Oil Pan Modifications for Turbo and 4 Bolt Main Small Block Ford
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ย. 2016
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While prepping the engine block for painting, we ran into a couple of issues. The first isn't so much an issue as it is something we had to do to accommodate the turbo, and that was install a drain port for the oil return. The second problem that came up was with clearance of the 4 bolt main block. The original block was only 2 bolt main, my new block has 4 bolt mains. Because of that, we needed to 'clearance' the oil pan to get it to fit onto the block.
It's all part of the process when you want to go fast.
Thanks to Justin Frische for his help in this video.
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Pay machine shop hourly rate --> get back dented up oil pan boogered up with teflon tape and silicone. I'd lose my mind.
I wouldnt take anything to that shop again. Any old timer would have had it done,and done right in no time. I wouldnt trust that set up at all.
This was just sad. I was working on something else and when I saw what was going on I asked WHY? The customer stated that this is how the directions said to do it and this is what he wanted to show his subscribers. I had a bung, a welder, a better way, but they forged ahead as you can see. So, I guess this video should be a lesson on "Sometimes you throw the directions away and go with common sense". An embarrassing moment for my shop to say the least and I didn't even watch the video as all I had to do is read the comments.
Ouch, I wonder what this shop deems acceptable when the owner/mechanic/videographer isn't in the room?
why is everyone blaming the machinist? how is he supposed to concentrate with a camera in his face and some guy cracking jokes?
No, just no.
Welding a bung on the pan could have caused it to warp slightly. Beating on the oil pan and caking it in silicone...Thats the kind of precision you pay the machine shop for...
Machine shop, Machine up a tapped boss and weld it in :(
There was a roadkill episode and this on my subscription feed. I chose this.
The pan is on the bench, you are at a machine shop- why would you not use a bung and be done with it? No, you are not doing it wrong, but; there is more than one way to skin a Pikachu.
Would it have been easier to just drill a hole then weld a nut or AN fitting to the pan instead?
Arggh damn that was some hackery to watch
I think that oil pan is fucked.
I think the recommended install by manufacturer was oil pan not removed, this got them off to the wrong start. Actually a safe method without drilling for shavings, but with pan off, there's better ways to do it. That's why we had the head shaking walk off.
I have to agree with WhitwellMike. A made or purchased bung should have been welded or brazed in place. The method given in those 'instructions' for the oil return is a down and dirty hack intended for a driveway install by an end-user with the pan in place. It's all too easy to punch too far and tear the sheet metal leaving you up the creek.
Thanks for the gag reel Eric. Hilarious that a bare sump, in your hand, would be hammered into oblivion, the hole size guesstimated, the tap held at roughly 90 degrees, so that you could hope to catch some of the punched in metal to secure an oil line. Can't wait to see the real, fabricated new sump.
Man, that tape job over the front timing area is straight winning!
All that beautiful precision work, and then a hammer.
How did painting the pan after silicone sealant work out? I think I would have painted the pan then put the brass fitting in.
Does anyone know if you would need to make 2 holes for the oil return line on a Twin Turbo setup? Or can you just get an adapter to run 2 hoses from 1 hole?