Frozen time effect macro photography
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 พ.ย. 2024
- Build a narrative build a set for still life product photography.
How to make long lasting condensate on glass or metal surfaces.
Phase One XF iQ3 100MP Medium format camera used for studio sill life photography.
Studio photography lighting techniques for Still Life, Visual Art, Products.
Still life captured with LED / flash / strobe / speedlight.
Build a narrative by adding detail to your set.
The laws of light and the physics of photography.
Lighting techniques to add interest to still life photography.
Everything is covered from studio lighting, through the tethered capture in Capture one software, to the final image in Adobe Photoshop.
Whether it’s studio flash, speedlight, strobe, LED, or daylight, easy techniques simply demonstrated.
Plus, some tips and tricks in Photoshop to help things along a little.
50 / 50 Glucose water mix.
Spray aerosol.
Small card reflectors.
Profoto studio flash.
Manfrotto 475B Pro Geared Tripod with 410 Junior Geared Head.
Phase One XF iQ3 100MP Medium format Camera.
120mm f4.5 Schneider Lens.
Phase One capture one software.
Hi, Tony.
This is an excellent video.
I have learned a lot from it.
Your creativity is just amazing, man.
Thanks a lot.
Antoine.
Awesome, thank you!
I enjoyed this video very much and I love the result ! The colors, the water drops and the movement effect ! Perfect 👍🏼Thank you 🙏🏽!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I thoroughly enjoyed this video. Learning with your nicely narrated video is always a great joy ❤❤❤
Thank you so much!
Another great job. Thanks again for the video. 👏👏👏
My pleasure!
Thank you very much Tony👏👏
You are very welcome
Very nice .
Thank you! Cheers!
Always a certain highlight of the day….thank you very much!!!
Thank you too!
You are looking much fresh and younger today. Thank you vary much for teaching. This episode is really an advance one. Enjoyed. Have a nice time.
Thank you! 😃
Very nice and thanks for the viscous glucose trick.
You’re welcome thanks for watching.
Another great video. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
Again: great work! The best tutorials on TH-cam, one can really learn a lot. Thank you so much
You're very welcome!
Great watch and a love,y image.
Glad you liked it.
Interesting little things that you shared that I am grateful for. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great in-depth video, thanks!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love your teaching…Thanks so much for sharing this information
You are so welcome!
I Like this very very much! Thank You!
I'm glad you like it
Outstanding tutorial.
Glad you think so!
Enjoyed your video. I think you will find that condensation works better if you apply Artists Varnish prior to the glucose/water mix.
Thanks for the tip!
I enjoyed learning how to do this type of shot. Just one point that I noticed, in the finished image we could see the shadow of the clamp on the blue surface.
Thank you for your comment, and thanks for watching.
Many thanks. I enjoyed this video. When photo-stacking would you choose f/5.6 instead of f/8 only when using a macro lens or would you recommend a wider aperture for any type of lens?
The aperture I use is inversely proportional to the amount of magnification a lot of magnification I would use a large aperture. hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
When it comes to focus stacking, depending on the subject I sometimes get better result with the aperture closed down more rather than opening it up. That is because out-of-focus elements in front can obscure the back when focus is on the back, if they cross in front of each other. (I hope it's clear what I mean, I find it a bit hard to explain).
I don't know if you have experienced something like that yourself and if so, if you have any solutions for that other than closing down aperture to make the out-of-focus front parts not as wide out of focus?
I find the order the images are loaded into the focus stacking software to be a factor in this for some subjects. Generally the higher the magnification the wider the aperture and more images for the best result. Hope that helps, thanks for watching.
@@CameraClubLive I understand that the wider aperture helps prevent diffraction. My problem however seems to be that sometimes, regardless of order of shooting or stacking, none of the images seem to have some parts sharp. For instance, with small flowers like cherry or apple blossom -- the stamen are in front of the petals. When the stamen are in focus the petals are not sharp. When the petals are sharp, the stamen are so much out of focus that the become a large blur covering part of the petal behind it. At narrower aperture, the blur-spot of the stamen becomes smaller because it is to a lesser degree out of focus. (I don't have an example photo at hand to demonstrate unfortunately).
Is that a problem you have ever encountered?