This is the KIND of videos people need - a good explanation of why not how and what preparation needed. I wonder what codes the car had to conclude that it is the upper, not the lower guides.
Awesome video. I have a few A6 years 2005, 2007, 2007. All suffered this. I'm doing upper tensioners now. Fun fun fun. I was just barely able to remove the 'screw plug' for inserting the crank lock pin. Took 2 prolonged heatings/coolings, and finally it came loose. (im in rust belt). Your video is awesome!! Thank you! I lmost pulled the oil cooler, but at least I got it out. I got back covers off, no problem. Valve covers, I cracked a vent hose. I ended up buying 3 sets of tools, lol. I guess I'm covered now.
Hello, I must boast that I managed to replace the tensioner and put everything back together. The car started, everything is fine. I would like to thank you for your help. . Audi q5 3.2 fsi 2010 passenger side. The codes I had were P0016, P0302, P0341, P0300. All codes are gone, the check light is gone. Greetings from Poland
Nice work man, I'm impressed. And I learned a lot, thank you so much for taking the time to be so thorough in explaining the differences between models and generations with the 3.2 V6. And for proving that this job can be done without removing the entire motor and sub-frame because I knew it could be done but like you say, strip one nut, round out one bolt, and you just made a two day job into a week job or two weeks if you have a day job and you only have weekends and a few hours on week days to put some time into your project. Anyway I never take the time to subscribe and comment but you definitely deserve some respect and a 👍
Hi Thank you for your answer. I won't replace it until next week, so I don't know yet if there is a gasket. Probably, as you wrote, there is no gasket under the tensioner. As soon as I remove the old tensioner, I will let you know. For now, thank you very much for your help. Regards
Really good video that would have saved me a few hours of research had i found it earlier. : I'm about to do this on a B8 S4 2010 with the 3.0 TFSi, and also ended up having to buy two toolkits to get the right combo of tools. :) The tong/pincer type tool is for locking the exhaust cam chain gear on the 3.0 as those only have one cam adjuster on the intake and not two like on this engine. The different pins for cam adjuster tool are for different variations of the engines, some have 3 lobes and some have 4 and as such different shape grooves. Regarding access to the crank locking pin, I've seen videos of people reaching it from the top of the engine by moving the coolant reservoir out of the way, but I have not attempted this yet so can't confirm.
Can you please explain how you get the top inner most LS cat converter nut off. What tool or trick are you using to get to it? I can’t even see it to even get a tool on it. Thank you! Great video. Gave me the confidence to do this myself on mt 10’ Q5 3.2FSI
Sorry my comment was originally showing up as a reply to someone else’s comment so I’ll re post it correctly. I realize this thread is old but I’ve had all these shops tell me how impossible this repair is because they are talking about the timing chain that you have to pull the engine out to get access to, I bought my 3.2 2010 Audi a little over a year ago. The engine ran beautifully and the only things I ever experienced was the rattling noise on cold starts, and the camshaft position sensor fault code which went away when I replaced the sensor itself. Like I said ran fine no performance issues at all not even check engine light. until one day it just would not start anymore. Everyone is telling me my engine likely has to be replaced or rebuilt. Given my symptoms how likely is that true? Seemed like most people experienced loss in power etc. I didn’t. Oh and the mileage on the car is at 133,000 2010 Audi Q5 3.2 premium plus. Any input would be great since I still owe 15k on the car so I’m stuck with it. Thanks!
@shannonschroeder7526 hey sorry to hear about your issues... there's a lot to unpack here but let's try... shops will not do this service for you - it's not worth their time. They're all correct on what they're telling you from their perspective - if you want a shop to do the service the engine will have to come out. In this video I did only the upper timing chain - not the complete service. The upper tensioner is a problem on these motors and you'll likely get left, right or both fail at some time. Unfortunately again - a shop won't do this for you. This is a DIY type thing. That said - your engine doesn't start can be 1000 different things. Generally speaking these things fail somewhat gracefully - you usually start hearing noises if the guides fail etc., which usually leads to codes - most often one side will go out of time and throw a cam/crank synchronization code etc. It's important to know what happened when the engine stopped running - was it on, idle vs under power, did it shut off or did it run fine and fail to start after being shut off. Any shop worth a dime will check if your crank in spinning or seized, after that a quick scope of the cylinders will show whether you've got internal damage etc. If the engine is turning fine but doesn't start, and there is no damage or codes for cam and crank then it's likely something else. If he crank isn't turning you're unfortunately likely looking at a new motor. Worst case here is your timing for screwed and the pistons took out your valves...we need a lot more info to go forward
My apologies I should have given more info. So I have been hearing that metal “slapping” sound on cold starts for some time. The check engine light intermittently would come on and be a camshaft position sensor code. I replaced the sensor myself and it hasn’t come back on yet, never had any issues starting the car until 3 months prior to it ending up at the shop, then about every 10th time or so I went to start it, it would not start even after trying a few times. and I would wait a minute try again and it would finally start. This became more frequent until one day it just didn’t start anymore. I had it towed to someone I know that had a shop. The shop has it and said it’s the timing chain and I would likely need a new motor since it typically causes damage to the motor, plus he said you have to take out the entire motor to get to it to replace it anyway. He didn’t mention any other timing chain locations and I (at the time) did not know about the two upper chains. I’m thinking his diagnosis must have been the apparent slapping sound at cold start up plus the camshaft position sensor fault code stored in the memory bank. I don’t think I ever had any misfires, with previous cars I have owned it’s usually pretty obvious when that happens so I would have known. I was just hoping something in that story might give us an indication on whether or not it could just be one of the two on the top, since my Audi has been sitting since April becuase he hasn’t been able to locate a motor from a reputable source yet. I just bought this car a year before this problem happened and I’m locked in for another few years at least on payments (it just so happens I was overcharged for the vehicle to begin with from a used car dealer) that was my mistake for not doing my homework like I normally do. I just want to be able to drive my car that I am paying $300 a month for. To top it off, I have a warranty on it too, but the dealer quoted me like $14,000 dollars to fix it (as opposed to finding a new motor) and so far no one else wants to touch it. A lot of good the warranty did there… lol In short, is there any common differences in “symptoms” between a stretched out timing chain that’s located in the back of the motor or the two that are located on the top that you were referencing in this video? I was just hoping (with fingers crossed lol) to find something that might help determine whether we need to pull the entire motor or if it’s similar to the Q5 in your video with one of the top two (or both) being the issue. Any help is appreciated 😁
fantastic video, thankyou. I have 2011 A6 with 3.0TFSI right hand drive (Australian model) and thankfully do not have the shield over the smog valve on my car.
Thanks for the info! it definitely clears things up for me. I have an 05 A6 3.2. It's the earlier variant with the inline cam lock tool that you got first.
Thanks very good video ! I gess my 2005 vw 3..2 6 cil toureg is different . that i dont know none on maintenance that right now run great yet ! You are a real money saver ! God bless you !
Thanks for the video! I'm also based out of Ottawa, Canada and I was quoted over 5,000 - 10,000$ for this repair on my 2011 Q5 3.2FSI from multiple different garages. Was about to give up and just sell the car but I'm thinking this might be worth a shot. Is there a way without removing the engine, to visually inspect the upper tensioner to confirm that it has failed or to know if it's actually the chain that is stretched?
@@ETMotorsports Thanks for the reply! That makes a lot of sense actually. I had scanned the code with an OBD2 scanner months ago and it showed "P0019: Crank/Cam Position Correlation - Bank 2 Sensor B" so that should mean that it's most likely the upper tensioner on the same side as you showed in the video?
Very pumped to find this video and this comment in particular! I've got a 2012 Q5 here (107K miles) and have all bank 2 codes (misfires on 4/5/6, bank 2 crankshaft/camshaft correlation sensor A/B) and the car still runs(albeit poorly). It sounds like there is a very good chance it is upper only. I took it to the dealer and they quoted $2136 to confirm it is a timing issue (they said 99% chance) and an additional $11,798 to repair said timing issue. In addition, they suspected the entire intake manifold needed replacement because of knocking on bank 2, at a cost of $1893. So, if I had approved this job I would have walked out $16,000 poorer with a car I paid $17,000 for 2 years and 25,000 miles ago. It wasn't a hard decision. I talked to a few of the local shops and they are quoting engine out and in the $7000 range. I am quite looking forward to driving this car to the Audi service department after putting $300 into it. Not much to lose at this point and a whole lot of "in-your-face" to be gained, if it works out. Thanks much for the video and the hope! Hell, I am actually looking forward to the job now!
@@bobmcvay Good luck Bob!! I ended up finding a specialized European (e.g. Audi/Volkswagen) car mechanic in my city from a friend and told the mechanic that it was most likely a failed upper timing chain tensioner. Sure enough, the mechanic was able to pull the engine and found a failed piston on just 1 of the upper timing chain tensioners, and also a broken little plastic guide for the timing chain. The mechanic replaced only that one failed timing chain and the broken plastic guide at a great price (only 7 hours of total labour cost) and I have had no check-engine light or issues with the engine since!
@@aaronb7509 Hi Aaron! Thanks for the update. You mentioned he pulled the engine did the fix and replaced the engine in 7 hours (charged)? That is a really good deal! I will keep this in mind if I immediately run into trouble with doing it myself. Both of the German specialist shops that I work with seem super busy right now, as in mid-December appointments. Glad it worked out for you.
@@ETMotorsports Hi Emil! I decided to take this job on this weekend. Yesterday I got the timing chain cover off. You did a great job of preparing me for the difficulty or removing that - I don't know if I would have continued on it if I hadn't been prepared for the difficulty and knew that you had accomplished it. I will give more updates when I get done (hopefully), but I ran into an unexpected condition when I installed the locking bridges. I locked the camshafts on bank 1 (the error-free bank) and, afterwards, I looked over at the bank 2 cams, they looked aligned. Sure enough, I was able to install the bridge with fingers only. I was expecting to see a mis-alignment on bank 2. Hoping you can give me some encouraging words that it is still likely the bank 2 upper tensioner. Cheers!
Welcome back. I managed to unscrew the catalytic converter and valve cover. I have a question: is it enough to unscrew the valve itself or do I also have to disconnect all the hoses from the valve?
Hmm you mean the air valve at the back of the cover? The hoses are plastic and might break on you if you're pushing the valve around... might be easier to disconnect them and just get it out of the way
Did you replaced the passenger side as well or just the broken driver's side? I just bought a 2010 Q5 for $2,000 with the same problem....debating if it's worth the extra time to do both sides in one shot or wait until the other side throws a fault ode and do it separately at that time? At least these don't jump time like the older 3.2 engines. The driver's side had only 1 guide left....both plastic ones were gone, zero noise at start-up though, just a P0018 and P0019 and a check engine light. I think I'll only do the drivers side at this time....will be my wife's car as well. lol
If you're pulling the motor then yes both sides 100% plus the lower chain but if staying in place I'd just do the driver side... you may never have to do the other one anyways
Torque the cam bolts to how many foot pounds? Good video but, I watched your video many times to see if I missed it, and it wasn’t said. Really important to know
@victoryore4554 hmm pretty much the same from what I've seen so far...I was just looking at a 3.0T yesterday - seems like the exact same placent of the EGR valve
Reading through the comments I see you're in Ottawa, would you be willing to do this job on a 2010 A6 3.0 TFSI? I have a nasty knocking noise, and using a stethoscope I was able to pinpoint it to the driver side timing chain cover. Let me know if you're available so we can discuss costs
Hi A new timing chain tensioner has just arrived, unfortunately without a gasket. Maybe you remember whether you had a new gasket or left the old one. I will be grateful for your answer (I cannot find any information or numbers of this gasket). I'll probably mount it on the old gasket), but I'm afraid there will be leaks. Regards
hey I honestly don't remember having a gasket behind my tensioner...they don't come with a gasket for sure and I don't remember buying one...usually these things just have a metal on metal interface...did you pull a gasket from behind your old tensioner?
No, I mean the tensioner seal, metal. You need to remove the old one and install the new one. I've seen it in other movies. Please tell me whether you replaced it or it was together with the tensioner
Hmm I don't remember a separate tensioner seal... did you pull one out wth the old tensioner? Is that sitting between the tensioner and the head to seal the oil feed? They're usually just metal to metal but I might be forgetting
Where are u located? I will come to you and pay you to lead me thru this repair. I I am capable. But this is pretty intense for me. I can’t give up my 06 avant
Please describe what tools you used to unscrew the catalytic converter and front muffler (I'm stuck on one screw in the muffler and I can't deal with it). Regards
Is it a rusted nut? Stripped? For the muffler you've got more access so if you stripped one of the nuts you can probably use a socket to take it out? I'm usually using a hammer and chisel if I get stuck or cut the nut and replace the bolt in the worst case
@@ETMotorsports its impossible to gat at the last 10mm bolt on the bottom of the valve cover - between the cat and cover there is no room to get at the 10mm....how did you get your off?
Is this the supercharged version? Doesn’t look like it and you didn’t have to remove it like others have shown. I have a 2015 and mine clicks right on startup but goes away. I don’t get any codes yet and I’m not sure what Bank is the issue. Looks like you did just one bank, but would you recommend both while in there? Bank 2 doesn’t look like I will be easy given the PS has the airbox and more electrical connections. Your repair looks less intimidating than the full engine removal, but then with the cat removal just added the difficulty back up there especially given damage to the exhaust manifold. Keeping the crank in time is also intimidating due to the skipped details on this. Plus removing valve covers and having to replace gaskets,etc. I know there was a lot left out regarding the disconnect electrical connections, etc. I’m still not sure if I can handle this. I do not have access to a lift or full garage.
nope - NA 3.2 V6...it's not exactly trivial to do the service - access is hard all around and the exhaust is a pain in the butt...so if you only have issues on one side I suggest you do that...if you want to do everything you're better off removing the engine. I did not lock the crank - I explained it in the video because access to the crank lock plug is next to impossible...since I only had code on 1 bank, I assumed that the second bank was in time with the crank and by locking the second bank I just timed the other one...Ideally you want to lock the crank too but it was way too much effort so I worked around it
Ah... I just watch a full rebuild and saw the crank bolt you are referring too and didn't realize that too has to be done. Yep, not gonna happen without getting the engine removed. I don't know what to do now and not sure which side has the issue. I hear it's mainly Bank 2 driver side, but the TSB said to replace both. However, I'd have to remove two cats and emission control modules. Having two of those to deal with is a 100% chance one of them isn't going to cooperate in my experience. No code, but I do have the clicking noise on cold or long sit start from oil draining from the tensioner. TSB says it won't cause damage. I find that hard to believe. Uhhhh...this is just great! @@ETMotorsports
Hi, I'm working through this job right now. How did you pop the black cover off? I have all the bolts removed and the sealant seems so strong I can't get it to pop off. I put a breaker bar between the body and the side of the black cover, and I'm moving my whole engine and it still won't pop off! Any tips would be appreciated!
Hey yeah if all the bolts are off then the cover is just held by the gasket so pry it out...unfortunately you might ruin the cover in the process - I ordered a new one so I wasn't too careful with it
Hi. I replaced the tensioner, there was actually no additional seal. I have a question: after turning the crankshaft, the chain became loose (previously after replacement there was no looseness), is it normal, because I don't know what to do anymore. Maybe you need to reassemble everything and only the oil pressure will remove the looseness? If you can, describe what it was like for you. Do you remember if your tensioner had a lock (my INA does not have a lock). Regards
Hey the tensioner has a pin you have to pull when everything is in place... once you pull the pin, the tensioner is released and puts tension on the chain... there should be no "looseness" on the chain if everything is lined up properly... the last thing to do is just tighten the cam sprockets
The locking pin was pulled out, there was no slack in the chain, but after turning the shaft several times, there was slack in the chain@@ETMotorsports
@attex576 i think if you can rotate the crank 10 full rotations and everything is still in time (you can install the cam brackets without issues) you should be ok... you can then try to hit the starter and rotate a couple of times without starting to get oil pressure up and then see if everything is ok...I don't remember slack in the chain once everything is installed... can you put your phone and record while you're turning it crank? It might show you what's going on
Hey there's nothing software required after installing the new tensioner... if everything goes OK, the computer won't know you did anything... you may need to reset any error codes you had
Hey, how are you? How do I know which timing chain tensioner is bad? I'm getting cylinder 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 misfire and multiple cylinder misfires (P0300). I'm also having a Bank 2: CMP Sens 2 (G163) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28) P0018 00 [101]. Thank you!
hey sorry for the slow reply....Audi calls the passenger side of the motor Bank 1...if you had misfires on 1,2,3 and 4 only then that's Bank 1 upper tensioner...however you have a misfire on #5 as well and a Bank 2 sensor issue so to me this means you've got an issue with the lower chain or both upper tensioners...unfortunately in this case I think you`ll have to remove the motor or try to do it by removing the transmission
@@ETMotorsports I was able to get to the cats without removing the axles. All I removed was the bottom cross frame, the back aluminum heat shields and the shields around the inner CV flange. This was enough to get at the exhaust bolts on both sides. Of course it’s not easy to get to everything but you need to get creative with extensions and swivels. A 1/4 and 3/8 ratchet with a flexible head is very helpful. Hope this helps someone. Thanks…
I have a problem, I can't locate the third screw from the catalytic converter. Maybe someone will be able to help me (passenger side Audi Q5 2010 3.2 fsi)
I did the job on a 2006. After I installed everything I rotated the engine by hand and the timing chain jumped. Any idea what caused it? I took it apart and figure out what to do?
@@ETMotorsports thanks for the reply. Everything you said is correct. It sounds like I need to pull the engine. 🤦🏻🤦🏻. Wish they made it so I can remove the chain from the top
@@ETMotorsports what else do you recommend changing back there? This is most likely a flip for me so I’ll consider minimal items. Also, I’m looking at the timing tensioner I bought on eBay and it doesn’t seem to have a locking mechanism. I’m going to try another tensioner before pulling the engine. Cheap parts
@@ETMotorsports I’m going to try a dealer tensioner as a last resort before pulling engine. Heard of AudiUSAparts.com. They sound like a importer and not the dealer. So not sure if truely genuine.
Hi - loved the video. I did the same job - finished - started engine and it would not idle. with gas pedal down, it would run smooth at 2000+ rpm but would not idle. threw 0019 (crank shaft) codes and more. I took it apart again and the timing is all messed up again the same as before - and even one of the plastic guides is broken that was brand new. the exhaust crank seems to be off a lot of teeth. I assemble and tighten it and after cranking it by hand multiple times the exhaust crank starts to jump a tooth once every 10 or so revolutions. I don't know what it is - can you help? what else is wrong?
Hey - sorry to hear it's your having a hard time... is it always the same side that goes off time? Did you replace the tensioner? Are you torquing the cam phasers correctly? Can you describe the steps you're doing?
@@ETMotorsports thank you so much for quick reply - it is the same side, drivers side. I replaced the tensioner with a new one, torqued both cam phasers correctly (80lbs/ft plus 90deg). I had bottom timing plug in, put bridge on the right side over cams, put bridge on the left side over cams, installed new tensioner and lined up chain, put cam phasers on and torqued them. removed bridges and bottom plug and was spinning engine by hand. every roughly 10 revolutions the exhaust cam was being left one tooth behind. I undid everything, spun both cams by hand and they turn the way they are supposed to. redid everything again - torqued it right again and put it together. I started the engine and it would not idle right - rough. when I pressed the gas pedal, it would rev to 2000 - 3000 rpm and run smooth - sounded good. but letting go off gas pedal, it would not hold idle. I ran codes and 0019 and all the other ones came up again. I opened the valve covers and the same side is off a lot - the intake cam seems still good, but the exhaust cam is off by a lot. I undid everything he 3rd time now - and I don't understand what is binding up the exhaust cam. it looks like there is not enough tension and it jumps a tooth. I have 3 different cam phasers and I installed a different one and all teeth look good - but it jumps still. When I turn the exhaust cam shaft by hand, it jumps a bit - I'm assuming when springs from valves are trying to close or open - turns freely but jumpy - some resistance from spring and jumps into position after - about 1/4 revolution? i did not take the cradle out and visually all springs and rollers looks good. taking it apart 3 times I just really would appreciate advise on what is wrong. I was ready to replace the cylinder head already but I don't think it will do anything - car has only 100K miles on it.
@@ETMotorsports I have 3 cars with almost same engine - one 3.2, and two with 3.0T- and the other two cars make the rattling noise for 2 seconds on start up. I'm probably going to have to do the same job on all of them at some point, but this one is driving me insane since it seems that something else is off.
@@ETMotorsports if you are wondering if I pulled the pin on the tensioner - yes, I did. it expanded as much as it usually would. tensioner is new also. I wonder if that jumpy exhaust cam shaft has something to do with this - is one valve stuck somehow and creates so much back -pressure/ tension on the spring that the tensioner can't overcome it and makes the timing jump? is that possible at all?
@petertreb2917 the only time I've seen something similar was timing chain on a 2.0T that was stretched...I replaced everything except the chain and every time I rotated it by hand it would jump timing... took me a while to figure out the chain was detected stretched - I must have redone the timing 4 times... not sure that's a thing for the v6s though... could the phase adjuster at the back be spinning off? Maybe the bolt is coming loose?
from the looks of it,i would guess it not really possible to do this kind of thing in a3-6 cars,q5 probably has way more space under the hood compared to "A" cars
A3 no - the engine wasn't offered...A4 and A6 - yes... you should be able to... there are videos of folks doing this on an earlier A6 so it's definitely possible
Hii. Your thoughts and input would be much appreciated. I just picked up a 2012 Q5 3.2 with 158K miles for $2800. Has few random misfires on both banks and the ONLY P0019 Bank 2 no correlation code. It starts, runs and idle smoothly, oddly enough. I was thinking maybe sensors or valve solenoid but the upper timing chain tensioners seems to be an issue on these. I'd like to think its my upper timing chain tensioner on bank 2 😂😅.What do you think/suggest. Any thoughts? Thank you.
Hey I saw your email - sorry for the slow reply... hmm interesting - if your timing on either side was out you'd see consistent misfires on that bank only... the correlation code does suggest the timing is off though so that's a bit odd... it's not too expensive to get a set of timing tools, pop the valve covers and just see if both sides are still in time...if they are it could be a sensor or a valve issue...I wonder if you can use VCDS to get more info based on the adjustment angles...are you comfortable with doing the chains on this? You got it pretty cheap - you've got room for a timing job but hopefully you won't need to
@@ETMotorsports Thank you for the reply. I bought the tools you referenced and they are being delivered today. I pulled the intake manifold off and there is little to no carbon build up. I used a bore scope. Valves look good and there is no damage at all on the pistons or valves. I also already pulled the valve covers. And I spent pretty much the whole day yesterday trying to remove the cats bolt from the manifold. I finally got the two lower bolts off the manifold. Just the top one left. Before I go any further with this, are you saying that when I turn the crank to have the cams facing up and if I can easily finger tight in the cam locking tools, on both banks, both are in time? Or how do I know if engine is in time? Thank you You can use VCDS to check but it requires engine to be warmed up and I didn’t want keep it running for a long time. I can still put the valve covers back on and run car and see.
@micheldiarra2348 @micheldiarra2348 sounds like you've got fun ahead of you :) do whatever you can to not strip that cat bolt or you'll be in a world of pain... Yes - that's what I mean - technically if both sides are in time you should be able to fit the tools on top without any effort... technically speaking you need to lock the crank when you're doing that but the access is impossible to get to so I guess look for TDC on cyl1 I think... you can probably see if it's off even without the tools... once you verify the top end is in time and if the car is running OK you should be ok to run it and start looking elsewhere... maybe don't rush with the cat until you're sure it needs to come off... Have you done an oil change and engine flush? If timing checks ok, might be worth throwing in some sea foam or B12 and running the motor to operating temp and doing an oil change after... who knows what the previous owner has done for maintenance- might be dirty or clogged sensor/valve
@@ETMotorsports I’ll check timing once I get the tools and the crank rotating tool before going any further. I was wondering if the crank locking pin is really that necessary if the bank 1 cams are locked I have not done oil change yet. Lady seller said she was driving and all of sudden felt like it was going to die and Where she parked , there was a shop next by and I guess they just read the codes P0019 code and concluded timing. I’ll put things together and change oil, check VCDS and go on from there.
@@ETMotorsports So an update: First I got all the cats bolts off. That was intense. I got the tools. The Bank 1 Cams line up with the cam locking tools. I could finger tight in the bolts easily with no efforts. The Bank 2 Cams don't line up with the cam locking tools. Depending on which hole you try to line the cam locking tool with first, the other is off by a notch or 2.That is where I left it until tomorrow. So what am I looking at? tensioner? How would I set the Cams to TDC without the locking pin. I may try to get the pin for peace of mind and accuracy.
@@ETMotorsports aftermarket tuning for the 2.0- there is a lot available for forced induction. The 3.2 - you can put an intake and flowmaster mufflers and that's about it...lol. I own a 2011 3.2 Q5...not a tuner car at all..but it's reliable- 197,338 miles on mine.
@@ETMotorsports I did the passenger side like that locked driver side as that one had no correlation codes then started car and passenger side has no correlation codes but driver side does. So doing driver side now but when I lock passenger side cams in to do it that way it appears #1 cylinder isnt at tdc. Is that an issue?
@@ETMotorsports I didn't think to check tdc when I locked driver side to do passenger side I just assumed it was tdc as cam lock tool was fitting in on driver's side and passenger side the tool didn't. Originally was throwing correlation codes on passenger side so replaced tensioner on that side when I started it was throwing correlation codes on driver's side. Should I just lock passenger side in since that side now isn't throwing codes and driver is ? I'm thinking I'll lock passenger side and then do tensioner on driver side get that aligned and hope for the best
My car is a Southern car so pretty rusty so I had everything apart farely quick. Yes passenger side is all back sealed up and I have driver's side opened up just not sure if I wanna lock it in with crank appearing may not be lined up or open passenger side and redo that aswell.
That's what I'm trying to do but I can't get the locking pin cover out for the life of me took oil cooler and ac compressor off and still can't get it to budge
When I completed the job... I turned over the engine by hand...the adjuster momentarily collapses causing a clicking coming from the cam shaft adjusters...is this normal?
hmmm don't think so...you mean the tensioner? everything should be rotating smoothly and most importantly should end correctly timed after a few rotations
@@martyblack4483 hmm no not really... but a new tensioner shouldn't need the oil to have tension... you've got a spring there to help until the oil pressure is up
I managed to unscrew 2 screws from the catalytic converter. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to locate the third one yet. Of course, I do it very carefully
Hi Moving on, I unscrewed the timing cover. I have a question: was the gasket included with the tensioner or did it have to be purchased separately? Maybe you know the number of this gasket? I'm looking for information on this and can't find anything. Perhaps there is no seal at all. Help Regards
FYI - Audi has a 10 year or 160,000km warranty for the timing chain. 10 year from in-service date or 160,000km whichever comes first. They cover minimum 25% of the repair.
@@ETMotorsports what would a full timing chain replacement cost you think? They'd drop the engine for sure I'd think? Also are the replacement chain and guides upgraded to prevent stretching and wear?
@@ETMotorsports I don't even technically own the car yet, when I test drove it it seemed fine with no noise. But all of these videos and lawsuits make me think it'll happen anytime. Any tips on preventing it? Drive gently? High quality synthetic oil?
This is the KIND of videos people need - a good explanation of why not how and what preparation needed. I wonder what codes the car had to conclude that it is the upper, not the lower guides.
Awesome video. I have a few A6 years 2005, 2007, 2007. All suffered this. I'm doing upper tensioners now. Fun fun fun. I was just barely able to remove the 'screw plug' for inserting the crank lock pin. Took 2 prolonged heatings/coolings, and finally it came loose. (im in rust belt). Your video is awesome!! Thank you! I lmost pulled the oil cooler, but at least I got it out. I got back covers off, no problem. Valve covers, I cracked a vent hose. I ended up buying 3 sets of tools, lol. I guess I'm covered now.
Not giving me high hopes. Uhhhh
Hello, I must boast that I managed to replace the tensioner and put everything back together. The car started, everything is fine. I would like to thank you for your help. .
Audi q5 3.2 fsi 2010 passenger side.
The codes I had were P0016, P0302, P0341, P0300. All codes are gone, the check light is gone. Greetings from Poland
That's awesome!!! It's a bit of an annoying service to do but it does save you a ton of money! Glad it worked
Nice work man, I'm impressed. And I learned a lot, thank you so much for taking the time to be so thorough in explaining the differences between models and generations with the 3.2 V6. And for proving that this job can be done without removing the entire motor and sub-frame because I knew it could be done but like you say, strip one nut, round out one bolt, and you just made a two day job into a week job or two weeks if you have a day job and you only have weekends and a few hours on week days to put some time into your project. Anyway I never take the time to subscribe and comment but you definitely deserve some respect and a 👍
Thanks for the note!!
Hi
Thank you for your answer. I won't replace it until next week, so I don't know yet if there is a gasket. Probably, as you wrote, there is no gasket under the tensioner. As soon as I remove the old tensioner, I will let you know. For now, thank you very much for your help. Regards
Really good video that would have saved me a few hours of research had i found it earlier. : I'm about to do this on a B8 S4 2010 with the 3.0 TFSi, and also ended up having to buy two toolkits to get the right combo of tools. :)
The tong/pincer type tool is for locking the exhaust cam chain gear on the 3.0 as those only have one cam adjuster on the intake and not two like on this engine.
The different pins for cam adjuster tool are for different variations of the engines, some have 3 lobes and some have 4 and as such different shape grooves.
Regarding access to the crank locking pin, I've seen videos of people reaching it from the top of the engine by moving the coolant reservoir out of the way, but I have not attempted this yet so can't confirm.
Can you please explain how you get the top inner most LS cat converter nut off. What tool or trick are you using to get to it? I can’t even see it to even get a tool on it. Thank you! Great video. Gave me the confidence to do this myself on mt 10’ Q5 3.2FSI
Ooooh love the 190e in the garage ! Man. That’s a much better car than our audis!
My Audi Q5 3.2 now had the issue :'( no fault for now but terrible sound sometimes at cold startup... Could you fix it by any chance ?
Sorry my comment was originally showing up as a reply to someone else’s comment so I’ll re post it correctly. I realize this thread is old but I’ve had all these shops tell me how impossible this repair is because they are talking about the timing chain that you have to pull the engine out to get access to, I bought my 3.2 2010 Audi a little over a year ago. The engine ran beautifully and the only things I ever experienced was the rattling noise on cold starts, and the camshaft position sensor fault code which went away when I replaced the sensor itself. Like I said ran fine no performance issues at all not even check engine light. until one day it just would not start anymore. Everyone is telling me my engine likely has to be replaced or rebuilt. Given my symptoms how likely is that true? Seemed like most people experienced loss in power etc. I didn’t. Oh and the mileage on the car is at 133,000 2010 Audi Q5 3.2 premium plus. Any input would be great since I still owe 15k on the car so I’m stuck with it. Thanks!
@shannonschroeder7526 hey sorry to hear about your issues... there's a lot to unpack here but let's try... shops will not do this service for you - it's not worth their time. They're all correct on what they're telling you from their perspective - if you want a shop to do the service the engine will have to come out. In this video I did only the upper timing chain - not the complete service. The upper tensioner is a problem on these motors and you'll likely get left, right or both fail at some time. Unfortunately again - a shop won't do this for you. This is a DIY type thing. That said - your engine doesn't start can be 1000 different things. Generally speaking these things fail somewhat gracefully - you usually start hearing noises if the guides fail etc., which usually leads to codes - most often one side will go out of time and throw a cam/crank synchronization code etc. It's important to know what happened when the engine stopped running - was it on, idle vs under power, did it shut off or did it run fine and fail to start after being shut off. Any shop worth a dime will check if your crank in spinning or seized, after that a quick scope of the cylinders will show whether you've got internal damage etc. If the engine is turning fine but doesn't start, and there is no damage or codes for cam and crank then it's likely something else. If he crank isn't turning you're unfortunately likely looking at a new motor. Worst case here is your timing for screwed and the pistons took out your valves...we need a lot more info to go forward
My apologies I should have given more info. So I have been hearing that metal “slapping” sound on cold starts for some time. The check engine light intermittently would come on and be a camshaft position sensor code. I replaced the sensor myself and it hasn’t come back on yet, never had any issues starting the car until 3 months prior to it ending up at the shop, then about every 10th time or so I went to start it, it would not start even after trying a few times. and I would wait a minute try again and it would finally start. This became more frequent until one day it just didn’t start anymore. I had it towed to someone I know that had a shop. The shop has it and said it’s the timing chain and I would likely need a new motor since it typically causes damage to the motor, plus he said you have to take out the entire motor to get to it to replace it anyway. He didn’t mention any other timing chain locations and I (at the time) did not know about the two upper chains. I’m thinking his diagnosis must have been the apparent slapping sound at cold start up plus the camshaft position sensor fault code stored in the memory bank. I don’t think I ever had any misfires, with previous cars I have owned it’s usually pretty obvious when that happens so I would have known. I was just hoping something in that story might give us an indication on whether or not it could just be one of the two on the top, since my Audi has been sitting since April becuase he hasn’t been able to locate a motor from a reputable source yet. I just bought this car a year before this problem happened and I’m locked in for another few years at least on payments (it just so happens I was overcharged for the vehicle to begin with from a used car dealer) that was my mistake for not doing my homework like I normally do. I just want to be able to drive my car that I am paying $300 a month for. To top it off, I have a warranty on it too, but the dealer quoted me like $14,000 dollars to fix it (as opposed to finding a new motor) and so far no one else wants to touch it. A lot of good the warranty did there… lol
In short, is there any common differences in “symptoms” between a stretched out timing chain that’s located in the back of the motor or the two that are located on the top that you were referencing in this video? I was just hoping (with fingers crossed lol) to find something that might help determine whether we need to pull the entire motor or if it’s similar to the Q5 in your video with one of the top two (or both) being the issue. Any help is appreciated 😁
fantastic video, thankyou. I have 2011 A6 with 3.0TFSI right hand drive (Australian model) and thankfully do not have the shield over the smog valve on my car.
Thanks for the info! it definitely clears things up for me. I have an 05 A6 3.2. It's the earlier variant with the inline cam lock tool that you got first.
@@ETMotorsports hi could you do my 3.2 Q5 for a good price ?
Thanks very good video ! I gess my 2005 vw 3..2 6 cil toureg is different . that i dont know none on maintenance that right now run great yet ! You are a real money saver ! God bless you !
Thanks for the video! I'm also based out of Ottawa, Canada and I was quoted over 5,000 - 10,000$ for this repair on my 2011 Q5 3.2FSI from multiple different garages. Was about to give up and just sell the car but I'm thinking this might be worth a shot. Is there a way without removing the engine, to visually inspect the upper tensioner to confirm that it has failed or to know if it's actually the chain that is stretched?
@@ETMotorsports Thanks for the reply! That makes a lot of sense actually. I had scanned the code with an OBD2 scanner months ago and it showed "P0019: Crank/Cam Position Correlation - Bank 2 Sensor B" so that should mean that it's most likely the upper tensioner on the same side as you showed in the video?
Very pumped to find this video and this comment in particular! I've got a 2012 Q5 here (107K miles) and have all bank 2 codes (misfires on 4/5/6, bank 2 crankshaft/camshaft correlation sensor A/B) and the car still runs(albeit poorly). It sounds like there is a very good chance it is upper only. I took it to the dealer and they quoted $2136 to confirm it is a timing issue (they said 99% chance) and an additional $11,798 to repair said timing issue. In addition, they suspected the entire intake manifold needed replacement because of knocking on bank 2, at a cost of $1893. So, if I had approved this job I would have walked out $16,000 poorer with a car I paid $17,000 for 2 years and 25,000 miles ago. It wasn't a hard decision. I talked to a few of the local shops and they are quoting engine out and in the $7000 range. I am quite looking forward to driving this car to the Audi service department after putting $300 into it. Not much to lose at this point and a whole lot of "in-your-face" to be gained, if it works out. Thanks much for the video and the hope! Hell, I am actually looking forward to the job now!
@@bobmcvay Good luck Bob!! I ended up finding a specialized European (e.g. Audi/Volkswagen) car mechanic in my city from a friend and told the mechanic that it was most likely a failed upper timing chain tensioner. Sure enough, the mechanic was able to pull the engine and found a failed piston on just 1 of the upper timing chain tensioners, and also a broken little plastic guide for the timing chain. The mechanic replaced only that one failed timing chain and the broken plastic guide at a great price (only 7 hours of total labour cost) and I have had no check-engine light or issues with the engine since!
@@aaronb7509 Hi Aaron! Thanks for the update. You mentioned he pulled the engine did the fix and replaced the engine in 7 hours (charged)? That is a really good deal! I will keep this in mind if I immediately run into trouble with doing it myself. Both of the German specialist shops that I work with seem super busy right now, as in mid-December appointments. Glad it worked out for you.
@@ETMotorsports Hi Emil! I decided to take this job on this weekend. Yesterday I got the timing chain cover off. You did a great job of preparing me for the difficulty or removing that - I don't know if I would have continued on it if I hadn't been prepared for the difficulty and knew that you had accomplished it. I will give more updates when I get done (hopefully), but I ran into an unexpected condition when I installed the locking bridges. I locked the camshafts on bank 1 (the error-free bank) and, afterwards, I looked over at the bank 2 cams, they looked aligned. Sure enough, I was able to install the bridge with fingers only. I was expecting to see a mis-alignment on bank 2. Hoping you can give me some encouraging words that it is still likely the bank 2 upper tensioner. Cheers!
Welcome back. I managed to unscrew the catalytic converter and valve cover. I have a question: is it enough to unscrew the valve itself or do I also have to disconnect all the hoses from the valve?
Hmm you mean the air valve at the back of the cover? The hoses are plastic and might break on you if you're pushing the valve around... might be easier to disconnect them and just get it out of the way
@@ETMotorsports
Did you replaced the passenger side as well or just the broken driver's side? I just bought a 2010 Q5 for $2,000 with the same problem....debating if it's worth the extra time to do both sides in one shot or wait until the other side throws a fault ode and do it separately at that time? At least these don't jump time like the older 3.2 engines. The driver's side had only 1 guide left....both plastic ones were gone, zero noise at start-up though, just a P0018 and P0019 and a check engine light. I think I'll only do the drivers side at this time....will be my wife's car as well. lol
Nice deal! I only did the side that was causing issues... it's a big enough job that I'd rather not do it unless 100% necessary
If you're pulling the motor then yes both sides 100% plus the lower chain but if staying in place I'd just do the driver side... you may never have to do the other one anyways
@@ETMotorsports oh the motor stays in 😄👍
P.s. are you Romanian by any chance?
@@kinderutz close enough - Bulgarian :)
Hi, wich one would you recommend if you had to buy it used between this 3.2 and the q5 tdi 2012-2013. ?
thanks. great video. can you please get a part number for the correct bracket?
Torque the cam bolts to how many foot pounds? Good video but, I watched your video many times to see if I missed it, and it wasn’t said. Really important to know
Can you speak on the 3.0T vs the 3.2? How comparable they are for the chain tensioner replacement?
@victoryore4554 hmm pretty much the same from what I've seen so far...I was just looking at a 3.0T yesterday - seems like the exact same placent of the EGR valve
Thanks for the info man.
Does this issue come up at random? Or at a specific mileage (my 08’ A5 is currently at 62,000 miles) - should I be worried??
Be afraid, be very afraid!
Reading through the comments I see you're in Ottawa, would you be willing to do this job on a 2010 A6 3.0 TFSI? I have a nasty knocking noise, and using a stethoscope I was able to pinpoint it to the driver side timing chain cover. Let me know if you're available so we can discuss costs
Hi
A new timing chain tensioner has just arrived, unfortunately without a gasket. Maybe you remember whether you had a new gasket or left the old one. I will be grateful for your answer (I cannot find any information or numbers of this gasket). I'll probably mount it on the old gasket), but I'm afraid there will be leaks. Regards
hey I honestly don't remember having a gasket behind my tensioner...they don't come with a gasket for sure and I don't remember buying one...usually these things just have a metal on metal interface...did you pull a gasket from behind your old tensioner?
No, I mean the tensioner seal, metal. You need to remove the old one and install the new one. I've seen it in other movies. Please tell me whether you replaced it or it was together with the tensioner
Hmm I don't remember a separate tensioner seal... did you pull one out wth the old tensioner? Is that sitting between the tensioner and the head to seal the oil feed? They're usually just metal to metal but I might be forgetting
@@ETMotorsports This is what I care about th-cam.com/video/eW-zoSizWgE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=YzUOdlPUdkT7-KYK from minute 19
Where are u located? I will come to you and pay you to lead me thru this repair. I I am capable. But this is pretty intense for me. I can’t give up my 06 avant
Please describe what tools you used to unscrew the catalytic converter and front muffler (I'm stuck on one screw in the muffler and I can't deal with it). Regards
Is it a rusted nut? Stripped? For the muffler you've got more access so if you stripped one of the nuts you can probably use a socket to take it out? I'm usually using a hammer and chisel if I get stuck or cut the nut and replace the bolt in the worst case
The tensioner is only on one bank of engine or you had only one side bad ?
I have the same car 2010 Q5 3.2 FSI timing is out and cant get the last bolt off timing cover off.....thanks for the video
@@ETMotorsports its impossible to gat at the last 10mm bolt on the bottom of the valve cover - between the cat and cover there is no room to get at the 10mm....how did you get your off?
What about passenger side? I’m trying to do both sides but can’t get the cat off the passenger side
@@ETMotorsports my correlation code is for bank 2 isn’t that the passenger side?
@@ETMotorsports okay thanks I have the timing chain cover off the drivers side and the chain is super loose
Oh and the car only has 106000miles
Do you have the part number for the guide you got at Audi?
Is this the supercharged version? Doesn’t look like it and you didn’t have to remove it like others have shown. I have a 2015 and mine clicks right on startup but goes away. I don’t get any codes yet and I’m not sure what Bank is the issue. Looks like you did just one bank, but would you recommend both while in there? Bank 2 doesn’t look like I will be easy given the PS has the airbox and more electrical connections. Your repair looks less intimidating than the full engine removal, but then with the cat removal just added the difficulty back up there especially given damage to the exhaust manifold. Keeping the crank in time is also intimidating due to the skipped details on this. Plus removing valve covers and having to replace gaskets,etc. I know there was a lot left out regarding the disconnect electrical connections, etc. I’m still not sure if I can handle this. I do not have access to a lift or full garage.
nope - NA 3.2 V6...it's not exactly trivial to do the service - access is hard all around and the exhaust is a pain in the butt...so if you only have issues on one side I suggest you do that...if you want to do everything you're better off removing the engine. I did not lock the crank - I explained it in the video because access to the crank lock plug is next to impossible...since I only had code on 1 bank, I assumed that the second bank was in time with the crank and by locking the second bank I just timed the other one...Ideally you want to lock the crank too but it was way too much effort so I worked around it
Ah... I just watch a full rebuild and saw the crank bolt you are referring too and didn't realize that too has to be done. Yep, not gonna happen without getting the engine removed. I don't know what to do now and not sure which side has the issue. I hear it's mainly Bank 2 driver side, but the TSB said to replace both. However, I'd have to remove two cats and emission control modules. Having two of those to deal with is a 100% chance one of them isn't going to cooperate in my experience. No code, but I do have the clicking noise on cold or long sit start from oil draining from the tensioner. TSB says it won't cause damage. I find that hard to believe. Uhhhh...this is just great!
@@ETMotorsports
Did you replace the valve cover gaskets and bolts if not did it leek oil
Hmm I'm pretty sure I changed the gasket yes - it's pretty cheap so no real reason to skip it
@@ETMotorsports which tool did you use for the oil cooler?
Hi, I'm working through this job right now. How did you pop the black cover off? I have all the bolts removed and the sealant seems so strong I can't get it to pop off. I put a breaker bar between the body and the side of the black cover, and I'm moving my whole engine and it still won't pop off! Any tips would be appreciated!
Hey yeah if all the bolts are off then the cover is just held by the gasket so pry it out...unfortunately you might ruin the cover in the process - I ordered a new one so I wasn't too careful with it
Thanks! Yeah I got it off with a screw driver and a hammer... not the best. Appreciate your video btw, I wouldn't have attempted this without it!
That 3.2 v6 hasn’t been used in YEARS. Not sure the last model that used it. Nice video!
Which means the 3.0 supercharged version I have is harder. Great!
Hi. I replaced the tensioner, there was actually no additional seal. I have a question: after turning the crankshaft, the chain became loose (previously after replacement there was no looseness), is it normal, because I don't know what to do anymore. Maybe you need to reassemble everything and only the oil pressure will remove the looseness? If you can, describe what it was like for you. Do you remember if your tensioner had a lock (my INA does not have a lock). Regards
Hey the tensioner has a pin you have to pull when everything is in place... once you pull the pin, the tensioner is released and puts tension on the chain... there should be no "looseness" on the chain if everything is lined up properly... the last thing to do is just tighten the cam sprockets
The locking pin was pulled out, there was no slack in the chain, but after turning the shaft several times, there was slack in the chain@@ETMotorsports
@@attex576 like how much slack?
@attex576 i think if you can rotate the crank 10 full rotations and everything is still in time (you can install the cam brackets without issues) you should be ok... you can then try to hit the starter and rotate a couple of times without starting to get oil pressure up and then see if everything is ok...I don't remember slack in the chain once everything is installed... can you put your phone and record while you're turning it crank? It might show you what's going on
@@ETMotorsports Thanks. Continued tomorrow (late today). I'll report back on how it went.
what is that small plastic piece? you say RAIL? where to i find that, i find chain tensioners only? sorry for bad english
Hi
I have a question if after replacing the tensioner you need to do a computer adaptation of the new tensioner. Regards
Hey there's nothing software required after installing the new tensioner... if everything goes OK, the computer won't know you did anything... you may need to reset any error codes you had
Hi
Thank you for the fast reponse. So you must try. Regards@@ETMotorsports
What about the right side? Left side seems a bit easier
What about if you just tear that heat shield apart, do the job, then just make another heat shield, some custom made to meet your needs?!
Impossible to tear apart .. no leverage
@@AlexTheMechanic I don't know how is the Q5, but I was able to do it on my 2007 A6 3.2 without pulling out the engine...
Write as much as possible, did you use a garage lift for this job, or is a simple lift and stands enough?
I used my lift but because of the height of my garage I really only get a few feet off the ground...you could do this on stands for sure
Thanks. I'll have to try that then
Hey, how are you? How do I know which timing chain tensioner is bad? I'm getting cylinder 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 misfire and multiple cylinder misfires (P0300). I'm also having a Bank 2: CMP Sens 2 (G163) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28) P0018 00 [101]. Thank you!
hey sorry for the slow reply....Audi calls the passenger side of the motor Bank 1...if you had misfires on 1,2,3 and 4 only then that's Bank 1 upper tensioner...however you have a misfire on #5 as well and a Bank 2 sensor issue so to me this means you've got an issue with the lower chain or both upper tensioners...unfortunately in this case I think you`ll have to remove the motor or try to do it by removing the transmission
Hi, did you removed the three catalytic converter bolts from the bottom of the car? Thanks…
@@ETMotorsports Thank you!
Just got done doing this on my wife’s Q5. It’s running great! Thanks for the help.
@@ETMotorsports I was able to get to the cats without removing the axles. All I removed was the bottom cross frame, the back aluminum heat shields and the shields around the inner CV flange. This was enough to get at the exhaust bolts on both sides. Of course it’s not easy to get to everything but you need to get creative with extensions and swivels. A 1/4 and 3/8 ratchet with a flexible head is very helpful. Hope this helps someone. Thanks…
I have a problem, I can't locate the third screw from the catalytic converter. Maybe someone will be able to help me (passenger side Audi Q5 2010 3.2 fsi)
I did the job on a 2006. After I installed everything I rotated the engine by hand and the timing chain jumped. Any idea what caused it? I took it apart and figure out what to do?
@@ETMotorsports thanks for the reply. Everything you said is correct. It sounds like I need to pull the engine. 🤦🏻🤦🏻. Wish they made it so I can remove the chain from the top
@@ETMotorsports what else do you recommend changing back there? This is most likely a flip for me so I’ll consider minimal items. Also, I’m looking at the timing tensioner I bought on eBay and it doesn’t seem to have a locking mechanism. I’m going to try another tensioner before pulling the engine. Cheap parts
@@ETMotorsports I’m going to try a dealer tensioner as a last resort before pulling engine. Heard of AudiUSAparts.com. They sound like a importer and not the dealer. So not sure if truely genuine.
Hi - loved the video. I did the same job - finished - started engine and it would not idle. with gas pedal down, it would run smooth at 2000+ rpm but would not idle. threw 0019 (crank shaft) codes and more. I took it apart again and the timing is all messed up again the same as before - and even one of the plastic guides is broken that was brand new. the exhaust crank seems to be off a lot of teeth. I assemble and tighten it and after cranking it by hand multiple times the exhaust crank starts to jump a tooth once every 10 or so revolutions. I don't know what it is - can you help? what else is wrong?
Hey - sorry to hear it's your having a hard time... is it always the same side that goes off time? Did you replace the tensioner? Are you torquing the cam phasers correctly? Can you describe the steps you're doing?
@@ETMotorsports thank you so much for quick reply - it is the same side, drivers side. I replaced the tensioner with a new one, torqued both cam phasers correctly (80lbs/ft plus 90deg). I had bottom timing plug in, put bridge on the right side over cams, put bridge on the left side over cams, installed new tensioner and lined up chain, put cam phasers on and torqued them. removed bridges and bottom plug and was spinning engine by hand. every roughly 10 revolutions the exhaust cam was being left one tooth behind. I undid everything, spun both cams by hand and they turn the way they are supposed to.
redid everything again - torqued it right again and put it together. I started the engine and it would not idle right - rough. when I pressed the gas pedal, it would rev to 2000 - 3000 rpm and run smooth - sounded good. but letting go off gas pedal, it would not hold idle. I ran codes and 0019 and all the other ones came up again. I opened the valve covers and the same side is off a lot - the intake cam seems still good, but the exhaust cam is off by a lot.
I undid everything he 3rd time now - and I don't understand what is binding up the exhaust cam. it looks like there is not enough tension and it jumps a tooth. I have 3 different cam phasers and I installed a different one and all teeth look good - but it jumps still. When I turn the exhaust cam shaft by hand, it jumps a bit - I'm assuming when springs from valves are trying to close or open - turns freely but jumpy - some resistance from spring and jumps into position after - about 1/4 revolution? i did not take the cradle out and visually all springs and rollers looks good.
taking it apart 3 times I just really would appreciate advise on what is wrong. I was ready to replace the cylinder head already but I don't think it will do anything - car has only 100K miles on it.
@@ETMotorsports I have 3 cars with almost same engine - one 3.2, and two with 3.0T- and the other two cars make the rattling noise for 2 seconds on start up. I'm probably going to have to do the same job on all of them at some point, but this one is driving me insane since it seems that something else is off.
@@ETMotorsports if you are wondering if I pulled the pin on the tensioner - yes, I did. it expanded as much as it usually would. tensioner is new also. I wonder if that jumpy exhaust cam shaft has something to do with this - is one valve stuck somehow and creates so much back -pressure/ tension on the spring that the tensioner can't overcome it and makes the timing jump? is that possible at all?
@petertreb2917 the only time I've seen something similar was timing chain on a 2.0T that was stretched...I replaced everything except the chain and every time I rotated it by hand it would jump timing... took me a while to figure out the chain was detected stretched - I must have redone the timing 4 times... not sure that's a thing for the v6s though... could the phase adjuster at the back be spinning off? Maybe the bolt is coming loose?
Thanks man. ! I have an 2006 A6 Avant. Almost 200k but starting to get a little rattle in the mornings
How much longer did you drive the Audi for before you had to get the tensioners replaced? I have a rattle on morning starts also and getting worried..
Can you fix mine
from the looks of it,i would guess it not really possible to do this kind of thing in a3-6 cars,q5 probably has way more space under the hood compared to "A" cars
A3 no - the engine wasn't offered...A4 and A6 - yes... you should be able to... there are videos of folks doing this on an earlier A6 so it's definitely possible
Hii. Your thoughts and input would be much appreciated.
I just picked up a 2012 Q5 3.2 with 158K miles for $2800. Has few random misfires on both banks and the ONLY P0019 Bank 2 no correlation code. It starts, runs and idle smoothly, oddly enough. I was thinking maybe sensors or valve solenoid but the upper timing chain tensioners seems to be an issue on these. I'd like to think its my upper timing chain tensioner on bank 2 😂😅.What do you think/suggest. Any thoughts? Thank you.
Hey I saw your email - sorry for the slow reply... hmm interesting - if your timing on either side was out you'd see consistent misfires on that bank only... the correlation code does suggest the timing is off though so that's a bit odd... it's not too expensive to get a set of timing tools, pop the valve covers and just see if both sides are still in time...if they are it could be a sensor or a valve issue...I wonder if you can use VCDS to get more info based on the adjustment angles...are you comfortable with doing the chains on this? You got it pretty cheap - you've got room for a timing job but hopefully you won't need to
@@ETMotorsports Thank you for the reply.
I bought the tools you referenced and they are being delivered today. I pulled the intake manifold off and there is little to no carbon build up. I used a bore scope. Valves look good and there is no damage at all on the pistons or valves.
I also already pulled the valve covers. And I spent pretty much the whole day yesterday trying to remove the cats bolt from the manifold. I finally got the two lower bolts off the manifold. Just the top one left.
Before I go any further with this, are you saying that when I turn the crank to have the cams facing up and if I can easily finger tight in the cam locking tools,
on both banks, both are in time? Or how do I know if engine is in time? Thank you
You can use VCDS to check but it requires engine to be warmed up and I didn’t want keep it running for a long time. I can still put the valve covers back on and run car and see.
@micheldiarra2348 @micheldiarra2348 sounds like you've got fun ahead of you :) do whatever you can to not strip that cat bolt or you'll be in a world of pain...
Yes - that's what I mean - technically if both sides are in time you should be able to fit the tools on top without any effort... technically speaking you need to lock the crank when you're doing that but the access is impossible to get to so I guess look for TDC on cyl1 I think... you can probably see if it's off even without the tools... once you verify the top end is in time and if the car is running OK you should be ok to run it and start looking elsewhere... maybe don't rush with the cat until you're sure it needs to come off...
Have you done an oil change and engine flush? If timing checks ok, might be worth throwing in some sea foam or B12 and running the motor to operating temp and doing an oil change after... who knows what the previous owner has done for maintenance- might be dirty or clogged sensor/valve
@@ETMotorsports I’ll check timing once I get the tools and the crank rotating tool before going any further.
I was wondering if the crank locking pin is really that necessary if the bank 1 cams are locked
I have not done oil change yet. Lady seller said she was driving and all of sudden felt like it was going to die and Where she parked , there was a shop next by and I guess they just read the codes P0019 code and concluded timing.
I’ll put things together and change oil, check VCDS and go on from there.
@@ETMotorsports So an update: First I got all the cats bolts off. That was intense.
I got the tools. The Bank 1 Cams line up with the cam locking tools. I could finger tight in the bolts easily with no efforts.
The Bank 2 Cams don't line up with the cam locking tools. Depending on which hole you try to line the cam locking tool with first, the other is off by a notch or 2.That is where I left it until tomorrow.
So what am I looking at? tensioner?
How would I set the Cams to TDC without the locking pin. I may try to get the pin for peace of mind and accuracy.
Excellent..you are legend
Is it possible to swap 2.0TFSI engine with a 3.2FSI engine
@@ETMotorsports thanks bro, I find the 2.0 engine very problematic, the 3.2FSI is more stable
@@ETMotorsports aftermarket tuning for the 2.0- there is a lot available for forced induction. The 3.2 - you can put an intake and flowmaster mufflers and that's about it...lol. I own a 2011 3.2 Q5...not a tuner car at all..but it's reliable- 197,338 miles on mine.
@@clintdormer4512 really? so no timing chain issues or anything at all?
How did you get the crank lock cover off? I can't get it looks at all
@@ETMotorsports I did the passenger side like that locked driver side as that one had no correlation codes then started car and passenger side has no correlation codes but driver side does. So doing driver side now but when I lock passenger side cams in to do it that way it appears #1 cylinder isnt at tdc. Is that an issue?
@@ETMotorsports I didn't think to check tdc when I locked driver side to do passenger side I just assumed it was tdc as cam lock tool was fitting in on driver's side and passenger side the tool didn't. Originally was throwing correlation codes on passenger side so replaced tensioner on that side when I started it was throwing correlation codes on driver's side. Should I just lock passenger side in since that side now isn't throwing codes and driver is ? I'm thinking I'll lock passenger side and then do tensioner on driver side get that aligned and hope for the best
My car is a Southern car so pretty rusty so I had everything apart farely quick. Yes passenger side is all back sealed up and I have driver's side opened up just not sure if I wanna lock it in with crank appearing may not be lined up or open passenger side and redo that aswell.
@@ETMotorsports rust free I mean and I have a lift
That's what I'm trying to do but I can't get the locking pin cover out for the life of me took oil cooler and ac compressor off and still can't get it to budge
When I completed the job... I turned over the engine by hand...the adjuster momentarily collapses causing a clicking coming from the cam shaft adjusters...is this normal?
hmmm don't think so...you mean the tensioner? everything should be rotating smoothly and most importantly should end correctly timed after a few rotations
Thank you for your quick response...nice to have Canadian content...I've rotated it several times and it stays in time...
Can you manually inject oil into the adjuster piston to give it more resistance?
@@martyblack4483 hmm no not really... but a new tensioner shouldn't need the oil to have tension... you've got a spring there to help until the oil pressure is up
Can I send a video?
excellent video!
Thanjs for the video
The muffler is unscrewed. Now it's time for the catalyst. We keep fighting
Take your time - I can't stress that enough! If you strip the cat bolts you're in a world of pain... good luck!!
@@ETMotorsports
I managed to unscrew 2 screws from the catalytic converter. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to locate the third one yet. Of course, I do it very carefully
Gosh... I'm glad I own 2007 A6, 3.2. seems a lot easier.
Hi
Moving on, I unscrewed the timing cover.
I have a question: was the gasket included with the tensioner or did it have to be purchased separately? Maybe you know the number of this gasket? I'm looking for information on this and can't find anything. Perhaps there is no seal at all. Help
Regards
You mean for the timing cover? There's no gasket - use gasket maker
FYI - Audi has a 10 year or 160,000km warranty for the timing chain. 10 year from in-service date or 160,000km whichever comes first. They cover minimum 25% of the repair.
@@ETMotorsports what would a full timing chain replacement cost you think? They'd drop the engine for sure I'd think? Also are the replacement chain and guides upgraded to prevent stretching and wear?
@@ETMotorsports given you're in Ottawa I'd happily pay you for some help :) otherwise I may attempt this over a week next summer.
@@ETMotorsports I don't even technically own the car yet, when I test drove it it seemed fine with no noise. But all of these videos and lawsuits make me think it'll happen anytime. Any tips on preventing it? Drive gently? High quality synthetic oil?
@@ETMotorsports I will religiously keep my ears open and potentially buy a vcds scanner tool to check
so $300 in parts... how much of your time, Emil?
NiTeCProductions I think 10 hours any Mechanic Can Pull engine Out if u pull Engine Out much Easier And Cleaner 😏
@@autobodyrepairclearcoot4146 how many hours to pull out that engine not including repair time?
John Andrews If u pull Out engine That Repir You will doing by Smiling On your Face