Great job on the video. After watching I did the brakes myself. Saved me a few bucks as the mechanic wanted some huge coin to do the brakes. Thanks for sharing.
Good vid I like the way you stopped and reset the camera to a different position before moving on. I also really like how you set the jack stand with the jack back up very smart! Very well filmed and excellent teaching along the way! Thank you, I learned a lot.
Although not a perfect video, he has done a great job of capturing some smaller points that are critical to know, but are skipped right over in most other related videos. For example, he rightfully points out that what appears to be a bushing behind the two 12 MM bolts holding the caliper are actually nuts although they only have two flat sides instead of the typical six. Great job!
Just 2 things otherwise it was a great video. If you have drum brakes only or a setup like this always check the parking brake resistance by installing drum or drum/rotor setup (like in the video), install a few lugs all the way down to hold whichever it is you have and push the pedal down about 5-7 clicks and see if you can rotate the setup, if you cant then your good, if you can readjust. also i would suggest using a flat-tip on those adjusters not a pair of pliers.
Great video. I needed to learn about this combo brake that has discs for normal stopping and drum for parking brake. My comments: 1. Use locktite on yellow bolts not antiseize. I normally would not take those bolts off cause the lock title is tuff and you can do this job on most brakes by just removing the two back bolts. 2. Put brake grease on metal side of pads. Not absolutely necessary but can prevent brake squeal. Thanks
It's good to finally see a mechanic video on You Tube where anti-seize has been used. It's the mechanics friend, especially if you are working on your own stuff. If you just take off one caliper bolt you can just rotate the caliper out of the bracket to change pads. Make a calculated choice on which bolt, make sure you have enough brake line length to rotate enough to get pads in/out. I do know you were already planning to take all the caliper and mount bracket out of the way. This comment was FYI for you and others. I watched a video yesterday where the guy was changing pads and took off the caliper bracket with the caliper still on it to change them. Yeesh! Good job on the video, I'll be doing this job soon on my S-10 ZR2. I drove 50 miles with E Brake on one particularly bad day.
I'm not sure if it was mentioned during the video but I found out that on a 98 Blazer you only have to adjust the left rear PB. I found out the hard way by attempting to adjust the right rear and it's not possible. The whole video on this was excellent and very helpful.
great video! I love your instructions as well as your close ups! thanks for having plenty of light for your video; too often, people are doing videos and they are so dark, noisy, and full of cursing that you're like what's the point! so I commend you for having a great video. I am a female and your instructions were so good that I'm going to give it a try! thank you!
Finally a GREAT TUTORIAL on Silverado/Sierra e brakes on YT, thanks for taking the time and patiently step by step explain the process to get it done. Kudos boss ✌️👍🙏🏻👏
Nice job. I really appreciated the thorough explanations at each step. I particularly appreciated the very clear close-ups -- nice camera work there! I am having trouble getting the rotor off because, i think, the emergency brake is so jacked that it's keeping the rotor from sliding off. It's loose, but hanging up bad. Your close-ups are very helpful at showing me what I'm supposed to be seeing. The close-up on the adjuster was awesome.
I just take the entire brake caliper assembly off, even if I were just changing pads. Also, I think that yellow "anti-sieze" compound is actually thread lock compound. That's why these screws are so hard to break loose. (Anti-sieze compound is usually either silver or copper colored.)
oscar madison I agree. No need to disassemble the caliper. Just loosen the mounting bolts and remove the assembly. And yes, that is thread locking compound, not anti-seize :)
Worth noting is a coat of Loctite holds fasteners but stops moisture intrusion. The stock "dot" is sheared on removal so I use the gel (for convenience so it doesn't run off) on reinstallation.
Well done! Thanks for the explanations as you went along. I’m about to replace my emergency brakes, and now I know what kind of resistance I should expect to feel when re-installing the rotors over the emergency brake pads. I just hope I don’t have to take apart that adjustment cylinder to clean and lube it before installing the pads. Again, well done!
There is a little hole in the back to adjust the PB, no need to even take off Tire. Just jack it up to spin the wheel.... Little hole in back, stick in a flat screw driver and turn the left side down to tighten, and turn the right side up to tighten.
Just my .02 from a lesson learned, don’t use a cheap C-clamp. Had the head of mine pop off the threaded arm and played hell getting it out of the caliper. Good video!
Thanks bro! Good shots on the video during brake shoe adjustment. It took me a bit to find yours.. as it directly applies to my 2001 silverado 1500. . To the comment about the guy who mentioned the brakes being self adjustable.. theyre not..They may have been intended to work that way. but they don"t work. The haynes manual tells you to do it exactly like my man said. .And another comment was made about being able to adjust from behind the wheel without doing this procedure.. Good luck with that.. on some vehicles this is possible. but on mine , the left brake lever and spring are at the top of the backing plate so getting in between that and the leaf spring which is only about 4 in away makes it to where you cant see what your doing. Also there was mention that pushing the piston in probably isnt a good idea without using the bleeder screw. He's prob right. I didnt think about that before. Ur just pushing dirty fluid back to the reservoir. But if you are going to do it that way .Push the piston in using a c-clamp ( and a piece of wood, or something so the piston doesnt get damaged). It's a good idea to keep an eye on your master cylinder level while your doing it. It will fill up. Manual says to pull fluid out of it before hand. Thanks again Red Raider for the great vid. I will be doing mine exactly how u did urs tomorrow. !!..If you dive into anything else before I do...Hook me up!.. lol
Thank you so much for this video, it fixed my parking brakes on my 07 Chevy Impala. The parking brakes never worked. And I searched for a video in the past. I did exactly what you said, and thanks to all your detailed information it works perfect now. Thank you
Love the video man. Unlike a lot of vids, you took the time to explain we’ll. I’ve found on pushing the piston back in, if your changing pads? Use one of the old pads over the piston then the c-clamp. It’s just helps to keep from any damage on the piston. Again thanks man!
If you are just working on the parking brake and not changing pads, just remove the caliper bracket bolts and remove the brake as an assembly. Much less labor ;)
Nicely done. The only thing I would interject is to Never push a brake caliber piston in like that. Always place a plate across it then the c clamp on top of that. Some caliber pistons screw in and by placing the clamp inside the piston as you show could fuck it up.
Very good. Will be doing rear pads on 99 S10 again. Wanted a refresher on how caliper mounts to bracket. This leads to a new question for me, why should the parking brake pads ever need to be replaced? I assumed they stay retracted with zero contact 99% of the time, only being applied when parking and not moving. Why the need to replace?
Sometimes people forget to release their parking brake, and then start driving away with a small amount of pressure still engaged...wearing down the pad..
The caliper pins a 16mm is equivalent to 5/8". Also if your truck is as rusty as my '05 hitting the caliper pin bolts & caliper bracket bolts with some penetrating oil is a must. I also had to use heat on the bracket bolts to get 'em loose. Even if your not adjusting or rebuildingbthe e-brake it is worth the bit of time to go clean & lube up the actuator & contact surfaces.
I thought you could "expand" the parking brake assembly through a slot in the backing plate....turning the star wheel with a flat blade screwdriver until you get resistance while turning the rotor/drum without taking everything apart.
@@rareform6747 Yea I have the same brakes in my 04 sierra and no inspection hole/adjust.......I really think a error in design. I had a 96 sierra with them and drums only and was a much superior rear brake for service and power. Gm went back to the drums only in 05 and 06 (GMT800) Its a trick setup.
Excellent instruction Red Raider. Thanks. One edit I would recommend...at 11:00 minutes in, you showed the lower bracket which holds shoe in place, but at 17:00 minutes in, after you demonstrated how much to adjust the parking brake shoe by spinning the wheel (excellent instruction), you forgot to RE-TIGHTEN that lower shoe clip. Maybe just type some script onto the screen, reminding the view to tighten that bracket before sliding the snug rotor back on. Thanks again RR. Awesome job!
Great video, thanks for the help. I noticed on mine when fitting the rotor for resistance it would catch the parking brake shoes a little too much and pull them out of line so I had to tap them back in place to get the rotor on straight. other than that it was a good project with no hiccups
One quick question I didn't see you put any a nice he's on those big boats on the back of that caliper bracket and also aren't you supposed to grease that the two bolts 12 mm ones that go inside the caliper that doesn't that have to be greased or something
If you don't have a c-clamp for backing--up the piston you can use large channel-lock pliers. If you've been adding brake fluid, might want to remove some of it before backing the pistons up to prevent spill over in the master cyl reservoir. Question - - can't this park brake be adjusted from outside with a common screwdriver? Back in the drum brake days, you could adjust the brakes that way. Not so sure now.
+q7wasp7 I looked carefully at the mechanism after taking it apart. The parking brakes cannot be adjusted without removing the parking brake rotor-drum and doing it from the inside. "Bad design" but then that's GM for you.
I believe that these are self adjusting. If you work the parking brake several times initially and then periodically there is no need for this. The knurled nut has a armature below that moves it each time you apply the brake.
+macklandtube That is correct. Every time you press the brake pedal when driving in reverse the brake will self-adjust. If however, the emergency brake pedal goes to the floor or the emergency brake will not hold the vehicle on a hill then you must use this procedure to adjust or replace the emergency brake shoe. Excellent video RR.
Thank u so much for this video, I have a cadillac cts that e brake went to the floor and still barely held the car.. not half way down and its holds great.. saved me $$$$$$
Question.. What happends if the parking brake shoe wiggles around forward and back and left to right? Does this mean the parking brake clip is no good?
Did the rear pads and rotors on my car and accidentally misaligned the e-brake shoes and it doesn't work with the e-brake pedal pressed half way, but all the way to the floor and the e-brake works as intended. So, if my car has no brakes due to a bad line, I won't be able to use the e-brake at lower speeds. Lesson learned: adjust the e-brake shoes before installing the new rotors. Maybe I should get new ones as they are a bit worn out and for an 18 year old parking brake, it's not bad, but the shoes are grooved.
There is a little hole in the back to adjust the PB, no need to even take off Tire. Just jack it up to spin the wheel.... Little hole in back, stick in a flat screw driver and turn the left side down to tighten, and turn the right side up to tighten.
I was derping around, and noticed that the hand brake can cost 2x the cost of say front for back pads, is this common? I hear things like it only last 3k miles of proper use.
I like the way you loosen the lug nuts. I have never liked the idea of lifting on the pumpkin. Good for you, I will use the sized socket which fits what I am removing, I see your using the 3/8ths with the 1/2" . I have even used it down to the 1/4" for the bolts which are just a little too tight for finger removal. Haaaaaa it is the error part I don't like.
Great video, the only thing I saw that I wouldn't do is push the brake fluid back into the master cylinder. Instead just open the bleeder on the caliper and push the caliper back to release pressure then close it. Pushing fluid could mess up the master cylinder, and mess up the abs if your vehicle is equipped. Other wise great video. Thumbs up!!
never use the bleeder if you don't have to. bleeders are generally really weak and if that bleeder is stubborn/rusted it can break off, which are sometimes impossible to take out without damaging the caliper which means you'll have to purchase a new caliper. the only way you can mess up the master cylinder is if there is air in the system and you start pumping the brakes. that's why normally mechanics will avoid disconnecting the caliper or bleeder valves. there is one exception to this; and that is if you live in ideal conditions where they don't dump salt on the roads.
So when you apply the e-break, the mechanism causes that horseshoe to expand and press against the rotor? Also, when you adjust the e-break radius, why do you want any kind if resistance? Wouldn't that mean the rotor will be rubbing against the e-break in drive? I would imagine it would be optimal to make the e-break as close as possible to the rotor, but not making contact. I am trying to learn this.
Nick TheGing You need it to be tight enough where there is maximum resistance yet still push the rotor on. When you drive down the road (of course with the parking brake off) it will seat, adjust and break in. If it is loose before you know it, it will be P-pedal to the floor again just to stop the car an maybe not good enough to hold it for accelerator depression for a passing sticker.
Nick TheGing Hi watched the video and he did a great job but there is so much more that it would be a movie. GM cheaped out on these emergency brakes and it shows. The brake ring is supposed to expand into the inside of the little drum in the middle of the rear brake rotor. There is actually a specification for the setting but only GM dealer has the correct tool. The best way to set is expand until they just start to drag then back off star wheel about 1/2 a turn so there is no emergency brake drag. There is also a adjuster on the emergency brake cable make sure its only screwed in about 1/3 it's total adjustment travel when you start. Everything should be clean and lubricated when you start the emergency brake retaining hardware in back has a history of breaking as well at the emergency brake cable. The backing plates for the rear (and front)have a history of rusting to dust after a few years so double check.
Gordon Grimes Yes GM did screw up with this design. This design is a one piece horseshoe which stresses and stretches the cables and expands them resulting in premature failure of the entire system. A two piece E-brake shoe does not have this problem and is the preferred design which has worked for years. THE quick FIX for this problem is to take the shoe and cut multiple notches 2/3 the way in the inner shoe all metal halfway area allowing it to easily expand and contract with minimal effort. You will likely get many hundreds of contract expand cycles before the shoe breaks in half where the notches are put. Sure works much better than having to push the dam pedal to the floor all the time stretching/compromising the cables.
I've got mixed feelings about notching the POS brake assembly I have already seen an example where the whole system was torn p because the brake assembly broke and caught up in the drum which did considerable damage. I don't remember any notches but the item has separated in half (I was not really looking for them). I think the best is adjust the brake so you have minimal clearance w/o dragging so you limit the parking brake travel when used. Sorry but I don't have a really good answer except for cleaning and adjusting every few thousand miles. I live in the Southwest and these things are so cheap you can hear them rusting just going through a car wash.
When I have done "other trucks & cars" I found its faster just remove the whole frame , I e, caliber & pad bracket Just be sure to pry brake the pads slightly from the disc so reassembly is EASIER. Just a thought.
Question - - my 2003 silverado left rear rotor area got extremely HOT but now not sure what's causing it - a seized piston in caliper or seized parking brake. Any guesses before I pay the garage $250 to look at this?
+pen mightygun I paid Tuffy $250 to replace the caliper. Apparently the calipers corrode on the inside and cause pistons to seize - not retracting after braking applied. If I had known it was just the caliper I could have just bought one and replaced it for about $70 with the trade-in for the old caliper. I'm out $180 for not knowing the problem specifically.
+q7wasp7 That happened to me to. I wasn't sure if it was the parking brake or the caliper but then realized it was the caliper because it was extremely hot and I could smell the pads burning. Also to double check after taking off the caliper the wheel turned properly with no resistance so I knew it wasn't the parking brake and it was the caliper.
Great job on the video. After watching I did the brakes myself. Saved me a few bucks as the mechanic wanted some huge coin to do the brakes. Thanks for sharing.
Good vid I like the way you stopped and reset the camera to a different position before moving on. I also really like how you set the jack stand with the jack back up very smart! Very well filmed and excellent teaching along the way!
Thank you, I learned a lot.
Wanderer ,
April 2021 184 dislikes, this video is fantastic disserves 0 dislikes.. who can dislike an explanation/job like this one, shops/mechanics?
Why can’t we have more videos like yours? Best one yet.
Excellent Video, very detailed instructions, concise and to the point with no unnecessary fanfair. BIGGG TTHANKSS!!!
Although not a perfect video, he has done a great job of capturing some smaller points that are critical to know, but are skipped right over in most other related videos. For example, he rightfully points out that what appears to be a bushing behind the two 12 MM bolts holding the caliper are actually nuts although they only have two flat sides instead of the typical six. Great job!
Just 2 things otherwise it was a great video. If you have drum brakes only or a setup like this always check the parking brake resistance by installing drum or drum/rotor setup (like in the video), install a few lugs all the way down to hold whichever it is you have and push the pedal down about 5-7 clicks and see if you can rotate the setup, if you cant then your good, if you can readjust. also i would suggest using a flat-tip on those adjusters not a pair of pliers.
Best Chevy e-brake tutorial on youtube. Great job man!
Great video. I needed to learn about this combo brake that has discs for normal stopping and drum for parking brake. My comments:
1. Use locktite on yellow bolts not antiseize. I normally would not take those bolts off cause the lock title is tuff and you can do this job on most brakes by just removing the two back bolts.
2. Put brake grease on metal side of pads. Not absolutely necessary but can prevent brake squeal.
Thanks
It's good to finally see a mechanic video on You Tube where anti-seize has been used. It's the mechanics friend, especially if you are working on your own stuff.
If you just take off one caliper bolt you can just rotate the caliper out of the bracket to change pads. Make a calculated choice on which bolt, make sure you have enough brake line length to rotate enough to get pads in/out. I do know you were already planning to take all the caliper and mount bracket out of the way. This comment was FYI for you and others. I watched a video yesterday where the guy was changing pads and took off the caliper bracket with the caliper still on it to change them. Yeesh!
Good job on the video, I'll be doing this job soon on my S-10 ZR2. I drove 50 miles with E Brake on one particularly bad day.
I'm not sure if it was mentioned during the video but I found out that on a 98 Blazer you only have to adjust the left rear PB. I found out the hard way by attempting to adjust the right rear and it's not possible. The whole video on this was excellent and very helpful.
great video! I love your instructions as well as your close ups! thanks for having plenty of light for your video; too often, people are doing videos and they are so dark, noisy, and full of cursing that you're like what's the point! so I commend you for having a great video. I am a female and your instructions were so good that I'm going to give it a try! thank you!
Finally a GREAT TUTORIAL on Silverado/Sierra e brakes on YT, thanks for taking the time and patiently step by step explain the process to get it done. Kudos boss ✌️👍🙏🏻👏
Thanks very much for posting this video......I'm smarter today because of you.......you deserve the community service award...Salute!
Nice job. I really appreciated the thorough explanations at each step. I particularly appreciated the very clear close-ups -- nice camera work there! I am having trouble getting the rotor off because, i think, the emergency brake is so jacked that it's keeping the rotor from sliding off. It's loose, but hanging up bad. Your close-ups are very helpful at showing me what I'm supposed to be seeing. The close-up on the adjuster was awesome.
Very helpful showing the amount of resistance, thank you!
Great instructional video. I like how you show every step and explain the reasons why.
Thanks.
Nice clear instructions. Thanks.
I just take the entire brake caliper assembly off, even if I were just changing pads. Also, I think that yellow "anti-sieze" compound is actually thread lock compound. That's why these screws are so hard to break loose. (Anti-sieze compound is usually either silver or copper colored.)
oscar madison I agree. No need to disassemble the caliper. Just loosen the mounting bolts and remove the assembly. And yes, that is thread locking compound, not anti-seize :)
Worth noting is a coat of Loctite holds fasteners but stops moisture intrusion. The stock "dot" is sheared on removal so I use the gel (for convenience so it doesn't run off) on reinstallation.
was hoping someone noted that.
Thank you so much! i've been looking all over to how to do this, and couldn't find it until now! thanks!!!
Good video my friend from tool size to step by step procedure, I feel confident in doing this myself.
Well done! Thanks for the explanations as you went along. I’m about to replace my emergency brakes, and now I know what kind of resistance I should expect to feel when re-installing the rotors over the emergency brake pads. I just hope I don’t have to take apart that adjustment cylinder to clean and lube it before installing the pads. Again, well done!
Great video. All I need to do is tighten my parking break, but I was curious much it would take. Thanks for the video!!!
There is a little hole in the back to adjust the PB, no need to even take off Tire. Just jack it up to spin the wheel.... Little hole in back, stick in a flat screw driver and turn the left side down to tighten, and turn the right side up to tighten.
One of the best tutorials I've ever seen. Thx
The absolute most comprehensive video I've seen in a fat while, love it
Good job on the video, same basic procedure on a lot of vehicles.
Just my .02 from a lesson learned, don’t use a cheap C-clamp. Had the head of mine pop off the threaded arm and played hell getting it out of the caliper.
Good video!
This was a terrific, helpful video. Thanks so much!
Man this helped me so much you just saved me $300 bucks from the auto spot thanks!!
Thanks bro! Good shots on the video during brake shoe adjustment. It took me a bit to find yours.. as it directly applies to my 2001 silverado 1500. . To the comment about the guy who mentioned the brakes being self adjustable.. theyre not..They may have been intended to work that way. but they don"t work. The haynes manual tells you to do it exactly like my man said. .And another comment was made about being able to adjust from behind the wheel without doing this procedure.. Good luck with that.. on some vehicles this is possible. but on mine , the left brake lever and spring are at the top of the backing plate so getting in between that and the leaf spring which is only about 4 in away makes it to where you cant see what your doing. Also there was mention that pushing the piston in probably isnt a good idea without using the bleeder screw. He's prob right. I didnt think about that before. Ur just pushing dirty fluid back to the reservoir. But if you are going to do it that way .Push the piston in using a c-clamp ( and a piece of wood, or something so the piston doesnt get damaged). It's a good idea to keep an eye on your master cylinder level while your doing it. It will fill up. Manual says to pull fluid out of it before hand.
Thanks again Red Raider for the great vid. I will be doing mine exactly how u did urs tomorrow. !!..If you dive into anything else before I do...Hook me up!.. lol
Thank you so much for this video, it fixed my parking brakes on my 07 Chevy Impala. The parking brakes never worked. And I searched for a video in the past. I did exactly what you said, and thanks to all your detailed information it works perfect now. Thank you
awesome video!!! clear and to the point i feel 100% confident doing this myself.
Pro tip: put the old brake pad over the caliper piston before recompressing. Keeps you from having to screw that clamp so far.
Great video bud. Very few are as detailed as your's is.
Thank you for this video! Great explanation. Was able to perform brake maintenance on my own. I owe you beer with the $$$ I just saved.
Nice job showing how it’s done!
Thanks!
Love the video man. Unlike a lot of vids, you took the time to explain we’ll. I’ve found on pushing the piston back in, if your changing pads? Use one of the old pads over the piston then the c-clamp. It’s just helps to keep from any damage on the piston. Again thanks man!
If you are just working on the parking brake and not changing pads, just remove the caliper bracket bolts and remove the brake as an assembly. Much less labor ;)
Nicely done. The only thing I would interject is to Never push a brake caliber piston in like that. Always place a plate across it then the c clamp on top of that. Some caliber pistons screw in and by placing the clamp inside the piston as you show could fuck it up.
Very good. Will be doing rear pads on 99 S10 again. Wanted a refresher on how caliper mounts to bracket. This leads to a new question for me, why should the parking brake pads ever need to be replaced? I assumed they stay retracted with zero contact 99% of the time, only being applied when parking and not moving. Why the need to replace?
Sometimes people forget to release their parking brake, and then start driving away with a small amount of pressure still engaged...wearing down the pad..
I appreciate your video. God Bless you.
Great Federal explanation.... Thank you
The caliper pins a 16mm is equivalent to 5/8". Also if your truck is as rusty as my '05 hitting the caliper pin bolts & caliper bracket bolts with some penetrating oil is a must. I also had to use heat on the bracket bolts to get 'em loose. Even if your not adjusting or rebuildingbthe e-brake it is worth the bit of time to go clean & lube up the actuator & contact surfaces.
I thought you could "expand" the parking brake assembly through a slot in the backing plate....turning the star wheel with a flat blade screwdriver until you get resistance while turning the rotor/drum without taking everything apart.
+paul drozdowski it's a 2002
@@rareform6747 Yea I have the same brakes in my 04 sierra and no inspection hole/adjust.......I really think a error in design. I had a 96 sierra with them and drums only and was a much superior rear brake for service and power. Gm went back to the drums only in 05 and 06 (GMT800) Its a trick setup.
Excellent Instructor, thanks
Excellent instruction Red Raider. Thanks.
One edit I would recommend...at 11:00 minutes in, you showed the lower bracket which holds shoe in place, but at 17:00 minutes in, after you demonstrated how much to adjust the parking brake shoe by spinning the wheel (excellent instruction), you forgot to RE-TIGHTEN that lower shoe clip. Maybe just type some script onto the screen, reminding the view to tighten that bracket before sliding the snug rotor back on.
Thanks again RR. Awesome job!
Nice video and very simple explanation , well done kid
Thanks a lot friend very useful video it helped me a lot, I hope you will be successful in all your projects
Great video, thanks for the help. I noticed on mine when fitting the rotor for resistance it would catch the parking brake shoes a little too much and pull them out of line so I had to tap them back in place to get the rotor on straight. other than that it was a good project with no hiccups
One quick question I didn't see you put any a nice he's on those big boats on the back of that caliper bracket and also aren't you supposed to grease that the two bolts 12 mm ones that go inside the caliper that doesn't that have to be greased or something
If you don't have a c-clamp for backing--up the piston you can use large channel-lock pliers. If you've been adding brake fluid, might want to remove some of it before backing the pistons up to prevent spill over in the master cyl reservoir. Question - - can't this park brake be adjusted from outside with a common screwdriver? Back in the drum brake days, you could adjust the brakes that way. Not so sure now.
+q7wasp7
I looked carefully at the mechanism after taking it apart. The parking brakes cannot be adjusted without removing the parking brake rotor-drum and doing it from the inside. "Bad design" but then that's GM for you.
I believe that these are self adjusting. If you work the parking brake several times initially and then periodically there is no need for this. The knurled nut has a armature below that moves it each time you apply the brake.
+macklandtube That is correct. Every time you press the brake pedal when driving in reverse the brake will self-adjust. If however, the emergency brake pedal goes to the floor or the emergency brake will not hold the vehicle on a hill then you must use this procedure to adjust or replace the emergency brake shoe. Excellent video RR.
Gonna tackle this job tomorrow thank you
Nicely done. Thank you for posting, very helpful.
This was a helpful time saver! Thank you.
Great informative video! Quick and to the point! 🍻 😎👍
Parking brake engages!
Thank to this video!
Very good presentation
Fantastic video. Thank you my friend
Thank you for this valuable info 👍🏻
Thank u so much for this video, I have a cadillac cts that e brake went to the floor and still barely held the car.. not half way down and its holds great.. saved me $$$$$$
Excellent video, thanks a lot for a most informative video.
If you put a new rotor on and it doesn't want to go on, so you adjust it, and hear scraping while driving... What did I do wrong???
Question.. What happends if the parking brake shoe wiggles around forward and back and left to right? Does this mean the parking brake clip is no good?
Hey brah, cool video...but you want to use red threadlocker on those caliper mounting bracket bolts NOT anti-seize.
"Blue" lock tight, not red.
Great job on the tutorial start to finish.
Very good video. Its a big help to me, I am planning on changing my tahoe emergency brakes.
always good to use a Torque on the brake bolts....especially the slide pin!
I have the same problem with my 2003 grand prix. this helps ty
Did the rear pads and rotors on my car and accidentally misaligned the e-brake shoes and it doesn't work with the e-brake pedal pressed half way, but all the way to the floor and the e-brake works as intended. So, if my car has no brakes due to a bad line, I won't be able to use the e-brake at lower speeds. Lesson learned: adjust the e-brake shoes before installing the new rotors. Maybe I should get new ones as they are a bit worn out and for an 18 year old parking brake, it's not bad, but the shoes are grooved.
There is a little hole in the back to adjust the PB, no need to even take off Tire. Just jack it up to spin the wheel.... Little hole in back, stick in a flat screw driver and turn the left side down to tighten, and turn the right side up to tighten.
Good job! Very helpful video, covered everything I needed to know!
I was derping around, and noticed that the hand brake can cost 2x the cost of say front for back pads, is this common? I hear things like it only last 3k miles of proper use.
I like the way you loosen the lug nuts. I have never liked the idea of lifting on the pumpkin.
Good for you, I will use the sized socket which fits what I am removing, I see your using the 3/8ths with the 1/2" . I have even used it down to the 1/4" for the bolts which are just a little too tight for finger removal.
Haaaaaa it is the error part I don't like.
excellent video and narrative , thank you
Good video I have a 02 Denali I will check my e brake as well👍
Thank u buddy. Good and clear instructions
Nicely done. Great video.
this was very helpful. Thank you!
Really impressing down to the detail I'll do mine tomorrow
Cool. Easy and helpful. Thanks man.
great video..did you do any adjustment of the brake cable before you adjusted the shoes?
Very helpful video. Thanks!
This sooo helpful right now 2020!!!!
Good camera work. good explanations. But...... Pliers???
Great video brother you don't get videos with good camera an or they seem to jump off track of what there trying to do. I have to do mine as well
Very informative, keep up the great work.
Great Job! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Next time mark the teeth and count your turns for adjustment of the parking brake.
Very Helpful... Thank you. TJ in New Tampa...
thanks,very good video step by step
Thanks video was very helpful!!!
Great video, the only thing I saw that I wouldn't do is push the brake fluid back into the master cylinder. Instead just open the bleeder on the caliper and push the caliper back to release pressure then close it. Pushing fluid could mess up the master cylinder, and mess up the abs if your vehicle is equipped. Other wise great video. Thumbs up!!
never use the bleeder if you don't have to. bleeders are generally really weak and if that bleeder is stubborn/rusted it can break off, which are sometimes impossible to take out without damaging the caliper which means you'll have to purchase a new caliper. the only way you can mess up the master cylinder is if there is air in the system and you start pumping the brakes. that's why normally mechanics will avoid disconnecting the caliper or bleeder valves.
there is one exception to this; and that is if you live in ideal conditions where they don't dump salt on the roads.
You said "TaDaaaa!" (6:24) Great video, btw!
So when you apply the e-break, the mechanism causes that horseshoe to expand and press against the rotor? Also, when you adjust the e-break radius, why do you want any kind if resistance? Wouldn't that mean the rotor will be rubbing against the e-break in drive? I would imagine it would be optimal to make the e-break as close as possible to the rotor, but not making contact. I am trying to learn this.
Nick TheGing You need it to be tight enough where there is maximum resistance yet still push the rotor on. When you drive down the road (of course with the parking brake off) it will seat, adjust and break in. If it is loose before you know it, it will be P-pedal to the floor again just to stop the car an maybe not good enough to hold it for accelerator depression for a passing sticker.
Nick TheGing Hi watched the video and he did a great job but there is so much more that it would be a movie. GM cheaped out on these emergency brakes and it shows. The brake ring is supposed to expand into the inside of the little drum in the middle of the rear brake rotor. There is actually a specification for the setting but only GM dealer has the correct tool. The best way to set is expand until they just start to drag then back off star wheel about 1/2 a turn so there is no emergency brake drag. There is also a adjuster on the emergency brake cable make sure its only screwed in about 1/3 it's total adjustment travel when you start. Everything should be clean and lubricated when you start the emergency brake retaining hardware in back has a history of breaking as well at the emergency brake cable. The backing plates for the rear (and front)have a history of rusting to dust after a few years so double check.
Gordon Grimes Yes GM did screw up with this design. This design is a one piece horseshoe which stresses and stretches the cables and expands them resulting in premature failure of the entire system. A two piece E-brake shoe does not have this problem and is the preferred design which has worked for years. THE quick FIX for this problem is to take the shoe and cut multiple notches 2/3 the way in the inner shoe all metal halfway area allowing it to easily expand and contract with minimal effort. You will likely get many hundreds of contract expand cycles before the shoe breaks in half where the notches are put. Sure works much better than having to push the dam pedal to the floor all the time stretching/compromising the cables.
I've got mixed feelings about notching the POS brake assembly I have already seen an example where the whole system was torn p because the brake assembly broke and caught up in the drum which did considerable damage. I don't remember any notches but the item has separated in half (I was not really looking for them). I think the best is adjust the brake so you have minimal clearance w/o dragging so you limit the parking brake travel when used. Sorry but I don't have a really good answer except for cleaning and adjusting every few thousand miles. I live in the Southwest and these things are so cheap you can hear them rusting just going through a car wash.
My '05 Suburban has no cable adjustment like i thought it would (like old school stuff) wished it would have. :(@@gordongrimes6773
When I have done "other trucks & cars" I found its faster just remove the whole frame , I e, caliber & pad bracket Just be sure to pry brake the pads slightly from the disc so reassembly is EASIER. Just a thought.
So if i have too much resistance and the ebrake doesnt close the gap that mean they are worn?
great job i did mine thanks for your help
bob
hi, My English is to bad, but I'm trying jajaja... I'm just want to know if is the same steps for a 2002 Envoy. thanks
Thank you. That was a relly good help.
Question - - my 2003 silverado left rear rotor area got extremely HOT but now not sure what's causing it - a seized piston in caliper or seized parking brake. Any guesses before I pay the garage $250 to look at this?
+pen mightygun
I paid Tuffy $250 to replace the caliper. Apparently the calipers corrode on the inside and cause pistons to seize - not retracting after braking applied. If I had known it was just the caliper I could have just bought one and replaced it for about $70 with the trade-in for the old caliper. I'm out $180 for not knowing the problem specifically.
+q7wasp7 That happened to me to. I wasn't sure if it was the parking brake or the caliper but then realized it was the caliper because it was extremely hot and I could smell the pads burning. Also to double check after
taking off the caliper the wheel turned properly with no resistance so I knew it wasn't the parking brake and it was the caliper.
That is not Anti-Seize,That is Thread Locker or "Locktite"!!
lol "sorry sir, its quite the opposite, i'm afraid"
Great video