วีดีโอ

enjoyed the video but the background music has to go! terribly annoying!!

I bought brand new switched and they still don't unlock and lock

Just replaced my water pump on my 2014 F150 XLT. One broken bolt, one broken tap, ground a 15mm to a 14mm bolt, tons of Grey gasket maker, 242 loctite on EVERY DAMN BOLT, just finished barely in time for the weekend snow fall. Got truck plugged in for block heater take affect. Only needs plugged in for like 2-4 hours before starting and going to work. Over night plugging in, you don't need to unless weather like -20°F then by all means, make sure you have the correct gauge extension cord. I keep mine in my truck.

Environment tax? What in the hell is that?

i just bought this helmet.. i love it so much it works great for me

1. You forgot to remove the plastic inserts from the inside of the shark bite. Those are only intended for use with PEX and similar plumbing. 2. One should be careful not to mistakenly connect to a hot water line for a refrigerator. A humidifier connection is similar to this, but should be connected to a hot water line.

Fantastic video man. Very good explanation. You refer to two plates, the one of the manifold and one on the cross pipe under the truck. I have a 2011 F150 and I get the sound when I touch the gas pedal, mostly in reverse, but it does happen in drive. I had this fixed before and on the invoice Ford said "found a loose heat shield on exhaust Y pipe due to broken heat shield clamp." Where about would I find this heat shield. I am sure the problem this time is exactly the same as last time.

Mainer I see, me too, western Maine here. Doing this same replacement, thanks for the demo!

Great job! I have a 2012 Renegade X and I have some heavy duty springs that I need to install. Thanks for the information.

This is one hell of a great helmet review. Now I'm thinking about buying a Mission helmet. I have the BV2S and love it except for the condensation that builds up around the breath deflector. I gave up on the absorbing pads. Take care!

I know this is an old video, what held on the bottom tabs on the tank? Pulling a 2002 Summit 800 and those 2 bottom are a bugger.

I found that There is a hole on each end of switch. Use small screw driver and pry up slightly as you release tabs. Makes switch removal even easier.

its called a snap ring😉

Thanks for the video, it helped me get through a similar project. In my case, the lamp had already been taken to pieces, including the socket. I got the same Satco socket shown in the video, and a new Satco 3-way LED mogul bulb. The Satco instructions were a joke, but otherwise all is well. Since everything was taken apart, including the metal shell that holds up the glass shade, I was having a tough time getting it all lined up again. I had started with the base installed on the lamp pipe as shown in the video. I ended up removing the base, assembling the base to the socket inside the shell, then adding the knob to the switch. Then I screwed the whole thing on to the lamp pipe. Not ideal, since the cord has to twist around a couple of times inside the lamp pipe, but it seems to have worked out. I had the lamp up on blocks, making it easier for the cord to turn and not stay too twisted. Maybe the lamp factory had a better way do it, no idea. A couple of notes on the electrical front. Not an expert, but I've rewired a few table lamps. The cord only has to be 18 gauge, and the Satco instructions actually say that, although they say as "NO. 18 A.W.G.". The video mentions that the extension cord used as a replacement was 16 gauge, so that's actually heavier than required. The Satco instructions also say you should tin the wires, although they don't mention bending them into a hook shape as the video shows. I tried it without the solder at first, and the wires pulled right off the terminals. I think the video shows the same thing on the first try. The tinning seems to be necessary because the terminals are just flat. That's fine for solid wire, but normal lamp sockets have nubs or recesses to hold stranded wire in place. The solder converts the stranded wire to solid wire, in effect. The video says there's "no positive or negative", true, but not quite right, there is hot and neutral. The socket has a copper-colored screw for the hot wire, and a silver screw for the the neutral wire. Almost any plug you can buy today has a wide prong for neutral and a narrow prong for hot. The idea is that the neutral ends up connected to the outer shell of the the socket. So you're less likely to get a shock if you're changing a bulb and happen to touch the base of the bulb while it's still touching the outer shell of the socket. You can still get a shock if the house wiring is wrong, or if you stick your finger down inside the socket after removing the bulb. So unplugging the lamp is not a terrible idea. With lamp cord (or an extension cord), the hot wire has a smooth casing, and the neutral wire has a "ribs", so it feels a little rough. Sometimes the neutral wire has a white stripe, but most often not. Any printing is usually on the neutral wire. I use a continuity tester to make sure the wide prong of the plug goes to the outer shell of the lamp. It should always be connected, regardless of the lamp switch. If so, your tester will light up or beep to indicate continuity. (You might also want to verify that the hot prong isn't connected to any metal parts on the outside of the lamp, and try all switch positions for that.) The video ends up replacing the cord. I would always do that anyway, especially if the cord was over 50 years old. The old cord in the video looked kind of sketchy to me. I ended getting 18 gauge lamp cord with a clear gold coating. That makes it easier to see the condition of the wire. I also got a matching gold plug, also clear, with prongs that swing in to pierce the wire, so no stripping needed on that end. My old-time hardware store with wood floors cheerfully sells lamp cord by the foot. You can buy 12-foot cords complete with plug for less on Amazon. The video shows the lamp originally had a knot in the cord just before it exited the base. Good idea, I had tried to do an underwriter's knot up at the socket end, but that wasn't going to fit. You do need something for strain relief. You may think the lamp won't be abused, but you never know what children or animals will come up with, especially since your rebuild may be good for the next 50 years. Technical notes aside, I really did enjoy the video. I had never even heard of a mogul socket before I saw this lamp, which was kind of a jigsaw puzzle at that point. The video showed me how things were supposed to go together. The video has a couple of false starts, but I went through a lot worse with my project. I'm still not sure that my final assembly method was the best idea, but it did get the job done.

Absolutely fantastic detail in this review. I’ve researched this helmet for several days and this review solidifies the decision for this helmet. Thanks, and well done!

Nice fix ! My truck is lifted and it’s such an issue for me . Thanks for posting

Nice and thorough review!

Excellent video. Thanks for the comparison and walkaround. It's good to know the tidbit about the undercoating/flooring. The biggest advantage of two axles is in the event of a flat, the trailer is still driveable and can be pulled over and dealt with. On a single-axle trailer, it's typically a much more catastrophic event. Also, you mentioned hauling three sleds. 3 short track MXZ 850s weigh about 550 lbs each when full of gas. Add in a bunch of gear, I'd assume you are very close to or exceeding the payload of 1690 lbs.

What app are you running on your Garmin to navigate the trail system where you live? Great video by the way!

Amazing video ,.. just that music in the back ground brother gave me a headache. Blessings

Good job

Double axle rides better. I’m not buying into the advantech being a lifetime product. You did a good job with your review and cost comparison I have too wonder on a hot sunny day if a black trailer would cause adhesion failure with the 3m tape between studding and wall skin. Yes it helped. I like buying local. But I’m not sold. I do like the diamond plate on the front. I would like too see rear stabilizers

Thanks for the video. My 2011 F150 has the lock/unlock button on driver door that doesn't work at all. Do you recommend trying this fix? Thanks

Great video. I have a 1971 Mercury 800 which is new to me with the same manual tilt mechanism. I didn't understand the linkage between forward selection and the manual release.

Nice video. Big guy. I was wondering if you have a picture with your sleds inside of it? Thank you.

Great vid. Very informative. I just got one. They are very well made and like you said it’s a great value over the long haul. Pun intended.

I have a similar Toro 8.25. Just has pedal on the left side a slight in the center near the steering column with a lever for the break I need to buy a battery for it. The person that gave it to me tells me the battery does not charge and where would I find a model number on this rear engine mower? If by any chance you have information on this, please get back to me. Thank you. Have a good day. Pleasant weekend Happy Holidays.

thank you for the video. Looking to buy one this week. Can you send recommendations of the other trailer brands you mentioned?

How did you load the backwards sled? Is it difficult? Does the snow flap get caught on the track? Got a video of that?

I haven’t watched any other vids, because I don’t think I need to. You gave me the confidence to do this myself! I wish you had more Mazda 3 vids. ❤

It’s a tough job. Every video teaches you something. Thank you!

Nice!

Love it 🙌

Just finished this fix , your video was by far most helpful . I didn’t even have any leftover parts !

Literally followed this video step for step and just finished my own brakes and rotors for the first time ever. Thank you for the education and confidence to try 😀

Thank you for making this video. It was the exact error I was experiencing and this fixed it. Grateful that the wire harness is so much cheaper today. Got mine for around $32 on Amazon.

Your tutorial was very good, but either your timing for making a video sucks or your neighbor is a giant dick.

How far from the end of the trailer did you drill the hole to anchor the spring? Thanks!

Thanks Big Guy. I’ve been looking at them at some stupid prices. Yours is the best 🇨🇦👍

Awesome thanks guys

Ty you sir. I just did mines today greatly appreciated

Carpenter bees love to drill holes in my pressure-treated deck

Great detail and good effort in being clear with your communication. I appreciate your clearity. Nice work, thanks again.

Where did you order springs

That was some great engineering. Awesome job!

Be better prepared, brother.

Hi I enjoyed your video. Can you build one for me. I don’t need it until next year. How much

There called a gate valve

Thanks a lot for the video really helped out! 💪🏿

Nicely done, that's better than the gorilla lift design. However, not all trailers have the tube frame at the top, like yours does, so not everyone can do it just like that.