Another cracking video Charlie. I’m a Chartered Building Surveyor and spend half my life inspecting properties with shocking chimneys. It’s a relatively easy job made very difficult due to access issues. You made a good job of yours. One thing to mention for folks repointing live stacks is that it is important to use sulphate resisting cement to prevent sulphates in flue gases from reacting with the cement and causing cracking. The BRE (Building Research Establishment) recommend 1 part sulphate resistant Portland cement 0.5 parts lime and 4 parts sand with an air entrainment additive to add frost attack resistance. Sorry to be a clever dick, but sulphate and frost resistance is critical. Yours will be ok because it’s not a live stack.
A surveyor that actually goes up a ladder? Blimey the ones I know take a 5 minute look about, a few photos and away home to cut and paste a thousand pounds of nothing.
As a bricky. I can say that repairs don’t often go, or turn out that well. You turned it around in the end and it looks spot on. Can’t say that I’d want to be up there making vids of flaunching. Job well done.
Looks neat but that is a standard 300mm roll top chimney pot. As the name suggests the roll should be at the top. The roll is thicker for strength and to help water roll off the pot, also the mesh will very soon be covered in cobwebs which will make its use as a vent very restricted, and as others have said, sharp sand should have been used for the crown. The instructions on the tower were very good.
There's a lot of OCD with what I do, Thomas but I think for us DIYers, if we obsess over the detail (which obviously includes researching it in the first place) chances are we'll nail the job as good as/or even better than a trade would (or to an adequate level in any event).
Seen some good tips from other roofers in the comments, we put boards underneath the wheels of the scaffolding to prevent them sinking, We also don’t use mesh and build up with brick or slate as previously mentioned in the comments, we also put the cap on in stages with coursesand, let the first Go off to help prevent cracking and then put the final cap on top of that, leave an inch around all edges with the first cap, Great videos👍
Thanks Richard. Really appreciate the tips. I was never going to do everything right, so it's good for other people researching something like this to get pro tips to help them 👍🏻
Big well done on this, I wouldn't beat yourself up too much because its the first time you've done it and it looks brilliant. Good idea with the mesh btw, usually you would take some corses of brick out and pack/fill around with slate but that worked a treat!
Don't think I'll ever be attempting this job myself but thoroughly enjoyed watching you do it in your unique style.. Another great Job and excellent video. Thanks Charlie 👏
Great finish, looks better than any "professional" would have done! Fair play to you for making the video at the same time, I'm sure you had enough to worry about!! Top video as usual!! 👍
Thanks, I really appreciate that. There's a few things the pros would do different - like using sharp rather than building sand, and in hindsight I could have stopped after doing that first mix, scratch coated it and then returned to finish it off a few days later when the good weather returned, but you never know when that might be, in our climate 🤔👍🏻
Dont slate all professionals. Most of us are very consciousness only a very few so called professionals give us all a bad name. He has done a neat job but with some very obvious mistakes to people who have been doing this for 30+ years
I disagree. A prefessional job would not bear such close scrutiny. And I'd bet my house that rubble and other crap would have been used to try to stop cement going down the chimney. This is a first-class Rolls Royce of a job (IMO). Which is what I reckon you think too!
I have recently started to use the 3 in 1 with retarder as well from everbuild, and loved the workability of it. No not really needed at the moment but gave me a little more time. Very enjoyable content.
Absolutely nothing wrong with that job 👏 I had a problem with sika flex when its cold popped in warm water for 5mins came out like icing grate vid and tips cheers 👍
When i did mine I used some hardie backer cement board and cut a circular hole in it a bit less that the chimney pot for it to rest on with some sand and cement. The added benefit of this is that the cement board is waterproof, in case your haunching cracks over time.
Nice to get a wider view of DIYte Mansions! I use Sika SBR as a key onto old mortar and additive for new. Better than pva (unsuitable when gets wet) and makes mortar nice and 'sticky'. Expensive though.
good video. job well done. most diy homeowners would never dream of doing a job like that. like you i tend to do my own research and have a go myself. it is all about learning and gaining exp. you also save yourself a lot of £££££'s.👍👍
Thanks buddy. Exactly. Everyone's got to start somewhere. In my early 20s my capabilities were pretty much limited to woodwork but as you say, with each project you learn new skills which kid of creates its own steamroller effect 👍
I got a tower from top towers this year for about £500. Very good value. You must tie on like Charlie showed but you may need a standoff also. You just need somewhere to store it all. I like the mesh idea for other mortar reinforcing uses. Great vid
Another excellent video, coincidentally relevant to my current project of prepping for winter....which involves a new Rayburn stove, chimney pot and cowling. Haven't chosen the cowling yet but probably an H type, as currently some smoke enters the kitchen every time the door is opened. Useful info on the scaffolding tower thank you, as otherwise it's a ladder and my usual two-point harness and safety line around the base of the chimney. 😬
Thanks. A few people pointed out I should have used sharp sand rather than builders. Didn't matter as I applied a waterproof admix (which will more than make up for the weaker mix) but when you do yours get sharp sand 👊
@@CharlieDIYte Hmm... I've just finished laying 40 large concrete slabs as a base for a greenhouse; I started out with sharp sand (because Jewson advised me) and hated it. I ran out and reordered with builder's sand. It went half as far but held the moisture twice as well (greater adsorptive surface area, better hexagonal close packing etc.) and was far nicer to use. It also provided better suction on the base of the slabs, was easier to level and, in my view, was more robust. Sharp sand is more cost-effective, but I dispute it being better, especially for fine jobs such as a chimney pot replacement. Where I do prefer sharp sand is for lime mortar because it more closely matches the original matrix used in the old walls of my cottage; mine are about half a metre thick and made from granite blocks and rubble. I’m keen to match the limework as closely as I can. Incidentally, I used Sika FastFix All Weather Jointing Paving Compound for the joints rather than a lime mortar dry mix which was my first choice (and which works well if done correctly). Despite my initial reservations it’s actually worked very well and is ludicrously easy to use; anyone who can smooth out demerara sugar (because that’s what it’s like) could use this. It has its faults (expensive, smelly, takes ages to set if there is any rain) but the end result has been pleasing. If you buy it though, do so in person from an actual shop, *NOT* online. That’s because the tub contains two 7.5kg foil packs that _must_ have their seals intact, otherwise it goes hard, and at over £30 a go there can be no wastage. I opened mine in the Screwfix store and one of the packs was compromised, but the staff to their credit fetched me another tub and that was fine, so always buy from a shop and always check before you leave.
Thanks mate - yes I can be a bit OCD! A few people have pointed out I should have used sharp sand, but the waterproofer should negate any downsides of the building sand I used.
Niche or not, I love watching your videos as I learn so much that I can apply to other things. So thanks for taking the camera up there with you and sharing what you do. :-)
Nice job, although minor criticism; That mesh and the holes in the cowl will clog with spider webs in a few years, and there's no way for a brush to get through to clean them out. Also, much better to use concrete at the top, sharp sand and 10mm gravel. Will last many years longer than sand cement alone
I used 3:1 sharp sand to cement. Wouldn't use building sand on the flaunching as its not hard wearing. I found getting the shape of the flaunching right a bit of a chore as my scaffolding didn't allow me to get right to all sides comfortably.
@@CharlieDIYte Folks across the pond have different terminology. What is sharp sand? We have masonry sand on shelves at big box stores .... Is that the same thing. As for waterproofing and plasticizer additives, is there a brand name? I have used plasticizer in concrete for foundation when it was going to be pumped. Didn't know if it is available for masonry mortar.
Nice job mate, I'm just about to do a chimney stack rebuild as the wood burner liner has failed so its just as cheap to rebuild the hole stack as it needs doing and replace the liner than just get someone to replace the liner, fingers crossed just waiting for the scaffolding to be put up.
Hi Charlie great video. You say it’s for ventilation this chimney. How important is it to leave a chimney inside (fireplace) open for ventilation then? Scale of 1-10 with 10 being extremely! Some years ago I bricked my fireplace up plasterboarded and plastered, no problems at all. Just wondered how important Cheers.
Thanks. The main thing I got wrong here was using builders sand rather than sharp sand which has a bit more gravel in it but the waterproof admix negates the disadvantage. I went up there recently to install Starlink th-cam.com/video/S3WPYHhITE0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xTIdxmiYxVBt9u6V and it still looks great. I don't think I would use lime mortar for a job like this. I think it needs to be as hardy as possible.
Thanks Daniel. If you're doing this, mix in a bit of sharp and just to give it a bit more durability. I'll never have an issue with what I've done particularly with the water proofing agent but I should have used some sharp sand in hindsight 👍
As DIYers I sometimes think we are the harshest critics of our own work. That chimney ventilator work looks superb - even up close, let alone from the ground. I'd like to see a so-called professional take so much care as to the method and the final appearance. Now, about that gable-end wall.....
Thanks so much for that 👊🏻👍🏻. Yes that wall is horrific, isn't it. I bought about 25 litres of Johnstone's exterior paint a couple of years ago but have failed to get round to pressure washing and repainting any except the North gable end. It's partly the time it takes to edit all these videos but it WILL be done next summer, when I also have the remaining cast iron gutters to strip and repaint, and various cracks in that awful 1970s Tyrolean render to grind out and epoxy. Bless the old house. It's forever providing me with new content!
Thank you. Doesn’t driving rain get in those holes? I ask because I have a pottery cowl with vertical open slots that I’m convinced is causing my wet chimney breast.
Hi Charlie, thanks for the video , it looked scary up there, good call on ditching the ladder and using the tower, I'll alway go whith my instincts, if it doesn't feel safe then your not safe, anyone getting it wrong on a roof is one step away from A,E or worse, you did a great job in the end, should last for years, ignore the nay sayers, they've probably never done anything, I've been watching you work from day one ,and all I can say is carry on Charlie it's great ,and thanks for the tips, stay safe mate, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart.uk.
Thanks so much Stuart, for taking the time to comment, and also for the words of support. I love most of the constructive criticism, because it keeps me on my toes, and also provides a fab reference source for anyone watching the vids. For example the main one today was to use sharp sand rather than builders sand. Dow! Why didn't I think of that!! I really appreciate your support from day 1, but I must wholeheartedly apologise for the cheesy music in my early videos. What WAS I thinking!? Thanks again 👍🏻
Aw, thanks Nick! I don't know... that could be quite scary but at least someone else would do all the filming and editing. The way I'm editing my stuff these days takes for EVER 😏
@@CharlieDIYte Well, you never know! The Carpenter's Daughter was spotted on youtube and she's been appearing on tv building things with Alan Titchmarsh :)
Oh well done Charley, you did a great job. Btw i wasnt looking at what your wall looked like, i was panicking about you up on that scaffolding.....please take care and be safe.
Once again, Great informative n clear explanation as always Always follow your videos and learning a lot to tackle the odd jobs around the house Thank you 🙏
Good video. I need to repoint my chimney stack so gave me some ideas in case I need to reset the pot etc. Being selfish would of liked to see some more of the "how to repoint" keep up the good work. 👍
Any idea What type of other rain cover i can use on a old Victorian chimney which is still used for a log burner, seen some plastic covers but they just don’t look right, the top round is roughly 225mm wide, let me know please if any ideas.. thanks
Charlie to get the mix just Right mate flick the water into the barrow with a brush mate the last bit of water pouring it in is a No No mate try Flicking the water with a brush technique never goes Wrong that way Mate Great Video Charlie 👍👍
Enjoyed the video but would like to know how to replace an active pot. Particularly how to mortar in the corners without filling the flue. A minor criticism is that should any one in the future wish to use the flue again the mesh would need to be removed. I am with you on working at height though, anything more than one storey I climb I to a harness!
Great video, thanks for sharing! I'm just about to tackle this myself, and I was wondering whether to use hydrated lime in the cement mix instead of the waterproofing plasticiser? They both seem to improve flexibility and reduce porosity. I wouldn't want to get the mix wrong though and have to put the scaffolding back up again to redo it! Any advice would be much appreciated.
Should have use sharp or washed sand and the pot on slates like we've done since God were a lad. Bit of lime in mix stops cracking. If you ever want to reuse the chimney it's all got to come off now because of the mesh.
I wouldn't advise using the mesh screen with an active chimney, a) because in all probability the fumes would quickly creosote up the mesh and b) because the liner for eg a log burner has to be connected to the chimney pot. I had to totally remove the grill from around the metal cowl I fitted to our log burner chimney pot when remarkably that completely creosoted up. I had admittedly been burning pine that hadn't properly seasoned, and committed a few other errors, like leaving the fire simmering away through the night - which is a recipe for high creosote build up.
Can I replace the pots with metal ones? I had a drone over the chimney to have a look and one came off last year so I’d like not to put anything heavy on?
Very decent job that mate 👍👍. Would of cost an arm and a leg to get a tradesman in to do it. I'm very impressed and the video editing and communication was spot on👍. Be a good few years before it will need re doing.
Thanks 👍🏻 The sad thing is, that tree is just cookers. I have an eater tree next to it (both ancient) which produces lovely perfumed apples with a red flesh, but the wasps get most of them and those that they don't, the codling mouths pepper with worms. So although we have a place in the village that turns them into apple juice, we're unlucky most years, not helped by the fact that the cookers ripen a good month after the eaters (you need a combination for a good bottle of apple Juice). The trees are too old I think.
The mix looks a bit weak mate , could of done with some more cement mate when it looks more brown thats a good mix but if it looks more red its a weak mix and you could of used sharp sand on a chimney because its exposed to extreme weather conditions. Great work 👍👍
Thanks. Yes the sharp sand is a good point. Cross with myself for not thinking of that. Hopefully the waterproofer will help it withstand the weather though.
Three video series about to start. This week's will be all about filling the cracks in the render, followed by the gutters and then painting the outside 👍🏻
Thanks Charlie - the finish looks excellent to me, don't beat yourself up.
Agreed. It looks really good.
Another cracking video Charlie. I’m a Chartered Building Surveyor and spend half my life inspecting properties with shocking chimneys. It’s a relatively easy job made very difficult due to access issues. You made a good job of yours. One thing to mention for folks repointing live stacks is that it is important to use sulphate resisting cement to prevent sulphates in flue gases from reacting with the cement and causing cracking. The BRE (Building Research Establishment) recommend 1 part sulphate resistant Portland cement 0.5 parts lime and 4 parts sand with an air entrainment additive to add frost attack resistance. Sorry to be a clever dick, but sulphate and frost resistance is critical. Yours will be ok because it’s not a live stack.
Well, clever dick, you didn't say what the flue was for - are the sulphates from burning wood, coal, natural gas, dead bodies or what ?
A surveyor that actually goes up a ladder? Blimey the ones I know take a 5 minute look about, a few photos and away home to cut and paste a thousand pounds of nothing.
Great knowledge to pass on, well done 👍🏻
@@stevenmoore3480 Cut and paste a thousand pounds of nothing, that's true enough.
As a bricky. I can say that repairs don’t often go, or turn out that well. You turned it around in the end and it looks spot on. Can’t say that I’d want to be up there making vids of flaunching. Job well done.
Looks neat but that is a standard 300mm roll top chimney pot. As the name suggests the roll should be at the top. The roll is thicker for strength and to help water roll off the pot, also the mesh will very soon be covered in cobwebs which will make its use as a vent very restricted, and as others have said, sharp sand should have been used for the crown. The instructions on the tower were very good.
I love the fact you get frustrated if the jobs not done right even if others don't notice. I'm more and more like it with every job I do.
There's a lot of OCD with what I do, Thomas but I think for us DIYers, if we obsess over the detail (which obviously includes researching it in the first place) chances are we'll nail the job as good as/or even better than a trade would (or to an adequate level in any event).
Seen some good tips from other roofers in the comments, we put boards underneath the wheels of the scaffolding to prevent them sinking, We also don’t use mesh and build up with brick or slate as previously mentioned in the comments, we also put the cap on in stages with coursesand, let the first Go off to help prevent cracking and then put the final cap on top of that, leave an inch around all edges with the first cap, Great videos👍
Thanks Richard. Really appreciate the tips. I was never going to do everything right, so it's good for other people researching something like this to get pro tips to help them 👍🏻
Wouldn’t even dream of tackling a job like this myself, I know my DIY limits. But great to watch and learn!
Love the fact that you are prepared to tackle anything!
Thanks! You have to though, don't you 😉 👍🏻
The video might be a bit niche but I find it fascinating none the less.
Also don't beat yourself up on the finish, I think it looks great.
Big well done on this, I wouldn't beat yourself up too much because its the first time you've done it and it looks brilliant.
Good idea with the mesh btw, usually you would take some corses of brick out and pack/fill around with slate but that worked a treat!
I don't even have a chimney and I enjoyed this video
❤️
Don't think I'll ever be attempting this job myself but thoroughly enjoyed watching you do it in your unique style.. Another great Job and excellent video. Thanks Charlie 👏
I think you did a fantastic job Charlie you should be proud.
Thanks, and great to hear from you, buddy 👍🏻
Another great, informative video. Don't be so hard on yourself Charlie, you're my DIY inspiration!
Thanks Tom - I really appreciate that 👏🏻👊🏻
Good work Charlie, when we have a heavy downpour we get a drop down our chimney, it’s on my list to do and this helps a lot 👍
Great finish, looks better than any "professional" would have done! Fair play to you for making the video at the same time, I'm sure you had enough to worry about!! Top video as usual!! 👍
Thanks, I really appreciate that. There's a few things the pros would do different - like using sharp rather than building sand, and in hindsight I could have stopped after doing that first mix, scratch coated it and then returned to finish it off a few days later when the good weather returned, but you never know when that might be, in our climate 🤔👍🏻
Dont slate all professionals. Most of us are very consciousness only a very few so called professionals give us all a bad name. He has done a neat job but with some very obvious mistakes to people who have been doing this for 30+ years
Looks like a professional job. Well done✔
I disagree. A prefessional job would not bear such close scrutiny. And I'd bet my house that rubble and other crap would have been used to try to stop cement going down the chimney. This is a first-class Rolls Royce of a job (IMO). Which is what I reckon you think too!
I have recently started to use the 3 in 1 with retarder as well from everbuild, and loved the workability of it. No not really needed at the moment but gave me a little more time.
Very enjoyable content.
Here's me watching this thinking I'm gonna be up on my roof tomorrow doing the same thing. (I'm not!) Learnt a lot though so thank you!
Glad to hear it, thanks for the comment 👊
Absolutely nothing wrong with that job 👏 I had a problem with sika flex when its cold popped in warm water for 5mins came out like icing grate vid and tips cheers 👍
When i did mine I used some hardie backer cement board and cut a circular hole in it a bit less that the chimney pot for it to rest on with some sand and cement. The added benefit of this is that the cement board is waterproof, in case your haunching cracks over time.
I was going to write the same. Wonderful stuff Hardibaker cement board.
Not easy to cut though.
Doing mine now, can’t decide between slate or hardiebacker, how’s yours after 3 years and are any flues in use as one of ours is
@@ninjahamster1551 mines not budged and inch, in use all the time
A pretty good finish.
I'll have a go at most jobs but I cant get myself on a roof. I need some scaffolding to make myself feel safe.
Just what i needed as our chimney is leaking! Thank you Charlie
Nice to get a wider view of DIYte Mansions! I use Sika SBR as a key onto old mortar and additive for new. Better than pva (unsuitable when gets wet) and makes mortar nice and 'sticky'. Expensive though.
Better job than I’ve seen so called builders do
good video. job well done. most diy homeowners would never dream of doing a job like that.
like you i tend to do my own research and have a go myself. it is all about learning and gaining exp.
you also save yourself a lot of £££££'s.👍👍
Thanks buddy. Exactly. Everyone's got to start somewhere. In my early 20s my capabilities were pretty much limited to woodwork but as you say, with each project you learn new skills which kid of creates its own steamroller effect 👍
I got a tower from top towers this year for about £500. Very good value. You must tie on like Charlie showed but you may need a standoff also. You just need somewhere to store it all. I like the mesh idea for other mortar reinforcing uses. Great vid
Thanks James. The pro roofers are suggesting slate for below the chimney pot, which makes good sense.
Another excellent video, coincidentally relevant to my current project of prepping for winter....which involves a new Rayburn stove, chimney pot and cowling. Haven't chosen the cowling yet but probably an H type, as currently some smoke enters the kitchen every time the door is opened. Useful info on the scaffolding tower thank you, as otherwise it's a ladder and my usual two-point harness and safety line around the base of the chimney. 😬
Thanks. A few people pointed out I should have used sharp sand rather than builders. Didn't matter as I applied a waterproof admix (which will more than make up for the weaker mix) but when you do yours get sharp sand 👊
@@CharlieDIYte Hmm... I've just finished laying 40 large concrete slabs as a base for a greenhouse; I started out with sharp sand (because Jewson advised me) and hated it. I ran out and reordered with builder's sand. It went half as far but held the moisture twice as well (greater adsorptive surface area, better hexagonal close packing etc.) and was far nicer to use. It also provided better suction on the base of the slabs, was easier to level and, in my view, was more robust. Sharp sand is more cost-effective, but I dispute it being better, especially for fine jobs such as a chimney pot replacement.
Where I do prefer sharp sand is for lime mortar because it more closely matches the original matrix used in the old walls of my cottage; mine are about half a metre thick and made from granite blocks and rubble. I’m keen to match the limework as closely as I can.
Incidentally, I used Sika FastFix All Weather Jointing Paving Compound for the joints rather than a lime mortar dry mix which was my first choice (and which works well if done correctly). Despite my initial reservations it’s actually worked very well and is ludicrously easy to use; anyone who can smooth out demerara sugar (because that’s what it’s like) could use this. It has its faults (expensive, smelly, takes ages to set if there is any rain) but the end result has been pleasing. If you buy it though, do so in person from an actual shop, *NOT* online. That’s because the tub contains two 7.5kg foil packs that _must_ have their seals intact, otherwise it goes hard, and at over £30 a go there can be no wastage. I opened mine in the Screwfix store and one of the packs was compromised, but the staff to their credit fetched me another tub and that was fine, so always buy from a shop and always check before you leave.
Looks great Charlie, you sound like a perfectionist, something I'm accused of, but we just want to do a decent job😊
Thanks mate - yes I can be a bit OCD! A few people have pointed out I should have used sharp sand, but the waterproofer should negate any downsides of the building sand I used.
Nice and neat Charlie, but I would have used a grano mix for the benching and maybe added some SDR to the mortar you used for the fillet.
Niche or not, I love watching your videos as I learn so much that I can apply to other things. So thanks for taking the camera up there with you and sharing what you do. :-)
Thanks Martin. That's incredibly kind. Wouldn't have the drive to continue posting without all the supportive comments from fab people like you 👍🏻👊🏻👏🏻
Nice job, although minor criticism; That mesh and the holes in the cowl will clog with spider webs in a few years, and there's no way for a brush to get through to clean them out.
Also, much better to use concrete at the top, sharp sand and 10mm gravel. Will last many years longer than sand cement alone
I used 3:1 sharp sand to cement. Wouldn't use building sand on the flaunching as its not hard wearing. I found getting the shape of the flaunching right a bit of a chore as my scaffolding didn't allow me to get right to all sides comfortably.
Yes you're right about the sharp sand. Hopefully with the waterproofer it'll stand the test of time.
@@CharlieDIYte Folks across the pond have different terminology. What is sharp sand? We have masonry sand on shelves at big box stores .... Is that the same thing. As for waterproofing and plasticizer additives, is there a brand name? I have used plasticizer in concrete for foundation when it was going to be pumped. Didn't know if it is available for masonry mortar.
Great job. Looks really well and will last for years.
Thanks. I should have used sharp sand but the water proofing agent will probably more than compensate.
Nice job mate, I'm just about to do a chimney stack rebuild as the wood burner liner has failed so its just as cheap to rebuild the hole stack as it needs doing and replace the liner than just get someone to replace the
liner, fingers crossed just waiting for the scaffolding to be put up.
I think you need sharp sand for flaunting a chimney as it's harder wearing but very good demo on tower keep up the good filming
yes i thought that, came to the comments to see haha
Good job Charlie, that will not rain in for many years if ever.
Looks like a top job buddy! Turned out very well. Looking forward to the next vid
Hi Charlie great video.
You say it’s for ventilation this chimney. How important is it to leave a chimney inside (fireplace) open for ventilation then? Scale of 1-10 with 10 being extremely! Some years ago I bricked my fireplace up plasterboarded and plastered, no problems at all. Just wondered how important
Cheers.
Great job, Charlie. What would you have changed if you used lime mortar rather than S&C? Thanks.
Thanks. The main thing I got wrong here was using builders sand rather than sharp sand which has a bit more gravel in it but the waterproof admix negates the disadvantage. I went up there recently to install Starlink th-cam.com/video/S3WPYHhITE0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xTIdxmiYxVBt9u6V and it still looks great. I don't think I would use lime mortar for a job like this. I think it needs to be as hardy as possible.
Charlie got proper skills
Excellent job. Do you have an air ventilation brick at the base of the capped chimneys as well?
Might a bit niche Charlie but it’s an invaluable tutorial for my problem in hand. Good work!
Thanks Daniel. If you're doing this, mix in a bit of sharp and just to give it a bit more durability. I'll never have an issue with what I've done particularly with the water proofing agent but I should have used some sharp sand in hindsight 👍
As DIYers I sometimes think we are the harshest critics of our own work. That chimney ventilator work looks superb - even up close, let alone from the ground. I'd like to see a so-called professional take so much care as to the method and the final appearance. Now, about that gable-end wall.....
Thanks so much for that 👊🏻👍🏻. Yes that wall is horrific, isn't it. I bought about 25 litres of Johnstone's exterior paint a couple of years ago but have failed to get round to pressure washing and repainting any except the North gable end. It's partly the time it takes to edit all these videos but it WILL be done next summer, when I also have the remaining cast iron gutters to strip and repaint, and various cracks in that awful 1970s Tyrolean render to grind out and epoxy. Bless the old house. It's forever providing me with new content!
Thank you. Doesn’t driving rain get in those holes?
I ask because I have a pottery cowl with vertical open slots that I’m convinced is causing my wet chimney breast.
I think if it does it will be a tiny amount.
Hi Charlie, thanks for the video , it looked scary up there, good call on ditching the ladder and using the tower, I'll alway go whith my instincts, if it doesn't feel safe then your not safe, anyone getting it wrong on a roof is one step away from A,E or worse, you did a great job in the end, should last for years, ignore the nay sayers, they've probably never done anything, I've been watching you work from day one ,and all I can say is carry on Charlie it's great ,and thanks for the tips, stay safe mate, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart.uk.
Thanks so much Stuart, for taking the time to comment, and also for the words of support. I love most of the constructive criticism, because it keeps me on my toes, and also provides a fab reference source for anyone watching the vids. For example the main one today was to use sharp sand rather than builders sand. Dow! Why didn't I think of that!! I really appreciate your support from day 1, but I must wholeheartedly apologise for the cheesy music in my early videos. What WAS I thinking!? Thanks again 👍🏻
Looked like a really nice job to me, another great vid, you should have your own t.v. show Charlie.
Aw, thanks Nick! I don't know... that could be quite scary but at least someone else would do all the filming and editing. The way I'm editing my stuff these days takes for EVER 😏
@@CharlieDIYte Well, you never know! The Carpenter's Daughter was spotted on youtube and she's been appearing on tv building things with Alan Titchmarsh :)
Oh well done Charley, you did a great job. Btw i wasnt looking at what your wall looked like, i was panicking about you up on that scaffolding.....please take care and be safe.
After all that blood, sweat n tears Charlie, you really deserve a thumbs up 👍. Great video.
Thanks Fergus 👊🏻
Love it Charlie. Super useful and shaming me into getting up on my roof to fix some urgent repairs 👌🏼🏴👍🏼
Once again, Great informative n clear explanation as always
Always follow your videos and learning a lot to tackle the odd jobs around the house
Thank you 🙏
Good video. I need to repoint my chimney stack so gave me some ideas in case I need to reset the pot etc. Being selfish would of liked to see some more of the "how to repoint" keep up the good work. 👍
Thanks Charlie
Have you got any videos on how to stuff an unused chimney?
We dont want mold etc and wasnt sure about materials to use.
Cheers
- Curt
I’m preparing to do this- have got found pots which stylistically match the area...
Just use sharp sand rather than builders and I do recommend a bit of waterproof admix to help with the weather proofing.
Looks like a great finish, good work!
Any idea What type of other rain cover i can use on a old Victorian chimney which is still used for a log burner, seen some plastic covers but they just don’t look right, the top round is roughly 225mm wide, let me know please if any ideas.. thanks
Charlie to get the mix just Right mate flick the water into the barrow with a brush mate the last bit of water pouring it in is a No No mate try Flicking the water with a brush technique never goes Wrong that way Mate Great Video Charlie 👍👍
I like that, Ryan. Makes perfect sense!! Thanks for the comment 👍🏻
How is that cap doing, any crack? It went on quite wet...
Love your vids, always informative, no waffle, good job👍
Nice neat job, what more could you want. Thanks for posting!
Great video, please keep up the brilliant advice and ideas.
Thanks Marki 👍🏻
I need to do this on my cottage I just bought! Great timing haha thanks
Enjoyed the video but would like to know how to replace an active pot. Particularly how to mortar in the corners without filling the flue. A minor criticism is that should any one in the future wish to use the flue again the mesh would need to be removed. I am with you on working at height though, anything more than one storey I climb I to a harness!
Hi charlie, do I just remove that cap if I want to use the open fire. Thanks
Yes, and you can put a special cowl on like this bit.ly/32tqQub to keep rainwater out although I took the grill off mine as it got clogged with soot.
Well done Charlie, I don't think I could go that high, it's bad enough on my bungalow roof 😁
As usual very nice video of yours, thank you for the fantastic and informative videos .
Thanks 👍🏻
Another interesting video Charlie, glad I wasn't up that high.
Is it possible to get vents for square chimney pots? Everything seems to be based around round ones from what I can tell.
Yes you can. Google "square chimney pot cowels"
Great video, thanks for sharing! I'm just about to tackle this myself, and I was wondering whether to use hydrated lime in the cement mix instead of the waterproofing plasticiser? They both seem to improve flexibility and reduce porosity. I wouldn't want to get the mix wrong though and have to put the scaffolding back up again to redo it! Any advice would be much appreciated.
They both do a similar job. Also use sharp sand rather than builders. 👍
Great job as always Charlie. Thank you.
Great job in my opinion, interesting to watch
Excellent job Charlie!!!!!!!!!!!!
As a DIY-er you really are at a lonely height Charlie. Nice job! ATB Marc - Belgium
Should have use sharp or washed sand and the pot on slates like we've done since God were a lad. Bit of lime in mix stops cracking. If you ever want to reuse the chimney it's all got to come off now because of the mesh.
no just cut the mesh from inside the pot !
Smoke will go through the mesh won't it?!
@@Petertronic Yes but cobwebs won’t 🤷🏻♂️ fire hazard 🔥
@@Petertronic soot will collect on it in not time and block it. Active flues should not be impeded
Great job, I can try mine now. Thanks
Thanks. Just use sharp sand rather than builders. 👍🏻
Charlie DIYte will do thanks.
Looks amazing
Thanks 👍🏻
This was brilliant Charlie. Thank you
looks good and so satisfying
I don’t know why you was fretting you done a great job on that
Thanks. 👊
Looks tip-top to me Charlie 👍🏼
Thanks 👍🏻
I'm curious if the flue fumes will corrode the mesh screen?
I wouldn't advise using the mesh screen with an active chimney, a) because in all probability the fumes would quickly creosote up the mesh and b) because the liner for eg a log burner has to be connected to the chimney pot. I had to totally remove the grill from around the metal cowl I fitted to our log burner chimney pot when remarkably that completely creosoted up. I had admittedly been burning pine that hadn't properly seasoned, and committed a few other errors, like leaving the fire simmering away through the night - which is a recipe for high creosote build up.
Can I replace the pots with metal ones? I had a drone over the chimney to have a look and one came off last year so I’d like not to put anything heavy on?
Why are you worried about weight? I'd say the most important thing is making sure it stays in character with the other ones that are there.
Could I mix in some with the motar some fibres to make it stronger
And could I use screwfix ready much? I have a cherry picker on order 👍
Very decent job that mate 👍👍. Would of cost an arm and a leg to get a tradesman in to do it. I'm very impressed and the video editing and communication was spot on👍. Be a good few years before it will need re doing.
Which cement did you use to get the white finish?
Reckon a different sand was used in the final shoot.
Do you not have a club hammer?
What a set of bullocks on you mate. Great job!
Thanks mate. Only thing - I should have used sharp sand but with the waterproof ad mixture it'll be just as durable.
neat and tidy work,well done...
Thanks Ian. I should probably have used sharp sand but it's looking good several months down the line.
Awesome, great way to save a grand. Specially 3 years later.
Very informative video Charlie, but how do you grow such magnificent apples ? Do the wasps eat many ?
Thanks 👍🏻 The sad thing is, that tree is just cookers. I have an eater tree next to it (both ancient) which produces lovely perfumed apples with a red flesh, but the wasps get most of them and those that they don't, the codling mouths pepper with worms. So although we have a place in the village that turns them into apple juice, we're unlucky most years, not helped by the fact that the cookers ripen a good month after the eaters (you need a combination for a good bottle of apple Juice). The trees are too old I think.
Good job looks good
Thanks 👍🏻
Just great as usual. many thanks Andy
looks good to me, was surprised you resisted writing your name and date into the render though
Great to watch and learn .
Thanks Maria 👍
Charlie, don't denigrate yourself... this was a fantastic looking result!
The mix looks a bit weak mate , could of done with some more cement mate when it looks more brown thats a good mix but if it looks more red its a weak mix and you could of used sharp sand on a chimney because its exposed to extreme weather conditions. Great work 👍👍
Thanks. Yes the sharp sand is a good point. Cross with myself for not thinking of that. Hopefully the waterproofer will help it withstand the weather though.
Looks good to me, nice work!
I'll be another "expert" and say I might have used sharp sand as it weathers better. Love your vids nevertheless.
Very helpful , Thank you!
Have you painted that exterior wall yet? I've got a house with very similar walls that also need painting. Looking forward to your video on it.
Three video series about to start. This week's will be all about filling the cracks in the render, followed by the gutters and then painting the outside 👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte Excellent, looking forward to it, thanks
I find this particular video strangely appealing - watching it the third time. Please help me!