The BEST way to run ELECTRICAL in the BEST HOUSE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Big thanks to NorthOne for partnering with us on this video! Use my link to apply for NorthOne and get a $10 credit when you open and fund your account: apply.northone...
So many questions about how the electrical is ran in the best house, and finally with about 99% completion of electrical inside, I can show you guys not only how the electrical is ran, but also why I think this adds to the value of the best house.
Also I answer a lot of common questions that have been coming in over the last few videos.
This best house plan is available as well as a few others here
rrplans.bigcar...
Big thanks to NorthOne for partnering with us on this video. Use my link to apply for NorthOne and get a $10 credit when you open and fund your account: apply.northone.com/kyle
We need physical bank branches and to use cash.
@@ChipsNeeson There is a big difference between cash and currency. One is fiat and the other has been around for thousands of years. Our Constitution states that only gold and silver is to be used.
Illinois is where real electricians exist. Romex is for 2nd level electricians. If you call your self and electrician and have never bend EMT, you should question your title.
Been building like this in Norway/ scandinavia for years now. exept we build stickframe not post. works great. No bad air inside and no mold. Glad to see someone in the US also believe in this way of building houses. love your videos! Greetings from Norway.
Hi, It seems that you have a great experience.
I am a student eager to learn about construction work, I'm actively seeking someone in this field who can share their expertise with my student team. Really need insights from you, feel free to hit me up!
Skjønner ikke hvorfor de bruker stål rør til elektriske anlegget🙈 Det ble gjort i Norge for 60 - 70 år siden. De henger etter på så mye syns jeg, men det er bare min mening🤷🏻
I also have been following the Swedish framing/insulation model for years. On this particular wall, we would have added 1.5” of rigid insulation in between the nailing gerts. As you said, it is nice to see other builders starting to adopt a new method of building.
@@Jens92he literally says the client requested conduit and they usually use romex.
Depends on the funding for projects like this. Your average American can’t afford a home this standard. Not to mention over half the country doesn’t get cold enough to need this thermal efficiency. Pretty cool to build it, but when it comes down to 10 of thousands of dollars for a few efficiency points. Most people will pass.
Nice work. It's great to see someone using science to build.
The leaky-breathable structure I plan to build is a cattle-calf barn. They do not need HVAC-ERV or DeHumidifiers, lol
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The great thing about running conduit for the electrical is if anything ever happens to any of the wiring, you can pull out the old wire and pull in new, and cost will be much lower and no new penetrations will ever have to be made. It definitely takes more time, and the cost is probably more initially, but conduit is really the way to go for several reasons. Looks like they done a great job.
I wonder what the cost ratio is for conduit compared to Romex.
@@chrisbabbitt4202 you have the cost of conduit on top of the cost of wire. Then the wire you pull into a conduit run is single wires on 500 ft. spools of THHN/TWN-2 a double rated wire for wet locations, anything in a conduit is considered a wet location, so it would be significant, and it's going to depend on where you by the EMT, and not all are the same grade, so if you are getting it cheaper from one outlet, it may be because it's inferior, and you will be able to tell when you start bending it; the cheaper stuff has a tendency to flatten a little on the bend. but everything is up on price right now, and if you have any 240v circuits you would want to make sure to get red along with the black, white and green you would pull for a single 120v circuit. then you have all the connectors and couplings and boxes, single gang and four square boxes and plaster rings. and there would probably be a few 411 boxes with blank plates for junction boxes and pull boxes. some people use four square for junction boxes, but you limit yourself on those. Because half of the knockouts are 1/2" EMT and half 3/4". 3/4" is just easier to make your pulls in, but in some commercial settings, 3/4" is a minimum, especially in hospitals, so there are a lot of equipment parts to think of on top of the wire if you go with EMT instead of Romex. Romex is fast and easy, but there are benefits to EMT. but the cost is going to be significant.
True that
Very much agreed!!!!!!!!
@@comingtofull-ageinchrist6736 don't you generally not need the green (ground) when running metal conduit as the conduit/metal boxes are the ground contact? i can see there may be some situations where it is required. most devices wired in would ground via the screw, but some may need manual wiring to a grounding screw in the box, but i think most wont. if you go to the 7:25 mark, you can even see they didn't run any green/bare grounding wire, just the black and white. for the most part, you should just be running the black and white unless you need a red, for something like a 240v circuit (what you mentioned) or maybe a 3 way switch or something.
running conduit like this is definitely more expensive initially though, but i agree it is better for future proofing your house. you will easily and WAY more affordably be able to re-run wires when everything has changed in 10/15/20+ years or so.
Great to see an evolution of building technology on an american building channel. As a swedish elictrician i love to see all electrical in conduit inside the walls, which has been code here for 100 years.
I know this building with the variable vapor barrier and air sealing works great and is how we have been building last 15 years, and it works fort both heat as 30*C and to as low as -25*C. No problems with mold or smell or bad health.
95 percent of builders could care less! Only the 5% that care about building a great house that will last a 50-100 years and prevent mold and moisture will do it! If it’s not part of the bldg code! they’re not gonna do it ! Nobody else gives a rats patootie! With that said, I care, but I’m extremely well educated about this through TH-cam university!
Kyle, use the ERV/HRV for the bathroom exhaust. It will limit the penetrations through the cavity . Also allowing the use of 20/40/60 timers at the point of extract.
I've seen this done in new construction up here in Canada; the bathroom basically has a 4 or 5 inch "exhaust" port tucked away in the corner of the wall and is drawing air 24/7. No need for exhaust fan switch at all.
@@wesbuckley5535 I am an Energy Star Builder in Wisconsin/Minnesota as well. I've been using the ERV/HRV as an exhaust for the Bath/Kitchen/Laundry since 2000. What I like about this type of system is that the penetrations to the outside are limited to the ERV/HRV, it's really quiet (No loud bath fans), and the use of timers for the kids that usually forget to turn the fan on.
The ERV should provide plenty of ventilation for bathrooms, no need for a dedicated bathroom exhaust fan. What I haven’t decided is if I need makeup air for the kitchen range hood. The ERV I am considering can handle some of the imbalance but only upto the max flow of the supply fan (the exhaust side effectively shuts off).
@@wesbuckley5535 The amount of moisture dumped into a bathroom by a long hot shower is not going to exhaust very quickly through the erv at its base ventilation rate…. there may be a code requirement for a boost switch
@@wesbuckley5535 I second C most places have code requirements for a boost switch. The thing I really like about using an erv or hrv for bathroom exhaust is you are not wasting all of the heat generated from the shower and range hood in the kitchen.
I'm very interested in seeing a blower door test performed. There's a lot to like about post-frame construction, especially the thermal efficiency, tightness and cost effectiveness. Well done gents!
If it were my building I would want EMT conduit as well. It allows conductor repair, upgrades and alterations without tearing into finished walls. Romex does not. The wall needs to be opened to add circuits with Romex. I am an electrician.
I’ve been an electrician for 25 years and I love using conduit but, most homeowners are not going to go with the price difference from romex Ray.
@@greenridgepropertysolution3211 absolutely, an extreme few would see the value in it. In my personal home and workshop buildings I use a combination of conduit, mc cable and Romex depending on the application.
@Ray Green thanks for your input!
Can you add new circuits as easily with conduit as compared to Romex?
@@DylanDraper1 no sir. That’s a downside to conduit.
I'd love to see a video dedicated to fasteners and their various applications. Screws, lags, bolts, all the types of nails, it's difficult to keep track of what goes where.
I totally agree. That's an episode to takes notes on and flag for reference. I can never remember what to use for what application.
Love your work guys!!
As an electrician myself I would have spent a large amount of time doing all my electrical rough-in in the slab with PVC, to allow me to not have to penetrate those critical areas of the air barrier, and to minimize both cost and time spent running that EMT everywhere. Do you ever mention the total cost of this build?
Full on three minute ad in there. Yuck
I love seeing conduit in homes. If you wanted to use Romex I would be cautious about a 1.5” cavity. Code requires NM cable to be 1 1/8” from the rough surface. (Basically a 1 5/8” drywall screw should not be capable of puncturing any part of the wire). Your electrical inspector could be justified in failing an installation involving stapling Romex to the thin face of a 2x framing member or requiring metal protection over the entire run of wire. If you make the cavity large enough you can eliminate this problem.
Also handy boxes seem an odd choice, 4” squares with plaster rings are soooooo much nicer to work with especially if you need to install a GFCI, dimmer or anything non standard in a box. Lastly, running EMT to the transformers for the thin recessed lighting may come back to bite you. Those transformers are meant to be serviced/replaced. Hard piping then requires drywall to be removed if they ever need to be serviced. I would also argue it violates the code requirement for that junction to be accessible. (There is no way you can get your hand in there to fix a factory quick connect that jiggled loose over the course of construction.). The solution here is run the last bit of that run in MC or make your service cavity deep enough to actually be useful.
Anyways, love your vids!
They could always use stand offs like we do with furring strips on a block wall. Also I'm just confused as to why they would go above and beyond with running conduit in a house, then not pull an actual ground wire.
You dont need a ground with emt counduit. But looking at the video they shouldve. I can tell by the video that this isnt going to be inspected. And if it is. The electrical inspector is going to have a field day. 3ft from box and every 10’ I see neither for strapping
If you’re talking about the LED wafer lights I agree. And I never trust the conduit as my grounding conductor.
@@AntonioRamirez-xg5ce yeah no straps all in wall no way im doing that without strapping
@deke80 he is probably up near Chicago and conduit is code for all buildings. The use of flex and mc is very limited in that area.
when you do your blower door testing, all of the electrical boxes should be covered with tape or the actual devices and their covers. If left uncovered, the emt conduit that goes to unconditioned spaces will be a vessel to allow outside air into the structure and ruin your true blower test results.
Good point, but it is a good practice to place a pinch of non-hardening duct seal around the conductors entering an unconditioned or exterior space in any sized conduit. Just open a box cover on a cold day and feel the breeze. Anyway, the wiring job is generally impressive!!
Are your allowed to spray some foam I’m the conduits that go from outside in or inside out. Or maybe caulk it? But definitely a flaw when trying to be this meticulous.
I see you hit the wrong nail. As for the piped LED drivers, so eone is going to have some drywall repairs when one of the hard piped drivers fail...that part is a terrible idea.
Yep, bad idea.
Those led drivers for the pot lights are gonna be a pain to replace when they crap out down the road, since they are hardpiped into the EMT. BX whips off JBs would be the way to go there.
From Atlantic Canada here, thoroughly enjoying your channel having recently subscribed due to the wonders of algorithms! Saving selection of your vids for discussion with sub contractors and other DIY"ers and builders. Thank you so much....the electrical prep and keeping a very tight air seal is one of the 4 top priorities while planning for any build...including one that hopefully will happen here .... some time....where are the quality builders eh! 🙏 🇨🇦
a lot of swedish homes are build like this, or similar :) amazing!
It is obvious to me that you and Greg strive for perfection in everything you guys build. It's never perfect, but you two do your best to try and achieve that.
Great stuff!! We use additional tape for instalation of battens over water resistant layer on our roofs. We use screws instead of nails to make the detail even tighter. In Czechia it’s the minimum code for water resistance.
Great work you guys do it’s definitely up there with european way!!
You have jumped up your building quality details a lot over the last couple of years. Good for you and thanks for the details.
Much appreciate the attention to detail. As a commercial builder we run into fire block issues all the time. Post frame does not seem to follow the same ability to contain fire to specific areas. How do you get thru inspection process without showing proof of fire control between levels and wall elevations.
Excellent video and very informative! Thanks Kyle
i’m loving what your teaching us about Post Frame!
Love what you do man. I didn’t read through these comments but… always think about the conduits themselves for an air path. You can just use ideal duct seal or a fire stop fill material to plug the conduits as best as you can inside the boxes around the wires, inside the panel, etc.
To eliminate air Ingres through electrical penetration - use armored cable, cable glands ( you can even get IP68 ones) and gland plate, which you can cover with wrapping and tape after the installation.
Your information is very clear and concise thanks for sharing ! 👏 👍
Skyline (commented here) has a great idea.
My initial thought during your vent fan discussion was that the fan could also be wall mounted to an interior(dividing) wall and the exhaust duct could run straight to the exterior wall. Skyline's comment is better yet as it has no exterior penetration and also allows the bonus of reclaimed conditioned air rather than exhausting that conditioned air to the outside.
Siga makes an EPDM type flange with a Fenrtum type tape embedded onto it for penetrations called a Manschette. Made for both the Majvest and Majrex. Also comes in 3 different sizes for anything from 1/2 pipes or wires to 7" ducts.
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yeah a leaky house is definitely not good for your A/C. definitely better to be as tight as possible
If your building is that tight are you planning make up air for bath and kitchen vents? Seems like the Broan erv would be a good option.
I had the exact same question.
It'll be essential. Makeup air is actually code now.
All that conduit, what a pain.
I am guessing conduit was required by code because there would be no way to protect the romex from drywall screws. My inspector would not allow me to run romex along any girt boards. Luckily I asked before I ran the wiring.
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Hey Kyle, great build!
I was wondering if you could give us a review on what rain gear you use, I'm in the market and I trust your recommendations.
Cheers from Tokyo!
Stu
Great info and presentation as always. I'm a long-time subscriber/viewer but for some reason (possibly "user error") I got unsubscribed. So, I JUST "re-subscribed". LOL.
My burning question (we'll be building a post-frame home in the high desert of Northern Arizona later this year). If you're running your interior gerts (sp?) on the exterior walls at 2'-0" on center, how do you handle the nailing/screwing schedule on the butt joints? I never see this issue detailed in any post-frame videos (at least that I've seen). Thanks for the time you take to produce these videos. I've learned a ton.
cost of running EMT conduit with individual wires a.k.a. conductors versus using Romex throughout the entire job. I believe the cost to run electrical on an average 2000 square-foot house $10,000 - $15,000.
Cost for running EMT? $40,000 - $60,000. Any thoughts?
250Ft 12/2 Romex $159. X 2 = $318. 12 AWG solid core THHN wire 500Ft $106. White, black, Green, Red
$106 x 3 = $318 for 500Ft.
500 Ft of 1/2” EMT 50 10Ft pieces $6.59 x 50 = $329. Standard licensed electrician labor is $100. Per hour Labor
Question: how many hours would it take to connect up 500 feet of EMT making the bends when necessary installing the connectors run the (3) Conductors aka wires through each EMT.
You’re also limited to the number of conductors (each wire) 12/14 gauge wire that you have installed in a EMT conduit! Per NEC, Cannot exceed 50% of the total thickness of the wire of the inside diameter of the EMT conduit
12/2 or 14/2 wire and you have to jump to the next size 3/4”, 1” or 1.5”
EMT 1/2” x 10Ft Conduit $6.59 set of 5 connectors $3.99 to screw into single gang, 2 gang etc EMT connectors $.47 each boxes $.80 each 3/4” x 10Ft isn’t cheap! A lot of bends. Much more expensive labor by a factor of 5-10
More! Overkill! With that said if the drywall is attaching directly to your 2 x6 batons. Then anybody at any time could be mounting a picture on the wall and pierce the Romex! Unless I’m missing something? When you install Romex through to buy wall cavities, you have to install nail plates every time you make a hole in the center of the stud to prevent somebody from nailing or screwing into it!
We vented our bathroom 💨 fan through the conditioned space and then through the back wall of our poolhouse. No roof penetration. (No such thing as too tight, we have an ERV coupled with a heat pump conditioned air system.)
In my 15 year old home ( we're second owner) I take the 8' ceiling above the shower and false ceiling it down 1' and in that warm 12" area I duct my exhaust fan horizontally into the adjacent room where I mount the fan and the DUCT THE DISCHARGE DOWN AND OUT.
Why? Because when the fan is offline cold air can't migrate backwards uphill and make the shower ceiling cold!!
No more condensation offline inside the ducts, noise reduced with fan motor outside of bathroom, shower heats up quicker ( less volume) and an added bonus is now I put a waterproof led light in the ceiling.
Yes very good Sir. The right way to do electric install for residential homes. The way to go. Better than code. With stick framed walls, the trick of the electric craft use installation 2x2 walls on top of the first built 2x4 wall equavalent structure. Conduitpipe (PVC-pipe) in construction for residential electric wireing and circuit connect - like inside wireing - out of wireing them (not 'Romex' equivalent standard instead of conduit pipe and protected wires inne i röret) to connection box and application sockets.
You may check out DIY built (smaller) home demonstrating this (using installation walls). TH-camr Mindsparx.
Would you use Majrex in a basement buildout? Full basement, North of Chicago, 2" Foamular rigid foam glued to walls followed by 1" air gap, 2x4 insulated wall, 1/2" drywall.
Everything about this is really nice. I applaud all of you but.... how in the world can this be cost effective?
FYI How much R do you need? In parts of CO, it was found that high winter winds were the issue. Your better off sealing the crap out of your exterior walls than just making them fatter. How good fiberglass functions is as much about air flow as thickness. If those wall bays leak air, you have moving air in the bays. Modern heating systems are more stingy so with radiant floor, it can takes hours to warm up an air exchange. A leaky wall with high exchanges during high wind loading means the heat system can never catch up. Stick framing was a huge cost advantage in its day. But the cost of energy is changing that. You are going to need to deal with thermal bridging and high air exchanges. As a timber framer, we went to using SIPs. But this system seems to be a pretty good alternative to timber framing especially since not all structures can be timber framed.
I'm so impressed with how far you've came in making a more efficient building envelope which I think post frame can Excell at. I was one of those who yrs back couldn't wait for you to work with Matt Risinger with his building science group. Now I am seeing how I can apply it to my post frame building to make it better. Thanks so much for what your doing
I thought this was a great explanation on the exterior walls on air and moisture!
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What happened to "Best" being spray foam? No wall penetration issues there..
Used to be "why I don't use spray foam before that"... I don't mind building science changes and advancement but this does feel like a commercial.
Still get a lot out of your content though...
Learned a lot over the years...
Your bathroom vent fan ducting idea makes sense. I have a bathroom fan that is ducted through a well insulated attic, into the roof. The duct unfortunately is not insulated, consequently it rains water out of the fan when it's cold outside. My plan is to insulate that vent fan duct.
Just curious. Rockwool is not cheap, and I am sure that the Siga Mirex isn't either. Have you done cost comparisons on this method vs. Spray foam?
Do you have a video with your romex wiring vs conduit? I am building a shop with 3 rooms in it. I was planning on just surface mounting my electrical in conduit. But burying romex in the walls would be cheaper than running conduit everywhere
Great video Kyle. We live in Louisiana with what seems like opposite weather concerns from up north. Our issue is hot on the outside, not freezing. How would our location change how you build/seal post frame? Or would it?? Thank you.
Great build series. Would you recommend this type of construction for a subtropical climate like in Central America. Asking for a friend :)
I know materials and labor pricing is different in different areas, but can you give us a rough estimate on the cost of having a post frame house such as the one in this series spray foamed vs the rock wool/siga options. I realize there is a lot that goes into this as it affects other trades as well, so just looking for a general “costs about 10-15% more” kind of thing. Thanks.
An ERV does not remove moisture, thus is not appropriate for a tight home in a cold climate unless coupled with a dehumification solution.
An HRV brings in fresh air also, but dehumifies as well (condensate drain required)
Either won't cause problems in a leaky home in a cold climate, but in tight homes in cold climates, the HRV is the appropriate unit for fresh air; note that spot ventilation/makeup air may be necessary for a range hood in very air-tight homes.
You have that backwards. ERV=Energy Recovery Ventilator (temperature & humidity). HRV=Heat Recovery Ventilator (temperature only)
I'm wondering if you didn't use the exterior girts or that type of insulation method and instead, used Structural Insulated Pannels (SIP's) like timber frames are built. What would the air quality and cost end up being?
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Why do you have steel pipes and boxes for electrical wiring? In Norway we have been using plastic wall boxes and pipes for many years. With plastic pipes you have the flexibility to run them wherever you want. Also why don’t you set up framing walls after you have installed the siga waper in the sealing? Then you don’t have to pull it trough the walls and in between the studs and tape it after
Doesn’t the drywall sag due to the way you have the 2xs laid for the ceiling??
Not at all!! I have clients (one being my parents) house we built over 5 years ago now with zero drywall cracks
I'd love a tool safety refresher - tracksaws, skill saws, etc.
Blower door test will show the air flow through the conduits that extend from the interior boxes beyond your air control layer. Perhaps they are planning on sealing those conduits. This will also prevent moisture/condensation where cold and warm air meet.
Being a master electrician myself whom focuses on quality and continual improvement, I'm disappointed that the conduit job is not up to par with the construction itself.
Use T-studs and you will eliminate thermal bridging. 2x8 insulated T-studs are great.
i like it, but how tight do you really need it to be? do you have a leak test video?
Would love to see the ERV setup and how it’s incorporated on this build. (I know I’m late but hey)
And how much does it cost? Keep's saying "cost effective " I'll be the Judge of that.
Would it not be better to have a fully conditioned attic space? Also, here in the west, we run our plumbing through the ceilings, walls, etc and not under the slab except in kitchen islands.
You may have answered this question. Is metal conduit required for a bardominium house?
Why can’t I find pricing on this LP weather logic air and water barrier? Are they still in business?
Romex is easier, but conduit is better. With conduit you have the ability to add/change circuits at will thru out the life of the home without disturbing structure/finishes.
Love it and like what I’m seeing might be building one in Oklahoma and hope they do as good of quality work as I see you do.
Do you design your houses if so what tool/ apps do you use im in the process of designing right now im gonna build mine myself in summer 2028
Just curious, what was his rationale behind using conduit? What advantage does that provide?
Hey, how can you be on TH-cam when I saw you and Greggy boy at JLC live in providence today.
You look like his daddy.😅
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How much lower is the ceiling going to be in the jack and jill bathroom to accommodate the vent fan?
Some kind of heat recovery system could be a part of the bathroom venting.
Usta çivi tabancası çekilişi yaparmisin😂
Isn’t that why zip-R is so appealing. Since there is essentially zero thermal bridging? I don’t know just my thought based on other videos.
Agree
cant believe the electrician is using the conduit as a ground. if this was my house i would be pissed
I think your ceiling fan in the bathroom will work great.
Have been seeing more exterior insulation, it is even being found in building codes. many new issues.
Great video. I like conduit, but I’m old and cranky 😂
I HOPE this the Right Show. But installing Buried conduct at Your House was a Nightmare. First of All when You install Buried Conduct it Goes to Point A to Point B. Meaning the Conduct is sealed at Both Ends into the Fixtures meaning the Switchboxes is the termination for Point A and Point B. Then You pull the Cable through the Buried Conduct from Point A and Point B. That Mean all of the Electical wire is in the Conduct and none is Exposed to the Ground or outside the Conduct as You did. I don't understand why the Elecitical Inspection didn't Fail You. If You were in My Area or America the Electrical Conduct would have Failed. When Running Conduct No parts of that Wire is Exposed to the Outside the Conduct. You may be a Good Framer but You are No Electrical contractor. I would have FIRED YOU THE FIRST TIME I LOOKED AT YOUR WORK.
Close cell spray foam and fiberglass insulation is the best way to
Question: What are the pros and cons to tying the bathroom vent into the ERV vs. venting to outside?
conduit rough-in for residential construction is SOOOOOO much more expensive and typically NOT feasible for most customers to afford. Your builds are also NOT a typical affordability level for most (90%) of potential customer base. Love your construction... just not typically affordable
How can you keep all the 2x6 purlins flat in an 8' section
What’s the purpose of all the electric in EMT? Is that local code?
I don't get any credit? I mean you pointed to the very lights that I installed.
Great explaining Kyle looking forward to the progression. Gonna be nice when you guys get back inside for the finishing details after the other trades do their thing
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lol the metal conduit has to be the most over kill thing ive seen on a residential house.
Hey man ask your electricians to fill every conduit connector with duct seal in the boxes to absolutely seal that up
You only need duct seal for conduit going through the air control membrane. Most of the conduit just runs on the inside so there's no point sealing a tube where both ends go to the same space.
Would of enjoyed the complete electrical in stall🤔
Do Aero Barrier. Seal up all those little leaks you don't see.
Fantastic details, Kyle! Awesome as always!
You can't do cash with Northone Cash is king :)
Can you build me a house? How do I book you to build me a house?
Thank you for taking the time to make this video
Wow thanks for the great content can't wait to see the blower door test and that type of thing awesome build always good content thank you
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Conduit is a far superior install.
Can we get a nm wire wiring detail video?
Imagine having to run all that steel conduit. Every fitting, every bend, every box.
It's worth the initial hassle and cost. Down the road updates, modifications, remodels, and repairs are all easier with that existing raceway.
Love your videos, I learn a ton and you and Greg always do high quality work.
I personally would not want a house that is this airtight in 99% of cases (but absolutely see the value for those that want it).
I live as “off-grid” as I possibly can in the mountains in Colorado and an ERV or HRV requirement to me means more moving parts and greater potential for another point of failure (I’m well aware that you can take this logic to an extreme on either end).
I heat my home with a wood stove (and do have a HEPA filter running as a precaution… but it’s not necessary to make the home function). That on its own is a reason I wouldn’t want an airtight home for myself.
All that to say: You guys do awesome work and I learn a ton from you. You just said you wouldn’t understand why someone wouldn’t want an airtight home. I guess I figured I’d give you my reasons. I may be entirely wrong in my thinking , who knows? But there are some instances I can think of where simplicity and a little bit of “leaking air” might not be the worst thing.
Keep up the awesome work! I do 100% agree that post frame is one of the best ways to build though!
You should see if implementing one of Siga's new boots around those electrical penetrations that the electrician taped helps vs. just the tape. Do a tape vs. boot air leakage test.
As an electrician I really appreciate you covering some of the electrical! I was very curious how a house like this would be roughed in! Thank you.