Hi Everyone, In this episode, we get back to the front suspension. We had some problems with the shocks and that really set us back :( I had to dismantle much of what I did so we could send all four shocks back. What a mess (literally!). I also get some great advice from our friend Lou Trottier (So sorry for the mispronunciation!!). Lou is a real trained mechanic and a great storyteller. You really owe it to yourself to give his channel a visit :)
Love Lou - Love his enthusiasm and channel a bit more that he is helping my friends Heidi and Franny with their own 308. For those who don't know Lou Trottier look him up on TH-cam and give his videos a look. Great content, great guy - no BS.
I have done a ton of suspension work on Porsche, VW, BMW and Domestic cars. Being from the Midwest it’s always an ordeal (with exception of the Porsche) due to rust etc…. It really satisfying to watch you work in these machines in such great condition. Love your channel!!!!
I've seen a similar deal on a Diablo and another Ferrari. What's amazing is they have to go through back and forth about 4 times before they finally ship something that works. How can such an expensive part that is suppose to be specialty have this happened. Seems like some real garbage companies. I think Giuseppe had too much Mozzarella and wine for lunch.
@@Extraneus73 a) The shock absorbers are Koni which is a Dutch manufacturer, b) the shock absorbers are from a 40+ yr old car, c) these shock absorbers were taken off the car and sent to a company that reconditioned them and obviously didn’t do a good job the first time,,I’m tipping that the business that reconditioned them were an American company so again l stand by my original comment of why the racial verification..
Great job Franny...as usual....We love what you are doing, we love your methodic way of working, your tidiness, and, most importantly, your know how! Best wishes from a frozen Montreal!
Thanks so much! I know, right? I wouldn't think they would be that complicated to repair. I sent a message to Scott also. He just got all six done on the BBi. I hope he was better luck. They do look nice though ;)
A few years back l bought a pair of reconditioned Komi shocks for my 328 from a very reputable Ferrari Specialist/Workshop in the UK and when they arrived l found one of them leaking oil just like the the ones in your video.. As l am located on the other side of the world, it wasn’t cost feasible to send them back so l Had them both redone locally.. I was wondering if that possibly the pressurisation in the cargo hold in the plane make have caused it to leak..if you have ever seen what happens to a pack of potato chips when you are in a plane you would understand what l mean.. Just a loose theory though
You're making progress and it is looking so good. Crossing fingers your 'news shocks hold up. I like to paint a thin line on torqued nuts across both the nut and the end of the bolt, so that a later inspection shows at a glance if the nut has rotated. Provides peace of mind, especially on front suspension components.😏
I can't wait to hear your feedback regarding the first drive!! This will be better than new. As for the alignment, it will be close enough to get to the shop. Considering the wear having been compensated for... it will be kinda close
When I heard about the fires in Colorado the first people I thought about were you and Heidi. I don't know what part of the state you are in but aparantly you were not affected. Thank God! I would use the old race against the new race to Install it. It's been a while but those shocks were rebuilds, right? I had a neighbor, who is a back yard mechanic, install my lower control arms. He has a pit he put in. When I asked him if he lowered the car before torquing those bolts he just looked at me and never said anything. So was that a "I don't know what you're talking about" look, or was it a "what, am I stupid?" look. Don't know! Will never know. Lol See you next time and stay safe. P.S. Did you put Heidi's nail polish back? Just asking. Lol
We were 10-15mi from those fires. So tragic. I think close to 1000 homes and businesses were lost. These weren't home up in the mountains surrounded by trees - they were just a normal subdivision on the western section of town. With winds over 100 mph (we had gust up to 117mph) and no real rain since summer it was a recipe for disaster. All it took was one shed up wind to catch fire for whatever reason and that was that. There were two fires that day and the fire departments got the first one out, but lost the second one. We had 5" of snow the next day. It will take more than two years to rebuild all that. I can't imagine what those folks are going through. We had a similar fire a little over a year ago and barely got it out but the time it got to the fences of the neighbors across the street. Scary stuff! We filmed a bit of it in the episode we installed the engine in the 3.2 Carrera. Funny about the nail polish ;) Heidi and I we wondering if it was hers or mine. I think it was mine ;)
@@HeidiandFranny I saw on the news yesterday about the fire starting on some religious sect compound. They are still investigating. Glad you two are safe. You wear the same polish color? Lol
Hi Franny and Heidi, Another great video. You probably already know this stuff, but I learned a lot about torquing fasteners from Mike Busch (Savvy Aviataion). He has done lots of TH-cam videos about aviation mechanicals.It’s amazing the difference between old nuts and new and lubricated and dry. He said that the most accurate way to measure a fastener pre load stretch is with a micrometer (most times impractical to do).Almost as accurate is turn angle past first contact. Least accurate is old nuts, because the friction varies so much. I love seeing how through you are torquing everything. Keep up the good work. Hope to drive my Continental coupe to Colorado for an event next Summer. See you then.
Thanks so much James! I have a suspicion that the factory wasn't super careful about torqueing or the actual values... The manual seems to contradict itself in a few places and there are a few typo/errors too... You are very right that there is a big difference between dry and lubricated. Unfortunately they do end up somewhat lubricated because of the need to lube the bolts. Also, all the nuts are lock nuts which may not add much to the torque spec, but I try to get as close as I can. I'm guessing most folks just get things "tight enough" ;)
Hey granny my uncle is an old school mechanic and his top tip for greasing bearing is to heat the grease in a sauce pan to turn it liquid and the pour it into the ball race of the bearing as liquid and when it cools it returns to grease. I though it was a cool idea and I have done it a few time since worked well.
Thanks for that it was fascinating watching everything go back together. I always wondered what the coloured bolts meant. Also I had some new Koni yellow sport shocks installed on my Alfa Romeo GTV V6 3.0L and they were seeping oil at the top from the fronts and the rears started to squeak also. In retrospect I wasn’t a real fan of konis and will try to avoid them If I can preferring bilstein. But I can understand in this situation if your Konis were original.
That's really interesting. That's too bad. Koni has such a good reputation. I just got a set to replace what is on the rear of the 356. Hmmm... I'll inspect them carefully. Thanks!
Your restraint when talking about all that wasted work and time due to the faulty shocks is admirable. Unless that's just editing trickery, lol. Any idea why the shocks leaked?
They didn't say beyond "bas seals". They normally have then "rest" for a few days before shipping. Evidentially they were ok originally at that point. I sure hope they are good. They seem fine so far...
The supplied nut would be just fine as the jam nut is the lock. But also I would use the better beefier hardware and often use the stock nuts on stuff like that because the new stuff is smaller.
Whilst in theory you should always torque the nut, the amount of additional friction along the length of the bolt with all-new and thoroughly cleaned components is negligible. The higher the torque figure the less this matters too, so in the case of such large bolts and high torque figures it will make zero difference in this application.
I wonder how important torque settings really are? Iain Tyrell has made some interesting comments about having an "engineer's feel" for how tight a joint should be. If I remember correctly, he was apprentice trained at Rolls Royce and said something to the effect that people would get into trouble for using a torque wrench! Anyway Franny, another interesting video and good to see some progress with the 308.
Hmmm. I would never argue with Iain to be sure :) The man is a master. The torque specs are the engineers instructions based on the strength of the fastener and the amount of clampage needed for the assembly. They can get a bit complicated, but on cylinder heads the actual torque value is much lower than what the studs and nuts can handle because when the engine heats up and expands, if the nuts were on too tight then they would then pull out due to the strain. For CV joints the bolts are not intended to carry the shear - that is carried by the friction of the compression when torqued down properly. Flywheels are similar. In this case with the suspension I think the idea is to tighten everything up but mostly for the bolts not to come off or be relied upon in shear. The specs from Ferrari are a bit confusing and I'm guessing there might have been some "variation" on the factory floor ;)
@@HeidiandFranny I think it's very important with cylinder heads to use the correct torque and to tighten bolts in the correct sequence. I'm also a stickler for following manufacturer's instructions, but if you have a feel for what you are doing it's probably not necessary to use a torque wrench for every single bolt. As I've commented before, I really like the way you work!
Tyrell's videos are great too, and he certainly does some remarkable work. I, too, over the years heard many stories about Rolls Royce and the fact they eschewed the use of torque wrenches. Unfortunately, one of my main jobs as an engineer for many years was to provide independent engineering reports to courts when people were injured or killed in workplace accidents. After a number of incidents that resulted from 'torqued to feel' fasteners I undertook a study that involved a number of very experienced engineers and mechanics to see how close their experienced feel got them to the required fastener stretch. In pretty much all cases they over-torqued smaller fasteners and significantly under-torqued large ones. Both outcomes can lead to catastrophic failures. Each participant who took part was provided with a result from the test and without fail they were very surprised by the results. 'Feel' works well within a certain range of bolt sizes - typically just either side of 3/8 inch thread (in the old money), but the further you get away from that range the less accurate is 'feel'. I would always recommend using a torque wrench where practicable to do so.
I would think that distance from head of torque wrench would alter the torque by leverage. I dont think it matters on the A arm bolts and bushings as they are beefy and wont just snap off with a little over torque. try out your wrench grabber on a bolt and nut you put in a vice versus the torque wrench. I think it will be a ratio equal to the inches the off center grows. ie if you have the grabber 4in from the wrench head. you will now be working in 16in" to the tourqe pound.
You can work out the math. If the two are at 90deg then the torque delivered will be what the wrench is set for. If they are inline (or any other angle) then you will need to reduce your torque wrench accordingly. I know it feels a little weird, but the math checks out.
Sorry to learn that 2 of the 4 shocks were leaking oil. Glad the vendor corrected the problem. I am also concerned about the long-term durability of all 4 shocks. Did the vendor provide any feedback?
I guess that the shocks were sent to you by air. Air pressure changes in the delivery aircraft would have contributed to those leaks and I bet a second assembly person put the two fronts together. Torqueing up is such fun :)
@@HeidiandFranny Here's a related thoughts: but what about airplane landing gear? Do they have shocks? Do they care about altitude changes? I'm guessing not.
I didn't get anything past "the seals were bad". Not sure how that can happen, but I have heard of others in the comments saying the same. Not good for sure...
No need to if the two are at 90deg... If they are at any other angle then you are correct you will have to reduce your torque setting to compensate for the additional distance. The math is a little weird but it works out.
@@HeidiandFranny well, he doesn't work on exotic cars, and don't do restorations, so you are right. However, He is right about Japanese after Market brands that he rocommends. Such as KYB shocks, NGK spark Plugs, Akebono brake pads, Nippon Denso parts.
@@HeidiandFranny , a friend used to use nail varnish as thread lock for kart racing (the engines would have the heads off regularly for a checkup, even between races)
@@HeidiandFranny Ok. You need to figure out where the leak is. Sometimes the shaft corrodes minutely beyond eye capability and the seal does not work anymore. Can also happen with the end plug of the tube - the thread corrodes and you need to use thread sealer. An installation mistake might make one damper leak but you got two - makes it sort of semi-systematic :))))
Hi Everyone,
In this episode, we get back to the front suspension. We had some problems with the shocks and that really set us back :( I had to dismantle much of what I did so we could send all four shocks back. What a mess (literally!). I also get some great advice from our friend Lou Trottier (So sorry for the mispronunciation!!). Lou is a real trained mechanic and a great storyteller. You really owe it to yourself to give his channel a visit :)
Instructive, clever and pedagogical as always. You are a star!
Love Lou - Love his enthusiasm and channel a bit more that he is helping my friends Heidi and Franny with their own 308. For those who don't know Lou Trottier look him up on TH-cam and give his videos a look. Great content, great guy - no BS.
100%! Lou is a great guy, generous and knowledgeable. So happy to call him a friend :)
Nice work! Ferrari originally would have used yellow paint to mark the fasteners but now anyone that looks will see this got the Franny touch :)
Thanks! I have seen that. I guess I need to find a yellow paint pen :)
I have done a ton of suspension work on Porsche, VW, BMW and Domestic cars. Being from the Midwest it’s always an ordeal (with exception of the Porsche) due to rust etc…. It really satisfying to watch you work in these machines in such great condition. Love your channel!!!!
Thanks so much! Let me know if you see anything amiss :)
Well done Heidi, three great channels in one, Heidi, Lou and Ratarossa! 👍
great work as usual . slightly concerned for the long-term reliability of those shocks given 2 out of 4 never made it out the box 🤞
I've seen a similar deal on a Diablo and another Ferrari. What's amazing is they have to go through back and forth about 4 times before they finally ship something that works. How can such an expensive part that is suppose to be specialty have this happened. Seems like some real garbage companies. I think Giuseppe had too much Mozzarella and wine for lunch.
@@crazybastid85 So you automatically racially profiled the person responsible for reconditioning the shock absorbers?
@@rdenir When we really should be mocking the Belgians today!
@@rdenir It´s a Ferrari... Italian? Lighten up, Francis!
@@Extraneus73 a) The shock absorbers are Koni which is a Dutch manufacturer,
b) the shock absorbers are from a 40+ yr old car,
c) these shock absorbers were taken off the car and sent to a company that reconditioned them and obviously didn’t do a good job the first time,,I’m tipping that the business that reconditioned them were an American company so again l stand by my original comment of why the racial verification..
Great job Franny...as usual....We love what you are doing, we love your methodic way of working, your tidiness, and, most importantly, your know how! Best wishes from a frozen Montreal!
Thanks so much!!
Always great to watch your attention to detail Franny.
Thanks so much!
It's channels like this that crushes my fears of buying a 40 year-old Ferrari. Thank you!
So impressed with the work that you do Franny!! Like others a bit concerned at the long term longevity of those shocks..
Thanks so much! I know, right? I wouldn't think they would be that complicated to repair. I sent a message to Scott also. He just got all six done on the BBi. I hope he was better luck. They do look nice though ;)
A few years back l bought a pair of reconditioned Komi shocks for my 328 from a very reputable Ferrari Specialist/Workshop in the UK and when they arrived l found one of them leaking oil just like the the ones in your video..
As l am located on the other side of the world, it wasn’t cost feasible to send them back so l
Had them both redone locally..
I was wondering if that possibly the pressurisation in the cargo hold in the plane make have caused it to leak..if you have ever seen what happens to a pack of potato chips when you are in a plane you would understand what l mean..
Just a loose theory though
Super job as always. Like the way you get things powdercoated and plate things.👍
Great video as always. Top job, Franny
Nice work, fwiw, most bonafide mechanics would never take so much care. You are doing quality work franny.
Thanks so much!
The 308 is looking good! Happy 2022.
Great work Franny coming together really nicely 🤘
As always amazing video and information. I’m so lucky that you have the cars I have and do these projects. You have made my life so much easier!
Oh, that's great! Thanks so much :)
You're making progress and it is looking so good. Crossing fingers your 'news shocks hold up. I like to paint a thin line on torqued nuts across both the nut and the end of the bolt, so that a later inspection shows at a glance if the nut has rotated. Provides peace of mind, especially on front suspension components.😏
I was thinking the same. Better to do the line across the nut and bolt for quick visual inspection.
I can't wait to hear your feedback regarding the first drive!! This will be better than new.
As for the alignment, it will be close enough to get to the shop. Considering the wear having been compensated for... it will be kinda close
Great video and loved that you were wearing a Ratarossa shirt.
Scott is doing some really fun stuff over at Ratarossa!
When I heard about the fires in Colorado the first people I thought about were you and Heidi. I don't know what part of the state you are in but aparantly you were not affected. Thank God!
I would use the old race against the new race to Install it.
It's been a while but those shocks were rebuilds, right?
I had a neighbor, who is a back yard mechanic, install my lower control arms. He has a pit he put in.
When I asked him if he lowered the car before torquing those bolts he just looked at me and never said anything.
So was that a "I don't know what you're talking about" look, or was it a "what, am I stupid?" look. Don't know! Will never know. Lol
See you next time and stay safe.
P.S. Did you put Heidi's nail polish back? Just asking. Lol
We were 10-15mi from those fires. So tragic. I think close to 1000 homes and businesses were lost. These weren't home up in the mountains surrounded by trees - they were just a normal subdivision on the western section of town. With winds over 100 mph (we had gust up to 117mph) and no real rain since summer it was a recipe for disaster. All it took was one shed up wind to catch fire for whatever reason and that was that. There were two fires that day and the fire departments got the first one out, but lost the second one. We had 5" of snow the next day. It will take more than two years to rebuild all that. I can't imagine what those folks are going through. We had a similar fire a little over a year ago and barely got it out but the time it got to the fences of the neighbors across the street. Scary stuff! We filmed a bit of it in the episode we installed the engine in the 3.2 Carrera.
Funny about the nail polish ;) Heidi and I we wondering if it was hers or mine. I think it was mine ;)
@@HeidiandFranny I saw on the news yesterday about the fire starting on some religious sect compound. They are still investigating. Glad you two are safe.
You wear the same polish color? Lol
Hi Franny and Heidi, Another great video. You probably already know this stuff, but I learned a lot about torquing fasteners from Mike Busch (Savvy Aviataion). He has done lots of TH-cam videos about aviation mechanicals.It’s amazing the difference between old nuts and new and lubricated and dry. He said that the most accurate way to measure a fastener pre load stretch is with a micrometer (most times impractical to do).Almost as accurate is turn angle past first contact. Least accurate is old nuts, because the friction varies so much. I love seeing how through you are torquing everything.
Keep up the good work. Hope to drive my Continental coupe to Colorado for an event next Summer. See you then.
Thanks so much James! I have a suspicion that the factory wasn't super careful about torqueing or the actual values... The manual seems to contradict itself in a few places and there are a few typo/errors too... You are very right that there is a big difference between dry and lubricated. Unfortunately they do end up somewhat lubricated because of the need to lube the bolts. Also, all the nuts are lock nuts which may not add much to the torque spec, but I try to get as close as I can. I'm guessing most folks just get things "tight enough" ;)
@@HeidiandFranny 😊❤️
yes bolt often dictates torque or required amount of squeeze calls for a certain bolt. cool wrench grabber tool!
Hey granny my uncle is an old school mechanic and his top tip for greasing bearing is to heat the grease in a sauce pan to turn it liquid and the pour it into the ball race of the bearing as liquid and when it cools it returns to grease. I though it was a cool idea and I have done it a few time since worked well.
That's really interesting... That is pretty much what happens when those bearings run for a while :)
Thanks for that it was fascinating watching everything go back together. I always wondered what the coloured bolts meant. Also I had some new Koni yellow sport shocks installed on my Alfa Romeo GTV V6 3.0L and they were seeping oil at the top from the fronts and the rears started to squeak also. In retrospect I wasn’t a real fan of konis and will try to avoid them If I can preferring bilstein. But I can understand in this situation if your Konis were original.
That's really interesting. That's too bad. Koni has such a good reputation. I just got a set to replace what is on the rear of the 356. Hmmm... I'll inspect them carefully. Thanks!
Whilst I would normally laud keeping it original, at the end of the day I'd forego that over better quality every time.
Getting 2 faulty coilovers out of the box would've made me uncomfortable installing these all together, I would've returned the whole set.
At 1:36 she explains all 4 shocks were sent back to the shop and returned fixed.
Nice job 👏
Your restraint when talking about all that wasted work and time due to the faulty shocks is admirable. Unless that's just editing trickery, lol. Any idea why the shocks leaked?
They didn't say beyond "bas seals". They normally have then "rest" for a few days before shipping. Evidentially they were ok originally at that point. I sure hope they are good. They seem fine so far...
The supplied nut would be just fine as the jam nut is the lock. But also I would use the better beefier hardware and often use the stock nuts on stuff like that because the new stuff is smaller.
It feels like all of these are a bit over spec'ed... The original hardware is good quality as well.
Whilst in theory you should always torque the nut, the amount of additional friction along the length of the bolt with all-new and thoroughly cleaned components is negligible. The higher the torque figure the less this matters too, so in the case of such large bolts and high torque figures it will make zero difference in this application.
I'm looking forward to seeing how it rides and handles after all this work. I'm also very green with jealousy.
Me too!!! It has always been a little bangy. It feels a lot better going together so fingers crossed!
You arent the first I have heard that had issues rebuilding these shocks, even when sent back to the original manufacturer.
Thanks for that. It was a bit disappointing but the company did pay for all the shipping and put us at the front of the line.
Great job :)
Would you not Neel grease on sway bar bushes ?
I did with silicone grease :)
First Happy New Year 🙂
I wonder how important torque settings really are? Iain Tyrell has made some interesting comments about having an "engineer's feel" for how tight a joint should be. If I remember correctly, he was apprentice trained at Rolls Royce and said something to the effect that people would get into trouble for using a torque wrench! Anyway Franny, another interesting video and good to see some progress with the 308.
Hmmm. I would never argue with Iain to be sure :) The man is a master. The torque specs are the engineers instructions based on the strength of the fastener and the amount of clampage needed for the assembly. They can get a bit complicated, but on cylinder heads the actual torque value is much lower than what the studs and nuts can handle because when the engine heats up and expands, if the nuts were on too tight then they would then pull out due to the strain. For CV joints the bolts are not intended to carry the shear - that is carried by the friction of the compression when torqued down properly. Flywheels are similar. In this case with the suspension I think the idea is to tighten everything up but mostly for the bolts not to come off or be relied upon in shear. The specs from Ferrari are a bit confusing and I'm guessing there might have been some "variation" on the factory floor ;)
@@HeidiandFranny I think it's very important with cylinder heads to use the correct torque and to tighten bolts in the correct sequence. I'm also a stickler for following manufacturer's instructions, but if you have a feel for what you are doing it's probably not necessary to use a torque wrench for every single bolt. As I've commented before, I really like the way you work!
Tyrell's videos are great too, and he certainly does some remarkable work. I, too, over the years heard many stories about Rolls Royce and the fact they eschewed the use of torque wrenches. Unfortunately, one of my main jobs as an engineer for many years was to provide independent engineering reports to courts when people were injured or killed in workplace accidents. After a number of incidents that resulted from 'torqued to feel' fasteners I undertook a study that involved a number of very experienced engineers and mechanics to see how close their experienced feel got them to the required fastener stretch. In pretty much all cases they over-torqued smaller fasteners and significantly under-torqued large ones. Both outcomes can lead to catastrophic failures. Each participant who took part was provided with a result from the test and without fail they were very surprised by the results. 'Feel' works well within a certain range of bolt sizes - typically just either side of 3/8 inch thread (in the old money), but the further you get away from that range the less accurate is 'feel'. I would always recommend using a torque wrench where practicable to do so.
I would think that distance from head of torque wrench would alter the torque by leverage. I dont think it matters on the A arm bolts and bushings as they are beefy and wont just snap off with a little over torque. try out your wrench grabber on a bolt and nut you put in a vice versus the torque wrench. I think it will be a ratio equal to the inches the off center grows. ie if you have the grabber 4in from the wrench head. you will now be working in 16in" to the tourqe pound.
You can work out the math. If the two are at 90deg then the torque delivered will be what the wrench is set for. If they are inline (or any other angle) then you will need to reduce your torque wrench accordingly. I know it feels a little weird, but the math checks out.
sorry to hear that your koni shocks failed. once they were proudly made in holland. and top of the line.
We love them, they may have sat too long and it is on us.
Sorry to learn that 2 of the 4 shocks were leaking oil. Glad the vendor corrected the problem. I am also concerned about the long-term durability of all 4 shocks. Did the vendor provide any feedback?
Just that the seals had gone bad... It is a bit worrisome though.
Hey Heidi. You may have covered this before but what height is your garage ceiling in order to use the four post stacker type lift ?
I think they are about 11.5 feet. It is a tad close, but resetting the garage doors really helped.
I guess that the shocks were sent to you by air. Air pressure changes in the delivery aircraft would have contributed to those leaks and I bet a second assembly person put the two fronts together. Torqueing up is such fun :)
That's a thought.
@@HeidiandFranny Here's a related thoughts: but what about airplane landing gear? Do they have shocks? Do they care about altitude changes? I'm guessing not.
@@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261 Guess What, we finally made it to our Po Box. Thank you so much! That was a very thoughtful gift. We both loved it. 😍
@@HeidiandFranny a) You're welcome!
2) Please, code names only. 😄
@@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261 my bad. I will delete.
any reason given by the builder to why they were leaking? just curious if it was like the wrong seal used or something like that...
I didn't get anything past "the seals were bad". Not sure how that can happen, but I have heard of others in the comments saying the same. Not good for sure...
Hey at @6:35 using the wrench adapter is the torque wrench setting adjusted to compensate for the change in lever arm length ?
No need to if the two are at 90deg... If they are at any other angle then you are correct you will have to reduce your torque setting to compensate for the additional distance. The math is a little weird but it works out.
Rock stars
Is every 308 ever built being restored at the moment? World+dog seems to be busy with them.
I have never, ever used a torque wrench. I figure my arms know "tight" when they feel it.
That is too bad.
love the video. I over commented to feed the algorytim. not to be a know it all.
LOL! Thanks so much!
Well, Scotty Kilmer swears by Japanese KYB brand shock absorbers, but I don’t know if they make models that would fit Ferraris.
I can't imagine Scotty Kilmer in our garage. It's not a negative comment, I just can't visualize it. Heidi
@@HeidiandFranny well, he doesn't work on exotic cars, and don't do restorations, so you are right.
However, He is right about Japanese after Market brands that he rocommends. Such as KYB shocks, NGK spark Plugs, Akebono brake pads, Nippon Denso parts.
👍 👍 👍
the difference between a car mom and a pittbull, nail polish ;-)
I bet those Italian macho men just said "I toruqa it howa mucha it a needs bya my arma strength"
Lol
That's again very unnecessarily annoying.
Especially since it probably wasn't too cheap.
Correct. They were pretty pricy to get the originals completely rebuilt and restored. Let's hope they are good this time around.
Was that nail polish?
Yes.
@@HeidiandFranny , a friend used to use nail varnish as thread lock for kart racing (the engines would have the heads off regularly for a checkup, even between races)
You’re an example of perfection but why you refuse to paint your garage for once?
I don't want to spend the money on that. It is much more useful if I don't have to worry about the walls.
Chinese “Konis” … pirates?
They are the originals that we had rebuilt.
@@HeidiandFranny Ok. You need to figure out where the leak is. Sometimes the shaft corrodes minutely beyond eye capability and the seal does not work anymore. Can also happen with the end plug of the tube - the thread corrodes and you need to use thread sealer. An installation mistake might make one damper leak but you got two - makes it sort of semi-systematic :))))