If you are in the rust belt , one advantage of a rattling hich ( not a good one) is that it keeps breaking up the rust, reducing the chances of rust jacking seizing the drawbar in the reciver hich.
I do not leave it in during the winter months. Just during the summer since I tow almost every week to 2 weeks. The U-bolt is long enough where I do not have to remove the new nuts, just loosen them enough so the bootom piece comes clear of the hitch lip.
LOL, I know that one, seen that at my old job were we never pulled the hitches as we dropped boats into salt water several times a day. After the while the hitches hole become oval because of all the towing. I have moved to a solid hitch. My hollow hitches are for emergancy back up only.
I did not like the Trimax hitch clamp. The threads were chromed for some reason and it galled up in the nuts. I could not remove it from my hitch after the second use. Also, the bottom plate was not long enough to hook under the square receiver collar on my truck. My collar looks to be a little wider than yours though.
Sorry to hear that. You can fabricate one by buying a galvinized U-Bolt from like, Amazon or E-Trailer.com, that will fit around your hitch. If you have a really good Hardware store, they to may have a selection of U-Bolts. Stay away from the Zinc cover U-Bolts, they do not have the tensil strength. As for the bottom plate, I would use 1/4" steel that will be long enough to fit under the hitch and the received. Then have someone weld a small piece at each end and drill 2 holes for the U-Bolt to pass thru. If no one can weld, have the ends bent up around 30-45 degrees. The ends will press up against the receiver and hitch and the U-Bolt will make is super snug. If you have a metal shop near by, they can create the steel plate for a very reasonable cost. My Trimax is still holding on so far and my max weight so far on it has been around 6500-6700lbs.
You did all of that research only to choose the one that busts the most. From what I have been reading, the hardware that this company uses, will seize after a short amount of time. Customers are having to snap it off it hasn't already broken off. Good job. As long as they pay you though, right? I wonder how many undocumented accidents this chrome paint over cheap bolts caused.
@@bigguydiy2184 That's accurate with all of the comments. As long as you want it in one place FOREVER, it will work. Once you try to undo it, the hardware is unusable.
Whats funny, your comment got my wheels rolling in my head and actually kept me up. I am one of those thinkers when I work on something I run it thru my head a million times before and after a repair, but you brought up a valid point. What got me thinking is those who have broken theirs, I would love the info (as others) what were they towing, how much weight, what were the road conditions (hills, backroads, dirt roads, highway, etc) I know there is a weight limit to what this product can handle but I have not hit it yet. My F150 is 7K lbs max but I have gone passed that a couple times on short distances (under 10 miles). I also know this is a casted product which means it is porous and definitly has it's limits vs of it was CNC from a solid block of steel or Aluminum. If this ever breaks, I have a local metal fabrication company near by and I can draw up a new one using 1/2" steel plate as the bottom piece, As for the U-Bolt, that can be found at any well supplied trailer shop or trailer parts place on line. I have replaced a few U-bolts on past trailers on axles and bed holddowns. When and if this breaks, I will add a comment and pin it so other know when and how it happened.
The product that may break or the product I am using. The video is on the Trimax Antirattle Hitch. @markrosenthal5072 was claiming other have broken this product, but I have not....
Nice product I have the flat steel one but I only tow up to 3000 pounds it is working for me. Another thing on your receiver into your hitch. I actually bolt that on with a grade 8 bolt with a nylon lock nut. And the trailer hitch ball. I actually weld the threads to the nut so it cannot come loose and they can’t take the ball off with the hitch and take the trailer. The lock pin is OK but they can break that off very easily. But like everything if they want it, they’ll take it but they are going to have to work at it to take trailer and draw bar.
I'm very fortunate to be in a area where we do not have a trailer theft problem. When I am up North, all trailers and vehicles are parked tightly together and there is literally no one around where my friends house is located. Very fortunate. Yes, I agree, if they really want it, the theives will find a way.
I like the concept, but a couple negatives in my view. #1: It’s made in China. So I’m sure the bolts are made of a lower grade steel. #2: The body is made of aluminum…not ideal. Hopefully an American company can improve on the concept and make it with more robust materials. I’m sure it’s adequate for your use. Thanks for the video.
I agree with #1, I try to stay with US made stuff, but it's either not availible or very hard to find. If this should fail, I will have a local metal fabricator make one for me. As for now, it has survived the winter salt showers with very little rust. Boating season will soon be on us and this will test it since the trailer and boat are around 6000 lbs +/- and my utility trailer with a load of logs usually exceed 7K lbs.
My trailer guide is no longer availible, but this is a similar product off of Amazon. www.amazon.com/HiTow-Trailer-Coupler-Connect-Alignment/dp/B07D1Z53HM/ref=asc_df_B07D1Z53HM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312153119455&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6875960672719256066&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003212&hvtargid=pla-570238078236&psc=1&mcid=a6104e5e7f643f4087133e98346862fd&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyKurBhD5ARIsALamXaEbVWzbUPkTOVfCPHaOx_44o0BnB6VbtPi4aDM6cBeC2SD1h4SJhdIaAj67EALw_wcB
I made one myself in 25 Minutes. works like a charm.
Nice, when ever I breaak this one, I'll fabricatre a new one.
If you are in the rust belt , one advantage of a rattling hich ( not a good one) is that it keeps breaking up the rust, reducing the chances of rust jacking seizing the drawbar in the reciver hich.
I do not leave it in during the winter months. Just during the summer since I tow almost every week to 2 weeks. The U-bolt is long enough where I do not have to remove the new nuts, just loosen them enough so the bootom piece comes clear of the hitch lip.
@bigguydiy2184 good deal. Ive seen some folks don't know and have to chain the drawbar to a tree to get it out
LOL, I know that one, seen that at my old job were we never pulled the hitches as we dropped boats into salt water several times a day. After the while the hitches hole become oval because of all the towing. I have moved to a solid hitch. My hollow hitches are for emergancy back up only.
The one with the plate on the bottom works just as well at a fraction of the price.
Still has not broken though for me. In the future, should I break it, I'll make one, but finding a good grade U-Bolt might be a long search.
I did not like the Trimax hitch clamp. The threads were chromed for some reason and it galled up in the nuts. I could not remove it from my hitch after the second use. Also, the bottom plate was not long enough to hook under the square receiver collar on my truck. My collar looks to be a little wider than yours though.
Sorry to hear that. You can fabricate one by buying a galvinized U-Bolt from like, Amazon or E-Trailer.com, that will fit around your hitch. If you have a really good Hardware store, they to may have a selection of U-Bolts. Stay away from the Zinc cover U-Bolts, they do not have the tensil strength. As for the bottom plate, I would use 1/4" steel that will be long enough to fit under the hitch and the received. Then have someone weld a small piece at each end and drill 2 holes for the U-Bolt to pass thru. If no one can weld, have the ends bent up around 30-45 degrees. The ends will press up against the receiver and hitch and the U-Bolt will make is super snug.
If you have a metal shop near by, they can create the steel plate for a very reasonable cost.
My Trimax is still holding on so far and my max weight so far on it has been around 6500-6700lbs.
You did all of that research only to choose the one that busts the most. From what I have been reading, the hardware that this company uses, will seize after a short amount of time. Customers are having to snap it off it hasn't already broken off. Good job. As long as they pay you though, right? I wonder how many undocumented accidents this chrome paint over cheap bolts caused.
Well, has not broken off. Zero issue.
@@bigguydiy2184 That's accurate with all of the comments. As long as you want it in one place FOREVER, it will work. Once you try to undo it, the hardware is unusable.
Whats funny, your comment got my wheels rolling in my head and actually kept me up. I am one of those thinkers when I work on something I run it thru my head a million times before and after a repair, but you brought up a valid point. What got me thinking is those who have broken theirs, I would love the info (as others) what were they towing, how much weight, what were the road conditions (hills, backroads, dirt roads, highway, etc) I know there is a weight limit to what this product can handle but I have not hit it yet. My F150 is 7K lbs max but I have gone passed that a couple times on short distances (under 10 miles). I also know this is a casted product which means it is porous and definitly has it's limits vs of it was CNC from a solid block of steel or Aluminum. If this ever breaks, I have a local metal fabrication company near by and I can draw up a new one using 1/2" steel plate as the bottom piece, As for the U-Bolt, that can be found at any well supplied trailer shop or trailer parts place on line. I have replaced a few U-bolts on past trailers on axles and bed holddowns. When and if this breaks, I will add a comment and pin it so other know when and how it happened.
Care to share name of a product that's better?
The product that may break or the product I am using. The video is on the Trimax Antirattle Hitch. @markrosenthal5072 was claiming other have broken this product, but I have not....
Nice product I have the flat steel one but I only tow up to 3000 pounds it is working for me. Another thing on your receiver into your hitch. I actually bolt that on with a grade 8 bolt with a nylon lock nut. And the trailer hitch ball. I actually weld the threads to the nut so it cannot come loose and they can’t take the ball off with the hitch and take the trailer. The lock pin is OK but they can break that off very easily. But like everything if they want it, they’ll take it but they are going to have to work at it to take trailer and draw bar.
I'm very fortunate to be in a area where we do not have a trailer theft problem. When I am up North, all trailers and vehicles are parked tightly together and there is literally no one around where my friends house is located. Very fortunate. Yes, I agree, if they really want it, the theives will find a way.
With that hitch, you must keep your balls greased well... The tongue weight of "that Big Fat Thing" LOL is under 800 lbs.???
LOL, Well greased. I need to get a tongue weight done. I think I have a scale that can measure it.
Is the bolt stainless?
Yes.
I like the concept, but a couple negatives in my view. #1: It’s made in China. So I’m sure the bolts are made of a lower grade steel. #2: The body is made of aluminum…not ideal. Hopefully an American company can improve on the concept and make it with more robust materials. I’m sure it’s adequate for your use. Thanks for the video.
I agree with #1, I try to stay with US made stuff, but it's either not availible or very hard to find. If this should fail, I will have a local metal fabricator make one for me. As for now, it has survived the winter salt showers with very little rust. Boating season will soon be on us and this will test it since the trailer and boat are around 6000 lbs +/- and my utility trailer with a load of logs usually exceed 7K lbs.
good video. I am going to order one for mine. I also like the back up receiver shroud. I googled it but no luck. Can you provide me what it is called?
My trailer guide is no longer availible, but this is a similar product off of Amazon.
www.amazon.com/HiTow-Trailer-Coupler-Connect-Alignment/dp/B07D1Z53HM/ref=asc_df_B07D1Z53HM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312153119455&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6875960672719256066&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003212&hvtargid=pla-570238078236&psc=1&mcid=a6104e5e7f643f4087133e98346862fd&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyKurBhD5ARIsALamXaEbVWzbUPkTOVfCPHaOx_44o0BnB6VbtPi4aDM6cBeC2SD1h4SJhdIaAj67EALw_wcB