Can I suggest the use of finger cots, especially once the movement has been cleaned? It will help reduce fingerprint oils getting into the movement and potentially corroding the parts.
So much oil you could use the stem as a dipstick. Good work for your first watch repair! FHF (Fabrique d'Horlogerie de Fontainemelon) 96 movement. I am currently working on the same movement but the 96-4 version with date complication.
Hahaha! That's right. I don't think I'm quite ready to do a movement with date just yet, but the 96-4 is probably a good place to start when I do. Thanks for Watching.
As I said, you are beginner in this hobby and you do not try to cut parts where you try and retry to do something, so it's really interesting to see "the reality behind". Thanks for that !
Regarding putting the parts together. I am also a beginner and doing the same. However I can’t see how even with experience it will be easy to keep track of which screw goes where. Each movement seems to have its idiosyncrasies about that. So I would say that keeping screws grouped with what they screw in is likely a good practice in general
I've only done half a dozen movements, but I'm pretty sure I would be able to work it out pretty easily. The biggest risk is two screws that are the same thread but different length. I haven't had a movement with that yet, but some do. That's why its important to keep a close eye on the screws when disassembling. Most of the time the wrong screw just will not fit into the wrong place. Watch movements are for the most part so finely toleranced, that the right screw will just want to go into the right place - if that makes any sense. It will be pretty obvious pretty quickly if it isn't right. Also, after a while you know that most watches will have at the very least: Balance screw Pallet Fork screw Dial screws (I usually leave this in the mainplate) sometimes mounting ring screws to secure the movement in the holder (I usually leave these in place) Train bridge screws (usually 3 or 4, and they are usually the same) Barrel bridge screws Ratchet screw (big head) Crown wheel screw (big head, usually reverse threat, with the thread cut off at the bottom so it doesn't foul the stem) Setting lever screw (it will be different from all the others, newer watches often don't use a screw but a post that sits in the mainplate) There is usually a cover plate on the dial side that over the top of the yoke. Usually two screws that are fairly small There may be a screw as part of the yoke spring mechanism depending on manufacturer If the watch has centre seconds sweep, there will either be an additional bridge holding the fourth wheel above the centre wheel. Usually just 1 screw. Otherwise the fourth wheel will be offset, and there will be a small bridge with an intermediate wheel to connect the fourth wheel to a pinion going through the centre wheel driving the seconds hand. There will be some screws holding this intermediate arrangement in place. So the point is that it doesn't take that long to be able to identify what everything is for, and thereby where the screws go. I learned all this just by working on a few watches. The point is to look very carefully when disassembling. And even though filming it is a real pain, sometimes it can save your life when you need to go back and review the footage to see how something goes back together. Good luck, and enjoy!
@@watchout9213 I hope for my sake you are right. My second practice movement is a 2650g. A pretty ugly and very cheap skeletonized movement which I chose because I could have a pocket watch with it in it delivered by Amazon one the same day (Sunday) for 27$. And the click screw, ratchet wheel screw and crown wheel screw look the same even under the microscope. Obviously the crown wheel one is reverse threaded and the other two may actually be identical. But in doubt I keep them separate and next to their respective part. Granted it may be different in more “respectable” movements (and I am not ditching this one because it is Chinese. I think the st36 is beautiful and very well made but that 2650 really feel bad.
I'm not sure what you mean, but I probably made a noob mistake. I've since worked out that you need to set the hour hand right on an hour (any hour will do) and set the minutes hand to 12 O'Clock. Common sense, but when you've never done something before you can't think of everything all at once.
The purpose of this cap jewel you were unsure how to lubricate it is to reduce the end shake of the wheel and on the other hand give it a bit of shock protection I think. The proper way to lubricate it is to put a tiny drop of oil on the flat side, turn it over and put it back to its place so that the oil is held between the two jewels where the pivot contacts the cap jewel.
Thanks - I think you are both correct. I did ask my watchmaker and he said it was fine to oil it the way I did, but I think next time around I will do as you suggest.
If you have or know someone with a 3d printer, look up "RS Winder set" to print out. I have some and they work fairly well without costing a ton of money!
The pallet fork jewel may have become loose if you cleaned the pallet fork in IPA. The shellac holding the jewels in place dissolve in IPA. One Dip is used for cleaning the balance and pallet fork. Just a guess from a fellow hobbyist. 😁
Thanks - I cleaned the balance and the pallet fork in One Dip. The balance I used was one of those cheap Indian "10-pack" blisters, so that might be part of the problem. Thanks for Watching and commenting, I really appreciate it!
My understanding is that soaking for any longer than 2 min in IPA will damage pallet jewel shellack .If you do a quick dip in IPA and then immediately blow off with air….should be safe.
Watches like this have certain charm that the fancier brands do not. I can't explain it, but when i see one there's just something about it. These are the type watches I collect and wear. A watch should not have more charisma than the person wearing it.
Can I suggest the use of finger cots, especially once the movement has been cleaned? It will help reduce fingerprint oils getting into the movement and potentially corroding the parts.
Good beginning!! Dismantle and assemble a hundred times of this movt and you will gain speed.All the best.
Well as a first timer, you did a pretty good job honestly... Practice makes perfect, so keep on!
Thanks - I really appreciate it.
So much oil you could use the stem as a dipstick. Good work for your first watch repair! FHF (Fabrique d'Horlogerie de Fontainemelon) 96 movement. I am currently working on the same movement but the 96-4 version with date complication.
Hahaha! That's right. I don't think I'm quite ready to do a movement with date just yet, but the 96-4 is probably a good place to start when I do. Thanks for Watching.
Great video, nice careful, steady style. Hoping to undertake my first teardown and rebuild soon on a Seagul ST36.
Awesome - Good luck!
Great Job, Mate
Very enjoyable and educational!
Thanks for Watching
great video! Nice to hear an Aussie doing this. You've inspired me to try. Where do you buy your Moebius oils?
Thanks for watching. Got oils from Cousins UK.
As I said, you are beginner in this hobby and you do not try to cut parts where you try and retry to do something, so it's really interesting to see "the reality behind". Thanks for that !
Thanks for Watching. I've learned so much since my last video, but still ever so far to go...
Regarding putting the parts together. I am also a beginner and doing the same. However I can’t see how even with experience it will be easy to keep track of which screw goes where.
Each movement seems to have its idiosyncrasies about that. So I would say that keeping screws grouped with what they screw in is likely a good practice in general
I've only done half a dozen movements, but I'm pretty sure I would be able to work it out pretty easily. The biggest risk is two screws that are the same thread but different length. I haven't had a movement with that yet, but some do. That's why its important to keep a close eye on the screws when disassembling. Most of the time the wrong screw just will not fit into the wrong place. Watch movements are for the most part so finely toleranced, that the right screw will just want to go into the right place - if that makes any sense. It will be pretty obvious pretty quickly if it isn't right.
Also, after a while you know that most watches will have at the very least:
Balance screw
Pallet Fork screw
Dial screws (I usually leave this in the mainplate)
sometimes mounting ring screws to secure the movement in the holder (I usually leave these in place)
Train bridge screws (usually 3 or 4, and they are usually the same)
Barrel bridge screws
Ratchet screw (big head)
Crown wheel screw (big head, usually reverse threat, with the thread cut off at the bottom so it doesn't foul the stem)
Setting lever screw (it will be different from all the others, newer watches often don't use a screw but a post that sits in the mainplate)
There is usually a cover plate on the dial side that over the top of the yoke. Usually two screws that are fairly small
There may be a screw as part of the yoke spring mechanism depending on manufacturer
If the watch has centre seconds sweep, there will either be an additional bridge holding the fourth wheel above the centre wheel. Usually just 1 screw.
Otherwise the fourth wheel will be offset, and there will be a small bridge with an intermediate wheel to connect the fourth wheel to a pinion going through the centre wheel driving the seconds hand. There will be some screws holding this intermediate arrangement in place.
So the point is that it doesn't take that long to be able to identify what everything is for, and thereby where the screws go.
I learned all this just by working on a few watches. The point is to look very carefully when disassembling.
And even though filming it is a real pain, sometimes it can save your life when you need to go back and review the footage to see how something goes back together.
Good luck, and enjoy!
@@watchout9213 I hope for my sake you are right. My second practice movement is a 2650g. A pretty ugly and very cheap skeletonized movement which I chose because I could have a pocket watch with it in it delivered by Amazon one the same day (Sunday) for 27$. And the click screw, ratchet wheel screw and crown wheel screw look the same even under the microscope. Obviously the crown wheel one is reverse threaded and the other two may actually be identical. But in doubt I keep them separate and next to their respective part.
Granted it may be different in more “respectable” movements (and I am not ditching this one because it is Chinese. I think the st36 is beautiful and very well made but that 2650 really feel bad.
very informative ...thanks for sharing👍
Great video... but... ¿Have you put the hands at 8.45? It´s the first time I see something so...
I'm not sure what you mean, but I probably made a noob mistake. I've since worked out that you need to set the hour hand right on an hour (any hour will do) and set the minutes hand to 12 O'Clock. Common sense, but when you've never done something before you can't think of everything all at once.
The purpose of this cap jewel you were unsure how to lubricate it is to reduce the end shake of the wheel and on the other hand give it a bit of shock protection I think. The proper way to lubricate it is to put a tiny drop of oil on the flat side, turn it over and put it back to its place so that the oil is held between the two jewels where the pivot contacts the cap jewel.
Thanks - I think you are both correct. I did ask my watchmaker and he said it was fine to oil it the way I did, but I think next time around I will do as you suggest.
Champion my fellow watchmaker traveller!
I still feel like I'm standing at the bottom of a cliff looking up!
If you have or know someone with a 3d printer, look up "RS Winder set" to print out. I have some and they work fairly well without costing a ton of money!
Wow - looks really interesting. Thanks!
The pallet fork jewel may have become loose if you cleaned the pallet fork in IPA. The shellac holding the jewels in place dissolve in IPA. One Dip is used for cleaning the balance and pallet fork. Just a guess from a fellow hobbyist. 😁
Thanks - I cleaned the balance and the pallet fork in One Dip. The balance I used was one of those cheap Indian "10-pack" blisters, so that might be part of the problem. Thanks for Watching and commenting, I really appreciate it!
My understanding is that soaking for any longer than 2 min in IPA will damage pallet jewel shellack .If you do a quick dip in IPA and then immediately blow off with air….should be safe.
Watches like this have certain charm that the fancier brands do not. I can't explain it, but when i see one there's just something about it. These are the type watches I collect and wear. A watch should not have more charisma than the person wearing it.
Yep - absolutely. Thanks for Watching.
Was there a lot of oil in the watch???😂
Sure was!