Mini Drak - Back in the Air
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- After the previous flight where I lost all thrust on the Mini Drak and had to put it down in a field (no damage thank goodness), I needed to try and sort out the issue.
Thinking the 80A ESC had thermal-ed out and cut the juice I upped it to a 120A one.
Also the amps I was pulling was getting really close to the limit of the current sense resistor shunt on the Matek F405-WMN I swapped it out for one of the new F405-Wing V2 units.
Now it was time to test fly it...
Yeah, that takeoff scares the hell out of me too Caroline!
It works though! :)
I shouted out "De-sync" after the 2nd or 3rd drop. Looked just like what I had with a quad one time. That woman clearly had too many dogs to control them all!
I was trying to fly it fairly close so I could hear what was happening. Yep, de-sync. Way too many dogs LOL!!
That was fun! The interaction with the "wolf pack walker! OMG, that launch!!! Is that the way? AWESOME!!!! If that is a mini, how big is a regular? WOW!
It's the only way I can get this beast flying - you have to trust the autolaunch of INAV. There are three sizes of Drak, Nano (too small), Drak (too big), and Mini (just right) :D
Braver than me. I'da brought that sucker in right away.
It flies so well and once I realised I could reset the ESC and get power back, I was less worried about going down far far away! :)
Vroooomm!!! Now thats fast!
It can be, if I can keep that prop spinning!
Had desync issues with a quad a while ago and I think I remember adjusting the ramp up power in blheli 32 and that helped.
Interesting! The ramp is currently set to 'normal' whatever that is in hobbywing talk.
What fun would it be if everything worked perfectly every time??? Still a good flight!
True, but it wasn't a fun flight, I wanted to really push it.
Change the motor and it should be right. Even the old esc you used are very good, never had a bad one in that make. Nice set up all the same.
It's gotta be the motor, right?
@@Caroline_Tyler I certainly think so but never had that before. How many dogs does a person need. That was stupid.
I guess she makes other people's dogs dirty for a living! :D
Regarding the amp drop you might put a 470nf 35V (very good ones are Rubicon 470nf 35V ZLH) condensator to the lipo input pads on your FC. That helps the current sensor to recognize lower amp draws more sensitive. If you have talked to "Grumpy" already you should know some things to try out regarding the desyncs. Most times it´s just little settings in BLheli32.
She will excel once dialed in ;-)
Thanks! :)
Added a nice low ESR cap.
never a dull moment on the ground or air :) hope work it out
Well, I've changed the motor, another test flight ahead!
I think motor as well. What motor are you running on it? I'm glad you got it gone undamaged
Cobra 2814/10 1700Kv which is the recommended 'secret sauce' motor. Looking at it shows no damage, no burnt out windings but it doesn't seem to get on with the ESC.
Nice upgrades Caroline, guess the motor will be the next thing. What does Motor re-syncing mean, not heard of this.
It's de-syncing.... most brushless motors do not have a rotation sensor, instead the back-EMF induced in the coils is used to keep the rotating magnetic rotor in sync with the motor's core. If it doesn't sense right, the ESC protects itself by stopping. I had already set the timing to 8 degrees which is slap bang in the middle of the 5-10 degrees the motor specifies so it couldn't be that. The only common factor from last failed flight is the motor.
@@Caroline_Tyler well I did not know that, thanks. Have a great weekend. 🫡
Hoverboards and crawler type RC cars use sensored motors which allow them to rotate smoothly at low speed.
Most older ESC designs don't cope well at high RPM, cut off being somewhere around 32,000 I think. I had this on a high speed park flyer and the problem went away once I installed a surprisingly cheap ZTW Beatles G2 32bit ESC.
Thanks, I will certainly try that should the next test flight show motor/power issues :)
Tested today - still de-syncing, I may have to try your suggestion!
@@Caroline_Tyler you can also try reducing RPM with a different prop, but I found that once an ESC has hit its RPM limit a few times, the problem seems to stick unless you really reduce it. Like 1400kv and 8". But then you've changed your top end.
I need to do something, this motor/prop combo is mad - I hit 258kph - but at 156 Amps!!!
@@Caroline_Tyler holy moly!!! Lol
Awesome. thanks for watching. do you resolve Syncro ESC ? do you try another protocol? lot Dshot 600 trouble, some ave better on Dshot 300 or multishot.
Thank you! No, it's not resolved yet. I have been in contact with the German distributor of the Mini Drak who has made some excellent suggestions which I will try out. This plane fly's so well I need to get this niggling issue resolved. Neither of the ESCs I have tried so far support anything other than PWM, so I have ordered yet another ESC that supports DSHOT fully and if the other things don't resolve the issue I will give that a go.
I went with the nano drak because i was afraid of trying to launch the mini. I started using the Badass branded ESC which i think are just ztw but have been good
The Hobbywing brand have never given me these sort of issues before, it's rather frustrating. I'm SLOWLY getting used to over head launches, but you really have to put your trust in autolaunch! :)
What motor are you using? sounds like a typical decync. maybe it's the timing in your esc.
The motors I have tried are T-Motor 2820 1700KV and the recommended Cobra 2814 1700kV. the timing was initally 15 degrees but I have also tried them at 8 degrees as the Cobra recommends 5-10 degrees.
Get a Flycolor HV
Work great with 3115 Brotherhobby 1520kv and 6s
They are blheli32 👍🏻
Or check advance and pwm freq in the hobbywing settings. Its annoying to do without programming box 🙈
The Hobbywing Platium 120A is 32bit at 72Mhz and I have set the advance according to the motor specs.... So that's two Hobbywing ESCs I have tried - both with the same issue. I may have to get a Flycolor HV and try it.
@@Caroline_Tyler
Hobbywings are usually pretty bulletproof… I would try reducing advance
Also you could try raising throttle slowly. It might only happen from really low throttle
Yes, a sudden increase in throttle does seem to trigger it more, but it still happens even when at a fairly constant throttle level. Next video will show that.
did you program the esc do you have enough air flow over it
Yes, I bought the fancy Hobbywing programming unit especially and yes, the ESC was barely warm. More tests to come!
lol has to be said again that's a scary as f...take off anyway dogs aside cool footage .....ps my flo would have been good as gold lol
I'm sure she would have, but that's only one dog. She had so many, no way she had any control over them. In the flight footage you can see her trying to get the dogs in her car and they are running all over the road, talk about danger!!!
Is the battery ok?
Yep, battery is fine. The current dropped to Flight Controller/servos and VTX power levels, voltage was solid.
Looks like running motor power through your FC isn't such a good idea....I NEVER do it...An amp counter is only as good as its calibration, and besides, you can just watch the battery voltage if your going long range. An incredible amount of noise comes from the ESC, this is why I never do it...Just use an amp meter to ascertain maximum amp draw, its not like it will change...To test this, simply rig the motor directly to the esc and use a servo tester to throttle it...I think its your amp counter on your FC crapping out..and starving your ESC...🤔🤔😮😳😏😏🇬🇧
I do find a current sensor is really useful, and yes, once I get the plane flying well enough I calibrate it properly.
The original F405-WMN I was a bit worried about it's ability to handle the current but the replacement FC has peak 220A capability so I don't have a worry about that.
I ALWAYS use the current sensor on the FC - if I used an external current sensor it would use a tiny value resistor to do get that reading.
The power would need to go to the board to run the BECs which power all the other bits so I might as will use the built-in current sensor and on all the planes I have used a Matek FC I have never had an issue with the current sensor.
@@Caroline_Tyler Okay, I just run a lighter gauge power and ground from the flight Lipo to power the FC....I'd still do the suggested test bypassing the FC...at least it will tell you it's not the FC or noise from that big new Speedo.....It's easy enough to do...🤔🤔🤔😳🇬🇧
@EnglishTurbines I have a couple of more things to try but should they not prove out I will try your suggestion :)
@@Caroline_Tyler Okay, no probs. Sometimes it's better to prove what isn't the problem...I just remember the hideous electrical noise using an amp counter did to my old analogue video feed, despite numerous LC filters...lol...🤔😳😏😀
Hey Caroline, would you like to review our PNP drone?
Hmmmm, I have to admit I have looked at your products and they are an interesting and unsual approach to a winged VTOL. I'll pass on your offer as I don't do this channel for any sort of profit. Thank you for offering.
Ok understand. Thank you for your love for our products~🤝@@Caroline_Tyler
Try @Currykitten he's a great channel and he does reviews :)
Thank you very much for your recommendation, we will contact him@@Caroline_Tyler
i think motor problem , Can the bearings rotate easily?
Yes, nice smooth bearings, on both motors.