metal expands as it gets hot. so you are expanding it into the hole.. you need to heat it up and then cool it quickly to make the stud expand and contract to free it up
Continuously torquing the stud in one direction while it is near red hot is sure to fail as heat is softening stud , heat it as near to the block as possible and allow it to soak in to the threads and rock the stud gently in both directions to try and clear some rust from the seized threads. A few hard blows to the end of the stud can help break it loose. The welder trick is the best choice if you have the tools . You could even cut the stud off about 3/8" from the surface and place a larger hex nut over it and weld it to the stud , the heat transfers very quickly right where you want it , this works great , if this does not work you are drilling and tapping anyway.
always turn a stuck bolt both ways before removing...firm taps with a hammer can also shock the corrosion bonds in the threads... heat is great but the two tips on left should always be done.
This can also be done with a tig welder if you don't care about a certain tungsten or if you dedicate one to contaminate on stuff like this. A big tap with a 2 lbs hammer on a punch held with vice grips on the siezed fastener then a quick blast with the tig torch then a penetrating oil after it cools a little. An impact driver used carefully can sometimes help as well. That said...I've really wanted one of these heaters.
@Mechanical Matt a broken bolt or siezed stud. The heat cycle alone from heating and cooling will free a frozen fastener. If it's blind or inaccessible, cut a small sleeve out of copper tubing to fit into the ID of the hole. Don't start a puddle, just get heat into the part and work it back and forth until it gets moving. Clean the area first if possible or the arc will wander like crazy. Great vid btw 🖖
Some friendly advice from the coach 🇸🇪 1. "soak" the stud bolt the day before either with W40 or similar. or a mix of gear oil and acetone. 2. heat the pin bolt until it is as red as a baboon's butt. 3. tap the pin bolt with a copper hammer "hard" 4. as you did tighten the stud bolt a bit before trying to loosen it. 5. ABSOLUTELY DO NOT DO AS WITH THE FIRST ONE❗
I remove broken bolts with mig welder, it the easier way. Drill a small pilot hole in the broken bolt, start the weld in the hole, and build it up until you can get a large (new) nut on it. Fill the nut with weld pool to the top, , usually come out easy, sometimes I have to repeat with new nuts if it keeps breaking loose. I would not drill and tap unless you make a jig or use a drill press to keep the drill centered and vertical. I've also done it with a stick arc welder using 1/8 rods. Try using a nut twice the size of the one that snapped off, it allows more weld filler and gives more leverage. This one was snapped off below the surface and took 4 tries with bigger nuts each time. th-cam.com/video/COpRIVGiTqo/w-d-xo.html
You need a really good set of vice grips joke up on that stud and honked down on it good or you twisting it then you allowed to twist Plus when you're heating a solid piece of metal it expands it's not like a bearing with a hole and a which contracts maybe heat to block around it a little better or something I'm not sure but put some dry ice on the stud I'm ready to get cold
You do not obviously know how to deal with rusty items like the gentleman said heat the area around the bolt I live in the rust belt actually on the east coast all I deal with are rusted nuts and bolts 24 and 7 while I'm fixing cars When you live in an area and rust you are not just an automotive technician who takes things apart you are a corrosion and rust expert You have to develop certain skills and techniques to work these things to avoid breaking bolts constantly otherwise you would never get a single job done Otherwise that done cool tool thank you for the demonstration
Not sure why your heating the studs. Its expanding inside the block which makes it harder to remove. Take a torch and warm the block around the studs
metal expands as it gets hot. so you are expanding it into the hole.. you need to heat it up and then cool it quickly to make the stud expand and contract to free it up
Not my project but when he snapped that bolt I had that pucker sensation
Continuously torquing the stud in one direction while it is near red hot is sure to fail as heat is softening stud , heat it as near to the block as possible and allow it to soak in to the threads and rock the stud gently in both directions to try and clear some rust from the seized threads. A few hard blows to the end of the stud can help break it loose. The welder trick is the best choice if you have the tools . You could even cut the stud off about 3/8" from the surface and place a larger hex nut over it and weld it to the stud , the heat transfers very quickly right where you want it , this works great , if this does not work you are drilling and tapping anyway.
Add a little candle wax or paraffin wax to the threads. The wax gets pulled in by capillary action to help loosen and lubricate the threads.
always turn a stuck bolt both ways before removing...firm taps with a hammer can also shock the corrosion bonds in the threads... heat is great but the two tips on left should always be done.
This can also be done with a tig welder if you don't care about a certain tungsten or if you dedicate one to contaminate on stuff like this. A big tap with a 2 lbs hammer on a punch held with vice grips on the siezed fastener then a quick blast with the tig torch then a penetrating oil after it cools a little. An impact driver used carefully can sometimes help as well. That said...I've really wanted one of these heaters.
Is this to remove the fasteners that broke off or to remove the studs in general?
@Mechanical Matt a broken bolt or siezed stud. The heat cycle alone from heating and cooling will free a frozen fastener. If it's blind or inaccessible, cut a small sleeve out of copper tubing to fit into the ID of the hole. Don't start a puddle, just get heat into the part and work it back and forth until it gets moving. Clean the area first if possible or the arc will wander like crazy. Great vid btw 🖖
I miss those induction heaters, need to get one ASAP!
I got this one for cheap on Amazon, they look to be around 180 bucks now
I'm glad that I watched your video because I see that even with the magical tool you can still break off the bolt or stud.
Especially the ones from China.
@@lapplaudme2159 It's not anything to do with China.
have you tried this on o2 sensors?
should apply a bit of oil once the stud is hot
Some friendly advice from the coach 🇸🇪
1. "soak" the stud bolt the day before either with W40 or similar. or a mix of gear oil and acetone.
2. heat the pin bolt until it is as red as a baboon's butt.
3. tap the pin bolt with a copper hammer "hard"
4. as you did tighten the stud bolt a bit before trying to loosen it.
5. ABSOLUTELY DO NOT DO AS WITH THE FIRST ONE❗
I remove broken bolts with mig welder, it the easier way.
Drill a small pilot hole in the broken bolt, start the weld in the hole, and build it up until you can get a large (new) nut on it.
Fill the nut with weld pool to the top, , usually come out easy, sometimes I have to repeat with new nuts if it keeps breaking loose. I would not drill and tap unless you make a jig or use a drill press to keep the drill centered and vertical.
I've also done it with a stick arc welder using 1/8 rods.
Try using a nut twice the size of the one that snapped off, it allows more weld filler and gives more leverage.
This one was snapped off below the surface and took 4 tries with bigger nuts each time.
th-cam.com/video/COpRIVGiTqo/w-d-xo.html
Good tool in wrong hands
You need a really good set of vice grips joke up on that stud and honked down on it good or you twisting it then you allowed to twist Plus when you're heating a solid piece of metal it expands it's not like a bearing with a hole and a which contracts maybe heat to block around it a little better or something I'm not sure but put some dry ice on the stud I'm ready to get cold
You do not obviously know how to deal with rusty items like the gentleman said heat the area around the bolt I live in the rust belt actually on the east coast all I deal with are rusted nuts and bolts 24 and 7 while I'm fixing cars When you live in an area and rust you are not just an automotive technician who takes things apart you are a corrosion and rust expert You have to develop certain skills and techniques to work these things to avoid breaking bolts constantly otherwise you would never get a single job done Otherwise that done cool tool thank you for the demonstration
Also let gravity help you push down on it at a cost of pressure