquet stringing is unparalleled to any other stuff on the net!!!
Secondly, using the nylon tubing on the bridging clamp is a most useful and ulterior way to just get the job done without having anything go wrong while holding a string under tension before being clamped off! I use a drop weight stringing machine and you know what happens when your bridging clamp fails while tensioning a string!
I use flying/floating clamps with my drop weight stringing machine. I, for some time now, have adopted the Yusuki method with an offset tube and a starting clamp to start my mains. I start my horizontal strings using an offset tube and a starting clamp. I pre-weave the first 2 or 3 or 4, depending on the racquet, top horizontal strings and always tension the second cross string as to allow me to clamp with a flying clamp. I continue to tension and clamp the 3rd horizontal string and then I go back and then go back and tension and tie off the first cross. I actually enjoy using floating clamps and have come up with methods to accomplish ATW techniques.
I do have an interesting and controversial question though regarding one piece stringing and the manufacture’s suggestion on how to do it on their racquet: On a Pro Staff and other models Wilson suggest stringing from the bottom up!!! What are your thoughts on that?
Aloha Dario, Thank you for your kind words. I love sharing my knowledge and passion for stringing, but comments like yours motivate me to keep producing content! 🙏
It is common knowledge that you should never install the cross strings from the bottom up. This method places a lot of stress on the top of the hoop and can cause distortion, or even worse cracking. The only time I've used this method was at a professional tournament and the player specifically asked me to string it that way.
If you want to string a racquet 1-piece (when the main string tie-offs are at the throat), using the ATW method would be the best way to go. In fact, I developed my own ATW technique and I posted it on the IART website. If you're a Premium Member, you can check it out here - gssalliance.com/iart-member-content/around-the-world-with-a-twist/
I had a question at the end of my long and laborious comment that I wish to have your input on. Sorry for the long comment.
@@Dario-CTCC Hmmm, I thought I addressed your question. Can you ask me again?
@@AMstringing oh my gosh, so sorry, yes you did , I just didn’t click on the “read more” icon. Pardon me for that!!
When I go to the Wilson site, the one piece stringing diagram shows to start at the throat for the RF 97. Why would they do that?
I saw your tutorial video about your ATW method for when the mains finish in the throat.
It was very helpful and it solves the issue to have equal tension on the mains and the crosses. Nicely done!! Have that video saved! Thanks
Nice video! I 3d printed a block to offset the starting clamp, with a slot that is deep enough so it hangs on the string slot down instead of using a tube to offset the starting clamp. This way the string doesn't have to be threaded through a tube, and then unthreaded. A deep enough saw cut in a plastic or wood block would do as well. On the starting clamps the grip on the string changes with the depth into the clamp since it is a leverage issue. I ordered the Babolat clamps from the UK, most places don't seem to stock them.
can you share the stl file?
@@ChrisL326 My STL files are on Printables. Search for Tennis Stringing Tools. Also a tool rack for the Gamma 9900, and some accessories for the QM--1 camera fence mount.
Hello sir, great tutorial and thank you for sharing your knowledge. Would you mind advising on where we can purchase the offset tube?
Aloha, Here's a video where I featured the Offset Tube. Check out the video description where you can purchase one.
th-cam.com/video/OXF-zSA07_Y/w-d-xo.html
@@AMstringing awesome. Much appreciated
👍
I saw your 2nd main clamp had a bit draw back when tension released.. what's your experience with drawback and whether it's a real issue?
Aloha Jason,
I notice that most machines have a certain degree of drawback and recovery. In my opinion, the main thing to pay attention to is the amount of recovery that occurs on each pull.
I wrote an article for IART covering this topic. Here are the videos that illustrate drawback and recovery.
* Drawback - th-cam.com/video/CzCn7eH78hk/w-d-xo.html
* Recovery - th-cam.com/video/85WoGmNobpw/w-d-xo.html
Hi Albert, what brand of starting clamp is best. I'm having problems with slippage with thinner gage strings at times when I use it as a bridge.
Aloha, Just curious, what brand is your starting clamp? Babolat would be my first choice, but I'm not sure where you can order it by itself (not with the tool kit). I did a quick Google search and it sells for about $59-$85 but is out of stock at both places. The Alpha brand works well. I've ordered some for other stringers before. It looks and feels like the red and black ones featured in this video. You can get it from New Tech Tennis for $36 - newtechtennis.com/alpha-starting-clamp-asc-tennis-accessories-clamps.html.
Yeah I tried looking for the babolat starting clamp that was my first choice too. I have a pros pro starting clamp that is very stiff and seems to crush softer strings so I ordered another cheap unknown brand from eBay that they said works well. It did work well for a while but it just slips on thinner gages of string. I'm not sure if it's build up from to much usage and I tried cleaning them with alcohol. But thanks for your advice I'll order an alpha to try. Thank you again aloha from SF.
@@gtowsweet Thanks for letting me know about the Pros Pros starting clamp. I noticed it has 3 springs in the handle. What if you try taking out one spring and see if that helps alleviate the crushing issue? I heard of another stringer that did that with one of his starting clamps for that reason.
1) Try removing the middle spring first and see if that helps.
2) If not, then you could remove the inner or outer spring and see if that makes a difference.
But then again, you risk the chance that it might slip on you. Let me know if you decide to make the call and if it works!