How To Mask & Paint an Engine Block
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 พ.ย. 2016
- Check out Kalvinator Engines: www.kalvinatorengines.com
After getting the Oil pan sorted out, here's that video: • Oil Pan Modifications ...
I wanted to finish masking and painting the block. Justin Frische and I show 2 different methods for this. One with a hammer, and one with a razor blade. I'd say a combination of both methods may be the best approach. As for the color, that's entirely up to you, although you may be influenced by other people in the room like I was. In my case, I was happy they did.
Thanks to Justin Frische for his help in this video.
Previous video in the series: • Cylinder Head Modifica...
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Camera: Brian Kast
Thanks for watching!
Discussion about this video: www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/...
The head gaskets I used: www.raceplumbing.net/SCE-Gaske...
Ford Blue Engine Paint: www.kimballmidwest.com/80905/
Black Engine Paint: www.kimballmidwest.com/80820/
Engine Details
Displacement: 363cid
The Block: www.pbm-erson.com/Catalog/PBM/...
The Crank: www.pbm-erson.com/Catalog/PBM/...
The Heads: performanceparts.ford.com/par...
Compression: 8.9:1
The Cam: Comp Cams custom grind: 222@.050" 222@.050 .357"lobe lift .571" valve lift (1.6 rocker) .351" lobe lift .562" valve lift (1.6 rocker) 114º separation 4ºadvance
Modified: Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
The Carburetor: www.holley.com/products/fuel_...
The Distributor: www.msdperformance.com/produc...
The Ignition: www.msdperformance.com/produc...
The turbo Kit: www.on3performance.com/shop/19...
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I just wanted to say how much I appreciate Eric, this channel, and the community that follows it. Everyone is so professional and mature, and we all are here to share the common passion for building and repairing automobiles. When you watch other car youtubers, especially the younger generation, them and their community is so negative. It's always refreshing to come watch a ETCG video and read the comments below. Stay dirty everyone!
When I use the hammer technique, which works amazing when you have a completely flat surface no tight areas like a couple spots on that engine block. I use a rubber mallet. It works just as good as a ball peen but you have zero chance of ruining the surface.
DaTwistedOne1 i drag a scraper along the surface
Ball Pein
copper would be the best
Makes a lot less noise, too.
I love his videos .. he’s a mechanic not a glorified part swapper that’s so common these days . A mechanic knows how to fix a auto no matter the model or where the part is broke . A mechanic can paint a block then move on to replacing a transfer case bearing .. these days it takes three four people to do that .. one guy to diagnose and write up .. on guy to prep block .. one guy to paint block .. and one guy to replace bearing ..
So close Eric! I've been following the Build since the start and this has been a very very informative and interesting series. Keep up the good work!
I used to go out but now as I'm getting older I stay home on a friday night and watch Eric and drink a cold one. Mmmm comfy.
I pretty much do the same thing. ;)
yep , same here , with a bowl of chips and a pint of IPA .
Hot pizza and a cold Canadian beer for me :) Great video Eric! Looks like you guys are having fun. Justin seems like a funny guy to be around.
😂 good times!
Eric, glad to see your channel is booming and growing! Been a fan for years and just wanted to say glad for you since you seem like a nice guy. Keep um coming!
Hey Eric, noticed you switching hands and fingers a lot while painting. In my own experience it is well worth the $2 it costs for a plastic trigger ( if the paint can accepts it)
Looks awesome. It's really cool I have in person photos of it in my phone lol seeing a final product and then watching how it came together is neat
I like the grease technique for the core plugs!
Interesting stuff as usual but what memories you unleashed. My dad showed me about 40 years ago how to make gaskets from thick brown paper with a hammer with various size ball bearings for any holes. An old trick that has survived.Regards from the UK.
I was so looking forward to seeing that ford blue .
you make it look all so easy, great job. and yes black is the right colour
Love this engine building series.
I work in the aircraft industry with very expensive parts, and our painters cut the excess tape off with a simple pairing knife or another small knife. You just run it along the edge of the item at a 45 degree angle almost the same action that you would use to sharpen a knife and it takes the excess tape of in seconds and gets into tight corners. No hammer, no gasket. Works really quickly and efficiently.
What if I like the cast iron look and just want to clear coat a bare block? What would be the process in that?
More Justin Frische in future videos please Mr Eric.
Thanks so much! I'm doing it now on my aluminum head but just using a really small spoon for better control. Otherwise, to primer or not to primer... What about just a second layer of paint? It's already got this rust prevention layer machine shop guy put on after sand blasting.
I’ve painted many engines! When I had an engine built by a machine shop he used some kinda engine paint that was the best paint ever! Years later it still looked mint gas and oil didn’t take it off. I forgot what brand it was but it wasn’t a brand I’ve ever seen before
I actually just painted my SBF this past Sunday. I did Ford blue and I primered too. I've had good experience with Duplicolor products.
Love me some Old Ford blue
Once i started using POR15 paints i never went back to the cheap engine paints. POR15 is some tough ass paint that lasts.
as for painting lifter valleys, Jaffromobile did a similar thing in a series on his channel where he coated his 4g63 head and block internally with a special coating called glyptal. worth a watch for sure.
Joe Buttsecks he also goes into a very indepth explenation of why its not for everyone and why he used it and how toxic that stuff is
Painting or coating the interior surfaces of an engine has it's benefits.
If prepped and coated properly there are no downsides.
Glyptal is not toxic with casual contact.
not toxic and casual contact it's still fucking toxic no matter how much you com into contact with it it's still toxic it's just not dangerous with casual contact
kyle hubner
Yes, not toxic to humans with casual contact.
That means it poses a minimal health hazard if used appropriately.
The ingredient in Glyptal that is a human health hazard is Xylene/Xylol.
Casual or incidental skin contact, using with adequate ventilation poses no human health hazard.
Ingestion would not be wise.
I have been regularly using Glyptal since 1972 with zero health related issues.
Glyptal is no different than Clorox, using with adequate ventilation, promptly washing hands after contact it poses no hazard, but drinking either is ill advised and could be fatal.
Clorox bleach is more toxic than Glyptal and Clorox is available at most US grocery stores. .
generally the benefits are lost as soon as ANY paint dislodges and clogs up the inner workings of the engine.cast metal isn't the best surface to encapsulate paint and have it bond well.raw steel is much safer in the long run
Great video. Painting the engine Black makes it impossible to spot where oil leaks originate.
+1 about the dawn. I have some with water in a spray bottle to clean my hands when I'm all dirty. Works well for cleaning parts too, as he mentioned.
might use my GI bill when I get out to start learning more about this stuff
Thank you for your service!
I got out and started working for a repair shop doing oil changes and cleaning up, in a couple months I was doing timing belts, motor jobs etc. I think I learned more and learned it faster from just being there than a class could teach . At this point it would be a waste for me to go to the local auto classes as they don't teach very in depth.
That being said they do give you a housing allowance for school so take advantage
thanks for making these videos, u have helped me so much.
Having 2 different metals(aluminum and copper) what about corrosion like Galvanic corrosion because you do have a presents of an electrolyte???
Nice carb choice Eric. My friend had one of those and it was a high quality unit. Plus, true v8 badasses run carbed engines. I always love seeing a carb turbo blow through setup!
Thank you! Me too. So many opposed to me running a carburetor. It's refreshing to find someone who 'gets it'.
I would only say carb because why go through the troubble of doing fuel injection... makes more work for yourself. Its not like your making a build for efficiency, lol.
I couldn't have said it better myself.
j see no issue with either setup. they are both perfectly capable of running the vehicle. i personally have a preference for efi but thats me. althought is there a reason the boost cap for the carb points the way it does? its a big consideration when doing intercooler piping to get the route as short as possible and the way it is doesnt make sense to me unless it only fit one wayin which case fair enough
EricTheCarGuy Absolutely Eric. I'm an import guy(Subaru to be exact) and even I appreciate a v8 with a Carb! When it comes to v8's nothing sounds better than a sweetly tuned carb and sweet cams.
Nice result :-D, you're right about the blue, it would have looked very wrong.
I have also made gaskets with a hammer, i've used a plastic one, no metal damage :-).
24:00 switching to the thumb.. i know that feel very well. one of those spray can triggers are so handy
if you use the round rod part of a screwdriver and rub it on the edge with the tape itll cut really easy without damage
Soap and water works but what about brake cleaner? Does that work to get the stuff off from the machine shop?
Hi Eric, Just wondering why there wasn't any high heat primer used. I always thought it was needed when painting parts that get hot. ?
What made your decision to get a iron block with aluminum heads? Weight reduction or cheaper? And will the aluminum heads take boost? And would you use aluminum heads on a nitrous build?
I like to paint my engines yellow. I figure at some point they'll leak oil and a yellow block should show the leak easier.
I had a nephew that did his ford in blue, and all the lines were in polished copper.. It looked amazing..
like always good to see you doing great work .just wondering don't you normally clean block with wax & grease remover and spray etch primer on bare metal?
anyways block & sump looks great hope it lasts all best
ask
my car is mazda6 2005
proplem is transmison chang 1 and to but i cant chang 3 or 4 i dont no wher is prople in i think speed senser ..help how can fix
did u put plain grease on the core plugs?
The hammer method. Very clever. I never would have thought of that. =)
does honda sell damper pinch bolt? just a bolt or am i gonna have to buy the whole damper fork...
Hey Eric, Do they do anything to that copper gasket to compensate for the problem of aluminum and copper reacting when in contact? My neighbour had an aluminium commercial fishing boat and they painted it with a coating that had copper in it. The hull was filled with tiny pinholes inside a year. Total write off.
Hi can you please do a head gasket replacement on a gsr please
i do aircraft masking on my work and i method i use is similar to Eric's but i used the back part of the rasor blade to avoid damage or cracks as they are aluminum
What are the benefits of painting a cast steel block?
I use a razor blade at a 45 degree angle and slide it across the edge with a sweeping motion at an angle as well as until it burns through the tape. I know it kinda scuffs the edge but the hammer can be just as iffy. The difference is it’s way faster and cleaner. I learned this method at a facility that restored and refurbished jet turbine parts prior to media blast and paint as well. And we all know those kind of parts are just as critical as automotive parts. Good enough for them, is good enough for me.
When combining the copper gasket and aluminum head, did you consider the possibility of Galvanic corrosion?
ur an idiot
this episode is really fun!!
Hey Eric. Love the channel, you're awesome. How many cans of spray paint was it?
Good job!! I am working at my Infiniti block, FX45, right now...., making it 5 litre, and about??? 450-500 horses...., anyway, couple important questions her: how did you clean the block..., before painting: pressure wash?, steamcleaned??, or what?? If I do it by hand, soapy water??? Let me know, and " stay dirty", thanks ! youtheman =)
Eric,
I came here for the purpose of learning to paint a block (as is reasonable) but I have another, unrelated question that you may be able to answer. Buddy of mine had an old LTD Country Squire, with a 5.0 that had the "dual sump" oil pan/pickup setup like it seems like you've got on this engine. The car was starved for oil, probably more due to lack of maintenance than an inherent flaw in the engine, but I was told that the dual sump 5.0s of the 80s as were on the LTD line were a nightmare because of this. Do you have any info on why that might be?
Thanks,
Ty
the paint they're referring to is glyptol, which is a paint used on generators. it's resistant to oil and water and can handle temperatures of 300 degrees fahrenheit for hours at a time while also insulating electricity. needs to be baked on the parts though, but if done properly, can keep an engine clean and easier to work on in some cases, because dirt and oil wipes away, and prevents the block from rusting inside if it sits. keeps oil in the pan.
Good choice, like the black
friendly advice: what i do instead of using a hammer is i take a good size socket, or extension or even a wrench, and just RUB it over the sharp edge, cuts it off every time. love the videos eric!
what if you have a ford 300 stock compression is 8.8:1. Would bumping it up to 9.5:1 be to much for boost
You're better off with lower compression and higher boost than you are with high compression and boost.
I know this is off topic, but Mr. Frische Sr. should narrate storybooks..tone of his voice reminds me of a professor I had in college that would lull me to sleep, but I would remember everything he lectured..passed the course with ease..Thanks for the taking me back!!..LOL
He sounds kind of like John Goodman.
It's midnight in Australia but I'm staying up to watch some ETCG!
same
triplets byt im working so no choice of bed /etcg
Gotta say, these guys at Kalvinator Engines know their shit.
Ok so no primer hmm that won’t hold long I did my 340 in Hemi Orange and just test running It flaked as soon as it overheated a bit
Quick question... I have a chevy 350 block from an abandoned build in my teen years. i sent it out to a machine shop to get it refreshed, and painted it up very nice. It's still in perfect shape and I kept it coated in oil all these years, but it has developed a super light surface rust on the cylinders. Would it be safe to hit it with a quick drill hone just to polish it up? Or should I send it back to a shop.
Cool thanks. I even get the feeling I can just wipe it off with some WD-40 and a rag lol. If that doesn't do the trick I'll give it a quick hone. I was just nervous to try it since the first time I used a hone I got the cylinder WAY out of round.. but it was just a lawnmower so no biggie :P
If its really light surface do it yourself for sure. I usually soak the balls in diesel or kerosene if you have it
hey Eric, you can paint the plugs into a block and remove them without cracking the paint. All you have to do is carefully score the paint with a razor blade around the bottom edge of the plug where it hits the surface and when you loosen it, it will not crack the paint. or an even simpler way just screw them all the way in then back them out a half turn. This will leave enough space between the drain plug and the surface to keep the paint from forming a solid surface across both parts. and it's still close enough to the surface to not allow much paint between the parts. just to ideas for future projects.
I use a fine tooth metal file to get a clean masking edge on the block. Just go at the tape edge holding at a 45 degree angle and don't push that hard. File down away from tape and it will give you nice results. Also you can use triangle files and round files for tight areas.
That's the way I do it
you can also use a scraper /screwdriver /dull knife and apply pressure instead of the hammer trick
loving the work a few things i would do differently but hey if it works it works. and i appreciate the free entertainment and showing a different way of doing things. also goo choice on the black engine best color for an engine. doesnt matter what color it came from factory they all go black eventually
Thanks very much for your comment and your input.
looks fantastic mate one tip use a fine file to cut the tape gently rub it downwards it works a treat. cant wait for the next video
Pros and Cons on painting brass core plugs ?
Hi Eric, like your method with the hammer tapping to cut the tape. I was wondering if rubbing these edges with the side of a screwdriver would also work. Perhaps that would be an alternative for softer metals or for spaces you can't reach with a hammer. Keep up the good work! Greetings from the Netherlands!
Yes, that could also work.
The first time 🎉😢😢😢😢gg
Everyone has awesome hair styles. I'd fit right in.
you published this 2 days after i painted my ford flathead haha i used a welding rod instead of a hammer.
It's pretty cool knowing all of this happened less than 45 minutes away from where I live. Makes it feel more like I was there. Lol
Hey Eric, I just bought a 1977 Ford LTD Landau. Ford 400 in it. What are your thoughts? Drives and runs like a dream.
Keep driving it.
Less horsepower than a modern four banger Camry, but a hell of a lot more stylish. ;D
if it aint broke dont fix it
I mean, like anything to look out for with that year of fords? Beautiful car.
Here are some pictures fo savior if you like:
postimg.org/image/r8gjizbtx/
postimg.org/image/cqjcazkit/
hey eric, can you help me out, my 1994 lexus es300 has a brake light that stays on even after adding brake fluid, any recommendations on how to turn it off?
cesar nunez check you pads and pad sensors. yes there are actual one time use sensor in the brake pads
cesar nunez obd1 just seems to be a never ending problem for me lol.
94 lexus wont have pad sensors... check to make sure the float in the master cylinder reservoir isnt stuck first thats common in all cars
Check your parking brake, make sure it's all the way off.
Are freeze plugs and core plugs different? If so, explain?
th-cam.com/video/IOpm6WpVavk/w-d-xo.html
Hey Eric:Got a 87' fox gt with aod,the damn starter keeps backing out,went through 4,someone said to get a high torque starter,Another said to check or replace the flex plate.any info in greatly appreciated,Thanks dude
Tighten the bolts. Ive never had one back out before unless the bolts were loose.
As far as the high torque starter, just about an 92 or newer ford has one, hit the junkyard. They usually leave the starter when they pull motors. Fine one that has the correct offset, it will be either 3/8" or 3/4" offset.
The stock starter wire hole will need to be enlarged slightly. The new starter needs an additional wire run to the trigger side of the stock solenoid and the thick cable will always be hot. New starter is smaller and has way more power.
Thanks for the 92 info,the bolts had red loctite and they were past torque specs.
Maybe a dumb question. But, if the block would want to rust, is there some kind of rust inhibitor in the paint? Or is this just for the looks? I know that cast iron doesn't rust like other but still.. Will this rust or not?
Oh, you just said it in the end. Just forget the question :)
We used to use black Gyptal to paint lifter valleys. I think you can still get this stuff from Eastwood.
The guys at Hagerty recommend using Dawn dish soap for washing and cleaning the block. Just like their Redline Rebuild time lapse videos. Pretty interesting stuff.
Are you going to use an electronic boost controller? My Abarth runs 25psi from 3-4.5k then tapers off as it approaches redline. AFRs also go to around 11 at 5-5.5k to quench the head and reduce the chance of a lean condition when hitting fuel cut.
If you search "Abarth boost curve" there's an article on FiatTech by Greg at Eurocompulsion that explains modern turbo tuning really well.
Yes. I have one from MSD for the ignition. So far I'm just going to run the waste gate that came with the kit. The max output on the dyno was less than 8psi so I think I'll be fine for now.
yep brass core plugs unpainted looks nice against the black in my opinion
You just love hearing you talk
Use 1 of those hammers with rubber on one side and hard plastic on the other side, if you must, no chance of rolling the edge and a LOT quieter. I prefer to use a small round file, it removes any sharp edges while you cut the tape. 'You can have any color you want as long as it's black.' Where have I heard that before? It's a proven fact that black engines cool off faster, but for a t-bucket or open view engine, I'd definitely go with a monochrome paint scheme, including the freeze plugs.
I do watch you !!! and from argentina !!!
Hey Eric, I'm looking to update my tool box. I have been trying to find the best tool kit for under 500 bucks. After breaking two craftsman ratchets in one day I'm not looking at their brand. So far I've found a set of Gearwrench set 143 Pc. for $443. Any recommended brands?
Gearwrench is nice...comes out of the same factory as Carlisle and Snap-on...different stamping...Pre-china Kobalt is good too...it IS Snap-on...even the Chinese Kobalt stuff is better than craftsman
I know Edd China is a hero of yours, is this secretly a reference to his obsession with Satin Black Paint :)
petroleum jelly works good on spots you don't wanna paint.
New to your channel and you probably already know but if you don't, I think the coating that you were thinking about was Glyptal Red brush on paint. Also I don't see why you needed to use a hammer or a blade. If you used long needle files to lightly run over the tape on the corners to get nice clean edges. Other than that, I enjoy your channel and how to's.
Is that a homemade oil pan? Its girthy
i think that's a very exciting part of an engine rebuild. and in my shop I paint them all black... just because...
I bleed Ford Blue, but really like the black for the Ford block. Perfect choice.
Wonder what would happen if you ceramic thermal coated an engine block 🤔
no primer?
I know Justin does this all the time, but I honestly have a suggestion: If he used one of those surgical knife looking X-Acto blades he'd have a lot easier time cutting that tape.
I learned this personally the hard way... I live in Florida and put some reflective coating on the windows that face the sun in my house, a couple of the windows I tried just using a blade like he did... super easy to tear the film and it wasn't giving me an easy time. Decided to change to one of those X-Acto blades (a fresh one) and it cut through the film way way easier. Of course I also have razor blades I got from Harbor Freight, 100 of them were like $3.99, so maybe if you get nicer ones they cut better... but in general I find that flat razor blades like he was using don't cut as nice as an X-Acto blade.
I'm sure he'll keep using the razor blade, if he's fine with it that's cool. I just know personally after the 4th small tear in something I'm trying to do perfectly I go off the wall and need to stop for a beer lol.
My engine block was painted black. Too hard to see coolant/oil leaks!
I would vote for grey or even white. Maybe light blue.
Same color as the body? Puke yellow?
My fave is a dark red - looks awesome with aluminium, chrome or brass accents, and leaks are still reasonably visible.
UV dye helps with that. If you see a leak, figure out what fluid it is and put some dye in the offending system. Clean the area and drive it for a week or two, then a UV flashlight and some glasses will show you exactly where the leak originated.
I did that,but it's easier to see any fluid leaks if the block was not black.
I found an oil leak without using UV dye,but I would have seen it much earlier,without the UV dye, if it was not black painted. Thanks.
I have all of the equipment to diagnose an oil or coolant leak.
Last week,I just found one,without the dye.
black looks good,paint it black.
put the engine together with new gaskets and torque them properly.
what brand of paint die you use
Linked in the description.
That engine has come out looking amazing and good choice on the black..... that pikachu looks like it might be fully assembled any word on a new Dyno run or track video coming soon?
There will be a video of the day I took it to the dyno when the engine series concludes. I'm still working on the car and the track is closed for the year. Earliest I could do a run would be next spring.
That sounds awesome I can tell you put a lot of love and effort into your project, and thanks for sharing that with us car guys! can't wait to see the next video keep up the great work!!!
Here is a trick i use on my SBC's or any block that uses 1 5/8" freeze plugs. I have never seen anyone else do this.
If you don't want to paint them pretty brass freeze plugs. I cut a golf ball in half, and it will fit perfectly on top of the freeze plug. Then just spray right over them as you paint the block. If you want, you can screw a screw or bolt into them for a handle. If you have different size plugs, just find something else the right size. Reusable!😅
I feel like the hammer does a good job but idk, Ill cringe while doin it. Recently bought a 305 but turns out it's actually a L81 350 from a Corvette!! Thinking about going metallic silver with chrome valve covers or Chevy engine red with the chrome covers
Wouldn't it be more difficult to find a leak in an all black engine? Just saying.
Actually with UV dye it would be a lot easier to find on a black engine.
I use a round screw driver and drag it across the edge to cut the tape that way you don't hit it with a hammer, just like they do when they apply grip tape to skate boards
Can someone explain why he would want to lower compression just because its boosted? I don't quite understand
Isn't higher compression and more boost a better thing, because that equates to more power?
because your adding boost(more compression) to an engine that already has high compression which will cause a lot of stress. Low compression engine is always recommended if you want a reliable build.
So basically you're just putting extra strain on the engine, and if you wanted to run higher compression and higher boost you would just have to reinforce the engine?
yes, that is why like 2000-3000hp engine need rebuilds every few runs, you just cant find any material that are strong enough to hold reliably under all that compression and load.
Gotcha, thank you!
Eastwood makes an Internal paint for lifter\cam valley. Good up to 650 degrees.. Most people paint their engines with the stuff...