Hi, Tony. Another educational video. Since 80% of my work is still life, I learned much from this, my friend. Your channel is the only one that actually shows a lot of still-life work. And you understand that I am pleased with this. In fact, by using tips from you, my post-processing has become less complicated and less necessary. I am only jalouse on your studio I have just a little room to work in.😥 Thank you for that, my friend. I look forward to your next video. Antoine. (Netherlands)
You need the "lenser flag" cards to be black on both sides so you can blend them with the black cloth in the background. This will also prevent any bounce back to the lens.
Thanks for this very interesting tutorial. That inspires me to produce a series of kitchen images with slices of fruits and vegetables like kiwi and tomatos. A good project for the upcoming cold season.
Thanks for a great tutorial as always. I think I need a couple of lab stands, rather than the rickety set ups that I spend far too much time trying to stop them collapsing, or falling over 😅
Can you please provide the dimensions of the ARRI case you use to put objects on to photograph. I am thinking of getting one similar but don’t have lots of space. Thank you. I love your videos.
The ARRI case is 60x90cm and is 84cm off the floor, although the size of the surface is largely irrelevant as I use a variety of surfaces that are bigger or smaller then the top surface. Thanks for watching.
This is well explained, but has nothing to do with dark field photography. Also I am wondering what you have against lens hoods. Can be a hood or even a compendium (although probably not) would not make flagging indispensable, but it can not hurt.
Since you are taking a slice from the middle, you can use forks inserted into the bulk of the onion to keep it stable. A good sharp knife makes things easier, as well as a very stable cutting surface. Never use a dull knife, it’s dangerous. If you are using a cutting board on a gloss surface countertop, put a small kitchen towel under your cutting board to keep it stable. If your cutting board still wants to slide around, dampen the towel a small bit. To Camera Club Live: Shooter of many years here, I thoroughly enjoy your videos 😀
Joules for most purposes are the same as watts, at least in this instance. I really don't care how much power is used, I need to know the lumens. I see this error all over photography in explanations and when selling equipment. And just to round it out 1 lumen is the same as 1 candle or candle power. Since you offer excellent demonstrations, could you then use the proper terms. Otherwise we have to know the efficiency of the light source and do little simple math. So, it seems to me that it is easier to just say how bright your light is. Again, excellent videos. So in this instance of about 250 joules, what's the lumens?
Thanks for this tutorial 😀👍 But I have a question… Why did you increase the power of the flashlights by one stop and notate the aperture from f16 back to f8? Would the result be different? Thanks in advance for your answer which I really appreciate 😀
I did increase the flash energy by one stop, but left the aperture at f16 this was to increase the overall exposure. Hope that helps, thanks for watching.
@ I know but f/8 has plenty of depth of field for the thin union slice… Probably both options work but I’m just curious why is chosen to amplify the flash and not a bigger aperture. Both ways leads to capturing more light…
I take black paper, outline the onion, cut a millimeter smaller hole, put it on any glass, put any light under the glass because I have all the time I need since I'm shooting from a tripod. The onion is horizontal and I shoot from above. Takes away a lot of the hassle and editing in photoshop. If I have to paint in photoshop, I'll paint it straight...
Oh no, is it that complicated? If you already have a tripod and your subject is not moving, a single Chinese flashlight with adjustable beam width and color temperature is enough. I shoot such things in a dark room with a shutter speed of 10-20 seconds, during which time you can illuminate with a flashlight only what you need and from the angle that gives the best revealing of the object's texture. This works well for any kind of food. The "Light Brush" has no restrictions on the size of the virtual softbox and allows you to highlight dark areas to even out the contrast or add highlights. Your method definitely works, but there are simpler and more variable methods in terms of results. I use a flashlight to shoot a dozen different takes and adjust each subsequent one, getting the perfect light pattern without Photoshop.
What an excellent teacher you are! First rate!
Thank you! 😃
These are the best youtube studio photography videos !
Glad you like them!
You are a Master. Perfect technique and awesome style in describing your work, really a great pleasure to watch your videos. Thanks Sir.
My pleasure!
Hi, Tony.
Another educational video.
Since 80% of my work is still life, I learned much from this, my friend.
Your channel is the only one that actually shows a lot of still-life work.
And you understand that I am pleased with this.
In fact, by using tips from you, my post-processing has become less complicated and less necessary.
I am only jalouse on your studio I have just a little room to work in.😥
Thank you for that, my friend.
I look forward to your next video.
Antoine. (Netherlands)
Thank you, and thanks for watching.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Just discovered you, what an awesome pedagogy!
Thanks for watching
You need the "lenser flag" cards to be black on both sides so you can blend them with the black cloth in the background. This will also prevent any bounce back to the lens.
Thankyou for your comment.
Thanks, great interesting photo!
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for this very interesting tutorial. That inspires me to produce a series of kitchen images with slices of fruits and vegetables like kiwi and tomatos. A good project for the upcoming cold season.
Go for it! thanks for watching.
Always enjoy how you put these videos together, thank you Tony.
My pleasure!
Many thanks Tony for another excellent lesson on getting the very best out of studio lighting for still life
Thanks for watching.
Flipping love this guy..
Thank you for your comment.
Very interesting and a great photo!
Glad you enjoyed it
Excellent (as ever!). Thank you so much. All the best.
Many thanks!
Fantastic as always. Thank you very much for teaching. Have a nice time.
Thanks, you too!
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge, great teacher and great channel!!!
Many thanks!
Very interesting ! Thank you ! 🧅
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you agan
Your welcome.
Great!
Thanks for watching.
Great..
Glad you liked it.
Thanks for a great tutorial as always. I think I need a couple of lab stands, rather than the rickety set ups that I spend far too much time trying to stop them collapsing, or falling over 😅
Lab or retort stand, always useful for desk top photography. Thanks for watching.
Can you please provide the dimensions of the ARRI case you use to put objects on to photograph. I am thinking of getting one similar but don’t have lots of space. Thank you.
I love your videos.
The ARRI case is 60x90cm and is 84cm off the floor, although the size of the surface is largely irrelevant as I use a variety of surfaces that are bigger or smaller then the top surface.
Thanks for watching.
This is well explained, but has nothing to do with dark field photography.
Also I am wondering what you have against lens hoods. Can be a hood or even a compendium (although probably not) would not make flagging indispensable, but it can not hurt.
Thankyou for your comment, all comments help to grow my channel. Thanks for watching.
If I tried this, I'd probably have to spend a great deal of time getting a proper slice! Was it fairly easy for you?
Yes, it was very simple to produce a slice it doesn’t need to be accurate.
Since you are taking a slice from the middle, you can use forks inserted into the bulk of the onion to keep it stable. A good sharp knife makes things easier, as well as a very stable cutting surface. Never use a dull knife, it’s dangerous. If you are using a cutting board on a gloss surface countertop, put a small kitchen towel under your cutting board to keep it stable. If your cutting board still wants to slide around, dampen the towel a small bit.
To Camera Club Live: Shooter of many years here, I thoroughly enjoy your videos 😀
@@ohnoflicks Good idea. Thanks!
Joules for most purposes are the same as watts, at least in this instance. I really don't care how much power is used, I need to know the lumens. I see this error all over photography in explanations and when selling equipment. And just to round it out 1 lumen is the same as 1 candle or candle power. Since you offer excellent demonstrations, could you then use the proper terms. Otherwise we have to know the efficiency of the light source and do little simple math. So, it seems to me that it is easier to just say how bright your light is. Again, excellent videos. So in this instance of about 250 joules, what's the lumens?
Thank you for your comment.
Thanks for this tutorial 😀👍
But I have a question…
Why did you increase the power of the flashlights by one stop and notate the aperture from f16 back to f8?
Would the result be different?
Thanks in advance for your answer which I really appreciate 😀
I did increase the flash energy by one stop, but left the aperture at f16 this was to increase the overall exposure.
Hope that helps, thanks for watching.
He is keeping the depth of field the same by using f16.
@ I know but f/8 has plenty of depth of field for the thin union slice…
Probably both options work but I’m just curious why is chosen to amplify the flash and not a bigger aperture. Both ways leads to capturing more light…
I take black paper, outline the onion, cut a millimeter smaller hole, put it on any glass, put any light under the glass because I have all the time I need since I'm shooting from a tripod. The onion is horizontal and I shoot from above. Takes away a lot of the hassle and editing in photoshop. If I have to paint in photoshop, I'll paint it straight...
Thank you for your interest
I would probably raise the computer table by 50 cm so that I don't have to bend over a lot. Very very informative video by the way.
Thank you for your comment all comments help to grow my channel. Thanks for watching
Oh no, is it that complicated? If you already have a tripod and your subject is not moving, a single Chinese flashlight with adjustable beam width and color temperature is enough. I shoot such things in a dark room with a shutter speed of 10-20 seconds, during which time you can illuminate with a flashlight only what you need and from the angle that gives the best revealing of the object's texture. This works well for any kind of food.
The "Light Brush" has no restrictions on the size of the virtual softbox and allows you to highlight dark areas to even out the contrast or add highlights.
Your method definitely works, but there are simpler and more variable methods in terms of results. I use a flashlight to shoot a dozen different takes and adjust each subsequent one, getting the perfect light pattern without Photoshop.
Thank you for your comment
Здравствуйте, расскажите пожалуйста, как фотографировать монету, поделитесь опытом.
Possibly in the New Year thank you for watching.