Absolutely mind blowing that someone would knowingly ram down those bolts with a different thread pitch. "Hack" isn't even the word for that kind belligerence. This is great content man, love the machine work, thank you.
Thanks Daniel for the timesert information. I.think its a quality repair thats very strong for this high torque / load application. Youre a smart dude with lots of experience, that I trust!
I hope all turns out well. But to be honest, I've done several cadillac northstar blocks (similar to the ls). I've seen gm certs fail, on just a 4.6, 310hp engine. IMO, the only fix for the thread problem here is to install studs. Installed on a northstar block, they never fail. Seeing ALL the work put into this block so far, it's kinda of a no brainer. BUT, I do enjoy this video, and hope ALL turns out as well as your process. VERY nice shop!
I had to do this on a 347. The "machine shop" didnt use torque plates like I asked, or they would have caught it. When I was torquing the heads, all the bottom studs on one side pulled the threads. I used the head as a guide and put in helicoils with red loctite. Hoping it works and dont leak water around the threads. Keep doing vids like this, great content.
Thank you for your knowledge sharing! That said, when building a performance motor, don't go to the lowest bidder. This motor is a very interesting from the choke on it's history to seeing how it's done properly!
one of my lady friends has a PT cruiser where someone had glued one of the spark plugs into damaged threads with JB weld. it blew out. I successfully used Timesert to repair the problem.
Watching you fit the Time-sert's on the bench made me green with envy. I've done mamy many of these in the car with the kit. I've done so many that I actually have a guide plate that does all 10 holes on a single set-up. One thing that I see on a semi regular basis is cracked blocks on the outer head bolt holes, as a result of what I believe is hydraulicing on oil from not blowing out the holes before assembly, leaving residual oil down hole. You'd be amazed at how much oil I have found in the holes on some motors. My advice is always check the outside of the block for cracks. If you can't see it because the motor is in the vehicle, fill the holes with brake cleaner. If you have a cracked block, it runs out fairly quickly.
I live outside Charlotte and with concord and Mooresville close by sorry I can't find anyone straight forward with me so I'm gonna bring my stuff down to to. It's a 2.5 hr drive but I've watched enough videos and I've operate a cnc press brake and laser not claiming to know anything but you remind me of the guys who taught me to run the machines you will be seeing me soon. I have 2 460's 1 ford 429 a ford 302 and a for 6.0 diesel all needing various amounts from a sleeve to just cleaning a couple up there not in as bad shape.
I am a DYI LS1/LS6 guy. Ive seen too many LS head bolts pull right out of the block. Even being careful, properly cleaning and drying the hole, making sure it DRY and using a properly calibrated Torque Wrench. I now only use ARP Head Studs. Its a MUCH better process and I have yet to have any bolt hole issues. What is your opinion on using the Head Studs vise the OEM TTY bolts? I love this channel. So SO much outstanding info! Than You! Bill
Thank you for youtubing. I watch lots of infotainment videos looking for tech, tools, knowledge. Your air hockey engine table is now something i couldn't use but super glad somebody has so i can say I've seen one. Lol. I enjoy the content.
Wow, they really screwed that engine up! I, enjoyed the longer video! Love watching machine work, being done! Please, show the surfacing, of the block and heads, if you will.🙂 When I take something to a machine shop, if they'll let me. I, hang around and watch, for a little while.😄
HOW IN THE HELL could ANYONE try to FORCE head bolts into threads that don't match?!? Ya couldn't even get a torque reading at all that was anywhere near "acceptable", let alone an accurate according to spec. reading!! I wonder if they just drove them in with an impact driver. Absolutely mind-boggling!
Idk if anyone said this. But them bolts are more than likely for a big truck heads or something like that but a a diesel engine is the only thing I've ever seen them in.
I remember having to use key locking inserts for parts we were making for nasa. They would not accept anything less for the job. It was a pain in the ass. Ended up doing thousands of them. They were aluminum parts but they didn't want aluminum threads.
I didn’t read all of the comments but the ls9 had different head boot size compared to all the other ls blocks. They came with 12x1.75 from GM but obviously even being correct boots someone played team ram rod when installing them
@@powellmachineinc3179 Not trying to cause a problem, but ARP p/n 230-3701 Head Bolt Kit for the LS9 shows to be a 12pt bolt, with a 12 x 1.75 pitch given in their instructions. Also, further research on the LS9 from other sources state the larger bolts are 12 x 1.75. Is there a different version LS9?
Wow someone really butchered that engine. How could you not know something was wrong when installing those wrong bolts. Already afraid to see what else was butchered. Definitely think there's going to be a lot. Hopefully it can all be fixed.
Ouch. If bolts won't thread in by hand, its time to examine why. First thread [thread and 1/2 maybe] is a starter thread and doesn't count regarding full engagement. But who hasn't turned a wrench and made mistakes?
So the current owner bought this on the premise that the motor was done up right, ready to go. Is there no way he can get restitution from the seller? Who obviously knew what he was doing to this man. Or do you think it's possible the original seller had no knowledge of the errors made. Because this is some pretty bad work done here. It's so hard for me to believe this kind of stuff happens. I fell so bad for this customer
I am the owner. The car was in an accident and I bought it for a substantial discount. The owner showed me videos of the car running and street racing and named all the aftermarket additions to the car. A lot of money was spent on the car in general and it was in no condition to crank or drive at the time of purchase so I assumed it was legit. After I got it home, I got it running and it sounded fine but shortly after a few heat cycles it developed a knock that we never found the cause of once Daniel tore the motor down. But he said it was a good thing I brought it when I did or it would have just come apart in a bad way. The car is going back together now and there will be a follow up video. Daniel and his team treated me very well and I can’t say enough about his workmanship and customer service. This will be my third engine from him and I can’t recommend him enough.
Man I’d love to send you my engine, I bought a built ls3 from strictly performance (who is now out of business) it’s a new block and built internals , it ate my first 2 crank bearings and all my rod bearings with less then 600 miles on it. Sent it to a local machine shop and they couldn’t find any answers, so they put it back together after making my tolerances looser , now my oil pressure is 12psi less and I’m still finding metal in my oil after 3 filters and 250 miles, I will say the metal looks less then the first filter I changed. But I just don’t think I should be seeing any at all if everything is done correctly or am I wrong about this?
What are the eight aluminum chunks in the block for @10:00 that would sit under the intake? Sorry, I have never worked on any of these engines before, are they for something like the DOD and this engine just never had it so it wasn't machined fully? I honestly have no clue, just shooting int he dark here.
M12 2.0 is a thread chevy made? Because i cant find a nut for those threads. I dont reuse any bolts from motor but i fabricated some things around the shop where i needed nuts i cant find them. France, I welded the real long journal bolts on the side of a trailer to hold our spare tire then realized I can’t find it not to fit them. Anybody have any idea
Those bolts are why I bottom all of my bolts by hand, no power tools ever on Assembly work,Ever. I cringe when I see people using electric impact tools to assemble engines then back off and torque the bolts.
As far as that tap goes you might want to measure the threads you may find that it's a standard thread metric or American but with a modified minor diameter that's typical with solid thread inserts like keenserts with drive in stakes on the sides it allows for quick and easy removal of the insert. Regardless it's probably a standard thread with modified minor.
As the owner of this engine, I’m looking forward to watching you fix the mess I bought. I’m glad we tore it down before a catastrophic failure
You and me both!
@@powellmachineinc3179I think going to a 1/2 stud, would be the best option.
We going for big power so if Daniel thinks it’s the best option then that’s what will happen
@funfun8095 1/2 is a good option, but cost is always a factor, it costs alot more to go 1/2'
That block looks like it came from a machine shop near me. No names
Absolutely mind blowing that someone would knowingly ram down those bolts with a different thread pitch. "Hack" isn't even the word for that kind belligerence. This is great content man, love the machine work, thank you.
Daniel, I’m thoroughly addicted to your work, knowledge and ability to teach without condescension. Great job, sir!
You'd think after one or two head bolts, Caleb would say to Cody, "Gee Cody, something's wrong." Instead Cody says, "Send 'er."
Sloppy mechanics made doing trash work a good thing.....
Thanks Daniel for the timesert information. I.think its a quality repair thats very strong for this high torque / load application. Youre a smart dude with lots of experience, that I trust!
Thank you sir!!, I really appreciate that
Love your work sir and the way you explain in Layman's terms.
It's my pleasure
Excellent work! Please keep the machine shop videos coming, i love em !
More to come!
I hope all turns out well. But to be honest, I've done several cadillac northstar blocks (similar to the ls). I've seen gm certs fail, on just a 4.6, 310hp engine. IMO, the only fix for the thread problem here is to install studs. Installed on a northstar block, they never fail. Seeing ALL the work put into this block so far, it's kinda of a no brainer. BUT, I do enjoy this video, and hope ALL turns out as well as your process. VERY nice shop!
I've never had a time-seet fail, we have installed hundreds
I had to do this on a 347. The "machine shop" didnt use torque plates like I asked, or they would have caught it. When I was torquing the heads, all the bottom studs on one side pulled the threads. I used the head as a guide and put in helicoils with red loctite. Hoping it works and dont leak water around the threads. Keep doing vids like this, great content.
Yeah, that's 1 more reason I don't like a coil, thread insert is a much more robust fix
Thank you for your knowledge sharing! That said, when building a performance motor, don't go to the lowest bidder. This motor is a very interesting from the choke on it's history to seeing how it's done properly!
one of my lady friends has a PT cruiser where someone had glued one of the spark plugs into damaged threads with JB weld. it blew out. I successfully used Timesert to repair the problem.
What were they thinking?
Watching you fit the Time-sert's on the bench made me green with envy. I've done mamy many of these in the car with the kit. I've done so many that I actually have a guide plate that does all 10 holes on a single set-up. One thing that I see on a semi regular basis is cracked blocks on the outer head bolt holes, as a result of what I believe is hydraulicing on oil from not blowing out the holes before assembly, leaving residual oil down hole. You'd be amazed at how much oil I have found in the holes on some motors. My advice is always check the outside of the block for cracks. If you can't see it because the motor is in the vehicle, fill the holes with brake cleaner. If you have a cracked block, it runs out fairly quickly.
Yep, we just had a corvette lt1 withe the bottom of the bolt hole blown out from hydraulicing with coolant left in the hole.
@powellmachineinc3179 please don't think that I'm trying to tell how to cook eggs. Often I make comments just so others can share from my experience
excellent host and shop
I live outside Charlotte and with concord and Mooresville close by sorry I can't find anyone straight forward with me so I'm gonna bring my stuff down to to. It's a 2.5 hr drive but I've watched enough videos and I've operate a cnc press brake and laser not claiming to know anything but you remind me of the guys who taught me to run the machines you will be seeing me soon. I have 2 460's 1 ford 429 a ford 302 and a for 6.0 diesel all needing various amounts from a sleeve to just cleaning a couple up there not in as bad shape.
Definitely, let us know
I am a DYI LS1/LS6 guy. Ive seen too many LS head bolts pull right out of the block. Even being careful, properly cleaning and drying the hole, making sure it DRY and using a properly calibrated Torque Wrench. I now only use ARP Head Studs. Its a MUCH better process and I have yet to have any bolt hole issues. What is your opinion on using the Head Studs vise the OEM TTY bolts? I love this channel. So SO much outstanding info! Than You! Bill
Thanks for doing this series!!
More to come!
Thank you for youtubing. I watch lots of infotainment videos looking for tech, tools, knowledge. Your air hockey engine table is now something i couldn't use but super glad somebody has so i can say I've seen one. Lol. I enjoy the content.
Great walk through and explanation of how to do this correction repair.
Thank you for watching!
Wow, they really screwed that engine up! I, enjoyed the longer video! Love watching machine work, being done! Please, show the surfacing, of the block and heads, if you will.🙂 When I take something to a machine shop, if they'll let me. I, hang around and watch, for a little while.😄
Absolutely 💯
This is the 3rd video iv'e seen from you..
Your a wealth of knowledge!!
HOW IN THE HELL could ANYONE try to FORCE head bolts into threads that don't match?!? Ya couldn't even get a torque reading at all that was anywhere near "acceptable", let alone an accurate according to spec. reading!! I wonder if they just drove them in with an impact driver. Absolutely mind-boggling!
Great video, was the original builder called FUBAR motors . :)
I believe so
Thank you for your knowledge and video's USA 🇺🇸
Thanks for watching!
Nicely done. Excellent explanation of the procedure.
Wow, great information. Thanks for sharing.
It costs a lot of money and time to do it wrong the first time. Most "Cheap jobs" end costing twice as much to do right the second time.
Idk if anyone said this. But them bolts are more than likely for a big truck heads or something like that but a a diesel engine is the only thing I've ever seen them in.
I remember having to use key locking inserts for parts we were making for nasa. They would not accept anything less for the job. It was a pain in the ass. Ended up doing thousands of them. They were aluminum parts but they didn't want aluminum threads.
Nice shop ya got
Nice work!
Ty!!
Just when you think you have seen everything,
I didn’t read all of the comments but the ls9 had different head boot size compared to all the other ls blocks. They came with 12x1.75 from GM but obviously even being correct boots someone played team ram rod when installing them
You are incorrect , they are same thread pitch.
@@powellmachineinc3179 Not trying to cause a problem, but ARP p/n 230-3701 Head Bolt Kit for the LS9 shows to be a 12pt bolt, with a 12 x 1.75 pitch given in their instructions. Also, further research on the LS9 from other sources state the larger bolts are 12 x 1.75. Is there a different version LS9?
Damn... "Built" LS9
Very interesting 🧐🤔
Thanks for watching
Very convenient that the LS9 block comes with a chuck key holder. A real time saver, no?
Wow someone really butchered that engine. How could you not know something was wrong when installing those wrong bolts. Already afraid to see what else was butchered. Definitely think there's going to be a lot. Hopefully it can all be fixed.
Man I'm about to do something close to this crazy to see this
Lmk if you need anything
I got a new block the holes are not finished can put around a 1/2 inch more treads in them around 5/8 taped
Ouch. If bolts won't thread in by hand, its time to examine why. First thread [thread and 1/2 maybe] is a starter thread and doesn't count regarding full engagement. But who hasn't turned a wrench and made mistakes?
May be an optical illusion on my end but the counterbore looks like its bent as its rotating.
Drill chuck has run-out
Name and Shame the other "workshop"...
Sydney Australia
I try not to do that, but in this case I don't actually know
So the current owner bought this on the premise that the motor was done up right, ready to go. Is there no way he can get restitution from the seller? Who obviously knew what he was doing to this man. Or do you think it's possible the original seller had no knowledge of the errors made. Because this is some pretty bad work done here. It's so hard for me to believe this kind of stuff happens. I fell so bad for this customer
The owner of that engine commented, he is the first comment, maybe you can ask him...
I am the owner. The car was in an accident and I bought it for a substantial discount. The owner showed me videos of the car running and street racing and named all the aftermarket additions to the car. A lot of money was spent on the car in general and it was in no condition to crank or drive at the time of purchase so I assumed it was legit. After I got it home, I got it running and it sounded fine but shortly after a few heat cycles it developed a knock that we never found the cause of once Daniel tore the motor down. But he said it was a good thing I brought it when I did or it would have just come apart in a bad way. The car is going back together now and there will be a follow up video. Daniel and his team treated me very well and I can’t say enough about his workmanship and customer service. This will be my third engine from him and I can’t recommend him enough.
Man I’d love to send you my engine, I bought a built ls3 from strictly performance (who is now out of business) it’s a new block and built internals , it ate my first 2 crank bearings and all my rod bearings with less then 600 miles on it. Sent it to a local machine shop and they couldn’t find any answers, so they put it back together after making my tolerances looser , now my oil pressure is 12psi less and I’m still finding metal in my oil after 3 filters and 250 miles, I will say the metal looks less then the first filter I changed. But I just don’t think I should be seeing any at all if everything is done correctly or am I wrong about this?
What are the eight aluminum chunks in the block for @10:00 that would sit under the intake? Sorry, I have never worked on any of these engines before, are they for something like the DOD and this engine just never had it so it wasn't machined fully? I honestly have no clue, just shooting int he dark here.
Those are ports for the DOD system
Thank you for answering, I absolutely appreciate you taking the time to do so. @@powellmachineinc3179
smeared some ARP lube on the bolts and drove 'em home
M12 2.0 is a thread chevy made? Because i cant find a nut for those threads. I dont reuse any bolts from motor but i fabricated some things around the shop where i needed nuts i cant find them. France, I welded the real long journal bolts on the side of a trailer to hold our spare tire then realized I can’t find it not to fit them. Anybody have any idea
There special, you probably won't find a nut, you can buy a tap and make a nut from hex stock
Some of my BEST work! 🤣🤣🤣
😆
How much can a guy bore one of those ls aluminum blocks out?
Those bolts are why I bottom all of my bolts by hand, no power tools ever on Assembly work,Ever. I cringe when I see people using electric impact tools to assemble engines then back off and torque the bolts.
As far as that tap goes you might want to measure the threads you may find that it's a standard thread metric or American but with a modified minor diameter that's typical with solid thread inserts like keenserts with drive in stakes on the sides it allows for quick and easy removal of the insert.
Regardless it's probably a standard thread with modified minor.
No, I could be a chatterbox about rods and valves, less build some motors
Im 95% sure those are honda head bolts lmao.
Another reason to buy an unmolested Corvette.