Center wire on the distributor cap is for the ignition coil and the distributor cap distributes that spark from the ignition coil to the individual spark plugs👍 Great video, just happened upon your channel a couple minutes ago👍
It's great to see you build another big scale once again Tom. That engine looks fantastic and with your tips it will definitely help others that are building it too. I vote to complete it as it is, without re-spraying it. Well Done 👍🏼👍🏼
Nice build and great video. I really enjoy the voice over "rants" as you refer to it. Much more so than just random TH-cam royalty free music while watching you build.
Blue and white is the way to go imo, such an iconic look and it suits the car perfectly. I've seen a couple in a few different colours but none have looked as good to me and it's been the colour Shelby is most known for even to this day.
DEFINITELY blue with the white racing stripes, and that last short wire was to send the spark from the coil to the distributor. Love your work, Tom!! : )
I am building this at the moment. The instructions actually say you shouldn't need glue, they should be tight enough. I found that to be a bit 50-50. Some fit in fine no glue. But some didn't, so I eventually glued them all down.
my opinion is keep it blue man. classic look. I have a fujimi cobra that I may paint grabber orange tho to be different so whatever choice you make will be the right one, haha.
Just finished one of these a few months ago. You’ll have fun building it, but watch out for the step where you have to connect the two steering shafts. That’s way down the road, but you’ll want the pin inserted into the collar beforehand. Otherwise, once the engine is in place with the headers, it can be very tricky to put in.
It's cool to see building another 1/8 scale car I like the bigger builds really well and yeah I kind of like them blue and white myself I wouldn't change it I just bill it as it is
For my personal taste, blue with white stripes is the best choice. However i'm not completely sure about the interior: black seems a bit boring to me especially for this car. Have you considered leather interior or maybe white? Great job, can't wait to see the final result
@DePanny - That would depend on whether you wanted it to look like the actual Cobra or just wanted to stylize it yourself. The only interior color available was black.
DEFINITELY not criticizing your handiwork, but the discussion on the color what the cobra should be, I personally thing a British racing green might've looked pretty neat. kinda calls back to the European roots of the original AC Cobra
Like i said in the video. i do not plan on making it take as long as the GT500, that was a lot more work and took to long. This will be faster as i will nog modify it.
I didn't mean to sound rude, I like your channel and very nice guy of you for the montage of this car icon, and man, you contributed a lot to my knowledge of thumbnails, and let me know I'm a big fan of your channel
the body parts should be zamac ( zinc-alluminium alloy) like die-cast metal models are made....you can not polish zamac to mirror finish like alluminium, regardless of polishing method or clear coat at the end
@@Loulovesspeed, WOW! I couldn't even imagine paying that much for a model when I have real cars (two old Mustangs) in my garage that could benefit much from that kind of cash input. To each his own, enjoy your model, and thanks for updating me on the price.
@@Enigma-Sapiens - I have loved building and detailing model cars since around 1955, when they were priced around $1.50 each! I got bored building them though as they were not much of a challenge to build. When I first heard of the little family owned Italian company called Pocher and read that they were primarily built with metal screws and very little glue and had over 1,000 parts, I had to look further into them. When I saw the price of $150 I though wow, this must be one hell of a cool model for that huge sum, which it was around 1967. I saved for a good deal of time and finally bought one during my lunch hour at my Summer job. I brought it into the shop for the guys to see and when I opened the large box and they saw the many, many hundreds of machine screws in little clear bags stapled to the inside flaps of the box, they all laughed and said good luck trying to build that. Just about a year later I brought the finished model to work to show them that I indeed finished it and they were simply blown away! This was a Royal Typewriter service shop and all the guys were trained technicians, while I was just a high school kid with no training. I will say that I was respected a lot more after showing them what I had built.
Now that you’ve said it, it would be a shame if you didn’t go with the full brushed metal finish. That’s the only thing that would top the classic blue with white stripes. Would admittedly take a lot of effort and time, but that’s the fun part of building and pushing yourself.
I'm sure you've gone online and looked at many pictures. Cobra's look by FAR the BEST with no hoops, side-pipes and stripes, the way most of 'em came from the factory. (edit - after all these models how do you 1, not read the instructions first and 2, not know what a coil wire is??)
2 i’m not american or english. So don’t always know the correct translation. Plus i’m not a mechanic. Not even close. So some of those terms i simply don’t know..
@@TheScalemodelingChannel this is gonna sound ignorant but your voice and how fluent you are with english if you're not american or english what are you then?
@BubbaSmurft - I assume by "loops" you mean the roll bar. The handful of 427 Cobra S/Cs made all had the roll bar, side pipes and stripes. They were built as race cars first, but also potentially for the street. S/C = semi competition.
Keep the paint the model came with. Changing the Mustang paint elevated the model but changing a paint scheme that you like is not good use of your time.
These kits are not cheap. and making it a smaller monthly payment is more obtainable for a lot of people then it is to splurge out the big lump of cash to buy it all at once.
I'm thinkin' most folks don't do the math. You can buy a far nicer Exoto, AutoArt etc. car at the same or lower prices and actually have a collectible that will grow over time. I have several that have appreciated rather substantially over the last few years. (based on current sales prices vs. what I paid, not asking prices)
@@BubbaSmurft those are 1/8 and not 1/18, people who buy 1/8 models usualy dont have many of them + these DeAgostini, Altaya Agora 1/8 100-1500 bucks models are much cheaper as HQ 1/8 modelcars....a good 1/8 Amalgam cost 10 times this price, the 1/8 market is not so crowded like smaller scales
Center wire on the distributor cap is for the ignition coil and the distributor cap distributes that spark from the ignition coil to the individual spark plugs👍
Great video, just happened upon your channel a couple minutes ago👍
It's great to see you build another big scale once again Tom. That engine looks fantastic and with your tips it will definitely help others that are building it too. I vote to complete it as it is, without re-spraying it. Well Done 👍🏼👍🏼
Nice build and great video. I really enjoy the voice over "rants" as you refer to it. Much more so than just random TH-cam royalty free music while watching you build.
Blue and white is the way to go imo, such an iconic look and it suits the car perfectly. I've seen a couple in a few different colours but none have looked as good to me and it's been the colour Shelby is most known for even to this day.
DEFINITELY blue with the white racing stripes, and that last short wire was to send the spark from the coil to the distributor. Love your work, Tom!! : )
As I learned from my father, “if all else fails, then read the instructions!”
I am building this at the moment. The instructions actually say you shouldn't need glue, they should be tight enough. I found that to be a bit 50-50. Some fit in fine no glue. But some didn't, so I eventually glued them all down.
Can definitely share those frustrations😂😂😂Can't blame you for keeping it stock, a Cobra in blue and white just seems right!
A suggestion; the engine block might look a bit more authentic with some colour wash.
my opinion is keep it blue man. classic look. I have a fujimi cobra that I may paint grabber orange tho to be different so whatever choice you make will be the right one, haha.
these kits are awesome, can't wait to see the rest of the build. thanx
Just finished one of these a few months ago. You’ll have fun building it, but watch out for the step where you have to connect the two steering shafts.
That’s way down the road, but you’ll want the pin inserted into the collar beforehand. Otherwise, once the engine is in place with the headers, it can be very tricky to put in.
Blue and White is classic and beautiful.....as the saying goes, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. ;)
@SirDevious - That is very well put and really says it all!
Would love to see a classic '60s Batmobile build.
Build it as is, it already looks great.
Nice and great work
It's cool to see building another 1/8 scale car I like the bigger builds really well and yeah I kind of like them blue and white myself I wouldn't change it I just bill it as it is
Keep it as is.
For my personal taste, blue with white stripes is the best choice. However i'm not completely sure about the interior: black seems a bit boring to me especially for this car. Have you considered leather interior or maybe white? Great job, can't wait to see the final result
@DePanny - That would depend on whether you wanted it to look like the actual Cobra or just wanted to stylize it yourself. The only interior color available was black.
Beautiful
Could always nickel plate the body. That would solve trying to polish the zinc or whatever the body is made out of.
DEFINITELY not criticizing your handiwork, but the discussion on the color what the cobra should be, I personally thing a British racing green might've looked pretty neat. kinda calls back to the European roots of the original AC Cobra
will it be weekly step by step or the same as the GT500? that took too long???
Like i said in the video. i do not plan on making it take as long as the GT500, that was a lot more work and took to long. This will be faster as i will nog modify it.
I didn't mean to sound rude, I like your channel and very nice guy of you for the montage of this car icon, and man, you contributed a lot to my knowledge of thumbnails, and let me know I'm a big fan of your channel
Very cool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the body parts should be zamac ( zinc-alluminium alloy) like die-cast metal models are made....you can not polish zamac to mirror finish like alluminium, regardless of polishing method or clear coat at the end
Keep it blue IMO.
P.S. Very nice kits, but $1100 is a bit too steep for me. However, I will absolutely enjoy watching you put it together!
@Enigma Sapiens - I just bought one in February and it was $1,500.
@@Loulovesspeed, WOW! I couldn't even imagine paying that much for a model when I have real cars (two old Mustangs) in my garage that could benefit much from that kind of cash input. To each his own, enjoy your model, and thanks for updating me on the price.
@@Enigma-Sapiens - I have loved building and detailing model cars since around 1955, when they were priced around $1.50 each! I got bored building them though as they were not much of a challenge to build. When I first heard of the little family owned Italian company called Pocher and read that they were primarily built with metal screws and very little glue and had over 1,000 parts, I had to look further into them. When I saw the price of $150 I though wow, this must be one hell of a cool model for that huge sum, which it was around 1967. I saved for a good deal of time and finally bought one during my lunch hour at my Summer job. I brought it into the shop for the guys to see and when I opened the large box and they saw the many, many hundreds of machine screws in little clear bags stapled to the inside flaps of the box, they all laughed and said good luck trying to build that. Just about a year later I brought the finished model to work to show them that I indeed finished it and they were simply blown away! This was a Royal Typewriter service shop and all the guys were trained technicians, while I was just a high school kid with no training. I will say that I was respected a lot more after showing them what I had built.
Keep,it stock
Now that you’ve said it, it would be a shame if you didn’t go with the full brushed metal finish. That’s the only thing that would top the classic blue with white stripes. Would admittedly take a lot of effort and time, but that’s the fun part of building and pushing yourself.
I'm sure you've gone online and looked at many pictures. Cobra's look by FAR the BEST with no hoops, side-pipes and stripes, the way most of 'em came from the factory. (edit - after all these models how do you 1, not read the instructions first and 2, not know what a coil wire is??)
2 i’m not american or english. So don’t always know the correct translation. Plus i’m not a mechanic. Not even close. So some of those terms i simply don’t know..
@@TheScalemodelingChannel this is gonna sound ignorant but your voice and how fluent you are with english if you're not american or english what are you then?
Dutch
@@TheScalemodelingChannel that's wild I honestly would have never guessed
@BubbaSmurft - I assume by "loops" you mean the roll bar. The handful of 427 Cobra S/Cs made all had the roll bar, side pipes and stripes. They were built as race cars first, but also potentially for the street. S/C = semi competition.
Coil wire from coil to distributer
I say don't repaint it. Keep the classic colors, I think they look great!
Brushed or polished silver!!!!
The only color that looks better than a blue and white cobra is a dark r d metallic with black stripes
Please, leave it blue.
Keep the paint the model came with. Changing the Mustang paint elevated the model but changing a paint scheme that you like is not good use of your time.
Paint it please x
I don't see the point in a model company drip-feeding kit parts over a period of time. Who wants to wait? I don't get it? 🤔
These kits are not cheap. and making it a smaller monthly payment is more obtainable for a lot of people then it is to splurge out the big lump of cash to buy it all at once.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Sort of makes sense. Or just save up and then buy the complete kit.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel
Yes…..many cannot afford the $1400 to buy one kit. One could save, but by then the kit might not be available.
I'm thinkin' most folks don't do the math. You can buy a far nicer Exoto, AutoArt etc. car at the same or lower prices and actually have a collectible that will grow over time. I have several that have appreciated rather substantially over the last few years. (based on current sales prices vs. what I paid, not asking prices)
@@BubbaSmurft those are 1/8 and not 1/18, people who buy 1/8 models usualy dont have many of them + these DeAgostini, Altaya Agora 1/8 100-1500 bucks models are much cheaper as HQ 1/8 modelcars....a good 1/8 Amalgam cost 10 times this price, the 1/8 market is not so crowded like smaller scales