HOW TO: EASILY REMOVE Steering Stem Bearing Races from DIRT BIKE OR MOTORCYCLE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2021
- In this two minute tech tip, I review two methods to get the steering stem bearing races removed from your dirt bike or motorcycle frame. First method requires a hammer and punch, and the second method has got to be the EASIEST method out there using the Park Tool Steering Stem bearing Race remover tool. By far the best money I have ever spent on a tool. Think it's worth it? Check it out for yourself! Links to all the tools are below.
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You just made me miss my FULLY RESTORED 1994 KX250 very much...BUT, all is not lost because I bought a 1986 mint Husky 400wr 2 stroke to keep me smokin and loud. Doin my bearings tomorrow, great job, ordering the race remover tonite!
I repair industrial machinery. More options:
1. *Slide hammer with an ID puller attachment.* Works much nicer and more evenly than using a screw driver or punch. It also has a lot of removal power. I wouldn't call this non-destructive to the race, but it sure works well.
2. *Pipe or tubing that is either the right size or has a slit down the length so it can sleeve in.* PVC tends to be a little too weak for bearings, in my experience, so plan on thin steel.
3. Take an *Alu or steel square or rectangular piece of plate/bar that is just too large* by the corners. Use a cutoff disk, sander, grinder, bandsaw, etc to clip the corners progressively until it fits (or even flatten the corners w/ a hammer in a pinch). Drop that plate down in to the bearing and use any straight rod, stick, tube, etc to drive the plate through.
(or you can drill it and make a custom puller, but you will need to think about how to clear the bearing on the outside).
The tool you used is pretty nice. I'd use that a lot where I work as a first quick option. (For heavily stuck, I'd still use the slide hammer)
Heat makes a big difference for both removal and installation. Just don't cook the grease out of a sealed bearing.
(In engineering school, they demonstrated how effective this is by heating a collection of hoops/rings tightly bound together. As they warmed up, they loosen and the stack falls apart to a loose pile of rings on the floor)
*Extra Tip:* if you are pressing bearings in, the old bearing just so happens to be the right sizes, especially if you slit it with a cutoff disk so it can slip more easily. Often they have enough thickness to allow you to use an ordinary tubing size to drive them in. (I keep a bin of slit inner and outer races and misc tubing just for removing & installing bearings)
You can make a tool yourself by using a piece of steel conduit and cutting into 4 with the hacksaw. Its a bit light duty but that's what i did and does the job well. Great content by the way.
Another great video. Thanks Greg.
Thanks Chris!
All good and well if the race has a small ridge. Mine don't bought this tool but it doesnt work on the small edge on the race
Very helpful!
That tool works wonders!
Big piece of steel stock and a mini sledge worked great on a 1992 Yamaha wr 500 (same as yz 250)
That’s a great idea right there!
so underrated
Most appreciated good sir... first wack and it flew
Right on! Glad it helped my dude.
Great when you have thar lip of the race to hit. Some manufacturers does not leave that there.
It definitely creates a world of headache when they are like that! A Dremel tool can be used to cut the race, or you can try and weld a little notch on the race to hit the punch against, but not many people have access to that method.
For something like a cr50F would you need the park tool RT1 for the smaller head tube
Yes! Great Question Walker. You will need the RT1 because of the smaller diameter stem and bearings. It will fit 1 to 1.25" races. Double check the measurement of the bearing/stem!
thank you!!!!!
Hope it helped brother!
does not work on bikes where the bite area is, small, like the honda transalp
So does the top one come out the same way?
Yes it does!
6 hours and counting on my CB750. It's ridiculous. The top one came out super easy, but the bottom one is stuck like I have never seen anything stuck in my life.
Wooof, that's rough man. Maybe try some PB blaster from the top, let it soak as best you can for a good amount of time. Blast it with a ton of heat and give it a rip.
@@GregHitchko I've been doing exactly that but it just isn't wanting to go. I think I'm going to make a tool that fits on the lip a bit better. Failing that, I have a buddy with a TIG welder...
Always good to see a carpenters claw hammer take place of a metalwork/blacksmith ball peen hammer. LOL Cheeky cheapskate.
Haha love it dude!