Hi chris I was taught this proper method around Leeds in the 1970s im still doing it today the same way lines on profiles a big square level datum pegs .no one can set out anymore or know how to get foundation brickwork level at d.p.c. and set out the correct bond.been in london 38 years doing what I learnt from people like you I built £4 million +houses here no proper bricklayers around anymore in 64 never ever out of work.keep passing it on best wishes.
I think your very brave putting your work out there for all to criticise. As a builder my self all I can say is we all do things differently keep grafting lads
Whenever I watch a Bricklaying type if video there seems to be so many experts and whatever anyone in the video is doing the people watching always criticise. I personally don't think they are out and out bricklayer with the general techniques a time served bricklayer would use but the things he's is doing are ok....the cross joints are nice and full and it's laid to the line ok so I don't see a problem.
Thanks for taking the time to put this video up Chris. Very helpful for someone starting out like myself. Shame the know it all internet trolls have taken over the comments section.
Great build video. Thanks for sharing. Whilst the footing could be a little narrower I would have done the same as it's more practical and gives additional comfort.
Thanks for taking the time to put this video on and explain things Chris. It's unfortunate all these 'experts' feel the need to critique in the comments. None of them post videos despite knowing it all! There's a lack of good explanational building videos on here.
Paul Merifield Hi, thsnks for your positive imput. Yes you're right, you'll find the same people commenting negatively on other posts I find it amusing, I could delete them but it gives people something to read- Its the real world too
That’s a hell of a run on the concrete. Block flat to block on edge with brick course. And I’ve never seen a brickie hold a trowel like that when jointing a block
Another great video, thanks for offering an insight to your jobs. My nephew is about to start his last year of high-school without an idea of what he wants to do going forward. He's now got interested in construction work after watching some of your local videos (hamil road) with me, hopefully you've set him on track. Really appreciated it.
Yea the most awkward looking way of buttering a block I've ever seen useing a level to screed a foundation i see no pegs no 4x2 timber cut to tamper down the concrete but saying that if your way gets the job done the right way at the right speed your makeing a good wage who am i or any1 else to tell u what to do when it works for u
Glad you have gone deep. In Spain , they go deeper and soil is better, and I should say over there the prices are real for a good brand new home. Anyway good job . Thank you for caring for these poor people.
I do my foundations with a laser level. Best purchase I’ve ever bought; no pegging. Just mark on the wall where you want the top of the foundation to be, then set it up and pour. Make up a long tamping bar with an upstand on each end so you and your mate can tamp together, checking the level with the laser as you go round, perfect every time. You can use it to set up your corners for brickwork, the correct height of your floor slab sections as well etc. Personally, I fill up the foundation with concrete 600mm wide, I’m about two blocks down, much easier to work in and quicker to get the job done 👍🏻
cxsimpso minimum thickness of concrete for a foundation is usually 250mm thick. If you have a 1m or 1.5m trench depth (depending on building control approval) some people will put the minimum amount of concrete in and build there block from that depth. I personally like to fill up the trench with concrete, so I’m 450mm below dpc height, as it’s much easier to walk around the concrete to lay blocks as you’re higher up. I usually lay trench blocks (7 or 10nm blocks) for the first course then 3 courses of your face brick to dpc height, this will ensure you will only see the nice brickwork against your ground level outside; this would be for the outer skin. The inner skin would just be two courses of trench blocks.
Slashley gibbins Many thanks for the detailed reply. I am an engineer and keen DIYer and want to self build an extension, well I hope to do as much as I can anyway, so nosing about on TH-cam.. trench fill seems to match the spec we have, seeing cutting trench blocks on an uneven footing took me by surprise!
Slashley gibbins Sorry, one more qu.. when you say only the two blocks courses on the inside skin is that to take you to up to level for laying a beam and block floor? Does inner skin dpc normally go in lower than outer skin's please, as my spec seems to show this..? Thank you.
Tongue and groove trench block does not need the perps mortaring up. The whole purpose of the design is to save this and speed the job up. Should of pegged out your footing for concrete levels. Each to their own i suppose. Also set your ground mark to the outside of the footing and use a 600mm bucket.
Never known so much arrogance in this trade, everyone seems to think they know it better than you!! I think this job is excellent, first of all it explains in stages, its a real situation not made up for viewers..it shows difficulties and how to get over them. My generation didn't have computers etc and we knew how to use maths to work and solve problems. You may be without a calculator, computer or even a "laser level" then you need the skills shown here. Heads up Chris, well done matey.
dont need computers,put up corner profiles up first. keep well back from.trench to be dug.put down string lines to the correct size of building,then measure from corner to corner to get correct square of the building.these guys are cowboys.
happytravelguy I agree totally.. Everyone's an expert!! Ok there's a few pick up points there but it is definitely educational to someone who is keen to learn. Good Job A+
Eire Mac Aodhagain learn from someone that knows how detrimental straight joints are in corners then. These guys don’t even know how to bond blockwork. But if you insist they are so good then hire them. Watch all your hard earned money disappear into the ground with a 1m wide strip footing. I have been building many years and never seen an architect specify such as substantial footing for such a small job. Keep your head in the sand, it helps financial loss go unnoticed
Little tip. 3.48 is the perfect time to chuck in any asbestos you have from this or indeed any other job you have going on. Never seen that done ever. Not once. Hand on my heart that's the truth. Bloke down the pub told me he once saw someone do it on a job, YEARS ago!
I've seen it done with the asbestos laid in the floor of the trench prior to the concrete pour. Site foreman called and told to remove it by the owner.
I was laying these type of blocks which were white sandstone type or like constituted stone back in the 90’s in East Germany in the Keller’s which is the basement where you could earn loads of money above Basement height the block work was shizen less money , when you put these blocks together make sure there are no gaps god I made a fortune in East Germany just building the basements and the blocks were heavier than those thermalites
Everyone is a critic, but when you hire them they very rarely live up to their own hype - apart from a handful, most are cowboys! Good on the guys for doing this video!!!
seems a lot of fuss, I just flattened the soil and built on it. after 30 years, the extension is still good. but the rest of the house, fell in a hole.
does the dpc of the new extension have to be at the same level as the house DPC ,i,m looking to build a small extension and if i put the dpc at same level as the house dpc it would be level with my height of my garden ,,cheers
From my engineering point of view, reinforced concrete foundation are preferable than the filled trench for many reasons. As chartered architect I strongly suggest to have a consultation with an architect or structural engineer before casting foundation and avoid as soon you can the DYI
Reinforced is totally over engineered in this type of build and would add unnecessary cost and time to a project. Most domestic build are not reinforced foundations
@@martinclark6312 foundation beam works as an inverted beam on the terrain, with negative bending moment in the middle, if you do not put any reinforcement it does brake in the middle where concrete is streched especially for thin elements as that foundation beam. If build req does not require it does mean that is not necessary. There are billion of things that build reg omitts but are structurally important even for little extension. And thanks god uk is not seismic country otherwise, 99% of the building were structurally fragile.
This video is case in point why people need Geotechnical Engineering reports even for small extensions!!! The construction boys don’t know if there’s a gas risk and if so the extension would require protection incorporating in the floor slab, they probably used generic concrete and haven’t taken into account the sulphate and acidity of the soil into their purchase. The reason they had to batter the sides is due to loose granular soil collapsing. All of this would be known had they had the property due diligence carried out.
@@foundationgood123 , it's the same all over TH-cam. Wankerish comments from all these do-nothing know-it-alls. I guarantee that extension is still standing, is loved by the owners, and will remain standing for the next 100 years.
Thank you for the video. I like how you connected the new footer with the existing footer. I think I would use a 3 axis laser to make things quicker, easier and more accurate. I assume your building code does not require any expansion connectors or rebar on the footer to footer connection.
The only thing I've noticed is that in the Celcon trench blocks manufacturers instructions, you butt the blocks tight up to one another, no mortar in the perps. Apparently for vermin control. I read that about 5 years ago and that's how I now lay trench blocks.
@@kevocos I’m not quite sure I understand your question but: If you’re still in the layout stage, like they were, it’s very simple to adjust the line on the batter board, so that when you begin to lay your fnd block, you know that you’re getting started off on the right foot. It’s just a matter of moving the line one way or the other until you’re exactly square. THEN follow the line for your block. 🤜🤛
At the start he says his footings are going to be 900 deeper than top of existing house footings and that his scalps for ground bearing concrete floor are going to be 600 deep..... look, its a tough old game the building game. But the problem with inexperienced builders like this is they often get themselves into trouble even though they have the best of intentions. Normally they under quote to get the job in the first place and then end up piling on the extras. I wish these guys the best of luck, and i know in the building trade every fucker thinks he's an expert. I would add however if your going to get into doing extensions or loft conversions for people, work for a decent firm first and get the experience you need. Its not rocket science but there is a hell of allot of information you need to learn first.
Some guys not really know what they do. The foundation would be steady enough to carry a skyscraper. The setting out, wrongly made, with the line hanging on the wall, instead of set it offset. No, it is not good enough. Pouring the concrete onto the old foundation is a fault, it has to be separated, so that it could settle freely. Leveling like in the 19th century. Are that air cinder blocks you are laying into the dirt? And no horizontal sealing in the brickwork. I don´t want to see part two, because there has been so much failures in part one, I am amazed enough.
@@mateuszzarzyczny5802 Is that what you believe, most houses in the UK develop cracks; further more they could be avoided easily but are not? With respect that makes no sense.
@@TurinTuramber why not make sense ? Rebarb in foundation reinforce foundation. I seen on new houses in uk lot of cracks because its no rebarb .But that required some more skills .Unfortunetly british building standars its a bit out of date compare to others modern countrys .
@@mateuszzarzyczny5802 There are many foundation techniques for different ground conditions. Mass filled strip foundations do not require rebar that's just the end of it. Perhaps you should write to the institute of chartered structural engineers and tell them that they know nothing and how all the houses in UK are cracking apart.
One will always need rebar , since there is only minimal pull strength in concrete, the other thing is one needs to isolate the extension from the building and use compression material to make sure the concrete does not bind the the building , really essential.Otherwise you're asking for problems, like cracks, ruining the existing foundation of the house.Typical mistakes being made everyday by contractors are nicely documented here
Great video 👍 question- how deep do you make your footer? Is there a general rule for footers - like 5 ft wall , use 5 inch footer, or 10 ft wall, use 10 inch footer.
It's fine to determine the measurements off the rear walls ,but diagonals should always be incorporated into setting out . There's nothing to suggest the exsisting build is square , As for levels ,A laser would safe you so much work ,from soil levels to concrete ,footing courses ,and even your block work ,and leveling wall plates etc Money well spent .We all build differently, Would like to see reinforcement in foundation ,whether inspector requires it or not ,it's very good practice ,12 mm reinforcement mesh ,and you never worry about your concrete ,just a professional observation ,keep up the good work.
I was thinking the same thing about a laser. All those bricks and blocks just haphazardly stacked up there is kinda sketchy. And using a level for a concrete float? C’mon guys. Get into the ‘90s! 🤜🤛
If it works for Chris and his crew its fine by me 👍I often revert to a water level, absolutely fool proof and can work around corners and behind obstructions, unlike lasers. The only thing I'd want to check is that the 6th course below dpc is truly level ( it most likely is) given that they are happy for work below ground to be cut to fit etc. Can always shutter around drains and step the concrete to correct level and then lintel over.
Just for reference the trench blocks are interlocking so no need to butter/perp them up. Interlock them and fill hole left at top with compo. Saves time
Yes I saw that...I'm not a builder. I am an engineer. 250mm of concrete without rebar? then load it with blocks. I wonder how long was given for the concrete to aquire tensile strength just asking !!!
@@georgestyer2153 Yes your not a builder , no steel required them footings are going no where , and most brickys will lay on them the day after it soon cures with all the additives in ready mix ..
@@anthonymclean9743 Thanks for your reply....as an engineer I am always guided by the man on the ground....numbers are great but practice rules ..thanks for the reply..
Wish you guys had done my concrete slab and summer house. Turns out an oversized slab lets water in, might have also been better on a timber frame... But then I took advice from wrong people :(
Hire or buy a laser level mate you can set lengths of re bar in your foundation with it then pour your concrete to that then just tamp it your way is abit long winded and less accurate. You can set your foundation corners up with it aswell and your oversite dig out and makeup. Set out put your lines up on profiles to brickwork nail then measure 150mm outside put another nail in and spray up that for dig line!!! That way your not doing set out twice you will have a dig reference and brickwork nail from the off. And as for jointing foundation blocks?? Yes maybe internal blockwork but not underground just flush the joints off....you know your stuff but theres faster more accurate ways to build bud 👍
C Jackson I hear ya. Have dig line on outside and a 600mm bucket on so that way at least u can c the line. Once u take first scrape the lines gone. These guys are beginners at best
Awesome skills. I need to do a side return extension, but it's so expensive (London). I came here to see if I could do it myself.......................................er................no.
You should have continued your footer to above grade so the water will not be able to flood thru the foundation.... I would have brought it 12" above grade then started laying brickwork on top of the above ground foundation... looks good though...
Chris, could you tell me what those huge blocks are made of? Just asking because over here in Germany we have blocns that look similar to them, but only weigh like 6 kilograms
Willi Schneider I think they're the same as yours. The ones I'm using are a light concrete or "aerated concrete" They are light weight and have exceptional resistance to freeze/thaw conditions and sulfate attack when they occur below ground level!!
Chris Longhurst Our ones are mostly used for outside walls because they serve as a thermal insulation. If you're interested, look for "Porenbeton" on YT or Google :)
In the UK we use them on the inner skin for the same reason-The foundation blocks are a higher density than the 100mm used in the super structure. Thanks for your interest and good conversation...(I will have a look)-:)
Impressive chris, I’m an electrician and I tiled my kitchen off the back of one of your tutorials. It annoys me when you get clowns on here knocking what is quite obviously a very good job 👍🏻
Hi Dave . I'm amazed stu compton didnt block your latest comment which I gave you a thumbs up for . Some of these guys putting up videos act like children when questioned on there methods calling the questioners haters and sad and so on . Did you see his latest videos regarding cowboy builders ?
Dave Badger . Dave I saw the comment that you left on Stu cromptons im back bricklaying video the other day.. it promptly disappeared you must be banned for good now .
@@brickbybric Yep mate I've been banned for about 2 or 3 years now. I fit into the "hater" profile he bangs on about. Thing is I only ever post constructive criticism comments on his channel. I'm never personal or insulting.
When you read the manufacturers instructions on foundation blocks, it tells you to butt them up to one another below DPC with no mortar perps. This prevents the passage of vermin.
justy crusty Don't shoot the messenger, download Celcons PDF literature and read it. Telephone Celcon and tell them they're wrong, they don't know their own product. I've only seen one other bricklayer follow manufacturers instructions.
You must have used Standard RCC method for this By Providing 4 columns up to the required wall height and beams at lower level for transfering the load of wall. this is more cost efficient as it require digging of pit only where columns will be placed, requires less concrete ,has more strength,&less time consuming.
Chris Longhurst I think your a magnificent builder Chris , but I can only judge you on TH-cam ! So if you come and build me a conservatory base for free then I will be able to judge your work with my own eyes!😁
Hi chris I was taught this proper method around Leeds in the 1970s im still doing it today the same way lines on profiles a big square level datum pegs .no one can set out anymore or know how to get foundation brickwork level at d.p.c. and set out the correct bond.been in london 38 years doing what I learnt from people like you I built £4 million +houses here no proper bricklayers around anymore in 64 never ever out of work.keep passing it on best wishes.
Lee Marley Awesome, thanks- Me too, taught by guys from the 1940-60s great times...😀👍
@@foundationgood123 good steady job
Thank you👍
Very helpful video Chris. Thanks for taking the time to put it together and post it on TH-cam.
Thanks for your comment-:)
I think your very brave putting your work out there for all to criticise. As a builder my self all I can say is we all do things differently keep grafting lads
All different?
Fantastic video. Really informative. Well done Chris been watching your vids for a while now. Thank you
Thanks for the good comment-:)
You guys are worth every penny and more Chris
Whenever I watch a Bricklaying type if video there seems to be so many experts and whatever anyone in the video is doing the people watching always criticise. I personally don't think they are out and out bricklayer with the general techniques a time served bricklayer would use but the things he's is doing are ok....the cross joints are nice and full and it's laid to the line ok so I don't see a problem.
Thanks for taking the time to put this video up Chris. Very helpful for someone starting out like myself. Shame the know it all internet trolls have taken over the comments section.
Keep these videos going !! the young people today should be wanting to be builders like you guys, great stuff
peter friel Aww a positive comment, thanks👍
Great build video. Thanks for sharing. Whilst the footing could be a little narrower I would have done the same as it's more practical and gives additional comfort.
Thanks for taking the time to put this video on and explain things Chris. It's unfortunate all these 'experts' feel the need to critique in the comments. None of them post videos despite knowing it all! There's a lack of good explanational building videos on here.
Paul Merifield Hi, thsnks for your positive imput. Yes you're right, you'll find the same people commenting negatively on other posts I find it amusing, I could delete them but it gives people something to read- Its the real world too
Nice one Chris thanks for sharing. Look forward to the next of these videos.
Cheers Zed Man-:)
That’s a hell of a run on the concrete. Block flat to block on edge with brick course. And I’ve never seen a brickie hold a trowel like that when jointing a block
Some fantastic tips here. I will be watching this video again before I attempt my own workshop build.
OMG! Thats got to be the biggest footing ever for such a small addition.
A WORK OF Art ,LOVE TO SEE THIS GOING UP !!!
Highly recommend using steel rebars in your foundation slab.
That would make sense.
looks like a solid start to a good looking extension!
Another great video, thanks for offering an insight to your jobs.
My nephew is about to start his last year of high-school without an idea of what he wants to do going forward.
He's now got interested in construction work after watching some of your local videos (hamil road) with me, hopefully you've set him on track. Really appreciated it.
Great work...way above my head but building is certainly no easy trade. Great skill in it.
the way he butters up them blocks agrovates me big time
Your spelling ‘’ aggravates”me! Lol
Ya, he's clearly not well practiced with that trowel
Yea the most awkward looking way of buttering a block I've ever seen useing a level to screed a foundation i see no pegs no 4x2 timber cut to tamper down the concrete but saying that if your way gets the job done the right way at the right speed your makeing a good wage who am i or any1 else to tell u what to do when it works for u
Plus they are tongue and groove blocks and you aren't supposed to butter them they are interlocking! Only the corner blocks need a perp! 🙈
Glad you have gone deep.
In Spain , they go deeper and soil is better, and I should say over there the prices are real for a good brand new home.
Anyway good job . Thank you for caring for these poor people.
they dont have any where near the buidling regs we have over here, in spain you can build what you want hahah
I do my foundations with a laser level. Best purchase I’ve ever bought; no pegging. Just mark on the wall where you want the top of the foundation to be, then set it up and pour. Make up a long tamping bar with an upstand on each end so you and your mate can tamp together, checking the level with the laser as you go round, perfect every time. You can use it to set up your corners for brickwork, the correct height of your floor slab sections as well etc. Personally, I fill up the foundation with concrete 600mm wide, I’m about two blocks down, much easier to work in and quicker to get the job done 👍🏻
Could you explain the trench fill height bit again please? Do you mean you bring concrete up higher rather than use trench blocks?
cxsimpso minimum thickness of concrete for a foundation is usually 250mm thick. If you have a 1m or 1.5m trench depth (depending on building control approval) some people will put the minimum amount of concrete in and build there block from that depth. I personally like to fill up the trench with concrete, so I’m 450mm below dpc height, as it’s much easier to walk around the concrete to lay blocks as you’re higher up. I usually lay trench blocks (7 or 10nm blocks) for the first course then 3 courses of your face brick to dpc height, this will ensure you will only see the nice brickwork against your ground level outside; this would be for the outer skin. The inner skin would just be two courses of trench blocks.
Slashley gibbins Many thanks for the detailed reply. I am an engineer and keen DIYer and want to self build an extension, well I hope to do as much as I can anyway, so nosing about on TH-cam.. trench fill seems to match the spec we have, seeing cutting trench blocks on an uneven footing took me by surprise!
cxsimpso been there, done that. It’s dead easy to screw up the height of your footing.
Slashley gibbins Sorry, one more qu.. when you say only the two blocks courses on the inside skin is that to take you to up to level for laying a beam and block floor? Does inner skin dpc normally go in lower than outer skin's please, as my spec seems to show this..? Thank you.
Great video and great skills and tips 😊👍👍
Tongue and groove trench block does not need the perps mortaring up. The whole purpose of the design is to save this and speed the job up. Should of pegged out your footing for concrete levels.
Each to their own i suppose.
Also set your ground mark to the outside of the footing and use a 600mm bucket.
I can tell you one thing ... that guy is NOT a bricklayer!
Lol.
Brick layers and concrete guys are the most cocky of all trades!
Looks like it's going to be a good size build ,love it Cheers for the video Lads
Never known so much arrogance in this trade, everyone seems to think they know it better than you!! I think this job is excellent, first of all it explains in stages, its a real situation not made up for viewers..it shows difficulties and how to get over them. My generation didn't have computers etc and we knew how to use maths to work and solve problems. You may be without a calculator, computer or even a "laser level" then you need the skills shown here. Heads up Chris, well done matey.
dont need computers,put up corner profiles up first. keep well back from.trench to be dug.put down string lines to the correct size of building,then measure from corner to corner to get correct square of the building.these guys are cowboys.
happytravelguy
I agree totally.. Everyone's an expert!! Ok there's a few pick up points there but it is definitely educational to someone who is keen to learn. Good Job A+
Eire Mac Aodhagain learn from someone that knows how detrimental straight joints are in corners then. These guys don’t even know how to bond blockwork. But if you insist they are so good then hire them. Watch all your hard earned money disappear into the ground with a 1m wide strip footing. I have been building many years and never seen an architect specify such as substantial footing for such a small job. Keep your head in the sand, it helps financial loss go unnoticed
@@gazmgow622 Right. That footing was way overkill (£!). You could put a 6 story bldg on that thing (if it had some rebar)
🤜🤛
Great video 👍🏾 as an architect I rarely get to see a full build from start to finish, thanks for sharing
Little tip. 3.48 is the perfect time to chuck in any asbestos you have from this or indeed any other job you have going on. Never seen that done ever. Not once. Hand on my heart that's the truth. Bloke down the pub told me he once saw someone do it on a job, YEARS ago!
I've seen it done with the asbestos laid in the floor of the trench prior to the concrete pour. Site foreman called and told to remove it by the owner.
I was laying these type of blocks which were white sandstone type or like constituted stone back in the 90’s in East Germany in the Keller’s which is the basement where you could earn loads of money above Basement height the block work was shizen less money , when you put these blocks together make sure there are no gaps god I made a fortune in East Germany just building the basements and the blocks were heavier than those thermalites
Everyone is a critic, but when you hire them they very rarely live up to their own hype - apart from a handful, most are cowboys! Good on the guys for doing this video!!!
Good job lads,,think people can trust these guys
Thanks Chris, greetings from the Emerald Isle of Ireland,
Top of the Morning to ya Sir!
Holy crap ! That foundation will support a castle instead of "small extension" !!!
A castle made out of a deck of cards !
Allbbrz it won’t support shyt if they didn’t put any steel or rebar
@@sergiocastillo8844 Foundation don't need rebar! Concrete strong in compression. Yes if going double story then many chap
Peter Barraclough bro u bout dumb asf every foundation needs rebar , it’s eventually gone crack and sickness at least 2inches down
seems a lot of fuss, I just flattened the soil and built on it. after 30 years, the extension is still good. but the rest of the house, fell in a hole.
does the dpc of the new extension have to be at the same level as the
house DPC ,i,m looking to build a small extension and if i put the dpc
at same level as the house dpc it would be level with my height of my
garden ,,cheers
From my engineering point of view, reinforced concrete foundation are preferable than the filled trench for many reasons. As chartered architect I strongly suggest to have a consultation with an architect or structural engineer before casting foundation and avoid as soon you can the DYI
Not on our plans spec mate, not needed if it was necessary building control would have insisted it go in before the concrete was poured
Reinforced is totally over engineered in this type of build and would add unnecessary cost and time to a project. Most domestic build are not reinforced foundations
@@martinclark6312 foundation beam works as an inverted beam on the terrain, with negative bending moment in the middle, if you do not put any reinforcement it does brake in the middle where concrete is streched especially for thin elements as that foundation beam.
If build req does not require it does mean that is not necessary. There are billion of things that build reg omitts but are structurally important even for little extension. And thanks god uk is not seismic country otherwise, 99% of the building were structurally fragile.
This video is case in point why people need Geotechnical Engineering reports even for small extensions!!! The construction boys don’t know if there’s a gas risk and if so the extension would require protection incorporating in the floor slab, they probably used generic concrete and haven’t taken into account the sulphate and acidity of the soil into their purchase. The reason they had to batter the sides is due to loose granular soil collapsing. All of this would be known had they had the property due diligence carried out.
great video really helpful for our self build project
Never seen anything like it,would Iove to see the state of the brickwork 😂😂😂😂
cant believe what you are doing... seems like youbdo this for the first time!
G. M. Wheres your vid so we can see HOW GOOD you are, or are you an arm chair critic, know how its supposed to be done but never done anything lol
@@foundationgood123 , it's the same all over TH-cam. Wankerish comments from all these do-nothing know-it-alls. I guarantee that extension is still standing, is loved by the owners, and will remain standing for the next 100 years.
Thank you for the video. I like how you connected the new footer with the existing footer. I think I would use a 3 axis laser to make things quicker, easier and more accurate.
I assume your building code does not require any expansion connectors or rebar on the footer to footer connection.
The only thing I've noticed is that in the Celcon trench blocks manufacturers instructions, you butt the blocks tight up to one another, no mortar in the perps. Apparently for vermin control. I read that about 5 years ago and that's how I now lay trench blocks.
5:37 Double check its square, it isn't but thats good enough for them. You can see the gap between square and line is half inch at the wall
Right. Very easy to fix at this stage of the game. Just adjust the line, as needed, on the batter board. Then build.
🤜🤛
@@kevocos I’m not quite sure I understand your question but:
If you’re still in the layout stage, like they were, it’s very simple to adjust the line on the batter board, so that when you begin to lay your fnd block, you know that you’re getting started off on the right foot. It’s just a matter of moving the line one way or the other until you’re exactly square. THEN follow the line for your block.
🤜🤛
The back wall of the house may not have been square. More important to get a straight run off the existing side wall by eye IMO.
Hi chris. Looks like a good enjoyable job. And your gang seems tidy too quality before quantity
Thomas Jones It was hard work, but satisfying too
Great stuff again Chris dunno if can say the same about ya mate 😂
At the start he says his footings are going to be 900 deeper than top of existing house footings and that his scalps for ground bearing concrete floor are going to be 600 deep..... look, its a tough old game the building game. But the problem with inexperienced builders like this is they often get themselves into trouble even though they have the best of intentions. Normally they under quote to get the job in the first place and then end up piling on the extras. I wish these guys the best of luck, and i know in the building trade every fucker thinks he's an expert. I would add however if your going to get into doing extensions or loft conversions for people, work for a decent firm first and get the experience you need. Its not rocket science but there is a hell of allot of information you need to learn first.
Some guys not really know what they do.
The foundation would be steady enough to carry a skyscraper.
The setting out, wrongly made, with the line hanging on the wall, instead of set it offset.
No, it is not good enough.
Pouring the concrete onto the old foundation is a fault, it has to be separated, so that it could settle freely.
Leveling like in the 19th century.
Are that air cinder blocks you are laying into the dirt?
And no horizontal sealing in the brickwork.
I don´t want to see part two, because there has been so much failures in part one, I am amazed enough.
@ 3:48
Oops, forgot the rebar!
lol no permit required
In the UK we don't use rebar in house foundations, mainly it's because we don't need to as the ground is stable.
@@TurinTuramber that explain why every most houses got some cracks
@@mateuszzarzyczny5802 Is that what you believe, most houses in the UK develop cracks; further more they could be avoided easily but are not? With respect that makes no sense.
@@TurinTuramber why not make sense ? Rebarb in foundation reinforce foundation.
I seen on new houses in uk lot of cracks because its no rebarb .But that required some more skills .Unfortunetly british building standars its a bit out of date compare to others modern countrys .
@@mateuszzarzyczny5802 There are many foundation techniques for different ground conditions. Mass filled strip foundations do not require rebar that's just the end of it. Perhaps you should write to the institute of chartered structural engineers and tell them that they know nothing and how all the houses in UK are cracking apart.
Did they use a vibrator poker to remove air in the concrete?
I never seen anyone dig a footing with a ditching bucket before . Sacralidge with the level too 😀😀
Top work , laser level helps massively
One will always need rebar , since there is only minimal pull strength in concrete, the other thing is one needs to isolate the extension from the building and use compression material to make sure the concrete does not bind the the building , really essential.Otherwise you're asking for problems, like cracks, ruining the existing foundation of the house.Typical mistakes being made everyday by contractors are nicely documented here
Rebar is only used in the UK when specified by a foundation engineer. For domestic builds on bearing strata, rebar isn't necessary.
Thanks I will make sure I wear a hi viz next time I do some work in my back garden.
that's the only thing to take away from this video LOL
Great video 👍 question- how deep do you make your footer? Is there a general rule for footers - like 5 ft wall , use 5 inch footer, or 10 ft wall, use 10 inch footer.
what do they do for a living
Chris thanks for the upload looking forward to seeing the next one. keep up the good work👍👍
Coming up in the next few days-:)
Nice one lads, getting the job done
Your right about that Chris groundwork is the hardest bit
I love marx brother films.
How much was that?I am getting plans done for 5mx9m extension.Looking forward to do it.great video
It's fine to determine the measurements off the rear walls ,but diagonals should always be incorporated into setting out .
There's nothing to suggest the exsisting build is square ,
As for levels ,A laser would safe you so much work ,from soil levels to concrete ,footing courses ,and even your block work ,and leveling wall plates etc
Money well spent .We all build differently,
Would like to see reinforcement in foundation ,whether inspector requires it or not ,it's very good practice ,12 mm reinforcement mesh ,and you never worry about your concrete ,just a professional observation ,keep up the good work.
The way you were spreading the compo on the found lol it's like an apprentice
A grading bucket to dig footing?
he was trying to tell me it was 600 wide
Andrew Bobbin he bought a dodgy tape or at least was reading the numbers upside down
Great vid Chris , are you doing a part 2 ? Cheers
Thank you, its up in the next few days_:)
Dude, Not only do we have the same surname, but my brother is called Chris too. Crazy.
Can these thermalite type blocks be used on either side?
They would need to be 7 Neuton blocks to withstand the weather, these are specifically made blocks for underground and would be a 7 Neuton
Lads, 2019 now please get a laser level and use a rake and tampboard made from 4x2 , saves your back aswell.
I was thinking the same thing about a laser. All those bricks and blocks just haphazardly stacked up there is kinda sketchy. And using a level for a concrete float? C’mon guys. Get into the ‘90s!
🤜🤛
If it works for Chris and his crew its fine by me 👍I often revert to a water level, absolutely fool proof and can work around corners and behind obstructions, unlike lasers. The only thing I'd want to check is that the 6th course below dpc is truly level ( it most likely is) given that they are happy for work below ground to be cut to fit etc. Can always shutter around drains and step the concrete to correct level and then lintel over.
again Chris another great video
Thank you-:)
Think the bricklayer needs to look up Dunning-Kruger.
Just for reference the trench blocks are interlocking so no need to butter/perp them up. Interlock them and fill hole left at top with compo. Saves time
J D11 only problem here is you loose 10 mm off each block so you either end up with a silly cut in your trench blocks or a 3/4 on brickwork
Yes over the top but better that way than the other.
Is it a 5 story extension?
Coz that foundation will take it
all the better if they ever want to go up another level on the extension.They know it will take it.
Love your videos, what brickies ,1200 level would you recommend,?
minecraft king Thank you, either a Stanley fatmax x1 or a Stabila AS
Concete foundation with no rebarr?
Yes I saw that...I'm not a builder. I am an engineer. 250mm of concrete without rebar? then load it with blocks. I wonder how long was given for the concrete to aquire tensile strength
just asking !!!
@@georgestyer2153 Yes your not a builder , no steel required them footings are going no where , and most brickys will lay on them the day after it soon cures with all the additives in ready mix ..
@@anthonymclean9743 Thanks for your reply....as an engineer I am always guided by the man on the ground....numbers are great but practice rules ..thanks for the reply..
Wish you guys had done my concrete slab and summer house. Turns out an oversized slab lets water in, might have also been better on a timber frame... But then I took advice from wrong people :(
Top job, yes you could use a laser level but or do your vertical joints differently but who cares. The end result is a decent job.
No steel rebars in found? ...
Hire or buy a laser level mate you can set lengths of re bar in your foundation with it then pour your concrete to that then just tamp it your way is abit long winded and less accurate. You can set your foundation corners up with it aswell and your oversite dig out and makeup. Set out put your lines up on profiles to brickwork nail then measure 150mm outside put another nail in and spray up that for dig line!!! That way your not doing set out twice you will have a dig reference and brickwork nail from the off. And as for jointing foundation blocks?? Yes maybe internal blockwork but not underground just flush the joints off....you know your stuff but theres faster more accurate ways to build bud 👍
C Jackson they have to cut blocks to get the level of the foundation . Fuck me these guys are idiots
C Jackson I hear ya. Have dig line on outside and a 600mm bucket on so that way at least u can c the line. Once u take first scrape the lines gone. These guys are beginners at best
C Jackson I
ant reason why you didn't peg the footings to get your level correct
regarding the filming, maybe try landscape mode! Good video thanks
Awesome skills. I need to do a side return extension, but it's so expensive (London). I came here to see if I could do it myself.......................................er................no.
He could butter the blocks is just a different kind of fighter... he's a southpaw😎
Chris why is he buttering a tongue and groove block? I've laid these loads of times and they don't require a perp.
Cheers
😭😭😭
No rebar in the concrete foundation ?
Why ?
You should have continued your footer to above grade so the water will not be able to flood thru the foundation.... I would have brought it 12" above grade then started laying brickwork on top of the above ground foundation... looks good though...
A second course of trench-block would have been better, and faster. Usually, the cavity below grade is back-filled with concrete anyway.
Chris, could you tell me what those huge blocks are made of? Just asking because over here in Germany we have blocns that look similar to them, but only weigh like 6 kilograms
Willi Schneider Hi. they are a light block possibly like the ones you have mentioned!
Chris Longhurst We call them gas concrete. But the ones we use are white and easy to cut. You can even push your finger nails into the m
Willi Schneider I think they're the same as yours. The ones I'm using are a light concrete or "aerated concrete" They are light weight and have exceptional resistance to freeze/thaw conditions and sulfate attack when they occur below ground level!!
Chris Longhurst Our ones are mostly used for outside walls because they serve as a thermal insulation. If you're interested, look for "Porenbeton" on YT or Google :)
In the UK we use them on the inner skin for the same reason-The foundation blocks are a higher density than the 100mm used in the super structure. Thanks for your interest and good conversation...(I will have a look)-:)
no rainwater drain path ("French drain") all around the footing? Are you not worry about water damage?
Impressive chris, I’m an electrician and I tiled my kitchen off the back of one of your tutorials. It annoys me when you get clowns on here knocking what is quite obviously a very good job 👍🏻
Where do I buy those foundation blocks, what size are they, thank you
any builders merchants will sell them
Sorry, do you used a suporex ? I must know becouse I will build small house in Poland form me :) (House must be the same how in UK)
Where is the horizontal and vertical foundation insulation?
??
That is why in most homes in the UK it is mildew on the walls
No .uk house building standards far exceeds that of yours.
Why don’t you need rebar in the concrete founds?
Well at least you dont censor your viewers comments. You are happy to take both positive and negative comments unlike other brickies on TH-cam.
Hi Dave . I'm amazed stu compton didnt block your latest comment which I gave you a thumbs up for . Some of these guys putting up videos act like children when questioned on there methods calling the questioners haters and sad and so on . Did you see his latest videos regarding cowboy builders ?
Hi mate. Yeah I was amazed too. I have watched the latest video too. I m guessing your thoughts are the same as mine.
Haha. He's still blocking all my other comments though. Censorship at its worst!!
Dave Badger . Dave I saw the comment that you left on Stu cromptons im back bricklaying video the other day.. it promptly disappeared you must be banned for good now .
@@brickbybric Yep mate I've been banned for about 2 or 3 years now. I fit into the "hater" profile he bangs on about. Thing is I only ever post constructive criticism comments on his channel. I'm never personal or insulting.
When you read the manufacturers instructions on foundation blocks, it tells you to butt them up to one another below DPC with no mortar perps. This prevents the passage of vermin.
Graeme Howlieson
It's got fuck all to do with vermin. It's designed to save labour costs involved in perp ending a block. Full stop
justy crusty Don't shoot the messenger, download Celcons PDF literature and read it. Telephone Celcon and tell them they're wrong, they don't know their own product. I've only seen one other bricklayer follow manufacturers instructions.
You must have used Standard RCC method for this
By Providing 4 columns up to the required wall height and beams at lower level for transfering the load of wall.
this is more cost efficient as it require digging of pit only where columns will be placed, requires less concrete ,has more strength,&less time consuming.
Decent content. Thanks for three
this video is missing Benny Hill soundtrack
Using a level for a float ?
William Ross e
William Ross We use scaffold planks with 2x2 arms to tamp- this was just finishing and slight adjustments, using an old level lol
Chris Longhurst I think your a magnificent builder Chris , but I can only judge you on TH-cam ! So if you come and build me a conservatory base for free then I will be able to judge your work with my own eyes!😁
Ken Boon Okay Ken, 😜😜😜
Chris Longhurst what happened to the base you were going to film doing?
So how wide was the footings? 750mm?
Why not at least sweep the dirt away. Dirt prevents adhesive