Very articulate! Thank you so much for a clear, concise & informative video without trying to entertain me and failing miserably in the attempt. TH-camrs, take a lesson from this guy.
Well done Jeff, as usual. Comment: You left out compression bits, which are both up AND down, for very clean edges on top and bottom, for both solid wood and plywood. More expensive, but GREAT bits! Question: Once in a great while, carbide bits need to be sharpened. Does your facility offer sharpening as well? Thanks!
Great explanation, but how do you sharpen spiral bits? I do sharpen my brazed bits at least once in their lifetime, so if spirals are not able to be sharpened in the shop then they have a shorter use life.
Thank you, Jeff. As always, your Deep Dive programs are superb. I am interested in the solid carbide router bits and I have a question. You presented marvelous reasons for purchasing a variety of different types of router bits. Unfortunately, my wallet presents another reason why this is not possible. If I can only afford one type of solid carbide bit for each size, what would you recommend?? And to answer your question, I do a variety of different types of routing. Would I be better to just stay with the brazed bits?? Thanks, Mark
You are definitely not better off with brazed bits. Working on a budget, I would get a 3-flute down-cut 1/2" bit with 1-1/4" cut length. That will be your general purpose rabbeting and grooving bit for both plywood and solid wood. When the budget allows, add a 1/4" x 1" up-cut 2-flute for narrow mortising and a 1/2" x 1-1/2" up-cut 2-flute for larger mortises. As projects come up, remember a couple keys to getting the right bit. Buy and/or use the shortest cut length that will get the job done...don't buy long cut length bits unless you need them. They're more expensive and shorter bits have less run-out. Use up-cut bits for deep work and down-cut for plywood.
Only in the fact that when you put your router in a table up is down and down is up. lol In response to an earlier comment I shared how I keep it straight in my head. "Up-Cut" pulls the chip toward the router motor. "Down-Cut" pushes the chip away from the router motor.
That's right, but to me it's easier to think of the router. Up-cut is pulling the chip toward the router. Down-cut is pushing the chip away from the router.
99% sure false statement " we started making router bits" No, I belive Whiteside has given you private label router bits. Why would you invest millions on tooling Craftsman and development of a product line when you can simply buy from the best manufacturer of router bits and label them woodpecker tools. When its beneficial to both companies to sell a private labeled product. It takes years to hone in a good product line It also makes perfect since to provide A private label product to someone like woodpecker tools. Its a great partnership. I look forward to expanding the sku with more bits and types of bits. Nothing wrong with 2 highter qulity tool manfacturing companies in the USA comming togather to make the best product's. Im 99.9% certian Woodpecker dosnt make the extruded aluminum blanks To make the tools and hold downs. Its designed and ordered by woodpecker milled into it rough shapes and sold in large raw materials. You dont make the dile indicators These are probably Sterrett made with a private label. Some parts are no longer made in the usa and have to be imported. I believe that manfacturing should be done in the usa becuse its a matter of national security, we need a healthy industrial sector that can meet the demands during a war. And by all means we need to 100% support America made products. Industry is vital to our national defense. You cant buy parts from a enemy nation. As Americans you need to avoid buying knock off products and support made in America brands.
While I agree with most of what you've said about buying American, you are wrong that we are not making the bits. We did indeed invest in the high-tech equipment necessary to manufacture router bits. Watch the product video and you'll see it in action. And, you're right that we do not have extrusion equipment, but all of our extrusions are from proprietary dies that we designed and purchased.
In one tiny spot I didn't cut deep enough to go all the way through the previously torn fibers. But, you do get the point, right? Shear cuts cut cleaner.
Very articulate! Thank you so much for a clear, concise & informative video without trying to entertain me and failing miserably in the attempt. TH-camrs, take a lesson from this guy.
Jeff Ferris. I knew I saw this man some where before . It was on the New Yankee Workshop S12 E11. Glad you are still around Jeff.
Well done Jeff, as usual.
Comment: You left out compression bits, which are both up AND down, for very clean edges on top and bottom, for both solid wood and plywood. More expensive, but GREAT bits!
Question: Once in a great while, carbide bits need to be sharpened. Does your facility offer sharpening as well?
Thanks!
Jeff you very clearly explained the bits and their uses. Especially liked the tips at the end. Thank you!
Good video. I learned a bunch. Off to order some router bits!
This is exciting news! I just saw the pricing and there is some excellent pricing for the value and quality here.
Thank you! I always... always learn something of great education from your video work. Have a great day!
Great explanation, but how do you sharpen spiral bits? I do sharpen my brazed bits at least once in their lifetime, so if spirals are not able to be sharpened in the shop then they have a shorter use life.
Spirals cannot be touched up by hand like a straight-bladed brazed bit can. They can be re-sharpened professionally.
Thank you Jeff! Well done, great information.
Thank you, Jeff. As always, your Deep Dive programs are superb. I am interested in the solid carbide router bits and I have a question. You presented marvelous reasons for purchasing a variety of different types of router bits. Unfortunately, my wallet presents another reason why this is not possible. If I can only afford one type of solid carbide bit for each size, what would you recommend?? And to answer your question, I do a variety of different types of routing. Would I be better to just stay with the brazed bits?? Thanks, Mark
You are definitely not better off with brazed bits. Working on a budget, I would get a 3-flute down-cut 1/2" bit with 1-1/4" cut length. That will be your general purpose rabbeting and grooving bit for both plywood and solid wood. When the budget allows, add a 1/4" x 1" up-cut 2-flute for narrow mortising and a 1/2" x 1-1/2" up-cut 2-flute for larger mortises. As projects come up, remember a couple keys to getting the right bit. Buy and/or use the shortest cut length that will get the job done...don't buy long cut length bits unless you need them. They're more expensive and shorter bits have less run-out. Use up-cut bits for deep work and down-cut for plywood.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Thank you very much. I will follow your advice.
Thank you Jeff, end up as good tutorial.
Very informative! 👏🏼
Very well done
Between up cut and down cut bits, does it make a difference between use in a router table vs using by hand?
Only in the fact that when you put your router in a table up is down and down is up. lol
In response to an earlier comment I shared how I keep it straight in my head. "Up-Cut" pulls the chip toward the router motor. "Down-Cut" pushes the chip away from the router motor.
Then lable them 'towards router' and 'away from router'. ;)
So downcut is toward sharp end and upcut is away from sharp end?
That's right, but to me it's easier to think of the router. Up-cut is pulling the chip toward the router. Down-cut is pushing the chip away from the router.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Thank you much for clarifying!
Will you be producing any in 8mm?
Not any time soon. Sorry. Hundreds of 1/2" and 1/4" to get online first.
Learned some things
The straight bit is NOT a spiral bit...no comparison...there are spiral bits, upcut and downcut spiral bits
And compression
99% sure false statement
" we started making router bits"
No, I belive Whiteside has given you private label router bits.
Why would you invest millions on tooling
Craftsman and development of a product line when you can simply buy from the best manufacturer of router bits and label them woodpecker tools.
When its beneficial to both companies to sell a private labeled product.
It takes years to hone in a good product line
It also makes perfect since to provide
A private label product to someone like woodpecker tools.
Its a great partnership.
I look forward to expanding the sku with more bits and types of bits.
Nothing wrong with 2 highter qulity tool manfacturing companies in the USA comming togather to make the best product's.
Im 99.9% certian Woodpecker dosnt make the extruded aluminum blanks
To make the tools and hold downs.
Its designed and ordered by woodpecker milled into it rough shapes and sold in large raw materials.
You dont make the dile indicators
These are probably Sterrett made with a private label.
Some parts are no longer made in the usa and have to be imported.
I believe that manfacturing should be done in the usa becuse its a matter of national security, we need a healthy industrial sector that can meet the demands during a war.
And by all means we need to 100% support America made products.
Industry is vital to our national defense.
You cant buy parts from a enemy nation.
As Americans you need to avoid buying knock off products and support made in America brands.
While I agree with most of what you've said about buying American, you are wrong that we are not making the bits. We did indeed invest in the high-tech equipment necessary to manufacture router bits. Watch the product video and you'll see it in action.
And, you're right that we do not have extrusion equipment, but all of our extrusions are from proprietary dies that we designed and purchased.
@3:04 you can see that it is NOT perfectly clean all the way through. Are you blind?
In one tiny spot I didn't cut deep enough to go all the way through the previously torn fibers. But, you do get the point, right? Shear cuts cut cleaner.