Wits End has a kit for this, with the right length hose and constant tension clamps, Joey gets them mailed out super quick, a+ video, I have to do mine next week
Thanks for the great video. Saved me a lot of time. Tackled this last week and it took about 3-1/2 hours. Not a fun job but I could do the next one much faster. One thing I'd add. The metal pipe has two brackets. You show removing the top bracket bolt. The second bracket is lower and impossible to get to with the engine in the bay. Suggestion is to just break that off. Took a couple of minutes rocking it back and forth before it cracked. No harm as the first bracket adequately holds the pipe in place along with the hose clamps below. Another word of caution. Down where the hose attaches to the engine you have to be a little careful not to break the knock sensor. Its in the same area where you are fiddling with the hose and you don't want to break that expensive little part. You'll see it.
Did mine for the first time today in 32 degree weather with occasional light snow. If I had not run through this video several times I think I would have gone mad. As it was it took me nearly four hours. Thank you for your "how to" help!
I have seen aftermarket pesky heater hose replacements made from silicon that are guaranteed to last the life of vehicle without failing. Have you heard of these and if so do you think it would be a good idea to replace the old hose with one of these?
You should never replace a constant pressure clamp with a jubilee. It's worth the extra effort as constant pressure clamps respond to heat and vibration much better.
Correct, I just did mine today and I had a normal quick connect clamp on the block side of the small section of hose, and then a cotter pin clamp on the tube section.
Unfortunately im doing this today and there are two bolts on that pipe, not just one, One faces the passenger side at the top of the manifold , the other faces the firewall on the backside of the plenum. That one is nearly impossible to get to, if that bolt is in the intake manifold doing this is a absolute nitemare. Took 45 minutes to break the bottom bolt loose, had to move the transmission dipstick, move the large transmission harness and snake your hand up behind the plenum to break the bolt loose with stubby flat 12mm gear wrench and a broken wrist when it popped.
@@OverlandBound mine needs doing asap. leaking bad. keep looking, and topping up coolant thinking I'll do it tomorrow. With the clip to the engine my idea is to clamp the ring open and cable tie. then when in position cut tie and let snap shut. don,t know if it will work. It"s good you showed me the easier access with wheel removed, thanks.
I just undid the top bolt and wrenched the tube back and forth until it broke at the firewall bolt. It had been raining off and on all day and I was pretty fed-up with mother nature, let alone the cruiser lol.
HouseOf Hendrix Good luck. The best advice I have is to allow a full day to do it. Yes there are guys out there that have "done it in an hour", but if that is your expectation you will be frustrated. Don't try to fit it in before a visit to the in-laws ;)
Check what your hose looks like, I replaced the PHH today and did a bypass (removed the metal hardline between the heater control and the block) and have a 1.5' section of Gates Greenstripe bridging the two. I recommend this instead of re-using the hardline, saves hours and plenty of sanity.
No, it does not fail every 60k, but like proper preventative maintenance, it's better to choose when you replace parts, rather than the parts choose when they need replacing.
I used a 12v dewalt impact with extensions to a u-joint and a 1/4 drive 8mm. I highly recommend this over sticking your arm back up in there to try to turn a screwdriver.
Once it fails, yes. My hose busted, A/C got warm (coolant/engine temp 228) and that prompted me to look down and see my temp gauge about 2cm from the top of red. Quickly pulled over. After I got the hose fixed today I put in almost 2.5 gallons of distilled water. You will lose almost all of your coolant.
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
Wits End has a kit for this, with the right length hose and constant tension clamps, Joey gets them mailed out super quick, a+ video, I have to do mine next week
Thanks for the great video. Saved me a lot of time. Tackled this last week and it took about 3-1/2 hours. Not a fun job but I could do the next one much faster. One thing I'd add. The metal pipe has two brackets. You show removing the top bracket bolt. The second bracket is lower and impossible to get to with the engine in the bay. Suggestion is to just break that off. Took a couple of minutes rocking it back and forth before it cracked. No harm as the first bracket adequately holds the pipe in place along with the hose clamps below. Another word of caution. Down where the hose attaches to the engine you have to be a little careful not to break the knock sensor. Its in the same area where you are fiddling with the hose and you don't want to break that expensive little part. You'll see it.
Did mine for the first time today in 32 degree weather with occasional light snow. If I had not run through this video several times I think I would have gone mad. As it was it took me nearly four hours. Thank you for your "how to" help!
Thank you. I have to do this job - was almost going to remove the manifold - thanks for saving me that effort.
I have seen aftermarket pesky heater hose replacements made from silicon that are guaranteed to last the life of vehicle without failing. Have you heard of these and if so do you think it would be a good idea to replace the old hose with one of these?
You should never replace a constant pressure clamp with a jubilee. It's worth the extra effort as constant pressure clamps respond to heat and vibration much better.
I think yours had been done once before. That worm drive hose clamp that was on there is most likely not OEM.
Correct, I just did mine today and I had a normal quick connect clamp on the block side of the small section of hose, and then a cotter pin clamp on the tube section.
Ageed
Unfortunately im doing this today and there are two bolts on that pipe, not just one, One faces the passenger side at the top of the manifold , the other faces the firewall on the backside of the plenum. That one is nearly impossible to get to, if that bolt is in the intake manifold doing this is a absolute nitemare.
Took 45 minutes to break the bottom bolt loose, had to move the transmission dipstick, move the large transmission harness and snake your hand up behind the plenum to break the bolt loose with stubby flat 12mm gear wrench and a broken wrist when it popped.
It is indeed, pesky!
@@OverlandBound mine needs doing asap. leaking bad. keep looking, and topping up coolant thinking I'll do it tomorrow. With the clip to the engine my idea is to clamp the ring open and cable tie. then when in position cut tie and let snap shut. don,t know if it will work. It"s good you showed me the easier access with wheel removed, thanks.
I just undid the top bolt and wrenched the tube back and forth until it broke at the firewall bolt. It had been raining off and on all day and I was pretty fed-up with mother nature, let alone the cruiser lol.
Many thanks for this. I am getting ready to do the little bugger myself soon.
HouseOf Hendrix Good luck. The best advice I have is to allow a full day to do it. Yes there are guys out there that have "done it in an hour", but if that is your expectation you will be frustrated. Don't try to fit it in before a visit to the in-laws ;)
Overland Bound lol, I'll allow plenty of time and send the kids to a friends house for the day!
Great idea! ;)
nice video. can you do a video on the fuel filter replacement, please? I am one of your newest subscribers. thanks.
+Rupert Gaznabbi I've got a bunch to do! I'll keep it on the list! Welcome, and thank you for subscribing! We really appreciate it!
Any recommendations for a mazda 2003 protege5 heater hose replacement?
Thanks for posting! I'm buying a FZ80 and assume I'll need to change it.
Anyone know of any good LC mechanics in the SF bay area??
+red bull Awesome! I like "Top Shop" in Lafayette.
Interesting ? I didnt know I was missing that cover until I saw this..I
What rock shield is that? Where did you buy it? I’ve never seen one before. Great video on phh btw!
thats stock on the 80 series
What size hose is this?
thanks!
Im hoping mine has been done at some point it has 344k
I just hit 366.5k and mine took a dump, tow truck just drove up
Check what your hose looks like, I replaced the PHH today and did a bypass (removed the metal hardline between the heater control and the block) and have a 1.5' section of Gates Greenstripe bridging the two. I recommend this instead of re-using the hardline, saves hours and plenty of sanity.
Does it fail EVERY 60,000 miles? Is there no more durable solution?
By pass the metal pipe and run heater hose over the brake booster directly to the heater valve.
@@Simple_TH-cam - those were my thoughts exactly. Would be much easier for a future replacement.
the most reliable solution would be to disconnect the heater altogether but thats only an option for those of us in warmer climates
No, it does not fail every 60k, but like proper preventative maintenance, it's better to choose when you replace parts, rather than the parts choose when they need replacing.
Use 5/16 but driver on those. Stop using screw drivers and your life will have much more happiness
I used a 12v dewalt impact with extensions to a u-joint and a 1/4 drive 8mm. I highly recommend this over sticking your arm back up in there to try to turn a screwdriver.
if this isnt replaced will it cause the engine to over heat ?
Von Wray if it leaks the coolant out, yes.
Once it fails, yes.
My hose busted, A/C got warm (coolant/engine temp 228) and that prompted me to look down and see my temp gauge about 2cm from the top of red. Quickly pulled over. After I got the hose fixed today I put in almost 2.5 gallons of distilled water.
You will lose almost all of your coolant.
There are many potential single points of failure.
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