Bloody brilliant, the service centre couldn't explain why I went from 20km range indicated to 0 in a matter of minutes, just 6km short of my destination. Your video makes perfect sense and I'm now confident that I don't have an intermittent fault with the vehicle. Thankyou very much.
I use either 10 amps or 16 amps and nearly always the electricity is coming from the sun. At any rate I always charge to 100%. Every day. Best regards from Egypt. My car is the Atto 3.
This is the best and most accurate and concise explanation that I've seen. Well done. I've had LFP cells in my offgrid power system for 9 years and have had to work all this out for myself.
Thanks, good work. Mine is Atto3 LiFePO3. I generally charge weekly, slow AC charge from 30% to 100%. About twice a year I do a calibration charge from
Thanks for the great efforts on this channel. Very insightful. This will be our third ev now, had a LEAF, now have polestar so both used li-on not lfp batteries but my home battery is lfp. I know u can charge daily to 100 with lfp but how long can u leave the car at 100? This will be for the mrs and I will generally manage charging myself. I don’t want to fully charge the car if she isn’t going to use it next day and leaving at 100 is detrimental. We are in the UK, u may get a few more viewers as Atto 3 is now on UK motability scheme in top design spec, with zero deposit. Utter bargain as it gives u the car inc. insurance, tyres, maintenance, tyres, free home charger or discounted public for around £250 a month in sacrificed disability benefit. Keep up the good work.
Brilliant work. Thanks for taking the time to explain. I wish more people tried to understand the details than half informed repeating of random information.
With all-electric cars there is another consideration to charging and that's the temperature of the batteries. I have noticed a quirk of the Atto 3 is that says you come home and the battery is hot. You shut down the car but don't lock it the battery management system does not continue to cool the battery. Unless you lock the car. I have a bad habit of not locking the car and am probably doing harm to the battery. The same goes for a charging session if I unlocked the car to unplug and do not relock the car the battery cooling system remains off.
You are wrong, friend... when you lock your electric car, the battery is not being cooled. What you are hearing is the air conditioning system drying the ducts to prevent mold and bad odors.
Thanks very good information. I don't like to sitt in the car to get this information Why isn't the calebration displayed in the software...and in the app during and after charging..so we know if the cells are calebrated.. hopeing for this update soon.
Thanks for the helpful video😊👍 My rant: 80% charge still help extend life beyond car life of 20yrs also keep range as far as possible 100% charge still shorten battery life & range quicker But as you pointed out need to charge 100% from time to time for rebalancing
@@BYD_Telsa Thanks u stand corrected on your info My commemts that is not to say your video is Not helpful in fact thanks to your video add more valuable info to BEV wirh LFP. 👍 mine is from various reading on LFP & ternary Li battery 80% charges will still lengthen battery life Obviously one has different habits and chargimg to 100% on LFP will still last time life of vehicle I'm stingy and frugal thus 80% charge is for me
Thank you for your video and hard work.😊👍 I'm just here making comments of my personal charging preference By tiring making sure BEV if I have one to last the 20yrs, nonetheless it's my rant I also have preference not to. Quick/fast Charge if possible, which will also shorten battery life even if it is LFP Again this is because I'm nutty & frugal
@@BYD_Telsa Initially the LFP charge to 80% will last near 3x its life compare to 100% over time, I take from Utube videos, some online articles, there were graphs presented Some was from Electric Viking channel which he promoted LFP (years before now) However he also stated that even if LFP charged to 100% everytime LFP although loosing life quicker will still last life of vehicle And LFP life is longer then ternary type battery NMA NMC NCA those dangerous instant inferno battery when compartment compromise / short circuit Therefore LFP is a must for those with safety in mind. Sodium battery may be even better supposedly they do not combust Draw back for BEV with safe battery is they are heavy and with lesser energy to weight ratio Safety of people & property is #1 priority #2 battery life
Regularly fully charging an LFP battery will still cause increase in battery degradation over time yes considerably less than non LFP but still will cause an increase. Needs to be done every 1-2 weeks more for the BMS than anything due to the way the voltage drops and increases making SOC harder to calculate on LFP hence why Tesla recommends to fully charge their LFP batteries so not sure I would tell people to 100% charge after every trip, just my 2 cents Ps otherwise very informative 😊
The advice I have and my research suggests the battery likes to be fully charged. But I will say it prefers to be topped to 100% on the lower charge rate of the AC charges.
100% charge Once in awhile As LFP same like other li battery loose life quicker then 80% charge Although shorten LFP life will still supposedly last life time of car 15yrs Keep LFP in 80% charge unless long distance , will supposedly near have 3x life span then 100% charge each time Also 80% charge keep car max range longer
It's best for both Lithium Ion and LiFePO4 to leave at somewhere around 50% charge for long-term unused storage, preferably in a cool place. And, particularly with Lithium Ion, to keep fully charged or discharged for as little time as possible, ie fully charge just before that longer journey and recharge to half full ASAP from empty. This is completely different from the old lead-acid batteries which last much longer if kept fully charged all the time.
Better keep it in 80% for long term storage, when it drop to very low battery state can ruin Li battery - dead battery (same with Li battery ph) 80% can slowly drop to 50% Although some books say keep 50% charge for Li battery for unused Car will continue consume electricity thus drain down much faster Because car battery is attached While other Li battery like drone battery can be unattached & stored. Car battery pack are continuously drain over time
The manual says fully charging is recommended once a week, and from less than 10% every 3-6 months (p93). I have seen a recent email from BYD that says continuous AC, not DC, is required for the benefits of the 10-100% charge cycle.
Hello, thanks for the video, it's very instructive and helpful. I'm a Seres 3 owner and I sometimes have the similar issues. As far as I know, our battery is also LFP, so same instructions are valid I guess.
Thanks ,well explained . It's clear to me the bhaviour when the battery is unbalanced but can you please explain how the battery get into unbalanced state on the first place , it sound like wrong/bug in the charging managment ?
It is due to slight differences in cell performance. After several trip cycles these differences accumulate. Fully charging and equalising removes the differences. If you didn't do this the differences would continue to accumulate and ultimately seriously impede performance.
Almost all the manufacturers (NOT NISSAN) doesn't charge the cells to 100%, so you see charged 100% but it's not really at 4,30v at cell level, so is safe to charge it at full capacity. (I repeat NISSAN charges at maximun voltage at cell level, so you better not charge it al 100%)
Wow, thanks for the video. What happens if I did not unplugged the charger after reaching 100%? Because I usually charge at night and I am not able to monitor the exact time that it reach 100%.
Hello, a basic question: how is it more correct to charge the batteries in a 61KWH electric vehicle. At low current let's say about 6AH for about 15 hours or 12AH for 7 hours.
I do believe that an LFP battery is still a lithium ion battery. I think that you are referring to nickel, manganese, cobalt chemistry lithium ion batteries Vs lithium, iron, phosphate chemistry lithium ion batteries. both use the migration of lithium ions through an electrolyte from one electrode to the other. I also think that it would be more accurate to say that regularly charging an LFP battery to 100% is less damaging than doing so with a NMC battery rather than saying that regularly charging an LFP battery to 100% is perfectly fine. Some studies have shown that maintaining a low state of charge is better for longevity in LFP batteries, but occasionally charging to 100% to maintain cell balance is essential. Also, the slower a battery is charged, the cooler it stays whilst charging. Heat is the enemy of any lithium ion battery when it comes to longevity. Fast charging heats the battery more than slow charging and therefore degrades the battery faster. the worst case scenario would be to deplete the battery to a very low state of charge and then fast charge to 100%. both the low state of charge and the 100% state of charge degrade the battery and the extra heat during fast charging degrades it even more. Conversely, the best case scenario would have to be more frequent, shorter charge times at a slower, cooler rate, and from a mid range state of charge. Daily slow charging, at home, on a 10 amp outlet, from around 60% to around 80%, with a monthly charge to 100%, would give the greatest life span for an LFP battery. If this can be done overnight , using off peak rates, it is also by far the cheapest way to charge.
@@BYD_Telsa @BYD_Telsa Please, don't be sorry. You didn't disagree at all. That is exactly what I said. Please read all of my comment. Specifically the second sentence. please justify your comment and let me know what part of my comment was incorrect. Is an LFP battery not a lithium ion battery that works by utilising the flow of ions from one electrode to the other electrode via an electrolyte? In the case of an LFP battery, lithium ions? I understand that Wikipedia can be inaccurate but there are many other great references to information about the workings of lithium ion batteries including LFP batteries. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery Maybe you should Google it. If your particular skill set is limited to TH-cam, there are still some great resources that are available to you. Here, let me help you. Just follow this URL. th-cam.com/video/Eqm8OVCwMrg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LDrELRG32nuVy3eX Let this lovely lady give you some knowledge of the CONTENT OF YOUR TH-cam CHANNEL.
Hi. Great video. Does the NMC battery require top up to a certain percentage for the management system to balance the battery? Tesla Model Y setting recommends charging to maximum 80% for daily driving. I’m just wondering whether to once a week or once a month, top up to 100% for recalibration (if that’s how it works for my Model Y type of battery, NMC is it?)
thank you for explaning the cell balancing concept. i never charge my battery to 100%. I always use DC to charge my car to 70% and keep using it til ～15%. How often u recommend to full charge the battery so the atto 3 has a chance to balance its cell? to keep battery healthy and accurate mileage ? Thanks
Under 10% is needed for BYD Blade LFP batteries, to help the BMS better show correct battery percentage. Also charge uninterrupted to 100% on AC from under 10%.
LFP chemistry has its limits at 3.65V and 2.5V. Anything above and below that can degrade the cells and you won't be getting the expected life cycles which is around 10K.
LFP can cause problems with giving an accurate range. If you think you will get 480km every time you charge and drive in the city, then go on a trip on the open road that 480km will not be achievable and you could get caught out in both speed and low temperature.
@@BYD_Telsa no your actuality wrong, LFP have a different voltage that drops at a different rate, that is the main reason that the battery needs to be charged to 100% as LFP is not even at discharging. People think LFP is a perfect battery but all batteries have their pros and cons and LFP is no different
@@BYD_Telsa Also LFP are much safer for thermal runaway but they are not immune to that, even the BYD Blade batteries have had some fires in their home country of China. The good old Nissan Leaf actually has had the best record of fires with over 500,000 sold as far as far as I have seen only a single fire has been reported and that fire no information on the cause. The nail test done on the blade battery is a little misleading as that battery is very long so that single nail was just a very small part of the battery. Having said that I am still very interested in the upcoming BYD Dolphin and its on my short list with its Atto 3 drivetrain and 60kwh battery!
Thank you for the video. Quick question which battery capacity does your BYd Atto 3 has because it shows 480km range with a full charge. Mine is 420Km. Thanks
Minimal fast charging only when needed As fast charging degrade battery life even LFP as it has Li Charge LFP 80% to keepn battery life near max, ramge also Charge to 100% to rebalanced as u indicated, it dies degrade LFP battery faster 100% charge by 3x however LFP still last lifetime car bit eill loose km range. Li ion inside
Great.. now we know why... but if you charge to 110% and balance your battery then go on a long journey...how do you know if your battery is still balanced by the time you get to 20%?
Thanks for the very useful info. Out of interest, once you reach 100% on the Atto 3, should you be disconnecting the power from the vehicle, or is it ok to leave it connected until you next drive the car (even if that's days?)
The manual says fully charging is recommended once a week, and from less than 10% every 3-6 months (p93). I have seen a recent email from BYD that says continuous AC, not DC, is required for the benefits of the 10-100% charge cycle.
The AC sometimes provokes one, two or even three low banging sounds in the background when the battery is still "cold". But, as I was told, this is of little concern.
It's probably better if you can manage it, to do a single intermediate charge of 50%, eg from 30-80% as this allows the pack temperature to even out, I believe the optimal pack temp for fast charging is around 35C. What I do is one slow AC charge to 100% once per week (every Sunday). Around town, we do about 40km per day on average, sometimes a bit more. If I need additional juice during the week I wait till it reaches 30-35% and then DC fast charge to no more than 85%. This typically takes 35 minutes on the 50KW fast charger across the street. I normally do this at around 10pm when it's nice and cool and use the time to catch up on email etc. Outside of trips, I only use the fast charger about once per month. I think this routine helps keep the battery in good condition. But I am probably overdoing it. If you are doing a trip I recommend continuing the DC fast charge until you get charge rate roll back (usually between 85 and 95%). In my experience, from 95% the LR Atto easily does 300km cruising at 95-105kmh with 15% in reserve. However, energy consumption rises very quickly at speeds over 105kmh. The best range speed is about 85kmh.
I like how you tell us what you do, how, when, why and then how you utilize your time whilst ie (catching up on emails). How did you deternine 85km/hr as optimal? Ta
Some batteries shouldn’t be charged past 80% as a rule unless a travel plan necessitates it. The Atto 3 battery is of a type that is happy to be fully charged.
Non of you talk about the battery buffer so take hyundai and kia 64kW battery this is available to use butvthe battery is actually 67.8kw so you never ever get to a point where you fully discharge. The battery has a buffer. Stellantis has 50kw but most have between 43.6 and 45.5kw avisble to use. So there is a big portion of the battery not being used so you never get to full discharge. The bms should be averaging out the cells and reporting the average charge. Also bms should not be allowing huge variations between cells. The bms are not that primitive. This was an issue in the very early car pre leaf but this should not be the case with post leaf vehicles. If this is happening then your bms software is faulty. Plus you have not covered the different charging type ac v dc . I have to say the owner manual on battery management in kia and hyundai is very comprehensive and there more in the digital version compared to printed . So I am very surprised you say there not much in atto 3 . I looked atvthe owners manual today there is 14 pages of information talking about different types of charging ac abd dc the temperatures about not going below 15% and avoid going above 95% on each charge. So for you to say there not much you are wrong.
Bloody brilliant, the service centre couldn't explain why I went from 20km range indicated to 0 in a matter of minutes, just 6km short of my destination. Your video makes perfect sense and I'm now confident that I don't have an intermittent fault with the vehicle. Thankyou very much.
I use the 15% buffer principle. Always works.
Thanks for a great video, well illustrated and sound logic. Got my Atto3 3 days ago and loving it.
how do you feel like your BYD? is it good?
I use either 10 amps or 16 amps and nearly always the electricity is coming from the sun. At any rate I always charge to 100%. Every day. Best regards from Egypt. My car is the Atto 3.
Lovely. Ate there any charging stations in Egypt? Do you do intercity driving?
This is the best and most accurate and concise explanation that I've seen. Well done. I've had LFP cells in my offgrid power system for 9 years and have had to work all this out for myself.
Thanks, good work. Mine is Atto3 LiFePO3.
I generally charge weekly, slow AC charge from 30% to 100%.
About twice a year I do a calibration charge from
Many thanks for the detailed & very well explained video. Precise and to the point. Cheers. 😊😊
Thanks for the great efforts on this channel. Very insightful.
This will be our third ev now, had a LEAF, now have polestar so both used li-on not lfp batteries but my home battery is lfp. I know u can charge daily to 100 with lfp but how long can u leave the car at 100? This will be for the mrs and I will generally manage charging myself. I don’t want to fully charge the car if she isn’t going to use it next day and leaving at 100 is detrimental.
We are in the UK, u may get a few more viewers as Atto 3 is now on UK motability scheme in top design spec, with zero deposit. Utter bargain as it gives u the car inc. insurance, tyres, maintenance, tyres, free home charger or discounted public for around £250 a month in sacrificed disability benefit.
Keep up the good work.
Brilliant work. Thanks for taking the time to explain. I wish more people tried to understand the details than half informed repeating of random information.
Excellent explanation, very useful.👌👍
Great video! I get it! And now will charge to 100% each night after doing 120 kms weekdays. :)
With all-electric cars there is another consideration to charging and that's the temperature of the batteries. I have noticed a quirk of the Atto 3 is that says you come home and the battery is hot. You shut down the car but don't lock it the battery management system does not continue to cool the battery. Unless you lock the car. I have a bad habit of not locking the car and am probably doing harm to the battery. The same goes for a charging session if I unlocked the car to unplug and do not relock the car the battery cooling system remains off.
You are wrong, friend... when you lock your electric car, the battery is not being cooled. What you are hearing is the air conditioning system drying the ducts to prevent mold and bad odors.
Nice work mate well explained thanks love my Atto 3 😁👍
Thanks for this straightforward video. Exactly what I wanted to know.
Thanks very good information. I don't like to sitt in the car to get this information Why isn't the calebration displayed in the software...and in the app during and after charging..so we know if the cells are calebrated.. hopeing for this update soon.
Excellent work. Precise information provided. thank you
Thanks for Sharing and hard work to answer these question. Much appreciated ............
Impressive work and valuable information. Congratulations!
Thanks for the helpful video😊👍
My rant: 80% charge still help extend life beyond car life of 20yrs also keep range as far as possible
100% charge still shorten battery life & range quicker
But as you pointed out need to charge 100% from time to time for rebalancing
All information I have from BYD and Tesla says that you should charge to 100% at least once per week. Can you advise where you got this info. Cheers
@@BYD_Telsa Thanks u stand corrected on your info
My commemts that is not to say your video is Not helpful in fact thanks to your video add more valuable info to BEV wirh LFP. 👍
mine is from various reading on LFP & ternary Li battery
80% charges will still lengthen battery life
Obviously one has different habits and chargimg to 100% on LFP will still last time life of vehicle
I'm stingy and frugal thus 80% charge is for me
Thank you for your video and hard work.😊👍
I'm just here making comments of my personal charging preference
By tiring making sure BEV if I have one to last the 20yrs, nonetheless it's my rant
I also have preference not to. Quick/fast Charge if possible, which will also shorten battery life even if it is LFP
Again this is because I'm nutty & frugal
@@BYD_Telsa Initially the LFP charge to 80% will last near 3x its life compare to 100% over time, I take from Utube videos, some online articles, there were graphs presented
Some was from Electric Viking channel which he promoted LFP (years before now)
However he also stated that even if LFP charged to 100% everytime LFP although loosing life quicker will still last life of vehicle
And LFP life is longer then ternary type battery NMA NMC NCA those dangerous instant inferno battery when compartment compromise / short circuit
Therefore LFP is a must for those with safety in mind.
Sodium battery may be even better supposedly they do not combust
Draw back for BEV with safe battery is they are heavy and with lesser energy to weight ratio
Safety of people & property is #1 priority
#2 battery life
Regularly fully charging an LFP battery will still cause increase in battery degradation over time yes considerably less than non LFP but still will cause an increase. Needs to be done every 1-2 weeks more for the BMS than anything due to the way the voltage drops and increases making SOC harder to calculate on LFP hence why Tesla recommends to fully charge their LFP batteries so not sure I would tell people to 100% charge after every trip, just my 2 cents Ps otherwise very informative 😊
The advice I have and my research suggests the battery likes to be fully charged. But I will say it prefers to be topped to 100% on the lower charge rate of the AC charges.
100% charge Once in awhile
As LFP same like other li battery loose life quicker then 80% charge
Although shorten LFP life will still supposedly last life time of car 15yrs
Keep LFP in 80% charge unless long distance , will supposedly near have 3x life span then 100% charge each time
Also 80% charge keep car max range longer
Great video! You’re a bloody legend mate.
It's best for both Lithium Ion and LiFePO4 to leave at somewhere around 50% charge for long-term unused storage, preferably in a cool place. And, particularly with Lithium Ion, to keep fully charged or discharged for as little time as possible, ie fully charge just before that longer journey and recharge to half full ASAP from empty. This is completely different from the old lead-acid batteries which last much longer if kept fully charged all the time.
Better keep it in 80% for long term storage, when it drop to very low battery state can ruin Li battery - dead battery (same with Li battery ph)
80% can slowly drop to 50%
Although some books say keep 50% charge for Li battery for unused
Car will continue consume electricity thus drain down much faster
Because car battery is attached
While other Li battery like drone battery can be unattached & stored.
Car battery pack are continuously drain over time
Congratulations Ian on a great informative video.
It appears you really know your stuff😂
The manual says fully charging is recommended once a week, and from less than 10% every 3-6 months (p93). I have seen a recent email from BYD that says continuous AC, not DC, is required for the benefits of the 10-100% charge cycle.
Hello, thanks for the video, it's very instructive and helpful. I'm a Seres 3 owner and I sometimes have the similar issues. As far as I know, our battery is also LFP, so same instructions are valid I guess.
Thank you for a very helpful video. Keep up the good work.
Awesome thank u from Indonesia. BYD seal owner.
Thanks ,well explained . It's clear to me the bhaviour when the battery is unbalanced but can you please explain how the battery get into unbalanced state on the first place , it sound like wrong/bug in the charging managment ?
It is due to slight differences in cell performance. After several trip cycles these differences accumulate. Fully charging and equalising removes the differences. If you didn't do this the differences would continue to accumulate and ultimately seriously impede performance.
Thank you for this well presented and informative presentation. 12/01/2024
Almost all the manufacturers (NOT NISSAN) doesn't charge the cells to 100%, so you see charged 100% but it's not really at 4,30v at cell level, so is safe to charge it at full capacity.
(I repeat NISSAN charges at maximun voltage at cell level, so you better not charge it al 100%)
No margins eh? Probably want you to replace your battery early. Negates the point of having EVs.
Wow, thanks for the video. What happens if I did not unplugged the charger after reaching 100%? Because I usually charge at night and I am not able to monitor the exact time that it reach 100%.
Great info, Thanks so much for explaining!
Thanks for the useful information
This video is a masterpiece!!
Thanks for the detailed explanation!
Hello, a basic question: how is it more correct to charge the batteries in a 61KWH electric vehicle.
At low current let's say about 6AH for about 15 hours or 12AH for 7 hours.
I do believe that an LFP battery is still a lithium ion battery. I think that you are referring to nickel, manganese, cobalt chemistry lithium ion batteries Vs lithium, iron, phosphate chemistry lithium ion batteries. both use the migration of lithium ions through an electrolyte from one electrode to the other.
I also think that it would be more accurate to say that regularly charging an LFP battery to 100% is less damaging than doing so with a NMC battery rather than saying that regularly charging an LFP battery to 100% is perfectly fine.
Some studies have shown that maintaining a low state of charge is better for longevity in LFP batteries, but occasionally charging to 100% to maintain cell balance is essential.
Also, the slower a battery is charged, the cooler it stays whilst charging. Heat is the enemy of any lithium ion battery when it comes to longevity. Fast charging heats the battery more than slow charging and therefore degrades the battery faster.
the worst case scenario would be to deplete the battery to a very low state of charge and then fast charge to 100%. both the low state of charge and the 100% state of charge degrade the battery and the extra heat during fast charging degrades it even more.
Conversely, the best case scenario would have to be more frequent, shorter charge times at a slower, cooler rate, and from a mid range state of charge.
Daily slow charging, at home, on a 10 amp outlet, from around 60% to around 80%, with a monthly charge to 100%, would give the greatest life span for an LFP battery. If this can be done overnight , using off peak rates, it is also by far the cheapest way to charge.
Sorry to disagree but LFP batteries are lithium iron phosphate
@@BYD_Telsa @BYD_Telsa Please, don't be sorry. You didn't disagree at all. That is exactly what I said.
Please read all of my comment. Specifically the second sentence.
please justify your comment and let me know what part of my comment was incorrect.
Is an LFP battery not a lithium ion battery that works by utilising the flow of ions from one electrode to the other electrode via an electrolyte? In the case of an LFP battery, lithium ions?
I understand that Wikipedia can be inaccurate but there are many other great references to information about the workings of lithium ion batteries including LFP batteries.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery
Maybe you should Google it.
If your particular skill set is limited to TH-cam, there are still some great resources that are available to you.
Here, let me help you. Just follow this URL.
th-cam.com/video/Eqm8OVCwMrg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LDrELRG32nuVy3eX
Let this lovely lady give you some knowledge of the CONTENT OF YOUR TH-cam CHANNEL.
Great video
Great video, thank you.
Hi. Great video. Does the NMC battery require top up to a certain percentage for the management system to balance the battery? Tesla Model Y setting recommends charging to maximum 80% for daily driving. I’m just wondering whether to once a week or once a month, top up to 100% for recalibration (if that’s how it works for my Model Y type of battery, NMC is it?)
Not sure, I think it is easier for the management to detect the individual cell charge level
thank you for explaning the cell balancing concept. i never charge my battery to 100%. I always use DC to charge my car to 70% and keep using it til ～15%. How often u recommend to full charge the battery so the atto 3 has a chance to balance its cell? to keep battery healthy and accurate mileage ?
Thanks
The recommendation from BYD is to charge to 100% at least once a week
Excellent 👍🏼
abone oldum, çok değerli bilgiler, teşekkürler
Should you still discharge and then fully charge the Atto 3 at around the 3K km mark?
What about draining the battery to
Under 10% is needed for BYD Blade LFP batteries, to help the BMS better show correct battery percentage. Also charge uninterrupted to 100% on AC from under 10%.
Very helpful, thanx. 🙂
Thank you very useful
LFP chemistry has its limits at 3.65V and 2.5V. Anything above and below that can degrade the cells and you won't be getting the expected life cycles which is around 10K.
LFP can cause problems with giving an accurate range. If you think you will get 480km every time you charge and drive in the city, then go on a trip on the open road that 480km will not be achievable and you could get caught out in both speed and low temperature.
Thats not an issue with the battery technology. It is the software that reports the range.
@@BYD_Telsa no your actuality wrong, LFP have a different voltage that drops at a different rate, that is the main reason that the battery needs to be charged to 100% as LFP is not even at discharging. People think LFP is a perfect battery but all batteries have their pros and cons and LFP is no different
,Cheers mate, thank you for your input. I would like to read more info on what you are saying. Can you point me to a source or publication. Appricate.
@@BYD_Telsa Also LFP are much safer for thermal runaway but they are not immune to that, even the BYD Blade batteries have had some fires in their home country of China. The good old Nissan Leaf actually has had the best record of fires with over 500,000 sold as far as far as I have seen only a single fire has been reported and that fire no information on the cause. The nail test done on the blade battery is a little misleading as that battery is very long so that single nail was just a very small part of the battery.
Having said that I am still very interested in the upcoming BYD Dolphin and its on my short list with its Atto 3 drivetrain and 60kwh battery!
When I charge mine it doesn't show calculating when it reaches 99% as your video shows. Ps do you have to run the battery down to
Thank you for the video. Quick question which battery capacity does your BYd Atto 3 has because it shows 480km range with a full charge. Mine is 420Km. Thanks
most probably his is an extended range and yours is a standard range atto
Minimal fast charging only when needed
As fast charging degrade battery life even LFP as it has Li
Charge LFP 80% to keepn battery life near max, ramge also
Charge to 100% to rebalanced as u indicated, it dies degrade LFP battery faster 100% charge by 3x however LFP still last lifetime car bit eill loose km range.
Li ion inside
Great.. now we know why... but if you charge to 110% and balance your battery then go on a long journey...how do you know if your battery is still balanced by the time you get to 20%?
It will not get out of balance in a single cycle, but over a few cycles
Thanks for clearing that one up. Off to buy one today in no small part because your videos have given me the confidence to do so.
Superb explanation! Thank you for your work!
Thanks for the very useful info. Out of interest, once you reach 100% on the Atto 3, should you be disconnecting the power from the vehicle, or is it ok to leave it connected until you next drive the car (even if that's days?)
Ok to leave
Once the charger reaches the prescribed max voltage indicating 100% the built in car charging equipment will not accept anymore charge.
Can I DC fast charge my Atto 3 to 100%? Or would it damage the car? I do it 100% AC but not sure about DC fast charging.
This was soooo good. Ta so much!!!!
What wall charger should I get, please? I have only one phase. Thanks
Grand job 👍.
Thank you very nice info 👏👏
Great video. I charge mine to 100 regularly. How often to you advise to run it down to under 10%?
From my understanding there is neither an advantage or disadantage in dropping to 10%. So when you need to.
@@BYD_Telsa Sweet
The manual says fully charging is recommended once a week, and from less than 10% every 3-6 months (p93). I have seen a recent email from BYD that says continuous AC, not DC, is required for the benefits of the 10-100% charge cycle.
Great video thank you
Very interesting thank you
Thanks very helpful.
Thank you sir
Nice video
Hi, when my battery charging near completion it doesn't show calculating what does that mean any problem thanks
No its good, my understanding is that the battery will not report 100% till it is balanced.
@@BYD_Telsa thanks for your help
What's the constant banging sound in the background?
The AC sometimes provokes one, two or even three low banging sounds in the background when the battery is still "cold". But, as I was told, this is of little concern.
I have an Atto 3. Does it hurt to charge up in small amounts e.g. 20% here 40% there? Re are there limited cycles for the blade battery?
It's probably better if you can manage it, to do a single intermediate charge of 50%, eg from 30-80% as this allows the pack temperature to even out, I believe the optimal pack temp for fast charging is around 35C.
What I do is one slow AC charge to 100% once per week (every Sunday).
Around town, we do about 40km per day on average, sometimes a bit more. If I need additional juice during the week I wait till it reaches 30-35% and then DC fast charge to no more than 85%. This typically takes 35 minutes on the 50KW fast charger across the street.
I normally do this at around 10pm when it's nice and cool and use the time to catch up on email etc. Outside of trips, I only use the fast charger about once per month.
I think this routine helps keep the battery in good condition. But I am probably overdoing it.
If you are doing a trip I recommend continuing the DC fast charge until you get charge rate roll back (usually between 85 and 95%).
In my experience, from 95% the LR Atto easily does 300km cruising at 95-105kmh with 15% in reserve. However, energy consumption rises very quickly at speeds over 105kmh.
The best range speed is about 85kmh.
I like how you tell us what you do, how, when, why and then how you utilize your time whilst ie (catching up on emails).
How did you deternine 85km/hr as optimal?
Ta
Manual says full charge once a week, and let it deplete to sub 10% every 3-6 months
Still waiting for the ev market to develop that killer battery.
Only question I have is that do i need to do calibration charge meaning twice a year, charge from
Well, then why on some machines you can set the charge limit to 80%? for example zeekr 001, you can adjust the charge up to 80%
Some batteries shouldn’t be charged past 80% as a rule unless a travel plan necessitates it. The Atto 3 battery is of a type that is happy to be fully charged.
Non of you talk about the battery buffer so take hyundai and kia 64kW battery this is available to use butvthe battery is actually 67.8kw so you never ever get to a point where you fully discharge. The battery has a buffer.
Stellantis has 50kw but most have between 43.6 and 45.5kw avisble to use. So there is a big portion of the battery not being used so you never get to full discharge.
The bms should be averaging out the cells and reporting the average charge.
Also bms should not be allowing huge variations between cells. The bms are not that primitive. This was an issue in the very early car pre leaf but this should not be the case with post leaf vehicles. If this is happening then your bms software is faulty.
Plus you have not covered the different charging type ac v dc .
I have to say the owner manual on battery management in kia and hyundai is very comprehensive and there more in the digital version compared to printed . So I am very surprised you say there not much in atto 3 . I looked atvthe owners manual today there is 14 pages of information talking about different types of charging ac abd dc the temperatures about not going below 15% and avoid going above 95% on each charge.
So for you to say there not much you are wrong.
Pls convert your videos into hindi as well as other languages using AI and you wud have many more subscribers!!!
Technically this is wrong, LFP still doesn't "like" below 20 and above 80 but it's more resilient to it
Sorry to disagree, but all manufacturers of vehicles with LFP batteries all say charge to 100% regularly.
factory should have calibration the SOC at 0 and 100 levels.
Ar u sure the BYD Atto 3 is lithium iron phospqte😂
I know it's sodium😂
Great video thank-you