How to Fume Wood for Color / Antique Furniture Finishing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ส.ค. 2016
- Fuming wood is antique furniture finishing technique to enhance or change the color of wood is one of the oldest and most natural ways of finishing, by oxidizing the natural tannin in the wood and thereby making color or tonal changes.
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Great information to have Colin. Thanks for taking the time to show how fuming works on wood.
Thanks Ron ... I am getting behind in my reponses to everyone, I need more hours in a day ... lol
Useful, thanks
First time I have seen this process, many thanks Colin. Very interested!!🇬🇧🇬🇧
You're Welcome!
Very cool. That's good info, thank you!
Thanks for commenting Jack
Great/informative video. Thank you for taking the time and effort to put it together.
thanks for commenting
Really good video, I thought the oak looked so good. The next time I use oak in a project I'm going to use this technique. After a top coat is applied I bet the oak will look good
Very cool experiment I've always wanted to see what fuming does to wood and this was great to see all the results. Thank you for sharing and I'm looking forward to reading your article.
Thanks for commenting Tom, glad you enjoyed
That's really interesting! I'd never heard of fuming before.
It's one of those lost art things ... the arts and crafts woodworkers used it quite a bit, but then they didn't have all the stains and dyes we have now
Very interesting technique. Being a relative beginner in the woodworking arena, I had not heard of this before. After watching the video, I read your article then did some other research in this technique. This is something that I'll definitely try in the future. Thanks for this very informative and interesting video.
Thanks for the note Eric, yes it's something I have wanted to do for many, many years and finally go around to it. I need to do more I think there is a lot I don't know about this yet.
Pretty darn interesting Colin. I have fumed white oak before, but never any of the other woods you tested. Great information!
Glad this was helpful, I learned from it too and something I need to do more of I think there is a lot more to know.
colin great stuf just a simple addition I learned from an old farmer 60 years ago, take tea about a pound to a half gallon of water boil for a half hour and let steep over night. Tea has naturally high content of tanin, paint on your maple board let it dry the fume voila fumed maple
I used one to warm up oils solvents and other industrial materials.
thank you
Thanks David
Good stuff Colin. I do my own "fuming" in the shop - every time I make a dumb mistake ;)
lol, yes there are many kinds of fuming
You could try to use a hot plate type coffee cup warmer, cheap at a thrift store and a small stainless steel dish same source to the heat will accelerate the fuming process. It could be built in to a cabinet made from a salvaged wood.
All good ideas, and yes I did think about the heating but don't really have a safe way of doing. Thanks for the notes Fredrick
LOL You finally went to the "Dark-Side" Colin !!!! Now you just have to build a larger tent for larger items and you will be all set. It would have been great to truly see the wood without the harsh lights of the shop. Too bad about the weather not cooperating with you but a really great intro to this lost art. Take care Amigo.
Derek
Good to hear from you ... I am so far behind in my responses, not sure I will ever catch up. Yes, want to do more fuming but yeah, weather not the greatest here ... talk to you soon
cool thanks good point on safety,
Thanks for taking a moment to comment Cassy
Interesting. Is there any way to fume floors that you are refinishing or a door?
When I fumed a project a few years ago, I used my large recycling bin as a vessel. I built a frame to hang my parts. I poured the ammonia directly into the bin. I then sealed it with duct tape. I left it for 24 hours. You could also use a large plastic storage bin or garbage can. The results were amazing on white oak. After applying a poly finish, it had a chocolate color. I'll post a picture on Twitter and tag you.
Great video! I have tried it on cherry as well and it turns very red.
Ah ... thanks for that Fredrik, good info ... does the red stick or does it fade after a time?
Colin, very interesting. I'd never heard of this technique before. I'm wondering how finishing it further w/ stain, lacquer, or varnish will look. I do suggest you view the video yourself because from the angle shown the scratches ARE visible. Just a heads-up my friend. Maybe you can finish them further in another video?
Yes, There are many options for topcoats, I guess it depends what you like. Yes, those scratches I made were very deep and if that had been a dye or a stain, they would have gone right through into the raw wood and would have stood out from across the room even if you weren't looking for them, but with fuming so deep they tend to mask, but a scratch is a scratch.
how long did you leave the amonia in the bag?
very cool Colin. Can you go into a little more detail on adding a lacquer or water base poly to the wood. Such as time lapse to finish. Also does the ammonia leave a residue or lingering aroma?
Greg
Again great video.
No lingering aroma that I could detect after 24 hours ... will see what I can do with the laquer and poly ... thanks for the note, appreciate it
I watch all your videos i every one else should too----
always learn alot from ur videos
but thank god i already know math ??? just jokin--- i remember a vid that had me guessing?
You probably know math better that me, maybe I should get you work with me in my shop, I could use the help "_
wow! never heard of fuming wood before now. does it leave a smell on the wood from the amonia? very interesting, especially for intarsia, cheers
Yes it kind of a lost art, but I'm finding there are still a few who use it quite a bit.
just got fuming red oak yesterday using std ammonia from lowes.......
Should work fine from what I hear, depending on how much you use will determine how long it takes to color your wood, but should be fine.
I would assume once a board is fumed it cannot be used for cutting boards??
Would have been cool to see exotics (zebra wood, purple heart etc) fumed for possible pen blanks... Also fuming mdf for a contrast!
Hmmm ... pen blanks, that would be cool to do.
WTH is Gary Oak? Never heard of it before, and googling just brings up a pokemon character.
Great video!! I wonder how long it would take for "regular" ammonia to get the same results?
Great question Felix, apparently you can use regular ammonia from the grocery store or hardware store, but it sounds like you need a couple of larger pans to get more of the ammonia out into air. As you can see I use about 1/4 cup ... I sounds like about around 64 oz. of the diluted ammonia should do the trick
+WoodWorkWeb thank you for the response.
do you leave it after or do you put a finish on it after? nice experiment well done thank you. how long did you leave them in the bag too?
I left mine in the bag for about 35 hours. I didn't change much after 25 hours, but it did get darker and yes, after you air out the wood for a couple of days or so a top finish is normally applied.
Cool! Do you just put the ammonia back in the bottle after fuming?
Yes I did, I didn't see that it would make any difference except to possible dilute the jug a tiny bit, but seemed the most logical thing to do.
Great, thank you... Since Ammonia is smelly, how about the wood after fuming?
Best to let it air out for 24 hours but even after only a few hours I could barely detect an odour
Suggested origin of fumed wood.....At some point long ago, horsemen and other animal breeders noticed that oak stored in a barn (or their barn walls made of oak), turned gray because of the ammonia from the animal's urine.
Thanks for the info Elliot
Thanks Colin for another great informative video. So did the duct tape not protect the wood from fuming? It would be good to know if it is possible to mask off areas while using this technique. Cheers from Oz.
The duct tape didn't work that well ... amazingly. I checked the wood after 8 hours and there was a lot of bleed so I just left it off ... good to you in oz .. ;)
Very interesting project. I'd never heard of it before. You showed us that it's necessary to use a mask, filter and glasses for safety.
How "toxic" is the wood after fuming. How long should it be in the open air after taking it out of the bag before one can work with it in the shop without mask, filter and glasses?
The wood should not be toxic at all, all the ammonia should leech out and just leave behind the change of color. Best to let the wood air out for a day after fuming. I noticed that with mine I could still smell a very faint smell after about 4 hours, not overwhelming at all, just a faint smell, a couple of days later there is no smell.
You need to be extremely careful about what vapor respirator you get. Most of the 3M half masks have the yellow Organic Vapor/Acid Gas cartridges. They do NOT protect against ammonia. 3M and MSA both make ammonia gas specific cartridges. You can also use the green GME/CBRN cartridges.
I work in the chemical industry and participate in HAZMAT response.
On thing that should be mentioned is do not, I repeat DO NOT, ever put ammonia into a container (a measuring cup or bucket for example) that has been used for chlorine bleach or vice-versa. They will react with even very little residue left from the prior contents and the reaction between the two is both exothermic (generates it's own heat) and produces toxic gases.
Yes, good to know., thank you for this
You have a way of making a short story long. That video should have been edited down to 3 minutes.