Craig Davies. I agree about this fellow. He knows what it is to get a saw sharp. Love that guide he uses. Wish I had one like it -- never seen one before. Way easier than these Italian made junk contraptions out there. And Stihl makes one that files teeth and raker depth at the same time, but have to be sized to the chain and pitch. They want $30 or so each and if it's as good as touted, it might be worth the investment -- anything to retire my clamp on italian junker.
@@robertshorthill4153 The Stihl 2 in one is made by Pferd. It is cheaper to buy it from Pferd. Well worth the price. It takes less than 5 minutes to file the chain and set thee rakers all at once.
I was sharpening my Husqvarna without a guide but took your advice and purchased the guide and new files. Made a huge difference in the cut of my saw! Thanks for the video and tips!
I want to commend you for a great instructional video. I have sharpened my chains in the past but now I only do so on a very rare occasion in the field. My chainsaw dealer and repairman keeps excellent matinance on my equipment and keeps my chains sharp as I have regular scheduled matinance days. You do a great job. I don't think I ever did it that well or as through.
Years ago, my dad’s old Homelite died, so I bought him a brand new McCullogh ProMac, since he needed a dependable saw for winter heat. After a few months, I asked him how the new saw was working out. His reply was that he’d never be cold because he worked up a hell of a sweat yanking on the rope.
excellent video! very informative, I've known how to properly sharpen a chain since I was young, but have always just guessed about how much to file off the depth set tooth (raker tooth) , I did not know there was an actual gauge for this. I ordered one and found I get much better results from my sharpening jobs. A note to add after watching, If you use a degreaser or solvent to remove any residual oil on the saw blade before filing your file will last much longer. As a tool and die maker / machinist, I know oil will cause the file to slip for the first stroke or two until the oil is pushed off by the file and this will cause it to dull. Be sure to re-oil the chain and bar before running the saw.
Great tutorial. I have several chains in my shed that have been used just once, so with these instructions I will be able to sharpen and reuse them. Great image, good definition on your video, so details of the filing can be clearly seen. Thank you both!
The old logger/saw mechanic who taught me how to sharpen a saw 35 years ago called the depth gaugers " drags".Good video boys good English too...Thanks!
I traveled to Sweden to get a 3/8 file kit from the Husqvarna store in Sunne. The drawings in the back are anything but self explanatory... now I know how to use the kit. Thanks guys!
Very well done, Guys! You answered so many of my questions. Like why I was only getting small chips no matter how sharp I got it and why I was not getting straight cuts. The saw always cuts from center starting out, but wanted to pull very hard towards my right leg at the end of my cuts. Thanks so much. Very well done!
You guys are producing really high quality show and tell instructionals. Nice job. Apparently, your brother is great at speaking for the camera, as you are, not just being an excellent tree worker. Your charisma and lack of arrogance is one of the reasons you have become a favorite. So many instructional youtubers are arrogant and self-righteous. He who thinks he knows the only right or best way can no longer learn. I also love your ethic towards appropriate technology (and not being so dependent on gadgets) and working with nature to minimize work and resources, not to mention being better to your land and animals. Thank you for your work and your channel.
Thank you brothers for your very inspirational and highly educational video. I have showed it to my husband and he was much impressed too. Now we need to find papers from our chain, to find out size and then purchase the sharpening set. No more dull chain, no more send the chain to sharpening service.
I really like the idea of having some type of instruction for first time chainsaw users. It is considered to be the most dangerous tool in shed. Great video, I was taught how to sharpen but turning the file is new to me. The next time I'm sharpening I'll include it.
Worst part is what everyone calls rakers arnt actually called rakers no clue what they r but it’s not actually rakers, but rakers are the best name and everyone says it anyways
Excellent. This is the best saw sharpening video i have seen. All your videos are clear and concise and easy to follow. I see I need to get the guides as I have always done it by hand and gotten poor results.
Great tips thanks. For many years I have just sat with the chainsaw between my legs and the chain slightly angled upwards, this is because I'm out in the woods a long way from my vice in the workshop and the angle was better for my bad back. So after watching your film this has clearly shown me the error of my ways, now all I need is one of the rolling guides.
Thank you for this very clear instruction on how to sharpen a chainsaw. I was apprehensive about sharpening mine (chainsaws can be so dangerous), but now I'll try to sharpen the chain myself. BTW, I really admire your English. It's your third language, and yet you know even slang and technical terms. Very impressive. (I could never speak Swedish nearly as well.)
Don't worry telling me how to sharpen a chainsaw. I own a poulan. They never get dull....nor do they start. I'll watch anyway. Just to see what it's like to have a running chainsaw. Wow listen to them. Yours sounds great. But I have nothing to compare it to except my poser poulan. Oak is very hard..... Not as hard as getting a poulan running. He was actually complaining about if you sharpen it improperly your saw will pull sideways. Poulan owners don't have that problem.....because they never start. And that's basically the only problem poulan owners ever have with their chainsaws. So poulan wins with less problems. What a great advertising gimic
My poulan is 17yrs old and still runs good. Yes it has been used over the past 17yrs! Infact it's running better than my huskie Rancher which must be a member of a Union. I say this because it works for awhile then stops working all together. Haha!
Have you tried a time and trusted measure I once saw. Change the name badge to a husky or an old Stihl, just do it secretly so the the saw doesn't know. Starts first time every time.
My Poulan turned 40 this year. Replaced the tired cylinder with a great shape used (gasket delete) and new piston rings just last month. It will keep with any saw in its 56cc range. Cheers...
Thanks for all the pointers, Tim. My dad got a Husqvarna a year ago and so far I've done most of the sawing and he has done the sharpening. After cutting up some beech yesterday the chain is in need of sharpening and I think I will give it a go with all this useful info.
I have had great success filing Stihl chains with this tool. The only difference I know between Stihl and Husqvarna chain is the guage of the chain. Stihl .325 pitch is .063 guage and Husqvarna .325 pitch is .050. Filing angles are both the same, 30 degrees. Files are the same size for both. It works well for me and I have used the 3/8 ' s tool from Husqvarna on 3/8' s Stihl chain with similar success. The tools are really easy to use in the field, I find. The only problem I have with the tools is that the plastic rollers wear out and I have not found replacements. Means buying new tool when this happens. Great video, THANKS!
Brilliant! Such a pleasure to see a thoughtfully-made video, showing the key points with good focus and framing, clear speech at a steady pace and no rambling off the point. The tips given as asides are also pertinent, and about right in number - more would have been....less.
Riktigt kul kanal ni har! Har nästan kollat alla era sågvids. så jag ska börja kika in resten också. Vi har ett sågverk hos svärfar som vi ska lära oss köra med och kunna ta hand om skogen själva. Jättekul! Så med mina nyvunna kunskaper, både från er och från att ha prövat hemma ska vi börja ta hand om vindfällor. Kör hårt!
Great tips guys, you covered prettymuch everything very well and your technique is perfect. A common problem is guys filing too hard which leaves a burr on the cutting edge, nobody ever checks or removes these. It won't have a good edge and will dull quickly if there's a burr on the tooth. The way to get rid of these is to VERY gently drag a back stroke at a high angle on the outside of the verticle cutting edge, then gently touch up the tooth as normal. If you're sharpening a badly damaged chain, like if it was cutting into dirt, you will ALWAYS have a burr that needs to be removed if you want a perfect edge. Something I like to do that I've never seen anyone else do is put some bar oil on the file. It lets your final strokes remove an even finer amount of material. Play around with it, you probably don't need to with such a fine technique but it would be interesting to see what results you can get that way.
I wouldn't suggest puting oil onto your file because all the metal shavings will get stuck onto your file. Secondly oily file does not remove material efficently. I personaly blast my files down with brake cleaner, just to remove any oil residue that has gotten onto it from regular sharpening. Usually after blasting em down, they'll be nice and grabby again. All of the bur will be gone once you put your chain into the wood.
I love the way you both demonstrated how to properly sharpen a chain saw and especially the brand you own. I have a Stihl, and two Poulan chain saws which is gas operated, and one battery operated Poulan Pro saw which I use also. The battery saw is the one which will probably need to be sharpened since the others have not been used since leaving the saw shop for repairs. Thanks for showing us how to sharpen our chains.
I wanted to take a moment to sincerely thank you guys for your brilliant and incisive tips on saws and wood cutting. In the last two years I have had to get up and going with some serious chainsaw work around my place to prevent damage and/or hazards to my place out in the country in the American southland. What I have found is that in a place like the USA many people just go out and buy themselves a new chain without ever understanding how to sharpen and maintain a saw chain as it should be. This means that most of them are spending a lot of money they shouldn't - and getting very poor performance from their equipment most of the time because they don't realize how dull their chain teeth are, when with a little knowledge and practice they could have saws that cut like nothing they have ever experienced before. As I told a friend of mine in the next house over from mine: "Once you have got used to sharping your saw - everyone else who sees you use it will think there is something almost supernatural about it because it cuts so crazily fast..."
Wow! So much NEW stuff I learn! I have never seen a gauge like that. It would have been so handy. The best we had when I first learned back in the early 70s was a piece of flat metal that attached to your file. The Ag teacher at school didn't like them so taught us his way first, then with the gauge. Oregon Chains were brand new at the time, too! I was taught to file from the other direction, too. This lowered the incidence of a burr occurring on the outside of the tooth.
I forgot the first thing I noticed and wanted to mention. IS oil the best lubricant to use on that? Wouldn't graphite be a better lube? It comes in an alcohol carrier that lets it get into the area it is needed and then evaporates leaving the graphite lube behind. Oil will hold onto the little bits of metal and dirt and become a grinding compound, yes?
Thanks guys where were you 40 years ago when i bought my first chainsaws???? Nah just kidding..It was a great video on sharpening chains.This would work with newbies on sharpening their own chains.It would take away some of the work load from me.It makes it so simple to do it right.
been sharpening my chains in this way for 30+ years - Dad said I had to learn to sharpen them before I could learn how to dull them. Once you develop a sense of feel for this, you can do an 18" chain in about 15 - 20 minutes ( unless you hit a rock) and they do come out sharp. There is a certain zen tot he file cutting the teeth - enjoy
Interesting guide you have there. I have never seen one like it. I do prefer my Oregon sharpener though. It has a stop so every tooth is sharpened exactly the same. The biggest mistake people make is not filing down the depth guide teeth. Am glad you covered that.
Thanks to this awesome video, I faced up to the chainsaw again. Purchased a new file kit for my husky as I have had real problems with the one that came with the saw. New one is 0.8mm smaller in diameter than the one that came with the saw itself! But is the one for the chain that my saw uses! No wonder I've struggled.
Thankyou!!! I learned a lot from this video especially importance of maintaining the riser height. You explained it very well. I had been sharpening the teeth OK for many years but never touched the risers. I guess this is why, even though well lubricated, my chains sometimes get very hot and go blunt quickly without having done much work. (20 year old Stihl 038 - ironbark, grey gum, blue gum, stringybark, and hard black wattles.) And I now know how to pronounce Husqvarna. - Pete, Australia
A nice straight forward lesson that even a DIY numpty could follow. My only question would be, why did you take the rakers down to the soft setting when you were going to cut Oak? Having said that yon lump of Oak was fairly well rotten for so far in. Thanks for the upload Lads
Brilliant video as usual, may i just as a matter of safety just point out that when you file a saw chain the tiny fragments of steel jump up about a foot 300mm and some people lean in to look at the filing , look after your eyes and gloves. You have a good channel first class.
Great video guys. I certainly need this skill as I move to my homestead and have lots of trees to cut. I was going to buy an electric sharpener with a file as a backup but now I think I'll just do it all manual. Thanks!
Excellent video. Probably the best one out there on this subject. Lots of fine points mentioned about the process which were highly useful. Thanks and best wishes from USA.
If you want a really good test, try cutting some Hickory. Some of the highest btu wood there is, but there's a reason they use it for tool handles. I don't use a file card on my saw files, but I tap the end of the file on a hard surface after every tooth. It vibrates a lot of the shavings out of the file teeth. I second the comment about using the chain brake. Great video guys!
I've tried this way and heLL the chain is way more sharper than with 4.8(3/16) fiLe..i wiLL be keep on using the 4.5 fiLes on my 0. 325 sawchains..thanks a Lot guys..greetings from Bosnia
Nice video guys. I've logged 50 yers. Arthritis in my hands has made it difficult for me to manually file my chins. Pferd makes an awesome tool that makes it a no brainer. It's called the CS-X. Stihl also has one. It also cuts the drags perfectly. You need to use it with stump vice. Try it.I was amazed! Be safe.
I am working for 40 years now with stihl motorsägen, have about 30 pieces, I have never cut a depth limiter, and my chains are always sharp and swchneiden fast and cleanly
Very good instructional video. One point however. I prefer to sharpen my chains off the saw so metal filings do not wind up down in the saw bar chain groove. Bar oil, being very sticky, will hold onto these little bits of metal and will ride around the groove and accelerate bar wear. If I do have to sharpen on the saw, I use compressed air,if available to blow clear any filings left behind. Great channel, keep up the good work.
Simeon I think you will find that the .325 guide that is used in your video will work on all .325 chains. I tend to use the Stihl 2 in 1 file as it sharpens the tooth perfectly but it also keeps the rakers in check. Also I think you will find a vast difference if you switch over the Stihl chains. I am often asked to spin some stihl chains for people with husqvarna saws. Great video as always!
i had to sharpen 2 or 3 chains at a time,every time. it takes too long to do it with a file, and sometimes the teeth are so damaged that (sharpening by hand) can drive you crazy. so the sharpening machine was the answer, but with the(regular) grinding stones the quality of cutting edge was not what i wanted. so i began to use 2 stones, one with big grit for sharpening and one with very fine grit for just "polishing" the edge. changing the discs takes me 20- 30 seconds. P.S. like your videos, keep doing. and sorry for my broken English.
Awesome video, thank you! I never knew about the roller chain guides until I saw this. Great to know how to get your chains as sharp as possible. Can't wait to get one of the roller guides and give it a go :-)
a great video on the sharpening of a chain. this was very informative. I learned a lot watching this video......I have sharpened saws but I have been doing it wrong.....now maybe I will be able to do it correctly....thanks....
I found it really funny that while filing the rakers you had the tool at the back and bottom of the cutting tooth. Then I watched again and realised you're using a different type of tool, which seems to take more off than the tools I am able to get where I am. Then I thought about the fact that I could just use a steel ruler in a similar manner to check height providing I put it at the right spot behind the teeth. Then I decided to just ask you for the dimensions of that tool so I can make my own. Then I thought never mind, I will just use a steel ruler and take measurements to build a tool around it. Then I decided to just file the tool I already use down a bit. Good video by the way.
My name is Anders Raiha, born in Tranus Sweden. I always watch videos from my homeland. Thankyou . I am sawmill owner and sawyer in America, proud to be Svensk The non cutting tooth behind the cutter is called a raker, designed to rake,like raking leaves or pine needles in your yard.It has 2 purposes, remove shavings from the cut, and keep the depth of cut under control.Your sharpening tips for in the forest are really great, and I will use them, but Americans in general have no patience, they would rather sharpen many times wrongly, than once correctly.I hope this review is no offensive, If you find it to be so.
Swedish You Tubers, you guys are taking over !! Great videos Simeon, congrats on 2500 subs in a week !! I grew up helping out on a mixed farm in Canada, a 2000 head feedlot. Your zero till methods are superior and the model for the future !
Thanks for the video it’s very useful for a self taught chainsaw operator like myself. Shouldn’t we let the saw idle for 30 seconds after cutting before shutting the motor off?
In the USA the term for when a chain isn't cutting straight is slicing. Caused usually by one side of the chain being sharper than the other as you rightly said. Good video
Thanks Guys🇦🇺🤠👍 I had an Arbourest show me how remove the filings left over on the chain before use. He started it and pointed it down, about an inch above a flat surface, then revved it at high speed, slowly moving it backwards until you see no more filing in your bar oil line. This way you won't blunten your chain so quick on the first cut.👍
Very good video. I am going to look for a file guide like that. Right now I am just freehanding by the line on the chain with good results but this looks much more efficient. Also the gauge that I have for filling the rakers sets on top of the teeth and makes the top of the raker flat. Interesting difference.
I use a stihl ms250c but I like husquavarna s too . I have an old mccullogh that is a back up and really not a fan of the 250c easy start because of the delay but pulling that string is easy and nice . Once I got used to it , first chain went through 5 feet of root from a root ball and there was no saving that one and I have an Oregon chain in the package still so I'm ready for the next tree I get a call for . The last one uprooted a 20 ft ball at the corner of a fence and had the chain link fence 20 ft in the air , stretched about 80 feet of chain link and uprooted 4 posts but it all went back together eventually . To get the fence down I got in top of the tree made a 1/3 straight cut then wedge cut at bottom being careful using the tip to get that ball and fence down . It was the best / coolest tree call I have to date
Yup he does it right. Doesnt need a guide. I was taught to use a file and that's it. No pansy ass guide needed. This guy here makes sharpening a chain more difficult than it needs to be. You dont need a gauge!
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You two are a great team. The teaching is excellent, Swedish people are amazing and the Husqvarna machines are the best design and build I have found.
Craig Davies. I agree about this fellow. He knows what it is to get a saw sharp. Love that guide he uses. Wish I had one like it -- never seen one before. Way easier than these Italian made junk contraptions out there. And Stihl makes one that files teeth and raker depth at the same time, but have to be sized to the chain and pitch. They want $30 or so each and if it's as good as touted, it might be worth the investment -- anything to retire my clamp on italian junker.
@@robertshorthill4153 The Stihl 2 in one is made by Pferd. It is cheaper to buy it from Pferd. Well worth the price. It takes less than 5 minutes to file the chain and set thee rakers all at once.
I was sharpening my Husqvarna without a guide but took your advice and purchased the guide and new files. Made a huge difference in the cut of my saw! Thanks for the video and tips!
I want to commend you for a great instructional video. I have sharpened my chains in the past but now I only do so on a very rare occasion in the field. My chainsaw dealer and repairman keeps excellent matinance on my equipment and keeps my chains sharp as I have regular scheduled matinance days. You do a great job. I don't think I ever did it that well or as through.
Years ago, my dad’s old Homelite died, so I bought him a brand new McCullogh ProMac, since he needed a dependable saw for winter heat. After a few months, I asked him how the new saw was working out. His reply was that he’d never be cold because he worked up a hell of a sweat yanking on the rope.
excellent video! very informative, I've known how to properly sharpen a chain since I was young, but have always just guessed about how much to file off the depth set tooth (raker tooth) , I did not know there was an actual gauge for this. I ordered one and found I get much better results from my sharpening jobs. A note to add after watching, If you use a degreaser or solvent to remove any residual oil on the saw blade before filing your file will last much longer. As a tool and die maker / machinist, I know oil will cause the file to slip for the first stroke or two until the oil is pushed off by the file and this will cause it to dull. Be sure to re-oil the chain and bar before running the saw.
Great tutorial. I have several chains in my shed that have been used just once, so with these instructions I will be able to sharpen and reuse them. Great image, good definition on your video, so details of the filing can be clearly seen. Thank you both!
You two are as professional as it gets!
The old logger/saw mechanic who taught me how to sharpen a saw 35 years ago called the depth gaugers " drags".Good video boys good English too...Thanks!
we call them rakers
I traveled to Sweden to get a 3/8 file kit from the Husqvarna store in Sunne. The drawings in the back are anything but self explanatory... now I know how to use the kit. Thanks guys!
Very well done, Guys! You answered so many of my questions. Like why I was only getting small chips no matter how sharp I got it and why I was not getting straight cuts. The saw always cuts from center starting out, but wanted to pull very hard towards my right leg at the end of my cuts. Thanks so much. Very well done!
Tim is an excellent instructor. Great explanation on sharpening chainsaw blade. Thank you Simeon and Tim.
You guys are producing really high quality show and tell instructionals. Nice job. Apparently, your brother is great at speaking for the camera, as you are, not just being an excellent tree worker. Your charisma and lack of arrogance is one of the reasons you have become a favorite. So many instructional youtubers are arrogant and self-righteous. He who thinks he knows the only right or best way can no longer learn. I also love your ethic towards appropriate technology (and not being so dependent on gadgets) and working with nature to minimize work and resources, not to mention being better to your land and animals. Thank you for your work and your channel.
Thank you for the feed back. That's awesome. Glad you like it.
Swedish Homestead more of Tim in your videos, for sure.
I use those same chains and guides on my 288 xp , it,s never dull with those tips and tools !
Thank you brothers for your very inspirational and highly educational video. I have showed it to my husband and he was much impressed too. Now we need to find papers from our chain, to find out size and then purchase the sharpening set. No more dull chain, no more send the chain to sharpening service.
I really like the idea of having some type of instruction for first time chainsaw users. It is considered to be the most dangerous tool in shed. Great video, I was taught how to sharpen but turning the file is new to me. The next time I'm sharpening I'll include it.
WE CALL THOSE THINGS "RAKERS". YOU GUYS ARE GREAT. THANKS
Worst part is what everyone calls rakers arnt actually called rakers no clue what they r but it’s not actually rakers, but rakers are the best name and everyone says it anyways
Tak! Great description of what is important in sharpening these chains!
Excellent. This is the best saw sharpening video i have seen. All your videos are clear and concise and easy to follow. I see I need to get the guides as I have always done it by hand and gotten poor results.
The best sharpening video. Thanks for getting the camera angle in close enough so we can see what you're doing. Excellent video!
Thank you! This is best tutorial I have seen. You explained stuff very well.
Great tips thanks. For many years I have just sat with the chainsaw between my legs and the chain slightly angled upwards,
this is because I'm out in the woods a long way from my vice in the workshop and the angle was better for my bad back.
So after watching your film this has clearly shown me the error of my ways, now all I need is one of the rolling guides.
Thank you for this very clear instruction on how to sharpen a chainsaw. I was apprehensive about sharpening mine (chainsaws can be so dangerous), but now I'll try to sharpen the chain myself.
BTW, I really admire your English. It's your third language, and yet you know even slang and technical terms. Very impressive. (I could never speak Swedish nearly as well.)
GREAT VIDEO, both of you did a very good job and explained in detail for all to understand. Thank you, from North Michigan, USA
Excellent tutorial. Video detail, and technique, were well-presented. Thank you! Pete.
Don't worry telling me how to sharpen a chainsaw. I own a poulan. They never get dull....nor do they start.
I'll watch anyway. Just to see what it's like to have a running chainsaw. Wow listen to them. Yours sounds great. But I have nothing to compare it to except my poser poulan.
Oak is very hard.....
Not as hard as getting a poulan running.
He was actually complaining about if you sharpen it improperly your saw will pull sideways.
Poulan owners don't have that problem.....because they never start.
And that's basically the only problem poulan owners ever have with their chainsaws.
So poulan wins with less problems.
What a great advertising gimic
My poulan is 17yrs old and still runs good. Yes it has been used over the past 17yrs! Infact it's running better than my huskie Rancher which must be a member of a Union. I say this because it works for awhile then stops working all together. Haha!
Have you tried a time and trusted measure I once saw. Change the name badge to a husky or an old Stihl, just do it secretly so the the saw doesn't know. Starts first time every time.
@@lancehenthorn17 I bet it gets better pay than the Poulan
@@fivestring65ify I got smart and bought a Echo CS-490 20in bar. Runs like a top. More than I can about my husky. As for the Poulan still runs smooth!
My Poulan turned 40 this year. Replaced the tired cylinder with a great shape used (gasket delete) and new piston rings just last month. It will keep with any saw in its 56cc range. Cheers...
Definitely the best explanation of the process i have seen ; many thanks for posting
I did not know about that type of saw tooth gauge. Very good instructions. Thank you.
Thanks for all the pointers, Tim. My dad got a Husqvarna a year ago and so far I've done most of the sawing and he has done the sharpening. After cutting up some beech yesterday the chain is in need of sharpening and I think I will give it a go with all this useful info.
Go for it! Thanks for the feed back.
I have had great success filing Stihl chains with this tool. The only difference I know between Stihl and Husqvarna chain is the guage of the chain. Stihl .325 pitch is .063 guage and Husqvarna .325 pitch is .050. Filing angles are both the same, 30 degrees. Files are the same size for both. It works well for me and I have used the 3/8 ' s tool from Husqvarna on 3/8' s Stihl chain with similar success.
The tools are really easy to use in the field, I find.
The only problem I have with the tools is that the plastic rollers wear out and I have not found replacements. Means buying new tool when this happens.
Great video, THANKS!
Brilliant! Such a pleasure to see a thoughtfully-made video, showing the key points with good focus and framing, clear speech at a steady pace and no rambling off the point. The tips given as asides are also pertinent, and about right in number - more would have been....less.
Riktigt kul kanal ni har! Har nästan kollat alla era sågvids. så jag ska börja kika in resten också. Vi har ett sågverk hos svärfar som vi ska lära oss köra med och kunna ta hand om skogen själva. Jättekul! Så med mina nyvunna kunskaper, både från er och från att ha prövat hemma ska vi börja ta hand om vindfällor. Kör hårt!
Great tips guys, you covered prettymuch everything very well and your technique is perfect. A common problem is guys filing too hard which leaves a burr on the cutting edge, nobody ever checks or removes these. It won't have a good edge and will dull quickly if there's a burr on the tooth. The way to get rid of these is to VERY gently drag a back stroke at a high angle on the outside of the verticle cutting edge, then gently touch up the tooth as normal. If you're sharpening a badly damaged chain, like if it was cutting into dirt, you will ALWAYS have a burr that needs to be removed if you want a perfect edge.
Something I like to do that I've never seen anyone else do is put some bar oil on the file. It lets your final strokes remove an even finer amount of material. Play around with it, you probably don't need to with such a fine technique but it would be interesting to see what results you can get that way.
I wouldn't suggest puting oil onto your file because all the metal shavings will get stuck onto your file. Secondly oily file does not remove material efficently.
I personaly blast my files down with brake cleaner, just to remove any oil residue that has gotten onto it from regular sharpening. Usually after blasting em down, they'll be nice and grabby again. All of the bur will be gone once you put your chain into the wood.
even without reading the positive comments. I knew you Guys explained the sharpening very well.Thank you very much for the video and God Bless!
I love the way you both demonstrated how to properly sharpen a chain saw and especially the brand you own. I have a Stihl, and two Poulan chain saws which is gas operated, and one battery operated Poulan Pro saw which I use also. The battery saw is the one which will probably need to be sharpened since the others have not been used since leaving the saw shop for repairs. Thanks for showing us how to sharpen our chains.
Thanks I always wanted to know how to sharpen my chainsaw correctly. keep up the great work.
excellent video; very well presented;in perfect English. Many thanks
thankyou for a no-nonsense video, concise. and straight to the point
I wanted to take a moment to sincerely thank you guys for your brilliant and incisive tips on saws and wood cutting. In the last two years I have had to get up and going with some serious chainsaw work around my place to prevent damage and/or hazards to my place out in the country in the American southland. What I have found is that in a place like the USA many people just go out and buy themselves a new chain without ever understanding how to sharpen and maintain a saw chain as it should be. This means that most of them are spending a lot of money they shouldn't - and getting very poor performance from their equipment most of the time because they don't realize how dull their chain teeth are, when with a little knowledge and practice they could have saws that cut like nothing they have ever experienced before. As I told a friend of mine in the next house over from mine: "Once you have got used to sharping your saw - everyone else who sees you use it will think there is something almost supernatural about it because it cuts so crazily fast..."
Exactly, we don't know how to cut trees in the US.
In SC we use bulldozers mostly.
Wow! So much NEW stuff I learn! I have never seen a gauge like that. It would have been so handy. The best we had when I first learned back in the early 70s was a piece of flat metal that attached to your file. The Ag teacher at school didn't like them so taught us his way first, then with the gauge. Oregon Chains were brand new at the time, too!
I was taught to file from the other direction, too. This lowered the incidence of a burr occurring on the outside of the tooth.
I forgot the first thing I noticed and wanted to mention. IS oil the best lubricant to use on that? Wouldn't graphite be a better lube? It comes in an alcohol carrier that lets it get into the area it is needed and then evaporates leaving the graphite lube behind. Oil will hold onto the little bits of metal and dirt and become a grinding compound, yes?
Thanks guys where were you 40 years ago when i bought my first chainsaws???? Nah just kidding..It was a great video on sharpening chains.This would work with newbies on sharpening their own chains.It would take away some of the work load from me.It makes it so simple to do it right.
Well explained Simeon and Tim
been sharpening my chains in this way for 30+ years - Dad said I had to learn to sharpen them before I could learn how to dull them.
Once you develop a sense of feel for this, you can do an 18" chain in about 15 - 20 minutes ( unless you hit a rock) and they do come out sharp.
There is a certain zen tot he file cutting the teeth - enjoy
5 minutes to do an 18" and about 8 to do a 20". What are you doing? LOL
Guys, this was very informative. Please continue to educate folks. Great job!
Interesting guide you have there. I have never seen one like it. I do prefer my Oregon sharpener though. It has a stop so every tooth is sharpened exactly the same. The biggest mistake people make is not filing down the depth guide teeth. Am glad you covered that.
Thanks to this awesome video, I faced up to the chainsaw again. Purchased a new file kit for my husky as I have had real problems with the one that came with the saw. New one is 0.8mm smaller in diameter than the one that came with the saw itself! But is the one for the chain that my saw uses! No wonder I've struggled.
thanks, because of your video i ordered the same exact husqvarna kit and dept gauge!
Thankyou!!! I learned a lot from this video especially importance of maintaining the riser height. You explained it very well. I had been sharpening the teeth OK for many years but never touched the risers. I guess this is why, even though well lubricated, my chains sometimes get very hot and go blunt quickly without having done much work. (20 year old Stihl 038 - ironbark, grey gum, blue gum, stringybark, and hard black wattles.) And I now know how to pronounce Husqvarna. - Pete, Australia
Thank you, now I know how to properly sharpen my chain saw.
I have that exact same "Clean up after yourself" sign by my workbench. Haha. Wonderful video. Thanks.
Thank you. You showed exactly how you do it and how important the numbers and angles are.
A nice straight forward lesson that even a DIY numpty could follow. My only question would be, why did you take the rakers down to the soft setting when you were going to cut Oak? Having said that yon lump of Oak was fairly well rotten for so far in. Thanks for the upload Lads
That's sharp !! Thanks ! I'm in the Ozark mountains cuttin' firewood. Gotta keep that chain sharp . I cut mostly oak .
Red Dog west fork AR here!
Teaching a girl! You guys are awesome! ❤️
excellent explanation... you guys make it so easy to understand.
Brilliant video as usual, may i just as a matter of safety just point out that when you file a saw chain the tiny fragments of steel jump up about a foot 300mm and some people lean in to look at the filing , look after your eyes and gloves. You have a good channel first class.
Excellent - I learnt a lot.
Many thanks......all the way from London !
Great video guys. I certainly need this skill as I move to my homestead and have lots of trees to cut. I was going to buy an electric sharpener with a file as a backup but now I think I'll just do it all manual. Thanks!
Those electric file things are shit. Don't waste your money. Either learn to file by hand or have it done on a quality grinder.
I figured. That's why I already got my sharpening tools like Simeon has. Can't wait to learn to do it properly.
Very clear instructions on sharpening the chain. Thank you
Excellent video. Probably the best one out there on this subject. Lots of fine points mentioned about the process which were highly useful. Thanks and best wishes from USA.
I like the detail and thorough explanation. Thank you for a well done video. I am off to buy a file and depth gauge.
If you want a really good test, try cutting some Hickory. Some of the highest btu wood there is, but there's a reason they use it for tool handles.
I don't use a file card on my saw files, but I tap the end of the file on a hard surface after every tooth. It vibrates a lot of the shavings out of the file teeth.
I second the comment about using the chain brake.
Great video guys!
We can tell that's a very sharp chain just by the way the chainsaw is PULLING through the oak. Good job Tim!
Very, very good video.
I learnt a lot. Many thanks from London.
I've tried this way and heLL the chain is way more sharper than with 4.8(3/16) fiLe..i wiLL be keep on using the 4.5 fiLes on my 0. 325 sawchains..thanks a Lot guys..greetings from Bosnia
What a great video! I'd imagine those Swedish winters give you plenty of time for sharpening!
Oh Yes. But it is during the winter time when you go out in the forest...
Thanks very clearly explained
Gives me confidence to have a go now
Nice video guys. I've logged 50 yers. Arthritis in my hands has made it difficult for me to manually file my chins. Pferd makes an awesome tool that makes it a no brainer. It's called the CS-X. Stihl also has one. It also cuts the drags perfectly. You need to use it with stump vice. Try it.I was amazed! Be safe.
fig1954
wow! that's a sharp chain! gonna have to find me a proper little sharpening rig. love how those rollers keep the file nice and level.
I am working for 40 years now with stihl motorsägen, have about 30 pieces, I have never cut a depth limiter, and my chains are always sharp and swchneiden fast and cleanly
Very good instructional video.
One point however. I prefer to sharpen my chains off the saw so metal filings do not wind up down in the saw bar chain groove. Bar oil, being very sticky, will hold onto these little bits of metal and will ride around the groove and accelerate bar wear.
If I do have to sharpen on the saw, I use compressed air,if available to blow clear any filings left behind.
Great channel, keep up the good work.
Simeon I think you will find that the .325 guide that is used in your video will work on all .325 chains. I tend to use the Stihl 2 in 1 file as it sharpens the tooth perfectly but it also keeps the rakers in check. Also I think you will find a vast difference if you switch over the Stihl chains. I am often asked to spin some stihl chains for people with husqvarna saws. Great video as always!
Interesting. Thanks for sharing.
Very informative thanks very much from the UK
i had to sharpen 2 or 3 chains at a time,every time. it takes too long to do it with a file, and sometimes the teeth are so damaged that (sharpening by hand) can drive you crazy. so the sharpening machine was the answer, but with the(regular) grinding stones the quality of cutting edge was not what i wanted. so i began to use 2 stones, one with big grit for sharpening and one with very fine grit for just "polishing" the edge. changing the discs takes me 20- 30 seconds.
P.S. like your videos, keep doing. and sorry for my broken English.
Can I just borrow your brother?
Awesome video, thank you! I never knew about the roller chain guides until I saw this. Great to know how to get your chains as sharp as possible. Can't wait to get one of the roller guides and give it a go :-)
a great video on the sharpening of a chain. this was very informative. I learned a lot watching this video......I have sharpened saws but I have been doing it wrong.....now maybe I will be able to do it correctly....thanks....
A neodymium magnet in a plastic bag works well to clean metal filings from files. Great videos!
Fantastic, this is just what I needed to see. Thanks for the very concise instruction.
You guys are awsome.. Rakers or depth gauges are always in question if a set is not used. Thanks for your insight.
Excellent video - I learned a lot, thank you very much
I sharpen my saws exactly the same way on a Stihl. It is a good idea to check the diameter of the file to ensure it is the optimal one.
Thank You great video, nice to see a proper instructional video instead of all those cowboy ones, best wishes from Ireland.
I found it really funny that while filing the rakers you had the tool at the back and bottom of the cutting tooth. Then I watched again and realised you're using a different type of tool, which seems to take more off than the tools I am able to get where I am. Then I thought about the fact that I could just use a steel ruler in a similar manner to check height providing I put it at the right spot behind the teeth. Then I decided to just ask you for the dimensions of that tool so I can make my own. Then I thought never mind, I will just use a steel ruler and take measurements to build a tool around it. Then I decided to just file the tool I already use down a bit. Good video by the way.
Great yet simple demo .Take it on board.
My name is Anders Raiha, born in Tranus Sweden. I always watch videos from my homeland. Thankyou . I am sawmill owner and sawyer in America, proud to be Svensk
The non cutting tooth behind the cutter is called a raker, designed to rake,like raking leaves or pine needles in your yard.It has 2 purposes, remove shavings from the cut, and keep the depth of cut under control.Your sharpening tips for in the forest are really great, and I will use them, but Americans in general have no patience, they would rather sharpen many times wrongly, than once correctly.I hope this review is no offensive, If you find it to be so.
Good Video. I will sharpen my chains that way. Thanks.
Swedish You Tubers, you guys are taking over !! Great videos Simeon, congrats on 2500 subs in a week !! I grew up helping out on a mixed farm in Canada, a 2000 head feedlot. Your zero till methods are superior and the model for the future !
Thanks.
crazy sharp to go through the oak like that when sharpened and set for soft wood. Nice job.
Great job guys, very helpful for many people, I'm sure!
Thanks for the video it’s very useful for a self taught chainsaw operator like myself. Shouldn’t we let the saw idle for 30 seconds after cutting before shutting the motor off?
Great technique! I enjoy your videos and this was no exception. Nicely done, very professional....
I use the same cradle I have a husky also. Those sharpening cradles work great.
Thank you for the video, I did not realize my rakers were supposed to be on that angle
Great information. Enjoyed having your brother along.............
In the USA the term for when a chain isn't cutting straight is slicing. Caused usually by one side of the chain being sharper than the other as you rightly said. Good video
Isn’t it more that teeth on one side were filed down more (over time) than the other side; not necessarily sharper.
Or the bar being unevenly worn.
Thanks Guys🇦🇺🤠👍
I had an Arbourest show me how remove the filings left over on the chain before use. He started it and pointed it down, about an inch above a flat surface, then revved it at high speed, slowly moving it backwards until you see no more filing in your bar oil line. This way you won't blunten your chain so quick on the first cut.👍
Very good video. I am going to look for a file guide like that. Right now I am just freehanding by the line on the chain with good results but this looks much more efficient.
Also the gauge that I have for filling the rakers sets on top of the teeth and makes the top of the raker flat.
Interesting difference.
Very professional. An outstanding video. I just had to subscribe after watching that. Thank you.........
I use a stihl ms250c but I like husquavarna s too . I have an old mccullogh that is a back up and really not a fan of the 250c easy start because of the delay but pulling that string is easy and nice . Once I got used to it , first chain went through 5 feet of root from a root ball and there was no saving that one and I have an Oregon chain in the package still so I'm ready for the next tree I get a call for . The last one uprooted a 20 ft ball at the corner of a fence and had the chain link fence 20 ft in the air , stretched about 80 feet of chain link and uprooted 4 posts but it all went back together eventually . To get the fence down I got in top of the tree made a 1/3 straight cut then wedge cut at bottom being careful using the tip to get that ball and fence down . It was the best / coolest tree call I have to date
Watch Buckin Billy Ray . He showed a way of sharpening which i have used ever since seeing it and it is brilliant . Just a file.
Buckins awesome isn't he bud...be kind :-)
She cut's, eh!
Which video of Billy's are you refering to?
Buckingham Billie ray
Yup he does it right. Doesnt need a guide. I was taught to use a file and that's it. No pansy ass guide needed. This guy here makes sharpening a chain more difficult than it needs to be. You dont need a gauge!