Thanks for watching! I'm working on actually finding a cable so we can THEN use the Lucas Diagnostic Tool - hopefully that's coming in another video! - it's going to be the master cylinder isn't it ...
Jon, i reckon you should do a car related temu vid, testing various stuff. I bought a tyre pressure inflator and it has saved me a fortune and i dont have to go to a petrol station to find the machine is broken, I would look forward to seeing that video!
This series is becoming like the ones about Lord Lucan and Jack the ripper. You go in each time full of expectation that enlightenment awaits and at the end the presenter says: dunno really it is still a mystery !
if you want to skip the ABS purging with using the OBD2, you can always try pressure bleed the brakes. usually works to push out air in the ABS and the brake system all the way to the back. but i don't know will it works with this or not. just a suggestion. good luck Jon.
Try diagnose the servo/brake booster they usually the main culprit. It should hold vaccum when pressed. Or try replace it with double layered mitsubishi charisma/lancer servo,it should fit with proton original master cylinder. Single layer servo usually a bit squishy. Good luck to you guys 👍
I was always told that if you don’t have a tool and need to purge the module, go find a gravel lot or some ice and drive around, applying the brakes hard to trigger the ABS pump for each wheel then go back and do a normal bleed to get any air purged from the ABS unit out of the lines.
Fingers crossed what we have been doing in the previous videos has done the same thing, sadly we can't drive it anywhere as it's not road legal at this time
@@JonCoupland Forgot about that point. I'm with your dad in theory, but it's hard because different ABS system act differently. I will say that I chased this issues with my 1988 Ford F-150 and eventually replaced the master after it finally let go for sure. New master, new fluid and a bleed did the trick. You dad would probably have preferred to bleed it's Rear ABS module over this. lol Keep up the great work.
It doesnt matter if its on the ground or in the air, when you press the brakes like that of course it will stall. Thats what happens unless its an Auto! Also , from the tinternet; Typically ABS includes a central electronic control unit (ECU), four wheel speed sensors, and at least two hydraulic valves within the brake hydraulics. The ECU constantly monitors the rotational speed of each wheel; if it detects the wheel rotating significantly slower than the speed of the vehicle, a condition indicative of impending wheel lock, it actuates the valves to reduce hydraulic pressure to the brake at the affected wheel, thus reducing the braking force on that wheel; the wheel then turns faster. Conversely, if the ECU detects a wheel turning significantly faster than the others, brake hydraulic pressure to the wheel is increased so the braking force is reapplied, slowing down the wheel
Hi Jon and Pete another great video on the impian and lots of wajjaring about 😂😂😂 I am wondering if the master cylinder is still at fault! My dad has the same drill it’s older than me and he still uses it! All the best to you both Daniel
"Engineering Solution" - Now there's a line that I'll be using on occasions. Ok for your dad as an engineer to say, but not to be used by you Jon ! And you having the same initials as the most famous JC, very funny. 🤭😁
I agree with Amsky8432 who commented below. Or the booster hose from the engine to the servo may have a leak. (which i am informed can stall the engine) Why ??? 🤷♂🤷♂
@@JonCoupland you can try double layer servo from Honda EK, Mitsu Pajero & Nissan SR20 / Sentra B14 / Silvia S15. May need to modify the brake line to fit properly
The light goes off but I suspect on my car the ABS has not worked for some years. Not sure if you are meant to keep the toothed part on the front hubs clean but mine are very rusty. The rear ones are better because they are machined on the inside of the drums.
Morning Jon ask your dad could the abs pump be failing to supply equal pressure too the wheels just had this problem on a ford fusion and it was the abs pump no warning lights showing on the dashboard
He says it's a possibility but a new abs pump has been fitted in its life. Not sure how we would test it sadly ... But the good news is ... We reckon We've cracked it!
I am keen to see what the problem is with the brake pedal on your Proton Impian and l bet your father will be looking forward to solving the problem and your fancy diagnostic tool for any Proton so retro and l do hope you get the cable for it because it may indicate what is wrong with the braking system
I can't help but think you're doing it backwards (well crosswords?) Surely the static wheel is the one the abs will work on and the spinning one will be left alone? Luckily I don't work on abs systems.
@JonCoupland just basing my very un-mechanicky thoughts on 'antilock' braking but honestly I'd trust your Dad's thoughts way above any I have. Keep up the good work. I'm still stuck on 1950s braking systems.
@ That problem with the brakes is screaming master cylinder or big air lock to me watching the video I watched the latest video and the master cylinder had not been changed yet I watched most of the previous one and I read in the comments you had already changed the abs pump so I didn’t suggest abs pump When I said bleed through the abs pump first before the 4 wheels it’s foot on the brake and go to 1 of the 2 larger feed pipes into into the pump crack that off the brake pedal should move down slightly Go to the other feed pipe in Do the same Then the 4 out let pipes to each wheel crack them off at the pump with foot on the pedal (individually let pedal return after each pipe bled ) Then bleed it at the 4 wheels (furthest away from the master first) It doesn’t seem like a servo problem as that would make the pedal seem hard rather than excessive travel You can test the servo by pumping the pedal engine off about 5 times to loose any vacuum in the system then keeping foot on it start the engine if Servo / Vacuum feed to it is working you will feel the brake pedal move down There is a one way valve in that pipe that can also fail causing no vacuum feed to servo Hope it helps Hope you get it sorted Fantastic relationship you have with Dad Brilliant videos keep them coming 👍
Thanks for watching! I'm working on actually finding a cable so we can THEN use the Lucas Diagnostic Tool - hopefully that's coming in another video! - it's going to be the master cylinder isn't it ...
That or the brake servo i reckon.
Fingers crossed it's a simple answer @@daveawhittle
Thank you for recommending our ACMOUNT car jump starter!😄
Of course!! Thanks for sending it to us
Jon, i reckon you should do a car related temu vid, testing various stuff. I bought a tyre pressure inflator and it has saved me a fortune and i dont have to go to a petrol station to find the machine is broken, I would look forward to seeing that video!
I reckon in the new year we will do something with temu products 😁👍
@@JonCoupland yay! i got a little fan for blowing water out of channels in the car off temu, brilliant little gadget!
This series is becoming like the ones about Lord Lucan and Jack the ripper. You go in each time full of expectation that enlightenment awaits and at the end the presenter says: dunno really it is still a mystery !
Stay tuned ... We Reckon We've cracked it 🙌🙌🎉
if you want to skip the ABS purging with using the OBD2, you can always try pressure bleed the brakes. usually works to push out air in the ABS and the brake system all the way to the back. but i don't know will it works with this or not. just a suggestion. good luck Jon.
Great minds think alike ... This Sundays video sees us do this ... And to not give too much away. Dad's smiling
“Janice would like that!” 😂😂😂
🤣
Try diagnose the servo/brake booster they usually the main culprit. It should hold vaccum when pressed. Or try replace it with double layered mitsubishi charisma/lancer servo,it should fit with proton original master cylinder. Single layer servo usually a bit squishy. Good luck to you guys 👍
Thank you. We may just have to do an upgrade. Any part suggestion?
I was always told that if you don’t have a tool and need to purge the module, go find a gravel lot or some ice and drive around, applying the brakes hard to trigger the ABS pump for each wheel then go back and do a normal bleed to get any air purged from the ABS unit out of the lines.
Fingers crossed what we have been doing in the previous videos has done the same thing, sadly we can't drive it anywhere as it's not road legal at this time
@@JonCoupland Forgot about that point. I'm with your dad in theory, but it's hard because different ABS system act differently.
I will say that I chased this issues with my 1988 Ford F-150 and eventually replaced the master after it finally let go for sure. New master, new fluid and a bleed did the trick.
You dad would probably have preferred to bleed it's Rear ABS module over this. lol
Keep up the great work.
Nipplecovers are important, I agree 100% there. The engine stalling while braking might be a vacuum leak the brake servo is connected to...
We've got them covered 🤣
It doesnt matter if its on the ground or in the air, when you press the brakes like that of course it will stall. Thats what happens unless its an Auto! Also , from the tinternet;
Typically ABS includes a central electronic control unit (ECU), four wheel speed sensors, and at least two hydraulic valves within the brake hydraulics. The ECU constantly monitors the rotational speed of each wheel; if it detects the wheel rotating significantly slower than the speed of the vehicle, a condition indicative of impending wheel lock, it actuates the valves to reduce hydraulic pressure to the brake at the affected wheel, thus reducing the braking force on that wheel; the wheel then turns faster. Conversely, if the ECU detects a wheel turning significantly faster than the others, brake hydraulic pressure to the wheel is increased so the braking force is reapplied, slowing down the wheel
We will get there eventually 😁👍
Hi Jon and Pete another great video on the impian and lots of wajjaring about 😂😂😂 I am wondering if the master cylinder is still at fault! My dad has the same drill it’s older than me and he still uses it! All the best to you both Daniel
Fun times, but "dad" isn't in the Christmas mood yet 😊
Not yet ... He is today 😁👍
Kedah Malaysia menonton😊
Thanks for watching my Malaysian friend! 😊
"Engineering Solution" - Now there's a line that I'll be using on occasions. Ok for your dad as an engineer to say, but not to be used by you Jon !
And you having the same initials as the most famous JC, very funny. 🤭😁
😂😂 might get dad a t-shirt
@@JonCoupland 😆 Well your dad is your engineering solution !
Send it to the banger boys lol 😂😂, i think its the master cylinder i hope you can get it sorted as there is not many of these cars left
Exciting update coming next weekend 😉👍
fantastic👍🏻
Thank you! Cheers!
I agree with Amsky8432 who commented below. Or the booster hose from the engine to the servo may have a leak. (which i am informed can stall the engine) Why ??? 🤷♂🤷♂
Interesting! Thanks for watching
Ive got an old B&D drill like that too. Never use it but can't throw it away! 🙄
Antiques 😁👍
Proton user here. Proton uses single layer brake servo, replace it with double layer brake servo. Eg from Honda, Mitsubishi, Nissan etc
eilarazi.blogspot.com/2012/10/cara-untuk-tambah-kuasa-membrek-pada.html
Any part numbers you know of?
@@JonCoupland you can try double layer servo from Honda EK, Mitsu Pajero & Nissan SR20 / Sentra B14 / Silvia S15. May need to modify the brake line to fit properly
I’d defo look at the master cylinder, what a PITA.
We reckon We've cracked it ☺️👍 update to come soon
You must be able to have a cable like that made. Shouldn't be too different from other OBD2 tools from the era?
I think you are right ... It's getting the pins in the right order to do the right things that I think we will struggle with
@@JonCoupland but like I said, cables from other OBD2 devices should have similar connections and schematics. Does that company still exist?
The light goes off but I suspect on my car the ABS has not worked for some years. Not sure if you are meant to keep the toothed part on the front hubs clean but mine are very rusty. The rear ones are better because they are machined on the inside of the drums.
I think its when the teeth fail that it causes a problem (or the ring cracks)
There's another one on ebay with cables! Pricier, but ebay offering 5% off until 9th Dec.
That's priced nearly more than welcome paid for the car sadly 😭
What the make of your inpacked gun jon
It's a 'OneVan' we were sent it to review and actually ... It's quite good. They are about £65
www.amazon.co.uk/ONEVAN-Cordless-Impact-Driver-Brushless/dp/B0D7MB648T/ref=asc_df_B0D7MB648T?mcid=101bbbe0dc4f36dfacf763a14df8b80f&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=711706380416&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5798630439828440136&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006818&hvtargid=pla-2365390655481&psc=1&gad_source=1
Morning Jon ask your dad could the abs pump be failing to supply equal pressure too the wheels just had this problem on a ford fusion and it was the abs pump no warning lights showing on the dashboard
He says it's a possibility but a new abs pump has been fitted in its life. Not sure how we would test it sadly ... But the good news is ... We reckon We've cracked it!
@@JonCoupland Let’s hope you have cracked it
Brake hose/hoses bulging under pressure??
Nope. But we address this in the next video ☺️👍
ABS is looking for the wheel thats going slower than the others... not faster. Traction control is looking for the faster wheel 😉
Ah there we go 😁👍
I am keen to see what the problem is with the brake pedal on your Proton Impian and l bet your father will be looking forward to solving the problem and your fancy diagnostic tool for any Proton so retro and l do hope you get the cable for it because it may indicate what is wrong with the braking system
Fingers crossed 🤞
I can't help but think you're doing it backwards (well crosswords?) Surely the static wheel is the one the abs will work on and the spinning one will be left alone? Luckily I don't work on abs systems.
Also I'm seldom right so usually ignore these inner voices
It's our view that it will try and slow down the faster one but we may be wrong also! We're just muddling through 😂
It's fun either way 😁
@JonCoupland just basing my very un-mechanicky thoughts on 'antilock' braking but honestly I'd trust your Dad's thoughts way above any I have. Keep up the good work. I'm still stuck on 1950s braking systems.
Dare I ask if the pedal box is flexing because the bulkhead is cracked?
Wow thats a great suggestion that made me go and check. Thankfully not!
Sorry i can't help, Jon but im sure your dad will get to the bottom of it ... he'll not be beat 👍
Fingers crossed we have solved it. Video coming soon 😀
Master Cylinder gone
Bleed it through the ABS pump first
It's had a new one so we don't reckon that's gone yet. As in fire the pump and bleed through the brakes or is there another way you would suggest?
@ That problem with the brakes is screaming master cylinder or big air lock to me watching the video
I watched the latest video and the master cylinder had not been changed yet
I watched most of the previous one and I read in the comments you had already changed the abs pump so I didn’t suggest abs pump
When I said bleed through the abs pump first before the 4 wheels it’s foot on the brake and go to 1 of the 2 larger feed pipes into into the pump crack that off the brake pedal should move down slightly
Go to the other feed pipe in
Do the same
Then the 4 out let pipes to each wheel crack them off at the pump with foot on the pedal (individually let pedal return after each pipe bled )
Then bleed it at the 4 wheels (furthest away from the master first)
It doesn’t seem like a servo problem as that would make the pedal seem hard rather than excessive travel
You can test the servo by pumping the pedal engine off about 5 times
to loose any vacuum in the system then keeping foot on it start the engine if Servo / Vacuum feed to it is working you will feel the brake pedal move down
There is a one way valve in that pipe that can also fail causing no vacuum feed to servo
Hope it helps
Hope you get it sorted
Fantastic relationship you have with Dad
Brilliant videos keep them coming 👍
Your dad "theres too much water coming out of your exhaust"
He's Wesley Pegden! I wonder if your mother is akin to Thora Herd....
A bit more Nora Batty 🤣
you know when youve bin wajad
😂
EX UK police car.
This one specifically wasnt used but yes they used them :)
That car will have not had a fluid change for years , the whole system will be compromised , once its touched it will be trouble ,
It was trouble before 🤣
Does your dad ever smile?
Yes ... When I sell a car and he gets the profit 🤣
People say that I don't smile... I reply that where I come from this is smiling 😃