Caught inside by Huge waves in Mexico POV

แชร์
ฝัง
  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
  • My first big wave competition win!
    The Puerto Escondido Challenge 2017
    ‪@GoPro‬ #GoPro

ความคิดเห็น • 650

  • @simongraff8988
    @simongraff8988 3 ปีที่แล้ว +404

    That GoPro mount must be strong as hell. 😂🤙🤙

  • @Mketnr
    @Mketnr 3 ปีที่แล้ว +784

    When the waves look that big on a go pro, you know they massive

    • @DestroyAllWaves
      @DestroyAllWaves 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      So true

    • @badgerbush3556
      @badgerbush3556 3 ปีที่แล้ว +18

      They really need to do something about that, me and my mate surf here in Ireland and it looks like we are surfing 🏄 ankle slapers on the GoPro.

    • @78XT500
      @78XT500 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      GoPro seems to shrink waves so much. Tgis must have been a giant wave.

    • @thenoddy7
      @thenoddy7 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      So true, I've always wondered that watching Nathan Florence's videos.. Makes a 50 foot wave look like a nice overhead day at your local break lol

    • @j3ff3ry18
      @j3ff3ry18 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      PE = no joke

  • @breathspinecore
    @breathspinecore 3 ปีที่แล้ว +56

    Hands down the best, most insane POV ever.

    • @alveer3321
      @alveer3321 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      ☝️🎆👏😙☝️🌊🌠🌞🙏 + alsooo the most refreshing POV on Life & awesumness of Raw Nature, all round :) 🙏🌅🕊

  • @dirtycurty8394
    @dirtycurty8394 3 ปีที่แล้ว +117

    Kai is in superhuman shape. He never looked like he was in trouble during any of those poundings..

  • @Kstross90
    @Kstross90 2 ปีที่แล้ว +43

    4:20 The board spinning while Kai jumps over the back is so sick

    • @peedrowchan-man102
      @peedrowchan-man102 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

      I love it

    • @Ahandleofrum
      @Ahandleofrum 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

      That whole ride was amazing! That cavernous barrel.

    • @andyhoms2001
      @andyhoms2001 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

      ¡Muy enfermo de hecho!

  • @johnsteger
    @johnsteger 3 ปีที่แล้ว +287

    Much RESPECT for your dedication to this life...And being the best you can be 🤙

    • @animeflixcrunchyroll1570
      @animeflixcrunchyroll1570 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Same

    • @karlitosnetana1409
      @karlitosnetana1409 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Here here 🍻

    • @millerjames9818
      @millerjames9818 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      John steger your tryna get clout

    • @johnsteger
      @johnsteger 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      @@millerjames9818 im 40 yrs old and don't give a fuck about clout 🤣😂

    • @pandapumper
      @pandapumper 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Can you guys tell me what clout means?? In Australia it means when you get hit by your parents. My mum gave me a “clout “ when I once ripped all the palings of the fence to build a cubby house

  • @bennigouls
    @bennigouls 3 ปีที่แล้ว +12

    I've always said I would love to see "raw" video of surf where we see champs get pounded !! To be able to see that champs are also getting pounded and that they are not only surfing the waves of their life all the time, shows what it really takes to be at the top !
    Thanks Kai

  • @adow77
    @adow77 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    One of the more interesting surfing vids. Kai's fitness, wave sense and feel for the tube is captured brilliantly. Seems like a genuine waterman with a love for the ocean.

  • @naxxodrop
    @naxxodrop 3 ปีที่แล้ว +36

    I had met 2 persons who just died drowned in Puerto Escondido waters, this is real shit. Even I was in danger in Mazunte early on 2020. Big respect to Kai and everyone who is brave enough to defy the ocean.

  • @neoprene9156
    @neoprene9156 3 ปีที่แล้ว +16

    Huge respect for you Kai, this determination and this courage are impressive!

  • @MotorJeffries
    @MotorJeffries 3 ปีที่แล้ว +16

    Super rad! My best memory of Puerto is drinking a beer on the beach while watching rays jump out of the water in the surf at sunset.

  • @barev22
    @barev22 3 ปีที่แล้ว +73

    3:40 this was mind-altering; I had to watch it three times

    • @RaulEdu33
      @RaulEdu33 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      💯🥇👌🏄‍♂️

    • @hihowareya2839
      @hihowareya2839 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      jeez the way he ducked under that curtain to pull in, wow!

  • @jasonjackson5696
    @jasonjackson5696 3 ปีที่แล้ว +118

    I surfed it about this size several times back in the 80’s when the crowd was pretty much zero, you had to take a miserable hours long bus ride over a washboard dirt road from Oaxaca city with mountain locals & livestock. It was me & my 2 friends out & I’ve surfed a lot of big wave but at this size, feeling all alone & no rescue with 100 miles, it scared the shit out of me.
    I watch these vids & my PTSD comes back😂😂

    • @iagofratti
      @iagofratti 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      Did you use any security equipment? If you wipeout in this conditions with no life vest or anything , the chance you get a really gnarly held down is pretty big!

    • @TorusPCarr
      @TorusPCarr 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      There is another beach at Colima , the waves are almost like puerto but is scarier because there is no lifeguards and a small crowd

    • @TorusPCarr
      @TorusPCarr 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      @@iagofratti there's a lot of guys that don't use security equipment and now imagine 30 years ago vests where almost nonexistent

    • @jasonjackson5696
      @jasonjackson5696 3 ปีที่แล้ว +31

      @@iagofratti - no security equipment but we were all expert swimmers & in excellent condition. Besides, inflatable vests weren’t even thought of.
      If your leash broke, you swam & thought about the hammerheads you saw the day before - true story.
      We would regularly get the 2 wave hold downs but it wasn’t anything to panic about, it was just part of the experience & you just dealt with it.

    • @rksnote9635
      @rksnote9635 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      Jason, you are an O.G. my friend. Respect!

  • @bgwhalley
    @bgwhalley 3 ปีที่แล้ว +33

    0:10 Surfer in the background in prayer.

    • @ZBhandZ
      @ZBhandZ 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      Omg I noticed that too I was scared for him haha

  • @sharkoboyo
    @sharkoboyo 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    Best surf contest footage I’ve seen in my life

    • @itcantbetruebutis7778
      @itcantbetruebutis7778 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Watch the jaws cbdmd competition way better footage and massive waves in 2 sets will blow the mind !! This is good no doubt but nowhere near that..

    • @itcantbetruebutis7778
      @itcantbetruebutis7778 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      It's on Nathan Florence's channel and go bout half way thru for action and it's amazing footage

  • @kevinsutube1p528
    @kevinsutube1p528 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Didn’t look anywhere close to 50 feet. Puerto looks brutal though. That last wave at 10:00 was sick

  • @brennanhaleski9588
    @brennanhaleski9588 3 ปีที่แล้ว +23

    2:34 "ohhhhhhhhh fuuuuuuuuuuuuck"

  • @timsmith6700
    @timsmith6700 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    6:41 superman. Love this. Great pov. Thank you . Stay stoked.

  • @mattbaker1683
    @mattbaker1683 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    I held my breath with every wave! 😂 Sick video footage man 🔥🔥🔥👌

  • @waynehearst317
    @waynehearst317 10 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    I just stop bye once in a while to see when this guy is going to reveal that he's actually an alien from another planet. He's just that special. He's like the Travis Pastrana of motorsports....oozing with talent and great personality.

  • @mikec.7283
    @mikec.7283 3 ปีที่แล้ว +28

    Kai “El Gato” Lenny. I woulda died at least 9 times. This guy’s pretty incredible in big water.

  • @rumtum99
    @rumtum99 3 ปีที่แล้ว +16

    You’ve gotta be in amazing shape my man just getting worked

  • @richrocha3069
    @richrocha3069 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Went there every year from
    1978 to 1984
    September & October
    stayed for 20$ a month
    at the carpentero's cabanas ,
    got it big 20'-25' with no crowds !
    Best day I can remember was 5'-7' perfect shape late afternoon glass off turquoise perfection !

  • @OspreyVision
    @OspreyVision 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    The winning barrel was amazing! >>> POV was off the hook >>> thanks for sharing your 1st win! >> you are inspiring!

  • @johnymaloney1190
    @johnymaloney1190 3 ปีที่แล้ว +10

    What an amazing edit!
    I'm absolutely shitting my pants...
    I just noticed what seems to be a pectus excavatum, Kai. It would make all of your acomplishments that much more incredible! Could it be? All the best from Portugal, happy new year!

    • @mikebranch7928
      @mikebranch7928 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

      No they wear suits with padding and or c02 for flotation

  • @NevilleFarkinBartos
    @NevilleFarkinBartos 3 ปีที่แล้ว +61

    thought for a moment there you had gone from jaws to mavericks to mexico to surf the same swell lol

  • @seblivefloormanager
    @seblivefloormanager ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Such sick footage of someone who I believe will be remembered along the same lines as Laird. His commitment to pushing the boundaries, his enthusiasm and cajones are unrivalled. Kai Lenny Ultimate Waterman 🙌✨️🤙

  • @ziezoh
    @ziezoh 3 ปีที่แล้ว +128

    Biggest pounding I ever took was at Puerto Escondido.

    • @jasonjackson5696
      @jasonjackson5696 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Я тоже! (Me too)

    • @rodneysmart9774
      @rodneysmart9774 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      Someone got hurt there everyday when I stayed there 80 81

    • @juanjosebotta3637
      @juanjosebotta3637 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      The same for me😂 back in the sand violently😪

    • @anatta467
      @anatta467 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      ditto

    • @bh2861
      @bh2861 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      Can only imagine how wild that place is when it's cooking

  • @royalzion576
    @royalzion576 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    It’s awesome how you paddle onto one wave and then get the very next following wave in one sequence. So cool

  • @hitcho5812
    @hitcho5812 3 ปีที่แล้ว +63

    6:46 weeeeeee

    • @XEP0L
      @XEP0L 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      He just flew away 😂

  • @Si-zz7ul
    @Si-zz7ul 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Sick!! I wouldve drowned on the first wave probably so much respect Kai.

    • @Texan1981
      @Texan1981 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      That makes two of us!

  • @Killemgrillem00
    @Killemgrillem00 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Big props to my landlord in Bali, The Silent Ninja. Who rescued surfers at Puerto in 4 to 6 times overhead. In the '80s. FANTASTIC VIDEO !! Thank u.

  • @surfgurujeff
    @surfgurujeff 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Broke my back real bad there the next year on a "medium" sized day, place is heavy. Yeah, Kai! It was a good show, stoked to see it in person!

  • @danestanley-sandymartin
    @danestanley-sandymartin ปีที่แล้ว

    Some of the best footage ever in this Kai. Balls of steel as always.

  • @MRMIKE276
    @MRMIKE276 3 ปีที่แล้ว +30

    8:46 smooth af

  • @conradserrano5948
    @conradserrano5948 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    We don't always get to see the battle that these warriors go through in the lineup. His stamina to keep paddling is unreal.

  • @parkermay6686
    @parkermay6686 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I got mad respect for u Kai but everyone has to give respect for the guy at the first clip who took that MONSTER TO THE HEADDD.

  • @tropicalpnch4549
    @tropicalpnch4549 11 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    I still come back to the video time and time again and watch the whole thing just amazed at the danger and how thrilling this must be to be out there

  • @MsBob314
    @MsBob314 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Siiiiiiick! 3:40 - 4:20 is the m most surreal, most epic coverage ever. The slow motion diving off the board looks like an astronaut jumping into a nebula. Amazing.

  • @audiblematter2152
    @audiblematter2152 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Classic. He got first wave of the set with 3 or 4 behind on top of him but “ it didn’t really do much”
    That’s gotta be an understatement . I can only imagine fighting for my life

    • @Hashpotato
      @Hashpotato 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      in fairness he does have an inflatable vest to give him a bitta help

  • @lemonyellow3117
    @lemonyellow3117 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    For there to be winners there must be losers. Smoke gets in my eye as my ashtray is piled high while I watch Kai touch the sky. What a nice, positive guy. You go man!

  • @happyvalleyhappyvalley1156
    @happyvalleyhappyvalley1156 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    those chemtrail milky clouds are horrifying. you rock KAI..aloha from happy valley maui ! ( cop canyon )

  • @selenator4life642
    @selenator4life642 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Congratulations on your WIN 🌊✨🤙
    That was the sickest POV video I've ever seen... frickin' awesome (brutal) 😱😱

  • @dicotrikedrift
    @dicotrikedrift 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Very good to remember a moment like this !! Congratulations on the championship you deserve too much !! I'm your fan here from Brazil !! you are a monster when it comes to any board sport !! hopefully one day I will have the pleasure of meeting you !!

  • @matthewmoir8627
    @matthewmoir8627 3 ปีที่แล้ว +16

    Did you release your leash on wave 1 and 2 or did they break?

  • @michael22414
    @michael22414 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    So excited to go to puerto this week for the first time and learn to surf :)

    • @rodneysmart9774
      @rodneysmart9774 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      It's very nice in the dry season. Clear, warm water small waves.

  • @julioestrada3111
    @julioestrada3111 3 ปีที่แล้ว +21

    I'm only 3 minutes in having to comment "Holy shit you got pounded"

  • @Jarboy
    @Jarboy 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    5:28 DAMN! that lip hit looks scary as hell!
    Ay at least my man got some AMAZING waves

  • @nokeli6152
    @nokeli6152 3 ปีที่แล้ว +36

    sorry I'll stop commenting but when Kai got smashed by the lip it was so
    terrifying.

    • @michaelpihkal
      @michaelpihkal 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Kai is the grandson of Superman.

    • @Killemgrillem00
      @Killemgrillem00 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      You need a Binky ? Or another mail in ballot ?

    • @georgeannaflook1016
      @georgeannaflook1016 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@Killemgrillem00 dude what

    • @niccosta
      @niccosta 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@georgeannaflook1016 lmfaooo

  • @jordanmills1106
    @jordanmills1106 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Some of the best pov I've seen the barrels went on forever and that wave looked so heavy kai you are a legend never looked phased not once! keep doing your thing 💥✌

  • @Soldado_deDios1
    @Soldado_deDios1 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    When Kai say big, for us is hugeeeee..!! Well done bro..👏🏽👏🏽🤙🏽

  • @rnunezc.4575
    @rnunezc.4575 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    First take is unbelievably real it feels exactly as when you get caught the worst way and felt that ache in my stomach !...what a beating ..!

  • @flyfishinglessonsnow
    @flyfishinglessonsnow 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Maybe one of the best waterman to grace our sport. Thanks for sharing. Mahalos.

  • @daveallen2455
    @daveallen2455 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Took a massive beating for that trophy, Big Congrats !!!!!!

  • @luisagreen9115
    @luisagreen9115 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Congratulations Kai! We were hoping so bad that you were going to head to Puerto to surf these killer waves! They are treacherous for sure! You made it look easy amigo, congrats! Love the footage, wow!!!!

  • @jessesingersongwriter
    @jessesingersongwriter 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Awe inspiring to see Kai get hammered again and again by those heavy Puerto waves, hanging in there and finally snagging the winner.

  • @AlaskaPirates
    @AlaskaPirates 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    That slow motion in the green room is radical.

  • @asraliaikum
    @asraliaikum 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    the commitment is ridiculous

  • @roxananasturas
    @roxananasturas 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    That was brutal even to watch. Great perseverance:)

  • @tomschick3863
    @tomschick3863 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Heaviest waves I've ever surfed was in Puerto. Lucky I was 21 years hold and in better shape back then.. now at 42 I'd have a broken back.
    We flew into Acapulco and rented a van and drove 8 hours to Puerto Escondido. Such a great trip!!

    • @PolymathAtif
      @PolymathAtif 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      How did you break your back?

    • @koro287
      @koro287 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

      So me at 62, your saying i probably should give it a miss ?

  • @niklentfer618
    @niklentfer618 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    man those shots from inside the barrels are so fricken gnarly

  • @thiagoqm
    @thiagoqm 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    my heart is beating more on that video than when I surf 4 feet waves

  • @birdsoup777
    @birdsoup777 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    You are the bravest man in the Universe. Glad you made it out alive.

  • @arsaeterna4285
    @arsaeterna4285 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    getting caught under a wave is like dying
    and popping out, unexpectedly, to the surface
    is like birth, and the next few minutes feel like a new chance at life haha

  • @mysandyballs
    @mysandyballs 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Unreal footage. Cajones of steel on that lad!

  • @zachgrayling3386
    @zachgrayling3386 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    I try and hold my breath for the whole time Kai is getting smashed. But I get so nervous I can’t do it 😂

  • @guanjames1984
    @guanjames1984 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    Kai is a f*in beast.

  • @cesarcaceres26
    @cesarcaceres26 ปีที่แล้ว

    This video is nuts! 🤯 He breaks leashes like rubber bands 😝 so much power in Zicatela 🔥

  • @pratuber
    @pratuber 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Those are some mammoth barrels! You are the OG! Unreal!

  • @karlitosnetana1409
    @karlitosnetana1409 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Bro that was the most exhilarating footage I've ever seen period!! 🙌
    That was an awesome insight into what it takes to win there. Guts n determination with years of practice obviously 🌊😲🤙
    I'm tingling with pure stoke for ya, congratulations man🥇Major Shakka Bra 🤙... Numero Uno ☝
    Ewwwww 🏄

  • @seangerst6561
    @seangerst6561 ปีที่แล้ว

    Man, the shot of the turning board and Kai whiping out in the background was crazy...

  • @ziggyclark5619
    @ziggyclark5619 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Yeeeeeew 🤟 6:41 you do be jumping like a s squirrel

  • @pumpupthevolume4775
    @pumpupthevolume4775 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Best POV surfing videos on TH-cam. Hope you had your shots Kai, and I don't mean Covid.

  • @killbill5486
    @killbill5486 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    2:35- That's how terrifying a 6 footer looks to me. I'm pretty sure I'd die of a heart attack before I drowned in those waves.

    • @angellestat2730
      @angellestat2730 ปีที่แล้ว

      That wave does not have 50 foot as the video claim.. 15 foot max..

  • @mystre3550
    @mystre3550 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I don't surf Mexico anymore. If you notice all that brown foam, that ain't just brown foam lol. It has gotten worse and worse throughout the years. After getting sick a few times from surfing K58, La Fonda, La Mission, and a few secret spots. I just gave up a few years back.

  • @cadenashworth1753
    @cadenashworth1753 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Stay psyched and stay safe everyone! God bless🙏🏼🙏🏼🤙🏼

  • @sirwilliams3885
    @sirwilliams3885 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    These are super nice guys dedicated to the sport.. may they catch waves for ever🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

  • @BeachJedi101
    @BeachJedi101 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Definitely some monster waves. But 50ft? Absolutely no way.

  • @dreams2reality410
    @dreams2reality410 ปีที่แล้ว

    Commanding with absolutely no fear. It's art in motion.

  • @itisjustacomment
    @itisjustacomment 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Love this video. Really showed one man versus a wave.

  • @TaranakiGreenfields
    @TaranakiGreenfields 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Maaaate those inside barrel ejections looked full on from the go pro shots. Hectic!! Can't believe how calm you are bobbing in the water in front of mountains of white water.

  • @jabbabbabba
    @jabbabbabba 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    4:10. So trippy

  • @phillygrappler
    @phillygrappler 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesome footage! His stamina and strength is off the charts!

  • @darrenmckee9771
    @darrenmckee9771 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    That first slow-mo of the board going over the falls was 👌🍻

  • @fiddlestickzmuzik
    @fiddlestickzmuzik 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    That was really hard to watch, those sets that appeared just when he came up for air...whew

  • @drumclaypete
    @drumclaypete 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    4:16 what a shot

  • @melissaschonig1490
    @melissaschonig1490 11 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Nice wave Kai Lenny a big fan. I even have a car verse that says Kai Lenny obviously

  • @chloen3020
    @chloen3020 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    4:20 awesome spinning of the camera on the wipeout

  • @jasonsmith7518
    @jasonsmith7518 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Kai Lenny is fearless big wave surfer.

  • @jmlee84
    @jmlee84 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    mad respect, i have no desire to ever surf puerto escondito. looks like the gnarliest beach break ever

  • @mountainssea9642
    @mountainssea9642 11 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

    Puerto is so scary to me. I wouldn’t paddle out on a 4-6 day

  • @alexdubois6585
    @alexdubois6585 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    insane ride @3:44

  • @yannick4861
    @yannick4861 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    So heavy bro!!!! Good job! That last barrel was siiiccckkk!

  • @brutismaximus1
    @brutismaximus1 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    4:14 looked so trippy

  • @MUGSYBROWN
    @MUGSYBROWN 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    That was FUN man !! Thanks for the ride !!

  • @johnthemon86
    @johnthemon86 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I'm not saying there weren't big wave but I never saw a 50ft wave. Maybe a 30 footer but not 50 ft. Maybe I missed it...

  • @ATMfromNJ
    @ATMfromNJ 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    VIP green room views there. Amazing!

  • @zorrobreizh44
    @zorrobreizh44 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Waow. Like if we were with you in the water. I think than I've hold my breath... Aloha and happy new year 2021. Keep on riding 🤙

  • @Fuhgit-lu4tj
    @Fuhgit-lu4tj 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Nothing sucks worse than thinking you timed the sets right, only to paddle out and get caught up by a set wave coming down five feet from you. It’s a great way to think to yourself, I’m gonna drown. Happened to me in a huge swell that hit Newport Beach. I walked three finger jetties before I found my board. I thought it was gone.

  • @daverupes7022
    @daverupes7022 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hawaiian Hammmah ! Laid Hamilton and Kai Lenny are living legends