Thanks for this video, I must agree that it's the best on rear brakes. I have the same truck and because of this video, I'm ready to tackle my brake job. Good work!!
A little long, but having the extra detail was worth the wait. Lots of little things explained, like the dust boot for example, that really help with understanding the how and why of the engineering. Thanks.
Thank you John for the most informative and explanatory video on how to wrestle successfuly with these parking brake assemblies. Attention to the tiny, but important details left really no questions in my mind. This information will really help me when I take on this project!
Thank you for your efforts here. thank you for taking the time to make the video. I have done it on different projects, I know the amount of work and effort it takes. Very thorough!!.
Awesome video! Thanks for putting this together. I am getting ready to replace all my cables (as they stretch over time) along with shoes, hardware, etc.
@@johnsworkshop3312 it was so much faster, i never want to do it again tho. original rotors and parking brake. salt free truck from out west, hopefully i never have to replace.
Bad news: the entire parking brake mechanism beyond the cable was removed by the previous owner. No wonder it didn’t work! Good news: OEM ACDelco replacement was only $57 on Amazon, shoes included. Got your video bookmarked to assist with the repair when it arrives.@@johnsworkshop3312 Thank you!
When U folks do this job especially in the northeast where that retaining bolt ain't there no more it has to be drilled out which means your truck will be down a day if not longer. You have to pull the axles out which is even more money if the Diff cover is all rotted out replace that too and down forget to use an air hammer around the entire diff cover to remover rust and crust. Replace the axle seals if they have not yet been replaced. If ya don't they will start leaking immediately and ruin the new shoes. I took me 4 days because I cleaned everything up sanitary. Had to drill and tap them retainer bolts. Usually U will find out in the northeast the cables R rusted fast as well. Replace the rear cables. Usually the front cable on the single and extended cabs R okay.. The rears really rust usually it's the mid cable on the extended cabs just rips and that is because the rear cables are either pinched or rusted fast. The parking brake ebrake cables tend to get hung up on brush and things that pass under the trucks. So pull the axles and try to take your time. For you folks that only have one vehicle and its a Silverado you are in for it on this job if the shits really rusty
Wow - thanks for sharing that. I guess I was really luck on the rust. Probably have much less salt here in the midwest, and this truck didn't do much duty in the snow.
This is the most extensive an awesome step-by-step video!! Thanks for making it!! I do have a question though, is there a specific name for the back plate ? I think mine is pretty much gone from rust..... do I have to replace it or can I get by with just the rusty old piece I have?
You're right. On the rust question - it depends on how bad it is. There are two purposes to that: 1) hold the various parts and 2) provide some protection from the elements. If the outer edges are rusting away, that may be ok, but if the rust is weakening the parts more near the center, that could be a problem.
everything looks identical to my 1999 GMC Sierra 2x4 w/rear disc. For anyone wondering, the pad thickness of a new parking brake is 1/8". along with the boots at 19:00, there's a parking brake hw kit and a caliper hw kit if your hardware is looking rough. I'm in there because my caliper piston boot is shot but not leaking. parking brake goes to the floor so I'm just replacing the parking brake hw. getting everything clean and lubed and replacing the star wheel clip. One thing not mentioned is the parking brake cable tensioner on the driver side, if your pedal is still going to the floor.
How far is yours adjusted too where the two cables meet under the driver side? Mines maxed out and I want to adjust it right seeing as my pedal goes all the way down
@@Teddybites meaning you've got the nut tightened all the way down and cable is very loose when parking brake is release, and not tight enough when parking brake is engaged? --> You may want to LOOSEN the nut and then use the parking brake a few times so the auto-tensioner at the parking brake pedal can ratchet up some of that slack. Let me find that video i bookmarked about how the parking brake tensioner works with new parking brake shoes in, my nut is about 1/2 way down. it will vary from truck to truck depending on how much slack the parking brake auto-tensioner has ratcheted down. with parking brake released, the cable shouldn't have enough tension to pull the lever at the parking brake drum I think "perfect" setting is where the first couple clicks of pushing the parking brake does not hold the vehicle from moving - you just removing the slack from the cable. This prevents parking brake from continually having force against parking brake drum when brake is released. Otherwise you will wear out the emergency brake lining. In general, properly adjusted, the parking brake does not need much travel to fully lock the wheels, as long as the brakes start holding with pedal about halfway down, you're good. Once you've put the rotor back on, you should be able to turn the wheel by hand with both wheels off the ground(open differential), a slight grinding noise is ok since the parking brake isn't perfectly centered so one edge will touch the inside drum and cause that sound. Put in neutral if your differential is a locker/limited slip and can't normally turn the wheel.
th-cam.com/video/ex3rlTG-lFc/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TheGAutomotiveAndMore Note you do not need to do the parking brake reset. This is just showing you that there is a parking brake adjuster that will take the slack out of the cable by ratcheting the cable tighter when parking brake is released.
Love the video, made me confident enough to do it on my own except I got a dilema. It seems you are turning the rotor as if it was spinning in reverse when you check how snug the shoes are. I bought a new rotor and new e brake but mines is harder to spin in reverse. Spinning forward is easier. Is this an issue?
I wonder if the reason it is harder in one direction is due to the transmission turning. I had both rear wheels off the ground so when I turned one, the other turned too.
Great video John! Just what I needed to guide me in changing the emergency brake pads on my 2011 Avalanche. Trouble is, I can't find the replacement dust cover. Checked with my local Chevy dealer (part discontinued) and local parts house can't find any info in their system for a dust cover. Do you happen to have a part number or recall where you found it? Thanks.
@@billwitmer-ig3os Thank you for the comments. I found that dust boot at Autozone. They had to order it, and it might take a few days to get in, but they should be able to fix you up.
@@johnsworkshop3312 Yep, Autozone is my go parts house but they can't find it in their system. Checked also at NAPA store and Advance Auto. No luck. Also checked with local Chevy dealer. The dust cover was part of a kit that is now discontinued. Going to start searching the web. Thanks for you reply!
Thank you for replying! One more question I replaced my brake pads, calipers and the hoses why my brakes still feels like they lacking,my tires are hard to spin them? TIA.!
@@JoseJimenez-ee2gr with new calipers they should back off pretty well. The only thing I can think of is maybe there is air in the lines. That can cause odd behavior, but you would notice a squishy pedal.
At the end when you were doing the parking break adjustment with the star wheel with the flat head screw driver. What gear was the transmission in? Drive? Neutral , park? Curious as mine won’t rotate freely with the rear of the car jacked up unless in neutral but I swore prior to me putting new shoes it rotated while in “park” even with the front wheels on the ground and only the rear raised off the ground but now with the star wheel to the most recessed position(non expanded) now my rotor won’t rotate unless the transmission is in neutral , it makes the differential locks the tires when I try to rotate freely by hand.
It was in park and both rear wheels were off the ground. It was also in 2 wheel drive. With the parking brakes adjusted properly the wheels should rotate without dragging. If you have a limited slip differential (and I’m not sure if they put them in these trucks) then you would need to be in neutral and both wheels would turn in the same direction and the driveshaft would be turning.
When you are releasing and pressing the parking brake to adjust the parking brake pads, are you leaving the parking brake on when taking the rotor on and off? When pulling my rotor, I did just as you said and ended up pulling on the parking brake pad too hard and broke the bracket that holds it on. I had to buy the new part then.
I have the pedal released when pulling the rotor off. Otherwise the shoes will be trying to grab it while you’re pulling it off. Sorry to hear about the broken bracket, but glad you got it sorted out. Once it is adjusted right you won’t be able to turn the rotor or pull it off with the parking brake applied because the shoes will be grabbing so hard.
I bought a 2005 Yukon, 218,000 miles, and the parking brake cable in the cab was missing so I replaced it. Then I realized the parking brake doesn't engage enough to stop it from rolling from even a slight sloping hill, entirely empty. So something is not working right. How should I confirm what is broken? Are there other components that can fail that would cause the parking brake not to work? Should I disassemble both rear wheel rotors and visually checked it out? Thanks!
If you have someone operate the emergency brake while you look at the back of the the two rear brake backing plates you can double check that the cable is moving. If that is the case then I’d recommend pulling the rear rotors to check condition of the shoes and other linkage components
Hard job became harder when the 8mm bolt for the parking brake pad retaining clip snapped off. I don't think an extractor is worth bothering with so I'm thinking I'm going to have to drill and tap it. I might be able to do it without pulling the axle but won't know till I try. On the other hand, I'm wondering if I need to even install a new clip. The old one was completely rusted away with only the bolt remaining so maybe I can get away without it.
@@johnsworkshop3312 You pegged me right 😀 I ended up drilling out the broken screw and tapping a new one. A big headache without taking the axle off. I never use the parking brake and probably wouldn't have bothered with them if I didn't have to replace the completely rusted off dust shields with 2 piece ones. In hindsight, I wished I had pulled the axles. The job is so much easier without them in the way. You can build the entire shield, mounting plate and parking brake setup on a bench and put it on as a unit.
@@jerseyjim9092 Glad you got it sorted out right. You'll feel better about driving it around knowing that there is nothing missing and it was put back together correctly. Another advantage of doing it yourself. Not sure if a professional shop would take the time to do that.
You need that retainer clip to hold the emergency brake shoe in place and you can remove the shoe without removing the clip. I learned that the hard way. You can hammer out one stud to gain access to drill out the hole for that retaining clip.
@@nico8587d Thanks, that's what I ended up doing. On both sides. I knew that cheap hf tap and die set I bought 20 years ago would come in handy someday. 😆. The design of these parking brakes leaves alot to be desired and since I've never used them I probably should've left them alone. But I had to take them off to get the new 2 piece Dorman dust shields on. These are another thing that drove me nuts. Had to keep bending them here and there to stop them from scraping the rotor. I don't think I would've had that issue with the one piece but that would've required pulling the axles which for various reasons if I had to do this job over I would. In the end it would saved me a lot of time and aggravation. Shortcuts rarely pay off.
Cable snapped on my '06. Pedal is to the floor, but wheels spin freely as if it's off. How safe or unsafe is it to drive. ( Temporarily) I hear kind of a ticking sound or snapping sound.
I think you are just fine to drive it temporarily. On these the pedal does go to the floor when the brake is set. The parking brake should not interfere with normal driving. Just be careful if you park on a hill. That noise is probably one of the parking brake shoes rubbing on something. Good luck with the repair.
Don't use RED thread locker! The next guy is going to have trouble getting them apart again. Blue Loctite is correct. I am in the process of doing this job myself. Also, no need to mess with the spring. The actuator arm will come through the back. Also, up here in the rust belt, nothing is that clean on a 20 year old truck.
Great video but please never use compressed air on brake assemblies. Extremely dangerous to blow that dust around. A big no-no in the auto repair world. Always use brake cleaner solvent to wet it down and clean the area. Cheers 👍
Nice video. One issue: You're using WAY WAY WAY too much thread locker! For those bolts, two drops is enough. It's a friction modifier, not an adhesive! Too much will turn it into a lubricant!
One should...LOOSEN the adjustment on the CABLE all the way in......before tweaking around with replacing and adjusting.....just saying. Good video and process.
Best video in my opinion. Shows& explains everything clearly...like it lots.
Thank you for the feedback!!
Thanks for this video, I must agree that it's the best on rear brakes. I have the same truck and because of this video, I'm ready to tackle my brake job. Good work!!
A little long, but having the extra detail was worth the wait. Lots of little things explained, like the dust boot for example, that really help with understanding the how and why of the engineering. Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback!!
I love the way you explain all the steps. Thank you!!!!
Thank you for the feedback!!
This video is alot more helpful than other videos I've watched
Thank you Josh!
Thank you John for the most informative and explanatory video on how to wrestle successfuly with these parking brake assemblies. Attention to the tiny, but important details left really no questions in my mind. This information will really help me when I take on this project!
Thank you for the feedback - good luck when you decide to take on the job!
@@johnsworkshop3312 tackled one today. Perfect!
Thanks for the patient and thorough tutorial John.
My pleasure. Glad you liked it!
I used this video to replace my parking brake shoes and lever boots on my 03 GMC Sierra. Thank You!
You’re very welcome. Glad I could help.
Thank you for your efforts here. thank you for taking the time to make the video. I have done it on different projects, I know the amount of work and effort it takes. Very thorough!!.
I really appreciate your feedback. Thank you Rhino Rider!
Awesome video! Thanks for putting this together. I am getting ready to replace all my cables (as they stretch over time) along with shoes, hardware, etc.
Thanks for the feedback! And good luck on your upcoming job!
Well done. Photography was excellent as was the narrative. Real Blue collar, real well done, thanks!
Wow, great compliment. Thank you Terry.
Sure made taking off and putting on that shoe look easy. Passenger side fought me quite a bit! Haven't done driver yet. Fantastic video.
Thanks for the feedback! Good luck on that drivers side!!
@@johnsworkshop3312 it was so much faster, i never want to do it again tho. original rotors and parking brake. salt free truck from out west, hopefully i never have to replace.
Thanks for your comment. I hope the driver side goes smoothly!
@@mipakr I hope you’re right!
This really helped me out! Thanks so much! Doing this on my truck tomorrow.
Thanks for the feedback. Good luck on your truck!
Bad news: the entire parking brake mechanism beyond the cable was removed by the previous owner. No wonder it didn’t work! Good news: OEM ACDelco replacement was only $57 on Amazon, shoes included. Got your video bookmarked to assist with the repair when it arrives.@@johnsworkshop3312 Thank you!
Really detailed and thorough explanation for this. I appreciate the extra with the dust boot replacement too. Thank you sir
Thanks for the feedback. I always struggle with how much detail to include so it doesn’t get too long. Thanks for taking the time to write a comment.
Great video with great photography.
Thanks Terry!!
When U folks do this job especially in the northeast where that retaining bolt ain't there no more it has to be drilled out which means your truck will be down a day if not longer. You have to pull the axles out which is even more money if the Diff cover is all rotted out replace that too and down forget to use an air hammer around the entire diff cover to remover rust and crust. Replace the axle seals if they have not yet been replaced. If ya don't they will start leaking immediately and ruin the new shoes. I took me 4 days because I cleaned everything up sanitary. Had to drill and tap them retainer bolts. Usually U will find out in the northeast the cables R rusted fast as well. Replace the rear cables. Usually the front cable on the single and extended cabs R okay.. The rears really rust usually it's the mid cable on the extended cabs just rips and that is because the rear cables are either pinched or rusted fast. The parking brake ebrake cables tend to get hung up on brush and things that pass under the trucks. So pull the axles and try to take your time. For you folks that only have one vehicle and its a Silverado you are in for it on this job if the shits really rusty
Wow - thanks for sharing that. I guess I was really luck on the rust. Probably have much less salt here in the midwest, and this truck didn't do much duty in the snow.
Exactly what I needed, well done, Thank You.
@@christopherpecina1158 Thank you for the feedback!
This is the most extensive an awesome step-by-step video!! Thanks for making it!!
I do have a question though, is there a specific name for the back plate ? I think mine is pretty much gone from rust..... do I have to replace it or can I get by with just the rusty old piece I have?
Nvm dust brake shield *
You're right. On the rust question - it depends on how bad it is. There are two purposes to that: 1) hold the various parts and 2) provide some protection from the elements. If the outer edges are rusting away, that may be ok, but if the rust is weakening the parts more near the center, that could be a problem.
Excellent video, very detailed.
@@Scott-yd8xn Thank you Scott!!
everything looks identical to my 1999 GMC Sierra 2x4 w/rear disc. For anyone wondering, the pad thickness of a new parking brake is 1/8". along with the boots at 19:00, there's a parking brake hw kit and a caliper hw kit if your hardware is looking rough.
I'm in there because my caliper piston boot is shot but not leaking. parking brake goes to the floor so I'm just replacing the parking brake hw. getting everything clean and lubed and replacing the star wheel clip. One thing not mentioned is the parking brake cable tensioner on the driver side, if your pedal is still going to the floor.
How far is yours adjusted too where the two cables meet under the driver side? Mines maxed out and I want to adjust it right seeing as my pedal goes all the way down
@@Teddybites meaning you've got the nut tightened all the way down and cable is very loose when parking brake is release, and not tight enough when parking brake is engaged?
--> You may want to LOOSEN the nut and then use the parking brake a few times so the auto-tensioner at the parking brake pedal can ratchet up some of that slack.
Let me find that video i bookmarked about how the parking brake tensioner works
with new parking brake shoes in, my nut is about 1/2 way down. it will vary from truck to truck depending on how much slack the parking brake auto-tensioner has ratcheted down. with parking brake released, the cable shouldn't have enough tension to pull the lever at the parking brake drum
I think "perfect" setting is where the first couple clicks of pushing the parking brake does not hold the vehicle from moving - you just removing the slack from the cable. This prevents parking brake from continually having force against parking brake drum when brake is released. Otherwise you will wear out the emergency brake lining. In general, properly adjusted, the parking brake does not need much travel to fully lock the wheels, as long as the brakes start holding with pedal about halfway down, you're good.
Once you've put the rotor back on, you should be able to turn the wheel by hand with both wheels off the ground(open differential), a slight grinding noise is ok since the parking brake isn't perfectly centered so one edge will touch the inside drum and cause that sound. Put in neutral if your differential is a locker/limited slip and can't normally turn the wheel.
th-cam.com/video/ex3rlTG-lFc/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TheGAutomotiveAndMore
Note you do not need to do the parking brake reset. This is just showing you that there is a parking brake adjuster that will take the slack out of the cable by ratcheting the cable tighter when parking brake is released.
@@thebluelunarmonkey thank you for that video you posted that was my problem!!!
@@Teddybites you're welcome !
Best video I've seen on changing this! Thx!
Thank you D!
@@johnsworkshop3312 I use my wire brush on my bench grinder more than any other tool! I kept wanting to loan it to you! :D
@@dziggy3004 wish I had time to clean off the frame rust and seal it up with something.
@@johnsworkshop3312 I was thinking about cleaning up the bolts (from thread locker) and plungers, et al...
@@dziggy3004 Ah, gotcha. That is a good idea.
Very informative video! Great job!
Thank you, Bill!
Love the video, made me confident enough to do it on my own except I got a dilema. It seems you are turning the rotor as if it was spinning in reverse when you check how snug the shoes are. I bought a new rotor and new e brake but mines is harder to spin in reverse. Spinning forward is easier. Is this an issue?
I wonder if the reason it is harder in one direction is due to the transmission turning. I had both rear wheels off the ground so when I turned one, the other turned too.
Great video John! Just what I needed to guide me in changing the emergency brake pads on my 2011 Avalanche. Trouble is, I can't find the replacement dust cover. Checked with my local Chevy dealer (part discontinued) and local parts house can't find any info in their system for a dust cover. Do you happen to have a part number or recall where you found it? Thanks.
@@billwitmer-ig3os Thank you for the comments. I found that dust boot at Autozone. They had to order it, and it might take a few days to get in, but they should be able to fix you up.
@@johnsworkshop3312 Yep, Autozone is my go parts house but they can't find it in their system. Checked also at NAPA store and Advance Auto. No luck. Also checked with local Chevy dealer. The dust cover was part of a kit that is now discontinued. Going to start searching the web. Thanks for you reply!
@@billwitmer-ig3os I zoomed in on the video and it looks like what I had used was a Dorman 924-423 part.
Thank you for the video I'm going to try that in my truck.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck, and I hope you don’t encounter much rust!
Thank you for replying! One more question I replaced my brake pads, calipers and the hoses why my brakes still feels like they lacking,my tires are hard to spin them? TIA.!
@@JoseJimenez-ee2gr with new calipers they should back off pretty well. The only thing I can think of is maybe there is air in the lines. That can cause odd behavior, but you would notice a squishy pedal.
Thanks for the video/ helped me get those brakes off and on real quick
Thank you. Glad it helped
Great video! thanks for posting!
Thank you!
still haven't found the one piece "lever" for this parking break install !! crazy rear find? Has anyone found it online?
Great video! Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
At the end when you were doing the parking break adjustment with the star wheel with the flat head screw driver. What gear was the transmission in? Drive? Neutral , park?
Curious as mine won’t rotate freely with the rear of the car jacked up unless in neutral but I swore prior to me putting new shoes it rotated while in “park” even with the front wheels on the ground and only the rear raised off the ground but now with the star wheel to the most recessed position(non expanded) now my rotor won’t rotate unless the transmission is in neutral , it makes the differential locks the tires when I try to rotate freely by hand.
It was in park and both rear wheels were off the ground. It was also in 2 wheel drive. With the parking brakes adjusted properly the wheels should rotate without dragging. If you have a limited slip differential (and I’m not sure if they put them in these trucks) then you would need to be in neutral and both wheels would turn in the same direction and the driveshaft would be turning.
When you are releasing and pressing the parking brake to adjust the parking brake pads, are you leaving the parking brake on when taking the rotor on and off? When pulling my rotor, I did just as you said and ended up pulling on the parking brake pad too hard and broke the bracket that holds it on. I had to buy the new part then.
I have the pedal released when pulling the rotor off. Otherwise the shoes will be trying to grab it while you’re pulling it off. Sorry to hear about the broken bracket, but glad you got it sorted out. Once it is adjusted right you won’t be able to turn the rotor or pull it off with the parking brake applied because the shoes will be grabbing so hard.
Must be nice to have hardly any rust underneath.
I’m super lucky to have little rust. Need to spray more oil on it now. Starting to look a little more rusty.
You read my mind 😂 My new england Silverado is a rust bucket 🪣 😞
@@jaystrappa I used some por-15 on mine (a 2001 silverado in Ohio), and it's awesome!
don’t be Salty🤣
Excellent, detailed video. Thank you.
Thank you!
Awsome job and info! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
I bought a 2005 Yukon, 218,000 miles, and the parking brake cable in the cab was missing so I replaced it. Then I realized the parking brake doesn't engage enough to stop it from rolling from even a slight sloping hill, entirely empty. So something is not working right. How should I confirm what is broken? Are there other components that can fail that would cause the parking brake not to work? Should I disassemble both rear wheel rotors and visually checked it out? Thanks!
If you have someone operate the emergency brake while you look at the back of the the two rear brake backing plates you can double check that the cable is moving. If that is the case then I’d recommend pulling the rear rotors to check condition of the shoes and other linkage components
@@johnsworkshop3312 good idea! Thanks
Those 18mm bolts are held in with red loctite. A small portable torch helps.
Thanks for the tip!
This was a great video thanks so much
You’re welcome. Thanks for your comment!
Hard job became harder when the 8mm bolt for the parking brake pad retaining clip snapped off. I don't think an extractor is worth bothering with so I'm thinking I'm going to have to drill and tap it. I might be able to do it without pulling the axle but won't know till I try. On the other hand, I'm wondering if I need to even install a new clip. The old one was completely rusted away with only the bolt remaining so maybe I can get away without it.
You could probably get away without it, but if you’re like me you’ll probably want to make it 100% right. I hope you can get it out. Good luck!
@@johnsworkshop3312 You pegged me right 😀 I ended up drilling out the broken screw and tapping a new one. A big headache without taking the axle off. I never use the parking brake and probably wouldn't have bothered with them if I didn't have to replace the completely rusted off dust shields with 2 piece ones. In hindsight, I wished I had pulled the axles. The job is so much easier without them in the way. You can build the entire shield, mounting plate and parking brake setup on a bench and put it on as a unit.
@@jerseyjim9092 Glad you got it sorted out right. You'll feel better about driving it around knowing that there is nothing missing and it was put back together correctly. Another advantage of doing it yourself. Not sure if a professional shop would take the time to do that.
You need that retainer clip to hold the emergency brake shoe in place and you can remove the shoe without removing the clip. I learned that the hard way. You can hammer out one stud to gain access to drill out the hole for that retaining clip.
@@nico8587d Thanks, that's what I ended up doing. On both sides. I knew that cheap hf tap and die set I bought 20 years ago would come in handy someday. 😆. The design of these parking brakes leaves alot to be desired and since I've never used them I probably should've left them alone. But I had to take them off to get the new 2 piece Dorman dust shields on. These are another thing that drove me nuts. Had to keep bending them here and there to stop them from scraping the rotor. I don't think I would've had that issue with the one piece but that would've required pulling the axles which for various reasons if I had to do this job over I would. In the end it would saved me a lot of time and aggravation. Shortcuts rarely pay off.
Good video! When dealing with brakes, people should wear a dust mask. You sure don't want to inhale any of the dust.
Good point! Even if it is not asbestos, that dust is certainly not something you want to breathe in.
Isn't there an adjustment hole on the backing plate to slide a screwdriver in to make adjustments without having to keep taking the rotor off?
I wish there was a hole in the plate.
Beautiful job
Thank you!!
Cable snapped on my '06. Pedal is to the floor, but wheels spin freely as if it's off. How safe or unsafe is it to drive. ( Temporarily) I hear kind of a ticking sound or snapping sound.
I think you are just fine to drive it temporarily. On these the pedal does go to the floor when the brake is set. The parking brake should not interfere with normal driving. Just be careful if you park on a hill. That noise is probably one of the parking brake shoes rubbing on something. Good luck with the repair.
I just bought a burban 1500. missing that lever on one side. lol. cant source it. Goin g to have to fab one up. DOHHHH
Or maybe a junk yard…. Good luck with your project!
@@johnsworkshop3312 I made one. perfect fit and function. thanks
@@-jimmyjames awesome!!
Great explanation thanks
Thank you!!!
Rule #1 Never blast compressed air in any brake or clutch parts other than that cool
Thanks
I would of like to seen how
how far down the e-brake pedal went down
It goes all the way down. But holds great on a hill.
Always! Always! leave the jack under there too! Good one 😎!...spend good money on your safety!!
For sure. Can’t be too careful about safety!
I feel somewhat confident to attack that emergency brake. Mine goes all the way down as well.
It will still go all the way down when fixed, but it will hold the truck on a hill. Mine wouldn’t really grab when I started.
Has anyone ever managed to get the ebrake adjusted good enough to effectively stop the truck?
Don't use RED thread locker! The next guy is going to have trouble getting them apart again. Blue Loctite is correct. I am in the process of doing this job myself. Also, no need to mess with the spring. The actuator arm will come through the back. Also, up here in the rust belt, nothing is that clean on a 20 year old truck.
@@52RedHouse Thanks for the tip. Yeah, rust is bad up there. I’m lucky that this truck spent a lot of time in the garage during winter.
Great video but please never use compressed air on brake assemblies. Extremely dangerous to blow that dust around. A big no-no in the auto repair world. Always use brake cleaner solvent to wet it down and clean the area.
Cheers 👍
Don't use locktite red use the blue. Red will require heating to release the bolt.
Thanks for the tip on the Locktite!
Anyone got a parts link?
Nice video. One issue: You're using WAY WAY WAY too much thread locker! For those bolts, two drops is enough. It's a friction modifier, not an adhesive! Too much will turn it into a lubricant!
Thanks for your comment, and I’ll have to cut back on the thread locker!
Bro you never heard of asbestos? Gloves! Wouldn't be hitting it with compressed air either.
Boy wish my truck looked like that. Must live somewhere warm
I got lucky because this was my father in law’s truck and he didn’t drive much and kept it in the garage.
Them suckers weren’t tightened to spec or you would have struggled a lot more lol
I have the exact same Craftsman flathead lol
@@DanielPadilla-f1f Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Best yess
I wished you’re my neighbor.
That’s exactly what my problem on my 2000 silverado
Awesome - glad I could help!
I removed the drum and it turned out that what it needs is just an adjustment on the star wheel.
How the hell did you put the emergency brake back on the most important part you left out of the video!!! Wtf!!!!
Look at 21:52 or so in the video. You have to wiggle the shoe around a bit but it will go on.
Please don't use air to blow out brakes, fibres in brake dust not good. Brake cleaner $5 bucks a can.
Good point - be sure not to breathe any of that dust!
Not a good idea to blow off with compressed air. Use brake parts cleaner.
One should...LOOSEN the adjustment on the CABLE all the way in......before tweaking around with replacing and adjusting.....just saying. Good video and process.
Thanks for the tip!
Great information!
Thank you for the feedback!!