Great Job ! Can you give me an idea were the phase (hot wire) at the main connestion terminal is? Left or right side. Unfortunately both uses wires inside are blue and not black and blue. Thanks!
Hi. My trusty Pathos Logos amplifier, having served me faithfully for nearly 20 years old, bit the dust recently. I turned it off and pulled out the original still-working tubes to replace them with new ones I got off eBay. When I turned back on there was no sound whatsoever! I put back the old tubes, even tried a third pair, and even ordered a 4th pair and still no luck. No sound at all. I'm also not seeing any glow from the tubes When I turn up the volume, I can hear the left speaker tic with each volume increment, (but not the right speaker), and otherwise no sound. Any ideas what might have caused this problem and what the fix might be? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
A 5W wirewound resistor is an unusual failure indeed. And so much work just to replace that one part. People wonder why I hate working on solid state equipment.
@@yurjdioli866 maybe check your volume control ? sometime volume potentiometer will act as what you mentioned if the ground pin of potentiometer has dry joint.
@@AudiophileDIYer thank you for your availability, immensely thank you! unfortunately I have already burned a sonus faber speaker and I don't know how to intervene on the fault.
I almost forgot that the Pathos Logo using electronic volume. its not easy to repair as I have to track down the fault step by step. maybe you can try to contact your local Pathos distributor for repair.
That fancy heatsink must have cost a lot to manufacture. In my opinion, it would have been more sensible if they had used a cheaper plain-jane heatsink and put more time, effort and money into making the unit easier to take apart and service.
Since you don't own a desoldering station such as a Hakko or a modern equivalent device (a necessity in my experience, to avoid damaging the foil traces and pads from the application of excess or repeated heat, not to mention mechanical force), an easier way to remove that large resistor would be to clip the lead of the resistor right at the of the device on one end and bend it so it points straight up, then heat the solder connection from the other side of the board while holding it component-side-up (large resistor pointing down) in your hand and just shake the board so that the resistor can drop out. Clip a pair of hemostats on to the remaining bare lead to add some weight to it and do the same as you did with the resistor. Lead free solder has a high melting point and sets very quickly so it's usually easier to do this sort of thing if you add some fresh, lower-temperature, softer, lead type solder to it first . Alternately , use a high quality desoldering braid such as Chem-wick (don't use cheap no- name solderwick), perhaps with a little rosin flux added to the braid, and apply fresh lead/tin solder first (or, for multi-pin devices, use ChipQuick, a special, expensive, low-temperature solder). Adding more lead-type solder before desoldering may seem counter-intuitive, but it makes it much easier to desolder the component with minimal heating time and without damaging the board. Manual soldersuckers are terribly slow and inefficient for this type of work, especially when working on doublesided boards.
he forgot to mentioned 4 x 22.000 uf itelcond power caps, 6 transistors per one channel, pure silver signal cabling etc. this is a good amp for the price...
he forgot to mentioned 4 x 22.000 uf itelcond power caps, 6 transistors per one channel, pure silver signal cabling etc. this is a good amp for the price...
Great Job ! Can you give me an idea were the phase (hot wire) at the main connestion terminal is? Left or right side. Unfortunately both uses wires inside are blue and not black and blue. Thanks!
Hi. My trusty Pathos Logos amplifier, having served me faithfully for nearly 20 years old, bit the dust recently. I turned it off and pulled out the original still-working tubes to replace them with new ones I got off eBay. When I turned back on there was no sound whatsoever! I put back the old tubes, even tried a third pair, and even ordered a 4th pair and still no luck. No sound at all. I'm also not seeing any glow from the tubes When I turn up the volume, I can hear the left speaker tic with each volume increment, (but not the right speaker), and otherwise no sound. Any ideas what might have caused this problem and what the fix might be? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
I heard this beautiful lady singing on the internet. Her name is Saya.
Wish I can buy her CDs.
PS, good music. What was the blues tune at about 12:30 minutes in ?
Great Video!. Do you know if the power transformer can be connected for 220V operation?
Thank you
I’m 0:36 0:38 😅
Maybe I'll rethink my goal of buy a Pathos amp. They're pretty, but are they reliable?
Left channel in my Pathos Logos Mk. I went dead. I would love to send it to you for repair. Is that possible?
hi , can you please send an email to audiophilediyer at gmail dot com ?
Country or State are you located?
Hi, I'm in Asia region.
A 5W wirewound resistor is an unusual failure indeed. And so much work just to replace that one part. People wonder why I hate working on solid state equipment.
This is make doubt for buying pathos amplifier they look beautiful.
I have a strange problem, the volume of a single channel suddenly rises to the maximum.
Left channel
@@yurjdioli866 maybe check your volume control ? sometime volume potentiometer will act as what you mentioned if the ground pin of potentiometer has dry joint.
@@AudiophileDIYer thank you for your availability, immensely thank you! unfortunately I have already burned a sonus faber speaker and I don't know how to intervene on the fault.
you will excuse me for spelling mistakes, but unfortunately I don't speak your language.
I almost forgot that the Pathos Logo using electronic volume. its not easy to repair as I have to track down the fault step by step. maybe you can try to contact your local Pathos distributor for repair.
That fancy heatsink must have cost a lot to manufacture. In my opinion, it would have been more sensible if they had used a cheaper plain-jane heatsink and put more time, effort and money into making the unit easier to take apart and service.
Good!
Pathos nice and qality connnnectoooorsssssssss 1962
Since you don't own a desoldering station such as a Hakko or a modern equivalent device (a necessity in my experience, to avoid damaging the foil traces and pads from the application of excess or repeated heat, not to mention mechanical force), an easier way to remove that large resistor would be to clip the lead of the resistor right at the of the device on one end and bend it so it points straight up, then heat the solder connection from the other side of the board while holding it component-side-up (large resistor pointing down) in your hand and just shake the board so that the resistor can drop out. Clip a pair of hemostats on to the remaining bare lead to add some weight to it and do the same as you did with the resistor. Lead free solder has a high melting point and sets very quickly so it's usually easier to do this sort of thing if you add some fresh, lower-temperature, softer, lead type solder to it first . Alternately , use a high quality desoldering braid such as Chem-wick (don't use cheap no- name solderwick), perhaps with a little rosin flux added to the braid, and apply fresh lead/tin solder first (or, for multi-pin devices, use ChipQuick, a special, expensive, low-temperature solder). Adding more lead-type solder before desoldering may seem counter-intuitive, but it makes it much easier to desolder the component with minimal heating time and without damaging the board. Manual soldersuckers are terribly slow and inefficient for this type of work, especially when working on doublesided boards.
chinese caps what is this..........
Yes, Chinese Caps had been originally used in this amplifier, JH brand ( JiangHai Capacitors )
he forgot to mentioned 4 x 22.000 uf itelcond power caps, 6 transistors per one channel, pure silver signal cabling etc. this is a good amp for the price...
@@AudiophileDIYer NAD uses same brand since 2002 in all NAD...worst caps ever.
nice hybrid amplifier ?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
SAD
chinese caps,adhesive plastic pcb spacers, input wire solded on pcb etc for a 3000 dollars amplifier, seriously🤣🤣🤣🤣
he forgot to mentioned 4 x 22.000 uf itelcond power caps, 6 transistors per one channel, pure silver signal cabling etc. this is a good amp for the price...