I love changing strings. I was taught to treat it as a very personal relationship with my guitar. It is a time to spend tenderly caring for your guitar. I love the process, and I love the final feeling of accomplishment.
I'm 70 and have been playing since 1967 and I've heard so much bullshit about what we should and shouldn't do to our guitars. It's refreshing to hear a young feller debunk so many myths about the art.
Tony: Thanks for the tips on changing guitar strings. I hate to admit this, but I am 75 years old, I've been a guitar player since I was 12, and just retired as a professional musician recently. I was "today old"; when I finally learned how to do a luthier's knot. I'm wondering if you know of Charlie Hoffman guitars? I have a hand made Hoffman that is now about 40 years old and it's a peach. Charlie is a guitar maker from Minneapolis ' maybe you've met him. His son Gabriel runs the shop now. After 40 years when I took my guitar in for maintenance, Gabriel said the neck was a hair shifted and that it was underneath warranty. Talk about standing behind your work. I couldn't believe it! I'll be tuning in to your channel from now on. I have Parkinson's disease and my chops have deteriorated significantly. But I think my playing helps my hand/eye coordination, my hand strength, and keeps my brain limping along. Maybe, no I'm certain I will learn something! But I may be to old to learn anything and too young to know everything. I guess you could say that this also applies to life in general.😂
Man I’m glad you clarified string stretching. I’ve seen videos where they insist you grab them; I say to myself, “I don’t care if it’s the right thing to do, no way I’m gonna do that.”
Evh guitar tech uses this string stretcher. It’s so great. You run it up and down the string s few times. Strings stretched. Perfectly evenly in seconds when
Fun fact: Luthiers hate the "luthier" knot. Seriously. We really hate it. It is an unnecessary step that is irritating to deal with. I've not spoken to another pro luthier that uses it, or even that doesn't strongly dislike it. I don't think my ways are the "right" way, I wasn't trained that way. That knot is just one of the myths you mentioned in pretty much every other step. And I gotta say, it makes me so happy to see someone use the pull back method for string length instead of measuring by the tuning posts. I think I've seen one other video on here that does that. It is far more consistent than the tuning posts. I pull back one fret for guitar and two for bass.
This is the most comprehensive and accurate guide to string changing I've seen. I have slight differences but this is basically my process. I'll definitely share.
How refreshing to hear you killing the 'only one string at a time' dragon !! I've been playing since the 1960s and I've ALWAYS removed all the strings. Time after time the paranoid say 'Oh you shouldn't', so thanks again.
Absolutely! The guitar wasn't built with the strings on it, so why shouldn't it survive a few minutes without them? I had one guy go further - he said once the strings are on, NEVER stretch them, put the guitar away and don't touch it for 6 months so they can stretch 'naturally'. The world is full of idiots, and somehow I meet all of them.
I've been playing since I was 12 years old and having been stringing all my life and while I string similarly. the luthier's knot was not in my repertoire. And using the pencil was not on my radar as well. So, after nearly 60 years of doing this I think I can get it right without hassles!! Thank you Tony. I so appreciate this segment!!!
you've got to be kidding - you don't realize you could sound better ? talk about myopic - and Jimmy Page fans thinks he's better than Clapton - cause it's all they listen to
40 yrs. Playing acoustics here and used the luthier knot for a few years….never found it to be useful, three (3) winds and my Taylor, Martin and Collings are good till string change happens
@@vaughnmaurt5013 I used it until I became a luthier. The only thing it does is increase the chance of scratching up the headstock and/or tuning posts trying to remove it, especially on guitars that have not been restrung in a few years.
Pro guitar techs and most luthiers hate that knot technique, it's very unnecessary and pulling back to the first fret is all you need to gauge correct number of wraps. This is not coming from me but multiple techs/luthiers from different channels on TH-cam, shops, and conventions who have been repairing and playing professionally longer than I've been alive. I have no idea who this creator is nor have I ever watched his content as it had just popped up in my recommendations. So in no way am I discrediting him or his background as I literally don't even know who he is. All I am saying is from the information I've gathered over the years this is considered an "incorrect" and "annoying" method by most working professionals. Peace
Alright, i subscribed. You got me with the 'slight bend at the ball end' thing. Ive experienced the SLAM, when the ball suddenly hits the bridge plate. Sometimes on stage, and its pretty violent...the guitar goes out of tune, and ive had guitars that needed a new bridge plate as a result. You taught an old dog a new trick. Thank you, sir. I would also like to thank the fellas here in the comments, Who just taught me to leave out the 'Luthiers knot' thing. Which is gonna come in handy when i restring my newly acquired 76 Takamine 12 string today once i get it cleaned and set up like i want it. Thank you guys as well. Thats gonna save me some time as well. No more luthiers knots. It will also make removing the old strings easier too. Ive been using the graphite trick for over 40 years, and believe me, it works. I have big hands, use heavier strings, and bend like crazy- And 90% of the time it comes back in tune.
Really like the vid, and great 101 thorough cover of the more reliable standards. I disagree on a couple points, but they're like any other opinion, and likely irrelevant to new players. Stretching to me is essential as I played most of the time on a floyd. I get what's mentioned in the vid but a week is just way to long for resettle. What I do is lift under the string with two fingers at the nut and move down the whole string in a pulsing motion. The pull height is about 2 inches, I then retune and repeat. On a full floating trem system if this isn't done, one can wake up the next morning to a front dipped bridge, untensioned neck, and intonation is shot. Most new players have no idea about ANY of this, and it's certainly less of an issue on an accoustic, but it's a thing. The second thing I want to say is for longevity I believe in equal mass string windings. I measure with finger pinch and try to target 3 winds in tune on the E. The reason I do this is to prevent S-curve on the neck. While string mass is already naturally off and one change has no effect, I have noticed over the years that the little things do contribute. Finally I don't know if I missed it, but didn't see a mention of "never detuning " to reach a note. I'm not saying to not use an alternate tuning, but to always go down then tune up to desired pitch. Ya' know for gearlash prevention. Sorry for the TLDR and I wish the internet was around when I first started. Vids like these would've been invaluable.
Good tips. The only difference for me is when doing the G, B and high E strings, I do the high E, then the B then end with the G. I find it gives me more room to manipulate the strings when doing the luthiers knot and winding. Just personal preference.
I personally take a while when it comes to putting the strings in tune. I tune down a little here and there to stretch the strings out. Depending on the gauge, it can take a couple of days for the strings to settle and stay in tune. Great video. I always find these useful to see how others do it. Your pencil on the knut method intriques me and I will certainly give it a try,
I've been playing for 60 years, and I have 61 guitars at this point. Honestly, there are quite a few i haven't played in years, so I don't bother changing strings on them. But even on my favorites that I play often, I don't change strings very often. Maybe once a year? But of course I've changed strings hundreds of times in my lifetime. But this is still a useful video for me. I have known about using graphite in the nut, but only for tuning problems (like for Gibson Les Paul G strings) but this is a great idea to do it when changing strings. On stretching, I pull the strings while holding down at 12th fret sliding down to the 3rd fret. It's a faster, more efficient method, I find. Great video. Explains everything well, especially for novices.
Have listened to your music and you are a man who is worthy of giving info about the dedication involved in learning and maintaining what you think you know. Peace brother. I will never take all the strings off again. Talk to MARTIN and listen to what they say. They voided my warranty because I admitted that I did that. Peace and good luck.
Teddy, you own your guitar, not Martin, and you paid dearly so I understand your concern. When someone buys a Martin, Taylor, Gibson etc. a very large part of the price is for the name-brand mystique and the presumed likelihood it will have high quality. Usually that's true but trust me, they build turds all the time. If they didn't, they wouldn't need to warrant them all to give people the confidence to gladly fork over a fortune for an object that it only took a fraction of the retail price to build. Relax. Guitars are strong and you will not harm your truss rod protected neck by having all the strings off long enough to do routine maintenance. If you send your guitar back to Martin for repair or adjustment, or to a factory-authorized technician near you, or even to an 'unauthorized' tech/luthier of your choice, I guarantee you they take all the strings off at some point to accomplish their work, and may have it unstrung for what you might think is a long time or too long. The reason Martin voids the warranty if YOU remove all the strings at once is they want ANY excuse to void your warranty so they can charge extra in the future to work on it. If you sell your guitar the warranty doesn't transfer. Ever wonder why? Because if you're the original owner they've already made the premium on that sale and they will make zero profit on subsequent 'downstream' transactions even if the value has gone up and you make or save money. In the end, it's your money so believe what makes you happy. But people who actually work on guitars for a living know there's no harm in taking all the strings off for a while. Also trust me that Martin or anybody has no way to know if you changed one string at a time or did them all at once as Tony and I and almost everybody else does. If this was a problem, all we'd be hearing about is exploding guitars. If you fear voiding your warranty then just don't tell Martin you changed all the strings at once.
Good string change for beginners. I have a little different method which is a combination of your method and Taylor's factory method. The best way is the way you are comfortable doing but I agree with cleaning while the strings are off. Do not try cleaning the headstock with the strings on this could cause sore fingers on your chording hand.
Wow, I sure wish I had these video when I learned how to restring my guitars! The first time I tried took an 1.5 hours and I used a’many expletives. The pencil trick was new to me and I am glad of the approval for the Luthier’s knot (since I use this method as well). Thank you for sharing this and loved hearing about the Guitar Summit. I have a 3 year goal to make it there.
I only started learning how to play guitar a month ago & I'm documenting my journey on here but this is gonna be super helpful when I first change my strings!
Once you've done a few and have a feeling for the tension, a string winding drill bit is a dream come true. No one really needs it, but damn if it isn't wonderful.
Tony, this is Denni M from TAC, I love this video as I do most. However as you state there are so many that will argue as to how to secure the strings on the tuner. But for me yours is the best. Since I joined your community almost 4 years ago this is how I learned and continue to change my strings and never had an issue and I was changing my strings today so this video is a sign to me that I was correct that it was time to change them!
Hi Denni... this is the 2nd reference to "TAC". What does it stand for? ... "tricarboxylic acid cycle"?... "Tucson Aeroservice Center"?... "time activity curve" or what? Curiously awaiting your reply?
Tony has an amazing online guitar program called TAC “Tony’s Acoustic Challenge “ when it began his structure program taught people to play guitar in 30days
I like your uncommon/common sense approach to this. Your experience shows and is obvious. This makes me trust your information. I just subscribed and liked. Looking forward to more. Thank you.
Knowing you're about to undertake this endeavor would be a good time to go ahead and pre-order bone everything. Nut, bridge and pins. Sometimes sold in complete sets. Of course the right sizes for your setup . Put away all those 'spare' plastic parts and save them somewhere i.e. guitar case. Mechanical pencil's lead seems to fit the nut grooves better if your a neat freak like myself. And always always aways, luthier knot......yep even slotted!
I personally think ebony pins and TUSQ saddle are the optimum. Nut in my opinion, can stay plastic. Your fingers are the termination of the strings most of the time anyway. Will sit back and laugh at all the trolls now.
Hi Tony....I do the changing mostly as you described, but the graphite lube as well as the slight ball end bend at the saddle are great to know - Appreciate your great advice!
Very informative. The luthiers knot was good info for me however I've had issues de stringing them. I like the stability they could provide. Good video thanks🤗
Hey Tony, With the internet to help it’s so easy to learn how to do a string change and even a good setup up. One thing I’d add to your breakdown here is purchasing a nice kit to polish the frets ( acoustic or electric ),it really does make a huge difference and especially if you do lots of bends like Blues or Rock. Especially if you have never done one before - the frets will get gritty feeling over time and even on high end guitars as well. Music Nomad kit is very nice and I totally recommend the little disposable ones made by Lizard Spit ( they are easy to find, Sweetwater also carries them. ). PS ~ I dig the daily lessons as a member to Tac 🤟
I found your restringing helpful. Especially the part about protecting the bridge as you pull pins. For quit a while I have been fallowing your old video where you restrung a mahogany guitar. I think you do things a little different now. I feel I will be using this new and improved restringing method. Thanks for your help!!
Thanks Tony, just one addy. I pull my string through the post, then back about two frets. I also start with the D then the G and work outwards, this way I'm not working over the installed strings. I have always used the graphite trick though. Thanks a lot for the good video.
I did that too, cant remember where i learned it at.... I want to say it was mentioned in a piano book i had.. it was the 2nd thing i learned about tuning. 1st thing was the method of 5th fret on 5/6ths of the strings is same tone as the next string played open....
Sometimes the saddle can fall out, it you have a piezo pickup. I had this happen once and I accidently broke the piezo in half during the scramble to find the saddle. That'll make you use some words that aren't family friendly. Sometimes there isn't always a nice flat surface to lay your axe on during a string change. I have restrung them while standing on a guitar stand, laying on my lap while bouncing down the road in a bus, etc.
That hook bend in the string before the bridge pin really helps, I forgot to do this on a bari 12er recently, made it a real pain. Thanks for the reminder.
Great detailed video, lots of goo tips thanks. Knew thing if you bend the string end make sure not to kink it. I don't find it necessary to ben the end at all just seat the end of the string pull it vertically then insert the peg and move the string to a horizontal position. On different guitars though it may be necessary. My string ends seat perfectly without the peg anyway.
Somebody turned me onto Boiled Linseed Oil once. I had left my prized Gibson J-50 home when I was shipped to Okinawa in '67. I watched a fellow change strings that came from the states along with a vial of oil. When I got out of the service, I got a small can of BLO, and have used it every other time I would change strings. Same for mandolin.
Regarding how often to change strings: I lived for 40 years in high humidity environments, and changed every month. Now in the arid Sonoran desert, I am at 3 month intervals, and they still sound pretty darn good… could probably go longer, but force of habit makes 90 days max…
great video but heres a few other options to consider, 1) instead of the pencil just get some Big Bends Nut Sauce, its clear and easy to use. 2) cutting the string close to the post is common but it does leave a sharp edge so when moving your hand quickly to tune you might rub against the sharp end and get a cut, been there done that so another option is to cut it an inch out then fold the string back to itself pointing to the peg hole, do this it at an angle where the is no possible way to catch your fingers. IT WORKS, I also use the luthier knot it works great. 3) String stretching ! I would suggest string stretching for a guitar living at home is different for live touring and playing and for luthiers at shows who are there presenting their guitars. Tonys method for a home guitar is fine but not for the other things i mentioned. you dont get a week for the guitar to strings to sort themselves out. Ive played at many luthier shows for builders and their mini workshops and the hard lesson learned the first few times is that un stretched strings will leave you embarrassed on stage as the strings drift out of tune. You pull out on the string just not like a maniac, I pulled lightly thoughout the entire string then retune and you keep doing this 5-7 times to where the strings doesnt lower in pitch after another stretch. IT WORK and does not hurt the guitar. 4) Home string changes hardly work when touring, you change strings quickly holding the guitar in hand and much easier to change one string at a time this keeps the tension constant and while Tony disagrees theres no real proof either way so it gets down to your own personal confidence of what you feel is right. Does tension change things ? Possibly if you have tuned and electric you will find that as you tune one strings the others change in pitch, it also does that on an acoustic but more subtle so for live playing you changing singles at a time makes more sense. So to the point Tony has done a wonderful video for guitars that live at home but for guitars that travel there are much for efficient and time saving options to consider.
Hi Howard... this is the 2nd reference to "TAC". What does it stand for? ... "tricarboxylic acid cycle"?... "Tucson Aeroservice Center"?... "time activity curve" or what? Curiously awaiting your reply?
I wrap tape around the string winder, so when I use the peg puller part it protects the bridge from damage. I also put some cardboard inside the winder to protect the tuning pegs.
I enjoyed your lesson. I'm a luthier. " hobby luthier" Here's a few things I would like to add. I don't use a string winder to pull up the bridge pins. For the reason you gave, putting little dents in the bridge. Even with a cloth, that does help. I use a heavy guitar pick . I put my hand down in the sound hole and push up on the bottom of the bridge pins with the guitar pick , so it doen't hurt my fingers. The bridge pins should be made of bone not plastic. same with the nut and saddle. Just my prefrence. Also I like to clean the finger board while I have the strings off, and oil it a little bit. The finger board can get kind of dirty. The bridge should have custom made slots, to except each sting size. The slot holds the string , the bride pins just fills the hole. Inside the ball of the string should rest on the bridge patch, or plate, which ever you prefer to call it. So you could pull all the bridge pins, and the strings will stay right in its place. That"s the way I was taught. A short cut for this is to have fluted bridge pins. But that's not right. Other luthiers might disagree with me. The saddle should have no notches for the strings. Each string should sit at the top of the crown of the saddle. I like your pencil trick to lubricate the strings. They do sell guitar grease for that same purpose. One more thing I agree with is all six strings should sit have way in the slot of the nut. if they go deeper over time , you can make some bone dust with sand papper and mix some epoxy to bring the slots back back up, or just replace the nut. Thanks for the video!
It has been my habit to change strings with it sitting on my lap. I also dispense with cutting the strings I am removing. Once the tension is off, I just remove the strings from the tuners, and that gives me the same access to the back of the pegs through the sound hole. I have not used that ball-end bend trick, and I don't feel I have had much of an issue with that, but I will give it a try. I do lube the nut slots with a pencil. Another advantage of this is that if I skip this step, the strings can get hung up a bit while tuning, and when I am close to having it in tune, it will suddenly jump and be well out-of-tune. It can be a fight to get it tuned, and if you think you have it and start playing, it might jump then. It is not a matter of the nut slot width either. The string moves quite freely through a lubricated nut slot. I do use the luthier's knot and have done so for most of my guitar-playing years. The guitar at the summit that really caught my attention was the Preston Thompson Wildlife Series guitar. It has a beautifully inlaid diamonback rattlesnake pattern on the fretboard, with the snake's head coming down the top of the headstock. It was absolutely beautiful.
Thanks, I've played guitar for a long time and have always questioned the best way to change strings(many a discussion with friends on this). Change all at once vs one at a time. How much string to leave, and what knot to put on the tuner, and placing strings in the bridge. Thanks!
Question: I just change my strings, but hadn’t heard of the graphite trick on the nut. Would it be OK to loosen each of the strings enough to slide it out of the slot and take a pencil and put the graphite on, and then re-tune the string? I can’t think of a problem with that.
I’ll usually turn the graphite from the pencil into a powder and mix in a tiny dab of Vaseline to make a really thick paste. It’s fixed all the issues with tuning stability.
I am one of those that stretch the strings when replacing. I usually overtime each string by one fret. And then I leave the instrument alone for a hour. After the hour retune back to normal This helps the guitar to stay in tune longer and it does work Also I use fast fret after playing to clean the strings from sweat it also lengthens strings life and save a buck or two on a 10 spot item is a no blinder
I've been playing 12 string guitars for 50 years. The first time I ever changed strings on my 12 string guitar, it took 5 and a half hours to change and tune. All I had was a tuning fork (A=440) and NO peg winder... now I can do it all in about 15 minutes.
I have a fear of the strings coming out of the tuner pin holes so I have always left an inch loose. Another thing I learnt is that with older accoustic guitars and classical guitars where the tuners are bone pegs inside the head stock, once youve threaded the string through the tuning peg hole, loop the loose end half way round back to the side you threaded it through and thread it through the same hole again. This helps the tuning peg grip the string so it doesnt slip out when youre doing the initial winding.
Don't tell me where to keep my mind! I really have always heard so much about how you tie your strings - and I've never really known. My dad taught me the luther's knot when I was a kid, and I've done it since. I've never noticed any difference.
Tony really woke up and said “hmmm been awhile since I restrung this here fiddle… I know! I’ll restring it on the show today!” I do actually like the fact that you put to bed the myth that you can’t remove all your strings at once. I usually always remove all my strings, except on my 1950 L7. Floating bridges are kind of pain, so if I do the string one at a time the bridge doesn’t shift, and my intonation stays the same. But my guild D25 and takamine I just pop them all off.
Thanks for very thorough with excellent instructional tips. Meanwhile, from 45 mark, the guitar samplings audio recordings seem to have some kind of technical flaw, or maybe it's my phone or my ear. There seems to be a muddiness or some kind of are technical glitch that diminishes the quality at certain tones.
Enjoyed learning about Naome guitars. I thi k its pretty hard to beat a Cedar wood guitar. I also love the Guild jumbo 12 strings. Currently im back on my Washburn 12 string from having played violin during the summer. I was mimmicking Nicola Benedettis salute de amore. I was pleased with myself but back in my mind I knew I missed the 12 string and was in need of changing out my original corses, so I hopped on the 12 string again and lost some bridge pins. Finally the following day I found the pins with my cell phone flash light. I believe i replaced the fine G string a year or so ago and the bridge pin squirted out like a pachinko ball. Thankfully i located all bridge pins and i brought the courses back up to double drop D to lessen the load on the bridge. The strings are probably 5 years old so i really need to change them. Could you do a special on preserving the piezo in the bridge? Ive never plugged her into an acoustic amp so am concerned if i lower the bridge i might damage the piezo. Are silk and steel better for a twelve string as far as comfort? What about gut wrapped silk? Thanks for awsome show.bye
Yep I'm the one lol ...I was always told if you have a Piezo pickup on your acoustic under the bridge you should always leave one string (A or D) to keep the bridge in place so as not to disturb the pickup. I was told disturbing the pickup wire could upset the balance of the pickup. Be interested to know if this is true?
I am so chuffed to see someone else using a pencil in the nut slot, I actually use a mechanical pencil because the led is thinner, but so cool to know I'm not the only one doing it :) I also use the luthier's knot, which was dissed in the last stringing up video I watched, but I've stuck with it as I found it worked for me. Good to see you pointing out not to whip all the strings off on an archtop, so wish I'd seen this a few years ago before I restrung my first ever archtop, apparently my face was a picture when I slacked all the strings off and watched the bridge fall to the floor :) took me ages to correct the intonation after that :)
This may sound like a dig, but it isn't. Genuine question. The luthier's knot works for you, but what does that mean? It technically works for anyone using it, but so does almost every other method. So, what does it mean for you when you say it works for you? Is it a placebo thing? I used it up until I became a luthier and saw how much easier other ways are, as well as more effective and less problematic. There are a thousand ways to do anything, so my way(s) aren't gospel, nor do I think they should be. The luthier's knot is just one of those myths that are mentioned in this video in every other step.
like tommy5241 said: on every archtop I have had, there is a sun fade spot around the bridge. So your right about the bridge falling off, but after a year or two out of the case there will be a "spot" marked on the soundboard. And you can use a wet/dry marker to put dots at each corner that will rub off. Be careful not to rub them off while polishing.
Great video..only wish the camera could of zoomed in for the bridge set up and the strings for the top. An over viewing from above would be really neat. Thank you !!! I detail cars in the warm summer but during winter the freeze hurts far to much. I'm thinking it will be neat to string guitars during freezing temps. Do they have any certification classes on this? I'm sure someone would want business insurance too since many guitars are very pricey. Thank You !!!! Rocky
I love changing strings.....it's a ritual of love ❤️
Excellent tutorial. Bending the ball end and lubricating the nut slots make perfect sense. Thank you for this.
I enjoy the whole process. It's very gratifying, like detailing your car.
I love changing strings. I was taught to treat it as a very personal relationship with my guitar. It is a time to spend tenderly caring for your guitar. I love the process, and I love the final feeling of accomplishment.
Best string change lesson on TH-cam and your best version too!
I've been changing my own strings for nearly 6 decades and wow, thanks for the tips.
I'm 70 and have been playing since 1967 and I've heard so much bullshit about what we should and shouldn't do to our guitars. It's refreshing to hear a young feller debunk so many myths about the art.
Tony: Thanks for the tips on changing guitar strings. I hate to admit this, but I am 75 years old, I've been a guitar player since I was 12, and just retired as a professional musician recently. I was "today old"; when I finally learned how to do a luthier's knot. I'm wondering if you know of Charlie Hoffman guitars? I have a hand made Hoffman that is now about 40 years old and it's a peach. Charlie is a guitar maker from Minneapolis ' maybe you've met him. His son Gabriel runs the shop now. After 40 years when I took my guitar in for maintenance, Gabriel said the neck was a hair shifted and that it was underneath warranty. Talk about standing behind your work. I couldn't believe it! I'll be tuning in to your channel from now on. I have Parkinson's disease and my chops have deteriorated significantly. But I think my playing helps my hand/eye coordination, my hand strength, and keeps my brain limping along. Maybe, no I'm certain I will learn something! But I may be to old to learn anything and too young to know everything. I guess you could say that this also applies to life in general.😂
@@daleobrien7696 cool
Man I’m glad you clarified string stretching. I’ve seen videos where they insist you grab them; I say to myself, “I don’t care if it’s the right thing to do, no way I’m gonna do that.”
yeah ive always just kind of strummed heavily for a minute or so. also do bended notes at the 7th fret.
Evh guitar tech uses this string stretcher. It’s so great. You run it up and down the string s few times. Strings stretched. Perfectly evenly in seconds when
Fun fact: Luthiers hate the "luthier" knot. Seriously. We really hate it. It is an unnecessary step that is irritating to deal with. I've not spoken to another pro luthier that uses it, or even that doesn't strongly dislike it.
I don't think my ways are the "right" way, I wasn't trained that way. That knot is just one of the myths you mentioned in pretty much every other step.
And I gotta say, it makes me so happy to see someone use the pull back method for string length instead of measuring by the tuning posts. I think I've seen one other video on here that does that. It is far more consistent than the tuning posts. I pull back one fret for guitar and two for bass.
This is true.
I'm Catholic, not Lutheran; can I still use it?
@@briankehew579 You can, but it comes with a flock of Hail Mary's.
I hate when the e b or g string go into my finger hitting the bone. That sucks
This is the most comprehensive and accurate guide to string changing I've seen. I have slight differences but this is basically my process. I'll definitely share.
How refreshing to hear you killing the 'only one string at a time' dragon !! I've been playing since the 1960s and I've ALWAYS removed all the strings.
Time after time the paranoid say 'Oh you shouldn't', so thanks again.
Absolutely! The guitar wasn't built with the strings on it, so why shouldn't it survive a few minutes without them? I had one guy go further - he said once the strings are on, NEVER stretch them, put the guitar away and don't touch it for 6 months so they can stretch 'naturally'. The world is full of idiots, and somehow I meet all of them.
@@RobScenityWhen you’ve waited the requisite 6 months and you’re ready to play, it’s time to re-string the guitar again! 😂
I love changing the strings. It’s like the new car smell except for the ears. Bright sound.
I've been playing since I was 12 years old and having been stringing all my life and while I string similarly. the luthier's knot was not in my repertoire. And using the pencil was not on my radar as well. So, after nearly 60 years of doing this I think I can get it right without hassles!! Thank you Tony. I so appreciate this segment!!!
you've got to be kidding - you don't realize you could sound better ? talk about myopic - and Jimmy Page fans thinks he's better than Clapton - cause it's all they listen to
Thank you, your video was most helpful. I learned three very important tips that will make me chore easier and preserve my guitar. Wayne from Valrico
40 yrs. Playing acoustics here and used the luthier knot for a few years….never found it to be useful, three (3) winds and my Taylor, Martin and Collings are good till string change happens
@@vaughnmaurt5013 I used it until I became a luthier. The only thing it does is increase the chance of scratching up the headstock and/or tuning posts trying to remove it, especially on guitars that have not been restrung in a few years.
Pro guitar techs and most luthiers hate that knot technique, it's very unnecessary and pulling back to the first fret is all you need to gauge correct number of wraps. This is not coming from me but multiple techs/luthiers from different channels on TH-cam, shops, and conventions who have been repairing and playing professionally longer than I've been alive. I have no idea who this creator is nor have I ever watched his content as it had just popped up in my recommendations. So in no way am I discrediting him or his background as I literally don't even know who he is. All I am saying is from the information I've gathered over the years this is considered an "incorrect" and "annoying" method by most working professionals. Peace
Alright, i subscribed.
You got me with the 'slight bend at the ball end' thing.
Ive experienced the SLAM, when the ball suddenly hits the bridge plate. Sometimes on stage, and its pretty violent...the guitar goes out of tune, and ive had guitars that needed a new bridge plate as a result.
You taught an old dog a new trick.
Thank you, sir.
I would also like to thank the fellas here in the comments,
Who just taught me to leave out the 'Luthiers knot' thing.
Which is gonna come in handy when i restring my newly acquired 76 Takamine 12 string today once i get it cleaned and set up like i want it.
Thank you guys as well.
Thats gonna save me some time as well.
No more luthiers knots.
It will also make removing the old strings easier too.
Ive been using the graphite trick for over 40 years, and believe me, it works.
I have big hands, use heavier strings, and bend like crazy-
And 90% of the time it comes back in tune.
Really like the vid, and great 101 thorough cover of the more reliable standards.
I disagree on a couple points, but they're like any other opinion, and likely irrelevant to new players.
Stretching to me is essential as I played most of the time on a floyd. I get what's mentioned in the vid but a week is just way to long for resettle.
What I do is lift under the string with two fingers at the nut and move down the whole string in a pulsing motion. The pull height is about 2 inches, I then retune and repeat.
On a full floating trem system if this isn't done, one can wake up the next morning to a front dipped bridge, untensioned neck, and intonation is shot.
Most new players have no idea about ANY of this, and it's certainly less of an issue on an accoustic, but it's a thing.
The second thing I want to say is for longevity I believe in equal mass string windings. I measure with finger pinch and try to target 3 winds in tune on the E.
The reason I do this is to prevent S-curve on the neck. While string mass is already naturally off and one change has no effect, I have noticed over the years that the little things do contribute.
Finally I don't know if I missed it, but didn't see a mention of "never detuning " to reach a note. I'm not saying to not use an alternate tuning, but to always go down then tune up to desired pitch. Ya' know for gearlash prevention.
Sorry for the TLDR and I wish the internet was around when I first started. Vids like these would've been invaluable.
I HATE changing strings. I put it off like i put off the dentist. Now i have shitty old strings and no teef.
Man I love your style of talking and your tempo and info and logic and great straight forwardness.
Well done! Love the luthiers knot and the ball end bend tips.
Good tips. The only difference for me is when doing the G, B and high E strings, I do the high E, then the B then end with the G. I find it gives me more room to manipulate the strings when doing the luthiers knot and winding. Just personal preference.
Yup
I personally take a while when it comes to putting the strings in tune. I tune down a little here and there to stretch the strings out. Depending on the gauge, it can take a couple of days for the strings to settle and stay in tune. Great video. I always find these useful to see how others do it. Your pencil on the knut method intriques me and I will certainly give it a try,
I've been playing for 60 years, and I have 61 guitars at this point. Honestly, there are quite a few i haven't played in years, so I don't bother changing strings on them. But even on my favorites that I play often, I don't change strings very often. Maybe once a year? But of course I've changed strings hundreds of times in my lifetime. But this is still a useful video for me. I have known about using graphite in the nut, but only for tuning problems (like for Gibson Les Paul G strings) but this is a great idea to do it when changing strings.
On stretching, I pull the strings while holding down at 12th fret sliding down to the 3rd fret. It's a faster, more efficient method, I find.
Great video. Explains everything well, especially for novices.
Have listened to your music and you are a man who is worthy of giving info about the dedication involved in learning and maintaining what you think you know. Peace brother. I will never take all the strings off again. Talk to MARTIN and listen to what they say. They voided my warranty because I admitted that I did that. Peace and good luck.
Teddy, you own your guitar, not Martin, and you paid dearly so I understand your concern. When someone buys a Martin, Taylor, Gibson etc. a very large part of the price is for the name-brand mystique and the presumed likelihood it will have high quality. Usually that's true but trust me, they build turds all the time. If they didn't, they wouldn't need to warrant them all to give people the confidence to gladly fork over a fortune for an object that it only took a fraction of the retail price to build. Relax. Guitars are strong and you will not harm your truss rod protected neck by having all the strings off long enough to do routine maintenance. If you send your guitar back to Martin for repair or adjustment, or to a factory-authorized technician near you, or even to an 'unauthorized' tech/luthier of your choice, I guarantee you they take all the strings off at some point to accomplish their work, and may have it unstrung for what you might think is a long time or too long. The reason Martin voids the warranty if YOU remove all the strings at once is they want ANY excuse to void your warranty so they can charge extra in the future to work on it. If you sell your guitar the warranty doesn't transfer. Ever wonder why? Because if you're the original owner they've already made the premium on that sale and they will make zero profit on subsequent 'downstream' transactions even if the value has gone up and you make or save money. In the end, it's your money so believe what makes you happy. But people who actually work on guitars for a living know there's no harm in taking all the strings off for a while. Also trust me that Martin or anybody has no way to know if you changed one string at a time or did them all at once as Tony and I and almost everybody else does. If this was a problem, all we'd be hearing about is exploding guitars. If you fear voiding your warranty then just don't tell Martin you changed all the strings at once.
Good string change for beginners. I have a little different method which is a combination of your method and Taylor's factory method. The best way is the way you are comfortable doing but I agree with cleaning while the strings are off. Do not try cleaning the headstock with the strings on this could cause sore fingers on your chording hand.
Thanks so much for all this.I learned how to put the strings in order and liked the Luther's knot, I have dyslexia, so this helped.
Ive seen the string end first go under on the first turn and go upper side on the rest on the turns and it seems very good to me
The higher they go "up" the shaft the more leverage pressure it applies to the winder.
Wow, I sure wish I had these video when I learned how to restring my guitars! The first time I tried took an 1.5 hours and I used a’many expletives. The pencil trick was new to me and I am glad of the approval for the Luthier’s knot (since I use this method as well). Thank you for sharing this and loved hearing about the Guitar Summit. I have a 3 year goal to make it there.
I only started learning how to play guitar a month ago & I'm documenting my journey on here but this is gonna be super helpful when I first change my strings!
Once you've done a few and have a feeling for the tension, a string winding drill bit is a dream come true. No one really needs it, but damn if it isn't wonderful.
@@bufferkiller Nice tip... I'll look into this string winding drill bit... anything that can make life a little easier is good in my book haha!
@@NewLifeWithGuitar D’Addario has a winder that has a detachable drill bit. Tried linking it on Amazon and the post immediately deleted.
@@bufferkiller Awesome no problem I'll check it out... appreciate that, thanks so much! Will be a great help I'm sure.
Tony, this is Denni M from TAC, I love this video as I do most. However as you state there are so many that will argue as to how to secure the strings on the tuner. But for me yours is the best. Since I joined your community almost 4 years ago this is how I learned and continue to change my strings and never had an issue and I was changing my strings today so this video is a sign to me that I was correct that it was time to change them!
Hi Denni... this is the 2nd reference to "TAC". What does it stand for? ... "tricarboxylic acid cycle"?... "Tucson Aeroservice Center"?... "time activity curve" or what? Curiously awaiting your reply?
Tony has an amazing online guitar program called TAC “Tony’s Acoustic Challenge “ when it began his structure program taught people to play guitar in 30days
I like your uncommon/common sense approach to this. Your experience shows and is obvious. This makes me trust your information. I just subscribed and liked. Looking forward to more. Thank you.
I agree with you on the smell of the Gibson guitar spray. I love that stuff!
Knowing you're about to undertake this endeavor would be a good time to go ahead and pre-order bone everything. Nut, bridge and pins. Sometimes sold in complete sets. Of course the right sizes for your setup . Put away all those 'spare' plastic parts and save them somewhere i.e. guitar case. Mechanical pencil's lead seems to fit the nut grooves better if your a neat freak like myself. And always always aways, luthier knot......yep even slotted!
I personally think ebony pins and TUSQ saddle are the optimum. Nut in my opinion, can stay plastic. Your fingers are the termination of the strings most of the time anyway. Will sit back and laugh at all the trolls now.
Hi Tony....I do the changing mostly as you described, but the graphite lube as well as the slight ball end bend at the saddle are great to know - Appreciate your great advice!
That was new to me as well.
The slight bend.
Very informative. The luthiers knot was good info for me however I've had issues de stringing them. I like the stability they could provide. Good video thanks🤗
Excellent very helpfull, I personally like changing strings.🇬🇧
Re the string replacement / tuning process…thanks Tony. I’ll remember this video and, no doubt, will be coming back to it.
Hey Tony,
With the internet to help it’s so easy to learn how to do a string change and even a good setup up. One thing I’d add to your breakdown here is purchasing a nice kit to polish the frets ( acoustic or electric ),it really does make a huge difference and especially if you do lots of bends like Blues or Rock. Especially if you have never done one before - the frets will get gritty feeling over time and even on high end guitars as well. Music Nomad kit is very nice and I totally recommend the little disposable ones made by Lizard Spit ( they are easy to find, Sweetwater also carries them. ).
PS ~ I dig the daily lessons as a member to Tac 🤟
Thanks for a very clear visual of Luther's knot, among other insights.
I love changing strings. Nothing like a fresh set of guitar strings
Thank ypu. every time im changing my string im watching U. 5× already thanks. Frm Phillippiines 32:28
I found your restringing helpful. Especially the part about protecting the bridge as you pull pins. For quit a while I have been fallowing your old video where you restrung a mahogany guitar. I think you do things a little different now. I feel I will be using this new and improved restringing method. Thanks for your help!!
Enjoyed the video and tips, would love to see the same type of string changing video on a slotted head stock guitar.
I've been playing for 20 years and watched this entire video, subscribed
Thank you Tony very well explained and very much appreciated. great video as always
Thanks Tony, just one addy. I pull my string through the post, then back about two frets. I also start with the D then the G and work outwards, this way I'm not working over the installed strings. I have always used the graphite trick though. Thanks a lot for the good video.
Some are self taught like myself so to me this video was priceless as it is. Thanks man,owe you one. :)
Very much appreciated the details on string changes.
Great content have been using the pencil but not the luthier knot I will use both methods do to your great content . Love all your content .
Back in the archaic days of landlines, I used the telephone to tune. The dial tone is an A.
never knew that. thats pretty cool.
I did that too, cant remember where i learned it at.... I want to say it was mentioned in a piano book i had.. it was the 2nd thing i learned about tuning. 1st thing was the method of 5th fret on 5/6ths of the strings is same tone as the next string played open....
Every dialtone I ever heard was an F.
Great video. Very informative. Thanks.
Sometimes the saddle can fall out, it you have a piezo pickup.
I had this happen once and I accidently broke the piezo in half during the scramble to find the saddle. That'll make you use some words that aren't family friendly.
Sometimes there isn't always a nice flat surface to lay your axe on during a string change. I have restrung them while standing on a guitar stand, laying on my lap while bouncing down the road in a bus, etc.
I was told that the piezo pick up will go out of whack if all are removed at once. I don’t plan on plugging in, so I took them off all at once.
That hook bend in the string before the bridge pin really helps, I forgot to do this on a bari 12er recently, made it a real pain. Thanks for the reminder.
Great detailed video, lots of goo tips thanks. Knew thing if you bend the string end make sure not to kink it. I don't find it necessary to ben the end at all just seat the end of the string pull it vertically then insert the peg and move the string to a horizontal position. On different guitars though it may be necessary. My string ends seat perfectly without the peg anyway.
I watched the whole guitar build , it was awesome , a wealth of knowlege
Somebody turned me onto Boiled Linseed Oil once. I had left my prized Gibson J-50 home when I was shipped to Okinawa in '67. I watched a fellow change strings that came from the states along with a vial of oil. When I got out of the service, I got a small can of BLO, and have used it every other time I would change strings. Same for mandolin.
I was in Okinawa from 68 to 70. Stationed at Fort Buckner near Futenma. I worked in the main warehousing office.
Yeah, love the smell of Gibson spray polish! Polishes nicely too.
Regarding how often to change strings: I lived for 40 years in high humidity environments, and changed every month. Now in the arid Sonoran desert, I am at 3 month intervals, and they still sound pretty darn good… could probably go longer, but force of habit makes 90 days max…
Thanks for the luthier knot tip. It helped!
great video but heres a few other options to consider, 1) instead of the pencil just get some Big Bends Nut Sauce, its clear and easy to use. 2) cutting the string close to the post is common but it does leave a sharp edge so when moving your hand quickly to tune you might rub against the sharp end and get a cut, been there done that so another option is to cut it an inch out then fold the string back to itself pointing to the peg hole, do this it at an angle where the is no possible way to catch your fingers. IT WORKS, I also use the luthier knot it works great. 3) String stretching ! I would suggest string stretching for a guitar living at home is different for live touring and playing and for luthiers at shows who are there presenting their guitars. Tonys method for a home guitar is fine but not for the other things i mentioned. you dont get a week for the guitar to strings to sort themselves out. Ive played at many luthier shows for builders and their mini workshops and the hard lesson learned the first few times is that un stretched strings will leave you embarrassed on stage as the strings drift out of tune. You pull out on the string just not like a maniac, I pulled lightly thoughout the entire string then retune and you keep doing this 5-7 times to where the strings doesnt lower in pitch after another stretch. IT WORK and does not hurt the guitar. 4) Home string changes hardly work when touring, you change strings quickly holding the guitar in hand and much easier to change one string at a time this keeps the tension constant and while Tony disagrees theres no real proof either way so it gets down to your own personal confidence of what you feel is right. Does tension change things ? Possibly if you have tuned and electric you will find that as you tune one strings the others change in pitch, it also does that on an acoustic but more subtle so for live playing you changing singles at a time makes more sense. So to the point Tony has done a wonderful video for guitars that live at home but for guitars that travel there are much for efficient and time saving options to consider.
Best tutorial on changing strings.
Good solid advice! The little details help. Thanks!
I got a small chargeable Black and Decker drill and string winder attachment. It makes it easier big time
Thanks for video
Most excellent tony, the string stretching and pencil method were excellent. Great job, we a TAC appreciate your knowledge.
Hi Howard... this is the 2nd reference to "TAC". What does it stand for? ... "tricarboxylic acid cycle"?... "Tucson Aeroservice Center"?... "time activity curve" or what? Curiously awaiting your reply?
I wrap tape around the string winder, so when I use the peg puller part it protects the bridge from damage. I also put some cardboard inside the winder to protect the tuning pegs.
I enjoyed your lesson. I'm a luthier. " hobby luthier" Here's a few things I would like to add. I don't use a string winder to pull up the bridge pins. For the reason you gave, putting little dents in the bridge. Even with a cloth, that does help. I use a heavy guitar pick . I put my hand down in the sound hole and push up on the bottom of the bridge pins with the guitar pick , so it doen't hurt my fingers. The bridge pins should be made of bone not plastic. same with the nut and saddle. Just my prefrence. Also I like to clean the finger board while I have the strings off, and oil it a little bit. The finger board can get kind of dirty. The bridge should have custom made slots, to except each sting size. The slot holds the string , the bride pins just fills the hole. Inside the ball of the string should rest on the bridge patch, or plate, which ever you prefer to call it. So you could pull all the bridge pins, and the strings will stay right in its place. That"s the way I was taught. A short cut for this is to have fluted bridge pins. But that's not right. Other luthiers might disagree with me. The saddle should have no notches for the strings. Each string should sit at the top of the crown of the saddle.
I like your pencil trick to lubricate the strings. They do sell guitar grease for that same purpose. One more thing I agree with is all six strings should sit have way in the slot of the nut. if they go deeper over time , you can make some bone dust with sand papper and mix some epoxy to bring the slots back back up, or just replace the nut. Thanks for the video!
Hey bud first time ive seen your channel- love it! The ambiance was like hanging out with a fellow guitar friend keep on strumming. Peace
It has been my habit to change strings with it sitting on my lap. I also dispense with cutting the strings I am removing. Once the tension is off, I just remove the strings from the tuners, and that gives me the same access to the back of the pegs through the sound hole. I have not used that ball-end bend trick, and I don't feel I have had much of an issue with that, but I will give it a try.
I do lube the nut slots with a pencil. Another advantage of this is that if I skip this step, the strings can get hung up a bit while tuning, and when I am close to having it in tune, it will suddenly jump and be well out-of-tune. It can be a fight to get it tuned, and if you think you have it and start playing, it might jump then. It is not a matter of the nut slot width either. The string moves quite freely through a lubricated nut slot.
I do use the luthier's knot and have done so for most of my guitar-playing years.
The guitar at the summit that really caught my attention was the Preston Thompson Wildlife Series guitar. It has a beautifully inlaid diamonback rattlesnake pattern on the fretboard, with the snake's head coming down the top of the headstock. It was absolutely beautiful.
I LOVE string-change day :)
Me too. I always bring wine?
Enjoyed the lesson on restringing the guitar👍👍👍🎸🎸🎸🎸
Thanks, I've played guitar for a long time and have always questioned the best way to change strings(many a discussion with friends on this). Change all at once vs one at a time. How much string to leave, and what knot to put on the tuner, and placing strings in the bridge. Thanks!
To prevent from overwinding, I pull the string tight before I start, and pull back the distance of 1 fret, then wind it and it’s prefect every time
Question: I just change my strings, but hadn’t heard of the graphite trick on the nut.
Would it be OK to loosen each of the strings enough to slide it out of the slot and take a pencil and put the graphite on, and then re-tune the string?
I can’t think of a problem with that.
I’ll usually turn the graphite from the pencil into a powder and mix in a tiny dab of Vaseline to make a really thick paste. It’s fixed all the issues with tuning stability.
I am one of those that stretch the strings when replacing.
I usually overtime each string by one fret.
And then I leave the instrument alone for a hour.
After the hour retune back to normal
This helps the guitar to stay in tune longer and it does work
Also I use fast fret after playing to clean the strings from sweat it also lengthens strings life and save a buck or two on a 10 spot item is a no blinder
Thanks- helpful, expert guidance!
Go hawks! Love your work and video, love the Hawks jerseys!
I found myself using 8/20's on my j45and Phosphor Bronze on by Guild D40 And Taki. Just seemed to work better. Now I know why. Thanks
I've been playing 12 string guitars for 50 years. The first time I ever changed strings on my 12 string guitar, it took 5 and a half hours to change and tune. All I had was a tuning fork (A=440) and NO peg winder... now I can do it all in about 15 minutes.
I have a fear of the strings coming out of the tuner pin holes so I have always left an inch loose. Another thing I learnt is that with older accoustic guitars and classical guitars where the tuners are bone pegs inside the head stock, once youve threaded the string through the tuning peg hole, loop the loose end half way round back to the side you threaded it through and thread it through the same hole again. This helps the tuning peg grip the string so it doesnt slip out when youre doing the initial winding.
Great info. Thanks much!
Thanks for a great informative video
Best string change video out there
I love it! Thank you! Go Wild!
Don't tell me where to keep my mind!
I really have always heard so much about how you tie your strings - and I've never really known. My dad taught me the luther's knot when I was a kid, and I've done it since. I've never noticed any difference.
Very Helpful. Thanks.
Tony really woke up and said “hmmm been awhile since I restrung this here fiddle… I know! I’ll restring it on the show today!” I do actually like the fact that you put to bed the myth that you can’t remove all your strings at once. I usually always remove all my strings, except on my 1950 L7. Floating bridges are kind of pain, so if I do the string one at a time the bridge doesn’t shift, and my intonation stays the same. But my guild D25 and takamine I just pop them all off.
Great video. This is long-winded, but a lot of information.
Thanks for very thorough with excellent instructional tips. Meanwhile, from 45 mark, the guitar samplings audio recordings seem to have some kind of technical flaw, or maybe it's my phone or my ear. There seems to be a muddiness or some kind of are technical glitch that diminishes the quality at certain tones.
Great video! Thank you.
Great video!😎👍🎼
Dig your show Tony , watching from Australia . Peace ✌
Telegram scam , ya my main man .......
thank you so much
Enjoyed learning about Naome guitars. I thi k its pretty hard to beat a Cedar wood guitar. I also love the Guild jumbo 12 strings. Currently im back on my Washburn 12 string from having played violin during the summer. I was mimmicking Nicola Benedettis salute de amore. I was pleased with myself but back in my mind I knew I missed the 12 string and was in need of changing out my original corses, so I hopped on the 12 string again and lost some bridge pins. Finally the following day I found the pins with my cell phone flash light. I believe i replaced the fine G string a year or so ago and the bridge pin squirted out like a pachinko ball. Thankfully i located all bridge pins and i brought the courses back up to double drop D to lessen the load on the bridge. The strings are probably 5 years old so i really need to change them. Could you do a special on preserving the piezo in the bridge? Ive never plugged her into an acoustic amp so am concerned if i lower the bridge i might damage the piezo. Are silk and steel better for a twelve string as far as comfort? What about gut wrapped silk? Thanks for awsome show.bye
TY TY I just changed my first strings,,,including the LUF..KNOT ty!
Hi Tony, love the video, would like to ask if you still recommend the "over under" method for restringing guitar?
This is super valuable, thank you :)
Good video Tony Polecastro!!
Yep I'm the one lol ...I was always told if you have a Piezo pickup on your acoustic under the bridge you should always leave one string (A or D) to keep the bridge in place so as not to disturb the pickup. I was told disturbing the pickup wire could upset the balance of the pickup. Be interested to know if this is true?
I am so chuffed to see someone else using a pencil in the nut slot, I actually use a mechanical pencil because the led is thinner, but so cool to know I'm not the only one doing it :) I also use the luthier's knot, which was dissed in the last stringing up video I watched, but I've stuck with it as I found it worked for me. Good to see you pointing out not to whip all the strings off on an archtop, so wish I'd seen this a few years ago before I restrung my first ever archtop, apparently my face was a picture when I slacked all the strings off and watched the bridge fall to the floor :) took me ages to correct the intonation after that :)
This may sound like a dig, but it isn't. Genuine question. The luthier's knot works for you, but what does that mean? It technically works for anyone using it, but so does almost every other method. So, what does it mean for you when you say it works for you? Is it a placebo thing? I used it up until I became a luthier and saw how much easier other ways are, as well as more effective and less problematic.
There are a thousand ways to do anything, so my way(s) aren't gospel, nor do I think they should be. The luthier's knot is just one of those myths that are mentioned in this video in every other step.
like tommy5241 said: on every archtop I have had, there is a sun fade spot around the bridge. So your right about the bridge falling off, but after a year or two out of the case there will be a "spot" marked on the soundboard. And you can use a wet/dry marker to put dots at each corner that will rub off. Be careful not to rub them off while polishing.
Great video..only wish the camera could of zoomed in for the bridge set up and the strings for the top. An over viewing from above would be really neat. Thank you !!! I detail cars in the warm summer but during winter the freeze hurts far to much. I'm thinking it will be neat to string guitars during freezing temps. Do they have any certification classes on this? I'm sure someone would want business insurance too since many guitars are very pricey. Thank You !!!! Rocky