ARRMA 6s "Shock Set up" how to demo, rebuild tips with M2C ZRS upgrade option...
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2024
- This is an overview of M2C Racing's awesome direct fit shock upgrade option with simple, how-to shock building tips and tuning. After weeks of testing and experimenting, I went from initially skeptic to hardcore believer. These bladderless shock caps and O ring pistons completely transformed my Kraton and Outcast 6s. Planted, Killer handling, and less bounce. Hats off to Mitch Looper for another great upgrade option.
Huge props to Mitch Looper for another Killer upgrade option 👀. I had serious doubts until I started field testing this simple conversion 🤯. FYI, regardless of final product piston colors, remember the 1.5 goes in back and 1.3 up front 👌. Here's the link to the kit. 🍻m2cracing.net/43-kraton
Rich, I'm confused, on my set the white pistons are 1.3 and the black ones are 1.5, so I'm putting the white in the front
@@Crewchief227 I knew this would happen 😱🤣🤣. Mitch swapped the colors on me 👀. 1.3 in front and 1.5 goes in back. 😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 Already done! Check the form under builds!🤘
what shock oil weight have you found works best with this set up? 80wt or 90wt?
@@Vlogsgrwmpranks I tailored the hole sizes to work best with stock 80 weight (what I'm still running) for simplicity. Feel free to experiment though. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Not to sound like a broken record. But people like you make this hobby way more enjoyable. It really is a pleasure to have people like you RCdude81 Kevin Talbot and the list goes on for people that are helping people like myself learn and everyone else. And for that I tip my hat to all of you for taking time out of your life to help others.
THANK YOU FROM ALL OF THE RC WORLD RICH!!!!!!!
Thanks so much Brother 😊!!!! I hope this vid helps people who are newer to this wonderful hobby 👍. It's understandable that some feel intimidated or uncertain about certain repairs and maintenance tasks. I know I've learned a ton thanks to others people's tips and uploads and I'm grateful 😉👍👍😎💪👊👊
Hey Rich, I think we would all love to see more bench videos. You have so much knowledge on these cars. Thanks for the video 👍👍
Thanks so much Chad 😊!!!! I'm hoping to do more bench stuff as time allows 👍. I enjoy watching others tech vids myself 👀. This is a great medium to share and exchange tips and tricks. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Priceless info. I just got back into the hobby after 17 years, and this is just what I needed after picking up a Kraton 6s. Thank you for this vid.
You bet Brother 👊. Welcome back to the hobby 🤗. I had a 20+ year layoff myself. The speed and advances got me back in for good 🍻😎💪👊👊
Thanks for your time Rich , I have learned a lot about wrenching and real useful upgrades for my arrmas .Shout out to M2C Racing for all the great upgrades they produce for our RC's !!!
You bet Brother 👊!!!! Mitch is on fire with all these AWESOME upgrades 😱. Hope guys find this upload helpful 👌👌😎💪👊👊
First I want to say that this is really a huge upgrade! I also bought these and put them on my Talion v4.
But one thing I realized was that only tighten the cap by hand and then give it another quarter with the wrench wasn't enough. All shocks were leaking. Once I did hold the shock body with another wrench the cap tightens up almost another round. Since then no leaking anymore. But absolutely awesome setup!
André Heller I’m glad I saw this before I did the upgrade and knew you had to do that.I definitely needed to crank down the caps using two wrenches also during my install like you mentioned..i even noticed after my first run they were still leaking,so I took them off and REALLY cranked down on them and now I have no leakage....it took WAY more force to get the o rings to seal than I would’ve thought....It’s definitely an awesome upgrade!love the performance
Thank you so much Rich for taking time to show everyone the proper way to do this by doing a video so everyone will know how to do it... So much props to you man always always enjoy your videos learned so much from you over the years thanks again man.....
You bet Jeremy 😊!!!! Really appreciate the nice comment Brother 👊. Happy bashing as always. 🍻🤘🤘😎💪👊👊
Dude thank you so much for making this video! I just got my M2C ZRS kit in the other day and I almost forgot about this tutorial. This will be my first time opening my shocks up so this guide already has been a big help with making me more confident in what I'm about to do. You're the best, Rich. A big part of why I got my Kraton and my M2C goodies for it is your videos. Keep doing what you're doing, the knowledge you share with the community is so helpful its hard to express how grateful I am. Best wishes bro.
Thanks so much Brother 🤗. You're gonna love the ZRS bladderless set-up 😍🍻😎💪👊👊
Great vid man, super informative.
I don't even have my Kraton yet, just trying to learn as much as I can beforehand 🎯⚒️
Great info brother👍👍🤘🤘 I too would not believe it if I did not see your video. May have to pick up a set. Funny enough I was running my v2 Kraton and saying the same thing about the bounce on landings and the rebound of the shocks. Keep these kind of videos coming 👍👍👊👊👌👌🤘🤘
One thing I have tried is a thin wrap of insulation tape around the shock body, it stops the spring from binding on the threads, also protects the thread and anodising from the constant barrage of rocks and crap they are subjected to. Nice tutorial Rich, killer work as always.
Thanks so much Brother 😊!!!! That's a Killer idea 👀. The Tekno rod ends with locking spring purches seem to center the springs better with less rub or binding on the threads also 👍. I'd like to find a beefier shock boot. 🍻😎💪👊👊
These definitely help the truck settle after landing a big jump. Nice job M2C!
I know this is an older video, but still came in very handy for me. Thanks bubba!
Thanks Rob 🤗. I put a ton of man hours into testing and refining the piston tuning 👌. Really appreciate that Brother. Planning to use the ZRS set-up on my latest 1/7 build. Absolutely love it. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Thanks for all the videos you’ve made. Pretty new to RC. I have a rustler vxl and a typhon mega(now brushless). I just purchased a kraton 6s exb. It was built and never driven. I couldn’t pass up the deal basically brand new with all electronics for $375. Got a lot to learn so I won’t be going crazy with the kraton like I do my rustler.
You bet David 🤗. Congrats on your new K6s EXB 😱!!! What a screaming deal. Pretty sure you'll love it my friend. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Awesome tutorial on the shock caps Rich!👊Looks like a great upgrade! Nice of you to take the time to explain everything step by step👌I may slowly go that route. Not having much of a problem with stock once I stepped up the oils to 90 weight and using the mighty Nero ends but I can see how this is a definite improvement overall! Good tip on the green slime! Entertaining and informative vid my friend!😎💪🤘🤘🍻
Thanks so much Eric 😜!!!! This really is a great upgrade Brother 👌. I was very skeptical going into the testing process 🤔. After my first 5 minutes bashing, I realized the handling was way better than I expected 👀. After 2-3 bashes, I was 100% convinced this was a solid upgrade option 👍. From there it was just deciding on the ideal piston sizes overall 😱. It's nice not getting bucked if you case a gap jump or simply have a rough landing. Hopefully this vid will help guys newer to the hobby feel more comfortable servicing and rebuilding their shocks and getting their droop set correctly 👍👍😎💪👊👊
Do you have to use different pivot balls if you use the Nero ends?
Great detailed walk through! These shock caps look to be the ticket 👌👍
Thanks so much Aaron 😜!!!! The caps and custom pistons make such an incredible difference 😱. Totally exceeded my expectations. Hats off to Mitch once again. 🍻👌👌😎💪👊👊
Great video Rich!
The part at the end about the dropper screws is a question I've had since I purchased my V4. Perfectly explained.
Thanks so much Jake 👊!!!! This was a bit long winded perhaps, but hopefully it'll help guys better understand how to dial in their rigs and avoid unnecessary breakages 👍👍😎💪👊👊
Helped me for sure.
Mr Duperbash. Thanks for this bro. I need all this knowhow stored up in my brain.
My Arrma adventure is just beginning.
Well bud had my first front hub break on the Granite.
I’ll be getting those GPM c hubs rear hubs and knuckles very soon. 👊😀.
Have a good one bro. 🙂👍✌️
I know this video is a few months old, but I'm confused about your preferred piston orientation. You have them set to compress more easily than rebound, which is exactly the opposite effect of the MIP Bypass1 pistons for racing. Why would increased rebound rate be better for racing, but increased compression be better for bashing?
Hi rich it's hard to tell on video but are any of the arma shocks comparable in size to the traxxas maxx shocks?
I'm not sure cuz I don't have a Maxx 🤔. I'll send you a link to an ARRMA Forum thread with loads of shock specs. You can measure your stock Maxx shocks to compare.www.arrmaforum.com/threads/important-please-read-arrma-6s-arrma-mega-4x4-blx-3s-and-blx-4s-shock-information-and-upgrades.7413/
Thanks for making this video on the shock upgrades. Even though I don’t have a Kraton, it looks like an awesome upgrade for folks who do. 👍👍
Thanks Brian 👊!!!! This upgrade will work for other models as well 👍. Mitch also has kits for Tekno and Mugen from what I understand. The pistons alone are pretty incredible 👀. He honestly should patent them. The concept is fairly genius. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash It’s amazing what a person with Mitch’s insight can come up with just by trying something different. Love it!!!
Thanks brother for this in-depth video on how to rebuild your Arrma 6s shocks! Had a killer bash session yesterday and I busted my steering block and bent my front left shock 😱 but I think thats an easy fix. Anyways, regards from FL 🤘🤘🤘🤘
Do you have shock caps for Traxxas Maxx? His damper is 20mm in diameter. I'm from Brazil.
I'm not sure if M2C makes caps for any specific Traxxas. 🤔
Great stuff, RD! Since I recently got my 6s Typhon I recalled this wrenching video to get some tips on which shock oil to choose. I felt the stock springs were a bit weak so I put on a set of ZD Racing springs which were firmer (and fit) and I'm putting in 70wt to see how she lands. For my 6s I've got the belted Badlands PRO1017410, bought the 17mm adapters to use them. I'm also officially "truggified"! Kraton hubs, hexes and out-drives from the CVD/dog bones. Jenny's sells complete hub assemblies taken from Kratons and I got a complete Kraton driveshaft kit. I figured why not have the full set in case I go even wider with longer arms in the future. lol
Have you found what aftermarket springs work with the Aarma shocks?
You mentioned Tekno bottom ET410 shock mounts. Can you list some parts you use on an Aarma shock in your description. Please and thank you.
I've found the V3-V4 ARRMA spec springs to be about perfect personally 👍. Tekno and Turnigy truggy springs fit fine as well. The rod ends I recommend most are the ARRMA HD Nero ones. AR330409. Tekno's are TKR6140B. You need 6.8mm steel pivot balls for either one. Both the Arrma or Tekno balls will do. 😎💪👊👊
Excellent video, Rich 😎👍 I'll be ordering some of these caps from Mitch.
Thanks so much Ed 😊!!!! I'm glad Eric tagged you Brother 😂. I'd love to hear about your other interests. 🍻👀🤘🤘😎💪👊👊
Great video man thank you for all you do. Question for you I have the version 4 kraton 6s but upgraded to the version 5 shocks but not the exb and I see that on m2c racing they have two different kits for the bladderless shock upgrades one for the version 4 shocks and one for the version 5 and exb shocks. If I have the version 5 shocks do I need the version 5 kit (im assuming) what has changed between the version 4 shocks and version 5 shocks because I have them both and they look identical unless the Pistons are different thanks
Thanks so much Brother 👊. The reason M2C offers a V4 and V5 option is Mitch thought he found a slight difference in the thread diameter with the V5 shocks and didn't want guys stripping out caps or shock bodies. I think he made the V5 caps with slightly more tolerance, but I'm not certain. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Hey Rich I cant figure out how to get these m2c caps not to leak few leak few dont hand tighten then I've tried qtr turn half n 3 quarters all seem to leak??
That's not good 🤔. Make sure the seals look ok. Might want to try some Green Slime or O ring grease on them. I haven't had to, but it's worth a shot. Also, make sure you're not getting leakage from the the bleeder screws. I later found I had to get a solid turn on them with a quality bit. If you think the seals are the problem, reach out to Mitch at M2C. I'm sure he'd send you replacements. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Hey Rich great video. I have a Kraton 6s V1 ... I know I should upgrade but do these M2C shock caps work on the V1 shocks? Of not what's a good shock upgrade from V1. I've purchased the V4 springs front and back just waiting on the mail.
Hey sir, what shockspring did you use... looking for some strong ones
I run stock springs on my ARRMA's. Tekno springs are also an option and VG Racing.
@@richduperbash2966 preciate it😊 thanks 🤘
Great review/instruction video. Subbed earned 👍🏻
Thanks Brother 👊!!!! Much appreciated 🍻😎💪👊👊
It's clear and precise your explanations. 👍
You are a reference in this hobby. 😊 😎 👍
Thank you for this beautiful video. 👍 Yvan 😊
Thanks so much Yvan 😊!!!! Truly appreciate it Brother. 🍻👍👍😎💪👊👊
Love the system, well tought !!!
Those are my next upgrade Thanks for the tips
You bet Stephane 😊!!!! I'm stoked to have this option 👌. No more violent after bounce and Crazy hops. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Hi Rich, another killer vid!! Where can I find that Bones Motorsports 100% pure silicone shock oil! I went to there website and could not find it for the life of me.
Hello Rich, when u rebuild the shock should it come back out on its own or need we pull it down without the spring attached🤔 this had me stumped
With a typical bladder style shock yes 👍. A bladderless set-up like this, don't expect any rebound without the spring doing the work. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Nice upgrade brother. She is a beast. Shocks look beefy. Great info👍👍👊👊👊😀😀
Thanks so much Kenny 😊. This simple upgrade packs a punch 👊. Really appreciate it Brother. 👍👍😎💪👊👊
They look very cool Rich 👀 You guys are coming up with some off tap ideas 💡Man those Launches 🚀 at the gravel pit are Efing massive dude 😵 Full on 🤙🏼
Thanks so much Cam 😜!!!! These caps and pistons make an incredible difference in handling and bounce control 👌. I'm cringing to get back to the pit. We're planning to build some ramps and dial the terrain in hopefully soon. Are schedules conflict unfortunately. 🍻🤘🤘😎💪👊👊
Hi Rich thanks for all the great content and information. I have an aftermarket Talion v4 issue I was wondering if you had any thoughts on. I use the tekno rod ends and spring perch because I love how they retain each other and make it virtually impossible to lose a perch or spring. Issue on the Talion is it uses a little 6mm spacer between the rod end and perch. You can't use this with the tekno rod ends and as such with stock springs it's impossible to maintain ride height where I want it. It's kind of a pita to find front springs for the Talion. Do you think using longer tekno orange springs with a little preload will help? Thanks for any input.
How did I miss this video 🤪 how dare me lol, 🤣 well Rich all am saying is Thanks for sharing your how to Build Video, learning all the time 👍 Fantastic Tips ,that's why your the Man Who can , great video bro 👍😁👍
Thanks so much Tony 🤗!!!! Testing these was fairly time consuming, but I'm confident now I got the ideal piston size sorted to make guys happy overall 👍. Hopefully this vid will prove helpful . It's a very easy upgrade but makes a HUGE difference. Happy bashing as always Brother!!!! 🍻🤘🤘😎💪👊👊
Rich what's the part number for the tekno pivot balls u use with the Nero rod ends
www.advantagehobby.com/237863/TKRTKR5049A/Pivot-Ball-68mmSway-BarShock-End-EB4-4/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwhdTqBRDNARIsABsOl9-XdItJYjhnqBk5UrcZCEhuog1Vw9G-D6Low3tOejaBPtlmtaYrN-IaAkehEALw_wcB
@Rich Duperbash - if I cant find any 80wgt shock oil for my 6s KRATON whats the next best wgt to go with?
I would try 70 weight instead. 😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 will i notice a difference? Anyways, wishing you and your family a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year..
@@FLSharkdiver the shocks will have slightly faster action/rebound. That can be preferable depending on terrain, driving style, and current wheel cushion. My preference is always to experiment. That's how I get rigs dialed to my liking. Again, I tuned the production M2C pistons to stock 80 weight for simplicity. That doesn't mean it's the best weight for all applications. Merry Christmas to you too Brother 🍻
Thank you so much for the vid and information! I'm ordering a set for all four tomorrow! ❤❤👍👊💪💪actually just ordered a set 😂💪👊
Thanks so much John 🤗!!!! Sorry I'm missing lots of messages lately 👀. I think you'll really like this shock setup 👍. After the second bash, and especially running them with the firmer Backflip LP's, I realized how much difference it makes having better dampening and control particularly with harder hits. 🍻😎💪👊👊
rich im having a problem with v5 kraton and notorious 6s. When i full send it and land hard the shock over compresses causing the driveshaft to pop out. somebody recommended 1/4" of fuel tube to limit how much it compresses. have you experienced this and what would you recommend
great vide.o do you have a link for the shock tool ?
Excellent vid Rich. I just hope M2C deliver to Australia bud, cause this mod is on my list.
Thanks my friend 🤗!!!! Get in touch with Ed Morris our Australian test team brother. He's helping Mitch with M2C distribute these beautiful parts 😍. Here's the link to his page🍻😎💪👊👊facebook.com/easternrc/
@@richduperbash2966 just spoke with Ed and just purchased the shock kit from him along with a few other bits. Thanks again Rich for the excellent info.
Hey Rich great video. I was wondering do you use 80wt front and back?
Thanks so much David 🤗. Yes I normally run 80 weight front and rear. Feel free to experiment, but I tuned the piston hole sizes to work well with stock 80 weight/1000cst. 🍻😎💪👊👊
I recently bought this kit for the exb 6s , what weight would you use in the exb ?
fill the cap with oil before you put it on, bit tricky but if you bleed the shock properly itll be even better...
Do you run the 80 weight oil on all 4 corners? And also would you run the same thing in the typhon
Awesome video mate love that upgrade looks like more money but definitely worth it 🤘🤘🤘
Thanks so much Dean 😊!!! The difference from stock is very noticeable 👌. Way smoother, more forgiving, and better all around handling 🤘🤘😎💪👊👊
great informative video! thanks for all you do brother..
Thanks so much Philip 😊!!!! Hope it proves helpful. Lots of guys newer to the hobby with questions. Much appreciated Brother 👊. Nice work with Orange Crush by the way 👀😱😱😱. I knew you'd push the Limitless to the max 👍👍😎💪👊👊
Awesome tips Rich, thanks for sharing ur knowledge brotha!
Thanks so much Stevo 🤗!!!! Really appreciate it Brother. 🍻👍👍😎💪👊👊
Nice informative video Rich!!! You mention rod ends NT410?? And In your experience which is the best shock oil for a basher?👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Brother 👊!!! Sorry I missed your message 👀. I use Team Associated Factory oils and TLR sometimes.. The ARRMA Nero HD rod ends are the beefiest. Just need 6.8mm steel pivot balls. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Nice upgrade. Do you have a link or part nr for the shock cap upgrade ?
Thanks Brother 👊!!!! Just pinned the link above. 🍻😎💪👊👊. www.m2cracing.com/product.sc;jsessionid=873C50F4F60B4D594881207147B893DD.p3plqscsfapp006?productId=981&categoryId=123
Thoughts on shock oil weight if you have the stock bladder? And which stock pistons do you suggest, since there are some extras included.
I honestly like the stock oils ARRMA uses for their rigs from the factory. That varies between the Typhon, Kraton/Outcast, and Talion with each of those having progressively heavier fluids. The extra pistons are usually 1.4mm for the rear and 1.2mm for the front which is standard from ARRMA. 🍻👍👍😎💪👊👊
Exactly what a was looking for, thank you sir :)
My kraton squeaks like that also, have you figured out what it us or just not bothered?
The squeaking is either the pillow balls in the hubs or the hinge pins. It's no biggie. Clean with WD-40 and it's gone. 😎💪👊👊
Yo, I used a pipe cleaner to clean out my arms, cleaned off the hinge pins, then lubed them with krytech. No more squeak.
@@OlExtraRegularBass thanks for the tip Brother 👊. I do something very similar. Keeps things moving nicely. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Hey rich. So i recieved the “arrma nero HD shock rod end set.. (AR330409) but realised the bushing for stock has alot of play in the new HD rod ends.. i found a bushing that fits good in the shock rod end but now the locking pin has play in the bushing.. is there something you ordered aswell to take the play out? Or just ran it with play? Thank you
Hey Brother 👊. You want to pair the HD rod ends with 6.8mm steel pivot balls. My favorite are the older ARRMA ones. Not sure on the part # 🤔. I also use Tekno ones with great success. Here's a link to them. 😎💪👊👊www.amazon.com/TEKNO-TKR5049A-Pivot-Balls-6-8mm/dp/B00DVNIG86
Great how to video, what is that plastic that goes across you body posts? Thanks
Thanks my friend 👊!!!! That's just thick lexan sheeting from my LHS I cut to support my failing body. I forgot the brand 🤔. It stops the body posts from pushing up through the body. It's actually not a bad idea to use to prevent damage too. 😎💪👊👊
Hey Rich. Is it normal to have the rear suspension a lot stiffer with this setup as mine is quite stiff in the rear now. Front seems normal with a slower release but the rear is heaps different. I set them exactly in your vid.
I did the same and ended up swapping the pistons. Much softer in the rear now but I still cant get the front the way he had his😔. The rebound is too slow.
Ryan Boucher I changed mine around too and it’s heaps better and it’s meant to rebound slower bud. It reduces the springiness in big landings so the truck stays planted. They work great. I’m really happy with my set up now.
Nice vid. We need more seat time vids
Rich.
As we all know sometimes our main rig takes a hard landing and needs to "rest". I have a V4 Kraton and I'm looking to pick up a backup rig. If the kraton was your only rig what would you pick up for a backup rig?
I've considered just getting another Kraton. That way I would have spare parts but I'd like to expand my lineup.
There's nothing wrong having 2 Kraton's 😍 but I'd spice it up with some variety. If you don't have an Outcast/Notorious, I'd grab one. Much more acrobatic and challenging. Still one of my top favorite RCs of all time. 😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 Thanks for the reply. My local shop has a outcast on display. Everytime I go there I drool over it.
I'll do some research on it and let you know what I decide. Thanks again and keep up with the great videos.
@@richduperbash2966 Well, I did it. Pulled the trigger yesterday and picked up a Gray Outcast V3. It's a beautiful truck for sure!
Rich I noticed that you have a modified center tower on your Outcast. Is that something I should do on my V3 or was that just necessary for the V1?
Thanks again for the great videos. I'm going to be picking up a new GoPro as well and start making some videos.
Awesome man, this helped heaps! Been meaning to subscribe to your channel, will do now 👍 cant wait until my EXB arrives so I can really start bashing like you sky high guys👌🤘
Thanks so much Brother 😜. Not sure why I keep missing messages 👀. Enjoy that EXB 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 All good mate😁 ill enjoy the EXB im sure👍🤘
Do you know if there is a tekno shock body that directly fits. I hate the red shock bodies. I stripped mine but the inside of the shock is no longer smooth. Just wondering. Love the videos.
I'm not sure if the Tekno bodies themselves are a direct fit, however tons of guys have drilled out the towers to accept Tekno standoffs and shocks on their ARRMA's 👍. Mitch definitely offers ZRS caps and pistons for the Tekno shocks. 😎💪👊👊
Hey Rich, what springs do yo recomend for a kraton 6s with all the m2c upgrades?
I still run stock spec springs with my preload collars dialed to have arms level when she's fully loaded. Too stiff leads to poor performance and overall handling. Still want relatively easy chassis slap. 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 thanks man
Sweet video with lot's of good detail, thanks rich! Are those the stock v4 springs? my v3 outcast springs are really soft, way too soft. Happy new year buddy!
Thanks Jakob 👊!!!! Yes I'm running stock springs. These pistons and set up change the dampening dramatically. 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 I could see that after watching the comparison a few time, much more smooth ey. I still don't understand what the bladder actually does. Anyway I live in Denmark so shipping could be costly, I guess I'll get some m2c stuff in the future if i need it who knows. I think it's pretty durable for my level as long as i don't bend the chassis on the concrete stairs in the skatepark, like the other day :O ouch!
Rich how are you doing buddy? I hope you and the family had a wonderful 4th of July. I had a question do you have a video showing how to install the M2C Shock Tower Stand Off Kit? I am slowly starting my build from the EXB to the M2C Chassis and components. The shock stand off kit and the rear hinge pin kit is what I am looking to install next. So looking for install videos and thought you may have done one just cant find it. Also would you think I need to rebuild my shocks before doing the ZRS upgrade if I have not run the EXB yet?
Hey Donnie 👍. The M2C shock standoff is a breeze to install. Biggest detail is simply drilling the existing tower holes from 3mm to 4mm. Pretty sure Mitch includes a 4mm drill bit. The new standoffs are one solid piece of hardened steel that simply bolts up with the M4 locknut. You could reuse the stock oil for the ZRS shock setup, but you need extra to top off the levels with the bladderless set-up. Both M2C Racing and 3 Son's RC have lots of how to vids. 😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 Rich thanks I couldn't figure out who had the video of it was 3 Sons or you.
Yeah it looks pretty simple the issue that I am contemplating with right now is there are 2 shock tower holes they you could mount the shock tower to correct?
It's picking one just a matter of personal preference?
I just was not sure if both holes were for depending which position you rented the shock tower. I didn't want to drill out the incorrect hole.
Was not sure if I just need to drill both holes so 2 per side of the shock tower brace or of it is just 1 per side.
Just FYI still haven't gotten the Kraton or OutKast in the mail from you yet, I am going with USPS is running behind again and not that you changed your mind 😜🤣😂🤪
@@DonnieKluck you could drill all the tower holes to 4mm if you want or just go with the stock shock position. It's all preference really. 🍻
Rich thanks buddy appreciate your insight as always and always kind the videos. Makes me jealous that 1 I can't hurt the ramp with precision like you and 2 can't land on anything other than my roof unlike you 🤣.
So I assume the stock tower position is inner most hole that is lower on the shock tower correct?
@@DonnieKluck no problem Brother 👊. The stock hole position is normally in the center. With newer 6s EXB geometry in the rear, it's the upper or highest position hole. 🍻
Hi Rich, I just switched to the M2C ZS shocks and wanted to know if it’s normal for the fronts to rebound slower than the back shocks? Thank you
Hey Nick. Yes it's normal for the fronts to rebound slower than the rear. Fronts have 1.3mm piston holes and rear have 1.5mm if I recall correctly. You can always go up with the shock oil weight to tweak the dampening, but stock 80 weight (1000cst) is a good starting point. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Awesome tutorial on this M2C bladderless shock caps Rich. based on your testing I can already tell this is gonna be an awesome upgrades. Liking this LP backflip tires on the Kraton bro. How they do on the Kraton man? It's killer on my Talion, Kraton 4S and 10th scale Outcast hybrid. Love your bench video brother. Very informative tons of great tips. Always enjoy it very much.
Thanks so much Chris 👊!!!! The M2C setup is way less bouncy and better handling overall👌. It was tough making the final call on the piston size but feeling confident about it now. Hoping this vid will help some guys feel more comfortable about doing maintenance 👍. I absolutely LOVE the Backflip LP's 😍. Literally just snuck another evening construction site bash in with them. Appreciate the kind words Brother 👊!!!! 🍻🤘🤘😎💪👊👊
Nice stuff. I need to bash more. These work with v2 shafts or they the 4mm shafts.
Thanks Brother 👊!!!! These really are designed for the V3-V4 4mm shocks. The pistons might work, but you need the newer standoffs and plastics to fit the caps without fudging it. 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 ok thanks. Just will upgrade the whole shocks then. Glad to known 4mm is better anyway.
@@RCPropaganda the V3-V4 shocks are a massive improvement for durability and the spec springs 👌. Jenny's RC is the best I found. Like 50$ for all 4. 👍
Is it normal for dampers to work with internal pressure? Many people, when closing the caps, pump the pistons to bleed a little oil. At 11:18 it seems to me that you tightened the screw to give pressure with the bar pushed. I think that in this way the tendency is not to rebound, as the pistons will look for the same pressure position when the screw was tightened. The way I install it, the pistons return downwards. Do you know what is the best setting for high jumps?
I think you were asking about bladders working with internal pressure 🤔. Yes, most bladders have air underneath them that exerts a rebound pressure towards the piston as the piston rises in the shock chamber. These ZRS bladderless caps are emulsion style with oil and air mixing. That step at 11:18 helps limit the amount of air in the mixture before tightening the bleeder screw and seating it. This set-up has remarkably improved dampening with less afterbounce than the stock bladder system. Only the springs provide the rebound.🍻😎💪👊👊
hey Rich, heard you say the Arrma HD's are stronger than the Tekno's, can you clarify? I was about to order the Tekno ends and pillow balls, but haven't read or heard about the HD ends. Part number for the hd ends, and what brand is the green slime? Also is this a good upgrade for the Typhon
AR330409 is for the HD rod ends. It pairs with 6.8mm steel pivot balls just like the Tekno rod ends, but they're much beefier. Pretty tight fit on the Typhon platform. Green Slime is made by Team Associated 😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 as always Rich, much appreciated!! I'll get the 330409/s ordered instead of the Tekno's, but I still use the Tekno 6.8 pivot balls correct TKR5049A? and can I use this on my Typhon as well
@@bluedeval03 yes indeed on the Tekno 6.8mm balls. I use those or the V1-V2 Arrma balls. Both work great. The HD ends will fit on the Typhon. Just a snugger fit in the arms with a beefier spring purch. 🍻
@@richduperbash2966 alright alright alright....
Wanna thank you for the shock tutorial. also want thank you for the heads up on the set screw on the Aarms, to save my shocks from bottoming out. I have the newest senton 6s and was wondering if you have any tips on any part of my rig to better or stay the same?
You're most welcome Brother 👊!!!! Congrats on the Senton 6s 😱. That's the only 6s I haven't owned 👀. Wanted to buy my neighbors, but he isn't ready to let it go despite having zero free time to actually go bashing 🤣. What you do to your rig really depends on preference and driving style. I'd upgrade parts as you see fit. Definitely throw on aluminum chassis supports and servo mount if you break the stockers or have excessive servo flex. You could always advance the punch, the pinion size, tune the diffs and shocks to experiment and find what you like. The Senton has a distinct durability advantage with the SCT body shell and bumper design. The stock electronics are plenty IMO especially on 6s. 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 thank you! I love it it's a blast! She is a beast. Can't wait to see you with one. As for those suggested upgrades on my to do list for sure on a budget so I have to squeeze one in at a time. Thanks again. I really enjoy your bash videos you and dude81 are beasts when it comes to bashing. Arrma 4 life.. thanks again!
💀🤘🤘👍👍👏🍻
link doesn't work anymore? Are the Kraton ones not available anymore? After looking on M2C's site not sure which are the proper ones.
Mitch redid his entire web site several weeks back. Let me change the link. Pistons should still be available. 😎💪👊👊m2cracing.net/43-kraton
@@richduperbash2966 I appreciate the quick reply Rich. Thanks for clearing this up for me.
Great info brother! Building shocks can be a pain lol
Thanks Brother 👊!!!! Yes it can be like a chore sometimes, but it's so nice getting them dialed 😍👍👍😎💪👊👊
#RichDuperbash I am getting ready to place an order for Mitch's shock caps for my 6s Notorious stun truck, do I also need to grab his M2C 3025 ARRMA DELRIN PILLAR BALL RETAINER BUSHINGS as well? Or do I just need the M2C 3075 ARRMA 16 MM ZRS SHOCK CAPS AND ORING SHOCK PISTONS kit for less rebound on my landings?
Sorry I missed your message Brother 😱. You don't need the M2C pillow ball retainer nuts/bushings, but they're a wonderful upgrade. The nuts stay put and the Delrin inserts are stronger and smoother than stock. 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 thanks for the video on helping me get these shock caps from Mitch installed brother! Can't wait to test them out today on my Custom RC Ramp! 💪 💪 👊 👊
Why do you recommend a different shock end? The one you recommended is plastic also right?
This is an older video. ARRMA use to have weaker shock rod ends on their 6s rigs. Now they're all HD style with much more plastic 💪
@@richduperbash2966 oh okay thanks for clarifying 👍
You bet Brother 👊. Thank goodness for the progression. ARRMA listens to basher feedback and improves each model over time. Not many manufacturers do that.
@@richduperbash2966 Am I the only one hoping they make a typhon 8s? 😅
Not sure if this is correct. M2c website is saying 1.3 white is for front and you are saying is for the rear. So which one is it?
Blame the mix-up on Mitch 🤣. He switched the colors around from the test pistons I was working with. I told him it would cause confusion 😝. Please read my pinned comments at the top of my vids. I often clarify stuff in them such as this very subject. 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 great thanks. I just installed mine
thank again for the videos will be doing this soon.. as for motor and esc upgrade what do you prefer for power
You bet Brian 👍!!!! I really do like this Max8 and Hobbystar 1730kv 4092 setup 💪. It's got gobs of power and torque. The motor definitely adds some weight, but the benefits are worth it IMO. There's nothing wrong with the stock system. I just like the added torque to blast off jumps and clear gaps with limited run up space. 😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 what pinon should i pair wit it
@@opinions551 I run a 20T. Somewhere between 18-20 works well 👍
14:53 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 "Oh yeah baby, yes yes"
"That's what I'm talkin about right there, guys" lol 😉
@@crimsonfancy LMAO 🤣🤣🤣!!!!!
HAHAHA!!!
Nice job on video bro... piston look badass
Thanks so much Bro👊!!!! I was proven wrong once again with this setup 😉. Went from skeptic to believer. The pistons are legit 👍👍😎💪👊👊
can we can get an update on these emulsions? i'm about to tear down all of my basher shocks and rebuild.
They're AWESOME 😍. Completely changes the ride and they're simpler to service than stock 👌. No harsh bounce on landings. Much more plush and planted. Mitch's O ring style pistons truly make an incredible difference in the stroke. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Excellent! Thank you 👍
I'm really surprised you dont have way more subs.
Do the m2c shock pistons come with the shock caps or are they separate?
You can buy the complete ZRS kit. Includes everything. Go to the M2C Racing website. m2cracing.net/arrma/383-m2c-3075-arrma-16-mm-zrs-shock-caps-and-oring-shock-pistons.html
@@richduperbash2966 awesome man thanks a lot!
AWSM brother as ALLWAYS ❤❤❤. Makes me think why AE left this, they ben running it for decades, and went Bladder. I think its a personal setting. I run blader today, and to vs them to a Arrma shock aint even gonna happen, such a big sifference..i think you and Mich are on the only Path for ARRMA Dampers to work good. ( will they fit my siren ) ❤❤❤
Love it..AWSM Brother..again, superb how to ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤. M2C for stock shocks seems as a must if ya wanna go big..or bash hard 🤗
This is one of the mainreasons all AE cars needed the few laps bef a race back in the days.....Air and oil Mixed. Again Brother..this might be the Key to get the Arrna shocks working.
@@TpPartsRcXtreme thanks so much dear Brother 😍!!!! I had serious doubts until I tried bashing them 👀. So much more planted and better handling overall 👌. Mitch has really stepped up and improved these rigs potential 🍻. So awesome to see it become a reality. 🤘🤘😎💪👊👊
great tutorial thanks for sharing
To attach those to your offsets do you still need that Plastic sleeve that slides into the top cap
Yes indeed 👍. You can swap on the stock plastic pivot ball/sleeve or upgrade to the M2C Delrin ones.🍻😎💪👊👊
Hi there , I think I need to take your advice and order a shock tool. The shafts just spin when tightening . Do you think a shock tool could help tightening the wriggler nuts in the m2c hinge pin kit. The shaft spins and I cant get the nuts on well . Thx
Definitely get a shock tool Jordan 🤗. Makes building shocks and pulling rod ends off WAY easier without marring the shafts. The M2C locking hinge pin nuts can be tightened from each side simultaneously. It's a bit trickier on the B block, but you can use a small fixed wrench. 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 Hi Rich, ok I bought the tekno shock tool. It really helps, thanks . I installed the shock caps and pistons exactly as you demonstrated . My pistons are properly installed ,small holes underneath . !.5m inthe rear , 1.3 in front. My problem is the front just pops back up after compressing the shock. In the rear you really see the dampening . Besides the things Ive mentioned are there any other things that could lessen the dampening . Like in your video you see the dampening effect when you compressed the front shock. Sorry for the long question . Peace, Thx
6hrs later: Lol ! Ive rebuilt my shocks 3x but I think I found my problem. I feel dumb but It was my preload. Lol. Now that I lessened the preload I can see the dampening effect. Thx buddy. Peace ✌️
Is there any good upgrade to make the shock shaft or upgrade that is more durable because I haven’t even gotten through a battery pack without my Keaton breaking and I only jumped it 5 times about 6ft in the air, than I spent $400 in diffs and it still doesn’t work properly and my shock shaft broke when I “jumped” it down a curb.
That's very unusual 👀. I completely hammer on the V3-V4 4mm shafts regularly and rarely have an issue 🤔. The stock rod ends are fairly weak. Best upgrade is the ARRMA HD Nero rod ends plus 6.8mm steel pivot balls. They're super beefy and very difficult to stretch or break. Just set your droop so the rod ends and shafts aren't being tugged on at full extension. The diffs shouldn't be failing regularly. Gears wear over time ofcoarse, but just shimming them and trying not to land on throttle goes a long ways. I posted a couple diff vids about shimming/tips awhile back. 😎💪👊👊
Rich Duperbash I have aluminum rod ends, do you think instead of the plastic end snapping it caused too much stress on the shaft and just snapped it🤨? And do you have the part number for the pivot ball or which ones I should get and what oils should I run with stock springs 🤘Once again thank for the help👍👍😎👊
@@matthewfojtik994 I definitely think the metal rod ends simply transfer energy instead of helping absorb it. AR330409 is the # for the HD rod ends. You can use the older V1-V2 6.8mm pivot balls or grab some Tekno ones. I recommend stock 80 weight with both stock or the M2C pistons. www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-rc-aluminum-6.8mm-pivot-ball-set-4-tkr5049a/p231724
Rich Duperbash thank you for the help👊👍
@@matthewfojtik994 no problem Brother 👊
How do you know when you need to do shock maintenance? Or how often do you just do it!
Usually I can tell a difference in performance. The shocks just don't feel as dialed or the crisp handling starts to change. When to service them is a personal thing. Depends on how much and what kind of driving you do 🤔. Eventually most get some level of dirt infiltration or oil degradation. Often the change in performance is too subtle or gradual to notice easily. For harder bashing in really dusty conditions, every 20+ packs is probably a decent guage to do maintenance. 😎💪👊👊
Awesome thx!!
Awsome do u have a link for the bladerless parts?
Here's the link to the ZRS setup 👍. Don't forget to use the "m2ccoupon" code for some savings. PS, Mitch switched the colors for the production pistons 😱. 1.5mm goes in back, 1.3mm up front. m2cracing.net/arrma/383-m2c-3075-arrma-16-mm-zrs-shock-caps-and-oring-shock-pistons.html
I’ve rebuilt this one shock three times and I can’t get that ring to seal the shock. I got three of them to seal and not leak but one of them keeps leaking not sure what I should do :-( I love the M2c system
I would try putting a good coat of Green Slime or other O ring grease on the rubber gasket and try using a small crescent wrench to give a light last snug (1/4 turn) on the shock cap.
I very much appreciate your videos (please keep em coming).... but the truth is that the shocks are doing nothing when you jump the thing over a few feet in the air. Those 20' high jumps bottom it out instantly.
Thanks Brother 👊!!!! The truth is you want these trucks to bottom out without too much effort. The difference is how it bottoms and how much bounce back from the shocks themselves you get afterwards. I found this setup is night and day more planted and forgiving than the stock setup. The overall handling and control is impressive. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Hello rich, can you use the conversion kit with the stock shock heads ?
Hey Chad 🤗. Sorry I missed your message. Yes you can use this with the stock standoffs....etc. The ZRS kit is a direct fit. The pistons alone make a noticable difference in dampening, but work best in conjunction with the bladderless, emulsion style caps. 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966Thanks, Ill be getting some soon then !
Bladderless... Neat idea, but why not just go emulsion and be done with it? Seems like an over-complication (or under?) of an existing, proven technology, but I know you guys have your reasons.. why "bladderless" instead of emulsion?? I'm genuinely curious to know Rich! Great vid as always, I'd love to see more "Rich DuperBENCH" videos with some tech tips and new parts, maybe some sneak peeks ;)
Thanks so much Brother 👊!!!! This M2C ZRS setup is an emulsion style 👍. Any RC shock that doesn't have a bladder is going to mix air and oil once the piston starts pumping. This set up is unique with Mitch's O ring slotted pistons though. It's a simple way to transform the stock shocks. 🍻👍👍😎💪👊👊
Are you running stock springs?
Yes indeed Matt 👍. Very happy with stock V3-V5 springs. 😎💪👊👊
I just got this kit and my white pistons were 1.3 and my black pistons were 1.5. The 1.5 would go in the rear correct?
Yes indeed 🤗. For some reason switched the colors for the production pistons 👀😎💪👊👊
Oh man...I was wondering why the video shows white pistons in the rear and black in front (M2C description is opposite)...now I gotta redo them all...UHGH!!!!
With the stock shock, how much oil do I need? Should it be flush or not?
Can't give an exact volume, but yes you want the oil flush with the top, not rounded over with this M2C setup. The stock setup needs slight space for the bladder. 😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 okay, is about 2mm under the top fine with the stock shock?
You didn’t show how to take it apart? I can’t figure it out? I’m trying to reverse engineer what you did but I can’t?
The lower shock caps unscrew towards the shaft revealing the lower O rings and shock guide bits. Sometimes they can be difficult to unscrew by hand, but usually will with the help of a rag. It's also possible to just swap the pistons without rebuilding the shock lowers if you have a 5.5mm driver to reach the piston nut.. Just make sure to reuse the stock piston washers. 🤗
@@richduperbash2966 thank you so much for replying!
In the video he says the white ones are for the rear but on the m2c site they say front, explain me that?
Can i used these on my mojave 6s ?
The reason for the confusion is Mitch switched the colors around when he went into production 😝. Go with what he listed on the website 👍. The numbers are listed on the pistons. 1.3 goes in front, 1.5 in the rear. Definitely can use them on any of the 6s rigs 👌👌😎💪👊👊