DIY Chimney Crown repair
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- DIY Chimney Crown repair. I show you all the steps I used (chipping out the old crown, cutting plywood (I recommend using 1/2" Hardie Backer), expansion joint, installing mesh, troweling the mortar, applying sealer, high temperature silicone in expansion joint & new cap) to repair this chimney crown.
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#Chimney #Crown #Repair #DIY
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Hi Ed here from OSHA. Trying to call you about your invisible safety belt. Excellent job by the way!
Excellent, no frittering-about, just got in there and worked!
Very educational. I have a contractor that has been at my house twice now and the thing leaks worst than it ever did...I will use this info. Thank you!
could be cracked grout or flashing as well.
Good job thank you!!!! God bless. I had mine looked at today and I need heat shield. I have 2 two story chimneys and the mortar is no bueno lol. Do you know anything about that? God bless you for this beautiful work.
Is my chimney's been laken and I think I know the problem I have none on mine. Thanks I'm gonna follow your steps and hopefully it does STOP LEAKING!!!!!!
The man that's trying to build-up my credit score from Indianapolis 🇺🇲
Beautiful work. In cold climates, a 1 or 2 inch overhang is needed to prevent water from running down the sides of the chimney. This causes spalling of the brick from freeze/thaw cycling.
Exactly my experience as well and is what is typically required by standards. The brick degrades so much faster with these tapered edge chimney washes.
Excellent job and a good tutorial. However, I would not use the plywood. Perhaps some other kind of material like Hardy back or something less prone to warp of fire. Thank you very much!!
Everything looked correct except next time use concrete backer board instead of plywood. I’ve seen numerous wooden supports like this turn into charcoal underneath which causes the chimney crown to fail over time. Other then that, great job
Great job, But I agree with the above I would have used slate instead of plywood. It doesn't warp, rot or expand and the mortar would have bonded much better to it.
Not to mention it's against code to have combustible material incorporated into a chimney build. Sorry but He doesn't know what he's doing.
Dude, the intro with the sound of beer pouring, and the blooper at the end...lmao. Nice work too, btw!
“Im not tired, you’re tired!” Best line ever! 🤣
Thank you very much, I am using your video to fix my chimney 😅😊
I’m never gonna be able to do this, but it still gives me an idea of what I need to ask to get done. The crown on my chimney is old and cracked fairly significantly. WHO do I talk to, to assess all of the damage? A mason or chimney sweep? Good video!
Thanks Ross! I would contact a mason to give you an estimate. A chimney sweep might also do it, but most likely they will refer you to a mason. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Brick mason
Doesn’t the plywood expand and contract allowing the crown to crack again, plus it’s combustible? Could you use cement board or thinner wire mesh to achieve the same goal?
Thank you
I don't have any problems with using plywood in my area (dry climate), plus I checked for any cracks in my clay liner. I recommend using a Hardie backer cement board if you live in a area that gets a lot of moisture or if you have cracks in the clay liner. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
@@WillowsWorldofDIY Thank you!
The temperature of most flues at the top of the chimney is less than that of either the boiler or fireplace at the point of combustion, and rarely exceed 200 degrees F, well below the burning point of plywood (around 250 F, depending on thickness; n.b., some flues can emit temps in excess of 400 F, but, those are, usually, short stacks, such as those used for a backyard, brick, oven). Adding an expansion joint, such that the wood does not come into direct contact with the flue, further reduces the temperature by as much as 50 F, depending on the distance/width of the joint (3/8" is industry standard). So, the odds of the plywood burning are very low, assuming everything else is done, correctly, which, unfortunately, even professional masons can screw up. However, having said all this, a metal plate or cement board is the professional choice, since neither will expand/contract/burn under normal environmental and chimney temps. Do a search on repairing/replacing chimney crowns, and you may be very surprised at the different opinions, not to mention that not all rules apply to all types of chimneys, not to mention zoning regulations, which, usually, express minimum values, and may be too limited for a given application.
@@skaizun Thank you!
Superb demonstration. Really appreciate your efforts. 👍
I just have a few cracks…what a nice job you did!
good job on the prep!
This video was really awesome ! … very efficient .. it shows in a relatively short vid the very important details that you definitely need … I’ve just come across your page for the first time and I’m already eager to watch the other vids you made!
thank you so much !
You’re a good podcaster and mason 😅
Thanks for the video!! Great work!! I’m trying to bid this same job. How long did it take you?
What a beautiful job 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
I work on chimneys here in california but I never seen anyone use plywood to close off those openings. I've seen some technicians use lath.
Excellent job sir.
What do think about extending the crown over the edge of brick for a drip edge? Seems like a good idea.
I definitely think a drip edge is a good idea and will extend the life of the chimneys brick and mortar joints. Thanks for watching!
This was a great video, perfect speed, fantastic explanations. Thank you
Is the plywood/backer board free floating until concrete is installed or do you screw the backer board to something?? Is the overhang of the hole 1” or what’s the backer board lip to edge?
@@sjzimmy I put screws in each corner slightly at an angle wedging the screws against the inside of the block opening, yes backer board overhang is 1”. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
The video is solid but a couple of questions? Why did you use mortar for the cap? Concrete is so much better and durable. how did you secure the wood to the chimney ? 2" screws in the brick? Why didn't you extend the cap so the water doesn't run down the bricks?
I use reinforced concrete. Fast Set Hi Strength Concrete. The result is better. But your work is good too.
Great video all around. 👍
You did an excellent job filming and editing the video.
Couple things I noticed...
The crown should be bigger than the bricks, to allow water to shed easily. The water running down the side will erode the bricks-and-mortar.
The wire mesh you installed should be in the middle of the crown, the crown is hardly thick enough.
That's true. I thought about doing a 2" drip edge all the way around it, but I looked at all my neighbors chimneys and not one of them had a drip edge on the chimney crown. I think they did it this way because the top 2 rows of brick steps out about 1" more than the rest of the bricks creating a drip edge. I did put sealer on the bricks and mortar to hopefully protect it from erosion. Time will tell if it will last. So far it still looks great after the first winter and we got quite a bit of snow this year. Thanks for your advice & Thanks for watching!
What you did is called a Flush Crown (ends flush with brick). Many masons do this so can leave same day. NOT good for longevity of brick and Chimney. Should ALWAYS be concrete crown to hold up longer. Thermal break great against flue, should also be between brick and crown.
Good observations. This guy Willow knows nothing about chimney crowns. If he’s charging homeowners for repairs like this, he’s hosing people. And creating more maintenance repair calls soon after he’s done. Lots of information out there showing the right way to do a crown. Ignore this Willow guy!!
@@joshjepkema1141 are you saying there should be space between the crown and the brick? That doesn't even make sense..
@@carlosmorgado7397 yes you should have a break, we use 30# felt between concrete and brick as well as the flues. Flues grow upwards when they heat up.
Question should you have cleaned mortar sooner so it doesn't leave all that residue.
Great video, you have given me the info and confidence to tackle my chimney crown. Hardie backer board is a great suggestion for the mortar base. The only thing I wasn’t really clear about is how you screwed your plywood down into the brick. Did you use expansion anchors?
Thanks again
Bye for now
Chris
In this video I screwed the screws into open joints between the bricks and then packed the joints with mortar afterwards. Not all chimneys will have open joints like mine did, so I would recommend using Tapcon concrete screws to anchor the Hardie backer to the bricks or in the mortar joints. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Good video....thank you!
Loved the video. Very entertaining!
Nice job done
Great Job! I have a question about the sealant you used. Did the tube specified that it was "Indoor/Outdoor" as well as if could be used on concrete/mortar? I can't seem to find the proper sealant Thank you for creating the video!
Great work & awesome video!
Thanks Bandit!
super nice job
I'm never done chimney work, but from what I do know about similar types of work, it looks like you did an excellent job. Thanks for sharing.
Damn dude! Nice job man! Did some good work therr
I had a dude paint the crown after he installed it and now it’s peeling …. Should I seal instead of painting the new one ?
perfect demo! Thanks for the good info!
Why caulk to a clay flu ? Pretty impressed with results with not pouring for such a big crown
I used Hi Temp silicone to allow room for expansion of the clay flu when it gets hot. Leaving a little room for the clay flu to expand when it gets hot will help prevent the clay flu from cracking in the future. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Use concrete board for the open cavities also pour concrete for your crown with a minimum of 4 inches thick and 1.5 inches overhang
Nice work!
1. The mesh needs to be in the concrete. Not under it. 2. The crown needs to be larger then then chimney. So, you need to build a form around the chimney. 3. I have never seen a chimney cap put on with silicone.
Using a hammer drill and drilling with maybe a qtr inch bit into a few spots in that old mud that was on the flue... is usually a safe way to help break up mortar before u start chiseling. 👍
Willow
You can use plywood to support the wash you installed it looks good but not right. Look it up wood forms shall be removed
Excellent work!
how much would you charge for a job like this?
Great job!
well done my friend. simple yet effective. diy. why cant all women be like this video. oh snap. here we go. lol
Been in the chimney business over a year now. Do not use combustible material that close to a chimney flue. Use durock instead
Looks great!
How much should a job like this cost? I have a similar sized chimney to yours and I got a quote to replace it with a metal crown for $1700. Is that fair?
Thanks for taking the time to make the video! What kind of mortar should I use? Why did you use mortar instead of concrete?
I used Quikrete mortar in this video. Concrete is stronger than mortar but is harder to shape, and is a lot harder remove when it fails. Most chimney crowns are done with mortar, I would say at least 90% of them, if not more. The crown is not load bearing so concrete is not needed. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Hi Willow, thanks for the quick response! I will do as you suggest. I have cleared away the old crown and will create a new one with Quikrete mortar mix. I am thinking of using type s if that is alright. Again, thank you for the well thought out and produced video.
@@really2345 Thanks! Type S will work great on the chimney crown. Make sure you seal it with a good concrete sealer or crown coat. I recommend using 1/2" Hardy Backer board instead of the plywood if you live in an area that gets a lot of moisture or if there is any visible cracks in the liner. I hope this is helpful. Thanks again!
@@WillowsWorldofDIY Thank you for the advice. Will do as you suggest.
Nice job man .... I’m looking to have this done on my chimney , I do understand your video is called diy but I’m interested in knowing how much should this chimney repair cost ( knowing most job aren’t exactly the the same , even a ball park figure would be helpful. Thanks in advance
I'm not sure what a professional mason in your area would charge. I would of charged about $1000 for this chimney crown repair in this video. Depending on where you live, how high up the crown is and cost of supplies could drive the price up. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
I don't know if I'll ever repair my chimney crown, but if I do, I hope it looks as good as this one!
Mortar is not the best thing to use for the cap, when used in that thickness it will usually crack. Concrete is much better, we usually use a premixed concrete called Quikrete 5000, it is a high strength concrete that comes in 60 or 80 pound bags, you just add water and mix. But be careful not to add to much water, you want to keep it on the stiff side. This will make it easier to shape, also helps from smearing up the brick like he did, it will give you a higher strength concrete and reduce the chance of a shrinkage crack. Best is to form and pour a concrete cap with a 1-1/2 overhang. If you do it like he did with no forms, try to keep your edges at least 2” thick. Instead of wood you can also use several prices of 3/8” rebar with the wire mesh over top, but make sure the rebar ends stop at least 2” from the edges. Many chimneys are not hollow like that one so then you would not need to use wood or mesh on top.
I've ran into thousands of Chimneys believe me most if not all crowns are done improperly.
Wouldn't it be better to use aluminum or stainless steel sheeting instead of plywood on base of crown ?
I’ve never used aluminum or stainless but I do recommend using hardy backer cement board instead of plywood especially if you live in an area that gets lots of moisture. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
@@WillowsWorldofDIY Thanks I know the hardy backer is used in bathroom tub and shower applications. 👍
Good job my friend thanks for sharing this video from Philippines SUBOK BOY
Looks great! Did you drill into the bricks to put the wood boards down?
Great video. Great job!
Wow...excellently done. Watching this just proves to me that I'm in over my head. Hahaha
Holy shit I'm going to be able to do this myself. Thank you!
A really nice job, well done!
dude --- excellent work. can you please come to Texas and do mine? your professionalism showed in every step. verrry nice!
nice video. i need to do a similar project.. can you tell me specifically what type of cement is used for this. I am in the Chicago area where we have lots of cold. Not sure if that matters. Also, do you use the same cement for repointing?
I used 3 80lb bags of Quickrete Mortar for this chimney crown, and I used the same mortar for the entire crown, this House is located in Colorado and they definitely get snow. I know some people that use Quickrete Cement for added strength and longevity but it is harder to shape during repointing. You will have to use a different wire mesh with larger holes if you decide to use cement instead of mortar. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
@kunta kinte yeah its flammable and expands/contracts with temp changes. Don't want to crack mortar
That is some fantastic work. You should be very proud of the job. Great video.
Thank you very much!
excellent
Beautiful red-nosed pitty at the end. We had one for 15 years. Best dog ever. What is the purpose of the plastic on the wet cement, to prevent cracking when its drying?
Thanks Jeff! Miss B is my helper and is in most of my videos. I agree they are the best dogs ever. Yes, I cover the wet concrete with a tarp to prevent cracking while drying. Thanks for watching!
It helps keep the mortar from drying too quickly, which is what can cause the cracking.
It’s called a wet cure. U do this while the chemicals are reacting still. Concrete and mortar take 30 days to fully cure although most of it happens in the first 24 hr
Good job!
Excellent video! I'm off to Home Depot to buy supplies. Rains coming this weekend....
Awesome timelapse and video... Looked like a perfect day to do that. Im gonna tackle this myself in Spring but use backerboard instead of plywood. Subscribed.
Looks great. Great job!
The sill expansion wrap is pointless in this case. It’s mortared at the bottom so it’s not going to expand regardless. You’d have to replace the whole piece. AND you didn’t make an overhang so the water is going to run Right down those joints and erode the mortar out of the joints
Hi , What name brand silicone did you use?
High Temperature RTV Silicon: amzn.to/38q8XtN I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Great.. thanks and nice job
11/4/2023 - How many hours to complete the task?
Just subscribed! Is it necessary to always remove the old mortar from the crown? My existing mortar is very thin and only cracked around the corners of the crown. Would it be dumb to just mortar over it?
the new mortar won't adhere properly to the existing mortar, so it won't last long and will start cracking away from the existing mortar. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Do you secure plywood with tap cons into brick? I missed that part😀
Plywood?
What kind of mortar did you use? Thanks!
Normal Quickrete Mortar. Thanks for watching!
Love your videos! Great work, nice and clean
Thanks! I'm so glad you love my videos! Thanks you so much for watching!
That is what I need to do for my chimney. Work like that how much could be cost to me? I live in San Diego, CA.
I got quoted $1900 for this plus cleaning smh
How much mortar did you use for that job? I have a similar sized chimney. Great video. Thanks for the knowledge.
I bought 3 80lbs bags of mortar and used 2 and about 3/4 of the 3rd bag. Thanks for watching!
You are not supposed to use mortar on the cap. You use concrete last so much longer. Also, he didn't make his cap to extend a little past the bricks. Water on brick not good
@@TheGucciman007 This minus the concrete. Yes it does last longer but when it does fail, it is a bitch to clean off versus mortar. It isn't load bearing so mortar is just fine especially if you mix some fine sand in with it to give it more strength. 99% of the time, chiney crowns are mortar. But I agree, there needs to be an overhang else you will always have water running down your chimney to one of the weakest points on the roof...the flashing between roof and chimney. Build a simple 2x4 box around the top and it gives you a 1.5 inch overhang. Most code calls for 2in but let's be honest...nobody is gonna measure it and if they do, .5 will be overlooked. And the frame is easy to remove. The biggest worry I have is him using plywood for the support. Should have used sheet metal or a rebar grid. Don't know if he knows that wood near a clay chimney is not good. But he looks to be in California or somewhere out SouthWest so he probably has gas anyways.
That looks awesome!
how much for the job
I'm not a Professional Chimney Mason but I would charge $1000-$1200 to do a chimney crown like the one in this video.
Excellent video, thanks so much.
I had no idea plywood is in there. Is this normal. Doesn' it get hot or have issues with the wood in there?
Durock sheets intead of plywood. Always use non combustible material
Great work, do you remember how many hours it took you to do the whole thing?
I think it took about 6 hours total. It took about 4-1/2 hours the first day to do the tare out, cut the wood and wire mesh, pour and shape the mortar and cover it with the tarp. The 2nd day took about 1-1/2 hours to seal the concrete, fill the expansion gap and install the chimney cap. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
@@WillowsWorldofDIY 3
I have a question in regards to what wire mesh brand you used ?
It is expanded metal sheet I think it the brand is Everbilt, I got it from Home depot. I hope this is helpful. I think for watching!
Didy gou useactual morteror concrete on the top?
What mortar did you use
I used regular Quikrete mortar.
Wow! Great work. Really clear explanation and helpful tips along the way. Curious. What mortar mix did you use? Have you ever run into a damaged clay liner? Can that be repaired as well?
Thanks Jed! I used normal Quikrete Mortar in this video, you can use type S mortar for additional strength. If the clay liner is damaged I usually try to replace it if possible, but it really depends on how bad the damage is, and where the damage is in the chimney. You can use product called Heat Shield to coat the inside of a cracked clay liner to repair it or install a Stainless steel liner. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
There is no drip edge.
You've should frame ut out with drip edge,and pour concrete with metal lath. Thats right way when you do new chimney crown
Willow doesn’t know what the heck he’s doing. Unless this is an example of a quick fix for a real estate flip. He's a real hack
What about ventilation?
No overhang?
15 year chimney guy here. I admire your willingness, but there is so much wrong here it's scary. If you're watching this video DO NOT do this. Cement board instead of combustible plywood, have a drip edge, do not silicone the cap on, try not to get mortar all over the brick etc etc etc.
Should we use concrete or mortar for the cap?
I'm not tired! Your tired!!!
The problem I have with my chimney is that squirrels are getting inside the flue or chute
Installing a chimney cap should prevent the squirrels from getting inside the flue or chute. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Willow. That's my own name too. Are you by any chance near Kansas City Mo? I would hire you!!(edit: if not, how much should this cost? Top of chimney is 6' above a 2-story house)
Sorry I don't live near KC. I'm not sure what a professional chimney mason would charge to do this repair and It's hard to say without seeing it. I would probably charge $1000 for my single story and It cost me about $270 in materials to repair my own chimney crown. So a ruff guess on your 2 story without seeming it would probably be $1500-$2000. That's a long way up Carrying 5 gallon buckets of mortar. I hope you can find someone good to repair yours. Make sure that they install an expansion gap around the clay liner. When the clay liner gets hot it expands and will crack the motor and the clay liner and won't last very long If the expansion gap is not installed. I hope you found this video helpful. Thanks for watching!
@@WillowsWorldofDIY oh my. In my younger days, I'd climb up a ladder and paint a sign 30' AGL...still have the fearlessness but at my age, it's synonymous with foolhardiness! 😣Thanks for the fine advice!!!
Willow, it's Ms Willow. ..a neighbor, from Mexico, climbed up there and did the job with his older boss (guess he's 65) for $300!! Guess God must have sent them to help ,keeping me off the roof!
@@julieclemons6701 Wow Ms Willow!! That's Great!!! I'm so glad you didn't have to get up there yourself. $300 is only $30 more than it cost me to do my chimney crown. I think you got a really good deal!!
@@WillowsWorldofDIY How did your materials cost $270?
What holds the middle pipe in place?
The middle pipe as you call it, also known as a chimney flue, is stacked in 2 ft sections directly on top of each other, (supposed to be) held together by heat-rated masonry. Below the top of the brick and mortar, there should be a minimal space between the flue, and other bricks around it for stability. I would also note, this is absolutely the wrong way to install a chimney crown, and this guy has absolutely no idea what he's doing. He laid plywood underneath the crown, the crown itself is hardly 2" thick, he used mortar instead of concrete (his reasoning because it's easier, easier doesn't mean it's right), and he stated in the comments that he put a water sealer on the masonry. There's a vast difference between water sealers and water proofers, and in most cases, those who don't know use water sealers on chimneys which leads to faster deterioration of the masonry over time. This was an absolutely terrible job, and I'm not even in the chimney industry anymore.
@@yoitspuaphan I had a guy come out and take a look at my chimney, it was built in the 30s out of rock and is still in good shape. He recommended running stainless still flue to the top. Installing a new wood burning stove this winter and was trying to educate myself on all of the things needed. Cap also needs replacing. He quoted 1600 to install the wood stove, the flue and cap. Is this a good deal?
@@robertedwards2453 It's too good of a deal. It's so good I'd be worried about what he's doing for you. What you need to do is look up CSIA certified chimney sweeps in your area. Having a fireplace, especially a wood stove, is a HUGE deal, and it could be the difference of having a safe fire, and burning your house down. So the question I'd ask is this: is it worth it to you to be cheap, and rig something that may not work, or invest the extra money to have a safe, functioning fire. Also, with EPA regulations that have gone into effect in 2020 (May I think), only certain types of wood stoves can be sold and installed. The EPA has changed regulations for wood stoves to cut down on emissions. That said, 95% of things that were made prior to 2019 did not meet compliance, and had to be redesigned to meet this requirement. I say that to say, anybody selling you a cheap product, less than $3,000, probably doesn't know what they're doing.
@@robertedwards2453 Now, I will say this: the concept of installing a wood stove in an old flue and fireplace isn't a bad idea, but you have to make sure that it's safe what it's going into. Most stainless steel liners for wood stoves aren't class A, meaning they allow substantial heat to pass through the liner. If there's anything combustible in or near your old chimney, or you have gaps that could allow heat to pass through it, you could be in serious trouble. I say all that to say, I was a certified chimney sweep with the CSIA in my area, but I have since gotten out of the business and am doing something else.
@@yoitspuaphan there was already a wood stove insert in the fireplace, I just wanted to update it to a more efficient model. The business installing this fire place and doing the other work is the same business. I was just going to install the fireplace and nothing else but he recommended doing the stainless steel liner and a new cap. I wasnt thinking of old mortor possibly having cracks do to the age. It was build in the 30s but appears to have been built to last because I cant find any cracks anywhere. But I know I should follow his advice jist wasn't sure what something like this would cost.