Thanks man! This helped me get my VCM motor out. Turns out the plastic coupler between the motor and the shaft it turns is broken. I was able to 3d print a replacement part and all the error codes I had went away. Edit: I ended up replacing the 3d print with a steel part I made from a steel rod from Home Depot. A file, a hand drill, a hacksaw and some elbow grease later and I had a steel part I don’t have to worry will break again.
@@user-dallasg If I remember correctly, I printed it out of PLA, that worked for a bit but melted. Nylon might work but I'd suggest just buying a steel rod that is the right diameter and filing the notches in it. You can use a drill for the circular part in the center.
Hello, great explanation! I have a 2012 Kia Forte EX, 2.0L. I have a question, I'm getting the P2017 code, which is related to the actuator, but can't figure exactly what it is. The code says the manifold flaps are staying open.
Part of a good/thorough diagnosis and repair is determining why the part failed. If you replaced this coupler and it worked and continues to work for you that is great. But you should physically check the intake runner for smooth operation. If sticking or binding that would be the reason for the coupler breaking. So if you are one of the many who have had this issue to recur after replacing the motor and coupler this is likely the reason why. This is a very good video so don't take this as a criticism. You don't need your tool battery to test. Just st use the vehicle battery after all that's what it is for. Better still, once you know which wires to test just use your power probe
Can the intake manifold be repaired? My car is going 100 miles per hour when I press the gas pedal. The car does not accelerate at all, as if it is locked, so the engine light is on on the speedometer.
No, they don't. You have to buy entire part as a complete unit. $300+ from dealerships. Might get lucky at your local junk/salvage yard for a 1st gen VCMA
So . I have same issue. With p200A . For 2010 Hyundai Santa fe with 2.4 Engine. I replace same small piece its was broken. Its not working check engine light still there . Any other idea ?
My little plastic piece is also broken but it’s the the little plastic piece not connected to the motor itself where am I supposed to order that piece let alone the intake runner control motor from?
I actually had this same problem. I just went to the hardware store and bought a steel rod the same diameter as the part. One side of the part is just a slot. The other side is a slot with a circle. I just filed the slot on the one side, cut the bar with a hacksaw to the right length, drilled the circle on the other side with a hand drill, and cut the slot with a file. It was a real pain in the butt (probably took 3 hours) but at least I don’t have to worry about it breaking again. I also probably could have done it much faster with a better file. It fit and the CEL went away. Just a note, I had to drive it a few times before the CEL cleared.
Thank you for the video! Mine is intermittently throwing this error along with the p0335 (crankshaft sensor) error. When it does it it has a really hard time accelerating and the exhaust smells rich, also shifts hard occasionally. It'll stay performing like this until I turn it off and back on. You think I should go ahead and replace this part? Or could it be something else? Only hesitant due to the cost of the part.
@Mil-usos Miller Thanks for the recommendation, yeah I'll do that since it is the cheaper part, and with them happening simultaneously it's likely one error is causing the other.
Thanks man! This helped me get my VCM motor out. Turns out the plastic coupler between the motor and the shaft it turns is broken. I was able to 3d print a replacement part and all the error codes I had went away.
Edit: I ended up replacing the 3d print with a steel part I made from a steel rod from Home Depot. A file, a hand drill, a hacksaw and some elbow grease later and I had a steel part I don’t have to worry will break again.
Hey man quick question.
How did you make 3D print of it?
I have the 3D printer, but was wondering how to print it and what kinda plastic did you use
@@user-dallasg If I remember correctly, I printed it out of PLA, that worked for a bit but melted. Nylon might work but I'd suggest just buying a steel rod that is the right diameter and filing the notches in it. You can use a drill for the circular part in the center.
Thank you so much for posting this! You saved me a ton of money.
Hello, great explanation! I have a 2012 Kia Forte EX, 2.0L.
I have a question, I'm getting the P2017 code, which is related to the actuator, but can't figure exactly what it is. The code says the manifold flaps are staying open.
Part of a good/thorough diagnosis and repair is determining why the part failed. If you replaced this coupler and it worked and continues to work for you that is great. But you should physically check the intake runner for smooth operation. If sticking or binding that would be the reason for the coupler breaking. So if you are one of the many who have had this issue to recur after replacing the motor and coupler this is likely the reason why.
This is a very good video so don't take this as a criticism. You don't need your tool battery to test. Just st use the vehicle battery after all that's what it is for. Better still, once you know which wires to test just use your power probe
You are super entertaining to watch🖤 loved the video and it helped me with my 2011 Kia forte EX
Thanks man! Helped out. Jesus the price for this part is outrageous. Thabks
It’s crazy!
Can the intake manifold be repaired? My car is going 100 miles per hour when I press the gas pedal. The car does not accelerate at all, as if it is locked, so the engine light is on on the speedometer.
If you would be so kind, would it be possible to open the motor and see its internal components? Thank you for your cooperation
What you call that small Nut that go on the intake runner control?
How do you line the motor up?
Do they sell the plastic coupler separately since it seems most peoples motors work but is the plastic part that fails
When I posted the video, I couldn't find just the coupler. I'm hoping someone from Dorman or the like sees this and starts making the product.
No, they don't. You have to buy entire part as a complete unit. $300+ from dealerships.
Might get lucky at your local junk/salvage yard for a 1st gen VCMA
Tengo una kia spotarge y chequé el conector con la troca prendida pero el
Voltaje del primer me marca 0
I have the same code trouble on my sorento 2.0 turbo ! What is the name of this sensor?
Motor assembly VCM
please my Kia Sportage 2012 came up with P0661 code what is the solution
I have a 2011 Kia Sorento and this same code came up. Is it the same process for the Serento too?
Did you ever find out? I have a 2012 and been trying to fix forever!
Se puede seguir conduciendo si le faltará este sensor y que consecuencia puede ocasionar
Si se puede. Pierde potencia y economía, pero si se puede.
Gracias por tu respuesta, lo he buscado en los respuestos y llegan en 16 días, al parecer son un poco difícil conseguirlos.
Es cierto que daña el catalítico??
@Freddy Ferreras Y para acabarla hicieron diferentes estilos de la misma pieza 😮💨
Tal vez a lo largo. El coche en este video, el cliente ya lo tenía conduciendo así poco mas de un mes. No había códigos del cat.
So . I have same issue. With p200A . For 2010 Hyundai Santa fe with 2.4 Engine. I replace same small piece its was broken. Its not working check engine light still there . Any other idea ?
Did u erase the code with a scanner or by disconnecting the battery ?
My 2012 kia had a code for this and idle air control valve. I changed both and still have the code
My little plastic piece is also broken but it’s the the little plastic piece not connected to the motor itself where am I supposed to order that piece let alone the intake runner control motor from?
I actually had this same problem. I just went to the hardware store and bought a steel rod the same diameter as the part. One side of the part is just a slot. The other side is a slot with a circle. I just filed the slot on the one side, cut the bar with a hacksaw to the right length, drilled the circle on the other side with a hand drill, and cut the slot with a file. It was a real pain in the butt (probably took 3 hours) but at least I don’t have to worry about it breaking again. I also probably could have done it much faster with a better file.
It fit and the CEL went away. Just a note, I had to drive it a few times before the CEL cleared.
Thank you for the video! Mine is intermittently throwing this error along with the p0335 (crankshaft sensor) error. When it does it it has a really hard time accelerating and the exhaust smells rich, also shifts hard occasionally. It'll stay performing like this until I turn it off and back on. You think I should go ahead and replace this part? Or could it be something else? Only hesitant due to the cost of the part.
Glad the video helped. I'd start with the crank sensor and see how the car does after.
@Mil-usos Miller Thanks for the recommendation, yeah I'll do that since it is the cheaper part, and with them happening simultaneously it's likely one error is causing the other.
Amazing , thank you my brother God bless you new follower
Duda disculpa como se llama esa pieza disculpa la pregunta
En inglés Kia/Hyundai le llama:
Motor assembly VCM
Suerte!
Good video very detailed
Great video
just liking for how you said 10 lol
anyone ever heard of cleaning a motor first man that motor is dirty
Not a good idea to clean a motor with all the electrical connectors in today's cars.
Thanks!!!!
😊