Nice video. It is also a good idea to coat/paint the frame after you cut it with some sort of underbody paint/coating/black spray paint to keep the bare metal from rusting. 👍🏼🔥🔥 I live in Michigan where they salt the roads...so it's always a good idea to cost bare metal.
That is very true. I did remove it and painted it with anti corrosion sealer in black and the sand blasted the did entire frame before I stalling suspension
Thanks, the videos are helping me plan same work on an f-150( 2WD) are the "C" notches available in different depths? I'm looking to drop it as low as possible without having to have all the cross bracing inside the bed.
To prevent cutting into the bed the only options are the standard mini C to prevent a weakening in the frame but if you don’t use the bump stops you can go pretty low, just by doing the axle on top of the leads and adding a block or you can do a front hanger kit which makes the front leaf higher for an even lower ground clearance
@@1194video thank you, I don''t mind having to cut into the bed, but it is the "bridge" I want to avoid. Even a deeper C notch supported with steel gussets welded to both sides, but able to allow a possible 10" drop. OR, a flip, 4-6" c-notch and possible rear air bags. I am looking to get a "95 F-150 lowered ( and raised) as close to the ground as possible., I am fine with lowering the front end 2-4" as well Thanks again
Im doing this kit on my wife truck i came into the issue with that cross member for the spare. I noticed at the end of the video you used the same bolt hole for the cross member for the plate and drilled the holes for the side to bolt up. In the beginning of the video that cross member looked cut off is do to the bottom left bolt unable get the back nut to go in.. thats where i am stuck right now.
It doesn’t require any welding, but you could weld the edges for added strength, if you want to use the truck to pull a trailer I’d definitely advise not only to weld it but to fully box it as well
@@1194video weld all the way around plus fish plate would be 100 times stronger personal done it on countless semi's it all in the fabrication plus drilling holes suck and bolts can break but can get loose, welding it properly with is by far the safest route
Thank you for this video. Definitely helpful with my 4/6 job I have coming up on my C2500. Subscribed.
Hey Thankyou! Good luck with the upcoming project!
Nice simple explanation
Nice video.
It is also a good idea to coat/paint the frame after you cut it with some sort of underbody paint/coating/black spray paint to keep the bare metal from rusting. 👍🏼🔥🔥
I live in Michigan where they salt the roads...so it's always a good idea to cost bare metal.
That is very true. I did remove it and painted it with anti corrosion sealer in black and the sand blasted the did entire frame before I stalling suspension
Thanks, the videos are helping me plan same work on an f-150( 2WD) are the "C" notches available in different depths? I'm looking to drop it as low as possible without having to have all the cross bracing inside the bed.
To prevent cutting into the bed the only options are the standard mini C to prevent a weakening in the frame but if you don’t use the bump stops you can go pretty low, just by doing the axle on top of the leads and adding a block or you can do a front hanger kit which makes the front leaf higher for an even lower ground clearance
@@1194video thank you, I don''t mind having to cut into the bed, but it is the "bridge" I want to avoid. Even a deeper C notch supported with steel gussets welded to both sides, but able to allow a possible 10" drop. OR, a flip, 4-6" c-notch and possible rear air bags. I am looking to get a "95 F-150 lowered ( and raised) as close to the ground as possible., I am fine with lowering the front end 2-4" as well Thanks again
what size of drill bit did you used and what brand?...i haven been lucky with drill bits... Thank you sr...and God bless 🙌
I used a small pilot but then went to 1/2 bit, just lowes carbide bits I think dewalt brand
Do you have to notch the bed to clear where the notch bracket goes above the frame
Yes you do about .5”
Im doing this kit on my wife truck i came into the issue with that cross member for the spare. I noticed at the end of the video you used the same bolt hole for the cross member for the plate and drilled the holes for the side to bolt up. In the beginning of the video that cross member looked cut off is do to the bottom left bolt unable get the back nut to go in.. thats where i am stuck right now.
You have to drill it to relocate
What's the best drills for these frames
I use carbide
@@1194video thanks
Hey body where can i buy a cnotch just like the one you install thanks
@@jaimeguardiola9150 eBay sells them
Are you in the Cookeville area? My brother lives in Livingston
Not far from cookeville, go there quite a bit to eat out
Why not weld it on?
It doesn’t require any welding, but you could weld the edges for added strength, if you want to use the truck to pull a trailer I’d definitely advise not only to weld it but to fully box it as well
@@1194video weld all the way around plus fish plate would be 100 times stronger personal done it on countless semi's it all in the fabrication plus drilling holes suck and bolts can break but can get loose, welding it properly with is by far the safest route
@@michaelanthony3433 agreed!
@@michaelanthony3433 I have a question, the fish plate goes on the inside of the frame, right, opposite the C-notch ? Thanks for the hep
Where did you get the notch
Bell tech
10-4 thank you